Part 64

To proceed with the ordinary system of Shield-budding, the stock (see Fig. 287 _a_) should first have a longitudinal and a transverse incision made in the bark, the former about 1in. long. Next, the Bud should be prepared, removing half the leaf (see Fig. 288). Hold the branch with the left hand, and pass the knife from about 1/2in. below, gradually upwards and inwards under the Bud, bringing it out in a similar way at a somewhat shorter distance above. A portion of wood will also be taken out, and this is generally removed the opposite way to that in which the Bud has been cut. By skilful Budders, it is removed by a sort of twitch from either end. Great care must be taken not to pull out the base or root of the Bud at the same time, as this would render it useless. Should the whole come out together, leaving a hollow place under the eye of the Bud, it must be thrown away, and another prepared. The Bud being ready, loosen the bark at the point where the incisions meet, with the ivory knife handle, and insert it by means of the piece of leaf attached. It must then be tied in with soft matting or bast, to exclude air, but not tight enough to injure the bark. Shading from bright sun is advisable for a few days afterwards, and, as soon as the union takes place, the ties must be frequently examined, and loosened if necessary. Some prefer Budding late in the season, in order that the Bud may remain dormant during the winter, and breaking stronger the following spring. Occasionally, they are inserted in spring, just at the commencement of growth. The stocks of the Summer-budded trees should only be allowed a moderate amount of foliage during the autumn, and should be cut back to the established Bud before growth commences in spring.

_Square and Circular Shield-budding_ consists in cutting out a piece of bark of either shape from the stock, and inserting another piece of exactly the same size, containing a Bud, and covering with a bandage, or piece of sticking plaster, all except the eye. This mode is seldom made use of. Inverted T or Shield-budding is preferred in the south of France for propagating Orange-trees, but is not otherwise much used. The only difference is that the transverse incision is made below, instead of above, the other, and the Bud inserted upwards, making it fit with the bark at the point where the stock is cut across.

_Flute-budding_ is sometimes used, and answers well for some trees (see Fig. 289). A cylinder of bark is removed from the stock, and one of a similar size from the scion. containing Buds, is fitted in its place, being carefully made air-tight by means of a bandage or grafting wax. Some prefer splitting the hark, as shown in the illustration. and laying it over the tube or cylinder; but the parts cannot be fitted so well as when it is removed.

_Ring Budding._ By this mode, it is not necessary to cut off the top of the stock. A ring of bark may be removed from any convenient part (see Fig. 290 _b_) and replaced with one containing eyes (see Fig. 290 _a_). The latter should be taken from a little larger branch than the stock, as the bark could then be made to fit better. As in Flute-budding, air must be excluded by means of adhesive paper and bandages or grafting wax.

Budding operations may be performed at any time during the season; but dull cloudy weather, and morning or evening, are most suitable. If the branch, containing Buds, cannot be obtained as required for use, the ends may be placed in water, to keep them fresh; but unnecessary delay should be avoided.

_Stocks for Budding upon._ For the Cherry, the Wild Gean, and seedlings from the Morello. make capital stocks for tall trees and those of moderate growth; and the Mahaleb, or Perfumed Cherry, for small trees for pots, bushes, pyramids, or cordons. For the Plum, the Mussel, Mirabelle, Magnum Bonum, St. Julian, &c., are mostly used for stocks, the Mirabelle being best for small trees. Peaches and Nectarines are generally budded on the Mussel, St. Julian, or Mirabelle Plums; the last are best for dwarfs. The Apricot is budded on the Mussel or Mirabelle Plums, for small plants; and the St. Julian Plum for standards. In France, the Damas Noir, or Black Damask, and the Cerisette, are also used. They should all be raised from seeds, and not from suckers. Seeds for raising plants for stocks may be sown as soon as ripe; but where quantities are used, the stones are thrown into heaps, so as to slightly ferment during winter. In the spring, they are sown in drills or beds, and transplanted the next year in rows 2ft. or 3ft. apart. and 10in. or 12in. from plant to plant. The dwarfs are generally budded the second year, and the standards the third or fourth. Dwarf trees are budded from within a few inches of the ground to 1ft. above; standards and riders from 3ft. to 9ft.; cordons, pyramids, &c., can hardly be budded too low.

_Rose Budding._ Propagation of Roses by Budding is very extensively practised both with standard trees and dwarf plants. It is perhaps easier and more certain to succeed with these than with fruit trees; but the mode adopted is precisely the same--that of the shield-shaped Bud with the core, or root, and the bark attached. For standards, the common briar of the Dog Rose is the best. The earlier these are obtained and planted in November, the better, as roots are then formed at once. For dwarf plants, the Manetti stock is mostly used, being easily obtained and had in proper condition almost at any time when Buds are ready. Plants on this stock do not succeed in all soils, and suckers are also very liable to be produced. Budding on the seedling briar is attended with good results, and is practised more than hitherto. The De la Grifferaie stock is also used, more for Tea Roses than others, and is considered by some to produce better plants than the Manetti. The shoots on standard briars should be reduced to about three of the strongest, selected as close together as possible, and near the top, the briars having been previously cut back the desired height at planting time. Two Buds are sufficient for a good head; but, for certainty, three may be inserted. Fig. 291 represents a tall briar with three shoots; _a_ shows the shoot slit for the Bud; _b_, the Bud inserted; _c_, the Bud tied in. Fig. 292 is a branch showing Buds, the lowest ones of which are most suitable, being in firmer wood. Those at the top are often useless. Fig. 293 represents a Bud taken from Fig. 292, _a_, _b_, and Fig. 294 gives an idea of how the wood is removed. As previously remarked when describing the system, experienced Budders remove the wood from either end. Fig. 294 shows its removal from the lower end.

Budding as close as possible to the main stem is most desirable. Raffia grass is superior in every way for tying, which should be performed as soon after the Bud is inserted as possible. It requires much care, and, of course, the Bud itself must be entirely free. As soon as the Buds swell, the tying material should be loosened, and the top of the stock cut back to the level of the budded shoot. By Budding late, the Buds lie dormant till the next spring, and the necessity of tying the young shoots is dispensed with for that season. The shoots of the briar in advance of the Rose Buds must be cut back, as shown in Fig. 295, so soon as the Buds are safely established. The Manetti and other dwarf stocks are budded on the main shoot nearly close to, or underneath the ground, and if low enough to cover part of the rose stem when grown, the latter often roots as well and assists the stock. Being small, they may be grown in pots and removed to the required position at any time.

Dog Roses, used for standards, are usually collected from hedgerows, and sold at about 8s. per hundred. Manetti stocks are increased by cuttings, which, after making one season's good growth, will be fit for use. Briars are raised from seed, which may be collected from hedges, and sown in the autumn, in drills. The seedlings should be transplanted the first year after sowing, and the following season they will be ready for working.

=BUDDING KNIVES.= The best Budding Knives are those manufactured by Messrs. Saynor and Co., and Messrs. G. Hall and Son. They are made with handles of ivory, shaped in different ways at the end, for the purpose of opening the bark, in order to insert the Bud. Some of the blades are made with the edge rounded at the point, so as to cut the bark without the knife entering the wood underneath (see Figs. 296 and 297). Others, which may be used for Budding, and are much better for ordinary use for cutting flowers, &c., are made with the edge of the blade carried to a point, as in ordinary knives (see Figs. 298 and 299). Another form has the handle made of some other material, and a piece of ivory inserted for opening the bark; this is represented in Fig. 300. The first-named is the best, if required for Budding only; the second is the most useful for ordinary purposes, and answers admirably for Budding as well. None of the other shapes have any material advantages over these.

=BUDDLEIA= (named after Adam Buddle, who is so often mentioned in Ray's "Synopsis"; his collection of dried British plants is preserved in the British Museum). ORD. _Loganiaceæ_. A large genus of stove, greenhouse, or half-hardy shrubs. Flowers small, often tomentose, axillary, spicate, capitate, or thyrsoid; calyx equally four-toothed; corolla tubular-campanulate, regular; limb spreading, four-toothed. Leaves opposite, reticulately veined. Branches quadrangular.

The species most extensively grown is _B. globosa_, which, among all our other shrubs, is quite unique; but it is only in the southern or favoured counties of England where it can be fairly termed hardy. It is readily propagated by cuttings or by seeds. The latter should be sown in a gentle heat the spring following the ripening, when they will vegetate pretty freely. With careful treatment and nurturing in pots for the first winter, in a frost-proof pit or house, they may soon be grown into elegant plants. Cuttings of the ripened wood, put in under bell glasses or hand lights, in a cool but frost-proof pit, will root slowly during the winter. They will root all the surer and quicker if each cutting has a heel of older wood attached to that of the current year's growth. They are best inserted in fine sand or in very sandy soil, and require but little water until rooted. As soon as fairly calloused over or rooted, their further progress may be much advanced by potting them off, and plunging them in a bottom-heat of 60deg. or 65deg. This is by no means an essential to secure success, but it hastens it, and promotes growth in an extraordinary manner. The surface temperature should range about the same as the bottom-heat. Under such treatment, the plants will be quite fit to place out about the middle of July. A warm, sheltered situation should be chosen, and a light, rich soil prepared for them; and if dry weather ensues, they only require water. South or west walls are, without doubt, the best situations for them. In all cool or unfavourable localities, much may be done to ensure success by planting on a dry bottom, and on poorish soil. A loose, free-and-easy style of training suits the plants best. This enables them to yield a great number of their peculiarly formed, distinct, and beautiful flowers; whereas, anything like a close, trim course of pruning or of training reduces the flowers to the lowest number.

Throughout the southern parts of England, and, indeed, in many places in the north, _B. globosa_ makes an excellent bush for the shrubbery. It is only during severe winters that it gets badly cut.

For the other presumably hardy species much the same plan as the foregoing may be adopted. The greenhouse and stove kinds may have the same routine of culture usually employed with plants requiring similar temperatures.

Stove species, except where specified otherwise.

=B. americana= (American). _fl._ yellow; spikes disposed in a terminal panicle, nearly 1ft. long; glomerules nearly globose, size of a sloe, on short peduncles. August. _l._ ovate, acuminated, narrowed at the base, serrately crenated. _h._ 8ft. to 12ft. Peru, 1826.

=B. asiatica= (Asiatic).* _fl._ white, small, disposed in long, dense racemes. _l._ lanceolate, finely serrated. _h._ 3ft. India, 1874. A graceful and sweet-scented shrub. SYN. _B. Neemda_. (B. M. 6323.)

=B. crispa= (curled). _fl._ lilac, with a white eye; numerously produced in long terminal branching spikes, forming a pyramidal head about 5in. long. March. _l._ ovate-lanceolate, crenately curled; lower ones cordate at the base; superior ones rounded, all thick and wrinkled, clothed with soft tomentum on both surfaces. _h._ 13ft. Western Himalayas. Half-hardy. (B. M. 4793.)

=B. globosa= (globose).* _fl._ orange, or honey-colour; heads large, terminal, globose, pedunculate. May. _l._ lanceolate, acuminated, petiolate, crenated, 6in. long. Branches sub-tetragonal, clothed with hoary tomentum, as well as the under side of the leaves. _h._ 15ft. to 20ft. Chili, 1774. Hardy in most places. (B. M. 174.)

=B. Lindleyana= (Lindley's). _fl._ purplish-red, hairy; disposed in terminal racemose spikes. September. _l._ ovate, shortly petiolate, serrate. Branches angular, glabrous. _h._ 6ft. China, 1844. Half-hardy. (B. R. 32, 4.)

=B. Neemda= (Neemda). A synonym of _B. asiatica_.

=BUDS, FLOWER.= These are developed like Leaf-buds, from which they differ chiefly in containing one or more incipient flowers within the leaves--the flowers being wrapped up in their own floral-leaves, within the ordinary leaves, which have their outer covering of scales. If a Bud be gathered from a Lilac or Horse-chestnut very early in spring, all the rudiments of the future flowers and leaves will be found within it, though the Bud itself may not be more than half-an-inch long, and the flowers not larger than the points of the smallest pins.

=BUDS, LEAF.= These consist of rudimentary leaves, surrounding a growing vital point, and appear like a collection of scales arranged symmetrically one above the other. Leaf-buds universally originate in the horizontal or cellular system, and are formed under the bark at the extremity of the medullary rays, and at the margin or on the surface of leaves, whether perfect or rudimentary. Deciduous trees lose their leaves, but in the axil of each a little Bud previously forms, from which fresh leaves expand the following spring. In some cases, as in the Horse-chestnut, the Buds are covered with a gummy exudation. In Privet-trees, Leaf-buds are generally smaller and more elongated than Flower-buds.

=BUETTNERIA= (named after David Sigismund Augustus Byttner, once a Professor of Botany in the University of Göttingen). ORD. _Sterculiaceæ_. Erect or scandent stove or greenhouse shrubs. Flowers small, usually dark purple; calyx and corolla valvate; umbels simple, disposed in something like racemes or panicles, rarely in corymbs. Leaves simple. All are of easy culture in a compost of loam and peat. _B. dasyphylla_, _hermanniæ-folia_, _microphylla_, and _scabra_, are occasionally met with, but they are hardly worth growing.

=BUETTNERIEÆ.= A section of _Sterculiaceæ_.

=BUFF-TIP MOTH= (_Pygæra bucephala_). This large and beautiful Moth is very common in many districts; it is easily recognised by the buff-coloured tips of the fore-wings--whence its common name; the head, and body between the wings and abdomen, are ochreous. According to Newman's "British Moths," "the caterpillars, when full grown, are about an inch and three-quarters long, and sprinkled with silky hairs; the general colour yellow, with black head, black lines running from the head to the tail, interrupted by a transverse orange band on each ring, and a black horny plate above the tail segment." They feed on the leaves of the Lime, Elm, and Oak, among other trees, and apparently the only remedy is that generally adopted in exterminating caterpillars, viz., to shake the branches which are infested, when the pest will be quickly dislodged, and fall to the ground. Miss Ormerod is of opinion that "as the caterpillars come down the tree to the ground for their change to chrysalids, it might be worth while to throw a few spadefuls of gas-lime, or of anything they would not cross, in a circle at about a yard from the tree; or a rough band of any material soaked in tar, or tar and oil, which would keep wet longer, would stop them from straying off ... and they might be cleared in sufficient numbers so as to considerably lessen future attack." This plan of prevention deserves a trial in any place where the destructive caterpillars of these Moths abound. It is almost a hopeless task to destroy them altogether when once established on the trees, such specimens as large Oaks being often almost or wholly denuded of foliage.

=BUGLE.= _See_ =Ajuga=.

=BUGLOSSUM BARRELIERI.= _See_ =Anchusa Barrelieri=.

=BUGWORT.= _See_ =Cimicifuga=.

=BULBIFEROUS.= Bearing bulbs.

=BULBINE= (from _bolbos_, a bulb). ORD. _Liliaceæ_. A genus of rather pretty hardy, or nearly hardy, herbaceous or bulbous plants, allied to _Anthericum_. Flowers showy, fragrant; perianth with spreading segments. Leaves somewhat fleshy, narrow. Stems short. They are all of easy culture in a compost of sandy loam. The bulbous-rooted species are increased by offsets, and the herbaceous sorts by suckers and divisions. The only species which can be grown satisfactorily in the open air is _B. annua._ All the others should be grown in the greenhouse, but may be placed in the open during the summer months.

=B. alooides= (Aloe-like).* _fl._ yellow, disposed in a terminal panicle. April. _l._ fleshy, tongue-shaped, lanceolate, flat on both sides. _h._ 1ft. Cape of Good Hope, 1732. SYN. _Anthericum alooides_. (B. M. 1317.)

=B. annua= (annual). _fl._ yellow; scape racemose. May, June. _l._ fleshy, subulate, rounded. _h._ 9in. Cape of Good Hope, 1731. An annual species, the seeds of which should be sown in a gentle heat during spring, and the seedlings may be transplanted to the open when large enough to handle. SYN. _Anthericum annuum_. (B. M. 1451.)

=B. caulescens= (caulescent).* _fl._ yellow. March. _l._ fleshy, rounded. Stem shrubby, erect, branched. _h._ 2ft. Cape of Good Hope. 1702. A shrubby species, which should be propagated by cuttings, placed under a hand glass. SYN. _B. frutescens_. (B. M. 816.)

=B. frutescens= (shrubby). Synonymous with _B. caulescens_.

=BULBOCODIUM= (from _bolbos_, a bulb, and _kodion_, wool; referring to the woolly covering of the bulbs). ORD. _Liliaceæ_. TRIBE _Colchiceæ_. A very pretty little bulbous plant, much resembling the _Crocus_, from which it differs principally in having a superior ovary and six stamens. It is amongst the earliest of spring-flowering plants, the flowers preceding the foliage; and, like the majority of bulbs, delights in rich sandy loam. In such positions, they multiply rapidly from offsets. It is a good plan to take up the bulbs, divide, and replant them every second year, selecting in autumn, and renewing the soil or planting in new positions. Few plants prove more welcome in the garden, in February, than _B. vernum_, either in beds, patches, or masses.

=B. Aitchisoni= (Aitchison's). A synonym of _Merendera Aitchisoni_.

=B. Eichleri= (Eichler's). A synonym of _Merendera caucasica_.

=B. trigynum.= A synonym of _Merendera caucasica_.

=B. vernum= (spring).* _fl._ violet-purple, with a white spot on the claw; long, tubular, funnel-shaped, two to three from each bulb; preceding the appearance of the leaves. Very early spring. _l._ usually three in number, broadly strap-shaped, concave, and surrounded at the base by well-developed sheaths. Bulb black, oblong. _h._ 4in. to 6in. Spain, 1649. See Fig. 301. There is a variety with the leaves striped white, which is also desirable.

=BULBOPHYLLUM= (from _bulbos_, a bulb, and _phyllon_, a leaf; referring to the leaves issuing from the apex of the pseudo-bulbs). SYNS. _Anisopetalum_, _Bolbophyllum_, _Tri-brachium_. ORD. _Orchideæ_. Of this rather large genus of orchids but few are worth cultivating except as curiosities. Racemes long or spike-like, very rarely one-flowered or sub-umbellate; sepals usually nearly equal and free; lip jointed to the foot of the column. They are of easy culture when grown on small blocks of wood with a little moss, and suspended in a warm part of the house; the roots require a good supply of water. Propagated by dividing the pseudo-bulbs.

The following comparative few of the aggregate number of species already introduced are really all that are worth the cultivator's attention; what the botanist often regards as being very pretty, &c., does not always appear such in the eyes of the grower.

=B. barbigerum= (bearded).* _fl._, sepals and petals greenish-brown; lip covered with dark-coloured hair, and so loosely attached at the base as to be moved with the slightest breath. Sierra Leone, 1835. A curious dwarf-growing plant, with dark green leaves and pseudo-bulbs. (B. R. 1942.)

=B. Beccarii= (Beccari's). _fl._ light brownish and painted with violet; lip brown, with a violet hue, proceeding from a rhizome at the base of the leaf (just below the small pseudo-bulb), and at once turning downwards; racemes dense, cylindrical, nodding. _l._ three, 25in. long, 18in, across, very thick. Rhizome 20in. long. Brazil, 1879. A remarkable and gigantic climbing species; the odour of this plant is intolerably fœtid and the leaves are larger than those of any other known orchid. This species requires plenty of heat. (B. M. 6517.)

=B. Lobbi= (Lobb's).* _fl._ large; sepals and petals yellow, the upper part spotted with purple; solitary, on radical scapes. Summer. Java, 1845. (B. M. 4532.)

=B. maculatum= (spotted). _fl._ prettily spotted, _l._ long, obtuse, bright green. India.

=B. reticulatum= (netted-leaved).* _fl._ in pairs, white, striped inside with purple; lip spotted with the same colour. _l._ somewhat heart-shaped, with the nerves of a deeper green than the rest of the leaf, giving it a beautifully reticulated appearance. Brazil, 1866. Perhaps the handsomest of the genus. (B. M. 5605.)

=B. saltatorum= (dancing). _fl._ greenish-brown, lasting some time in perfection. Winter. _h._ 6in. Sierra Leone, 1835. (B. R. 1970.)

=B. siamense= (Siamese).* _fl._ pale yellow, striped with purple; lip yellow, streaked with purplish lines. A very pretty species, closely allied to _B. Lobbi_, but with longer and stouter leaves. Pseudo-bulbs ovate. Siam, 1867. Should be grown in a pot of peat and sphagnum.

=BULBOSTYLES= (from _bolbos_, a bulb, and _stylos_, the style). ORD. _Compositæ_. A. small genus of stove evergreen plants, now referred to _Eupatorium_.