Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2
Part 15
[58] All of whom, as well as the different naval officers, are brought hither from Russia. To complete however their complement of sailors, M. Hall was obliged to raise recruits in the country; and the orders he brought were so precise, that the governor supplied him both with men and materials at his first requisition.
[59] We have seen in the description of Okotsk, that these buildings constituted the part of the town appropriated to trade. Alarmed at this incident, they immediately unfurnished their shops, determined to remove into the government square, of consequence they undertook to rebuild the barracks, and considerably augmented the number of them.
[60] The mode of preparing salmon is the same as at Kamtschatka.
[61] I have already given an account of this sport, which takes place in the moulting season, and observed that a stick is the only weapon used on the occasion.
[62] They consisted of leathern bags and portmanteaux; with this advantage, that they never gall the sides of the horses. The usual weight is five _pouds_, or two hundred pounds, and it never exceeds six _pouds_; that is, two hundred and forty. These loads they call _viouki_, and the horses that carry them _viouschni-loschadei_. If the baggage to be carried be lighter or less cumbrous, they place it upon the back of the animal, and fasten it with a cord of hair that passes under his belly.
[63] The Yakouts seemed not to be much concerned at the loss of these animals, and have no idea of affording them any assistance. When they refuse to go on, or fall down from weakness or fatigue, they are abandoned to their deplorable fate, and their carcasses are left to be devoured by bears, who never relinquish their prey while any thing remains but the bones. Every ten steps we see skeletons of these horses, and from Okotsk to the cross of Yudoma, I imagine that I passed more than two thousand. My conductors informed me that the majority had perished the preceding year, in conveying from Okotsk to Yakoutsk the different materials required for M. Billings’s expedition, in consequence of having been surprised by the floods, which had been so sudden that the guides saved themselves with difficulty. A part of their loads were still under a kind of _labazis_, of which I have already spoken, where travellers place their effects till the waters subside. It was added, that the Yakouts lose in this manner every year four or five thousand horses, in transporting the different objects of the commerce which they undertake.
[64] The Yakouts are so habituated to this exercise, that they might defy the most expeditious groom. They tie the horses three and three to each others tails, and a single rope serves to lead them all.
[65] I was a witness on this day of a circumstance that deserves to be related. My Yakouts skilfully peeled off large pieces of bark from the pine tree, of which they formed a sort of tent or parapluie, under which they took up their abode during the night.
[66] Beside various sorts of aquatic birds, we frequently met with the heath-cock and the white partridge; we also appropriated their eggs to our use, wherever we could find them.
[67] They were chiefly willows and alders; but deeper in the forests we perceived some firs and birch trees of a good height.
[68] They use for this purpose a long and wide blade fastened at the end of a stick three feet long. This instrument serves them both as lance and axe.
[69] I have already mentioned the quickness of the vegetation. Its progress was every day perceptible; the trees, which had been so long bare, gradually recovered their dress, and the country soon appeared like a vast meadow enamelled with rural flowers. What a spectacle for a man whose eye had for the space of six months seen nothing but frozen rivers, and mountains and plains covered with snow! It seemed to revive with nature, and to spring out of its ruins.
[70] There is actually a cross erected on the bank of the river.
[71] The abatement of the water was every day perceptible to the eye, and a longer delay would have exposed me to all the dangers of shoals, and the most formidable cataracts.
[72] These boats are flat, and terminate in points at the two extremities.
[73] It is called _listvenischnoie-derevo_.
[74] It pours itself into the Lena, at a little distance from, and north of, Yakoutsk.
[75] This place is called _Oust-mayapristann_ or harbour of the mouth of the Maya.
[76] During my five days navigation I had travelled near seven hundred wersts.
[77] Independently of various other cattle, he had a stud of two thousand horses in very good condition, though he had lost a considerable number by the conveyances occasioned by M. Billings’ expedition. From the manner in which he spoke of his submission to the will of the empress, I judged that he felt no reluctance at any sacrifices that proved his zeal.
[78] I met with many of these chiefs, to whom this language was as familiar as their own.
[79] See Vol. I. p. 184.
[80] Nothing is more easy than to distinguish the chamans, who let their hair grow, and tie it behind, from the Yakouts, who wear their hair short.
[81] The instrument which I here style a flute, is a bone hollowed and fashioned somewhat like our _flûtes à l’oignon_, and its tone is not less acute.
[82] The bark is stripped off, and the stakes either painted various colours, or ornamented with rude sculpture.
[83] In speaking of the saddles, I ought to have added that the stirrups are very short.
[84] Three horses pay here the same as one in Siberia.
[85] There would be no end to my repetitions if I were to mention all the civilities I received from each of these Yakout princes.
[86] The bark of this tree is stripped off in the spring.
[87] I was the first traveller this year from Okotsk that had yet arrived at Yakoutsk. The distance between these places is about fifteen hundred wersts.
[88] M. Marklofski was to hold the office till M. Kasloff arrived.
[89] The Lena crosses Siberia in nearly its widest part, from north-east to south-west, and pours itself afterwards into the Frozen Ocean.
[90] I shall say nothing of the mode of government, as it is similar to that of Okotsk.
[91] The post expences are not the greater on account of this distance; a man is paid at the same rate as a horse.
[92] They always fastened to my boat a small canoe, in which they return home, and which is carried along by the mere current of the river.
[93] It is also called _Olekminsk_.
[94] He informed me that the borders of the Lena were inhabited on this side by different hordes of his countrymen. I must observe, that the Toungouses and Lamouts may be regarded as the same people.
[95] The fish with which this river principally abounds is the sturgeon, or _sterled_. The industry of the Toungouses, makes caviare of the eggs of this fish, as we do.
[96] From a principle the reverse of that of the Koriacs, the Toungouses always milk the female deer. This milk, which they made me taste, is very thick.
[97] Their journeys extend as far as the frontiers of Tartary and China.
[98] As we approached Irkoutsk, the direction of the river became narrow. I remarked that the country was better cultivated; the wheat especially was very fine.
[99] These kibitks are in the shape of a large cradle. They are not hung upon any thing, and though you may lie down in them, you feel every jolt of the carriage.
[100] Almost all his children speak French; one of the sons writes it correctly, and possesses, as well as his brother, a thousand amiable qualities. They have a sister married to the vice-governor.
[101] During my stay at Okotsk, M. Kokh, at my request, had willingly conferred on him the rank of corporal. This unexpected favour made so strong an impression upon him, that, on his return from the parade, I thought he would have become mad from joy and gratitude.
[102] This treaty, which had been drawn up in Latin by these religious negociators, was translated into the Russian and Mantchew languages, and respectively ratified by the two sovereigns. This was the first instance, since the foundation of the Russian empire, of a treaty of peace being entered into by this nation, and foreigners permitted to enter the capital. At this epoch there were a number of Siberian families at Pekin, deserters or prisoners, and who, from the goodness of the emperor Kam-hi resolved to settle there, and even to naturalize themselves.
[103] It is in this manner the Russians write and pronounce the word Czar.
[104] Individuals soon freed themselves from the tyrannical shackles of the royal monopoly; they carried on a secret intercourse with China, by means of the Mongoul Tartars, who sold their mediation at a high price.
[105] The reader will find in Coxe all the details respecting these boundaries.
[106] This, I believe, is the place called by the Russians _Naïmatschinn_.
[107] When I was at Okotsk, tea was sixteen roubles a pound, and very scarce. I was told that it was sent from Petersburg, and that Russia at present procured this article either from England or Holland.
[108] On my arrival in Siberia I was informed, at various times, that the Russian merchants repented of the speculations they had made in consequence of the late adjustment; and as a proof that they considered it as void, many of them, who opened their warehouses to shew me the prodigious quantity of skins which they had buried in them, agreed in saying that they waited impatiently for the time when a new treaty would give them an opportunity of getting rid of their commodities.
If I might be permitted to give my opinion, I would venture to assert, that the dearest interests, both of Russia and China, are concerned in the speedy accomplishment of this new compact; but, that it may be cemented in a manner more durable and beneficial to the respective commerce of the two nations, it will perhaps be first necessary that they should, in concert, lighten the burthen of taxes, and take away all the restrictions that intimidate and discourage the merchant. It might also be expedient for Russia, profiting of the physical and natural advantages she possesses from her situation, to fit out ships from Okotsk or Kamtschatka, or some other port, which might go directly to Macao or Canton, and carry on the trade at a much less expence than by land. The communication between Okotsk and Siberia is not very difficult, and this province would doubtless become more flourishing when this route was more frequented. These reflections naturally led me to what I have said in the first volume of this work (_note, p. 9._) of the project of an English merchant at Macao. Why should not the Russians make similar attempts? Have they not better opportunities than the English of monopolizing the fur trade with China? When the way was once opened, it would be easy to extend the communication to new objects. I say nothing of the inestimable advantage that Russia would derive from this commercial navigation, in having numerous and skilful seamen.
[109] Desirous of finishing my journey more expeditiously, I left the greater part of my effects with M. Medvedoff, a merchant, who politely undertook to send them to Petersburg.
To settle this business, he invited me to sup with him. While we were at table, the town experienced an earthquake, which was tolerably violent, and lasted two minutes. We perceived it by the shaking of our glasses, table, and chairs; all the bells sounded, and many turrets were thrown down. Upon the first terror it occasioned, various conjectures were formed respecting the cause of this shock; as I perceived that the motion, or undulation, was from south to north, it was supposed to originate in a neighbouring lake, called _Baikal_. I leave it to naturalists to decide the question.
[110] This river, taking the name of _Tounkoutska_, runs as far as Yenisei (near the town of Yeniseisk) and, at some distance from Irkoutsk, falls into the vast lake, which the Russians call the sea of _Baikal_. This lake is said to be surrounded with lofty mountains, its water is fresh, but the navigation of it is unsafe, on account of the frequent storms to which it is exposed. I much regret the not having been able to visit it.
[111] The strength of my expressions in describing my sentiments towards this soldier, require, in my opinion, no apology. I have nothing to say to any one that shall blame me, when informed of the services he rendered me.
[112] Among these authors I shall mention Gmelin, Neveu, Lepekinn, Ritschkoff, Falk and Georgi, abbe Chappe, and Pallas. The last particularly has in his descriptions the triple merit of accuracy, energy, and extensive information.
[113] There were some persons of distinction among them.
[114] Its borders are said to be infested with robbers, who are probably nothing more than the watermen. I saw many of them in my route, but never received the smallest insult.
[115] It is a praise due to the postilions of Russia; in no part are we driven so rapidly, and the reason is that they are almost always tipsy. In the villages, after harvest, it is necessary to take them by force from the public houses.
[116] These towns are well known: I passed them with such speed as scarcely to see them.
VOCABULARY OF THE KAMTSCHADALE, KORIAC, TCHOUKTCHI, AND LAMOUT LANGUAGES.
ENGLISH. RUSSIAN. KAMTSCHADALE. KORIAC. TCHOUKTCHI. LAMOUT.
GOD Bokh Douchtéakhtchitch, Kamakliou En-iéga Kh-éouki [1] Kout & Koutka _or_ Angag
Father Otets Epep Empitch Illiguin Amai
Mother Matt Engatcha Ella Illa Eni
Child Dittia Péétch Kmouiguin Ninkhai Khoutean
I Ia Kimméa Guiomma Guim Bi
Name (of Iméa Kharénétch Ninna Ninnéa Guerbin a thing)
A circle, Kroug Kill la Kil Kamlell Kilvo Miouréati or round
Smell Doukh Tchékh outch Voui voui Vouie guirguin Ounga
An animal Zvér Kazit kenguiia Alliougoullou Illpouilla Boioun
A stake Koll Outlept kouitch Oupouinpin Oupinpekhai Tipiioun
A river Réka Kiig Veiem Veiem Okat
Labour Rabota Kazonem Iakhitchat Tirétirkigssinn Gourgalden guiguin
Death Smért Eranim Veiaguiguin Veiéigou Kokan
Water Voda Azamkh _or_ Ji Mima Mimil Mou
The sea Moré Ezouk Ankan Ankho Nam
Mountain Gora Inzit Guiéguéi Neit Ouraktchan
Evil Boll Lodonim Tatch guiguin Téguél Eien
Indolence Lénn Kh-alacik Kouloumgatomg Télounga Ban
Summer Léta Adempliss Alaal Elek Anganal
The year God Tkhatkhass Guiviguiv Guioud Angan
ENGLISH. RUSSIAN. KAMTSCHADALE. KORIAC. TCHOUKTCHI. LAMOUT.
The Svétt Atkhat Khétchguikhei Kheiguikei Guévan universe
Salt Soll Peipiem Yamyam Teguiou Tak
An ox Bouik Kezioung Tchimga Penvel Gueldak
The Certsé Guillioun Lingling Liig ling Mévan heart
Strength Cila Kekhkekh Nikétvoukhin Nikatoukhin Egui
Health Zdrava Klouvesk Tmelessvouk Gué mélevli Abgar
Well Kharacho Klioubello Nimélkhin Nimelkhin Aïa
Ill Dourno Keiel Khatkin Guetkin Kanioulit
The hand Rouka Tonno _or_ Mouina galguin Mouinguit Gal Cettoud
The foot Noga Katkha _or_ Guit galguin Guitkalguin Boudel Tkada
The ear Oukho Aïllo _or_ Vélioulguin Velioulguin Gorot Jioud
The nose Noss Kekiou _or_ Enguittaam Ekhkhaiakh Ogot Kika
The Rott Cekcé _or_ Ikniguin Guikirguin Amga mouth Kissa
The head Glava Khobel _or_ Léout Léout Del Tkhouzgéa
The Gorlo Kouikh Pilguin Pilguin Belga throat
The Lob Tchoutschel Kitschal Kitschal Omkat forehead _or_ Tchikika
A tooth Zoub Kip khépp Bannalguin Ritti Itt
The Iazik Ditchel Lill Guiguil Enga tongue
The Lokott Tallotall Nitschiouvétt Kirvouéliin Etschén elbow
The Paltsi Tkida _or_ Iélguit Tchnilguit Kh-abrr fingers Kik-énn
The Nokhti Koud _or_ Véguit Véguit Osta nails Kououn
The Choki Aié ioud Elpitt Irspitt Anntschinn cheeks _or_ Pr-énn
The Chéia Khaitt Ennaïnn Inguik Mivonn neck
The Pletcho Tanioud _or_ Iilpitt Tchilpiv Mirr shoulder Tenno
The Brioukho K-Khailita Nannkhénn Nannkhinn Ourr belly
The Nozdri Kanngassounn Innvalté Kh-Elonn nostrils
The Brovi Talténn Litchvétt Kh-aramta eyebrows
The Réssnitsi Khenng- Illiatchiguit Virvitt eyelids iatschourenn
ENGLISH. RUSSIAN. KAMTSCHADALE. KORIAC. TCHOUKTCHI. LAMOUT.
The face Litso Gouénng Lioulgoulkhall Lioulgolkhill Itti
The back Spina Karo Khaptiann Khéptitt Néri
Natural Kallkhann parts of a man
Natural Kouappa parts of a woman
The blood Krov Bechlem Moulliou moul Moulliou moul Souguial
Great Véliko Tgolo Niméankin Niméankin Ekjam
Small Malo Outchinnélo Ouppouliou- Niouppouliou- Niouki- khin kin schoukan
High Vouisloko Kran-alo Niguiné- Nivlikhin Gouda guimakhen
Low Nisko Disoulo Nivtokhin Nivkhodin Niatkoukak
The sun Solntzé Koullétch Tikiti Tirkiti Nioultian
The moon Mécéts Kirkh-kirkh Yalguin Tschatamoui Bekh
A star Zvézda Ezeng-itch Lillia Eguér Ossikatt petschan
The sky Nébo Kokh-khéll Kh-igan Keh-iguin Nian, or Djioulbka
A ray Loutch Ts-eiguilik Tikakh- Tirkhikh-mell Elganni Mouinpen
Fire Ogonn Briououmkhitch Mouilguin Mouiltimouil Tog _or_ Panitch
Heat Jarr Kékak Koutigué- Nitilkhin Khokhssin létonn
The voice Goloss Khaélo Koumguikoum Khoullikhoul Delgann
A door Dvér Onnotch Téllitél Titil Ourka
A hole in Iama Khiouép Zolou Nouterguin Kengra the ground ioulguin
Day Dénn Taaje Alvoui Liougiout Ining
Night Notsch Kiounnouk Nikinik Likita Golbani
A town Grad Attéiim Gouina Vouivou Gorad
Life Jizn Zoït léném Kioulgatnguin Toukoulguiarm Inni
A forest Léss Ou out Outitou Outit Khenita
Grass Trava Chichtch Biigai Bagaïling Orat
Sleep Sonn Caéksn Miél khaïrik Guiilkhét Oukléan iarinn
A tree or Drévo Ou _or_ Outé Outouout Outtiougout Mo wood
To sleep Spatt Oun ekleni Kouel Miilkhamik Oukladaï khalangui
To cut Rézatt Lzinim Koutch Viguin Khitschviguin Minadaï
To tie, to Vézatt Tratak Tién mouiguin Trémitim Gadgim fasten
Measure Méra Tiakinioung Tenn métén Nig eni Ilkavonn
Gold Zoloto Elni- Tschedliou- Mérka pélvouitinn pouilvouiténn
Silver Srébro Elni- Nilguikin- Méguén pélvouitinn pouilvouiténn
A hearth Otchag Ak kannim Melguippioul- Milguipialguin Nerka guin
A house Domm Kizd Ia ianga Valkarad Djou
The Sloukh Ioulloteliim Tikovaloming Valioulm Issni hearing
The sight Zrenié Eltchkioulnim Tikila Mogourkim Igouroun ounguin
The taste Vkouss Tal tal Amtam
The smell Obonanié Kheisk Kot-keng Tikerkin Moiéni
The skin Koja Salsa Nalguin Nelguin Iss, _or_ Nandra
Stay, stop Stoï Khimikhtch Khanni Khvellia Illé vouilgui
A dog Sabaca Kossa Kh attaan Guéttin Ninn
An egg Iaitso Dilkhatch Ligli Liglig Oumta
A bird Ptissa Disskhilt Gallia Gallia Dei
A feather Péro Cissiou Téguélguin Téguél Detlé
Husband Mouje, Kiskoug Ouiakhotch Ouréakhotch Edi _or_ Mouch
Wife Géna Tigen outch Névgann Névgann Achi
Brother Bratt Tig-a Khaita Khaïta Akann kalguin kalguin
Sister Séstra Dikhtoung Tchaa kiguit Tchakiguitch Eken
Love Lioubov Allokhtel Kekmitcha Nitvaïguim Goudj anim angui mona
To love Lioubitt Tallokhtel Ekmoukoulni- Tchivéatchim Aïa azinn guin vrovou
A letter Zémlia Cimmit Noutelkhen Noultenour Tor
A girdle Poïass Ciititt Iguit Ririt Boïat
A stone Kaminn Kouall Gouvién Vougonn Djoul
Give Daï Katkou Khinéélgui Kétam Omouli
Go, begone Padi, Téout Khallikhatigui Khél khit Khourli padi potsch
No Niétt Biinakitlik Ouinnié Ouinéa Atcha
Yes Da Lébell E E Ya
To drink Pitt Ekoss kholnim Mouiv Migoutschi Koldakou vouitschik
The Vreméa Takkhit, _or_ Khoulitik Khouriti Khéren weather Takkhiiat
Thick Tolst Khaoumouilli Nooumkhin Nioumkhin Dérom
A bone Kost Kotg amtch Kh attaam Ettemkai Ipri
To sing Pétt Ang iéssonim Kagannguiang Khoulikhoul Ikann
Light, Légok Dimss khoulou Ninnakhin Nimirkoukhin Aïmkhoun (not heavy)
A cow Karova Khoukoum
A sheep, Barann Koulem Kitéb Kétéb Ouiamkan or Argali
A pig Svinia[2]
A goose Gouss Kissouiéss Erbatsch
A duck Outka Ditchimatch Néki
A ditch, Rov Aétchpouinnim Nota Nivékhschin- Khouniram or canal guilguiguin koutérguin
Fruit Plod Issgatessitch Iévouinann Vouinnia khaï Baldaran
Horn Rov Détténn Innalguin Aïvalkhschléa Tannia
Good Dobro Klioubello Malguiguin Nimelhhin Aïa
Bad Khoudo K’kéllello Kh antkinn Guerkin Kannaialit