CHAPTER XVII

MERCEDES AND THE SWISS COLONY 205

The journey to Mercedes--The outskirts of Montevideo-- Santa Lucia--A pleasant town--Native quince and gorse-- San José--The terminus of a great highway--Some feats of engineering--The urban importance of San José--A modern flour-mill--Mal Abrigo--Character of the soil--A country of boulders--Some animals of the Sierra de Mal Abrigo--The surroundings of Mercedes--A charmingly situated town--The terminus of the line--Some characteristics of Mercedes--Urban dwellings--The delights of the _patio_--The disadvantages of economy in space--Streets and plazas--The hospital--A well-equipped institution--View from the building--An island in the Rio Negro--The Port of Mercedes--River craft--Some local scenes--An equine passenger--Formidable gutters--The industries of the town--The Hôtel Comercial--Colonia Suiza--Situation of the Swiss Colony--Uruguayan Campo dwellings--Method of construction--Simplicity of household removals--Aspect of deserted huts--The houses of the Swiss Colony--Habits in general of South American colonists--The range of nationalities--Liberty accorded-- Population of the Colonia Suiza--Its industries--A dairy farming community--An important butter factory--An instance of a rapid rise from poverty to riches.