Part 1

Mr. RAY’s Travels.

VOL. II.

A COLLECTION OF CURIOUS Travels and Voyages. CONTAINING, Dr. _Leonhart Rauwolf_’s Journey Into the _Eastern_ Countries, _viz._ SYRIA, PALESTINE, or the HOLY LAND, ARMENIA, MESOPOTAMIA, ASSYRIA, CHALDEA, _&c._

Translated from the Original _High Dutch_, By _NICHOLAS STAPHORST_.

AND ALSO, TRAVELS into GREECE, ASIA _minor_, EGYPT, ARABIA _felix_, PETRÆA, ETHIOPIA, the RED SEA, _&c._

Collected from the Observations of Mons. BELON, PROSPER ALPINUS, Dr. HUNTINGDON, Mr. VERNON, Sir GEORGE WHEELER, Dr. SMITH, Mr. GREAVES, and others.

To which are added three Catalogues of such _Trees_, _Shrubs_, and _Herbs_, as grow in the LEVANT.

By the Rev. _JOHN RAY_, F. R. S.

The SECOND EDITION Corrected and Improved.

VOL. II.

_LONDON_: Printed for _J. Walthoe_, _D. Midwinter_, _A. Bettesworth_, and _C. Hitch_, _W. Innys_, _R. Robinson_, _J. Wilford_, _A. Ward_, _J._ and _P. Knapton_, _T. Longman_, _O. Payne_, _W. Shropshire_, _J._ and _R. Tonson_, _T. Woodman_, _R. Chandler_, and _J. Wellington_. 1738.

THE CONTENTS.

PART. I.

Chap. I. _Which way I went first of all, from ~Augspurg~ to ~Marseilles~, and from thence shipped over the Seas towards ~Tripoli~ of ~Syria~, situated in ~Phœnecia~._ pag. 1

Chap. II. _Of the famous city of ~Tripoli~, of it’s fruitful neighbourhood and great trade; and also of the splendid baths, and other magnificent buildings to be seen there. Their ways of making Rusma, Pot-ashes, Soap, ~&c.~_ p. 14

Chap. III. _Of the ~Turks~ of high and low conditions, men and women; of their employments, offices, manners, customs, cloaths, as much as I could at ~Tripoli~ (during my abode) understand, see, and learn thereof._ p. 26

Chap. IV. _A description of the plants I gathered at ~Tripoli~._ p. 35

Chap. V. _Which way I travell’d from ~Tripoli~ farther to the two famous cities of ~Damant~ and ~Aleppo~._ p. 42

Chap. VI. _Of the situation of the potent city of ~Aleppo~; of the buildings thereof, and also of the delicate fruits and fine plants, that grow there, within and without gardens._ p. 45

Chap. VII. _Of the high places and authority of Bashaws, what great courts they keep, and how they administer their offices; as also of their way of living, of their privileges, of their manners and conversation._ p. 51

Chap. VIII. _Of the great trading and dealing of the city of ~Aleppo~; as also several sorts of their meats and drinks; of their ceremonies, and their peculiar way of sitting down at meals._ p. 61

Chap. IX. _A short and plain relation of plants, which I gather’d during my stay at ~Aleppo~, in and round about it, not without great danger and trouble, which I glued upon paper very carefully._ p. 73

PART. II.

Chap. I. _How I departed from ~Aleppo~ to the famous city of ~Bir~; and how I sailed from thence on the ~Euphrates~ to Old ~Babylon~._ p. 87

Chap. II. _Which way we went into the ship, and sailed to ~Racka~; and how the son of the King of ~Arabia~, with his retinue came to our ship to demand his customs; what else we saw by the way, and what we did suffer from the ~Arabians~ and their Mendicants._ p. 96

Chap. III. _Of the city of ~Racka~, and of it’s situation; and also something of the departure of the King of ~Arabia~; and of his league with the ~Turkish~ Emperor; and also of the trouble we had with the Custom-house-officer or ~Publican~._ p. 110

Chap. IV. _Of the inhabitants of the mountains, and the great wilderness we came through to ~Deer~; of their ancient origination, and miserable and laborious livelihood._ p. 117

Chap. V. _Of our voyage to the famous town ~Ana~, in which we passed again through great sandy wildernesses; for the performance whereof we must provide ourselves with victuals, and be very careful in our navigation. Some relation of the inhabitants, of their cloaths, and other things we did observe and see by the way, and what else did happen unto us._ p. 124

Chap. VI. _Which way we travell’d from ~Ana~ farther to Old ~Babylon~, by some ancient towns call’d ~Haddidt~, ~Juppe~, ~Idt~, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated fields on each side than before._ p. 132

Chap. VII. _Of Old ~Babylon~ the Metropolis of ~Chaldee~, and it’s situation; and how it is still to this day, after it’s terrible desolation, to be seen, with the tower or turret, and the old ruined walls lying in the dust._ p. 137

Chap. VIII. _Of the famous city of ~Bagdat~, call’d ~Baldac~; of it’s situation, strange plants, great traffick, and Merchants of several nations that live there, together with several other things I saw and did learn at my departing._ p. 142

Chap. IX. _Which way I came in my return from ~Bagdat~, through ~Assyria~, the confines of ~Persia~, and the province of the ~Curters~, to the town ~Carcuch~, ~Capril~, &c. and at length to the river ~Tygris~, to ~Mossel~, that famous town which was formerly call’d ~Nineveh~._ p. 159

Chap. X. _Which way we went through ~Mesopotamia~, by the way of ~Zibin~ and ~Orpha~, to ~Bir~, not without a great deal of danger; and afterwards how we passed the great river, the ~Euphrates~, and came at last into ~Syria~, by ~Nisib~, to the famous town of ~Aleppo~._ p. 168

Chap. XI. _Of the ~Turkish~ Physicians and Apothecaries; of my comrade ~Hans Ulrich Krafft~ of ~Ulm~’s hard imprisonment; of the great danger that I was in, in the two towns of ~Aleppo~ and ~Tripoli~; of the murdering of some Merchants, and what else did happen when I was there._ p. 179

Chap. XII. _Of the large and high mount of ~Libanus~, it’s inhabitants and strange plants that are found there._ p. 186

Chap. XIII. _Cunning and deceitful stratagems of the ~Grand Turk~ against the inhabitants of mount ~Libanus~, the ~Trusci~, and ~Maronites~; and how he made war with them, and what damage they sustained by it._ p. 198

PART. III.

Chap. I. _A Short description of his departure from ~Tripoli~, a town of ~Phœnicia~ in ~Syria~, and how I went from thence to ~Joppa~._ p. 203

Chap. II. _A short relation of my travels by land from the harbour of ~Joppa~, to the city of ~Jerusalem~._ p. 212

Chap. III. _A plain description of the city of ~Jerusalem~, as it was to be seen in our time; and of the adjacent countries._ p. 220

Chap. IV. _Of mount ~Sion~, and it’s holy places._ p. 229

Chap. V. _Of the mount ~Moria~, and the glorious temple of ~Solomon~._ p. 239

Chap. VI. _Of the ~Saracens~ and ~Turkish~ religion, ceremonies and hypocritical life, with a short hint how long time their reign shall last after ~Mahomet~’s decease._ p. 257

Chap. VII. _Of mount ~Bethzetha~, and the two houses of ~Pilate~ and ~Herod~._ p. 258

Chap. VIII. _Of mount ~Calvaria~, and the holy grave of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ._ p. 260

Chap. IX. _Here follow some epitaphs of the Christian Kings of ~Jerusalem~, together with a short relation of their reigns and mighty deeds._ p. 271

Chap. X. _A common account of several sorts of Christians, but chiefly of them that are always to be found in the temple of mount ~Calvaria~. And also how these, and many other strangers, are treated by the ~Turkish~ Emperor (as by their chief head, to whom they are generally subjected) and his officers._ p. 275

Chap. XI. _Of the ~Greeks~._ p. 288

Chap. XII. _Of the ~Surians~ that esteem themselves to be Christians._ p. 290

Chap. XIII. _Of the ~Gregorians~._ p. 291

Chap. XIV. _Of the ~Armenians~ and their religion._ p. 292

Chap. XV. _Of the ~Nestorians~._ p. 294

Chap. XVI. _Of the ~Jacobites~ call’d ~Golti~._ p. 296

Chap. XVII. _Of the ~Abyssins~, Priest ~John~, call’d ~Lederwick~, subject unto the King of the ~Moors~._ p. 297

Chap. XVIII. _Of the ~Maronites~._ p. 300

Chap. XIX. _Of the ~Latinists~ or ~Papists~._ p. 301

Chap. XX. _Of the Knights of the Temple of ~Jerusalem~, the Order of the ~Johannites~._ p. 304

Chap. XXI. _A short description of some places, hills, valleys, ~&c.~ that lie near and about ~Jerusalem~. Of the mount of ~Olives~, and it’s holy places._ p. 309

Chap. XXII. _Of ~Bethlehem~, the mountains of ~Judea~, and their famous places. Where also is made mention of my returning back from ~Jerusalem~ to ~Tripoli~._ p. 316

Chap. XXIII. _How I took ship at ~Tripolis~ in ~Syria~, and sailed back from thence to ~Venice~, and travell’d home again to my own relations at ~Augspurg~._ p. 327

VOL. II.

Chap. I. _Mr ~Belon~’s remarks in the island of ~Creta~ or ~Candy~._ p. 341

Chap. II. _A description of mount ~Athos~, commonly call’d ~Monte Santo~, by Mr ~Belon~._ p. 345

Chap. III. _An account of a journey by land from mount ~Athos~ to ~Constantinople~, wherein the gold and silver mines of ~Macedonia~, together with many antiquities and natural rarities are described._ p. 349

Chap. IV. _The ways of fishing on the ~Propontis~, the ~Bosphorus~, and ~Hellespont~; as also of the fishes taken. By M. ~Belon~._ p. 353

Chap. V. _Of some beasts and mechanic trades at ~Constantinople~._ p. 354

_Mr ~Francis Vernon~’s letter, written to Mr ~Oldenburg~, ~Jan 10, 1675-6~._ p. 355

_Some plants observed by Sir ~George Wheeler~, in his Voyage to ~Greece~ and ~Asia minor~._ p. 364

_Historical observations relating to ~Constantinople~, by the reverend and learned ~Tho. Smith~, D.D. Fellow of ~Magd. College Oxon.~ and of the ~Royal Society~._ p. 368

_An account of the city of ~Prusa~ in ~Bithynia~, and a continuation of the historical observations relating to ~Constantinople~._ p. 380

_An account of the latitude of ~Constantinople~ and ~Rhodes~; by the learned Mr ~John Greaves~._ p. 404

Chap. VI. _Some observations made in a Voyage to ~Egypt~, by Mr ~Belon~._ p. 409

_More Observations made in ~Egypt~, by ~Guilandinus~, ~Alpinus~ and others_.

Chap. I. _Of the weather and seasons in ~Egypt~._ p. 411

Chap. II. _Of the meats and drinks of ~Egypt~._ p. 412

Chap. III. _Of the diseases and physic._ p. 414

_Of the Pyramids of ~Egypt~, by Mr ~Greaves~, Professor of Astronomy in the University of ~Oxford~. A description of the first Pyramid._ p. 417

_A description of the second Pyramid._ p. 436

_A description of the third Pyramid, out of Mr ~Belon~, and Mr ~Greaves~._ p. 439

_Of the rest of the Pyramids in the ~Libian~ desart._ p. 441

_In what manner the Pyramids were built._ p. 443

_Of the ~Pyramids~, ~Sphynx~, ~Mummies~, &c. by Father ~Vansleb~ and others._ p. 448

_Of the ~Sphynx~._ p. 452

_Of the wells where the ~Mummies~ are._ p. 453

_A description of an entire body of a ~Mummy~._ p. 457

_A letter from ~Dublin~ concerning the Porphyry pillars in ~Egypt~, by Dr ~Huntingdon~._ p. 461

_A journey from ~Grand Cairo~ to ~Mecca~._ p. 467

_Of the Aga sent to meet the Caravan upon their return._ p. 470

_Of ~Mecca~ and ~Medina~._ p. 472

_An extract of a journey through part of ~Arabia Felix~, from the copy in ~Ramusio~’s collection._ p. 475

_Some observations made by Sir ~Henry Middleton~, and other ~Englishmen~ in ~Arabia Felix~, &c._ p. 477

_Of the ways and roads between ~Egypt~ and ~Ethiopia~._ p. 479

_Of ~Ethiopia~: By ~Michael~ of ~Tripoli~, Embassador from the ~Habessine~ Emperor to the Grand Signior._ p. 481

_More Observations of ~Ethiopia~, by Father ~Lobo~, Father ~Alvarez~, Father ~Tellez~, and others; extracted from their ~Portuguese~ voyages._ p. 487

Dr _Leonhart Rauwolff_’s

TRAVELS

INTO THE

Eastern Countries.

In which is chiefly treated, how he got into _Syria_, and what strange things he there saw and observed.

PART. I.

CHAP. I.

_Which way I went first of all, from ~Augspurg~ to ~Marseilles~, and from thence shipped over the seas towards ~Tripoli~ of ~Syria~, situated in ~Phœnicia~._

I having always had a natural inclination, almost from my infancy, to travel into foreign Countries, but chiefly into the Eastern ones, which have been of old celebrated for fertility, which were cultivated by the most ancient people, and whose princes in former ages, have been the most potent monarchs of the world; not only to observe their lives, manners and customs, but chiefly to gain a clear and distinct knowledge of those delicate herbs, described by _Theophrastus_, _Dioscorides_, _Avicenna_, _Serapio_, &c. by viewing them in their proper and native places, partly that I might more exactly describe them, especially the most strange and rare; partly also, to provoke the Apothecaries to endeavour to procure those that are necessary for them to have in their shops: I strove always to put this my desire into execution, but was forced to defer it until, in the year of our Lord 1573, I found an opportunity, by my honour’d brother-in-law Mr _Melchior Manlick_, senior, which was very convenient. He received me presently, (having before a design to increase the number of them that were employ’d in his trade) and fitted me out for my voyage, that I might go with the first company that should travel for _Marseilles_, and then from thence farther in one of their ships to _Tripoli_, situated in that part of _Syria_ which is call’d _Phœnicia_.

After that my honour’d friend, Mr _Frederick Rentzen_, of that same city, was come to me, we set out the _18th_ of _May_, _Anno 1573_, from _Augspurg_ towards _Lindaw_, designing to go through _Piedmont_ to _Milan_ and _Nissa_, and so farther: The same day we came to _Mindelheim_, a very pleasant town with a princely castle, situated upon the _Mindel_, then belonging to the baron of _Frundsberg_.

The _19th_ at noon we came to _Memmingen_, a very pleasant city of the empire, and at night to _Leutkirch_.

The _20th_ we rode thorough _Wangen_, another imperial city, situated in _Algaw_, where they drove a very good trade with fine ticking and linnen cloth; about noon we arrived at _Lindaw_, an imperial city situated in the _Boden_ sea, where there is a very great depository or staple of all sorts of commodities or merchandizes: some have call’d this the _German Venice_, because it is in like manner situated in water, and hath also a great trade. After dinner we crossed the lake towards _Fuzach_, a village not far from _Bregentz_, towards the _Rhine_.

The _21st_ about breakfast-time we came to _Veldkirch_, a very pleasant town, situated upon the _Yll_, belonging now to the house of _Austria_, but formerly to the counts of _Montfort_. By the way I saw several fine plants, _viz._ _Saxifraga Aurea_, _Caryophyllata Alpina_, a fine sort of _Bellis-major_, _Christa galli_ with white flowers, and _Auricula Ursi_ with brown flowers, _&c._ At night we came to _Mayenfeld_, belonging to the _Grawpunters_, upon the _Rhine_, which runs by the town, and there runs into it a river call’d _Camingen_, which slides down between high rocks, where the famous warm bath (from an adjacent abby, call’d _Pfeffers_) riseth, which may be numbered amongst the wonderful waters, in regard of it’s admirable operation in strengthening lame and contracted members, and hath this property beyond other baths, that it loseth itself from _October_ till _May_, and then it cometh on again powerfully.

The _22d_ we came at night to _Chur_, a very ancient city, where also is a deposition of Goods that are brought thither from _Germany_ by pack-horses over the mountains. A seat of that Bishop lyeth half an hour’s going from the _Rhine_, wherefore this bishopric is accounted the chief of all the bishoprics of the _Rhine_, or the _Pfaffen gaste_, call’d by others, because it is situated near the first beginning of the _Rhine_, according to the ancient proverb: _Costentz_ the biggest, _Basil_ the pleasantest, _Strasburg_ the noblest, _Spires_ the devoutest, _Worms_ the poorest, _Mentz_ the worthiest, _Trier_ the ancientest, and _Collen_ the richest.

The _23d_ we rode to _Tusis_, an ancient village belonging to the _Grawpunters_, the name whereof shews it’s original, for the _Rhetians_ are descended from the _Tuscans_, who under the conduct of one _Rhætus_ of old took possession of those countries; not far off upon a high mountain is still situated a ruin’d castle, call’d _Realt_, or which is righter, _Rhœtia alta_, deriv’d also from the _Rhetians_.

The _24th_ at noon we came by the _Splewer-hill_ into a village call’d _Splugi_, not far from the beginning, head, or sourse of the _Rhine_: Thence we passed over the hill, and came at night to a little village call’d _Gampolschin_, situated in a valley of the same name, where we rested.

Monday the _25th_ at noon we came to _Clæven_, or _Clavenna_, a very ancient town, belonging to the _Bunts_, which had anciently a strong castle, which was demolished by the _Grawpunters_ themselves, _Anno 1524_, after it was cunningly taken from them by _Castel de Maess_ and _John Jacob de Medicis_, in which bustle the town was also ruin’d, for the gates and walls were beaten down, that no enemy might after that lodge himself there again. From _Clæven_ we went to _Riva_ upon the _Lago di como_, where the water _Addua_ runs into the lake, and yet notwithstanding adds no water to it, nor taketh any from it, but only runs strait through it; and so doth the _Rhine_ through the lake call’d the _Boden-Sea_: From thence we travell’d to _Gera_ upon the same lake, where we lay all night. On the bank I saw some purple-colour’d lillies, a sort of _Lilium Saracenicum_ with small leaves, and in the old walls the _Cymbalaria_.

The _26th_ about noon we came to _Como_, a very glorious and pleasant city, from whence the lake hath it’s name to this day. From thence we rode the same night to _Milan_, the metropolis of that dukedom. What strange passages have been committed in this town before it was possessed by the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth, after the decease of the last duke _Francis Sfortia_, is related sufficiently in History.

The _27th_ we rode through _Binasco_, a pleasant village, where the very learned and famous _Andreas Alciatus_, Doctor in Law, and Professor of several Universities in _France_ and _Italy_, hath built a very glorious palace; and in the evening passing by the great park (in which in the year 1525, was fought that bloody battel between _Francis_ King of _France_, and the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth’s officers, in which the King himself was made prisoner, and many of his men kill’d) the same night arrived at _Pavia_, an ancient glorious city, situated on the river _Tesin_, where the Kings of the _Longobards_ did formerly keep their courts, and afterwards _Charles the Great_, the first _German_ Emperor, did institute an University, which has brought up many eminent and learned men since.

The _28th_ departing from _Pavia_, we passed the River _Padus_, or _Eridanus_, which is believed to be the biggest river in _Italy_, to _Vogera_, a pleasant village, situated on the river _Stafora_, there we began to take post, and had eighteen stages to _Nissa_: By noon we arrived at _Dertona_, a pretty town, yet not very full of people, by reason of the many wars and intestine quarrels in which it was engaged, belonging to the Duke of _Milan_. In this country I found whole acres sown with _Wood_, and there I saw the _White Poplar_, also _Millefolium flore luteo_, and farther upon the hill _Brotho_ the _Cineraria_, and the _Stœchas Citrina_, _Cotinus Plinii_, and many more fine plants. At night we came to _Alexandria della Paglia_, that is to say, _of Chaff_. When heavy and long wars did arise between the Emperor _Frederick_ the first, and the towns of _Lombardy_, by instigation of Pope _Alexander_ the third, the towns of _Lombardy_ did agree to compile this city out of several villages in the year 1168, and did fortify it the year next ensuing, and call’d it, after the Pope’s name, _Alexandria_; but the _Imperialists_ call’d it _Alexandria of Straw_, which name it doth retain to this day; yet we did not stay there, but rode the same night to _Bellizona_, a strong place, which perhaps formerly had it’s own princes, which did sell it from _Uri_ and his relations, because they could not defend it from the Duke of _Milan_ in the year 1422, and yet it cost a great deal of blood, until the _Switzers_ got it into safe possession in the year 1500.

The _29th_ at noon we came to _Ast_, a considerable city belonging to the dukedom of _Milan_, where the King of _Spain_ keeps a garrison, which had just then received the new Governour of _Milan_, and conducted him into the city. Not far off lieth _Carmagnola_, belonging to the King of _France_, and to the Marquisate of _Saluzo_, where is kept a _French_ garrison, as at _Moncalier_, which is very near it, the Duke of _Savoy_ hath a garrison; and so garrisons of three eminent princes lie very near one another. That night we lodged in a pitiful village call’d _Baieron_.

The _30th_ we rode thro’ _Racones_ and _Savigliano_, two small villages, and at night came to _Coni_.