CHAPTER XVIII

COLONIA 215

An historical town--Rarity of mines in the River Plate countries--Specimens at Colonia--Situation of the town-- Past antagonism between the capitals of Argentina and Uruguay--Present aspect of Colonia compared with the former--A sleepy hollow--Periodical awakenings of the place--Impressions of the old town--Its colouring and compactness--Fortifications of the city of discord--A warlike history--Nations that have warred together at the spot--The reddest corner in a bloodstained land-- Surroundings of the town--Crumbling masonry--A medley of old and new--A Colonia street--Old-times scenes of peace and war--Some pictures of the past--Cannon as road posts--The Plaza--An episode in the wars with Portugal-- The eternity of romance--Real de San Carlo--A modern watering-place--Its buildings--The bullring--A gigantic pelota court--Popularity of the spot--A miniature tramway--Attractions of Real de San Carlo--Vegetation on the sands--A curious colour scheme--Pleasant lanes--Buenos Aires as a supplier of tourists.