Part 4

Veal Broth 101

It is essential in making invalid soups that the meat used should be uncooked and very good.

For beef tea use steak or shin of beef.

Every piece of skin, membrane and fat should be carefully removed from the meat to be used.

Vegetables, spice and seasoning should not be used unless permitted by the doctor.

When soup has to be made quickly a little time can be saved by removing the fat from it while it is still hot (see p. 3).

Beef Essence

Cut up a lean piece of juicy rump steak into small pieces. Put these into a closely covered jar without any water. Stand the jar in a large sauce-pan containing cold water. Heat slowly and keep just below boiling point. When the meat in the jar is white, it is done. This should be in about two hours. Strain off the juice, pressing the meat while doing so in order that none may be left in it. Season with a little salt.

OR,

Place the meat in a closely covered jar in a moderate oven, leaving it there for three hours. Strain as above.

In both cases the essence should be kept in a cold place. It must not be boiled when it is heated. It can be made into beef tea by adding boiling water to it.

Beef Tea--I

1 lb. very juicy rump steak or shin of beef 1 cup cold water

Cut the meat into very small pieces. Put these in a bowl and cover with a cup of cold water. Cover the basin and leave for three or four hours. Then, squeezing the meat firmly, drain off all the liquid. Strain this, add a little salt, and when required heat very gently. It is best to do this in a _bain marie_, as it curdles easily (see p. 110).

Add another cup of cold water to the meat, and proceed as for the first cup.

Beef Tea--II

1 lb. steak or shin of beef 2 pints water

Cut the meat, which must be lean and juicy, into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan and cover with a quart of water. Heat very gently. Skim whenever necessary. Simmer for a little more than an hour. Strain through muslin into a basin. Let it stand until cool. Remove the fat. Pour off the clear beef tea very gently from the dregs.

Beef Tea--III

4 lbs. of steak or shin of beef 2 lbs. bones 2 quarts cold water

Break and crush the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces. Put into a stew-pan and cover with the cold water. Heat very slowly. Simmer for three hours. Add a little salt. Strain into a basin. Allow it to cool. Remove any fat very carefully. Pour off the clear liquid carefully from the dregs.

If allowed, a little carrot and celery may be cooked with the beef tea.

Calves’ Foot Broth (or Jelly)

2 calves’ feet 2 quarts cold water 2 table-spoons sugar Juice of half a lemon Glass of good white wine

Scald and clean the feet. Split and break them. Put into a stew-pan and cover with two quarts of cold water. Heat very slowly and simmer until reduced to about a pint and a half. Strain. When cold remove the fat. Add sugar and lemon juice. Return to the fire. Let it boil for five minutes, stirring continually. Skim thoroughly. Add the wine. Strain through a jelly bag, and keep in a cold place.

In making broth, the wine may be omitted, and in its place the beaten yolk of an egg added. In which case it will only be necessary to strain it instead of passing it through a jelly bag. Sago or tapioca, which has been boiled till tender, should be added.

Chicken Broth

One chicken 1 quart of cold water Juice of a lemon Boiled rice or vermicelli

Cut up a chicken into small pieces. Remove the meat from the bones as much as possible. Crush the bones. Cover meat and bones with a quart of water. Heat very slowly. Simmer until perfectly tender. When tender strain off the liquid. Let it get cool. Remove the fat. Heat again, adding a little salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Allow the broth to boil for five minutes. Strain through a napkin. Add a little well boiled rice or vermicelli, and a little of the white meat of the chicken cut in dice.

Chicken Custard

1 chicken 3 pints of cold water 2 yolks of eggs

Clean, skin and cut up a young chicken. Put it into a stew-pan with about three pints of cold water. Heat very slowly. Skim carefully when it boils. Allow it to simmer for an hour. Strain off the liquid through a napkin.

To each half pint of broth add the yolks of two eggs. Put in a double boiler and stir until it thickens (see p. 50). Serve at once.

Chicken Panada

1 chicken 1 French roll 1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and boil it gently until tender. Remove it from the liquid and let it cool. Then cut off the white meat, pound it in a mortar. Mix with it the crumb of a French roll that has been soaked in broth. Add a little of the broth the chicken was boiled in. Pass through a tammy. Dilute with broth. Salt. Heat gently, but do not allow it to boil.

A table-spoon of well-boiled rice may be substituted for the crumb of a French roll.

Game Panada

Game panada is made in exactly the same way as chicken panada, substituting a pheasant, or a couple of partridges, for the chicken.

Chicken Tea

1 chicken 1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and divide it into pieces. Put in a stew-pan and cover with one quart of water. Simmer gently for a full hour. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve hot or cold.

Mutton Broth

1 lb. lean mutton 1 pint cold water 2 table-spoons boiled rice

Chop the mutton very fine. Put it in a stew-pan with one pint of cold water. Put it in a basin and cover it with the water. Cover the basin. Let it stand for an hour. Then heat very gently. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain. Remove the fat. Add the well-boiled rice.

Veal Broth

A knuckle of veal A chicken 2 quarts of water 2 table-spoons well-boiled rice

Put a knuckle of veal and a chicken (an old one will do) into a large stew-pan. Cover with two quarts of water. Let it boil up gently. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain through a napkin. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve with a little boiled rice.

Accessories

PAGE

Croûtons 104

Custards 104

Force-meat Balls 105

Green Colouring 105

Potato Balls 106

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare, Rabbit 106

Quenelles of Marrow 107

Rice 107

Rice (savoury) 108

Rice Balls 108

Croûtons

Several slices of stale bread 1 oz. of butter

Cut off the crust and cut the bread into small dice-shaped pieces. Fry them in the butter. Drain them on a sieve. Before serving, put them for a few minutes in a quick oven.

Custards for Clear Soup

4 yolks of eggs 1 gill consommé or water

Beat the yolks in a basin, stir in the consommé or water. Add a little salt. Strain through a hair sieve into a shallow mould. Steam it until well set. Let it become quite cold. Put out on a wet cloth. Cut in squares or fancy shapes. Part of the custard may be coloured green with spinach colouring.

Force-meat Balls

1 cup of meat of any kind 1 tea-spoon finely chopped parsley 1 salt-spoon thyme 1 tea-spoon lemon juice 1 yolk of egg (raw) 1 table-spoon flour 1 ” butter

Chop the meat very fine, season it highly, and add the lemon juice, thyme and parsley. Moisten with the yolk of egg. Roll into small balls. Flour them well. Melt the butter in a shallow pan. When it is brown add the balls. Fry until brown.

Green Colouring

Pound some spinach in a mortar and put it through a hair sieve. Put the juice in a sauce-pan and boil it until it curdles. Put through a very fine sieve. Bottle.

Potato Balls

(For Potato or Clear Soups)

2 potatoes 1 oz. butter 1 table-spoon thick cream 1 egg

Boil the potatoes. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter and cream. Season. Stir over a good fire until of a stiff consistency. Remove from the fire and put in a basin. Add the yolk of an egg and the beaten white. Form into small balls. Drop into boiling water. Boil two or three minutes.

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare or Rabbit

4 ozs. meat 2 ozs. bread-crumbs 2 ozs. butter 1 whole egg and 1 extra yolk

Chop and pound the meat. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little milk or broth. Mix all thoroughly together. Season. Pass through a sieve. Form into balls. Drop into boiling water or broth and simmer for three minutes.

The best meat should always be reserved for making quenelles.

Quenelles of Marrow

4 ozs. marrow 4 ozs. fine bread-crumbs 1 egg ¹⁄₂ tea-spoonful finely-chopped parsley

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. Season. Roll in the hand in small balls. Boil in a little broth for fifteen minutes.

Rice

1 cup of Carolina rice 2 quarts boiling water 1 table-spoon salt

Wash a cup of rice thoroughly. Drain it. Throw it into a large sauce-pan of salted boiling water and let it boil as fast as possible for twenty minutes. Do not stir. Drain. Put into cold water for ten minutes. Drain again. When required warm it by steaming, or set it in the oven, leaving the door open.

Savoury Rice

(To serve with Clear Soup)

Prepare the rice as above. Add to it one cup of rich stock which has been highly seasoned. Steam to warm. Add a table-spoon of butter just before serving.

OR,

Add a table-spoon of chopped onion which has been fried a rich yellow in a table-spoon of butter, to the cooked rice. Moisten with a cup of stock and steam for ten minutes.

Rice Balls

(For Cream of Rice or Clear Soups)

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice 1 oz. butter 1 oz. grated Parmesan 2 yolks of eggs 1 whole egg

Boil the rice until quite soft. Drain it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter, cheese and yolks. Stir continually for five minutes. Season. Take off the fire. Turn out of the sauce-pan to cool. When cold, make into small balls. Beat the whole egg. Roll the balls first in a little flour, then in the egg. Fry in very hot lard till a rich yellow.

Sauces

There is, of course, no end to sauces, and in a book of this size it is impossible to do justice to their variety. Enough are, however, I hope, given in the pages that follow for ordinary needs.

It is of the highest importance in making sauces that the materials used should be of the best. Fresh butter and the finest olive oil should be used.

When adding the yolks of eggs to sauces it is best to do so in a _bain marie_ (_i.e._ to stand the sauce-pan in which the sauce is being made, inside a larger one full of boiling water), as they must never be allowed to boil, and a quick fire easily burns them.

For thickening sauces, etc., see remarks on soup on p. 12.

Hot Sauces for Fish

PAGE

Black Butter 112

Dutch Sauce 112

Genoese Sauce 113

Italian Sauce 113

Maître d’Hotel Sauce 114

Melted Butter 114

Anchovy Sauce 114

Cucumber Sauce 114

Egg Sauce 114

Shrimp Sauce 114

Oyster Sauce 115

Sauce Hollandaise 115

Black Butter

(For Skate, grilled Mackerel)

1 gill vinegar 4 ozs. butter Several small parsley leaves Small piece of bay leaf

Boil the vinegar with the bay leaf until it is considerably reduced.

Heat the butter in a pan until it becomes brown. Add the parsley leaves. Let them fry for a moment. Skim the butter.

Remove the bay leaf from the vinegar. Add a little salt and pepper. Pour the butter and parsley leaves into it. Mix and serve.

Dutch Sauce

Butter, size of an egg 1 tea-spoon flour ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream Juice of half a lemon 2 yolks of eggs

Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Stir in the flour and mix till perfectly smooth. Add the milk or cream. Boil for two or three minutes. Add lemon juice, and just before serving, stir in the two yolks. After which do not allow the sauce to boil.

Genoese Sauce

(For Fillet of Sole)

1 oz. butter 2 table-spoons olive oil 2 yolks of eggs 1 table-spoon vinegar

Put the oil and butter into a sauce-pan on the fire and stir till the butter is melted. Beat the yolks slightly. Add the vinegar to them. Season. Directly the butter is melted add the yolks and vinegar, stirring continually over a _bain marie_ until the sauce thickens. Half a tea-spoonful of mustard may be added.

Italian Sauce

(For Mackerel, etc.)

2 table-spoons olive oil 1 oz. butter 6 chopped mushrooms 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tea-spoon chopped parsley 1 clove 1 wine-glass white wine 10 drops Liebig’s extract of meat

Put the butter and oil into a sauce-pan. Add the mushrooms, shallot, parsley and the clove. Cook for a few minutes. Add the wine and Liebig. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Season. Pass through a sieve.

Maître d’Hotel

4 ozs. butter ¹⁄₂ pint milk 1 tea-spoon flour 1 dessert-spoon finely chopped parsley Juice of a lemon

Mix the flour and butter together till smooth. Melt in a sauce-pan. Add the boiling milk. Let all boil for three or four minutes, stirring constantly. Add the parsley and lemon juice.

Melted Butter

1 tea-spoon flour 4 ozs. butter 1 gill boiling milk or water

Mix the flour and butter thoroughly in a basin. When perfectly smooth put in a sauce-pan. Add to it the boiling milk or water. Let it boil for two or three minutes. Stir continually from left to right. Season.

To this sauce the raw yolk of an egg or a finely chopped hard boiled egg, shrimps, a little essence of anchovy, or a table spoon of grated cucumber may be added; when it becomes egg, shrimp, anchovy or cucumber sauce. To the cucumber sauce add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice.

Oyster Sauce

2 doz. oysters 3 ozs. butter 1 tea-spoon flour ¹⁄₂ pint cream 1 coffee-spoon lemon juice

Prepare the oysters and stew them in their own juice and the butter until plump and tender. Mix the flour with the cream, until perfectly smooth. Bring to the boil and let it boil two or three minutes. Add it to the oysters, etc. Stir quickly together. Season with salt, a little cayenne and the lemon juice.

Sauce Hollandaise

4 table-spoons vinegar 1 blade mace 1 tea-spoon flour Yolks of 4 eggs 3 ozs. butter

Season the vinegar, add to it the flour and mix perfectly smooth. Add the mace. Bring to the boil and boil for two or three minutes. Take off the fire, and take out the mace. Add the butter cut in small pieces, and the well-beaten yolks. Stir continually, in one direction, over a _bain marie_. Serve directly the butter is melted.

Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.

PAGE

Brown Sauce 118

Cucumber Sauce 118

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce 119

Maître d’Hotel I. 120

” ” II. 120

Mushroom Sauce 121

Onion ” 121

Sauce Béarnaise 122

Sauce for Chops and Steaks 122

Sauce Piquante au Citron 123

Sauce Robert 123

Sauce Vinaigrette 124

Tomato Sauce 124

Brown Sauce or Cullis

3 lbs. lean veal 1 lb. raw lean ham 1 oz. butter 6 mushrooms chopped 1 carrot chopped 1 onion chopped Rind of a lemon Small bouquet of herbs 1 tea-spoon allspice 1 quart brown stock ¹⁄₄ lb. brown roux

Slice the veal and ham. Add the vegetables, spice, lemon rind and herbs, and brown slightly in a sauce-pan with the butter. Add the stock and brown roux (see p. 13). Boil ten minutes. Stir continually. Put through a tammy.

Cucumber Sauce

1 cucumber 2 table-spoons brown stock 1 oz. butter 1 table-spoon chopped parsley Juice of half a lemon ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce

Peel and split the cucumber lengthwise in four pieces. Take out the seeds. Cut in small pieces. Put into salted water and boil gently for seven minutes. Take off and drain. Melt the butter and add to it the stock, cucumber and parsley. Cook gently for half-an-hour. Add the brown sauce and lemon juice.

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce

(For Roast Beef or Steak)

1 tea-cup horse-radish ¹⁄₂ pint water 3 ozs. butter 3 table-spoons flour 1 gill cream 4 yolks of eggs 3 table-spoons elder vinegar

Scrape the horse-radish very finely, and boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain off the water. Cook the horse-radish with the butter and flour for four minutes. Add the water in which the horse-radish was boiled, stirring continually. Heat. Take off the fire. Add the hot cream and then the beaten yolks. Beat well together. Add pepper, salt and the vinegar.

Maître d’Hotel--I

2 ozs. butter 1 table-spoon chopped parsley Juice of half a lemon

Melt the butter. Skim it. Add the parsley (and, if liked, a little finely chopped shallot), salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Maître d’Hotel--II

4 shallots 1 tea-spoon chopped parsley 1 tea-spoon chopped fennel 1 dozen mushrooms 2 ozs. butter ¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce or béchamel

Chop the shallots. Put them with the parsley, fennel and mushrooms in a sauce-pan in which the butter has been melted. Cook gently for five minutes. Add the brown sauce or béchamel (see pp. 118 and 126). Boil ten minutes. Season and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Mushroom Sauce

2 dozen small mushrooms 1 oz. butter 1 table-spoon flour 1 pint good gravy ¹⁄₂ a lemon

Cook the mushrooms in the butter until brown and tender. Add the flour. Stir well in and brown. Pour the gravy over the mushrooms. Boil three minutes. Season and add a little lemon juice.

Onion Sauce

(For Roast Mutton)

4 onions ¹⁄₂ pint melted butter (see p. 114)

Slice and chop the onions finely. Boil until tender. Drain and add to the hot melted butter. Season. If preferred, the onion can be first passed through a fine sieve and then added to the melted butter.

Sauce Béarnaise

5 yolks of eggs 2 ozs. butter 1 table-spoon chopped tarragon 1 dessert-spoon vinegar

Put the yolks in a sauce-pan, in a _bain marie_, and stir into them one ounce of butter. As soon as the eggs begin to thicken, take off the fire. Add another ounce of butter, the tarragon and vinegar. This sauce should be of the consistency of a mayonnaise. Serve with roast meats.

Sauce for Chops or Steak

2 table-spoons red wine 2 table-spoons ketchup 1 tea-spoon butter 1 tea-spoon vinegar

Stir altogether in a sauce-pan. Season and serve very hot.

Sauce Piquante au Citron

(For Calf’s Head)

2 table-spoons chopped onions 1 oz. butter 1 table-spoon flour 1 gill white stock 1 gill white wine 1 lemon

Fry the onion in the butter, with the flour, until a rich yellow. Add to it the stock, which should be boiling, and the wine. Stir together. Add the juice of the lemon and a little of the grated rind. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve.

Sauce Robert

(For Pork)

3 onions 1 gill rich brown gravy 1 tea-spoon made mustard 1 tea-spoon vinegar 2 ozs. butter 1 table-spoon flour

Chop the onions. Fry them in the butter. Add the flour. Mix quite smooth. Add the gravy, salt and pepper. Simmer for half-an-hour. Skim. Add the mustard and vinegar. Serve with pork.

Sauce Vinaigrette

4 table-spoons vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 table-spoon brown sauce 1 table-spoon chopped shallots 2 table-spoons chopped gherkins 1 table-spoon capers 1 table-spoon chopped parsley 1 oz. butter

Boil the vinegar for quarter of an hour with the bay leaf. Add the sauce (see p. 118). Simmer five minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Add the shallots (which should have been previously cooked in the butter and allowed to drain upon a sieve), capers, gherkins and parsley.

Tomato Sauce

6 tomatoes ¹⁄₂ an onion chopped 1 clove 1 slice of ham 1 gill rich brown gravy 1 table-spoon brown roux

Remove the seeds from the tomatoes. Stew them with the onion, ham and clove in an enamel sauce-pan until well cooked. Rub through a tammy. Return to the sauce-pan. Add the gravy and brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer for quarter of an hour.

Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.

PAGE

Apple Sauce 126

Béchamel Sauce 126

Bread Sauce 127

Celery Sauce 127

Gooseberry Sauce 128

Lemon Sauce 128

Parsley Sauce 129

Sauce à la Reine 129

White Sauce 130

Apple Sauce

Set the required quantity of sour apples, pared, cored and sliced, in a small pan inside a large sauce-pan containing boiling water. Let the water boil quickly until the apples are done. Mash them and add sugar to taste.

OR,

Pare, quarter and remove the core of several sour apples. Put them a sauce-pan with a little water. Boil up quickly. Do not stir until cooked. Then add sugar and mash.

Béchamel

1 lb. veal 2 slices ham 2 pints water ¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms 1 onion Bouquet of herbs 5 table-spoons white roux 1 pint of cream

Slice the veal, ham, mushrooms and onion and stew them gently for an hour and a half in the water. Thicken with the roux (see p. 12). Add the cream. Boil for two or three minutes, stirring continually. Strain.

Bread Sauce

¹⁄₂ pint milk 1 tea-cup bread-crumbs 1 onion 2 pepper-corns 1 tea-spoon butter

Slice the onion and boil it in the milk with the pepper-corns until very tender. Strain off the milk and add it to the bread-crumbs which should be made from stale bread and be very finely grated. Allow the sauce to stand covered for a few minutes. Add the butter. Stir in thoroughly. Season and serve very hot.

Celery Sauce

1 large head of celery ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream 1 table-spoon white roux

Use the best of the celery only. Cut it in small pieces. Cook it in water until very tender. Put through a sieve. Add it to the cream or milk. Thicken with a small table-spoon white roux (see p. 12). Season.

Gooseberry Sauce

(For Duckling or Goose)

1 gill spinach juice ¹⁄₂ pint stock ¹⁄₂ pint gooseberries 1 table-spoon sugar 1 tea-spoon butter

Cook the gooseberries till tender. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan on the fire. Add the sugar (more if preferred) and butter. When thoroughly mixed, add the stock with which the spinach juice (see p. 104) has been mixed. Make very hot.

Lemon Sauce

(For Rabbit or Fowl)

1 lemon 1 liver of fowl or rabbit ¹⁄₂ pint melted butter 1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Cook the liver, pound it and put it through a sieve. Peel the lemon, cut the inside, from which the pips must be removed, into very small dice-shaped pieces. Add the lemon and liver to the melted butter. Heat gently, but do not boil. Add the parsley.

Parsley Sauce

Small bunch of parsley ¹⁄₂ pint melted butter

Boil the parsley for five minutes. Drain. Chop finely. Add to the melted butter.

OR,

To one gill of water in which a fowl has been boiled, add one gill of cream, one dessert-spoon white roux (see p. 12), seasoning and the boiled and chopped parsley.

Sauce à la Reine

¹⁄₂ pint veal stock ¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms Small bouquet of herbs ¹⁄₂ an onion ¹⁄₂ pint cream Breast of a fowl Juice of half a lemon 1 tea-spoon flour

Let the veal stock simmer for half-an-hour with the mushrooms, onion, and herbs. Then strain. Thicken with the flour. Boil two or three minutes. Add the boiling cream. Set back on the fire and add the finely pounded breast, lemon juice and seasoning. Do not allow the sauce to boil after the chicken has been added.

White Sauce

1 gill veal or chicken stock 1 gill cream Juice of half a lemon Juice of half a Seville orange

Mix all together. Heat gently, stirring continually. Season.

Hot Sauces for Game, etc.

PAGE

Cream Sauce 132

Game Sauce 132

German Sauce 133

Madeira Sauce 133

Orange Sauce 134

Sauce Poivrade 134

Sour Cream Sauce 135

Cream Sauce

The gravy from two roasted birds 1 gill cream

Stir the cream into gravy of the birds with which it is to be served. Season. Add a few drops of lemon.

Game Sauce