Part 7

In a climate where no hurricanes destroy the crops, where the medium temperature is about 54°, where health and longevity seem to hold their court, and where there exist the greatest essentials towards culture, (viz. clay, lime-stone, sand, and manure, in the greatest abundance,) I really cannot see why this now neglected, and comparatively desolate, island, should not become a perfect paradise! That health should be a common blessing among the natives, does not appear wonderful; because they have not the means of excess, at least not in drinking; for wine, and spirits, are most exorbitantly dear. I happened to be at Governor Brooke’s on New Year’s Day, 1800, when intelligence was brought that the whole of the troops were plunged into the deepest affliction, by the loss of a cask of rum, served from the stores as the usual basis of annual festivity: in rolling up towards the barracks, the cask had burst, and spilled every drop of its precious contents. This, in any other situation, would not have given a moment’s uneasiness; the deficiency might have been easily made up: but, at St. Helena, where the most sparing economy, in regard to all articles of subsistence, is indispensably necessary, and where no private suttlers could fill up the blank, it was really a most uncomfortable circumstance!

It cannot be expected, after the above detail, that provision should be cheap, or abundant: so far the reverse, that persons of all ranks daily receive their rations from the stores, as indispensable towards their existence. Hence, sheep, poultry, flour, &c. are rarely procurable, in any quantity, for the supply of the homeward-bound shipping; which, being sometimes detained for months, waiting for convoy, occasions their passengers to be put to considerable expence, without deriving proportionate comfort; valetudinarians being the only strangers, who, in such cases, experience the smallest benefit from the detention.

It would be difficult to state the expences incident to residence at any of those houses where lodgings are let: which includes all, excepting about half a dozen of the seniors on the island: the rates vary according to the demand at the moment, or the expectation of early arrivals. It may be concluded, that cheapness neither is, nor can be, the characteristic of James Town, when I observe, that, merely for the use of an apartment, such as nothing but the change of scene would have induced me to occupy, wherein I occasionally slept on a truck-bed, whereof the whole apparatus might safely have been sent to the paper mills, the charge made was twelve shillings daily, or rather nightly; for I never ate a meal in the house. Let it not be understood that I speak this in derogation of the people: far otherwise; I experienced all the civility they had the opportunity of shewing, and I really believe they regretted their want of means to render my slumbers more refreshing.

Their exertions might, perhaps, have obtained me a more comfortable lodging, but there were other matters far beyond their power to remedy: among these may be noticed the myriads of cock-roaches, (or _blatta gigantea_,) which at night crawled about the bed; offending not only by the very unpleasant sensations produced by their claws, but by their peculiarly nauseous scent. As for rats, of no small breed, nor, indeed, confined to one species, they made as free, at all hours, as though they had paid for their lodging, and absolutely seemed to approach with perfect indifference: their gallopings, not only within the walls, but over me as I slept, together with some very unceremonious pulls at my hair, (for I then used powder,) at length compelled me to sleep, when opportunity offered, on board the vessel, wherein our stock of these devastators, though not insignificant, was considerably less numerous, and far more reserved. We had, however, abundance of cock-roaches, about two inches in length, and an inch broad; but, owing to the pains taken to catch them by means of saucers filled with oil, of which they are extremely fond, their numbers were greatly reduced; but we could never hope for their extirpation, as every crevice afforded them shelter, and the opportunity of depositing their eggs in safety.

It may be asked why I did not move to some other house? In reply thereto, it will be only necessary to observe, that I was recommended to the good folks, or they to me, (I forget which) by a gentleman to whose urbanity and kindness I was under much obligation: besides, I was daily in hopes of quitting the island; therefore judged it most expedient to remain where I was, lest I might, by avoiding Scylla, stumble upon Charybdis. There are one or two shops in James Town, where goods of various descriptions are sold. I had occasion to buy a hat, for which I paid ten dollars, and on my arrival in England found that it could never have stood the exporter in more than twelve shillings, even under a salt-water invoice. But it was the best that was for sale, and I was compelled to the purchase.

Such ships as have touched at the Cape, on their return from India, are usually well stocked with every species of provision, and even import their own fuel; according to existing regulations: were they to be supplied with that article, or indeed with any other, to much extent, the distress occasioned to the inhabitants would be deplorable. This deficiency of fuel is occasioned, at present, by the number of wild goats, every where secreting themselves among the crags; during the night time they descend to the plantations, and to the fields, cropping every thing within their reach. Until a war of extermination, as is now proposed, be carried on against these destructive animals, it will be useless to attempt planting, at least on such a scale as should prove beneficial to the inhabitants. It may justly be supposed, that no weak measures could produce so desirable a result; but it is reasonable to conclude, that, if a party of soldiers were to be posted daily on those superior points whence the goats could be seen and alarmed; and if a number of half-bred greyhounds were to be kept to run them down, much might be done in the course of a few years; especially if a reward were given for every goat destroyed, by whatever means.

Yams and potatoes are cultivated in tolerable quantities on various parts of the island; but the former will not grow except in very choice situations, such as vallies through which streams flow. In Major Smyth’s grounds, an immense variety of our esculents were to be seen, growing luxuriantly: I recollect his pointing out to me a peculiarity regarding the leek, and the onion, in both which he had been frequently disappointed, after planting them to stand for seed. As an experiment which did not promise success, he sowed the little seed vessels which form the globular head of the stems; and found, that, by so doing, he could insure a regular, and very rapid succession. He cut off the heads, and separated the capsules, when they were in their green state, but rather inclining to maturity.

Having undoubted proof of the readiness with which many plants, indigenous to the cold, as well as to the hot, regions, may be naturalized at St. Helena, it must excite some surprise to be informed, that no public measures have yet been taken to stock the island with a variety of quick-growing and useful trees; which, being collected on favorable spots, might serve as the depôt for future supplies. The various species of palms thrive amazingly, as does the peepul; of which, for a long time, there was only one in the island, and no person could tell whence it came!

It seems curious, that peaches should thrive so luxuriantly, and acquire such an admirable flavor, notwithstanding the dryness of the atmosphere: formerly, this fruit was in such abundance, that large quantities used to be given to the hogs. Unhappily, an insect, only to be distinguished by the aid of glasses, was imported with some slips from the Constantia vines: these attacked the peach trees, devouring their bark, and destroying at least nine-tenths of their number. It is said, that every means have been tried to annihilate these minute plunderers, or to deter them from their wonted attacks, but without effect. I recollect, that, about twenty years ago, a premium was given by some association, (probably the society for the encouragement of arts,) to a person who discovered a means of ridding trees from this description of clustering insects. It was very simple; and was effected by boring holes with a gimlet, obliquely downwards, into the body of the trunk, near the ground, and filling them with quicksilver; after which the holes were closed by means of pitch, or plugs of wood. As possibly this has never been essayed at St. Helena, I give it a place under the hope of its proving useful: it is, however, said to render evergreens deciduous.

The teak, and poon trees, both of which are of important service in naval architecture, might certainly be raised to great size in St. Helena. The burghut, or banian tree, might also thrive; but I should except against it as requiring too much nourishment, and exhausting the soil, without being any wise useful as timber. The tamarind tree, though it supplies a large proportion of fruit, has this objection against it, that it is peculiarly unfriendly to all others in its vicinity: no grass will grow under it; and persons who sleep beneath its shelter, or within its influence, are subjected to fevers: its timber is substantial, being hard and heavy, but by no means strong, on account of its tendency to rive, and to start into fissures; especially at those knots whence boughs have been thrown out. The bamboo may be cultivated to very great advantage: it grows, throughout India, on the most elevated situations, and on spots where scarcely a handful of soil is to be found in the vicinity of its roots. The value of this reed, (for it is nothing more, though it reaches to the height of seventy feet, and frequently measures from five to six inches in diameter,) would be incalculable, were it applied merely to making fences; which, in such a climate, would be very durable. An invaluable acquisition would be obtained from its more general culture, especially as it is of very quick growth. But the most important advantages would certainly attend the formation of vine-yards, in such parts as might, by their aspect and soil, be best suited to the purpose. The temperature of the climate is highly favorable, the thermometer averaging, during the summer season, from 76° to 79° and 80°, and rarely falling below 54°. That great enemy to grapes, rain, is not much to be dreaded; though it cannot be doubted, that in proportion as vegetation should be increased by assiduous planting, and by preserving due supplies of water for the upper levels, more dew and more rain would fall: however, not to such excess as to ruin the vine-yards.

Coffee has been found to thrive here; but I much doubt whether it would be an object to cultivate that which is so abundant throughout the West Indies, and which can be so amply supplied from countries, whence it comes as a return for our own manufactures.

The great, at least the primary, object should be to add to the resources of the present inhabitants, and gradually to effect such an excess of provision, of their own raising, as should allow of liberal assistance being given to such ships as might touch at the island; especially to vessels from the South Seas, whither numbers of our whalers now resort, and to such as might, either intentionally, or accidentally, miss the Cape. This may certainly be effected, by active perseverance in a well arranged plan; the difficulties are really few, and the means, of remedy certainly within our power. After maturely weighing the _pros_ and _cons_, no doubt remains in my mind, that, in the course of fifteen or twenty years, St. Helena would not only cease to be a burthen on the parent state; but that it must be able to afford a large portion of its produce to the accommodation of all shipping visiting its roads.

This island cannot boast of a harbour; nor are its Roads so extensive as to admit a very numerous fleet, owing to the small extent of the bank on which ships cast anchor; generally in from six to fifteen fathoms. After the latter depth, the bank falls off so suddenly as to become unfathomable, within a few hundred yards, rendering it necessary to lay in, as close as the surf admits, probably about two cable’s length from the beach. But it is not very easy to get so near in the first instance, on account of a strong current that sets to the north, and the necessity for being close hauled to meet the wind which comes down James’s Valley. It is best to anchor any where about twelve fathoms, and, when the wind lulls, to warp into a better berth.

There is but one landing place, which lies to the left of a shallow inflexion, forming a small bay opposite the sea-line; built nearly on a level with the water, and mounting a very heavy battery, properly equipped for heating shot, and always kept in readiness for service. Not that it would be possible for an enemy to surprize the island, unless the most shameful inattention might prevail in every quarter. All vessels must approach on the south-east; where there are guards, and telegraphs, whereby notice is given full four hours before the northernmost point can be rounded. This, of course, alludes to the day; but, so clear is the atmosphere in general, that even during the night a ship would be discerned at many miles distance.

After passing the southernmost points, it is necessary to keep well in with the shore, which is every where composed of immense masses of rock, without any inlet, or means of disembarkation; even if the tremendous surf should not impede. Here the coast is guarded, or rather watched, by various detachments, stationed at commanding points; where strong batteries are mounted, and the means of communicating intelligence, in the most rapid manner, at hand.

The last battery to be passed, previous to casting anchor, is called Munden’s, and stands immediately between the watering, or landing-place, and a small bay, in which, it is recorded, that a landing was once effected during the night: from my own observation, having often gone in a boat to the edge of the surf at that part to fish, I should think it by no means easy to get ashore in any manner, much more as an armed body intending to capture the island. But, whatever may have been effected in former times, that quarter seems now so well guarded as to leave no cause for apprehension, of a surprize at least: nor does there appear the smallest danger of a landing being effected at the watering place; where a very small party might oppose the boats of a whole fleet. The swell is here very great, rendering it a matter of some hazard when jumping into, or out of, a boat; besides, only one boat can come to at a time, in a position suitable to hostile purposes; and it is not to be supposed, that the battery above, or that on the landing-place, or the sea-line, or the works on Ladder Hill, would be silent upon such an occasion. Certain destruction awaits every person who falls into the water in this part; where the sharks are as numerous as they are ravenous. The wall of the wharf is perpendicular, and built on a rock, under which is a tremendous abyss.

The whole of the northern part is composed of rocks naturally scarped in a rugged manner, so as rather to hang over, than to retire from the sea; rising every where from 800 to 2000 feet, and more. Yet, wonderful as it may seem, with such force does the surf break on this leeward side of the island, that the spray, or mist, may be seen constantly ascending, like clouds of smoke, nearly to the summits of the mountains. The residue of the coast is equally bold, and inaccessible; except at a part called Sandy Bay, to the southward. There the shore is nearly flat for some distance, but is interspersed with rocks, and guarded by reefs of breakers, which project some distance, and totally obviate the means of attack. If, however, a landing were to be effected, the guns kept in readiness, in masked batteries on the surrounding heights, would soon defeat the enemy’s purpose.

On account of the difficulty of approach, the several ships take their water in regular rotation, unless when a vessel is under despatch; in which case her boats have the preference. The mode of receiving water is certainly suited to the situation; but is very tedious. The butts being carried in the long-boats to the edge of the wharf, are there filled by means of leathern hoses, of which the ends severally attach to cocks on the pipes that conduct the water to that part. With the upmost assiduity, I should suppose that not more than forty or fifty butts could be supplied to any one long-boat within the course of the day, notwithstanding the shipping lies so close; but, by a regular succession of boats, full 1000 butts might be received.

After landing, the way leads under a very high hill on the left, to the sea gate; within which is a barrier that secures the flank of the sea-line, and defends the road into the town; it is terminated by a gate, where the main guard is posted.

The town is small, and by no means irregular; the houses very low, generally consisting of two and three floors, in all which there are abundance of windows, glazed with small panes, which, on the whole, are not very sightly. The valley, in which James Town is situated, is very narrow, and, in the hot season, extremely sultry. On the right is Ladder Hill, where a very heavy battery is mounted, both of guns and mortars, effectually commanding the road, and the valley, for a great distance. This hill is so steep, that it is ascended only by means of traverses cut out of its side, and enclosed with a parapet sufficient to prevent accidents. The soil is, however, so replete with large loose stones, as to occasion frequent mischiefs to the houses below; of which some have been greatly damaged by the fall of rubbish from above. I imagine, that the ascent, by the road, cannot measure less than a mile; and, that the perpendicular height of Ladder Hill, above the level of the sea, must be full 600 yards.

Major Rennell states the various eminences to be as follow.

Feet.

Cuckold’s Point 2672

Halley’s Mount 2467

Flag Staff 2272

The Barn 2015

(Over-hanging the sea.) The Alarm House (centrically situated) l960

High Knoll (where the Citadel stands, above Ladder 1903 Hill)

Longwood House (residence of the Deputy Governor) 1762

This very elevated part, namely, Ladder Hill, is nevertheless commanded by several small batteries, judiciously situated, which, in their turn, are subject to the fire of the works at High Knoll, built under the auspices of Colonel Brooke, and under the immediate direction of Major Smyth. This little fortification seems to be the _dernier resort_ of the garrison, of which it might hold about two hundred in the several bomb-proofs. It has a small arsenal, reservoir, magazine, a well of immense depth, cut through the rock with great difficulty, and, exclusive of its outworks, which are peculiarly compact, has a central block-house, mounting several pieces of heavy ordnance. The site of this citadel is shewn to be full 1960 feet above the level of the sea: the highest peak in the island is about 2700; but it is too remote to have any effect on the citadel.

The force kept up at St. Helena is, nominally, a battalion of infantry, and four companies of artillery; but I doubt whether, at any time, more than 700 men could be mustered: that number is barely equal to the defence of the several outposts, and to manning the sea-line, Ladder Hill, and the citadel. It is, fortunately, a very healthy spot, and the hospitals are rarely known to contain more than four men in the hundred.

The surrounding ocean supplies abundance of fish; Mr. Brooke describes no less than seventy-six kinds, though few are much esteemed. From the stern of a ship, mackarel, of a small size, together with gar-fish, plaice, a kind of cod, and a very fine species of gurnet, may be caught. The best bait for these is a piece of raw albacore. Chance supplied us with a very excellent stock of craw-fish: under the idea of catching some small sharks, we made a net of spun-yarn, and slung it to a butt-hoop. A few bones of salt beef were tied within for a bait. This we lowered down at night, and occasionally drew up very gently to the surface, the depth being about ten or eleven fathoms. We caught no sharks, but frequently found two or three very fine craw-fishes, of that sort called stumps.

I will now proceed with the regular order of my design, and observe that, if a ship is not to touch at the Cape outward bound, especially when that port is in possession of an enemy, or that hostile cruisers are known to infest the southern coast of Africa, it is not uncommon to run down to the latitude of 38° or 40°, thereby to avoid those dangers, and to get beyond the influence of the current, which sets to the westward at the rate of full three miles per hour. Experience has proved, that, by taking such a course, the voyage has been quicker than when the land has been kept in sight. When the Cape is thus avoided, it will probably be necessary to proceed by the inner passage to the island of Johanna. This is supposed to be the best route that can be followed, by such as are bound to Bombay; though the number of shoals, and of rocks, scattered through the Mozambique Channel, which separates Madagascar from the Main, subjects it to some disrepute. These are, in a measure, counterbalanced during war time, by the danger attendant upon an approach to the island of Mauritius; whence the French have always fitted out a number of privateers, that have done inconceivable mischief among our shipping in the Indian Seas.

A few vessels touch at St. Augustine’s Bay, on the west coast of Madagascar; but the treacherous disposition of the natives is a great objection, and causes the generality to pass on to Johanna, which is the only island of the Comora cluster we have been in the habit of visiting. The strong current setting round its southern extremity, occasions vessels to keep close to the shore as they approach Saddle Island, which, at low water, is connected with Johanna by a ridge of sand, whereon the Huntingdon Indiaman was lost about forty years back, in attempting to pass, without going round Saddle Island; which derives its name from the appearance it bears, when viewed at a certain distance. The whole coast, from the southern point to the bay where the town is situated, presents, with very little exception, a bold shore, divested of those dangerous reefs which render Mohillah, and others of its neighbours, difficult of access. The country is extremely mountainous; in some parts abounding with cocoa and other trees: wild goats are very numerous; but, being much in request among the natives, are very shy, and, in general, retire to the most rugged eminences. To the left of the town, about two miles distant, a long reef of black rocks encloses a bay, of which the beach is covered with a fine sand, shelving very gradually, and bearing a strong resemblance to that of Weymouth.