Chapter 6

The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance, renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol, together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were, by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume "dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly, the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have disappeared.

SYRINGA.--The flowers of the _Philadelphus coronarius_, or common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed "mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, à la fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process. Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum.

THYME.--All the different species of thyme, but more particularly the lemon thyme, the _Thymus serpyllum_, as well as the marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a consequence, they are not considered _recherché_.

When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into the composition of sachet powders.

TONQUIN, or TONKA.--The seeds of the _Dipterix odorata_ are the tonquin or _coumarouma_ beans of commerce. When fresh they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odor of newly made hay. The _Anthoxanthum odoratum_, or sweet-smelling vernal grass, to which new hay owes its odor, probably yields identically the same fragrant principle, and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal grass, while actually growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly aromatic when severed from the parent stock.

Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting, containing, when fresh, a fragrant volatile otto (to which their odor is principally due), benzoic acid, a fat oil and a neutral principal--_Coumarin_. In perfumery they are valuable, as, when ground, they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet, and by infusion in spirit, the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a thousand of the compound essences; but on account of its great strength it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is "snuffy," owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust.

EXTRACT OF TONQUIN.

Tonquin beans, 1 lb. Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.

Digest for a month at a summer heat. Even after this maceration they are still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as POT POURRI, OLLA PODRIA, &c. The extract of tonquin, like extract of orris and extract of vanilla, is never sold pure, but is only used in the manufacture of compound perfumes. It is the leading ingredient in _Bouquet du Champ_--The field Bouquet--the great resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders it a favorite to the lovers of the pastoral.

TUBEROSE.--One of the most exquisite odors with which we are acquainted is obtained by _enfleurage_ from the tuberose flower. It is, as it were, a nosegay in itself, and reminds one of that delightful perfume observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close; consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for compounding sweet essences.

EXTRACT OF TUBEROSE.

Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very fine, is to be placed into 1 gallon of the best rectified spirit. After standing for three weeks or a month at summer heat, and with frequent agitation, it is fit to draw off, and being strained through cotton wool, is ready either for sale or use in the manufacture of bouquets.

This essence of tuberose, like that of jasmine, is exceedingly volatile, and if sold in its pure state quickly "flies off" the handkerchief; it is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this purpose it is best to use one ounce of extract of orris, or half an ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint of tuberose.

VANILLA.--The pod or bean of the _Vanilla planifolia_ yields a perfume of rare excellence. When good, and if kept for some time, it becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it in composition. Few objects are more beautiful to look upon than this, when viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarized light.

EXTRACT OF VANILLA.

Vanilla pods, 1/2 lb. Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.

Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with occasional agitation for about a month; the tincture thus formed will only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is required. In this state it is rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed in the manufacture of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called.

Extract of Vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water, and afterwards filtering.

We need scarcely mention, that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and confectioners for flavoring.

VERBENA, or VERVAINE.--The scented species of this plant, the lemon verbena, _Aloysia citriodora_ (Hooker), gives one of the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the plant; some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be crushed in this act, as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at the plant.

The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing the otto of lemon grass, _Andropogon schoenanthus_, with rectified spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety. The following is a good form for making the

EXTRACT OF VERBENA.

Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Otto of lemon grass, 3 drachms. " lemon peel, 2 oz. " orange peel, 1/2 oz.

After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit for sale.

Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus--it is sold under the title

EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE.

Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Otto of orange peel, 1 oz. " lemon peel, 2 oz. " citron, 1 drachm. " lemon grass, 2-1/2 drachms. Extrait de fleur d'orange, 7 oz. " " tubereuse, 7 oz. Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint.

This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant perfumes that is made. Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief. It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say "it is sour." The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title "Court Bouquet," and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine, with verbena or vervaine in different proportions. In these preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent for them. Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in English. Whether this be due to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or not we cannot say, but think it is so.

VIOLET.--

"The forward violet thus did I chide: Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells, If not from my love's breath?"

The perfume exhaled by the _Viola odorata_ is so universally admired, that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous. The demand for the "essence of violets" is far greater than the manufacturing perfumers are at present able to supply, and as a consequence, it is difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of trade.

Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail perfumers of the West End of London, but at a price that prohibits its use except by the affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion. The violet farms from whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive at Nice and Grasse, also in the neighborhood of Florence. The true smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated: a very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is probably a true impression. Burnett says that the plant _Viola tricolor_ (heart's ease), when bruised, smells like peach kernels, and doubtless, therefore, contains prussic acid.

The flowers of the heart's ease are scentless, but the plant evidently contains a principle which in other species of the Viola, is eliminated as the "sweet that smells" so beautifully alluded to by Shakspeare.

For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet is procured in combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely according to the methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other flowers before mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or by _enfleurage_, the former method being principally adopted, followed by, when "essence" is required, digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol.

Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green color, and, though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain a white fabric, and its odor is perfectly natural.

The essence of violet, as prepared for retail sale, is thus made, according to the quality and strength of the pomade:--Take from six to eight pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it into one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit, allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain off the essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie; it is then fit for sale.

We have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops plain tincture of orris root, done up in nice bottles, with labels upon them inferring the contents to be "Extract of Violet;" customers thus once "taken in" are not likely to be so a second time.

A good IMITATION ESSENCE OF VIOLETS is best prepared thus--

Spirituous extract of cassie pomade, 1 pint. Esprit de rose, from pomade, 1/2 " Tincture of orris, 1/2 " Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade, 1/2 " Otto of almonds, 3 drops.

After filtration it is fit for bottling. In this mixture, it is the extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but modified by the rose and tuberose becomes very much like the violet. Moreover, it has a green color, like the extract of violet; and as the eye influences the judgment by the sense of taste, so it does with the sense of smell. Extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the most popular bouquets, such as extract of spring flowers and many others.

VITIVERT, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass. In the neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the city, this material has an extensive use by being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and sun-shades, called Tatty. During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water over them; this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the atmosphere, in a very agreeable manner, with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert. It has a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers--if such a distinction can be admitted. We classify it with orris root, not that it has any odor resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its odor.

About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is imported, being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, produces the

ESSENCE OF VITIVERT of the shops. In this state it is rarely used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who, perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in "the Eastern clime." The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert, enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as "_Mousselaine des Indies_," for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the zenith of his fame, created quite a _furor_ in the fashionable world.

Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture, as above.

MARECHALE and BOUQUET DU ROI, perfumes which have also "had their day," owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained in them.

Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth, and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders.

Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appearance very much resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in the museum at Kew.

VOLKAMERIA.--An exquisite perfume is sold under this name, presumed, of course, to be derived from the _Volkameria inermis_ (LINDLEY). Whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that plant, or whether the plant blooms at all, we are unable to say. It is a native of India, and seems to be little known even in the botanic gardens of this country; however, the plant has a name, and that's enough for the versatile Parisian perfumer, and if the mixture he makes "takes" with the fashionable world--the plant which christens it has a fine perfume for a certainty!

ESSENCE OF VOLKAMERIA.

Esprit de violette, 1 pint. " tubereuse, 1 " " jasmine, 1/4 " " rose, 1/2 " Essence de muse, 2 oz.

WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English wallflower will meet with a demand.

An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:--

Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint. " vanilla, 1/2 " Esprit de rose, 1 " Extract of orris, 1/2 " " cassie, 1/2 " Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops.

Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting it up for sale.

WINTER GREEN (_Trientalis Europoea_).--A perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made.

ICELAND WINTER GREEN.

Esprit de rose, 1 pint. Essence of lavender, 1/4 " Extract of neroli, 1/2 " " vanilla, 1/4 " " vitivert, 1/4 " " cassie, 1/2 " " ambergris, 1/4 "

We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the processes of _maceration_, _absorption_, or _enfleurage_ for flowers, by _tincturation_ for roots, and by _distillation_ for seeds, modified under certain circumstances.

There are, however, three other important derivative odors--ambergris, civet, and musk--which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them. Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being considered as primitive odors.

On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or of those compound _odors_ sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named.

QUANTITIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS, OR OTTOS, PAYING 1_S._ PER POUND DUTY, ENTERED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION IN THE YEAR 1852.

lbs. Otto of bergamot, 28,574 " caraway, 3,602 " cassia, 6,163 " cloves, 595 Otto of lavender, 12,776 " lemon, 67,348 " peppermint, 16,059 " roses, 1,268 " spearmint, 163 " thyme, 11,418 " lemon grass, } " citronella, } 47,380 And other ottos not otherwise described, } ------- Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year, 195,346

at the duty of 1_s._ per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766_l._ 16_s._

It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually.

There were also passed through the Custom House for home consumption, in 1852--

Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, &c., commonly called "French Pomatums," average value of 6_s._ per pound, and paying a duty of 1_s._ per pound, valued by the importers at £1,306 Perfumery not otherwise described; value £1,920

Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying a duty of 1_s._ each,[D] 19,777

Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 flacons at 8_d._ = 8,000_l._ annually.

The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000_l._ per annum. This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home manufacture of perfumery.

SECTION IV.

PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.

In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin. The first under our notice is--

AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, are the principal places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the cause or effect of the disease.

Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production, which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely quoting the facts known more than a century ago.

A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long digestion of the human fæces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume (_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.)

Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many an agreeable smell.

Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much.

ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS

Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name

EXTRAIT D'AMBRE.