The New Glutton or Epicure

Part 13

Chapter 134,087 wordsPublic domain

When I am in New York I very often take a room at the Waldorf-Astoria because it has become, by common consent, the suburban and country business and social clearing house of the whole United States; and hence, coming from Europe periodically as I do, and always anxious to meet old friends from San Francisco, New Orleans, Boston, Washington, the great cities of the Middle West, or elsewhere, it is more easily accomplished by camping at the Waldorf than in any other way. I cannot be a profitable guest of this or any hotel kept on the European plan, but I try to make up for this deficiency in other ways. Just across Sixth Avenue from the Waldorf, on Thirty-Fourth Street, is one of the most pretentious of the so-called "dairy lunches." In these places good, appetising, wholesome food is served quickly and in _decently small portions_. For this very reason alone, I _prefer_ the crowd and the noise of the dairy lunch to the quiet and the luxury of the Waldorf café or dining-room. One would not object to paying a larger price at the more quiet place of service, but prodigality seems to be the present great American sin. Were it a mere waste of money or even of the food, it would not be worthy of great discussion; for when the fool and his money are parted the laugh is on him with no grain of sympathy, and there already being a great surplus of food in the land, there is no fear of famine. But with this prodigality prevalent, so that to have a decent variety one must have put before him enough for a family, the temptation to grossly overeat is great and the abuse is criminal.

It is the hope of the author that some enterprising Boldt will inaugurate an epicurean service and charge well enough for it to pay for the trouble, or better yet, in proportion to the quantity wanted. In this regard the poor do not suffer directly, but the example of the rich is the perverter of the poor in many ways, and surely in this item of dietetic abuse.

When it comes to quantities of food to be prescribed, the author avoids giving even suggestions. This has been the trouble with the past attempts at reform. Had Luigi Cornaro told us in his autobiography the manner of taking his food with other particulars, instead of giving alone a maximum weight to which he limited himself, he might have saved the world three hundred years of uncertainty and confusion. His twelve ounces of solid food and fourteen ounces of new wine (fresh grape juice) means little. The solid food might have been almost water free or might have contained 50 per cent of moisture. The new wine contained a trifle of sugar and probably more than 95 per cent of water and supplied moisture to the body instead of water. During the Yale tests reported elsewhere, and more fully in the "A. B.-Z. of Our Own Nutrition," the daily ration did not exceed the reported amount of Cornaro, even with the most generous allowance for moisture.

I have steadily refused to prescribe by weight or quantity or to suggest the best kinds of foods for any one, but there are so many questions arising from the publicity already given by the Yale experiment, that it will do no harm to give some outline.

DIET IN THE YALE EXAMINATION OF THE AUTHOR

In the first place the selection of food for this test is no basis of general choice. The analysis of food for its elemental molecule values, and for its heat content, is a very difficult thing to do and takes much time; hence to bring a large variety into a diet during a test would entail enormous labour on the laboratory staff. Knowing this difficulty, when I was requested to choose something which would entirely satisfy my sense of taste gratification so as to best stimulate the flow of the digestive juices, I chose a cereal with a known content value. That is to say, I fed from different brands of cereals, the content value of which was known. A quart of fresh milk a day furnished the moisture required, and was not every day entirely consumed. Maple sugar was the most variable ingredient of the diet in regard to quantity. Of the milk I took nearly or quite one quart each day, of the cereal I averaged about 150 grams, or say 5 ounces, and the demand for the sugar varied from 150 grams to 200 grams, or say 5-7 ounces.

This food was taken in at two meals daily,--12-1 and 6-7 P.M.,--and the time required in taking was 12-14 minutes to the meal, including any delay necessitated in taking notes and in weighing the food. These delays were inconsiderable, however, as facilities for weighing and taking notes were perfected and their use well accustomed by the subject. The 26-28 minutes per day, then, may be set down as the careful but industrious eating time required to satisfy the waste and appetite of a man doing 'Varsity Crew work, as reported by Dr. Anderson and Professor Chittenden.

The activity outside the prescribed gymnasium exercises and any supplementary work consisted of awaking very early in the morning and doing considerable writing upon my typewriter. The agitation of this nutrition investigation has involved an immense amount of correspondence to keep the interest stimulated, and for the exchange of information between the interested parties; hence in addition to serving as test-subject, there was always much else to do to keep from getting hopelessly behind in the work.

The writing began anywhere from four to six in the morning in winter, which was the season of the test, and continued until about seven or eight, when the exercises were commenced and continued until finished. Meantime the mail of the morning had come in and frequently demanded immediate attention, which used up the time until between twelve and one o'clock, when a first-class appetite had been earned (no craving of hunger or "all-goneness" in the common form due to the persistence of habit hunger), and this insured a keen appreciation of taste and fulfilled all the requirements of a healthy digestion. The afternoon was always busy, sometimes with a lengthy walk around town, or a game of billiards when the weather discouraged outside work. The evenings were strenuous or restful, and were usually employed with conversation, reading, or a lecture.

Fortunately the simple food selected continued to be agreeable to the end, and cost an average of only eleven cents per day. When it was given up to accommodate the service furnished by social meals it was missed, the habit of supply having become somewhat fixed and expected by appetite.

In London, in search of the lowest possible economy, the author has subsisted on about half the cost of the Yale supply; and it is entirely possible to those needing strictest economy.

INFLUENCE OF SUGGESTION

A friend of the author, who is an enthusiast in regard to the profitableness of an economic nutrition in assisting the strenuous life, went to lunch with a generous host in New York the other day, when the following conversation about the lunch to be ordered was heard. It partook of Wall-Street brevity, which is thought to be necessary in the rush of a midday snack or meal.

"What will you have? What! only a baked potato and a bottle of ginger ale? All right for a starter; but what are you really going to have? Nothing more! what is the matter with you? Come, now; tell me what you want for lunch? Stocks are badly off, but I haven't reached the starvation point yet. Don't treat me like that when I'm trying to treat you right and white. Brace up, old man, and have something to eat."

The intermediate replies can be imagined as in an overheard telephone conversation.

The host ordered for himself, as usual, a portion of tongue and a generous garniture of side dishes, and watched his guest with amused tolerance. The lunch proceeded, interlarded with talk about topics of mutual interest, and when a final halt was called the host had not taken more than one-quarter of his cold tongue and very sparingly of the accompanying side dishes. The guest had finished one of his baked potatoes, and had sipped his ginger ale enjoyingly, but had not taken more than half of the pint ordered. The appetites of both host and guest were amply satisfied, but without any of the heaviness which follows an unrestrained "hearty" meal. In tones of surprise the one-sided conversation, relative to the strangeness of the proceeding, continued as follows: "Well, I'll be switched! How in Wall Street did that happen! I haven't eaten half my usual lunch, and yet I have killed my appetite deader than the Ship Building Trust. I'm blessed if I can understand it. The blamed thing is uncanny. I don't believe it's true, but I'm satisfied all right even if I am hypnotised. Come and lunch with me every day. You're engaged as a regular companion boarder, and Freddie will pay the freight. You're cheaper than nobody. Come again! Come again!! Come always!!!"

The above is not an unusual case. The personal influence of the author and of his active colleagues has been visibly noted among parties where there was no sympathy with the "starving fad," and where there was even stubborn opposition to the thought of such a thing. But these same groups of non-interested objectors have visibly decreased their accustomed lunches and dinners, and some of them have found that a cup of coffee and a roll, the same as is habitually taken in Europe, outside England, serves as a breakfast better than the full meat affair formerly taken. They persist in declaring that they are not influenced by the chewing suggestion, but they show signs of _some_ restraining influence, and observation reveals that in such groups the common annual and quarterly attacks of illness are less frequently or less severely suffered.

There is no doubt that Luigi Cornaro gave appreciative attention to his four three-ounce meals a day, and in giving attention properly insalivated his food. The inference is warranted. A man full of vigour and health and constructive energy such as Cornaro reports that he had in unusual abundance is not likely to confront a three-ounce ration of delicious food and proceed to bolt it as a dog bolts a piece of stolen meat. It is a matter of easy observation that a child given a single piece of sugar or sweet in any form will make it last as long as possible and get all of the taste out of it by most ingenious conservation; but the same child, if offered a box of "goodies" as it is passed around, or whenever the time given for possession of its contents is limited, will show the greed of a predatory or hunted or habitually maltreated animal and will not only grab as much as possible but will cram all possible into his stomach to satisfy the sense of greed, and then usually suffers the consequences of the double sin in the sickening re-taste of the gases of indigestion.

Cornaro undoubtedly made his three-ounce meals last as long as possible in order to enjoy the maximum of taste, and in so doing satisfied the natural requirements of appreciative attention and thorough insalivation. In like manner two small tumblers of the fresh grape juice (new wine--fourteen ounces), which he took as his sapid liquid in the course of a day in connection with his four meals, would allow only a sherry glass quantity to each meal, and with such a limited supply a person is not likely to toss off the liquid in great gulps as water is drunk to satisfy thirst, but it rather would be enjoyed as the wine-tasters enjoy wine, by their sipping practice, in pursuit of their profession. The influence of visible supply or of passing or permanent opportunity of possession is a most powerful suggestion in the cultivation of economy or prodigality, of greed or moderation, of healthy nouriture or plethoric indigestion.

Man was constructed and intended to hunt his food among the grains, nuts, roots, and other fruits of earth, and in hunting food to earn a keen appetite. He found his food scattered and ate it as he found it, with the true appreciation that difficulty of possession gives. In the primitive state the requirements of natural digestion are safeguarded; but with a plethora of food cooked and spiced and furnished with superfacilities for ingestion, the natural protection of difficulty is removed, and the victims of the luxury drop unconsciously into habits of abuse, like the overeating of to-day.

In order to escape the surrounding temptations it is necessary to have always in mind protective counter-suggestions which intelligently make use of the abundant and easy supply but limit the intake to the needs of the body as expressed by appetite when permitted to discriminate in its natural deliberate manner, and which only keeps pace with the natural dissipation of taste in the process of requisite insalivation. The chewing practice is but a means to this natural end, but it is a most important means, the same now as when teeth were used instead of patent grinders, and when taste took the place of spices and sauces and manufactured its own delights by the chemical action of saliva.

Among the Zuni Indians, observed by even recent travellers, it is the custom of the young girls of the _pueblos_ to masticate wheat up to a given point of sweetness of taste and then to withdraw it from the mouth and collect it in a wooden dish until a sufficient quantity is secured, when the jaw-ground and saliva-sweetened "mess" is baked in the sun or by fire and becomes the "sweet cake" of the family. The change of the starch of the wheat or corn into sugary dextrose by the action of saliva, which is necessary to be done somewhere in the alimentary canal before it is assimilable nutriment, gives the sweet-cake quality to the food which is the dietary delicacy of these primitive people. By proper insalivation we perform the delectable service for ourselves instead of having it done for us by good young teeth aided by healthy saliva furnished by beautiful feminine assistance.

"FLETCHERISING" FOOD

WHAT IT REALLY MEANS

The term "Fletcherising," or "Fletcherizing," as applied to food has come into use without the suggestion of the nominee to a new filtering fame, and promises to spread; hence it is well to explain just what the term means.

Under the so-called "Fletcherizing" process, the mouth becomes a filter with most facile appliances for protecting the delicate alimentary canal from straining and poisoning. Instead of the "Pasteur Filter" for the purification of water and the "pasteurisation" of foods by sterilisation, the "Fletcher Filter" both separates and prepares whatever is given it to treat more perfectly than any mechanical or chemical device can do.

Dr. Kellogg appears in evidence often in this volume, and also with much appreciated strength of indorsement in the "A. B.-Z. of Our Own Nutrition"; but it is because he knows the value of the discovery of the natural food filter, has enormous chance to test it practically, and generously assists the reform with the might of his conviction. Hence the author has still another letter of his in hand from which to quote.

"BATTLE CREEK, MICH., Oct 26, 1903.

"MR. HORACE FLETCHER, NEW YORK.

"DEAR FRIEND:--I have yours of October 4th. I should have answered it before, but have been away from home.

"I appreciate very much your offer to send me a memorandum of the work done in Cambridge, also a plan of the work at Yale. You have had a most interesting experience with eminent physiologists, and it has led you deep into the question of nutrition. I shall appreciate very much suggestions from you with reference to subjects for experimental work, and other suggestions which may occur to you respecting the methods, etc. I am sure your wide experience will be a great help to us. The more I test your ideas the more confidence I have in them.

"What you say about the wonderful effect of mastication is certainly correct. I observed it right away as soon as I began to practise _Fletcherizing_. By the way, I wrote an article for the last number of my journal, GOOD HEALTH, about "Fletcherizing" food, and I see our colleagues are already taking it up. One of my most able associates, Dr. J. A. Read, who has charge of our sanitarium in Philadelphia, gave a lecture last Thursday night to his patients on "Fletcherizing" food, and his audience was greatly interested. I am sure you deserve to have your name immortalised, as Pasteur's has been. I mention "Fletcherizing" in almost every lecture I give to our patients. I think most of our patients are "Fletcherizing" and are getting great good from it, also a large proportion of our six hundred nurses and other employees.

"Awaiting a letter of suggestions at your convenience, I remain,

"As ever your friend,

"(Signed) J. H. KELLOGG."

"Fletcherizing" does not consist only and merely of careful chewing. Careful chewing, with cheerful attention, will secure the comminution, insalivation, and all necessary chemical preparation for perfect digestion, and will separate hard and indigestible matter from the food mass put into the mouth for treatment; but it is the whole environment of the act which counts the best results.

Cheerfulness is as important as chewing; and if persons cannot be cheerful during a meal they had better not eat. Not eating will not hurt them in the least, but lack of cheerfulness will defeat the object of the meal by causing more or less indigestion; and hence it not only _does no good to eat when not cheerful, but actually does harm_. Haste and lack of cheerfulness are about the same in effect on digestion. You have no idea how much real nutriment you can get into your system in five minutes if you are industrious with your munching and are cheerful about it; so don't hurry when you have full ten minutes, or perhaps twenty minutes, for taking nourishment.

You cannot go faster than Nature will let you, and it is profitable to study Nature and watch her constantly for her proper cue. Don't try to get ahead of her or you may sink in mud or into deep water.

Hence the author begs of those who heed his suggestions, especially if they give them his name, to respect them in all their essentials. Don't chew anything when you are mad or when you are sad, but only when you are glad that you are alive and glad that you have the appetite of a live person and one that is well earned.

That is as much a part of the "Fletcherizing" process as munching, and one should never forget it.

So, please, when you "Fletcherize," if you "Fletcherize" at all, do it well and completely and do not half do it and then condemn the method. The method is all right, notwithstanding the name which has been attached to it, for it is simply Nature's method.

Explanation of The A. B. C. Life Series

THE ESSENTIALS AND SEQUENCE IN LIFE

It would seem a considerable departure from the study of menticulture as advised in the author's book, "Menticulture," to jump at once to an investigation of the physiology and psychology of nutrition of the body and then over to the department of infant and child care and education as pursued in the _crêche_ and in the kindergarten; but as a matter of fact, if study of the causation of human disabilities and misfortunes is attempted at all, the quest leads naturally into all the departments of human interest, and first into these primary departments.

The object of this statement is to link up the different publications of the writer into a chain of consistent suggestions intended to make life a more simple and agreeable problem than many of us too indifferent or otherwise inefficient and bad fellow-citizens make of it.

It is not an altogether unselfish effort on the part of the author of the A. B. C. Life Series to publish his findings. In the consideration of his own mental and physical happiness it is impossible to leave out environment, and all the units of humanity who inhabit the world are part of his and of each other's environment.

It would be rank presumption for any person, even though gifted with the means to circulate his suggestions as widely as possible, and armed with the power to compel the reading of his publications, to think that any suggestions of his could influence any considerable number of his fellow-citizens of the world, or even of his own immediate neighbourhood, to accept or follow his advice relative to the management of their lives and of their communal and national affairs; but while the general and complete good of humanity should be aimed at in all publications, one's immediate neighbours and friends come first, and the wave of influence spreads according to the effectiveness of the ideas suggested in doing good; that is, in altering the point of view and conduct of people so as to make them a better sympathetic environment.

For instance, the children of your neighbours are likely to be the playmates of your own children, and the children of degenerate parents in the slum district of your city will possibly be the fellow-citizen partners of your own family. Again, when it is known that right or wrong nutrition of the body is the most important agent in forming character, in establishing predisposition to temperance or intemperance of living, including the desire for intoxicating stimulants, it is revealed to one that right nutrition of the community as a whole is an important factor in his own environment, as is self-care in the case of his own nourishment.

The moment a student of every-day philosophy starts the study of problems from the A. B. C. beginning of things, and to shape his study according to an A. B. C. sequence, each cause of inharmony is at once traced back to its first expression in himself and then to causes influenced by his environments.

If we find that the largest influences for good or bad originate with the right or wrong instruction of children during the home training or kindergarten period of their development, and that a dollar expended for education at that time is worth more for good than whole bancs of courts and whole armies of police to correct the effect of bad training and bad character later in life, it is quite logical to help promote the spread of the kindergarten or the kindergarten idea to include all of the children born into the world, and to furnish mothers and kindergarten teachers with knowledge relative to the right nutrition of their wards which they can themselves understand and can teach effectively to children.

If we also find that the influence of the kindergarten upon the parents of the infants is more potent than any other which can be brought to bear upon them, we see clearly that the way to secure the widest reform in the most thorough manner is to concentrate attention upon the kindergarten phase of education, advocate its extension to include even the last one of the children, beginning with the most needy first, and extending the care outward from the centre of worst neglect to finally reach the whole.

Experience in child saving so-called, and in child education on the kindergarten principle, has taught the cheapest and the most profitable way to insure an environment of good neighbours and profit-earning citizens; and investigation into the problem of human alimentation shows that a knowledge of the elements of an economic nutrition is the first essential of a family or school training; and also that this is most impressive when taught during the first ten years of life.

One cannot completely succeed in the study of menticulture from its A. B. C. beginning and in A. B. C. sequence without appreciation of the interrelation of the physical and the mental, the personal and the social, in attaining a complete mastery of the subject.