Part 13

Upon arriving at the situ, we found that our camarada and cook had every thing in progress for dinner, and we were soon served with a good, warm, substantial repast, which seemed to be appreciated by all, after the long and tiresome day’s ride, through campos, in the sun.

After dining, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, at our request, sketched upon the ground the outline of this extensive collection of lands, and its relations to other adjoining places, giving a rough map of all the tracts of land convenient to the villa of Araraquara which it was supposed would be sold. Upon this, Mr. Street based a plan and sketched the outlines for a map, which he proposed to fill out in examining the surrounding country, and it is likely to be very useful.

TUESDAY, _October 31, 1865_.

Getting an extra early breakfast, we set out this morning, and rode through a wide extent of rather indifferent land, diversified by hill and dale, as well as broad-extended plains. There were some portions of woodland, having a light soil, in which the sandy element prevailed to an extent that must render it of small value. But there were other portions of woodland, with a reddish-colored soil, which were evidently of a better quality. Yet none had the dark purple hue which characterizes the terra rocha soil, and which is regarded the best quality of land in this country.

In passing through the fazenda of Monte Allegre, immense undulating plains of red soil were traversed; and different views were entertained as to the practicability of cultivating these lands successfully with the plough. There is in many places almost no vegetation, and the dry, hard, red earth looks as if it scarcely had the requisite elements for the germination and sustentation of grass or plants of any kind. This may depend in part upon the long-protracted drought which has existed in all this region of country; yet it is an inexplicable circumstance that no planter attempts to raise a crop upon any portion of these campos, and their cultivation would certainly be attended with less labor than clearing up matto lands. An experiment with the plough should, however, be made, with a view to test their productiveness.

When we reached the situ of Senor José Pinto, in charge of this fazenda, every thing was found ready for our comfort, as he had been notified of our coming by Senor Joaquim Lorenço. Being in advance, with some others who did not speak Portuguese, it devolved upon me to use my small stock in communicating with the proprietor, and I am encouraged to find that my words are understood, while I comprehend much that is said by others in this tongue.

Dinner was served in accordance with the most approved style of the country, the courses being of great variety, and the plates being frequently changed. We were agreeably surprised with the excellent taste displayed in connection with the table, and it was no less a matter of admiration to find beds arranged for all our large party with the greatest elegance. The pillow-cases were decorated with fine lace, and some of the spreads were beautifully embroidered. It is an odd fancy with many families to have towels of very fine material trimmed with very broad lace, and this was exhibited here in the greatest profusion upon the towels for our use.

There is a water-course on each side of the houses, which, uniting below, form a considerable stream. This large creek has a fall upon it, which affords a very favorable site for machinery, and indeed each of the smaller streams is also adapted to supply good water-power, while one of them already has a cotton-gin and grist-mill in operation, but both on a small scale.

In an enclosure near the mill-house there are two large trees, called Ximbo, which we were told had been planted there some years ago; and this would seem to indicate that the land will grow other trees better than those usually seen in campos. These trees present a luxuriant, thriving aspect, and afford a very fine shade for stock, while they would be highly decorative and useful in the immediate vicinity of the dwelling. It is remarked, however, that shade trees are seldom seen here about a house, and the climate being very warm during most of the year, the benefit of the trees ought to be apparent to all.

Orange trees are growing in the garden attached to this house, and though not bearing at present, they are well developed and will doubtless yield abundantly in proper season. The oranges in all this region are said to be very fine, and in some places the trees are found still with some fruit, which is of the very best quality. It has been a matter of consideration with me, whether the growing of the orange for the purpose of making wine and brandy might not become profitable. That a good article of each can be produced has already been satisfactorily proved, and there is a modification of the wine, known by the name of Coracão, which is very much prized. This name implies that it is adapted to cheer the heart, and it is considered a great delicacy. I have tasted a specimen of the ordinary wine of the orange, and thought it corresponded very much to the Sherry wine, which is certainly one of the best wines that is imported to the United States.

A dog-kennel with seventeen deer-hounds was seen here, and these animals have sharp ears like the wolf, with greater activity and fleetness than our hounds.

WEDNESDAY, _November 1, 1865_.

At five o’clock this morning three of the party and myself joined the proprietor in making a tour of observation in the plantation and neighboring woodlands of Monte Allegre. The soil was not of a superior quality, yet it would doubtless produce moderately well. Cotton had been planted last year, and seemed to have made an average stalk, while that more recently planted was growing quite as well as the want of cultivation would warrant. The large proportion of unproductive land upon this fazenda, and the medium quality of most of the woodland, do not present encouraging features for a settlement upon it. Yet the fine location, and the water facilities, have evidently inspired General Wood with the idea that it would afford a favorable location for a city of newcomers. It is thought, moreover, that in the event of the extension of a railroad to this region, it will pass in the immediate vicinity of this place. That the location is healthy is shown by the residence of a large family and quite a gang of negroes for many years at this site, with very slight sickness of any kind. But there are wanting, in my view, the most essential requisites for building a city, or for establishing a large number of our people, in the deficient basis for agricultural pursuits and the absence of means of transportation, while there is a very scanty supply of timber at any point convenient for use. We need many things in commencing a settlement for which we must depend upon the resources of the surrounding country, or upon transportation from other parts; and in case these supplies are not likely to be found near at hand, the means of ready communication with some furnishing point becomes essential.

We left Monte Allegre about 9 o’clock A. M., and came out through a different portion of the territory from that previously seen, but found no improvement in the nature of the soil. At one point we were informed that a field of coffee (cafézar) was near the road, but being of recent planting, it would have afforded very little idea of the fitness of the soil to its growth, and hence we did not visit it. The woodlands passed through to-day belonged to that class known as terra branca, having a large proportion of sand mixed with the soil, and might perhaps be appropriate for the cultivation of cotton for a few years.

After leaving the lands of Monte Allegre, I proceeded with Senor Joaquim Lorenço, and Mr. Snell as interpreter, to examine some of the woodland belonging to the tract known as Lageado. The growth upon it is of good size, and much of it very suitable for building purposes. There is a stream of water suited for domestic purposes running lengthwise throughout the body of woods, and there is a large water-course at one extremity, which is available for machinery. This land is of a gray aspect, having a considerable proportion of sand; yet Senor Joaquim thinks it will grow every thing to advantage excepting coffee and sugar-cane. He tells me also that there is a portion of red land (terra vermilho) which would grow those articles in common with others.

THURSDAY, _November 2, 1865_.

Accompanied by Senor Joaquim Lorenço, we moved at daylight from his fazenda en route for Brotas and Jahu, and without any incident of special moment, we stopped about noon at the fazenda of Senor Jacinto Antonio Fagandes, (deceased.) We were supplied with water, and also with milk and water mixed, which spoiled both these articles, and brought up associations that ought not to arise in connection with the hospitality of our friends. We were furnished with coffee also after waiting until our patience was exhausted, but it was thankfully received and enjoyed.

Here we saw the skin of an ant-eater, (Tamandoa Bandoera,) which is of a gray color, with the hair upon the back very harsh and long, and the tail of immense size, spreading out like a fan at the sides. This animal has powerful arms and front paws, with which it tears up the earth in search of the nests of the ant; and it is said to be very ferocious when encountered by other animals. An instance has been communicated, in which an ant-eater and a tiger became engaged, with the result of killing the former, yet the claws had been so imbedded in the flesh of the tiger that it remained clinging to it, until the sickening and emaciation of the tiger made it an easy prey to the hunter, when the dried body of the ant-eater was found still attached by its claws to the body of the tiger.

This is given as reported to me by a person who claimed to have a personal knowledge of the fact, and illustrates the tenacious grasp of this animal.

After leaving the dwelling, and its incumbent of milk and water memory, we passed through a portion of the land of this fazenda, which contains about eighteen thousand acres, and is now for sale. There is a branch or small creek with very clear water, which was crossed after entering one of the fields. The soil here was evidently well suited to the growth of corn, as there were large heaps lying in the husk on each side of the road, preparatory to being hauled and put into the crib or paijol. There were also a number of young coffee trees growing in this field, but we had no information as to their age, and it is sufficient to remark that they looked vigorous and healthy, with a good prospect for the future.

The party to whose estate this place belongs owned three large fazendas; and there is one located near Lemeira, which is said to be a valuable coffee plantation, giving a large annual yield.

The place passed this morning is called Carrentes, and is about two miles from the situ of Major Gaveão.

After leaving these lands, we passed through a most dreary sand-bed of nearly two leagues in extent, and crossing the Jacaré river at a water-fall, (Cachoeira,) we stopped for the night at the residence of Senor José Rodrigues Simães.

This is a very superior site for machinery, and yet the main stream is not made available, while a small stream entering into it is turned into a race through a large hollow log, and moves quite a large sugar-mill and a monjolo.

A trough was measured here with dimensions of forty by forty-five inches. We were supplied with oranges and limes in great abundance and of the finest quality. In the course of the evening, I had stepped into the back part of the house to ask a servant to bring me a basin of water; and shortly afterwards the proprietor of the house, in company with my old friend, Senor Joaquim, came to me with a candle in his hand and said something about sickness, which I supposed referred to myself. I told him in Portuguese, of course, as neither of them understood any thing else, that nothing ailed me, and that the water asked for was simply to wash my hands and face.

They looked at each other, and wearing quite an embarrassed aspect, repeated the remark as to the sickness, which, with my imperfect knowledge of the language, was not properly understood, but was construed to mean, that I had better go to a room and lie down. Again I remonstrated, when the old Colonel gave me to understand that it was not on my account, but for the relief of another, that they desired me to go to the room. This placed the matter upon quite a different basis, and I proceeded to examine a man who had been seriously wounded on the head by the blow of a cudgel, while engaged in an affray. He was then laboring under oppression of the brain to some extent, and learning that his bowels were torpid, I administered a dose of calomel, with directions to follow it with oil, and to keep cloths wet with cold water constantly to his head, which should be placed near a window.

I went out of the room, hoping but little for any benefit from the treatment, and yet he was not in a state to bear blood-letting. Our interpreter being absent from the house caused the awkward interview as reported.

FRIDAY, _November 3, 1865_.

We were all roused before daylight, to make ready for the road, and upon examining my patient I was gratified to find that his medicine had been productive of good results, with encouragement to hope for recovery.

Getting a cup of coffee before starting, we took breakfast at the house of Senor José Venancio Carneiro, and reached Brotas at twelve o’clock. We found the population alive to the importance of the visit, and an address of welcome was made to General W. W. W. Wood by Dom Francisco Ernesto Malheiros, to which the General responded. Mr. Bennaton repeated the remarks of the former at the close of his address, making &c., &c., &c., cover a large gap in memory. But he interpreted the words of the General as they were delivered, giving each paragraph separately, as a pause was made for that purpose. This part of the performance was executed to the entire satisfaction of all concerned.

I delivered a letter to the above-named gentleman, and also one to Senor Francisco de Campos of the place, each of whom tendered any assistance that might be useful to me or my friends.

It was gratifying to find here among those who rode out to meet us my friend Rev. A. L. Blackford; and upon leaving, he rode out several miles with me, as an act of personal kindness and courtesy, which was duly appreciated.

We dined in the villa of Brotas, at a house owned by the same gentleman at whose residence we breakfasted, but he was not present on either occasion, being at some distance on business in the country. Being notified by Senor Joaquim, the family arranged every thing.

When our party were in readiness to start out of town in the afternoon, there was quite a large concourse of gentlemen on horseback presented themselves to accompany us on our way; and the street was thronged on the side-walks and in the windows with women and others, who seemed to look upon our movement as something remarkable for this quiet place.

General Wood had received an invitation before reaching the town, through a special messenger, to proceed to the house of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo and spend the night. It was also stated that several letters had been received by this gentleman from persons in São Paulo, suggesting that he should entertain this party; and hence the General set aside a previous arrangement of the old Colonel, that we would go to the house of his son-in-law, and went with Senor Camargo, to enjoy his hospitality.

Upon the special invitation of my old friend, I accompanied him to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, and found that all requisite preparations had been made for entertaining the entire company. Dinner had been in progress, and all the bedding was in readiness to make all comfortable for the night.

This residence is upon the elevated plateau of the serra, and we had a very steep ascent to make in reaching the crest, but once gained, the view of the country for miles up and down the valley, or rather the lower strata of land, was really magnificent. The soil here is excellent, and all the staples are growing well. Coffee seems to flourish particularly well, though not in terra rocha.

SATURDAY, _November 4, 1865_.

My old friend, the Colonel, rose at half-past three o’clock this morning, and directed our horses to be fed and coffee to be prepared for us, preliminary to early starting.

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were preparing to retire to bed. Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave, and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed. This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation. Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken, and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day, in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment. When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel, and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane. The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, and not apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin. Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture of coffee has not been introduced for a length of time to test its qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe, however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile lands.

This being the thirteenth anniversary of my marriage-day, it is recalled with many reflections as to the present wide separation from her who is united with me in the holy bonds of matrimony. The day and hour and attendant circumstances of our union have all been vividly brought to mind; and the many scenes of enjoyment, with some of sadness, which have marked our course in life, have caused emotions within my breast which those around knew nothing of, and which were not in unison with the stir and excitement of the past day.