Chapter 6

And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,

[62]_Gratáque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_.

But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_, and innovate the ancient Usage.

[63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_ _Post Vinum Stomacho_----

For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat, It floats upon the Stomach----

The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner, especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains undecided with them,

[64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_ _Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_

The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last, Why now with it begin we our Repast?

And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple: Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and _Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the _Kitchin-Garden_.

* * * * *

DRESSING

I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was _Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditæ Gulæ_; who read Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenæus_: Tho' after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_ and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and the rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of _Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age.

The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the _Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and cutting the Root into four equal Parts.

_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer; swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and _Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it self, as also Sweet _Fennel_.

From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may _Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner.

Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good _Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all _Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry _Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, 'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of _Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of _Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c.

_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most agreeable to your Taste.

These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_ (for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated _secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it,

[Greek: 'Ou ôantos andros esin artusai kalôs.] _Non est cujusvis rectè condire_.

And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet, there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended?

What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer, before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the _Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. should be inquir'd into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._ 1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and _Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants, and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since, and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds of _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_, and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _æthereal_, nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the Ages since.

_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together with the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first, especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist, that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour, and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions, with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidæ Mensæ_ (as of old they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_ indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd, and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events, supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as _Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; _Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_, refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd, and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay, perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture, Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers whoever.

We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronounce them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold, _Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours, and Constitutions whatsoever.

To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious Plants.

It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities, where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_ for the raising those _Præcoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_ Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_: There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self, as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only. Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_, by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable _Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_; because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_.

Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_ cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_, &c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the _Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high, presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_) shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_, casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating them with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_, &c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time, and without forcing Nature.

But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of _Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of _America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenæus_ tells us, was on the other side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late (as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest _Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldæans_, _Assyrians_, _Ægyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most _Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longævous _Elephant_, and other Feeders on Roots and Vegetables.

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_ Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_, _Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiæ, genus, & modus pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not) there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_. And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned: And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air, standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches, unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_ and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds, _&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple, homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.

[83]----_Nam variae res_ _Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_ _Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_----

For different Meats do hurt; Remember how When to one Dish confin'd, thou healthier wast than now:

was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet.

Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives; Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs little or no Variety to quicken and content it.

And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and many Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the _Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; and some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_ or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who had attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyond the famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and so may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet.