Part 11

After an early breakfast, we were supplied with a negro guide by Major Silveira, and travelling through a region that was almost entirely campo, we proceeded twelve miles to the residence of Senor Major José Maria Gavião, at São José.

In his absence, we were kindly received by his family; and upon his arrival, we had the strongest demonstration of his generous hospitality. He not only treated us with the best he had to eat and drink, but supplied us with fine horses to ride over his plantation.

He has only established himself here a few years, and yet his arrangements are very complete. He has a large tract of land lying remarkably well for cultivation, and very fair soil, though not of the best quality. It is free from frost, and thought to be well suited for coffee culture. He has one hundred and twenty thousand coffee plants of different ages already planted, and is ready to extend the number when he has rains to favor transplanting.

He has a good saw-mill, with perpendicular saw, which works very satisfactorily. He has also a grist-mill that makes beautiful corn-meal; and really it is refreshing to see the meal instead of farina, which is the substitute in most of the parts of the country for bread.

We availed ourselves of the fine bathing facilities at the mill to refresh our persons, and put on clean clothes. The Major sent down large towels for us, and provided likewise a bottle of Cognac, for us to take a little after concluding the bath, to prevent any bad effects of the cold water. Bathing in this climate is not only very grateful to our bodies but it is regarded essential to health and comfort.

I here had an opportunity of enjoying for the first time a feast of that delicious fruit, the jaboticaba. It is a large, dark purple fruit, resembling very much the appearance and taste of the finest specimens of muscodine, but the average size is somewhat larger than the largest muscodine, and the juice is even sweeter and more delicate than that of the muscodine. It is regarded entirely free from danger, when the juice alone is eaten, and many swallow the pulp also without experiencing any inconvenience. This fruit is an anomaly in its location upon the body of the trees, or upon the larger limbs, by a very short, delicate attachment, and is not found upon the twigs or ends of the branches as other fruits. The tree producing it is a tall, smooth, light-yellow colored forest growth; and in riding out to the woods, a negro ascended one of them and gathered a quantity of the fruit. It grows also when transplanted, and makes a beautiful shade-tree for a yard, while bearing the choicest fruit.

I ate at the house, likewise, the cassia, which is a fruit produced in the campos, and has a very pleasant acidulous taste, that is found very good when used as a lemonade with water. This fruit has the peculiarity of producing the seed at the lower end, exterior to the investment. Though found upon a small shrub in the campo, it is grown under cultivation upon a large tree, and of much larger size and finer flavor.

We were shown here a small hand-roller cotton-cleaner, which is the only reliance thus far for a gin. A small spinning jinney of the old pattern is also used; and the mortar and pestle are employed for beating big hominy.

FRIDAY, _October 20, 1865_.

We rode out this morning before breakfast to the location of a small colony of Brazilians, employed by Major Gavião in cultivating his lands. Most of them own some slaves, and they are also employed upon the place. As the sole object in these arrangements seems to be for the coffee culture, the contract with the proprietor leaves them free to cultivate the intervening ground for themselves, and the consequence is, that their cribs are full of corn, while the proprietor has to buy his supply from the country around. They have hogs, also, in fine order, and every thing about their little settlement looks to be in a thriving state. In addition to this, the laborer is paid five cents per year for each coffee plant that he sets out and gets to growing, thus having a good cash income, independent of the supply of provisions. This principle works well for the contractor, but is certainly not favorable for the landowner, as he certainly should avail himself of some part, at least, of the productions of the land, during the period it is occupied by the contractor or colonist, as he is, in this instance.

I observed at the house of Major Gavião a negro man with an indolent ulcer of the hand, which he was treating with acid nitrate of mercury, in the absence of any physician. I thought this quite heroic domestic practice, yet it was evidently a proper application, and I indorsed his treatment.

The negroes here, as at other places, were observed to labor in ditching without their shirts; and though this strikes one strangely upon first seeing it, the negro evidently consults his own comfort, as the shirt is usually tied round the waist. So far as I have had an opportunity of examining the clothing of negroes, the men wear a substantial shirt and pants of coarse cotton, and it is rare that one has been seen with ragged clothes. The women usually wear lighter material, and it is not uncommon to see a female servant about a house with an old calico dress, which has doubtless been cast aside by the white women of the family.

I was particularly impressed here with the freedom which was allowed some negro children in coming into the room occupied by the family, and with the attention given them by the Major.

Having no children of his own, he seems to make pets of these little darkies. He has likewise a number of huge dogs, which are very fond of lying about the house, and he tolerates them at times, but at others makes a clearing out of every thing, and closes an open-work door, which serves as a barrier to their entrance.

After a late breakfast, the dashing Major accompanied us a short distance, and left us with a guide to show us the route to the fazenda of Senor Dom Rafael Aguiar Paes de Barros.

He and his fine-looking wife received us most courteously and treated us very kindly. Upon being informed that I wished to look at any lands in the neighborhood which might be for sale, the Dom supplied us with horses, and rode with us to see some lands near his place. The soil appeared to be of superior quality, and the surface was remarkably smooth and level for this country, but there is not such a supply of springs as would be desirable for the use of families, and the only stream available for machinery is of small capacity.

The lands are bounded upon one side by the Rio Jacaré, the margins of which are said to be very liable to chill and fever, and have not been cleared up for cultivation. There is not sufficient fall in any part of this stream adjacent to the land for establishing any kind of machinery.

There is, however, an immense salto or water-fall upon the river Chimbarro, which runs near one end of the territory, but belongs to another party, who manifests no wish to sell. This water-power might be used for machinery of any magnitude, and the location would be a good one for a cotton factory, to work up the crude material of the country, and sell the proceeds to the people within adjoining districts.

The following are the tracts of land in the market:

João Baptista Lacenda 6,000 acres. José Rodriguez 1,500 acres. Donna Maria (Mai de Major Joaquim Roberto) 1,200 acres. The first can be bought for about $5,000. The second can be bought for about $3,000. The last can be bought for about $2,500.

These lands lie in juxtaposition to each other, so that they would together form a fine large plantation, and one good settlement, or perhaps more could be secured. The average of the whole makes the price one dollar and twenty cents per acre, and I have seen no body of land presenting such favorable conditions for a fazenda, though not adapted to a number of small settlements.

This territory lies eight miles south of Araraquara, and a considerable proportion of the two last-named tracts have been at one time cleared and under cultivation. But it is evident that it was not materially impaired, and it is again covered with a growth of taquara (a species of cane) and small trees of various kinds, which would be much more readily cleared off than the original forest.

This land is said to have been planted seven years ago in corn and beans, for the purpose of fattening hogs to be driven to market; but this trade being no longer profitable, it was abandoned, and the land allowed to grow up as stated.

The altitude of this region renders it very pleasant for a residence, and yet its exemption from frost enables the coffee to be cultivated successfully.

Dom Barros has already a portion of land adjoining these lands planted in coffee, which looks to be thriving well, though not old enough to bear fruit. I saw upon his place corn-stalks, that indicated its adaptation to this important crop, and pumpkins of good size were also seen in the field amongst the corn. He cultivates the sugar-cane very successfully, and has a large mill, in which he is constantly working it, with a firm yield of sugar and rum. The molasses is very little made anywhere I have been, and yet when produced is of the very finest quality. It is not used as we use it, in connection with the substantials of a meal, but is confined to use with the dessert, and is a most delicious syrup.

If the water-power upon the Chimbarro can be secured, in connection with these lands, it then becomes a very desirable investment, and as Dom Barros brings the water for his machinery from this stream, through a race two miles long, it may be that a privilege could be had from the owner, though he may not sell the land.

After an excellent dinner, at which Senorha presided, much after the style of our southern ladies, we were supplied with a guide by Dom Barros, and came to the villa of Araraquara. Having a letter to Senor Manuel Francisco de Oliveira, we were kindly received and well provided for at his house. I was informed that a letter had been addressed to me by the municipal authorities of this place, inviting me to visit the district, and that the people throughout the country were very desirous that we should select a location amongst them. Several gentlemen called upon us, and among them the municipal Judge, to whom I had a letter of introduction—Senor Dom Andre Dias de Aguiar. This gentleman impressed me very favorably by his courteous manner and his intelligent expression of countenance, while he manifested quite an interest in the objects of my visit, and my personal gratification.

The villa of Araraquara is located upon a plateau, which affords ample scope for extension of the town; and there is a clear bold brook running on one side of it, which affords fine water for domestic purposes and for the use of all kinds of stock. The streets are laid off at right angles, with a church and an open space in front of it in the centre of the population. I observed that there was a jail opposite the church, and yet I was informed that it was not much in demand for criminals. The style of architecture is similar to the mud-built houses seen elsewhere, being nearly all of a single story, and consequently spread over a large area, when any considerable house-room is secured. The drinking water here is superior, and the climate very pleasant.

SATURDAY, _October 21, 1865_.

Senor Candido Mariano Barba, the government agent at this place, called upon us early this morning, and manifested a desire to aid me in any way it might be practicable.[18]

It being arranged that we should go out to the fazenda of Senor Lenente Coronel Joaquim Lorenço Correa, several of the gentlemen of the villa rode out with us. Meeting the proprietor on the way, he joined us and conducted us to his extensive and well-arranged establishment, known as São Lorenço. On the way, we passed a beautiful cascade of several hundred feet in height, and then another near his place, which is also a fall of great elevation, but not containing so much water as the former. The lands adjacent to these water-falls are comparatively level, but drop down suddenly in a gorge, whose banks are precipitous for a considerable distance, as the stream descends. I observed this same thing on the premises of Dom Barros, and it is rather a striking peculiarity of the country.

The fazenda of Senor Joaquim is four miles from the villa, and passing in part through red campo land, the forest is entered within a mile of the residence, and the soil here is of superior quality. The best sugar-cane yet seen was observed on the roadside as we approached the residence, and I learned from the owner that it had been growing several years from the original roots. He finds that the cane produces here, satisfactorily, six years; and after that time it is customary to plant the ground anew.

This establishment belongs to the first class of the country, and the dwelling is located upon a gentle slope, with a paved terrace, elevated to correspond to the level of the house. The residence is very commodious, with a basement story, which adds greatly to convenience, and the general reception room is supplied with sofas and chairs, having cane seats, and of very neat workmanship. The usual plan of having the sleeping apartment opening into the parlor is found here also, and there is no ventilation excepting by this door. The outbuildings are well-arranged and of the most substantial construction, and the yard immediately around the house is inclosed with a fence, while outside of this there extends for half a mile on one side a most luxuriant grass-pasture.

At a short distance from the dwelling stands a grist-mill, saw-mill and sugar-mill, moved by water, which is brought in a race from an adjacent stream. The sugar-house is supplied with metallic cylinders to express the juice of the cane, and the quantity extracted gives a favorable idea of the richness of the growth of cane, while the syrup indicates by its taste a large proportion of saccharine matter. He has three large boilers of sheet copper placed in a furnace that is neat and substantial, while it works most efficiently. There are small troughs connecting these boilers with the large receiving-troughs, in which the syrup stands to crystallize, and the process of transforming the syrup is thus attended with little difficulty. After the sugar has formed, it is then placed in other receivers with perforations in the bottom, so that it drips and becomes dry.

The sugar is then submitted to a process of clarifying by covering it with a compost of clay and cow-dung, which seems to act favorably in rendering the superficial layers of sugar very fair, and indeed almost white. This is entirely new to me, and yet may have been resorted to in the sugarmaking regions of the United States without coming to my knowledge.

The drippings from the sugar are converted into rum, which is known here by the name of aqua-ardente, or cachaça, and this branch of the business is quite profitable, as a market is found in the country near at hand.

The sale, however, of most of the sugar made at this establishment, is readily effected in this and the adjoining districts, at the prices of Rio with addition of transportation; so that, though laboring under the apparent disadvantage of remoteness from any established market, there is really a very decided benefit in this location. He gets a higher price at his sugar-house than the manufacturers who ship to Rio or Santos can possibly get at those points, as his consumers must pay for the transportation on pack-mules, if they should go there to purchase. Moreover, I am strongly impressed with the conviction that the cane and the appliances used in this establishment, with the high-toned character of the proprietor, will furnish inducements to buyers that may not be found elsewhere. He produces annually for the market between eighty and ninety thousand pounds of sugar, for which he gets an average of seven and a half cents per pound. Let us make a calculation for eighty-five thousand pounds at seven and a half cents per pound, and it gives $6,375, from which deduct $1,375 for expenses, and we have five thousand dollars profit.

He employs only about fifteen hands, and raises besides all the corn, beans, and other provisions for his family, and also all the hogs which are required on his place. Every thing which can make life comfortable seems to be raised in the greatest abundance on this place, and he lives to a large extent within himself; but yet avails himself likewise of such importations as are requisite for success in working his fazenda, or for the comfort of his family. His family consists of seven daughters and five sons, and when one is married, or arrives at the age of twenty-one years, he gives this son or daughter three thousand dollars upon which to commence business. Four of his daughters are married, and two of his sons, while one of his sons being in the military service at the seat of war, leaves at home three daughters and two sons. The entire family excepting the older son at home, present a very robust and healthy aspect, and the constitutional stamina of the old gentleman and old lady are not surpassed in any country. The son at home, whose health suffered in the army, so that he was discharged from service, is now recovering his vigor, but has not the appearance of a good constitution like the rest of the family.

The party rode out in the afternoon to visit the coffee field (cafézar) of his son-in-law, Senor Francisco de Paula Coma e Silva. He has some twenty thousand trees of various ages, and those most advanced indicating good development, with a fair prospect for a yield. But he could give us no definite idea of the past crop.

We here regaled with oranges and bananas of the finest quality, and coffee was also handed at the house.

SUNDAY, _October 22, 1865_.

During the morning I was requested to prescribe for a little son of Senor Francisco, and as there was no medicine in the house suited to the case, we rode to the town to learn if iodine, iodide of potash, and syrup of sarsaparilla could be found at the apothecary shop.

All the articles fortunately were on hand, and the keeper of the shop promised to have the medicine ready to-morrow morning. After calling upon several parties in the villa, we were entertained with music on the accordeon by a dark-skinned gentleman, while a parrot was paraded upon the table and supposed to be marching in time to the music, of which, however, I could not have a full appreciation. As will be perceived, this was a Sunday exercise, and in the mean time our old friend, Senor Joaquim, went out to attend mass.

After returning to São Lorenço, the camarada was sent to the villa for our baggage, which had been left behind the day previous.

In the afternoon I was summoned by Mr. Bennaton to join a party who were going out, and found they were preparing for a hunt. I was offered a gun, and the gentlemen of the family were very much surprised at my refusal to accept it, as they had previously understood that I was fond of shooting. Though I declined the gun, the Sabbath was violated by accompanying the huntsmen on horseback. Several shots were fired by different members of the party, at a species of partridge nearly as large as a chicken, but no game was secured, and a shower of rain induced a precipitate return to the house. I told them it was a judgment sent upon us for violating the Sabbath, and resolved not to be again lead into such a departure from my sense of duty. Fortunately our baggage had arrived and afforded us dry clothes.

Shortly after our return, there arrived two visitors from the villa, who were also quite wet, and had to avail themselves of a supply of dry clothes from our host and his son. One of these gentlemen was Senor Dom Aguiar, Municipal Judge, and the other was Senor Lenente Coronal Antonio Carlos de Arruda Botilho, who owns a large fazenda some thirty miles distant, at which he resides.

Having friends and business relations with this place, this latter gentleman is frequently in the villa of Araraquara, and is held in good repute by those residing in the neighborhood. With these people a ride of thirty miles is a small matter, as they frequently set out at or before daylight, and make the distance upon a good mule before breakfasting. From the lateness of the hour at which these gentlemen came, I suppose they expected to remain for the night, and now since they have changed their own clothes for others belonging to the family, there is no alternative. The social relations among people in this country who are on a basis of equality seems to be accompanied with great freedom of intercourse, and liberty in their deportment about the dwellings of each other, while nothing like rudeness, or want of proper personal respect, has attracted my attention.

While it is my purpose to record as far as practicable every thing which may illustrate the industrial resources of Brazil, it also appears to be proper that I should give such incidents as may serve to give an idea of the manners and customs of the people, and this must be done in some cases by implicating myself in scenes that do not comport with my views of propriety, as to-day.

MONDAY, _October 23, 1865_.

A letter from the President of the province of São Paulo being received by Mr. Bennaton, from which he inferred that General W. W. W. Wood, of Mississippi, needed his assistance on the way to this point, he proposed to return for the purpose of meeting him. I declined to accompany him, and told him it would suit me better to remain in this vicinity, for the purpose of examining such places as might be conveniently visited during his absence.

My old friend, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, invited me to sojourn at his house, and kindly offered to aid me in looking around the country, or in any other matter that might be desired.

He authorized Mr. Bennaton to say to me that there is a very comfortable house upon an adjoining place to this, which he will cheerfully furnish for the use of my family, and that he will also supply them with provisions and all other necessaries for living, free of all cost, until some more satisfactory arrangement can be made for them, and invites me to bring them here should a purchase be made anywhere in this region.

I returned my most profound thanks for this generous offer, and felt truly that “a friend in need is a friend indeed.” As yet, however, I am unable to say whether circumstances will permit me to accept the proposition, though it is evidently tendered in good faith, and with the expectation that a location for my friends may be found in this vicinity. I rode out with my host to see the house and grounds offered for my family, and found every thing more inviting than most dwellings in this country, with abundant supply of water.

Mr. Bennaton having left, I find myself thrown upon my own resources in communicating with those around me, and though attended with much embarrassment and difficulty, it will serve greatly to advance my knowledge of the Portuguese language.