Part 67

_Cultivation._ Perhaps no class of plants more easily accommodate themselves to a general system of treatment, than do these; although certain genera would undoubtedly thrive better than when subjected to the lower temperature, suited to the requirements of those coming from cooler regions. Notwithstanding that nearly all the species are natives of the western hemisphere, they occur in various geographical and altitudinal areas, in which the temperature is proportionately lessened or increased, as the case may be; yet, presuming a special house is set apart for their culture, the majority of the species may be happily suited therein. The warmest end of the structure should be selected for the tropical kinds; while those found in cooler regions may be grown in the other portions of the house; even those which are hardy in our climate are really best wintered in a house or frame. Granted that several species will endure our winter outside, it is yet necessary to give them the shelter of a friendly ledge of the rockery, or frame, or to cover them in their permanent position with a hand light, or sheet of glass, in order to prevent the ill-effects of excessive moisture. Generally, a winter temperature of from 50deg. to 55deg., and a summer one of from 70deg. to 80deg. during shade, or in sunshine up to 90deg., will be found advantageous. When thus treated, it will be necessary to keep the tropical species, on the whole, very dry during the winter. As regards soil, potting, and general treatment, all may be treated alike, except _Epiphyllum_, _Disocactus_, and _Pereskia_ (which _see_). Some growers give them the protection of a house in winter, and stand them outside during the summer, which is not, however, a very commendable plan, as, in consequence of the very variable character of our climate being especially prejudicial to several of the tender and more delicate species, the often excessive amount of moisture they would receive, will produce a weakly state of health in many, while others will be lost. It is far better if their culture is attempted at all, to give them the proper treatment. The numerous species and varieties found on the Rocky Mountains are a most interesting series, and may be well managed in a cold frame facing south, arranging them on shelves as close to the glass as possible, and keeping them very dry through the winter. If the weather is very severe, the lights should be matted. One of the best collections of these in the country, is in the possession of E. G. Loder, Esq., Floore House, Weedon, Northampton, where a great number are admirably grown in frames, and under a large ledge of the rockery outside. Amateurs may grow quantities of handsome Cacti either in dwelling rooms near the window, or in small frames or greenhouses. As they are slow growing, not much space will be occupied; at the same time, a great deal of interest will be centred in their culture. As regards watering and insect pests, they are but little trouble. Miniature Cacti, of numerous kinds, are now often sold in small pots, and most attractive little subjects they prove.

_Soil, Drainage, and Potting._ Good ordinary fibrous loam should form about one-half of the compost, the other half should be made up of sand, broken bricks, and lime rubbish in equal quantities; the whole to be carefully mixed together, and not used until it is moderately dry. It is absolutely necessary to ensure perfect drainage; a good "stopper" should, therefore, be placed over the hole at the bottom of the pot, and about one-third of its depth filled with draining material. The best time for potting is during February and March. Turn out the plants, and remove nearly all the old soil from the roots, taking away any dead or decaying roots which may be observable. Place some of the roughest soil next the crocks, and gradually fill the pots with the finer material, well working the same amongst the roots; finally press the soil moderately firm. Do not water for a few days after potting, but syringe every evening, especially if the weather be fine; a little extra heat may be given after potting, to excite new, healthy growth. It will not be necessary every year to repot specimens in large vessels. A good top-dressing, with an occasional dose of weak liquid manure, is all they will require for several seasons.

_Watering._ This must be discriminately managed, especially during the winter; for, whatever their treatment as regards temperature during that season, they must be studiously watered, and anything like a saturated condition of the soil should be avoided. If the temperature is brisk, a little water may be given once a week, or perhaps not quite so often. If the plants are subjected to very cool treatment, water must be sparingly administered during November, December, and January; after which, they should be examined weekly, and very carefully attended to. During the summer months, when in active growth, they will not suffer if watered twice a week; and, on bright afternoons, light syringings may be advantageously given.

_Propagation._ Three methods are adopted, viz., by cuttings or offsets, grafting, and seeds; the former is the plan generally adopted. The cuttings or offsets should be removed with a sharp cut, and laid upon a sunny shelf until the wound is healed and roots are emitted, when they should be potted in sandy soil, and placed with the others. They will thrive freely if kept syringed. Grafting is resorted to with delicate kinds, which, from some reason or another, will not grow freely except upon the stock of a stronger species; and, by this means also, such delicate kinds can be kept from the damp soil, which frequently causes incipient decay. The stocks usually employed are those of _Cereus tortuosus_, _C. peruvianus_, &c., according to the species intended for working; they readily unite with each other. If the scion and stock are both slender, wedge-grafting should be adopted; if both are broad, it is best to make horizontal sections, placing them together and securing in proper position by tying with matting, but not too tightly, or the surface may be injured. Propagation by seeds is not often adopted, as it is a very slow method; they should be sown in very sandy soil, and placed in a semi-shady position until germination commences, when they may be exposed, and very carefully watered.

=CACTUS DAHLIA.= _See_ =Dahlia Juarezii=.

=CADUCOUS.= Falling off soon; deciduous.

=CÆNOPTERIS.= _See_ =Asplenium=.

=CÆSALPINIA.= (in honour of Andreas Cæsalpinus, a celebrated Italian botanist, 1519-1603). Brasiletto. ORD. _Leguminosæ_. An ornamental genus of stove evergreen trees or shrubs, not much grown, on account of the space required and the time the species take to flower. Flowers yellow or red, produced in racemes, having a top-shaped calyx, divided at the end into five parts, the lowest larger than the others; petals five, unequal-stalked, upper one shortest; stamens ten. A mixture of loam and leaf mould suits them best. Cuttings are somewhat difficult to root, but sometimes will succeed if taken off from the mother plant in a growing state and planted in sand, with a hand glass placed over them, in heat.

=C. alternifolia= (alternate-leaved). _fl._ orange, clustered. _l._ alternate, very elegant, compound. Central America, 1868.

=C. brasiliensis= (Brazilian). Brazil Wood. _fl._ orange; racemes rather panicled. _l._ with seven to nine pairs of pinnæ, each pinna bearing about fifteen or sixteen pairs of oval-oblong, obtuse, glabrous leaflets. Brazil, 1739. Plant unarmed.

=C. Sappan= (Sappan). _fl._ yellow, panicled. _l._ with ten to twelve pairs of plane, each pinna bearing ten to twelve pairs of unequal-sided, obliquely oval-oblong leaflets, which are emarginate at the apex. _h._ 40ft. Tropical Asia, 1773. This tree furnishes the Sappan-wood of commerce.

=C. sepiaria= (hedge). _fl._ yellow. April. _l._ compound; pinnæ with about ten pairs of pinnules. _h._ 60ft. India, 1857. SYN. _Biancea scandens_.

=CÆSIOUS.= Lavender-colour, bluish-grey.

=CÆSPITOSE.= Growing in tufts.

=CAFFER BREAD.= _See_ =Encephalartos Caffra=.

=CAFFER TEA.= _See_ =Helichrysum nudifolium=.

=CAFTA.= _See_ =Catha edulis=.

=CAHOUN NUTS.= A name applied to the fruits of _Attalea Cohune_, which yield a valuable oil.

=CAIOPHORA.= _See_ =Blumenbachia= and =Loasa=.

=CAJAN.= _See_ =Cajanus=.

=CAJANUS= (_Catjang_ is the Amboyna name). Cajan. ORD. _Leguminosæ_. A genus of erect stove evergreen shrubs, clothed with velvety pubescence. Flowers yellow, distinctly peduncled, corymbose, racemose; standard sometimes beautifully veined with red. Leaves pinnately trifoliate. A light rich soil suits these plants well. Young cuttings will root in sand, with a hand glass placed over them, in heat; but plants are usually raised from seeds, obtained from the West Indian Islands and India.

=C. indicus= (Indian).* Pigeon Pea. _fl._ yellow, or purple-spotted, in axillary racemes. July. _l._ pinnately trifoliate; leaflets lanceolate. _h._ 6ft. to 10ft. India. (B. M. 6440.)

=C. i. bicolor= (two-coloured). _fl._ yellow. July. _h._ 4ft. India, 1800. (B. R. 31, 31.)

=C. i. flavus= (yellow). _fl._ yellow. July. _h._ 4ft. India, 1687.

=CAJUPUT OIL= and =CAJUPUT-TREE=. _See_ =Melaleuca leucadendron minor=.

=CAKILE= (derived from the Arabic). Sea Rocket. ORD. _Cruciferæ_. A pretty hardy annual, frequently found on sea-shores. It is of easy culture in most sandy soils. Propagated by seed, sown in spring.

=C. maritima= (sea). _fl._ lilac, large, densely corymbose. Summer and autumn. _fr._ a succulent pod, divided, when mature, by a horizontal partition into two cells, the upper containing a single erect seed, the lower a pendulous one. _l._ oblong, deeply lobed, fleshy. Stem much branched. _h._ 1ft. Sea-shores of Europe and North America.

=CALABASH NUTMEG.= _See_ =Monodora Myristica=.

=CALABASH, SWEET.= _See_ =Passiflora maliformis=.

=CALABASH-TREE.= _See_ =Crescentia Cujete=.

=CALABA-TREE.= _See_ =Calophyllum Calaba=.

=CALADENIA= (from _kalos_, beautiful, and _aden_, a gland; in reference to the disk of the labellum being finely beset with glands). ORD. _Orchideæ_. A genus of pretty greenhouse terrestrial orchids from New Zealand and Australia. They should be kept in a cool frame or greenhouse, and carefully watered, when not in a growing state. A compost of peat, loam, and sand, in equal parts, suits them well. Over thirty species are enumerated, but probably none are seen out of botanic gardens.

=CALADIUM= (derivation of name doubtful; probably of Indian origin). ORD. _Aroideæ_. Stove perennials, chiefly grown for the great beauty and varied hue of their leaves. Spathe hood-like, rolled round at the base; spadix, upper portion entirely covered with stamens, but ultimately becoming bare at the extreme top, provided with blunt glands or sterile stamens in the middle, and ovaries beneath; anthers shield-shaped and one-celled; ovaries numerous, two-celled, with from two to four ascending ovules in each cell. Leaves upon long petioles, more or less sagittate, ovate, and usually very richly coloured. Fruit a one or two-celled berry, with few seeds. They are all of easy culture, and grow freely in a humid atmosphere. In March, when the tubers have been kept dry or rested for some time, they may be started into growth again, in small pots, placed in a stove or pit, where a night temperature of from 60deg. to 65deg. is maintained, and syringed daily once or twice at least. As soon as indications of activity are presented, they may be shifted into 4in., 5in., or 6in. pots, or larger ones may be used if good sized specimens are required. If the tubers should be in large pots, it is best to turn them out, dividing if necessary, and placing all the crowns in small pots, from which they can be removed when root action and growth are resumed, and they require more room. Large tubers, if sound, may be divided, and the pieces placed in pots of such sizes as it is desired to grow them in.

_Soil._ Turfy loam, leaf mould, turfy peat, and a little well decomposed manure, in equal parts (not broken up too fine), with a good sprinkling of sharp sand, form an excellent compost, the whole being well incorporated together. Thorough drainage must be insured, as these plants require an abundance of water. After potting, they should be placed in a stove temperature, and kept well moistened by syringing two or three times daily. If accommodated with mild bottom heat at this time, they will make much freer and more vigorous growth than if otherwise treated. Water sparingly at first, but as soon as the leaves expand, increase the supply; and, when the pots are well filled with roots, apply clear liquid manure at every other time of watering. As the season advances, the temperature and humidity of the house should be increased. During bright sunshine, Caladiums should be slightly shaded for a few hours in the middle of the day, with some thin material, just to break the fierceness of the sun's rays; but the more they are exposed to the light at other times during growth, the brighter, richer, and more beautiful will the foliage be. As soon as the plants have attained a good size, some of them should be placed in the coolest part of the house, and partially hardened off; they may then be taken to the conservatory, allowing them a situation free from currents of cold air, and giving water only when really necessary. They may remain here for some time, but care must be taken to return them to the stove before they suffer from cold.

Small neatly grown specimens make beautiful ornaments for table decoration, and their suitability for exhibition purposes is well known, and largely taken advantage of. Towards autumn, and as the foliage begins to fade, the supply of water should be gradually lessened, until all the leaves die down; the pots should then be placed under the stage in the stove, where they can be looked to now and then, and a little water given if required. By no means allow the tubers to get dried up, as is often done; for, if so, they will frequently rot away inside; whereas, kept in a semi-moist condition, even the most delicate can be preserved. In this state, they may remain until the following season. Caladiums will not endure a very low temperature; from 55deg. to 60deg. is as low as they can be safely kept. Very few of those known as "true species" are grown, being superseded, for general decorative purposes, by the numerous hybrids which have been raised of late, principally from _C. bicolor_.

=C. argyrites= (silvery).* _l._ small, sagittate, round colour light green; centre and margins white, with many irregular white blotches scattered over the remaining portion. Para, 1858. One of the smallest and most elegant of the genus, and much esteemed for table decoration. (I. H. 1858, 185.)

=C. Baraquinii= (Baraquin's). _l._ from 20in. to 30in. long; centre deep red; margin dark green. Para, 1858. (I. H. 1850, 257.)

=C. bicolor= (two-coloured).* _fl._, spadix shorter than the hooded spathe, which is contracted in the middle. June. _l._ peltate-cordate, sagittate, coloured in the disk. _h._ 1ft. Brazil, 1773. (B. M. 820.)

=C. Cannartii= (Cannart's). _l._ green, with pale blotches; veins deep red. Para, 1863.

=C. Chantinii= (Chantin's).* _l._ chiefly brilliant crimson, irregularly blotched with white, and margined with dark green. Para, 1858. See Fig. 313.

=C. Devosianum= (Devosie's).* _l._ angular, blotched white and pink. Para, 1862.

=C. esculentum= (edible). Synonymous with _Colocasia esculenta_.

=C. Hardii= (Hardy's). _l._ red-tinged, slightly spotted with white. Para, 1862.

=C. Kochii= (Koch's).* _l._ spotted with white. Para, 1862.

=C. Lemaireanum= (Lemaire's). _l._ green, with whitish venation. Brazil, 1861. (I. H. 1862, 311.)

=C. Leopoldi= (Prince Leopold's).* _l._ green, marbled with red, and blotched with pink. Para, 1864.

=C. macrophyllum= (large-leaved).* _l._ large, palish green, blotched with greenish-white. Para, 1862.

=C. maculatum= (spotted).* _l._ oblong, acuminate, cuspidate, cordate at base, finely spotted with clear white. Plant erect, caulescent. South America, 1820. See Fig. 314.

=C. marmoratum= (marbled).* _l._ broad, peltate, upwards of 1ft. long, sagittate-ovate, acute or shortly acuminate, the two basal lobes being slightly divergent, dark bottle-green, variegated with greyish or silvery angular spots and blotches; petioles terete, greenish, mottled with purple. Guayaquil. SYN. _Alocasia Roezlii_. The variety _costata_ differs from the type in having the midrib (or costa) marked out by a tapering band of silver grey.

=C. Rougieri= (Rougier's). _l._ green, with white spots; the centre pale green, with red veins. Para, 1864.

=C. rubronervium= (red-nerved). A synonym of _C. rubrovenium_.

=C. rubrovenium= (red-veined).* _l._ greyish-green in the centre, with red veins. Para, 1862. SYN. _C. rubronervium_.

=C. sanguinolentum= (blood-red blotched).* _l._ with a white midrib, blotched with red. Amazons, 1872.

=C. Schoelleri= (Schoeller's). A synonym of _C. Schomburgkii_.

=C. Schomburgkii= (Schomburgk's).* _l._ green, with white veins. Brazil, 1861. SYNS. _C. Schoelleri_ and _Alocasia argyroneura_.

=C. S. Schmitzii= (Schmitz's). _l._, centre whitish, with green network; midrib and veins red. 1861. SYN. _Alocasia erythræa_.

=C. sub-rotundum= (half-round). _l._ roundish, spotted with red and white. Brazil. 1858.

=C. Verschaffeltii= (Verschaffelt's).* _l._ somewhat heart-shaped; ground colour brilliant green, entire surface irregularly spotted with bright red. Para.

=C. Wallisii= (Wallis's). _l._ dark olive green, with large irregular shaped spots and blotches of the purest white, and the veins all yellowish-white. Para, 1864.

The following descriptive list of hybrid varieties is, for the most part, a selection from Mr. Bull's catalogue, and contains all of importance: