Chapter 7

Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for the Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousand Years. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Constitution, there were Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_; _Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born; and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recount of the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition they had received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthful Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and his yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden; Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition concerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures (requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion to relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but one Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who did not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary and sufficient for us to know.

This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that during all this Space they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis little probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended God should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as suffer them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of Adoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_ was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho' pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures) as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous among them in the Ark.

Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and _Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and other luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the [87][Greek: makro-biotê-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison.

On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _ægyptian_ Priests of old) the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to this Day, observing the Institutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know was banish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_; (See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts. Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. we hear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand._ [90]_Eusebius_ names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others, whom _Lærtius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to _Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ of Wives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, and to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_ it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subdue an unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not so hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _Sextius_, and _Socion's_ (abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the _Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers of Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of nothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood and gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading, for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and Custom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be this apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_ Liquors. And now

I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone on this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ deckt in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted _Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd. Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any Account of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd (as _Sextius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruel Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and uncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition; Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_: Nor do Meats _commend us to God_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:) another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business, further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so

[94]_The_ Golden Age, _with this Provision blest,_ _Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast._ _The_ Demi-Gods _with Bodies large and sound,_ _Commended then the Product of the Ground._ _Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust_, _Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_ _Be their vile Names in Execration held,_ _Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_ _Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since,_ _With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence._ _Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly,_ _Which Death for our Destruction does supply._ _In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_ _Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure.

As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek: aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_, [95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _Imperial Constitutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of these Tracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating the _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and by our Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Spawn of Pagan _Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood has been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Water of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it only to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that so strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _Ceremonial Account_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_, to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Blood forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among _Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats.

As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty excepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians, the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and Obstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty God_ were not enough, it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ of the _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysterious Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_, &c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_ being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted the eating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That God might distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis likewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the _Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was mention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, which was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted Strangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandal of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so severely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ and Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted (which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted Drops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) but to those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, and in Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations and _Apician_ Tables.

But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verba facere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of preaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: And therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellæus_, who has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S. Chrysostom_, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_, _Dionysius Carthusianus_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of _Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_, _Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. amongst the _Protestants_; and _instar omnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, by the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions, _Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_ from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning it; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather for Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraôentai], and other devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taught much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom, _Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ our Lord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. and with several of the devout Sex, the famous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to name the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and _Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuously his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the eating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake; but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancient Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I think he's in the right.

But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has often been objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, may since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally become _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are not agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, where equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _Ordo Foliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongst other Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone, to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought up with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_; and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by their Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of _Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge (taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, we have the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks, _ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victu usum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable Speculation, That since _all Flesh is Grass_ (not in a _Figurative_, but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_, and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on Grass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _Incarnate Herb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself.

We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_ the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the _Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other Circumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency) so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking of Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots and Machinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothrêskeia], or thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This being so, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and _Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats (which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and [103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, and unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution? and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilst they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they pretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build their warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where there is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ where there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the Emperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _Constantine Copronymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom) and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not; Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it so far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they know not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful Remarks abroad.

'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life, plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative, unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit, as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious _Solitaries_, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries and Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and making, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_ for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their _Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these indeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought for abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent, and profitable Conversation.

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_ has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longævity_ of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr. _Ray_.

'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly Man by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor is he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor do we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permitted him, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c._

To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of Nature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; such fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body, such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens present us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd with Gore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_, purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew.

Survey we their _Bills of Fare_, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by _Athenæus_, drest with all the Garnish of _Nicander_ and other _Grecian_ Wits: What has the _Roman Grand Sallet_ worth the naming? _Parat Convivium_, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told,

----[107]_Varias, quas habet hortus opes?_ How richly the Garden's stor'd:

_In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum, Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c._

* * * * *

A Goodly Sallet!

_Lettuce_, _Leeks_, _Mint_, _Rocket_, _Colewort-Tops_, with _Oyl_ and _Eggs_, and such an _Hotch-Pot_ following (as the Cook in _Plautus_ would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age of ours, by the Variety of so many rare _Edules_ unknown to the Ancients, that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, let the _Sallet_ drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by _Jacobus Catsius_ (describ'd by the Poet [108]_Barlæus_) shew; not at all yet out-doing what we every Day almost find at our _Lord Mayor's Table_, and other great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookery being capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wanting of old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]_Nicomedes_ a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a _Pilchard_ (a Fish he exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in its Shape, and drest with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Pepper_, that so deceiv'd, and yet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he had ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious _Gardiner_ may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth.

Vitellius _his Table, to which every Day_ _All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay,_ _Could nothing more delicious afford_ _Than Nature's Liberality._ _Help'd with a little Art and Industry,_ _Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board,_ _The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse,_ _For which the Grape or Melon she would lose._ _Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air._ _Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;_ _Yet still the_ Sallet, _and the_ Fruit _we see_ _Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury_.

So the Sweet [110]_Poet_, whom I can never part with for his Love to this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me.