Part 82

Each of the first four ingredients must be well roasted separately in a dry frying-pan (free from grease), constantly stirring all the time; they must then be pounded and sifted through muslin before being weighed, as the loss is considerable in the husking. The poppy seed must be ground, but does not need sifting. All the powders must then be carefully mixed. The garlic must then be added, picked clean from all skin, and the whole again beaten with a pestle in a mortar till the garlic is thoroughly incorporated with the other ingredients. Bottle and cork tightly. A tablespoonful is enough for a curry.

(_o_) Take 2 large onions, shred them, and put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter; brown them well, cut the meat into squares, put it into the pan, in which the fried onions are, and brown it also. Then add the curry powder, a little salt, a small piece of coconut grated, and a coffeepotful of rich milk or cream. Put the lid on the pan, and let it stew 15-20 minutes, as the meat requires.

(_p_) 2½ large spoonfuls butter, simmer, and add 2 or 3 slices onion to fry; when the onions are nicely browned take them out, and put in a tablespoonful of curry powder, with an onion chopped, and 2 or 3 cloves garlic; fry for about 10 minutes longer, then put in the meat, every now and then throwing in a little cold water to prevent burning. When the meat is tolerably well done add a cupful of water, cold or hot, and simmer gently; when all the water is evaporated and the meat thoroughly cooked, the curry is done. The mixture should be well stirred all the time, or it will stick to the bottom of the pan.

(_q_) Take 2 lb. meat of any sort; pass it through a sausage machine, or mince it. Previous to doing this braise 2 onions in a stewpan with a little butter and 2 tablespoons curry powder or paste. Then add the minced meat and stir the whole together for about 1 hour over the fire. Add a tablespoonful of vinegar and serve. The above quantity is sufficient for 12 persons.

(_r_) Cut 1½ lb. chicken, or any meat or fish, into small pieces, wash them well, and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 tablespoonful curry powder (mixed) over them. Fry sliced onions (number according to taste) in 3 tablespoonfuls fresh butter, put the meat in, and fry for ¼ hour, pouring in at the same time 2 cups boiled gravy. 3 tablespoonfuls coconut milk should be added, or in its stead a lump of fresh butter rolled in flour. Simmer for 10 minutes. Just before serving add a squeeze from a lime. Rice should be served on a separate dish.

(_s_) 2 large tablespoonfuls curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful salt, the same of black pepper. Fry and chop very fine 4 onions, then moisten the curry powder with water, and put it in a stewpan, with all the above ingredients, and ¼ lb. butter. Let it stew for 20 minutes, stirring all the time to prevent burning, then add 1½ lb. cold meat, or fresh meat or any fowl or rabbit, cut into short thick pieces, without fat, add ½ pint milk or good stock to make the curry thick. Boil all up at once, and then let it stew gently for 3-4 hours. When ready add lemon juice or chili vinegar.

(_t_) Make the stewpan very hot, and then put some butter into it; when melted add onions cut into small pieces. When they are browned add your raw meat, also cut small, and simmer for 3 hours. When the meat is well cooked add 1 dessertspoonful curry powder (more if liked very hot) and ½ teaspoonful curry paste, or less, mixed with a little drop of water. Breast of mutton is best, and a little fat is an improvement.

_Custard_ (à la crème).--Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs with powdered sugar, according to taste; stir in ½ pint milk, and 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls orange flower water. Stir in a bain-marie on the fire, and when the sauce thickens it is ready.

_Devil_ (à la diable).--(_a_) Take 2 tablespoonfuls black pepper, and ¼ spoonful cayenne; take some thick slices of meat, beef or mutton, or some legs of chicken or other poultry; cut the meat several ways, but not through, and put the pepper in the interstices; broil on a clear fire. Sauce.--2 tablespoonfuls roast-meat gravy, 2 port wine, ½ lemon juice, ½ respectively anchovy sauce, Harvey sauce, Worcester sauce, and Reading sauce, and a little shred lemon peel and some of the stuffing of duck or goose (if the “devil” is made of either); otherwise have a little chopped onion boiled tender in gravy, and put it into the sauce, which is only to be made hot on the fire.

(_b_) Cut up cold meat or bones, lay them in a shallow dish, and pour over them a mixture made thus: Take 1 teaspoonful powdered mustard, 2 teaspoonfuls each Worcester sauce and mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful chili vinegar, ¼ teaspoonful cayenne, 1 teaspoonful salad oil, 1 of lemon juice, and 1 wineglassful claret. Put the dish into the oven, stir the meat about in it for 10 minutes or a little longer. This is very nice made of cold fowl or kidneys.

(_c_) Fry the meat brown in butter. Have ready a mixture made as follows: some good gravy or stock, a little Worcester and tomato sauce and ketchup; chop very fine some mixed pickles, add them with pepper and salt, and stir well; when you have taken up the meat out of the pan, set the mixture in it to get hot, then pour it over the meat, and serve on a hot-water dish. Cold fish cooked in this way is also very good.

(_d_) The following is a most excellent devil mixture, which may be used for every sort of wet devil; pigs’ feet, chicken legs, fish, and indeed almost anything, is very good when cooked with it: 4 tablespoonfuls cold gravy, 1 of chutney paste, 1 of ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls made mustard, 2 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all the above ingredients as smoothly as possible in a soup plate; put with it the cold meat, or whatever you wish to devil, and stew gently until thoroughly tender.

(_e_) Take 4 tablespoonfuls gravy, 1 of mushroom ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful chutney or chowchow, 2 of made mustard, 1 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all smoothly in a soup plate, put it with the cold fowl or turkey, and stew gently until hot through.

(_f_) Mix in a teacup equal quantities of mustard, ground pepper, and vinegar (a little Watkin’s relish is an improvement when liked); take the bones, slit the meat down to the bone, and fill the slits with this mixture, rub it well in all over the meat, then broil over a clear fire, and send to table at once.

_Dutch Sauce_ (Hollandaise).--(a) Put 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar in a saucepan, and reduce it on the fire to one-third; add ¼ lb. butter and the yolks of 2 eggs. Place the saucepan on a slow fire, stir the contents continuously with a spoon, and as fast as the butter melts add more, until 1 lb. is used. If the sauce becomes too thick at any time during the process, add 1 tablespoonful cold water and continue stirring. Then put in pepper and salt to taste, and take great care not to let the sauce boil. When it is made--that is, when all the butter is used and the sauce is of the proper thickness--put the saucepan containing it into another filled with warm (not boiling) water until the time of serving.

(_b_) Melt 2 oz. butter in a saucepan, mix with it the yolks of 3 eggs, a good spoonful of flour, a little salt and nutmeg, and about 3 tablespoonfuls cold water. Stir this over the fire till on the point of boiling, when the sauce should be a little thick. Draw the saucepan to the side of the stove, and stir in slowly 3 oz. more butter, add the juice of a lemon, and serve hot.

(_c_) ½ lb. butter, 3 yolks eggs, 1 lemon, 10 whole grains black pepper, pinch salt. Break yolks of eggs into a saucepan, add the pepper, crushed but not powdered, the salt, the juice of lemon; whisk it well. In another saucepan melt the butter to cream (taking care not to boil), then with a spoon drop the butter slowly on to the eggs, stirring all the time; beat it well together, strain through a tammy cloth, and place the saucepan in a bain-marie until dinner is served; add a small piece of butter the last moment.

(_d_) The yolks of 2 eggs raw, ½ teacupful cream, piece of butter size of a walnut, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Make the cream, butter, and vinegar hot, and pour gently over the eggs, stirring one way till well mixed.

(_e_) The yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon, ¼ lb. butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, and a little white pepper. Stir this in a clean stewpan over the fire till the butter is melted (it must never boil), then stir in a pint of melted butter, and strain through a silk sieve. When wanted, stir it over the fire till hot.

_Egg Sauce_ (Béarnaise, Mousseuse).--(a) Grate 2 oz. vanilla chocolate and stir into it ½ pint cream, and ½ pint milk with sugar to taste; when it boils add the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs, whisk until it froths well, return it to the stewpan, and stir until it thickens, but do not let it boil. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sifted sugar, stir this to the rest, and serve at once.

(_b_) Flavour 1 pint milk with vanilla or any flavouring preferred, add sugar to taste, let it nearly boil, then stir in off the fire the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs and 2 teaspoonfuls flour; stir until it thickens. Beat up the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sifted sugar; at the moment of serving add the froth to the sauce, and it is ready.

(_c_) Put 3 or 4 shallots and a little garlic, with some allspice, roughly pounded, and a little mace, into a saucepan with a tumblerful of water and half that quantity of tarragon vinegar. Let the whole boil till reduced to one tumblerful; strain this liquor, and let it get cold; strain the yolks of 3 eggs, mix gradually with them the above liquor, salt to taste, and a 2 oz. pat of fresh butter; stir the mixture over a slow fire until it thickens, then add a small quantity of tarragon, finely minced, and serve.

(_d_) Egg Foam Sauce.--Rasp off the yellow rind of ½ lemon, with 1½ oz. loaf sugar. Put this, with 3 eggs and 1 teaspoonful arrowroot, in an enamel stewpan. Stir in ¼ pint water, and a tablespoonful of either brandy, rum, or maraschino. Set it over the fire, and whisk it thoroughly till the froth fills the stewpan. This may be served with either warm or cold dishes.

_Epicurean Sauce._--8 oz. each mushroom ketchup and walnut ketchup, 3 oz. shallots, 2 oz. each port wine and Indian soy, ½ oz. each cloves and white pepper, ¼ oz. cayenne; macerate 14 days in warm place; filter; add white wine vinegar to make 1 pint.

_Fairy Butter._--Take the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs and beat them in a mortar with 2 tablespoonfuls pounded white sugar and 1 teaspoonful orange flower water, or any flavouring that is preferred. When brought to a smooth paste add ¼ lb. fresh butter and mix all well together. Then put it into a very coarse cloth and force it through it (by squeezing and wringing it) on to a dish.

_Fennel Sauce_ (au Fenouil).--Blanch a small quantity of fennel in boiling water and salt for a minute, take it out, dry it on a cloth, and chop it finely; melt 2 oz. butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour to it, mix well, put in pepper and salt to taste, and a little more than a tumbler of hot water; stir on the fire until the sauce thickens and begins to boil. Take the saucepan off the fire, stir into it the yolk of an egg beaten up with the juice of half a lemon, and add plenty of chopped fennel.

_Fine Herbs_ (Provençale).--Put into a saucepan 1 gill salad oil, 1 onion, 1 tomato, 3 or 4 button mushrooms, and a small piece of garlic, all finely chopped. When the whole has been on the fire a few minutes, add 1 tablespoonful flour and stir well; then pour in 1 glass white wine and ½ pint stock, add a bunch of sweet herbs; pepper and salt to taste, 2 cloves, and a bit of nutmeg. Let the sauce boil for ¼ hour, then strain and serve.

_Fish Sauce._--(_a_) 1 pint nasturtium blossoms to be gathered, and put into a jar with 1 qt. good vinegar, 6 shallots, 3 teaspoonfuls salt, 2 of cayenne pepper; let these stand together for 7-9 days, then strain the liquid off, and to every pint of it add 2 oz. soy, and the same of essence of anchovies. Bottle this and cork it well. This sauce is also good with game.

(_b_) 2 oz. butter, 1 large dessertspoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful anchovy essence, 1 of chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful pounded sugar, 1 of Indian soy, 1 gill gravy, 1 wineglass sherry. Proceed thus: Put into a small copper stewpan the butter, let it dissolve and stir into it with a wooden spoon a large dessertspoonful of flour; stir this over the fire till it begins to brown. Now put in the gravy and stir over the fire till it begins to thicken; then add the other ingredients, leaving the sherry till the last; it should be smooth and rather thick. The wine should never boil long, as it loses its flavour.

(_c_) Make ½ pint white sauce, add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, and some pickles chopped up small with a little of the vinegar.

(_d_) The yolks of 2 eggs, ½ teacupful cream, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Mix them together and simmer in a pan, stirring all the time till it thickens. When cold, add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar.

_Forcemeat._--(_a_) Pound to a paste in a mortar slightly rubbed with garlic equal parts veal and fat ham or bacon, then pass them through a wire sieve, and return them to the mortar. Work into the paste thus obtained ¼ its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity of breadcrumbs, soaked in milk or in stock, with the yolks of one or more eggs according to quantity. Add some minced parsley and pepper, salt, spices, and powdered sweet herbs, to taste.

(_b_) Breadcrumbs, hare’s liver scalded and then minced fine, with ½ lb. ham, 1 anchovy, some lemon peel, sweet herbs, well seasoned by salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if the flavour be liked will, when mixed with 1 glass port and 2 eggs, make a good forcemeat for hare. Add a little fresh butter to it if the ham be lean.

(_c_) ½ lb. breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. chopped suet, 1 teaspoonful white pepper, 2 of salt, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, one of sweet marjoram, one egg, and a little milk. Beat all together, and make into small balls.

(_d_) Take 1 part finely shredded suet and 2 of breadcrumbs, season with pepper, salt, powdered spices, sweet herbs, and finely minced parsley; mix all well together, then add as many eggs as will bind the ingredients together into a stiff paste.

_Gascony Butter._--Take equal quantities parsley picked from the stalk and parboiled, anchovies washed, boned, and pounded, and fresh butter. Mix the ingredients well together, and pass them through a hair sieve; shape the butter into egg-shaped balls, ice them, and serve with a piece of toast under each ball.

_Gherkin Sauce_ (aux Cornichons).--Put ½ pint vinegar into a saucepan, with a clove of garlic, 2 shallots finely minced, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, pepper and spices to taste, and, if liked, a little cayenne; let the whole boil for ½ hour, then add ½ pint stock or broth. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, mix a little flour with it, then the above liquor carefully strained. Stir the sauce till it boils, add salt if required, a little minced parsley, and 2 or 3 pickled gherkins finely minced.

_Glaze._--(_a_) Take 4 lb. shin of beef, 4 lb. knuckle of veal, and 1 lb. lean ham, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a stockpot with about 2 qt. cold water--enough to cover the meat--let it come gradually to the boil, skim carefully, occasionally adding a dash of cold water; when clear boil it for 8 hours more, and then strain it through a sieve into a pan. Remove the fat when quite cold. Pour it into a stewpan--be careful not to let the sediment go in--with 1 oz. whole black pepper, ½ oz. of salt, and boil it over a clear fire, leaving the pan uncovered. Skim, and when reduced to 1 qt. strain it through a tammy into another stewpan; then let it simmer till--on taking out some with a spoon and allowing it to cool--it will set into a jelly; great care is required to keep it from burning. It should be kept in earthenware pots, and when required for use melted by putting the pots into saucepans of boiling water. To glaze hams, tongues, &c., wash them over with the melted glaze, using a brush which should be kept for that purpose.

(_b_) Melt 2 oz. butter and 2 oz. lump sugar in saucepan till brown, add 2 spoonfuls jelly made from shank of mutton or gelatine; let all boil up. Put it over the tongue or ham with a feather or brush.

_Governor’s Sauce._--The following is a Canadian recipe: Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes, sprinkle them with a cupful of salt, and let them stand a night; in the morning pour off the liquor, and put them into a saucepan with vinegar enough to cover them. Add 6 green or red chilies, 4 large onions chopped fine, 1 teacupful brown sugar, 1 of scraped horseradish, 1 tablespoonful each cloves and allspice, and 1 teaspoonful each red and white pepper. Let it simmer till soft, put into jars, and keep air-tight. (Bessie Tremaine.)

_Gravy_ (Jus).--(_a_) Cut up an onion, carrot, and turnip, and fry them a nice brown in oil or butter; then dust in a tablespoonful of flour, and brown that also. Add 1 pint boiling water, parsley, herbs, a bay leaf, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar, and let it simmer by the side of the fire for ½ hour or more. Just before serving add a tiny piece of sugar and a little spice, a teaspoonful of anchovy or other sauce, or a little lemon, should it be available. If it is not a good colour, it must be coloured with burnt sugar; but a few onion skins put in at first will probably make it dark enough.

(_b_) To Colour.--Burnt Spanish onions, to be obtained at any Italian warehouse. Put a small piece into a basin, pour some boiling water on it, and mash it with a spoon. Pour into and boil with the gravy.

(_c_) Ditto.--Make an iron spoon very hot, put into it some moist sugar, and drop it into the gravy.

(_d_) Ditto.--A few bakers’ raspings will both thicken and brown gravies.

(_e_) Ditto.--Flour, baked in a tin dish until it is well browned, is a very good colouring to keep ready for use.

(_f_) Ditto.--Put a lump of butter and 1 tablespoonful flour into a stewpan, stir, and let it get well browned; pour to it a little water or meat broth; have ready some shallot, parsley, and onions chopped very fine, throw all in the pan, with pepper and salt, and a few drops of vinegar; put in your meat, but only let it get warmed through.

(_g_) Put 1 slice of ham, 1 lb. gravy beef, 1 lb. veal, 1 onion, 1 clove, some celery, a faggot of herbs, a little lemon peel, 1 liqueur glass sherry, and just enough water to cover them into a stewpan. Cover it close and simmer till nearly dry, but do not let it burn, turn the meat occasionally. Then pour over it 1½ pint boiling water, and boil gently for 2 hours; skim and strain. Mix 1 oz. flour with 1 oz. butter, moisten it with a little of the gravy, then add it gradually to the rest, simmer altogether for ½ hour, remove any scum that may rise, strain again and serve.

_Green Butter._--(_a_) 4 sardines or anchovies, well washed, and pounded in a mortar; 4 oz. parsley free from stalk, and boiled till tender, the water to be well squeezed out, then chopped and rubbed through a sieve with the anchovies, and 2 oz. fresh butter. Make it up into shapes.

(_b_) Pick and boil 2 oz. parsley; wash and bone 2 oz. anchovies, and pound them with the parsley; rub it all through a sieve; mix well with 4 oz. fresh butter; shape it into one large or several small pats, as you please, and serve it with a lump of ice and some hot dry toast.

_Grill Sauce._--(_a_) 1 tablespoonful cream, 1 of vinegar, ketchup, 1 teaspoonful mustard, Harvey or Reading sauce, a little cayenne and salt; warm in a saucepan, and pour over the grill.

(_b_) Take 1 oz. butter, and knead into it 1 teaspoonful mustard flour, ½ saltspoonful cayenne pepper, and the same of white pepper. When mixed put it into a small enamelled saucepan; stir until it is melted, when add to it 1 wineglass port wine, 1 teaspoonful Worcester sauce, the same of Harvey sauce, ½ teaspoonful soy, the same of essence of anchovies, and 1 dessertspoonful mushroom ketchup. Stir it over the fire until at boiling point, and send it to table in a warmed butter boat. This sauce will be found good with any kind of grilled bones.

_Harvey Sauce._--12 oz. quin sauce, 4 oz. soy, ¼ oz. cayenne.

_Horseradish Sauce_ (Raifort).--Grate a quantity of horseradish, boil it in sufficient water to give it the consistency of sauce, add a pinch of salt and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar, then stir in off the fire 1 gill cream beaten up with the yolk of an egg; or, if a cold sauce is desired, make it as follows: Grate a good-sized stick of horseradish very fine, take the yolks of 2 eggs, ½ gill cream, and mix them well together; add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, by degrees to prevent it curdling; pour the mixture over the horseradish, stir all well together, and serve in a small dish. If made in very hot weather, it is better for standing on the ice a little while before serving.

_Jam Sauce_--Mix ½ pot apricot jam with a cupful of water; warm it on the fire, add a wineglassful of sherry, pass through a fine hair sieve.

_Liver Sauce._--Take the livers of any kind of poultry, rabbits, or hares; scald them and mince them finely. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, add a little flour to it and a small quantity of minced shallots. Let the whole fry for a minute or two, then add gravy stock in sufficient quantity to make a sauce, a small pinch of powdered sweet herbs and pepper, spices and salt to taste. Put in the minced livers and a glass of port wine. Let the sauce boil for 20 minutes, and at the time of serving add a small piece of fresh butter and the juice of half a lemon.

_Lobster Sauce_ (Homard).--Take a hen lobster, pick out the meat, and break it into pieces, not too small; pound the shell of the lobster and the spawn with some butter till a smooth paste, pass it through a sieve; make 1 pint melted butter, put the meat from the lobster into it, add a dust of cayenne, and when the sauce boils stir into it the lobster butter that has come through the sieve, and ½ pint cream.

_Maître d’Hôtel Butter._--(_a_) Put 2 oz. fresh butter into a basin, with the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt to taste, and a small quantity of parsley freed from moisture and finely minced. Incorporate the whole well together, and keep it in a cool place till wanted.

(_b_) Melt ¼ lb. butter in a clean saucepan with some very finely minced shallot (or chives) and parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of 1 lemon. Stir it well till done, and pour over, or round, the fish or meat with which it is to be served. This recipe is improved by the addition of a couple of spoonfuls of béchamel, or rich white sauce and the yolk of one egg.

_Marmalade Sauce_ (Orange).--Dilute ½ or ¼ pot marmalade--according to amount of sauce required--with half the quantity of water. Boil it up, strain, and pour over the pudding. White wine may be substituted for the water, or a little brandy may be added to the water.

_Melted Butter_ (au Beurre).--(_a_) Put a piece of butter half the size of an egg into a stewpan; when melted add ½ tablespoonful flour; and stir over the fire a few minutes; add 1 gill hot water, and stir until boiling, then add a good pinch of salt and the yolk of 1 egg previously beaten up with 1 tablespoonful milk, stir it into the butter; strain and serve. (Jane Burtenshaw.)

(_b_) Melt 1 oz. butter, and add to it 1 dessertspoonful flour, salt, and white pepper to taste; stir on the fire for a minute, then put in a little more than a tumblerful of boiling water; keep on stirring for 5 minutes, but do not let the sauce boil.