Part 14

I left my kibitk in this village to the care of my soldier, with orders to have it repaired, and to follow me immediately to the next town. While my post carriage was harnessing, and my box put into it, I entered a public house, and had some very strong brandy poured into my wound, and a good compress placed on it, which enabled me to proceed to Nijenei-novogorod, which was from twenty-five to thirty wersts.

The surgeon major, at whose house I stopped, was not at home, and in order to wait for him, I was conducted into a most filthy habitation. The desire of not being known, and the uncertainty I was in respecting my wound, induced me not to announce myself to the governor. In the afternoon I returned to the surgeon’s, but to no purpose. Impatient of suffering, without knowing what might be the effect of my wound, I asked if there was no one else who could assist me, and they mentioned a _podleker_, or surgeon’s mate, who, after many difficulties on his part, came to me. His address gave me no favourable impression respecting his talents and sobriety; it had all the bluntness and tottering gait of a drunken man. In the mean time the necessity of having my wound probed, overcame the repugnance I felt of trusting myself to such hands; but the wretch had forgotten his instruments. Who would suppose that a pin was the probe he borrowed? Having examined it, he informed me, in a fluttering manner, that my skull was laid open, but not at all fractured, and that with the application of brandy and water I might continue my journey; he then advised me to be blooded. The idea of trusting my arm to such a drunkard made me shudder. Having thanked, paid, and dismissed him, I got into my carriage, happy to be rid both of the operation and the operator.

Nijenei-novogorod is situated, as every one knows, upon the Wolga, and is similar to all the Russian towns. When I passed through it, it boasted of the honour of having a company of national comedians.

Leaving Vladimer, I came to Moscow. M. de Boffe was anxious to have my wound examined by the most skillful surgeons. Their report gave me confidence, though the pains in my head were tolerably acute. I found myself the more consoled by the removal of my fears, as I learned at the same time a circumstance very much calculated to increase them. M. de Boffe told me that my father was not at Petersburg: if therefore I had been dangerously wounded, and this town had been the termination of my career, I should have been deprived of the consolation of ending my life in the arms of him to whom I owed it.

My carriage being in a shattered condition, I left it at Moscow, and sat off in one of the common post carriages; but they were so small and so incommodious, as not even to shelter me from the rain. I passed by Tver, Vonischnei-volotschok, Novogorod, and Sophia near Tsarskocelo[116], and I entered Petersburg in the night of 22 September, having travelled six thousand wersts in forty days, eight of which were lost in the unavoidable delays I had experienced.

Agreeably to the instruction of count de la Perouse, I delivered my packets into the hands of count de Segur, minister plenipotentiary from the court of France to the empress. I had the pleasure of seeing him on his arrival in Russia, and I count it among the happy events of my life that I now found him at Petersburg, to console me for the absence of my father. This minister not only received me in the most gracious manner, but interested himself in my health with every mark of affection. He offered one of his couriers to accompany and take care of me during the remainder of my journey. Meanwhile as the skill of his surgeon had effected my cure, I thanked the count for his obliging offer, but was unwilling to deprive him of a man who might be necessary to him.

Charged with his dispatches, I left Petersburg the 26, between eleven and twelve at night. At Remer, as the weather was foul, I was eight hours in engaging watermen to take me across an arm of the sea called _Courich-haff_. I slept at Berlin, count d’Esterno, minister plenipotentiary of the king to this court, being also desirous of sending dispatches by me; I was well requited for this trifling delay, by the flattering things which it occasioned me from this minister.

At length I saw my native country, and 17 October at three o’clock in the afternoon, I arrived at Versailles. I alighted at the house of count de la Luzerne, minister and secretary of state for the marine department. I had not the happiness of being known to him, but the very kind reception he gave me, instantly prepared my heart for the gratitude, which on so many accounts I owe him. To his favour, upon which I set the highest value, I am indebted for the honour of having been presented, the same day, to his majesty, who condescended to interrogate me respecting various circumstances of my expedition; expressed a desire to know the particulars; and recompensed me the next day by appointing me consul at Cronstadt; a recompence so much the dearer, as it reminded me of the eulogiums that had been bestowed on the zeal of all my family, in the civil and political offices with which they had been entrusted.

THE END.

FOOTNOTES

[1] During my stay at Poustaretsk, the governor had dismissed our Kamtschadale guides. Some of them belonged to the environs of Bolcheretsk, and were four hundred leagues distant from their home. These poor creatures, almost all their dogs having died of fatigue and hunger, were obliged to return on foot.

[2] All the wandering Koriacs avoided us in the same manner, that they might not be obliged to assist us.

[3] These people are at the south of the Tchouktchis, upon the eastern coast.

[4] This tent was made of linen; I had purchased it of M. Vorokoff before I left Poustaretsk.

[5] This report had gained credit from the false representation of Bogonoff, the engineer. He asserted, that the Koriacs had, by force of arms, opposed his entrance into the river Pengina. When I mentioned it to them, they protested, that so far from opposing the passage of this engineer, they had treated him during his stay with great kindness and friendship.

[6] This detachment had originally consisted of forty men; but at the requisition of Kabechoff, ten Cossacs were added to it, who arrived at Kaminoi with the supplies, which we have already mentioned.

[7] These people, informed that I was on my way to Ingiga, would, I was told, probably come to meet me, were it merely from a spirit of curiosity.

[8] See Vol. I. p. 225.

[9] My escort thus consisted of four men; this Golikoff, the soldier who had accompanied me from Poustaretsk, and two others chosen from the detachment as my guides: I thought it necessary however to add a Koriac guide, as I conceived that he must be better acquainted with the road.

[10] The scarcity of dogs at Kaminoi, and the wretched state of mine, had determined M. Schmaleff to let me have those belonging to the detachment.

[11] The reader will recollect that I was then in a Kamtschadale dress.

[12] The perfidy of the Koriacs has almost always endeavoured to inflame the enmity of the Tchoukchis against the Russians, either by false reports, or by inciting them to attack such parties of Russians whom they could not, or dared not, attack themselves. These artful manœuvres have been the cause of the many acts of cruelty with which the Tchoukchis have been reproached, but which form no part of their character.

[13] That is, beyond the cape of Tchoukchi, known in maps by the name of _Tchoukotskoi-nos_.

[14] The fear of being surprised in the night by the Koriacs occasions this precaution.

[15] Polygamy is allowed by these people; one may say indeed that they admit promiscuous cohabitation, for they are said to carry their politeness so far as to offer their wives or daughters to their guests. To refuse the offer would be an insult. I cannot answer for the truth of this report.

[16] I had the greater reason to suspect him, as his mode of introducing himself, reminded me of the expedients he had employed the preceding year to detain a sailor, charged by government with important dispatches. The sailor, anxious to arrive at the place of his destination, was prepared to leave Pareiné, when Youltitka pressed him to wait till the next day. He showed no disposition to comply, but was desirous of proceeding immediately. The dispute became warm. The enraged Koriac fell upon him, and would instantly have assassinated him, if he had not been torn from his hands. He was bound, and kept in confinement for three days. At length, after having suffered every sort of ill treatment, Youltitka permitted him to go, with the hope perhaps of putting an end to him more easily in his way; but the prey escaped him.

[17] It is difficult to conceive of a man more completely ugly. Large and squat, his whole face seamed with the small pox, and various other scars, a sullen countenance, black hair, that joined enormous eye-brows, under which there was only one eye, and that sunk in his head, haggard and fierce; the other he had lost by accident: such is the exact picture of this Koriac prince.

[18] This tribunal is called in Russia _nijenei-zemskoisoud_, or inferior territorial tribunal. The judges are selected in turn from the peasants in the ostrogs of each district. The exercise of their office is limited to three years. These judges are called _zassédatels_.

[19] They use no kind of cloth or napkin for this purpose. They take a stick, scrape it for a few minutes, and with the shavings they rub and clean their dishes and other utensils used in their cooking.

[20] So they call these tempests.

[21] It is necessary to be incessantly on the watch for fear of a surprise on the part of the neighbouring Koriacs, whose daring and turbulent character leads them frequently to revolt, and to attack the town at a time when it is least expected. When they come to Ingiga for commercial purposes, they are not permitted to make any long stay.

[22] Called in Russia _kounits_.

[23] He was chiefly terrified by the fasts, which, with the Greeks, are very rigid and very frequent.

[24] I have not the same complaint to make against the wandering Koriacs. I found them in general more frank and obliging, and shall presently give a proof of it.

[25] The wandering Koriacs were for a long time still more untractable. The independence to which they were accustomed, and the natural restlessness of their character, little disposed them to submit to the yoke. The Russians, beside, from a love of conquest, were perhaps not remarkable for moderation, and endeavoured probably to make themselves feared rather than loved. It is certain that they experienced the regret of seeing whole hordes suddenly disperse upon the least appearance of oppression, and fly, as in concert, far from the settlements where they hoped, by the attraction of commerce, to fix them. These frequent flights took place till the arrival of major Gaguen. By the mildness of his government, his repeated invitations, and beneficial proposals, he has gradually brought back these fugitive families. First one returned, then two, then three; the force of example, and a kind of emulation operated upon others, and when I was at Ingiga there were no less than eleven yourts in the neighbourhood of that town.

But the skilful policy of major Gaguen has still more successfully effected the views of the Czarina, by taking advantage of the necessary commercial intercourse, gradually to establish between the Russians and the Koriacs of both descriptions in the neighbourhood, a reciprocity of good offices, a kind of agreement between individual and individual, that reminds us of ancient hospitality, and that will one day infallibly operate a revolution in the manners of this people.

If a Koriac be obliged by his business to pass the night in the town, he demands a lodging of his Russian friend, and without farther ceremony takes possession. His host considers it as his duty to receive him, to study his inclinations, to anticipate his wants, and his wishes; and in short, spares nothing in order to entertain him in the best manner he can, that is, to make him completely drunk. Upon his return home, he relates with pleasure the flattering reception he has met with. He considers it as an obligation, a sacred debt, of which he is anxious to acquit himself the first opportunity that offers. This is a pleasing custom, particularly to a Russian soldier, who is obliged to make frequent journeys to the neighbouring villages. The gratitude of the Koriac towards his friend, does not confine itself to the affording him a lodging, regaling him, and supplying him with provisions for his excursion; he protects him, and becomes his defence against his countrymen.

[26] All the Koriacs whom I met with on my way from Poustaretsk are equally subject to famine with the inhabitants of that hamlet. The bark of the birch tree mixed with the fat of the sea wolf, is then their whole subsistence.

[27] The rivers near this ostrog are so small as to be entirely frozen up as soon as the cold sets in, and during more than half the year the inhabitants are obliged to drink melted snow or ice.

[28] It is used in the Russian houses to destroy insects.

[29] The enamorata probably is not always obdurate, but equally impatient with her lover to put an end to this laborious novitiate, and acknowledges herself touched, before it has taken place.

[30] It is also that of the Tchouktchis, and before the introduction of Christianity was the system of the Kamtschadales.

[31] They believe also in inferior deities. Some they consider as household gods, the guardians of their rustic habitations. These idols, coarsely carved and blackened with smoke, are hung up in the most conspicuous part of their yourts. They are dressed in the Koriac mode, and adorned with bells, rings, and various other iron and copper trinkets. The other inferior deities they consider as inhabiting mountains, woods, and rivers, which reminds us of the nymphs in the mythology of the ancient Greeks.

[32] I frequently perceived in the course of my journey the remains of dogs and rein deer suspended on stakes, and testifying the devotion of the sacrificers.

[33] I dismissed my conductors of course. I have not yet mentioned the post charges. While I travelled with M. Kasloff, they were defrayed by him, and I did not pay my share, till I came to quit him. The reader is intitled to a note upon the subject, which I shall here give him.

These charges are called in Russia _progonn_: a courier pays two kopecks per werst for every horse, and other travellers four kopecks. A kopeck is equal to a French _sou_, or an English halfpenny. In Kamtschatka and Siberia the expence is less by one half, and as dogs are almost invariably made use of in the peninsula, they are charged at so much per _podvod_, or team of five dogs. Three podvods, or fifteen dogs, are considered as equal to one horse in Siberia, for which a courier pays a kopeck per werst, and other travellers two kopecks.

[34] These compliments do not, as with us, consist of mere ceremony and cold civilities, accompanied with unmeaning words. The assembly is no sooner seated, than brandy is introduced. A domestic distributes three enormous bumpers to every individual, one of which would be sufficient in any other country to make a man give in. Here it is merely a provokative to double and triple the dose. A Koriac toper considers it in no other light, and when it is presented to him, he gives a complacent smile to the whole company, and particularly to the master of the house, to whom also he makes a slight inclination of the head. He then swallows, one upon another, without the least sign of repugnance, three glasses filled as fast as possible. The children drink it with as little aversion. I have seen a child six or seven years old take off one of these glasses, without making a wry face.

To this copious distribution of brandy M. Gaguen never fails to add some presents of iron, stuffs, or tobacco, and carries his attention so far as to consult the taste and wants of each individual. The Tchouktchis, and the fixed Koriacs, are treated with similar kindness. By this means he has gradually tamed these savage minds, and gained an influence and ascendency over them: a poor recompence for the sacrifices he is obliged to make to provide these liberalities, the expence of which falls solely upon himself, and from the dearness of every article in this country, must be a heavy burthen to him.

[35] Sometimes the lower part of this rein is furnished with little sharp pieces of bone, which, with the smallest shock, serve to goad forward the animals that are untractable, and are continually employed for that purpose. In harnessing the rein deer, they are careful not to put on the right the beast that is trained to draw on the left, the sledge would otherwise, instead of advancing, be instantly overturned. This trick, however, the Koriacs frequently play upon the Russians, who they think have treated them ill.

[36] They had indeed quitted the road, but had only dragged me about fifty paces from it.

[37] This proceeding was the more agreeable to me, as being perfectly unexpected. It was the first present that any Koriac had offered me. I should not have observed this, if, as having just quitted the hospitable Kamtschadales who had loaded me with gifts, I had not been tempted to compare the characters of the two people.

[38] In the presence of the Russians, he crosses himself before and after his meals, and when he enters his yourt.

[39] Among a hundred of these skins scarcely two can be found fine enough for furs. There are some entirely white.

[40] The yourt of my host was about eight yards in diameter, and nearly of the same height. The circumference at the base was twenty-four yards, and the top similar to that of a cone.

[41] We caught some excellent trout.

[42] The snow fell in such abundance, that these poor animals were in a manner buried under it. Accustomed however to such weather, they crowd together, and always holding their noses in the air, the heat of their breath, by penetrating their cold covering, creates a free passage for respiration. They have the sense also to shake themselves when the snow becomes too heavy.

[43] Our company consisted of ten, seven of whom were Koriacs, whose filthiness is well known.

[44] Though this circuit was more than seven hundred wersts, the rapidity of these rivers insured me a speedy navigation, by which I should have gained a considerable advantage in point of time, besides the pleasure of enjoying the first appearance of spring.

[45] A vessel from Okotsk was wrecked in this place a few years ago. The whole cargo, consisting of provisions, was lost, and almost all the crew perished.

[46] All the fixed Koriacs between Ingiga and Yamsk are baptised. These two settlements have but one priest, whose habitual residence is at Ingiga. He seldom makes the circuit of his district, which extends as far as the ostrog of Taousk, the first place belonging to the diocese of Okotsk.

[47] The post expences are the same here as in Kamtschatka for common sledges, though the teams of the nartas consist of double the number of dogs.

[48] This was a real loss to my conductors: there are dogs of a price as high as fifty roubles, and not one of them is sold for less than five.

[49] The ice bent under my sledge at every step.

[50] M. Kokh was born in Germany, and spoke the Russian language as fluently as his own; he wanted only confidence to express himself equally well in French. He had long retired to this settlement with his wife and three children, where he lives in peace, surrounded by his little family, rich in the public esteem, and happy in the opportunity which his situation affords him of doing good.

[51] Accustomed to such accidents when they travel in this season of the year, they ascend the loftiest trees, where they fabricate with the branches a kind of hut called _labazis_; but it often happens that the torrents do not abate, and in this case they equally perish for want of food.

[52] This was no very easy task, if we consider the extreme weakness of these poor animals, who have no other sustenance, during the whole winter, than the branches of willows, or birch trees. With such nourishment, what service was to be expected from them! To support so long a fast, they surely stand in need of the respite from labour which is commonly allowed them during this season of the year; and even at the commencement of spring, it is not prudent to make use of them till they have recovered their strength by better pasture. The fields are no sooner freed from the snow, than they disperse in eager pursuit of every little blade of grass, and devour the shoots almost before they spring out of the ground; rapid as the vegetation is in this country, it must be supposed that a considerable time is necessary to recover their vigour.

[53] See Coxe, Chap. I.

[54] I might here give an account of the origin, progress, and nature of the commercial alliance between these two empires; but as the caravans sent by the Russians to Kiatka, commonly assemble at Irkoutsk, I shall defer it till my arrival at that settlement, where I shall perhaps acquire still more accurate information.

[55] I shall not enter into particulars respecting the manner in which these settlements were made. The Russians unfortunately displayed neither more integrity nor greater humanity than in their preceding conquests; and I wish it was in my power to draw a perpetual veil over the scenes of horror which they repeated on their arrival in these climates. But the many instances of injustice and dishonesty practiced by the chiefs, pilots, merchants, and sailors, have given rise to such a variety of complaints and suits, and so many authors have written upon the subject, that my silence could have no effect. It is well known that a number of ships employed in this trade have been accused of taking by force, instead of purchasing, the furs which they brought back, and sold at an immense profit. Not content with tearing from the unfortunate indigines these fruits of their courage and labour, they sometimes compelled them, under the immediate inspection, and for the sole profit of the crew, to hunt otters, beavers, sea cows, foxes, and other animals; and frequently from an excess of distrust or avarice, they hunted themselves. Such conduct induces us to believe that they were guilty of crimes still more shocking. It is not to be supposed that at so great a distance, the injunctions and menaces of the empress should in all cases so far operate as to prevent enormities. Experience has too clearly demonstrated, particularly in the extensive empire of Russia, that authority becomes weak, in proportion as it is farther removed from the center. How many years of vigilance and discipline are necessary, before abuses can be suppressed, and obedience effected! This has long been the object of the existing administration, and there is reason to presume that its exertions have not been fruitless.

[56] Such was the project of a merchant of my acquaintance, who expected to derive from it the most considerable advantages. With the map of Cooke’s voyage in his hand, his intention was to enter the river that bears the name of this celebrated navigator, and to extend his course as far as the environs of the bay of Nootka. If he found himself able to execute his plan, it is possible that he would not be wholly deceived in his hopes, and his countrymen may, perhaps, be hereafter indebted to his information and courage for the knowledge of new sources of wealth.

[57] See Vol. I. p. 140.