Part 3

Add the bones and carcase of the fowl, the onion, celery and seasoning to the water in which a fowl has been boiled. Simmer till reduced to one quart. Strain and thicken with a white roux of butter and flour. Add the liaison of cream (or milk) and eggs.

Put the cooked carrot and peas in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.

White Veal Soup

2 lbs. knuckle of veal 1 quart water 1 onion Half pint of milk or cream 2 yolks of eggs 1 table-spoon butter 1 ” flour

Wipe the veal and cut it into small pieces. Cover with cold water and heat slowly, skimming constantly. Season with salt, three or four pepper-corns, and a chopped onion. Simmer for three hours until reduced by half. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Put in the stew-pan again, and when boiling thicken with white roux made of table-spoon butter and a level table-spoon of flour (see p. 12). Add a half pint of milk and eggs. Season again. Serve with fried bread.

Vegetable Purées

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Purée of Asparagus 61

” Black Beans 62

” Broad Beans 63

” Carrots 63

” Endive 64

” Green Peas--I 65

” Green Peas--II 65

” Italian Dried Green Peas 66

” Lentils 67

” Onions 68

” Rice 68

” Turnips 69

” Winter Vegetables 69

When passing vegetables or meat through a tammy or fine sieve, it will be easier if they are kept continually moistened with a little of the stock or milk with which the purée is to be made.

Purées having been passed through the sieve or tammy, can, if not required at once, be set aside until wanted. But a purée that has reached this point must on no account be re-heated or have milk or cream added to it until just before it is to be served. When re-heating, if a meat purée, it should not be allowed to boil, or even be made hotter than is absolutely necessary.

Allow all vegetable purées to boil up quickly for several minutes after the purée and stock have been mixed. This will clarify them. All scum should be carefully removed. When this is done, the butter and milk or cream can be added.

A little white or brown roux well mixed with purées a minute or two before serving will prevent the actual purée from separating from the stock.

Purée of Asparagus

1 bundle of asparagus 1 handful spinach 1 small onion 1 quart white stock ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream 1 oz. butter

Break off all that is tender of each piece of asparagus. Scrape and wash them. Leave them in cold water for half-an-hour. Drain them. Put them in a sauce pan with a handful of spinach and a small onion. When tender take all out and drain again. Add to them a quart of white stock. Season. Boil gently for ten minutes. Put through a tammy. Heat slowly again, season and add the butter and scalded cream. This soup may be deepened in colour by adding a little spinach colouring (p. 104). Serve with croûtons (p. 103).

Purée of Black Beans

¹⁄₂ pint black beaus 1 quart water 1 carrot (grated) 1 onion ¹⁄₂ head celery 1 table-spoon butter 1 ” brown roux 2 ozs. raw ham or salt pork 2 cloves 1 bouquet herbs 1 lemon 2 hard-boiled eggs 1 glass sherry

Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away add _cold_ water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard. Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see p. 13). Just before serving add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.

Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen. Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls (p. 104) also may be served with this purée.

Purée of Broad Beans

1 pint of beans 1 slice of bacon or salt pork 2 sprigs of parsley 3 small onions and one clove ¹⁄₂ head of celery 1 quart water or stock ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream 1 table-spoon butter 1 ” flour

Boil the beans, one onion, parsley, celery and clove, in one quart of water or stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve into a basin, and set aside.

Slice and boil two onions until tender. Drain them. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add the onions and a little nutmeg and fry until a good brown, stirring in the flour and mixing it smooth. Add the boiling milk. Boil for several minutes, stirring all the time. Press through a sieve, and add to the purée of beans. Season. Heat gently. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Carrots

2 large carrots 1 ” onion 1 ” turnip 1 quart beef stock

Scrape the carrots, and slice them finely, using the red outside part only. Slice the other vegetables. Put all together in a sauce-pan with the stock. Cook until tender. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season and add a small lump of sugar. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Endive

3 large endives 1¹⁄₂ pints chicken stock 1 table-spoon white roux ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk 2 ozs. butter

Discard all but the white hearts of the endives. Wash them thoroughly, and boil them in salt water for ten minutes. Drain them and put them to stew very gently for quarter of an hour with the butter, stirring continually. Then add half a pint of white chicken stock, and simmer for an hour. Pass through a tammy. Return to the fire and add a pint more stock. Let it boil up. Season. Add the white roux (p. 12), butter and the boiling cream. Colour with spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Purée of Green Peas--I

1 pint of green peas 1 turnip 1 small onion 1 piece of mint 1 oz. of butter 1 quart brown stock

Stew the vegetables with the butter, one pint of stock, and a little celery seed, until they are quite tender. Rub them through a fine sieve or tammy. Return to the fire. Add the rest of the stock. Season, and add a lump of sugar and spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Whenever possible, use half a head of celery finely chopped, instead of the celery seed.

Purée of Green Peas--II

1 pint of peas 2 small onions 1 cabbage lettuce 1 bouquet herbs 1 quart stock 1 table-spoon white roux 1 gill cream

Stew the peas, onion (sliced), lettuce and a bouquet of herbs in the butter very gently for ten minutes. Add to them the hot stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a tammy. Re-heat gently. Season. Stir in the roux (p. 12) and a gill of cream. Serve with croûtons, or add to the soup some young cooked peas.

Purée of Italian Dried Green Peas

¹⁄₂ pint of peas ¹⁄₂ head of celery 1¹⁄₂ pints of stock or water ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk 1 table-spoon butter

Soak the peas over night. Put them and the celery, chopped, on to boil with the water or stock. Boil till very tender. Put through a hair sieve or tammy. Put back on the fire and heat gently. Season. Colour with spinach colouring. Just before serving add the butter, in small pieces, and, when it has melted, the boiling cream. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Purée of Lentils

1 pint of lentils 1 head of celery 1 onion 1 turnip 1 carrot 1 slice of ham 3 pints stock or water 1 gill of cream

Soak the lentils in water over night. Let the vegetables (which should be cut up) and the ham stew gently in the butter for ten minutes. Strain the lentils from the water they have soaked in. Put them with the ham, vegetables and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for two hours. Strain off the liquid. Pound and mash the lentils, etc., and pass them through a sieve. Return them to the liquid. Boil up again. Add a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, seasoning and the cream, scalded. Serve with fried bread (see p. 103).

Purée of Onions

6 onions 1 small turnip ¹⁄₂ head celery 1 quart white stock 2 ozs. butter ¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk 12 button onions

Cook the large onions, turnip, celery and butter with the stock until very tender. At the same time prepare and boil the button onions until soft. Put the vegetables and stock through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the cream or milk, scalded, and the button onions. Season.

Purée of Rice

4 table-spoons rice 1 pint stock 1 pint milk or cream 1 onion 1 carrot (grated) Bay leaf ¹⁄₂ cup fine bread crumbs 1 oz. butter

Wash and parboil the rice. Add it to the stock with a grated carrot, the sliced onion (which should have been fried a light brown in the butter), and the bread crumbs. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the scalded milk or cream, and season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Purée of Turnip

4 turnips (preferably yellow) 1 large onion 1 carrot 1 piece of celery 4 ozs. butter 1¹⁄₂ pints stock or water ¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

Slice the vegetables finely and stew them in the butter. Add half a pint of the stock hot and simmer until the vegetables are very tender. Put through a sieve. Add the rest of the stock. Heat. Season. Just before serving add the scalded milk or cream.

Purée of Winter Vegetables

1 onion 1 carrot 1 large turnip ¹⁄₂ small cabbage ¹⁄₂ head of celery ¹⁄₂ pint of stewed tomatoes 1 quart of water or stock Bouquet of sweet herb Table-spoon butter 1 gill cream or milk

Chop all the vegetables but the cabbage and tomatoes very fine. Put them in a sauce-pan with the water or stock and boil. Cook the cabbage separately. When the vegetables are tender, add the cabbage. Simmer ten minutes. Add the tomatoes and a bouquet of herbs. Boil for quarter of an hour. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season. Add the butter and the cream.

Meat Purées

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Purée of Fowl à la Reine 73

” ” à la Reine Margot 73

” Hare 74

” Pheasant 75

” Rabbit 75

Whenever a piece of meat or fowl is added to a soup, it must be added as late as possible, and the soup must not be allowed to boil after it has been added, or even made very hot. If it boils the purée will curdle. Should it by accident do so, it is possible to remedy it by adding a little more stock to the soup, putting it all through a tammy again, and then warming it gently.

Purée of Fowl à la Reine

1 large tender fowl ¹⁄₄ lb. boiled rice 1¹⁄₂ pints water ¹⁄₂ pint cream

Roast the fowl. Cut off all the meat from it. Chop it and pound it. Break the bones and carcase of the fowl. Put them and the skin in a sauce-pan with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour or two. Skim and strain. Add it to the pounded meat. Pass through a tammy. Add the scalded cream. Season.

Purée of Fowl à la Reine Margot

1 fowl 1 quart water ¹⁄₂ pint cream 3 ozs. pounded almonds 1 tea-cup bread crumbs

Boil the fowl in a quart of water. When the fowl is tender, take it out and set it aside. Skim the broth and pour it into a basin. Cut all the meat off the fowl. Chop it very fine and pound it. Add to it the bread crumbs (which must be very finely grated), and the pounded almonds. Put all through a tammy and add to the broth. Season. Add the boiling cream. The yolks of three eggs can also be added if desired (see p. 50).

Purée of Hare

1 small hare 1 quart water or consommé 1 small bouquet of herbs 2 ozs. butter 2 ozs. boiled rice ¹⁄₂ pint Sauterne

Skin and clean the hare. Cut it up into small pieces. Melt the butter in a large sauce-pan. Add the pieces of hare to it with a small bouquet of herbs. Fry them a good brown colour. Add the water or stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the broth. Cut off all the meat from the hare. Chop and pound it. Add the rice. Dilute with the broth and pass through a tammy. Heat the purée gently when required, adding the Sauterne. Season. Serve with fried croûtons.

Purée of Pheasants

1 pheasant 1 quart stock 3 ozs. boiled rice 1 table-spoon glaze

Roast the pheasant until it is thoroughly done. Cut off all the meat. Set aside the white meat. Put the rest with the bones and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour. Chop and pound the meat. Add the rice to it. Dilute with the strained stock. Pass through a tammy. Add the table-spoonful of glaze (see p. 14). Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Rabbit

1 rabbit 1¹⁄₂ pints water 2 ozs. barley or rice (well boiled) ¹⁄₂ pint cream 1 table-spoon brown roux

Roast the rabbit, seasoning it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. When it is done, cut off all the meat. Put the bones with the water to make a stock and simmer an hour or two. Skim and strain. Chop the meat and pound it. When the stock is ready, put it with the meat and barley or rice through a tammy. When ready to serve, heat the purée gently, and add the roux (see p. 12). Season, and add half a pint of scalded cream. Quenelles of rabbit may be served with this purée (see p. 105).

Bisques

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Crab Bisque 78

Lobster Bisque 78

Oyster Bisque 79

Crab Bisque

1 large crab 1¹⁄₂ pints white stock Bread crumbs or rice 2 yolks of hard-boiled eggs ¹⁄₂ pint cream 1 glass white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Take out all the meat, setting that from the claws aside. Pound the rest of the meat with the pulpy part. Add to it about half its weight in fine bread crumbs or boiled rice, and the yolks. Dilute with the stock. Rub through a tammy. Heat very gently, taking care that it does not boil. Season with salt and cayenne. Add half a pint of boiling cream, and, if desired, a glass of white wine, and the shredded meat from the claws.

Lobster Bisque

1 hen-lobster 1¹⁄₂ pints white stock ¹⁄₂ head of celery 2 ozs. butter ¹⁄₂ pint cream or white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Remove the meat from a hen-lobster. Set aside the coral and dry it. Cut up the meat into very fine shreds and fry them for five minutes in the butter, with the chopped celery and pepper and salt. Add the stock and boil for half-an-hour. Drain off the stock. Pound the meat and pass it through a tammy. When required, return the stock and purée to the fire. Heat gently and stir continually, stir in the coral which should have been rubbed through a very fine sieve when dry. Season and add a few drops of lemon juice, the scalded cream or half a pint of hot white wine. Do not allow the bisque to boil.

Oyster Bisque

1 pint oysters 1 pint stock 1 pint milk 1 gill cream 1 blade mace Nutmeg 4 ozs. butter

Boil the oysters gently for quarter of an hour in the stock, adding to it one ounce of butter and the spices. Take off the fire and drain. Set aside the stock. Chop the oysters very fine. Melt two ounces of butter and add them to it. Stir in the flour gradually and smoothly. Add the stock, and a pint of milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring continually. Rub through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add a gill of boiling cream and an ounce of butter in small pieces. Stir the bisque until it is melted, but do not allow it to boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Fish Soups

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Bouillabaisse 82

Fish Soup 83

Oyster Soup 84

Salmon Soup 84

Bouillabaisse

About 3 lbs. of fish 2 onions 2 table-spoons of olive oil ¹⁄₂ a lemon 2 small tomatoes 1 glass white wine 1 laurel leaf 4 pepper corns 1 table-spoon chopped parsley Bread

Wash the fish and cut it across in slices of different sizes. Take a large iron sauce-pan, fry the onions with olive oil in it. When they are coloured a good brown add the fish to the sauce-pan and just cover it with warm water. Add also a laurel leaf, the inside of half a lemon (from which the pips have been removed), two small tomatoes (peeled and the seeds taken out) cut in dice and a glass of light white wine, the pepper-corns and salt. Make up a big fire. Set the sauce-pan on it and let the contents boil violently for twelve to fifteen minutes. Then add a table-spoon of chopped parsley. Let it continue boiling for a minute.

In a warmed soup tureen put a number of slices of roll or bread. Pour the liquid over them. See that they become thoroughly soaked with it. Add the best of the fish and serve.

The best fish to use for Bouillabaisse are cod, whiting, mullet, sole, turbot and langouste. It is absolutely essential that all the fish used should be perfectly fresh.

In France 4 cloves of garlic would be added with the tomatoes, but this is optional.

Fish Soup

1 lb. cod or halibut 1 quart milk 1 sliced onion 1 table-spoon white roux

Cook the fish in boiling salted water until it flakes easily. Drain it. Take away the bones and skin and rub the fish through a sieve. Put the sliced onion in the milk and boil for ten minutes. Remove the onion. Add the white roux (see p. 12) to the milk. Stir till well mixed. Add the fish. Season.

Oyster Soup

1 pint oysters ¹⁄₂ pint water 1 pint milk 1 gill thick cream 1 table-spoon white roux

Cover the oysters with the cold water. After a little while remove them. Strain the liquor. Put it on to boil and skim. When clear add the oysters. Let them simmer until their edges ruffle and their bodies grow plump. (This should take about five minutes.) Take out the oysters, set them where they will keep warm. Add the liquor to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the roux (see p. 12) and seasoning. Simmer five minutes. Add the boiling cream. Add the oysters.

Salmon Soup

¹⁄₂ lb. salmon 1 quart white stock 2 anchovies ¹⁄₂ head of celery A piece of parsley 1 clove 1 gill cream 1 table-spoon white roux

Let half a pound of the salmon stew gently with the chopped anchovies, in two ounces of butter, for twenty minutes, being very careful that it does not brown. Add the stock, the celery, cut fine, parsley, spice and herbs. Bring to the boil. Add the white roux (p. 12). Simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add the boiling cream. Season and serve at once.

Broths

PAGE

Barley Broth 87

Chicken Broth 87

Cockie Leekie 88

Game Broth 89

Hotch Potch 90

Potato Broth 90

Scotch Broth 91

Sheep’s Head Broth 92

Barley Broth

2 lbs. lean mutton ¹⁄₄ lb. barley 2 turnips 2 carrots 1 leek or onion 2 table-spoons chopped parsley 2 quarts of water

Trim the mutton and cut it into small dice-shaped pieces. Put it with the barley in a sauce-pan. Cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Simmer for two hours, skimming from time to time. Add the vegetables, which should be finely chopped, and the parsley. Season. Simmer for forty minutes.

Chicken Broth

1 chicken 1 quart cold water 1 onion 2 table-spoons of rice

Clean the chicken. Separate it into joints, removing all skin and fat. Put it into a sauce-pan and cover with the cold water. Add the onion sliced. Simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove the breast of the chicken from the sauce-pan. Let the rest continue to simmer until the meat comes clean away from the bones. Strain off the broth. Remove the fat. Take two table-spoonfuls of rice which has already been washed and soaked for half-an-hour. Put the broth on the fire again. Add to it the rice. Season. Add the breast of the chicken cut in small pieces. Simmer until the rice is tender. A cup of scalded cream can be added just before serving.

Cockie Leekie

1 fowl 2 lbs. shin of beef or knuckle of veal 2 quarts of water 12 leeks

Skin the fowl and cut it into joints. Put it in a stew-pan with the meat (which should not be cut up) and cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Let it simmer for two hours. Skim. Cut off the coarser part of the leeks, and cut the best parts into pieces about an inch long. (The leeks are improved by being soaked in water for two hours before using.) Add to the soup. Simmer for half-an-hour. Take out the meat and fowl. Cut the breast of the fowl into small pieces and return to the soup. Season.

A tea-cupful of boiled rice can be added if wished.

Game Broth

Two or three birds (any kind of game) 2 quarts of cold water 1 whole carrot 1 whole turnip ¹⁄₂ tea-cup chopped white cabbage 3 potatoes sliced 1 dozen small onions 1 head of celery

Cut the game into small pieces, cover with two quarts of cold water. Add an onion, two carrots, a turnip and several pieces of celery. Bring to a boil. Simmer very gently for four hours. Strain off the broth. Choose the best pieces of meat from the game, cut them up into neat pieces. Add to the broth. Put back on the fire, and add a head of celery very finely sliced, a dozen small onions, and three large potatoes cut in slices. Simmer gently for about three quarters of an hour. Add the cooked chopped cabbage, and simmer another five minutes.

Hotch Potch

2 lbs. lean mutton from the neck 2 quarts cold water 1 large carrot 1 turnip 2 onions 1 cabbage 1 small cauliflower ¹⁄₂ pint of shelled peas

Cut the mutton into dice-shaped pieces, removing the fat and skin. Put it in a sauce-pan with the water and bring to the boil. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Skim. Season. Add all the vegetables, finely chopped, except the cabbage (of which the heart only should be used and which should be cooked separately). Simmer two or three hours. Add the cabbage.

Potato Broth

The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled 1 oz. ham 1 oz. butter 1 small onion 3 large potatoes

Reduce the water to one quart. Strain, and remove the fat.

Chop one ounce of lean ham very fine. Melt an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and in it fry the ham and a small sliced onion until a rich brown. Add this to the broth and simmer thirty minutes. Strain. Season.

Pare and slice three large potatoes. Add to the broth. Bring to the boil. Simmer for forty minutes.

Scotch Broth

2 lbs. scrag end neck of mutton 1 lb. best end ” ” 2 quarts water 2 carrots 2 turnips 3 small onions or 2 leeks Small head of celery 1 table-spoon chopped parsley 3 table-spoons barley which has been soaked several hours

Soak the scrag end in cold water for an hour. Remove the skin very carefully and part of the fat. Put on to boil with two quarts of cold water. When it boils skim it. Set back to simmer for two hours. Strain. Put the strained broth into a sauce-pan. Add to it the best end of the neck, either in cutlets or using the meat only (cut in neat pieces) and the barley. Bring to the boil. Simmer two hours. Skim. Add the vegetables cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Season. Simmer till vegetables are tender. Add parsley.

Sheep’s Head Broth

1 sheep’s head 1 tea-cup pearl barley 2 quarts cold water 3 onions and two cloves 1 turnip 1 carrot Bouquet of herbs Glass of white wine Mushroom ketchup

Remove the brains from a sheep’s head, and clean it. Leave the head in water over night. The next day put the head in a sauce-pan with the water and barley. Bring to a boil. Throw in a little cold water. Skim. Simmer for an hour, stirring from time to time. Add the vegetables, cut up finely, and herbs. Simmer three or four hours until head is tender. Strain off the broth from the head. Put the vegetables through a sieve and add to the broth. Let it stand till cold. Remove the fat. Take the best of the meat from the head. Cut it into small pieces. Put them with the broth in a sauce-pan. Heat gently. Add a wine-glass of white wine and a little mushroom ketchup just before serving.

Broths and Soups for Invalids

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Beef Essence 95

Beef Tea--I 95

Beef Tea--II 96

” ” --III 96

Calves’ Foot Broth 97

Chicken Broth 98

” Custard 98

” Panada 99

Game Panada 99

Chicken Tea 100

Mutton Broth 100