Part 2

The last of _May_, after we had broke our fast in a village call’d _Limona_, we came to mount _Brothus_, where we saw many pleasant vineyards; and so by _Tenda_ into another village, call’d _Sorgo_, where we staid all night.

The first of _June_ we reached to _Nissa_ in the morning, a city with a strong citadel, upon the _Tyrrhenian_ sea, belonging to the Duke of _Savoy_, which the _Turkish_ Admiral _Barbarossa_ did for a long time besiege with great fury, and yet was forc’d to leave it, although he had the city in his possession, in the year 1543. Thither also came _Francis_ King of _France_, and the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth, to Pope _Paul_ the third, to have peace made between them. Thereabouts I espy’d some fine plants, but chiefly two sorts of _Papaver Corniculatum_, with large and stately flowers, yellow and brown; and also the _Ladanum latifolium_, and upon the hill towards _Villa Franca_, a _Convolvulus_ with white and purple-strip’d flowers, and with long and cut leaves.

The second we went from thence with more company, passing through the villages of _Antibo_, _Cacabo_, _Luc_, _Brignola_, _&c._ (where I found in the shops a sort of very delicate preserved Prunes, call’d in _English Prunellos_’s, which would be very useful in burning fevers against the thirst, in great quantity) to _Marseilles_, which maketh thirty _French_ miles or leagues; and we rode so fast onward, during this journey, that we arrived there in nineteen days after our departure, that is, on the fifth day of _June_: By the way I saw _Convolvulus foliis acutis_, _Rubia Tinctorum_, _Stœchas_, a fine _Sesely Peloponnesiacum_, _Thymelæa_, _Cistus_ with white and purple flowers, and also a kind of _Ladanum_ of the learned _Carolus Clusius_, with small Rosemary-leaves, _Terebinthus_, _Ilex Coccifera_, _Aspalathus_, and the _Polemonium Monspeliensium_ of _Rembert Dodonæus_, call’d _Trifolium fruticans_, _Ruscus_, _Lentiscus_, _Calamintha montana_, some common thistles, and others.

In _Marseilles_ where I was lodged in my forenam’d kinsman’s house, to stay untill the ships were ready, I met with one _John Ulrich Kraft_, son of _John Kraft_, one of the Privy Council at _Ulm_, who was arrived there a few days before, also with the same intention to go along with us, about his own business. We staid together, and while the ships were fitting out, we made ourselves acquainted with the Physicians and Apothecaries, but above the rest with one experienced man, _Jacob Renaud_, a great lover of plants, who shew’d me in his garden many pretty and strange simples, _viz._ _Scammonium verum_, _Ambrosia_, _Moly_, _Ammi_, _Aloës_, _&c._, and a great many dry’d and laid between papers. I found also about the city, _Trifolium Asphaltites_, _Lactuca marina_, _Dendillaria_, _Tragacantha Guilhelmi Rondeletii_, a great _Scabiosa_ with white flowers, _Gratiola_, _Gnaphalium marinum_, _Medica marina_, _Polygonum marinum_, _Eryngium marinum_, _Coris Monspeliensium_, another sort of _Tamariscus_, and of _Consolida_, with yellow sweet flowers, which I also found between _Nimes_, and _Pont du gard_, an old, strong, and fine building, upon which I did find _Ruta Silvestris_, a sort of _Verbascum foliis dissectis_, _Papaver corniculatum flore flavo_; I also found thereabouts _Chondrilla Viminea_, growing chiefly in the vineyards, _Conyza major_, _Vermicularis fruticans_, _Carduus tomentosus_, not unlike to _Leucacantha_, _Nepa Lobelii in adversariis novis_; I also found _Tartonrayre_, _Aster atticus luteus_, _Psyllium_, _Seseli Æthiopicum fruticans_, _Jujubes_, _red Valeriana_, _Corruda Rembert. Dodon._, the first kind of _Catanance Dioscor._, which I first spy’d by it’s dry’d leaves, just like a Vulture’s claw, and many others, not needful to be here related.

After that the ship _Santa Croce_ was laden, victuall’d for three months, and provided with guns, and all other necessaries for a three months voyage; we two went with our master, _Anthony Reinard_, with some others belonging to him, in a frigat, the first day of _September_, in the year 1673, to our ship, which lay at anchor with several other laden ships, near the adjacent islands, with an intention to set sail the next day.

The next day about two in the afternoon, when God sent us a good wind, we hoisted up our sails, and went on: When our patron began to exhort his men to agree together, and to be obedient to him, which they all faithfully promised; then we went to prayers, and recommended ourselves to the protection of God Almighty.

In the first setting out, before we got to sea, our ship came so near to another, that they touch’d almost; and had not the seamen in time got them off, we might have suffer’d shipwreck.

When this was over, and we out of danger, we sail’d on with full sails six of us, and advanc’d so fairly, that we lost the sight of land before night, and could see nothing but sky and water.

Not long after, most of us began to be sea-sick, and to bring up what we had eaten some days before, but I and my comrade _Kraft_ purged ourselves that night so well, that we were very fresh again the next morning. Some of the rest remain’d sick for seven days after, and not one of us, altho’ we were forty eight, but was sick, and found an alteration after our shipping off.

After we had sail’d two days with a favourable wind, by the _Latins_ call’d _Caurus_, but by the _French_ and _Italians_, _Maistral_, which bloweth between north and west, and proceeded an hundred _French_ leagues, there arose on the fourth day about midnight another wind, call’d _Græco_, and by the _Latins_, _Cæcias_, which the more it went to the east, the more it was against us; so that we being hindred from going eastward, were forced to go sideways, and to traverse up and down, and were driven so far southwards, that on sunday night and monday morning we sail’d in sight of the coast of _Barbary_. After the wind was laid a little, and the dolphins appear’d in great numbers, we hoped for better weather, but for want of it, finding ourselves advance towards _Africa_ more and more, we were forced to tack about, and to direct our course towards _Marseilles_ again.

We going thus back again, contrary to our intentions, feared that the wind would hold so a while, but contrary to our expectation, it came to be so calm towards the night, that we could hardly perceive any. Then we hoped it would change, which did also succeed accordingly, for the next morning before break of day the _Maistral_ began to blow again, which pleased us extremely, and so we return’d and pursued our former course again towards the east, and on monday we sail’d so fast, that in an hours time we made ten _Italian_ miles, and on the 9th day came into the streights of _Sardinia_ and _Africa_, where we saw an island call’d _Gallicia_, which, altho’ it be but small, yet, because of the high mountains, is seen afar off; we left it about thirty leagues on one side of us. This island is subject to no body, wherefore a great many pirates lye lurking there: In it is no great matter to be seen, only wild Capers grow there in great plenty. We, finding ourselves in this dangerous place, were not idle, altho’ the ship was well provided with guns, pikes, and other arms, but got our great guns ready, and fill’d our chamber, in which we two were, with guns and swords, so that it look’d rather like an armoury of the whole ship than a chamber. Moreover, because we were afraid of some huge rocks that lye in the sea, chiefly of them which the seamen call _Leuci_, they observ’d them diligently, not only in their sea chart, to know which way they might avoid them, but kept a good watch all that night to observe them, and so with the help of God we got safely clear of them.

A little after we came in view of the kingdom of _Tunis_ in _Africa_, with some adjacent islands; amongst them there is one call’d _Simles_, which, tho’ but small, is very fruitful, and therein groweth the best _Aristolochia rotunda_ in abundance.

We lost this the next morning, and westward upon our right hand, at about forty miles distance, we saw another, call’d _Panthalarea_, subject to the King of _Spain_, which is inhabited by above three hundred people; _Sicily_ on our left, because the night fell in, we did not then see, but came so near it, that early in the morning we could not only see the hills and mountains, and chiefly the _Mongibello_, which is very high, situated at the other side of the famous city of _Syracusa_, but also the buildings and steeples distinctly; we sail’d also the whole day by that side that lieth over-against the isle of _Malta_, so long till we came to the last point thereof: And altho’ we were not in a little danger there, because of the war, yet we saw no more than one small ship early in the morning by _Malta_, which we took to be of _Marseilles_. So, God be praised, we arrived very well, and without any hindrance at the farthest point of _Sicily_, on the 11th day of _September_ in the evening, which is reckon’d to be 900 _Italian_ miles from _Marseilles_; and we hoped also with the help of the Almighty to go the rest of our voyage to _Cyprus_, which is 1300 more, three of which are reckon’d to a _French_ league, for we crossed the _Adriatick_ and _Tyrrhenian_ seas, so happily by good weather, as if we had gone the other way through the streights. And although we sail’d on very fast, yet the wind was uncertain, for one arose after another, so that we had three several winds that night and day, _viz._ first, _Maistral_ after midnight, which lasted until morning; then the _Betsch_, that blew from south-west very violently, in _Latin_ call’d _Africus_, which lasted till night; then follow’d the _Ponente_, which bloweth from the west towards night, which commonly ariseth upon the coast of _Africa_, as the old seamen observe, and we found it so ourselves, on the day of the Holy Cross, not without trouble or danger; for as the seamen kept that day, and according to their old custom discharged three great guns, the _Betsch_ arose immediately with very great violence, so that the waves swell’d very high, and the ship was toss’d about from one side to the other, and did rock us so, that if we had not held ourselves, we could not have kept our places, as did happen to some of our company that did not observe this, and were strangely tumbled about in the ship, and forc’d to creep on all fours to their places again. This wind began to remit towards night, when the _Maistral_ began to blow. With this _Maistral_ we went on, and came so far, that on monday the 15th of _September_ early, we did make the island _Candy_, and soon after another, now call’d _Cerigo_, anciently _Cythera_, near to the _Morea_. That day we had very good weather, and it was so calm that we could reach no further than to the point of _Candy_. Thus going on, another wind arose, blowing from south-east, call’d _Sirocco_, and in _Latin_, _Vulturnus_, which was contrary too, and hinder’d us very much, so that we were forced to sail upon one side, to weather the point from one side to the other; when we came to the side of _Creet_, and our patron would neither land in _Candy_ nor in a little island call’d _Legosia_, we turn’d on wednesday towards _Africa_. Some while after, a very great tempest arose, with thunder and lightning, so that we had work enough with our sails, and to rule the ship that it might take no hurt; and we sailing thus against the wind, that it might not cast us back, this made us more work than the rest, for the waves went against us so vehemently, that when we were mounted to the top of a wave, we seem’d to look down thence into a deep and dark valley; then down we went again with such a fury, that we thought we should descend to the bottom, which continued almost till the next morning. And although the tempest had thrown us a good way back, yet in a little time we got so far forward again, that we could descry _Candy_, and the little island _Legosia_. Just then we spy’d two ships, one a bark, ten miles off to the left, and the other a great ship going to _Africa_.

After we were thus gone along by _Creet_, we came on friday just over-against the city of _Candy_; it came to be so calm and so warm, that we could hardly perceive we were come above three or four miles. We going thus slowly, some of our company jump’d out into the sea to wash themselves; but the mate of our ship run a fish through with a long spear for that purpose, call’d _Lischa_, and so pull’d it out; this was delicately colour’d, and very pleasant to look upon; his back was blew, and his belly white and glisning, above a yard long, of a tender flesh, and very good to eat: This seems to have been a _Tunny_.

Just over-against it is a monastry of St _Francis_, in which is a very good Apothecary’s shop, and a delicate garden, fill’d with strange and useful plants.

There is also not far off a good and safe port, call’d _Calisme_, where we would willingly have taken in water, but because it lay thirty miles before us, and the wind, _Sirocco_, contrary to us, began to blow again, and hindred us in this enterprise; we steer’d on saturday towards the south, that we might reach it the next morning.

About noon, when we turn’d again to the _Porto_, we saw another ship on the left, and because we did not know how to trust her, we look’d to our great guns, of which we had thirteen, and got them ready, and also the rest of our arms, _&c._ But the longer we look’d upon the ship, the farther we perceived her go from us. When we came within twelve miles of the port, and hoped to make it, the wind changed, and the _Tramontana_ blew from the north vehemently; so we went on in our right course to the islands _Calderon_ and _Christiana_, so that on monday we passed the furthest point of _Creet_, call’d _Caput Salomonis_, where we saw on the hight another island, situated sixty _Italian_ miles from _Rhodus_, call’d _Scarpanthos_, and also _Carpathos_, where night befel us. But when we expected to go forwards with this wind, we lost it, and it changed into _Græco_ again, contrary to us, and so we could not go on farther, but were forced to cross up and down and to weather the point. On Monday we saw a ship that came directly down upon us, wherefore we went to meet her, and put our flag at the top of our main-mast. But when we came nearer we knew her to be a _Marsilian_, called _Santa Maria de Lacura Bursa_, they did send out one of their boats to tell us, that they came seven weeks agone from _Tripoli_, and that they wanted biscuits very much, and therefore desired us to let them have some of ours, to which we willingly agreed, and let them have what they would, and so they were very well pleased. While this was done, a good wind arose again, serving us both, called _Tramontana_, so that we could go forwards and they homewards, and so we parted. Then our master ordered three guns to be discharged, which they answered with two, so we went on, and lost sight of one another in half an hour’s time.

Here is to be observed, that of the four cardinal, and four side winds, five were for us; for we could go on as well with the _Tramontana_ and the _Midi_, called north and south, as with the three other, called north-west, west, and south-west, and so we had three contrary ones, _Syrocco_, _Levantino_, and _Græco_, which were contrary to us in our going; during this wind we went on with such speed, that on the 24th of _September_ in the evening we saw the great island _Cyprus_, five hundred miles beyond _Candy_. But because we had steered too much on the right, we were forced to spend all that night and the next day before we could come to _Cyprus_. The same morning we saw the high mountain _Libanus_ in _Syria_, two hundred miles distant from us, and so at night we got into the harbour of _Salamine_: Here is made the best bay-salt that is in the world. Here we also discharged three guns, for joy of our safe arrival, and some of us landed, together with our master, to take in water, and to enquire after our friends and acquaintance. No sooner were we landed, but we met with two travelling _Turks_, with an _Italian_ that understood their language: They spake to us by their interpreter, and conducted us to their Colonel, who was encamped near the market-place of _Salamine_ upon a hill, where one might see a great way off into the sea. After an hour’s walk we came in sight of him, and saw about thirty tents, and amongst them his also, where we saw some curious tapestry spread, and him sitting in the midst, with a delicate white turbant, and a long red lined _Caban_.

He held in his hand a long iron, like a grater we use to grate bread withal, only it was a great deal smaller: The _Turkish_ persons of quality have generally such irons in their hand in the summer-time; which they put in between their back and cloaths to scrach their backs when they itch: About him sat some more gentlemen bended down, and others kept centinel without his tent, with guns and scymiters well provided. Amongst the rest there was one of a good presence covered with a Tyger’s skin, that held a great iron club in his hand. Upon his desire we went to him, with the usual reverences, according to their custom, bending our head and the whole body downwards, and laying the right hand upon our breasts: Our master also pulled off his shoes, went in, and sate down with the rest before him: But we two set ourselves down without upon two seats that were brought us. Then the Lord began to ask our master, by his interpreter, from whence we came, how long we had been a coming, what merchandizes we had brought, and whether we designed to make any sale there; which questions our master answered. Then he began to enquire after news: _viz._ whereabout the _Spanish Armada_ was at present, and how strong it was reputed; whether the King of _Spain_ had made any leagues with other princes; and how the King of _France_ did agree with his _Hugonots_; how strong the city of _Rochelle_ was, and whether the King took it by violence, or whether they submitted themselves voluntarily. After this conference had lasted for half an hour, he dismissed us with great civility, giving us leave to go about our affairs. So we went off with the usual ceremonies, and went the same evening into the market of _Salamine_, to enquire after our friends; but we found this market-town, and also all the neighbourhood so strangly spoiled, that there were but very few whole houses standing. But being that we found none of ours, nor having any business there, we returned to our ship. I found nothing by the way but a few _Caper-bushes_ with some _Paliurus_’s and _Kali_.

After our men had filled water enough out of the well by the harbour we went aboard the ship again, hoisted up our sail, and departed in the night. But in going thence for _Tripoli_ we had for the most part contrary winds, which hindred us so much, that we did not arrive there until the last day of _September_. Thanks, honour, and glory be to the Almighty God, that mercifully did protect us from all dangers and mischiefs, and brought us safely into this harbour.

CHAP. II.

_Of the famous city of ~Tripoli~, of it’s fruitful neighbourhood and great trade: And also of the splendid baths, and other magnificent buildings to be seen there. Their ways of making Rusma, Pot-ashes, Soap, ~&c.~_

Before _Tripoli_, near the sea-shore, we saw five castles like high towers, distant from one an other about a musquet-shot, where some Janisaries are kept in garrison, to cover the ships in the harbour (which is in some measure surrounded with rocks) and to defend that custom-house, and the several ware-houses (where you may see all sorts of goods brought from most parts of the world) from an hostile attempt or assault: but after the sun was set, and night began to approach, we made what haste we could to the town, which was an hour’s going distant from us. Some _Turks_ went with us no otherways armed but with good strong cudgels, which, I was told, they commonly carry to keep off the wolves called Jacals (whereof there are a great many in these countries that are used to run, seek, and pursue after their prey in the night). While we were a talking of them some came up pretty near us, but as soon as they saw us they turned and ran away. When we came to the gate of the town we found it shut up, wherefore one of our friends, that met us to make us welcome, called to some _Frenchmen_ that were in their inn, in their language called _Fondique_, which is near the gate, and reacheth quite to the wall of the town, and desired that one of them would take the pains to go to the _Sangiacho_, to desire him to let the gate be opened to let us in, which they were willing to do. But in the mean time that we staid before the gate, another that was an enemy to our friend ran also away, and bespoke some _Turks_ and _Moors_ to set upon us, which they were very willing to do, and came with all speed through another gate that is never shut, along the wall to us, fell unawares upon us, struck at us, and took hold of us, chiefly at our good friend, for whose sake all this was done; others drew their scymiters upon us, so that I thought we should have been all cut to pieces. While this was a doing the gate was opened, and some _Frenchmen_ and their Consul himself came to our assistance, and spoke to these fellows, earnestly exhorting them to desist, and to let the cause be decided by the _Sangiacho_ and _Cadi_, which at length they did. So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the crowd into their _Fondique_, where we remained all that night. The Consul was very much displeased at this, considering that such-like proceedings would be very troublesome to them, wherefore he made great complaints and enquiries, until at length he found out who was the author thereof.