Chapter 5

Chapter 52,613 wordsPublic domain

Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the _Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_ Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the _Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_; too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent _Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd _Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned [56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious.

'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _è contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, _Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without _Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again _Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek: skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_) of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, _Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially _Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture: And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_ following.

II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.

III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, _Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.

A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put into a small Vessel to ferment.

IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of _Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful _Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevèe_ in lieu of our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and _Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_ and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_, _Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_, unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_, gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_ of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.

Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in _Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_, That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.

V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best _Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen _Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_ over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little _Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other _Mustard_ should be.

_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.

VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other _Peppers_, and more wholsom.

Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention _Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_, _Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.

Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the _German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_ and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_, boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_, _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the Herbs.

VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_, with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_, &c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.

IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes) be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients; _Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid _Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly of _Sallet-Herbs_.

The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions.

Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_, _Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several Seasons you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_ were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them? we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under these three or four Heads.

But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each containing and lasting Three Months.

_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.

* * * * *

[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]

========================================================================= Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

========================================================================= Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

/ _Lop_, \ \ Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil. \ _Roman_, Winter, / /

========================================================================= Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_. _and may be | eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts. themselves | _Cress_, / with some_ | Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts. _flowers_.

========================================================================= Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture.

/ _Turneps_, \ | _Mustard_ Seedlings, / One part of each. Green | | _Cresses_, broad, \ \ _Spinach_, / Two parts of each.

* * * * *

_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering, Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet.

And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are then properly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound with Juice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipating it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_ Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit for _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and tender Shoots and Leaves.

This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true; and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: The approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those other _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_, the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and prepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult _Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing _Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves, and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.

Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions, as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Quality whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than _Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of them eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of the _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, and hastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the _Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all the rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the Nature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. to be both the fittest _Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_.

We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd, _Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants, and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_, _Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_, _Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_, _Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other _Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_ and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our _Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_, or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is.

But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction; others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of _Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:

[60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_ _Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_.