Part 1

Transcriber Notes

● Obvious typos and punctuation errors corrected. ● Variations in spelling, hyphenation and recipe titles kept as in original. ● Ditto marks in the table of contents and appendix replaced with the words they represent. ● The list of utensils and costs in the appendix was spread over multiple columns and pages in the original, with sub-totals and carried forward totals. Since the various digital formats do not have fixed pages, the arbitrary intermediate totals have been left out. ● Italics are represented by underscores surrounding the _italic text_. ● Small capitals have been converted to ALL CAPS.

THE ECONOMICAL JEWISH COOK:

A MODERN ORTHODOX RECIPE BOOK FOR YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS.

Especially adapted as a Class Book for Schools.

ARRANGED BY

MAY HENRY, A.A.,

CERTIFICATED NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL FOR COOKERY,

AND

EDITH B. COHEN,

CERTIFICATED NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL FOR COOKERY.

_THIRD EDITION._

LONDON: WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CIRCUS PLACE, LONDON WALL, E.C.

1897.

_PRICE (Bound in Boards) ONE SHILLING AND SIXPENCE._ (_Special Prices for Schools._)

Third Edition.

_REVISED AND ENLARGED._

Dedicated

WITH GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

TO

MRS. LIONEL LUCAS.

PREFACE TO FIRST AND SECOND EDITIONS.

Admirable as are many of the Jewish cookery books already before the world, they assume the use of ingredients and processes too expensive for ordinary use. The want of an orthodox book, dealing with the preparation of economical dishes, has been keenly felt by us during the last few years, and it is this that has led us to think our little handbook may be of service.

In compiling it we have had before us three special objects: 1, To adapt it to our peculiar dietary laws; 2, To make it suitable for young housekeepers; and 3, To fit it for use in the cookery classes now fairly started in our midst.

We cannot claim absolute originality for all our recipes, and indeed have many authorities to thank for kind help in our task. We feel convinced, however, that many recipes, which have been treasured for years in manuscript, will prove new and attractive to some at least of our readers. In this hope we have overstepped one of our limitations by including a few old-fashioned, high-class recipes, and some special hints on Passover and Invalid cookery.

We have stated in all cases the _approximate_ time required for the preparation of each dish; but it must be remembered that, under different conditions, the time will vary.

The Appendix is based on our experience in actual teaching in schools, and will, we hope, be of use in the formation of new cookery centres.

As “the proof of the pudding is in the eating,” we only ask that judgment may be suspended till some of our recipes have been tried.

MAY HENRY. EDITH B. COHEN.

_December, 1888._

PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.

The really unexpected success of our little book has induced us to thoroughly revise it, and add to it a large number of new recipes. We trust that this will increase its usefulness, and give our readers as much pleasure in referring to the book as we have had in altering it and bringing it up to date.

MAY HENRY. EDITH B. COHEN.

_January, 1897._

CONTENTS.

PAGE HINTS TO YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS ix. CHAPTER ON KOSHERING xi.

SOUPS. Hints on making soup and stock 1 Two ways of making fresh stock 2 White stock 2 Soup, to clear 2 Green pea soup 3 Julienne soup 3 Kugel 3 Liver soup 4 Mock turtle soup 4 Mulligatawny soup 4 Mutton broth 5 Oxtail soup 5 Tomato soup 5 Savoury ingredients for soups 6 (_sundries_, _frimsels_, _drop dumplings_, _custards_)

MILK SOUPS. Artichoke soup 7 Cabbage soup 7 Celery soup 7 Haricot soup 7 Potato soup 8 Turnip soup 7

CHEAP SOUPS. Barley soup 8 Brown onion soup 8 Carrot soup 9 Lentil soup 9 Split pea soup 9 Spinach soup 9 Vegetable soup 10

FISH. Buy, how to 10 Bake, how to 10 Boil, how to 10 Broil, how to 11 Frying, hints on 11 Fry, how to 11 Steam, how to 11 Anchovy butter 12 Cod, savoury 12 Haddock, baked 12 Haddock, dried 12 Plaice and tomatoes 13 Soused herrings 13 Sole à la maître d’hôtel 13 Sole au gratin 13 Sole and tomatoes 14 Stewed fish, brown 14 Stewed fish, white 15

SIMPLE WAYS OF USING COLD COOKED FISH. Curried fish 16 Fish cake 16 Fish cakes 16 Fish pie 17 Fish quenelles 17 Fish soufflée 17 Halibut crême 17 Kedgeree 18

MEAT. Buy, how to 18 Bake, how to 18 Boil, how to 18 Roast, how to 19 Beef à la mode 19 Beef smoked 19 Beef steak, to grill 19 Beef steak pie 20 Beef steak pudding 20 Beef stewed shin of, with 20 dumplings Beef with French beans 21 Beef with haricot beans 21 Beef braised 22 Brain fritters 22 Brazilian stew 22 Chops, to grill 19 Dripping, to clarify 22 Fat, to clarify 23 Irish stew 23 Liver, to fry 23 Liver, fritters 23 Mutton, braised leg of 24 Mutton, cutlets 24 Mutton, haricot 24 Mutton, breast of, stuffed 27 Pillau 24 Poor man’s goose 25 Sausage meat fritters 23 Sausage rolls 25 Sausage and rice 25 Sheep’s head, boiled 26 Sheep’s hearts, roasted 26 Steak, stewed 26 Tongue, salt or smoked 27 Toad-in-the-hole 27 Veal, stewed knuckle of 27 Veal, breast of, stuffed 27

SIMPLE WAYS OF USING COLD COOKED MEAT. Curry 28 Hash 28 Macaroni mutton 29 Meat croquettes 29 Patties of cold meat 29 Potato pie 29 Potato surprise 30 Ragout of beef 30 Rissoles 30 Salt meat salad 30 Tomato pie 31 Tomatoes, stuffed 31 Vegetable marrow, stuffed 31 Walnut stew 31

VEGETABLES. Hints on preparing 32 Beetroot, baked 32 Beans, broad 32 Beans, French 32 Beans, French à la maître 33 d’hôtel Beans, haricot 33 Cabbages 33 Cauliflowers 33 Carrots, stewed 33 Celery, stewed 33 Colcannon 33 Greens 33 Green peas, boiled 34 Green peas, dried 34 Jerusalem artichokes 34 Potatoes, baked 34 Potatoes, baked under meat 34 Potatoes, boiled 34 Potatoes, fried 35 Potatoes, mashed 35 Rice, boiled 35 Savoys 33 Spanish onions 35 Spinach 35 Turnip tops 35 Vegetable marrow, fried 35

SALADS AND PICKLES. Bean salad 36 Cabbage salad 36 Cauliflower salad 36 German celery 36 Lettuce salad 36 Onions, pickled 37 Potato salad 37 Red cabbage, pickled 37 Russian salad 37 Salad cream 38

SAUCES AND SYRUPS. Almond milk 38 Bread sauce 38 Caper sauce for boiled mutton 38 Caper sauce for fish 38 Cheap sauce 39 Clarified sugar 39 Egg sauce 39 German sauce 39 Jam sauce 39 Lemon sauce 39 Marmalade sauce 39 Mayonnaise sauce 40 Melted butter 40 Mint sauce 40 Onion sauce 40 Piquant sauce 40 Tartare sauce 40

PIES, PUDDINGS, AND SWEET DISHES. Pastry, Hints on making 41 Pastry, short crusts 41 Pastry, flaky 41 Pastry, rough puff 41 Puddings, to bake 42 Puddings, to boil 42 Puddings, to steam 42 Almond pudding 42 Apples, baked 43 Apple snow 43 Apple dumplings baked 43 Apple fritters 43 Apples in custard 44 Apple jelly 44 Batter (for frying) 43 Batter pudding 54 Bread pudding 44 Cocoanut pudding 44 Date pudding 45 Ebony jelly 45 Eve pudding 45 Fig pudding 45 Fruit pie 45 Fruit pudding, boiled 46 Fruit pudding, baked 46 Fruit stewed 46 Gooseberry fool 49 Gooseberry jelly 46 Homœopathic pudding 46 Lemon creams 47 Lemon dumplings 47 Madeira cake pudding 47 Marmalade pudding 47 Mincemeat 48 Pancakes 48 Pears, stewed 48 Plum pudding (economical) 48 Plum pudding (Scotch) 49 Prunes, stewed 49 Rhubarb fool 49 Rhubarb stewed 49 Roly poly 49 Silk pudding 49 Suet pudding 49 Swiss fritters 50 Swiss roll 50 Treacle and ginger pudding 50 Treacle pie 51 Yorkshire pudding 51

MILK PUDDINGS. Apples in custard 51 Batter pudding 55 Bread and butter pudding 51 Cocoa mould 52 Cocoanut custard 52 Custards, boiled 52 Custard pudding 52 Derby pudding 53 Macaroni pudding 53 New Year tartlets 53 Pancakes 54 Queen of puddings 54 Rice pudding 54 Sago pudding 54 Sweet omelet 54 Tapioca pudding 54 Trifle (cheap) 54 Yorkshire pudding 55

BREAKFAST DISHES. Cauliflower au gratin 55 Chocolate 55 Cocoa 56 Cocoa nibs 56 Coffee 56 Eggs, boiled, _see_ coddled 56 Eggs, coddled 56 Eggs, fried 57 Eggs, hard-boiled 57 Eggs, poached 57 Eggs, savoury 57 Eggs, stewed with peas 58 Eggs, stirred or buttered 58 Hominy 58 Macaroni cheese 58 Mushrooms 58 Peas stewed with eggs 58 Porridge 59 Risotto 59 Salmagundy 59 Savoury omelet 59 Tea 60 Toast 60 Tomatoes, fried 60 Welsh rarebit 60

BREAD AND BISCUITS. African shoots 60 Bola 61 Bread 61 Bread unfermented 62 Buns 62 Butter cakes 62 Candied peel drops 62 Chocolate cake 63 Chocolate drops 63 Cocoanut drops 63 Cornflower cake 63 Dough cake 63 Hanucah cakes 64 Lemon cheese-cake mixture 64 Oatmeal biscuits 64 Orange cake 64 Plum loaf 65 Scones 65 Shrewsbury biscuits 60 Spanish biscuits 65 Spice cakes 65 Vinegar cake 65 Yorkshire tea-cakes 66

SWEETMEATS. Chocolate caramels 66 Cocoanut candy 66 Ginger lee 67 Toffee 67

INVALID COOKERY. Arrowroot, cup of 67 Barley water 67 Beef tea, raw 68 Beef tea, strongest 68 Beef tea, whole 68 Calf’s foot jelly 68 Chicken, boiled 69 Chicken, broth 69 Chicken, roasted 69 Cornflower, cup of 67 Cornflower, blanc mange 69 Gruel 70 Lait de poule 70 Lemonade 70 Mutton broth 70 Toast water 70

PASSOVER DISHES. Batter pudding 70 Cocoanut custard 71 Fish, fried 71 Fish, stewed 71 Grimslichs 71 Motza kleis 71 Motza pudding, baked 71 Motza pudding, boiled 72 Potato pastry 72 Potato pudding 72 Sassafras 72 Swiss roll 72 Lightning cakes 72

APPENDIX. Formation of Cookery Classes 73 List of Utensils for Classes 74 Hints on Cleaning Kitchen 76 Utensils

SPECIAL HINTS FOR YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS.

1. In making soups or gravies which require colouring the outer skins of the onion should be left on. Mushroom skins are also useful for this purpose, and impart a pleasant flavour.

2. When thickening soups, gravies, etc., mix the flour, cornflour, arrowroot, etc., to a smooth cream with _cold_ liquid first, then stir continually from the bottom and against the sides of the saucepan or other vessel to prevent lumps.

3. The dripping from roast mutton, when used for making pastry, sometimes has an unpleasant flavour. If a few drops of vinegar and of oil be beaten up with it, it will be found quite as good as beef dripping.

4. Home-dried herbs are much cheaper than bought ones. About June buy the herbs, rinse them slightly in cold water, strip off the leaves, place the various kinds of herbs on separate pieces of white paper, in the oven or on top of it. When the leaves are quite crisp, rub them through a wire sieve, and bottle them up tight.

5. When chopping onions, let cold water run on the wrists for a minute. This will prevent the eyes from watering.

6. When the juice of lemons is required, and the lemons are hard, place them on a baking sheet in the oven for a few minutes; they will become quite soft. To keep them from getting mouldy, wrap each one in tissue paper, and keep separate.

7. Stale scraps of bread should be put in a tin in the oven, and baked a nice brown. When quite crisp, they should be pounded and bottled. These “raspings” will be found very useful.

8. Bread should be kept in a glazed earthenware pan, which should have a cover, and must be cleaned frequently.

9. To disguise the disagreeable odours which often ascend from the kitchen during the process of cooking, throw a handful of cedar dust on the top of the grate. (This—called “Dust of Lebanon”—may be obtained of most stationers at about 4d. per packet.)

10. Milk is the best thing for removing _fresh_ ink stains, but it must be applied immediately, and the stained part washed.

11. A little powdered sugar sprinkled on a fire, which is almost out, will invariably revive it. Salt sprinkled on a fire clears it for grilling, roasting, etc.

12. House flannels should be herringboned all round before they are used. This ensures their lasting longer, and prevents sinks being stopped up by the ravellings.

13. It is a decided economy to order soap in large quantities. It should be cut up when new, and stored for several weeks in a warm place to dry. Candles also last longer if kept some weeks.

14. All stores should be kept in air-tight tins or glazed jars.