Part 18

Soon after noon a great way off before us, appear’d a great market-town, _Carcuschey_, where we arrived by night, and fix’d our camp without and pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by _Armenians_, which we could presently find by the alteration of the language and their habit. They received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had staid with them till night, and refresh’d ourselves and our beasts, we broke up again immediately and travell’d all night, which was so dark, that we heard several caravans that met us, but could not see them, much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break of day we came to another much larger river, by the inhabitants call’d _Kling_, if I do not mistake, and by _Ptolomy_, _Licus_, which hindred us very much in our day’s journey; for the river being very broad, at least a long mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right ford, and not without great danger, which the _Curters_ knew very well, so that we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our company that had often forded that river formerly, we ventured it, went in, and got over, thanks be to God, very safe, only one ass which went over below us, where the stream went stronger, was drown’d, so that we arriv’d very early on the seventh of _January_, to the _Tygris_ again, and went into the famous city _Mossel_, that lieth on this side of the river, over a bridge made of boats. This is situated in the country of the _Curters_, and so we were forced still to keep our interpreter. It belongeth to the _Turkish_ Emperor, as do all the rest hereabouts. There are some very good buildings and streets in it, and it is pretty large; but very ill provided with walls and ditches, as I did observe from the top of our camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw just without the town a little hill, that was almost quite dug through, and inhabited by poor people, where I saw them several times creep in and out as pismires in ant-hills. In this place and thereabouts stood formerly the potent town of _Nineveh_, built by _Ashur_, which was the metropolis of _Assyria_, under the Monarch of the first monarchy, to the time of _Sennacherib_ and his sons, and was about three days journey in length. So we read that the Prophet _Jonas_, when at the command of God, he preach’d repentance to them, did go into it one day’s journey, which the people did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their lives, but they did not long remain penitent, but turn’d to their former iniquity again, wherefore their destruction and ruin was prognosticated to them by the Prophets _Nahum_ and _Zephania_, and also by the pious _Tobias_, that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was it re-built again afterwards, and did suffer very much upon changes of governments, until at length _Tamerlane_ came and took it by storm, burnt it, and reduced it to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew Beans and _Colocasia_, _&c._ So that at this time there is nothing of any antiquities to be seen as in old _Babylon_, save only the fort that lieth upon the hill, and some few villages, which as the inhabitants say, did also belong to it in former days. This town lieth on the confines of _Armenia_, in a large plain, where they sow the greatest part of their corn, on the other side of the river; for on this side in _Mesopotamia_ it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle of the desarts of _Arabia_. Yet there is a very large deposition of merchandizes, because of the river; wherefore several goods and fruits are brought thither from the adjacent countries, both by land and water, to ship them for _Bagdat_. Among the rest I saw abundance of small and great Turpentine-nuts, by the inhabitants call’d, as above-said, _Bont-quiber_ and _Sougier_; and also another sort of Manna as big as a double fist, which is very common here, and is brought from _Armenia_, as they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer, and not so sweet as that of _Calabria_, yet very good and pleasant to eat. Within it are several red grains, so small that one taketh no notice of them when one eats it. It looseneth the body very well, but not so much as ours, wherefore the inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the morning, as the country-men on the mountains of _Algaw_ eat cheese. But whether the _Arabians_ make mention thereof, if it be not the _Manna Alhagiezi_, whereof _Avicenna_ in his second book, the second treatise, and the 758th chapter maketh mention, I know not neither what it is to be reputed. The town _Mossel_, is as abovesaid, for the greatest part inhabited by _Nestorians_, which pretend to be Christians, but in reality they are worse than any other nations whatsoever, for they do almost nothing else, but rob on the high-ways, and fall upon travellers and kill them: therefore being that the roads chiefly to _Zibin_ (to which we had five days journey, and for the most part through sandy wildernesses) are very dangerous, we staid some days longer, expecting more company that we might go the surer.

CHAP. X.

_Which way we went through ~Mesopotamia~ by the way of ~Zibin~ and ~Orpha~, to ~Bir~, not without a great deal of danger; and afterwards how we passed the great river ~Euphrates~, and came at last into ~Syria~ by ~Nisib~, to the famous town of ~Aleppo~._

After our journey had been deferr’d for four days, we broke up on the eleventh of _January_ several hundred strong, and went on for the whole day without eating, with all speed until the sun-set at night, when we encamp’d on an ascent near a small village, to keep our beasts and goods safe, and to refresh ourselves and them. We watch’d all night long, and went continually three and three together, round about our camp by turns.

The next day we proceeded on again in our journey with all speed, rather for a good fountain or spring’s sake, as they do in these countries in the vast desarts, than to reach a good inn, where we arrived late at night, and encamp’d near it, to stay all night to rest. A little after when we were at supper, some of the _Curters_ came to us into our camp, spoke to us kindly, and ask’d us whether we did want any thing that they could help us to, but we soon perceived them to be spies, that were sent by their companions, to see what strength we were of. But when they perceived that we were not pleased with them, they did not stay but went away, and we composed ourselves to rest, but kept a good guard as we had done the night before. About midnight when we were in our first sleep, our watch-men perceived a great number of the _Curters_ to approach, wherefore they awak’d us with a great shouting to alarm us the sooner, and to bring us into good order, and to frighten our enemies, and to drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haste they could up to us, and that so near that we could see them, although it was dark, before our camp, by their heads. But when they found us in a good order and condition to oppose them, and did hear that our gunners and archers, which were ready to let fly at them, call’d with a loud voice to them, _tahal, tahal Harami_, that is, come hither, come hither you thieves, _&c._ they halted for a little while and were so afraid of us, that they turn’d their backs and run away. Afterwards when we fear’d nor expected their assault any more, they came quickly again a second time, in a far greater number than before. They led before them one camel and several horses, which in the dark we could only discern by their heads looking against the sky, in their hands, without doubt, that we might look upon them as travellers, or else that we might not be able to discern their number. But notwithstanding all this their first assault was still in fresh memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew soon up in our former order again, wherein I was the left hand man in the first rank again, with my scymeter drawn, and had before armed my breast with several sheets of paper, that I had brought with me to dry my plants in, expecting their assault every moment. But when they made a halt again, fearing their skin as much as we did ours, and did neither shout nor move up towards us, one of ours provok’d them, and did shoot at the camel, and did hit it so that it gave a sign thereof, but the rest forbore to fire. So they staid a little while, and then went off a second time.

So we kept awake all the rest of the night, and kept a good watch, and went on our journey again early the next morning about break of the day; and came again to wide and dry heaths, where we saw neither men nor beasts, and so we went on till noon, where we encamp’d in a large place, which was surrounded with walls and ditches pretty well, just like unto a fortress, whereof there are several in these dangerous places to be seen. When we staid there, two _Curters_ came again to us into our camp, and spoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the toll that was due there, it being their place: But our Merchants soon perceived, that they were not in a right cause, wherefore they would allow them nothing, which put these two into such a passion, that they drew their swords, and would have at us; but our friends did not stay idle neither, but took their swords away, and laid on with dry blows at them, and so flung them out of our camp. After this hubbub was over we dined, and that the rather that we might not be too much weaken’d by our hard travelling, and so be the less able to resist these robbers, for want of strength if they should fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before night, chiefly in great desarts, for there we used to get up presently after midnight, and travel all day long with all speed without eating, which I had often experimented before; wherefore I used to provide myself always with bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either stay behind or go before; for no body eats openly by the way in the sight of others, except he has a mind to run a hazard, because that most of them are very hungry, and so eager at it, that they will assault one another for it, and take it away from their very mouths. After we had refresh’d ourselves and fed our beasts, which useth to be done also but once a day, we broke up with our caravan, and went on again. We quickly saw some mountains before us, where, when we approach’d them towards the evening, there appear’d sometimes, on a high one, that before the rest lieth nearer to the plain, some of them, so that we might very well presume, that there was more of them behind in _Ambuscado_, which also proved very true: For no sooner were we pass’d it, but before we went up the hill, they came out from behind the mountain, in great troops on horseback, which immediately drew up into order in the fields, in two squadrons, three and three in a rank, to the number of about three hundred, almost as many as we were. They exercised their horses, which were very lank, very swiftly, turn’d sometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and come at length to us within a bow’s shot. They had most of them darts, which they play’d withal in their full speed, sometimes holding it downwards as if they would run through a deer, which was a pleasant but very dangerous sight to us. When they shew’d themselves so as if they would fall upon us instantly, we drew our caravan close together, in order to resist them. Wherefore we stood still, and tied our beasts together, and bound the fore-feet of each of them, that they could not stir; behind them stood our mockery, with their bows, and all those that were not well provided with arms and horses, either to shoot at the enemy, or else in case of necessity, if they should come too near us, to sally out, and cut off their horses with our scymeters. Near unto us our horses were drawn up into a troop, ready for their assault, to venture their success. After a whole hours delay we sent at length two of our company to them, and they sent also two of theirs to meet them to parley together; but which way they made up an agreement I know not, but they prevailed so much with them, that soon after they left us, and rode away, and we went on in our journey. After this we kept our caravan, (that is so much to say as a great many people, with loaden camels, asses, and horses) in far better order than we had done before, and came that same day a good way, to a small village, where we encamped and stay’d all night. We found no wood thereabouts, wherefore we made shift with bread instead of other victuals, and were very glad, we had it. In the mean time the inhabitants came to us, to gather the dung of our beasts as they do in several other places, chiefly in the desarts of _Arabia_, to burn it instead of wood, which they do after the following manner.

They make in their tents or houses a hole about a foot and half deep, wherein they put their earthen pipkins or pots, with the meat in them closed up, so that they are in the half above the middle, three fourth parts thereof they lay about with stones, and the fourth part is left open, through which they fling in their dry’d dung, and also sometimes small twigs and straws, when they can have them, which burn immediately and give so great a heat, that the pot groweth so hot as if it stood in the middle of a lighted coal-heap, so that they boil their meat with a little fire, quicker than we do ours with a great one on our hearths; so that these poor people must make very hard shift, and do sometimes as the _Israelites_ did in the siege of _Jerusalem_, where they also in their greatest necessity did boil their meat with dung of men and beasts, as you may read in the 4th chapter of _Ezekiel_. This night, and several others before, we passed more with watching than with sleeping, so that sometimes we contemplated the constellations of the skies, which are very much observed by these nations, but chiefly by the _Arabians_, which lodge always in the open air, and have no shelter, so that by the stars they know the hour of the night, and when it is time for them to break up. They care not for beds, but rather have cloaks or tapestry wherein they wrap themselves up and keep themselves warm, so that no frost nor rain, nor dew can hurt them.

The next morning we broke up (that we might not expose ourselves any farther) only after day-light, and travelled all day long without any molestation or hinderance a long way after several rough mountains: and also the next day through sandy desarts, which were deep and hindred our going on very much. When it began to be night, our beasts were almost ready to lie down under their burthens in the sand, which was very tiresome to us, and that the rather, because we saw the town _Zibin_ far off before us, at four miles distance, but at length we got out of this bad road, into green meadows, to very clear springs, which run over in several places to water them: so that we began to make more speed, and came the same night yet very late into the town. It is a fine place subject unto the _Turkish_ Emperor not very big, lying on ascent, very well surrounded and fortified with walls and ditches. It is full of conduits or springs, but chiefly in the great _Camp_, where we rested for five days to stay for more company. There live abundance of _Armenians_ in it, for it lieth in the confines of the greater _Armenia_, and so we were no more in so great danger as we were in the country of the _Curters_. During my staying there, the abovementioned rich _Armenian_ Merchant, and also an eminent _Turkish_ gentleman (which were very kind to me upon the road) desired me several times (having heard from the _Jews_ that I was a Physician) that I would be pleased to go along with them to _Carahemit_, which town was four days distant at the other side of the _Tygris_, to cure some of their relations that were not well, they proffered me good entertainment, and to recommend me to the young Bashaw son of _Mahomet_ Bashaw, who was also sick at that time, and to bring me into good business; which I would have done with all my heart, and nothing could have pleased me better, than to have served the _Armenian_ for his kindness. Yet because I was sent for to come to _Aleppo_, and could not but be as good as my word, wherein I had also no small interest, I was obliged to leave that journey, and to strive with all speed and diligence to get thither. Now as this Bashaw is among the rest (except the Visir-Bashaws, whereof there are four or five, which are always at court about the _Turkish_ Emperor, as being his Privy Council) the chiefest in _Turky_, so he hath larger and more fruitful territories than he of _Bagdet_, or any other, to govern, _viz._ _Assyria_, _Mesopotamia_, and a large part of the greater _Armenia_, and of the province of the _Curters_, _&c._ all which border upon the dominions of the Sophi King of _Persia_.

After we had refreshed our selves during this time, very well, and other companies had joined us, we broke up on the 20th towards night, and went away. By the way we saw several plough’d fields and villages, and we could speak better with the people, for they understood the _Armenian_, _Turkish_, or _Arabian_ languages, which are generally used in these countries. So our travels went on with great speed, so that we reached on the 21st late, the town of _Hochan_, where the _Jews_ rested and kept their Sabbath. Here we received the news that _Solyman_ the _Turkish_ Emperor was deceased.

The 23d we got up early again, and went the next way to _Orpha_, another town, to which we had five days journey. From thence, the nearer we came to the mount _Tauri_, which separateth _Armenia_ from _Mesopotamia_, towards the south, the worse grew the roads, which we found very sufficiently the next day, for when we came farther into the mountains, the ways were so full of stones that we were hindered very much. Going thus on, after it had snowed a little, which I have never seen but twice in these countries, it happened, that one of the _Jews_ horses which was empty, was frightened at something, and flung itself over and over. The _Jew_ hearing this noise, looked back, and seeing me stand by it, he grew angry with me, as if I had done it, and began to handle his bow and arrows to shoot at me, when I found him in earnest, and remembered how I lost my wine in the ship, when we went down the river, I did not delay, but went to hinder him, took him by his leg, and flung him off his horse, before he could take his aim at me; so we fell a boxing one another so long, until at length I tripped up his heels. When the other two saw that we spoiled thus the figure of the snow, and that I was too hard for him, and had given him several hard blows, they came immediately to separate us, and to make peace again between us; I seeing that they did not come to wrong me, and also considering that we were to travel together still farther, took their council, and was friends with him again, and so we went on in our way. At night we came to another village again, in a narrow valley lying at the bottom of a great ascent, near which we found a great stable wherein we went; this was cut quite into the hill, and so was that wherein we loged the night before, so that you could see nothing of if, but only the entrance, for they are commonly so in these hilly countries under ground, that the caravans may safely rest there and defend themselves from cold in the winter. This stable (being 25 paces long and 20 broad, and all through equally high) was cut out of a rock. About midnight, when we were in our first sleep, one of the Grand Signior’s Chiaus, or Chamber messengers, knocked at the door of the stable, who was come back from _Bagdet_ in six days to this place, to look about for some fresh horses, because he had tired his own, and could not have others by the way, as in our country where posts are ordered. So he went in, took away from one Mockeri or Carrier, three pack horses, and two more from the _Jew_, that I had contention with before, for these messengers of the chamber have great privileges, and in case of necessity, where-ever they see horses in city or country, they may take them leaving theirs in the room thereof: They value one no more than another, except Merchants and strangers, whom they excuse before others to incourage trade; those that they come to, must deliver up their horses without any reluctancy, except they have a mind to be soundly bang’d, as one of our friends was that did not open the gates immediately, or else to fare worse. When this Chiaus believed he had got very good horses, he soon found his mistake, for the _Jew_’s horses had galled backs, wherefore he let him have them again for a small recompence, which was a child’s coat made of delicate _Indian_ stuff. When our journey was thus stopp’d, chiefly because of the Mockeri, or Carrier, until he could procure himself other horses in the room thereof, at least for that day; we rose the earlier the next day, and traversed several rough mountains, and went through narrow vallies that day, until at night we came to a village inhabited by _Armenians_. These are good hearted Christians, which have great compassion on their fellow Christians, and love to entertain and to be kind to strangers, which I have very often experienced, but chiefly in this village, where one of the _Armenians_ took me and the _Jews_ into his house, and would fain have kept us also the next day. Being at leisure, I would fain have conferred and discoursed with him concerning our Christian faith, and so was he willing; but being that we could not understand one another, and the _Jews_ were in this case by no means proper interpreters, we were forced to have patience by silence, and to look at one another. About that time they kept Lent, which I could perceive by their small sort of diet, for they did eat nothing but leguminous food and bread and water. After he had set before us some boiled eggs at night, and I being hungry, fell on them, not imagining that they kept such strictness and difference in their diet, he admired that I did not refuse to eat the eggs, and asked me by one of the _Jews_, whether I did not know that it was not allowed to Christians to eat eggs and the like victuals in Lent; at this I would fain have answered him, that it became Christians to keep Lent rather with soberness and abstinency, than with distinctions and differences of foods. But I not understanding the language, only answered him briefly, that our Lent was not yet begun, nor would until three weeks hence begin, which did content him presently.

The 28th we went on our journey again, and came right among the high mountains, which were very rough, and full of bushes; we got out of them before night, and lodged our selves in the next village, which lieth on an ascent in the plain, where we also staid the next day being the Sabbath. By the way, when the _Jews_ were in fear of having their horses taken away, as was done some days before, they often gave them to me to lead them, as if they were mine, hoping to carry them off the easier, so that although they were my guides, yet I was their safe-guard.