Part 17

After he had said this, he began to talk farther to me concerning religion, and chiefly of the articles of our Christian faith; and made me immediately (when he began to be sensible that I was of the same) so fine a confession of his Christian faith, so plainly and with such grounds of scripture, that I was astonished, for I could never have believed I could have met with the fellow of him in these countries. So he began to have a great love for me, and desired me to go along with him, and to stay with him in his house, until I had an opportunity to go farther, or that I might make him a companion in his voyage into the _Indies_, that during those travels he would shew me all kindnesses he could; nay, be as careful of me, as if I were his own son. And after he understood that I was a Physician, he proferred of his own accord to recommend me to the _Bashaw_, who was then sick, and his very good friend, to be his Physician. But I having understood before, that others that had done the same, had been but very ill rewarded for the pains and care they had taken, and chiefly by those they did cure; I would not undertake it, fearing I should have the same measure, and instead of a reward have my liberty taken away from me, wherefore I thanked him for his kindness. Had it not been for this, I should have accepted of it, notwithstanding that they have no Apothecaries shops that are any thing provided, but I must have bought the ingredients from one shop-keeper or other and so collected them from several places, for I could hardly find any thing by them, saving some strange sort of turpentine nuts, whereof they have abundance, and they are as good, as _Pistachios_; wherefore the inhabitants keep them by them, and eat them as we eat small nuts in our country. I have eaten several of them, and found them of a saltish taste and of a drying quality. These are called by the _Arabians_, _Botn_, and by the _Persians_, _Terbaick_. I have chiefly seen two kinds of them, the greater and the less, and so the _Arabians_ distinguish them into _Botnquibir_ and _Sougier_. The bigger is in shape pretty like unto the pistach nut, only it is a little rounder and shorter; the lesser is with it’s hard shell of the bigness of a pea, and are shaped like unto an hart, or the _Dora_, that is, the _Indian-Hart_. A great many of them grow in _Agemia_, _Persia_, _Mesopotamia_ and _Armenia_, &c. and grow together in clusters like Grapes as the _Pistachios_ do, or rather the Berries of our _Turpentine-Trees_, for which they ought to be taken; chiefly, because the trees whereon they grow, are in their long leaves pretty like unto the _Turpentine-Tree_ whereby they are easily distinguished from the _Pistachio-Tree_ which hath roundish ones. This being so, I take the little one for the _Bell_, and the great one for the _Fael_ of _Serapio_, _Avicenna_ and _Rhasis_, which (as authors say) grow chiefly in the _Indies_: And this the rather, because authors attribute the same virtue and operation to them. So may according to this, chiefly the great nuts _Fael_ be taken for the fruit of the _Indian Turpentine-Tree_, whereof _Theophrastus_ in his fourth book and chapter five, maketh mention; all which would be too tedious to be related here at large. Besides these nuts, the before-mentioned authors (chiefly _Serapio_ in his 251st chapter) makes still mention of another sort of fruit, called by him _Sel_, and by _Avicenna_, _Scal_, which are not in hard shells, but as I saw them, quite bare, of the bigness of a _Pistachio_-nut, and of the colour of the kernel of our _Wall-nut_; they have a pretty bitterish taste, and sensibly sharp. I did find none of them in these parts by the shop-keepers, but had it only after that in the monastery of the _Minorites_ in _Jerusalem_, of one of their order, who told me also that they did grow in these countries. Of coloquints, of white gourd apples, still known to the people by the old name _Handhal_, there grow so many hereabout, that they send them to _Aleppo_, and from thence into our countries; and also the delicate round _Cyperus_ root, by the inhabitants called _Soëdt_, whereof one may find great quantities growing in mossy and wet grounds. I did also find by the shop-keepers, the white seed of _Machaleb_, which are in hard shells, which are long and pointed, and covered without with a tender skin, like unto the _Pistachio_-nut. A great quantity of them are carried from thence into _Syria_, and used to perfume soap-balls. The trees whereon they grow I did not see, yet, as I am informed, they grow hereabouts, but chiefly on the mountains that are by the way to _Persia_. They are still to this day by the inhabitants, as by _Serapio_, call’d _Nahandt_. But although there are several sorts of them, yet they all boil them (after they have been steep’d for some hours in water, to get off the thin shells, as we do with Almonds) in milk or wine into a pap, and put sugar or honey to it, chiefly to the white ones to take away their bitterness. I found farther a strange gum in great pieces, somewhat like unto Frankincense, or _Ammoniacum_, which the inhabitants chew all day long instead of _Mastich_, and they attribute the same virtues to it. Wherefore great quantities thereof are brought thither (chiefly from _Persia_) which they call _Taxa_, as I am informed from the Tree _Tax_, which are very like unto _Cypresses_ in shew and bigness, only their roots are not so long, wherefore they are the easier over-turned by the wind. According to this, I remember of the Trees _Thuja_, whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention in book v. chap. 5. and of _Thya_ of _Pliny_. I also saw without the _Batzars_ or Exchanges, very high and big _Caper-trees_; and here and there in the fields a peculiar sort of red-grass, like unto that of _Babylon_, according to the description of _Dioscorides_, and hath still retained it’s ancient _Arabian_ name _Negil_ among the inhabitants. This hath long fibrous and yellowish roots, with many joynts, and puts out by them yearly several buds, which grow into hard leaves, which are long and pointed, and at each side very sharp and cutting, like unto them of the red-grass; between them come out small stalks or holms, each whereof hath a peculiar ear at the top coming out of it’s grass sheath, which is long, thin, and it’s seeds grow in two rows, between small leaves, like unto the wild _Galengal_. This doth not only grow hereabouts, but also in several other places and provinces, where the ground is sandy, as _Susiana_, _Persia_, &c. in great quantity, and because it is by reason of it’s sharpness and cutting, very pernicious to beasts, as to bullocks, horses, _&c._ so that they die of it, therefore they have or keep the fewer of them, but instead thereof they keep buffles (which can feed upon it easier than other beasts) to eat this grass, which maketh the buffle very cheap in these countries, for I have seen one buy three of them for eight ducats (_which is in our money about 48 Shillings_) that was bigger than an _Hungarian_ bullock. Thus much I had to relate of _Bagdat_, it’s situation, trade, and strange plants, so much as I could find and see at that improper time.

Being that I expected daily company to go with me to _Aleppo_ again, by the way of several towns, and not straight through the sandy wildernesses, a _Persian_ that I got acquainted withal in the mean while did inform me, that the Sophi, King of _Persia_, had several unicorns at _Samarcand_, which he kept there; and also in two islands _Alc_ and _Tylos_, which lay from _Samarcand_ nine days journey farther towards the east, near _Spaam_, some _Griffins_ (by them called _Alera_) which were sent him out of _Africa_ from _Prester-John_. They are a great deal bigger and higher, have a red coloured head, a bearded bill, and a neck over-grown with feathers, a thick body, black wings like unto an eagle, and a long tail like a lion, and feet like a dragon, they are very eager for flesh; while they are yet young, the King taketh them along with him, and goeth often thither for sport and pleasures sake; but as they grow up and strong, he hath them chained about their necks very strongly. I did believe this the sooner[3], because he could also tell me what trees and fruit grow there, and chiefly those whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention, and out of him _Pliny_. He also gave me an account besides these of others that grow out of _Persia_ in several places, as of the tree _Palla_, which _Theophrastus_ and _Pliny_ mention, which the wise men did eat in the eastern countries, and of the _Musa_ of the _Arabians_, whereof the former bear delicate sweet-tasted, and very wholesome fruit, by them called _Wac_, which are round, reddish, and as big as the _Indian_ Melons. But whether this be the noble fruit _Mangas_, (whereof _Clusius_ maketh mention in his _History_ of _Indian Plants_, which for goodness sake is carried over sea into _Persia_) I leave to the learned to decide. But the _Musa_ (which is as aforesaid, also common in _Syria_) beareth a great deal smaller fruit, which is smooth, yellowish, and bended almost like unto citruls in shape. These are also of a sweetish taste, and therefore the pleasanter to eat; but are very unwholesome, so that _Alexander_ the Great was forced to forbid his soldiers to eat of them. The same _Persian_, did also inform me of the poisonous fruit _Persea_, which is still known to them by the name of _Sepha_; which they esteem very little; and also the _Peaches_ (called _Het_) which are not so poisonous (as some say) as the above-mentioned; for they esteem the kernels thereof to be good, wholesome physic. But yet that they are not esteemed by them, the chief reason is, that they perswade themselves, that _Nimrod_ (who was a great Magician or Necromancer) poisoned them by his black-art, and that since that time, they could not be eaten; wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since: This I thought convenient to mention, rather for the sake of those, that have a mind to travel, that if one or more of them should go into these countries, they might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things.

CHAP. IX.

_Which way I came in my return from ~Bagdat~ through ~Assyria~, the confines of ~Persia~, and the province of the ~Curters~, to the town ~Carcuch~, ~Capril~, &c. and at length to the river ~Tygris~, to ~Mossel~, that famous town, which was formerly call’d ~Nineveh~._

When hinder’d in my travels, for several weighty reasons, I was forced to go back again; I look’d up my goods, as I was advised by my good friend the Christian, whereof I made mention here before, and fitted myself for my journey. I got for my companions three Jews, one whereof came down the _Euphrates_ with me, the others came from _Ormutz_, for I could get no others, to travel with me to _Aleppo_. We set out on the sixteenth of _December_ in the year 1574, for _Carcuch_ distant six days journey, in the confines of _Media_, on the other side of the river _Tygris_, which is still call’d by them in their language _Hidekel_. By the way we first saw some well-till’d fields, and above us on the river _Tygris_ some villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a country that had plenty of corn, must and honey, _&c._ as it was commended by the Arch-koob-bearer of the King of _Assyria_, and compared even with the Land of Promise, but the farther we went, the greater grew the wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all night in the fields.

The next morning there appeared a great way off more little villages belonging to the King of _Persia_: But we went on through the desarts, and my fellow-travellers told me that they extend themselves to _Persia_ and _Media_, where we lost our way, and came in the evening into a bog which hindered us so much, that I, because their Sabbath began, whereon according to their laws they must not travel, was forced to stay there with them all night long in it, and also the next day, in great showers of rain, not without great inconveniency and trouble. During our staying there I look’d about me for some plants; but found none, because they did but first begin to sprout; but in the moist places some wild Galengal with great round roots, by the inhabitants call’d _Soëdt_, and by both _Latins_ and _Grecians_, _Cyperus_.

The nineteenth day, after we were not without trouble, got out of the mire, our way extended itself still farther thro’ desolate places and desarts. I thought of _Julian_ that impious _Roman_ Emperor, and of his army, which when it went against the _Persians_, and was very numerous, over the river _Tygris_ near to _Ctesiphon_, he was by an ancient _Persian_ that was a prisoner, decoy’d into these desarts, where he was beaten and routed by the _Persians_. In this great fight when the Emperor himself was mortally wounded, he took up, as _Nicephorus_ and _Eusebius_ say, a handful of blood and flung into the air, yielded the victory and said, Then _Galilean_ (so he call’d Christ, in whom he at first believed, and afterwards deny’d and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquer’d me. After we had lived for several days very hardly in the desarts, and spent our time in misery, we came on the twentieth by _Scherb_, a village over an ascent, into another more fruitful and well till’d country, situated on the confines of _Persia_, and for the most part inhabited by them, which we could conjecture by the common language. Now, though travelling through the confines uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet, I thank God, we met with none, so that we without any stop or hindrance reach’d that night, the twenty first of _December_, to _Schilb_, a curious village, where we rested all night and refresh’d ourselves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful vallies, but I found nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of ploughing time) that was worthy to be mention’d, for the plants did but just begin to sprout; we had by the way several villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy provision. The twenty third at night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred eggs for two pence.

The next day we got up early again, and saw before us the high mountain _Tauri_, all covered with snow (which extended itself a great way from north and west to the eastward) at a great distance. We went on a-pace, and advanced to _Tauk_ early in good time, and before their Sabbath began again. This town is not very strong and lieth on a plain. We went into a camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when it began to grow dark, they desired of me to light a candle. I remembred then immediately, that they could not do it themselves, being forbid by law, as you may find in the thirty fifth chapter of _Exodus_, where you may see that they must kindle no fire in any of their habitations, wherefore they furnish themselves the day before with all sorts of provisions and necessaries, that they may not need to do any labour on the Sabbath, and yet may not want. When these Jews say their prayers, they use the same ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the eastern parts do: For first they lift up their hands, then they bow down forwards with their whole body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the ground. These Jews bragged continually of their Patriarchs, and made mention of the laws; but of the ten commandments they knew nothing, wherefore I took an occasion to repeat them before them in the _Portugal_ language, which is very much spoke in the _Indies_, as well as I could, and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But when I began to speak of Christ and his offices, they burst out into such blasphemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my tongue.

Not far off from _Tauk_, we saw a very strong castle, near unto a wood, that is guarded by a _Turkish_ garrison: This is situated in the province of the _Curters_, which beginneth there, and lieth between _Media_ and _Mesopotamia_, all along the river _Tygris_ and reacheth to _Armenia_. These _Curters_, which are almost all _Nestorians_, speak a peculiar language, which was unknown to my fellow-travellers, wherefore they could not speak to them in the _Persian_ nor _Turkish_ language, which is spoke all along from _Bagdat_ through _Assyria_, in the confines of two potent monarchs, to that place. We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both languages, to be our interpreters through the country of the _Curters_. But whether this language did run upon that of their neighbours the _Medians_ or no, I could not certainly learn; but yet I was inform’d that the _Parthians_, _Medes_, and _Persians_, as peculiar nations, had their peculiar languages, as histories tell us, and we may also perfectly see in the _Acts of the Apostles_ the second chapter and the eight verse, where it is thus written: _And how hear we every man in our own tongue, wherein we were born? ~Parthians~ and ~Medes~, and ~Elamites~, and the dwellers in ~Mesopotamia~, &c._ All which people almost are subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of _Persia_. The before-mention’d _Curters_ were formerly call’d _Carduchi_, and afterwards also _Cardueni_ (as chiefly _Xenophon_ testifieth) have had their peculiar policy and government. But after many changes and wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the dominion of the _Turkish_ Emperor, to whom they are still subject to this day, and he hath every where his garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is farther to be said of them, chiefly concerning their religion, shall be hereafter mention’d, when I shall give you an account among other Christians, of those that live in the temple of mount _Calvaria_ in _Jerusalem_.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my companions, was over, we went on again, and came the twenty sixth of _December_ to _Carcuck_, a glorious fine city lying in a plain, in a very fertile country; at four miles distance is another that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travell’d, my companions having business in both of them, and so we spent two days in them before we were ready to go on again.

The twenty ninth we travell’d through large and dry heaths, and came at night to some tents, which were made of hair or hair-cloath, wrought out of goats and asses hair, and fix’d in such an order, that they made streets and allies like unto a market-town. In one of these we went to lodge with these poor people, (that were white _Moors_, and like unto the _Gypsuns_ in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long. But whether these people are subject to the _Turkish_ Emperor, or to the King of _Persia_, or to any other, I could not find out by their cloaths, because they all wear the same hereabouts, nor could I discern any thing by their language. To us came a little after some more travellers, so that we had hardly room to lie down in. These people were very diligent and busy to get us some meat and drink, for the husband went soon out of doors to gather dry boughs and stalks of herbs, which I could not at that time discern what they were, and brought them to us to boil or dress some meat with them. The woman was not idle neither, but brought us milk and eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also some dough for cakes, which were about a finger thick, and about the bigness of a trencher (as is usual to do in the wilderness, and sometimes in towns also) she laid them on hot stones and kept them a turning, and at length she flung the ashes and embers over them, and so bak’d them thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of baking cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so we find in Scripture mention made of bread bak’d among the ashes; the _Romans_ call’d it, _Panes Subcineritios_; and so we read in _Genesis_ the eighteenth chapter, of cakes made upon the hearth, which _Sarah_ made in haste when the three men came to see _Abraham_.

The thirtieth we went from thence, and about noon we came to a town call’d _Presta_, which is chiefly towards the river whereon it lieth, very well fortify’d, but what the inhabitants call that river, I do not remember, but according to it’s situation it must be that which _Ptolomy_ call’d _Gorgus_, which runs below into the _Tyger_. In this place they make floats, which although they are not very big, nor have much wood in them, yet they have abundance of bucks and goats skins blown up, hung or fixed underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may load the more upon them, and also because the river is rapid, that they may have the less fear or danger. On these floats they carry several sorts of merchandizes, but chiefly fruit, _viz._ Figs, Almonds, Cibebs, Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, _&c._ a great part whereof goeth farther into the _Indies_.

The last day of _December_ we travell’d on, and came through well till’d fields about night into the town _Harpel_, which is pretty large, but very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with walls, so that it might easily be taken without any great strength or loss; there we rested again the next day being the Sabbath, and on the same day fell New-Years-Day. In the mean time I understood that the _Turkish_ Sangiack did a few days ago condemn and put to execution eight great malefactors, which made it their business to rob and to commit murder up and down on the high-way, for there are a great many of these rogues in this province, chiefly on the borders of _Armenia_, which are very mountainous, and maketh travelling very dangerous. The relations and friends of these murderers and robbers did take this very ill, that the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good intelligence of this their intention, wherefore he went away _incognito_ for _Constantinople_, to complain to the _Turkish_ Emperor of this their unjust proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his escape, and found that he wanted money, which is very seldom, he took up from an _Armenian_ Merchant, that was very rich, and was arrived there to buy several merchandizes, chiefly Gauls, whereof grow many in these parts, 300 ducats, which put the Merchant into great danger; for when these rebellious people came to understand it, they took it very ill of him, and threaten’d him very much, so that he was forced to stay some days longer for more company, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the fifth of _January_ in a very handsome number, for the Merchant alone had about fifty camels and asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry to _Carahemit_, where he lived, and to send from thence to _Aleppo_, where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our country. So we travell’d all day long and also half the night, without eating or drinking, very fast, and began to rest about midnight. After we had for the remaining part of the night hardly refreshed our beasts and ourselves with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before day-light, to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and pleasant vallies, we came betimes to another river by _Ptolomy_ call’d _Caprus_, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so that we had much to do to get through, which I found not without a great detriment to my plants, which I carry’d on horse-back before me.