Part 62

Face, the, 411, 448, 490 Factories: unhealthy, 400; whistles, 434 Fashion: the Handmaid of Ugliness, 328; a disease, 352; mutilates the feet, 352, 360; frustrates advantages of dancing, 365; prescribes absurd hours, 367; its essence vulgar exaggeration, 375; crinoline craze, 375; wasp-waist mania, 379; lacing, 380; Fashion Fetish analysed, 385; and Darwinism, 389; repeats itself, 389; ludicrous features, 390; masculine, 391, 393; disgusting pictures, 393; deforms the breasts, 395; finger-nails, 406; gloves, 407; right-handedness, 408; teeth, 415; powders and paints, 425, 458, 459; ears, 432; noses, 436, 443; _versus_ Taste, 437; forehead, 431, 450, 451; court-plaster, 452; eyebrows, 474; hollow eyes, 483; mutilates eyes, 485; head-dresses, 494; tyranny of ugliness, 496; in France, 509; and bad manners, 510 Fat, cosmetic value of, 120, 132 Feet, the: size, 351; fashionable ugliness, 352; tests of Beauty, 354; not enlarged by _graceful_ walking, 362 Feminine Beauty: in masculine eyes, 177; prematurely lost, 186, 312; rarer than masculine, 313; greater than masculine, 342; bosom, 342, 394, 400, 403; face, 411; nose, 441; forehead, 388, 448, 496; wrinkles, 451; skin, 488; beard, 489, 521 Feminine Inferiority, 260, 262, 274 Feminine Love: less deep than masculine, 120, 273; desire to please, 159; dynamic, not æsthetic, 178, 253, 303; at thirty, 193; expression of, 224; lessens delicacy, 254; Fichte on, 284, 401 Feminine virtues, 98; mediæval culture, 105; cruelty, 150; devotion, 160 Femininity, standard of, 290 Fichte: feminine Love, 284 Fickleness of genius, 210 Figuier, 458, 506, 509, 511, 517 Figure: a good, inspires Love, 154; Oriental, 540; plump, 541 Filial Love, 22 Finger-nails, 406 Fletcher, 167 Flirtation and coquetry, 122; definition of, 123; _versus_ coyness, 123; in France, 273; in Spain, 278; Germany, 285; England, 293; with the eyes, 484, 491 Flower love and beauty, 7-11 Flower, Prof.: walking, 358; toes, 359; nose-rings, 443 Forehead, the, 388, 411; Beauty and brain, 448; fashionable deformity, 450, 496 Fragrance, a tonic, 447 France: the source of vulgar Fashions, 352 Franklin, B.: early marriages, 189; advantages of large families, 189 Freckles, not caused by sunshine, 462, 500, 524 French Beauty: rare as Love-marriages, 272; feet, 362; ugly fashions, 389; brunettes and blondes, 499; general 506; in America, 510; compared with English, 533 French Love: Chivalry, 99; Troubadours, 102; no flirtation, 123, 126; grandchildren sacrificed, 162; lower classes, 176; feminine, at thirty, 193, 196; killed by ridicule, 243, 265-274, 341, 508 French, T. R.: nose-breathing, 445 Freytag, G.: mediæval German marriages, 281 Friendship, 24; among animals, 34; female, in Greece, 81, 180; advantages over conjugal love, 258 Fringe, 388, 495

Gait, graceful, 357, 363; defects in woman’s, 373, 375, 376; in Spain, 518, 520, 533 Gallantry: an overtone of Love, 30; among animals, 39; among savages, 66; birth of, in Rome, 91; crazy mediæval, 100, 157; modern, 157; conjugal, 185; extravagant forms of, 221; feminine, 244; flattery in actions, 245; Italian, 274; Spanish, 278; German, 283; American, 298; true, 388; why on the wane, 495 Galton: on Coyness, 124; callous feelings, 148; morals and large families, 189; heredity of genius, 201; woman’s senses less delicate than man’s, 261; ancestral influences, 306; criminal types, 324; stature and marriage, 521; change in English physiognomy, 530 Gastronomy: cosmetic value of, 446; England, 535; America, 539 Gautier, Th.: woman has no sense of beauty, 124 Genius: emotional, 2, 90, 110; and Health, 179; and marriage, 197; and Love, 201, 217; modern, abundant, 203; in Love, 204; amorous precocity, 204; ardour, 207; _versus_ rank and money, 209; fickleness, 210; multiplicity, 213; and Monopoly, 214; fictitiousness, 215 Georgian women, 60 German Beauty: 144; Bavarian corpulence, 385; Brunettes gaining on Blondes, 499; physiognomy, 514; general, 522-528 German Love: chivalry, 99; Minnesingers, 103; in Folksongs, 105; word for courtship, 118, 126; in novels, 143, 196; gallantry, 240; compared with French, 266, 280-288 Girls: of the Period, 119; plain, chances of getting married, 154; pretty, apt to be spoiled, 155, 200; wrong education, 156, 261; cages _versus_ nets, 185; hints on men, 187; American and English, 188; best education for, 195; easily duped, 224; in France, 267; Germany, 283; know when they are ugly, 307; should skate, 373; how to acquire a fine figure, 385, 404 Gladstone: Greek hair, 496, 498; stature, 520 Godkin, E. L.: true character of milliners, 387 Goethe: _Elective Affinities_, 5; affection for nature, 15; ancient love, 116; first love, 136; intellect and Love, 157; love affairs, 202, 206, 212, 213; unhappy marriages, 258; transitoriness of Love, 287; aversion to noise, 435 Goldsmith: on Love, 116, 165; his first love, 211; English Love, 299 Grace, where found, 308, 343; of gait, 357; acquired by dancing, 364; destroyed by corsets, 382; movements of the head, 401; French, 507; Italian, 514; Spanish, 518, 520 Gradation, 42, 339, 355, 371, 394, 400, 404, 459 Grandchildren: sacrificed to money-marriages, 160, 162, 245, 260 Gratiolet, 479 Greek Beauty, 83; sources of, 313; animals as ideals, 332; no expression, 348, 349; feet, 356; gymnastics, 384; hands, 406; chin, 413; lips, 414; ears, 430, 433; beards, 489; arrangement of hair, 495; colour of hair, 495; stature, 520 Greek Love, 75, 116, 157, 180, 191 Griffin, Sir L.: French women, 506; American women, 536 Grose: noses, 437 Grote, G.: Platonic love, 80; Greek Beauty, 83; Amazons, 191 Gymnastics: among Greeks, 384 Gypsy, Spanish, 516

Haeckel, Prof., 431, 523 Hair: how to wear, 388, 530; on the arm, 403; cause of man’s nudity, 486; how to remove, 491; preserved by Sexual Selection, 492; æsthetic value of, 494; blonde and brunette, 496, 501; red, 503 Hamerton, P. G.: Love and age, 138; feminine sympathy, 156; embers of passion, 264; French Love, 267, 271, 272 Hammond, Dr. W.: Delirium of Persecution, 220; erotomania, 222 Hand, 402, 405, 408 Handel, 199 Harrison, J. P.: length of first and second toes, 359 Hartmann, E. von: pleasure and pain, 168; masculine and feminine Love, 284 Hats, tall, 393; hideous French, 388, 494 Haweis, Mrs.: Fashion _versus_ Beauty, 494; turban, 495; hair-powder, 503 Hawthorne, N.: a love-letter, 250; English Beauty, 531; American physique, 538 Hawthorne, Julian: German Beauty, 526 Haydn, 198, 206 Hazlitt, 258 Head, the deformities of, 328; and hair, 492 Health: correlated with Beauty in flowers, 8, 10; in animals, 46; men and women, 178; source of Love, 303; source of Beauty, 310-317, 331, 534; and delicacy, 344; exercise, 372; lacing, 380; sins against, 419; and colour, 347, 453, 458; and lustre, 469, 477; eyelids, 473; and sunshine, 500; in Italy, 512; England, 534; America, 538. Hebra, Prof.: freckles, 462 Hebrews: Love among ancient, 69; sense of beauty, 72; absence of jealousy, 129; beauty and ugliness of, 320; noses, 438, 440 Hegel: colour of the skin, 453 Heine: flower and butterfly love, 10; the word love, 11; joy and torture, 32; persiflage of coyness, 118, 120; jealousy, 130, 132; on first Love, 137; his marriage, 157; poet for lovers, 170, 202; his first love, 205; his true love, 208; æsthetic love, 211; multiplicity, 213; wedding music, 259; woman’s character, 259; curing Love with Love, 264; French Love, 267; an emotional educator, 286; Italian Beauty, 515 Helmholtz: overtones, 29 Herder: Love, 71; eyes of great men, 482 Heredity: of genius, 201 Hetairai, 79 Higginson, T. W.: sexual likeness, 174; American physique, 541 Hindoo Love maxims, 73 History of Love, 67 Holland, F. W.: morals and large families, 189 Holmes, O. W.: feminine barbarity, 151; refined lips, 419 Homer: Helen’s Beauty, 314 Honeymoon, 164, 188 Horwicz, 16, 21, 240 Hottentots: notions of Beauty, 376 Howells, W. D.: monogamy, 133; feminine self-abnegation, 259; Italian courtship, 275-276; broken engagements, 300; playful flattery, 301 Hueffer, F.: Troubadours, 102 Hume: uncertainty augments passion, 124; mixed emotions, 172 Humphrey, Dr.: walking, 358 Hungarian Beauty, 319 Huxley: female education, 261; ape’s foot, 358 Hygiene, modern: a source of Beauty, 316; of the feet, 362; legs, 373; chest, 397, 398; fatal consequences of neglect, 399; eyes, 485, 527; hair, 493; in England, 534 Hyperbole: emotional, an overtone of Love, 32; in ancient Aryan Love, 74; modern, 162-166; after marriage, 184; pathologic analogies, 219, 221; contact, 225; and genius, 243; in America, 301

Indians, American: wooing, 173; standard of Beauty, 327; muscular power, 371; deformed skulls, 450 Indifference, feigned: value to lovers, 241 Individual Preference: an overtone of Love, 30; among animals, 42; savages, 57, 59; Hebrews, 70, 78; Greeks, 79; Romans, 87; mediæval times, 94, 112; modern, 173-177, 188; in France, 268; Italy, 275; Spain, 278; Germany, 282; England, 288, 535; America, 300; Schopenhauer on, 310 Individualism _versus_ Fashion, 389 Individuality, 174; and nationality, 300, 350, 482, 508 Individuals: sacrificed to species, 302, 308 Insanity and Love: analogies, 218; erotomania, 222 Intellect and Beauty, 61, 155, 217, 324, 326, 534 Intellect and Love, 61, 74, 79, 83, 90, 122, 154, 157, 193, 203, 209, 216, 285, 299, 304 Intoxication, amorous, 163, 197 Iris, 466, 479 Irving, Washington: transient Love, 211; intellect and Beauty, 324; Spanish Beauty, 519 Italian Beauty: 274, 276; feet, 359, 361; nose, 437; hair, 497, 502; complexion, 501; general, 511-515 Italian Love: chivalry, 101; no word for courtship, 118, 196, 274-277, 512

Jaeger, G.: personal perfumery, 446 James, Henry: American women, 158; Daisy Miller, 295 Japan: jealousy, 129, 133 Jaws, the, 408 Jealousy: an overtone of Love, 30; among animals, 39; moral mission of, 62; occasional absence among savages, 62; Greek, 77; mediæval, 103; modern, 127-133; retrospective and prospective, 131; aroused by Beauty, 133, 172; conjugal, 184; Oriental, 185; morbid, 221 Jeffrey: on Taste, 328; theory of Beauty, 335 Jews. _See_ Hebrews Johnson, Dr.: second Love, 135; marriage and Love, 258 Jowett, Prof.: Sokrates, love and friendship, 258

Kant: women ensnared by counterfeit lovers, 243; value of smiles, 421 Karr, A.: Woman’s Love, 259 Keats: amorous hyperbole, 163; paradox, 168; Beauty and Love, 177; love-letters, 246-248 Kissing, 142, 227; among animals, 227; savages, 228; origin of, 229; ancient, 232; mediæval, 233; modern, 234; love-kisses, 235; art of, 237; varieties of, 414; on the ears, 432; cheeks, 425 Knight: Beauty and utility, 336, 340 Knille: Italian Beauty, 514 Kollmann, Prof.: feminine Beauty, 342; walking, 371; muscular development, 373; gait, 374; breasts, 395; face, 411; nose, 436; hair, 502; results of crossing, 320 Koran, the: on woman’s soul, 94 Krafft-Ebing: Insanity and Love, 173, 222

La Bruyère: how to win love, 244; on use of paint, 459 Lacing: fatal to Beauty, 379 Lamartine: genius and Love, 210; love-affairs, 252 Lamb, Chas.: amorous paradoxes, 166; love-affairs, 212 Language of Love: words, 223; facial expression, 224; caresses, 225; kissing, 227 La Rochefoucauld: Love and friendship, 26; and absence, 256 Lathrop, G. P.: Love-making in Spain, 278; Spanish Beauty, 518 Laughter, 421 Lavater: chin, 412; ocular lustre, 470 Lawson, F. P.: effect of education on Beauty, 324 Leanness, 304, 382; how to cure, 384 Lecky: on kindness to animals, 18; family affections among Greeks, 75; asceticism and chastity, 93; feminine devotion, 160; southern type of Beauty, 501 Lenau: love-letters, 248; music and Love, 257 Leo, Judah: on Love, 4 Lessing: every woman a shrew, 259 Life: prolonged through hygienic care, 316 Lips, 227, 231; expression of scorn, 410; refined, 413; lip language, 414; effect on, of æsthetic culture, 419 Liszt, 199 London, 435 Longfellow, 264 Love-charms (and calls): among animals, 50; for women, 250, 426 Love-dramas, among flowers, 9 Love-maxims: Hindoo, 11 Love, Romantic: a modern sentiment, 1, 180; superior to friendship, 26; to maternal love, 27; secures to man the benefits of cross-fertilisation, 28; overtones of, 29; a great moral, æsthetic and hygienic force, 28, 97; among animals, 33; savages, 54; Egyptians, 67; Hebrews, 69; ancient Aryans, 72; more traces of modern in Indian poetry than in Greek and Roman, 73; among Greeks, 75; origin of, 85; among Romans, 86; Mediæval, 92; wooing and waiting, 101; dependent on refinement, 101; maid _versus_ married woman, 105; birth of modern, 109; order of development proved, 111; at the altar, 113; in novels, 113; pleasure of pursuit, 115; value of procrastination, 116, 118; coyness lessens woman’s, 119; masculine deeper than feminine, 120, 259, 272; modern jealousy, 127; passion or admiration, 130; is transient, 135, 180; is first best? 136; Heine on first, 137; first is not best, 137; individual _versus_ the species, 139; coquetry, 142; opposed by rank, 143; intensifies emotions, 147; stimulates social sympathy, 149; selfish aspect of, 151; at first sight, 38, 152; inspired by a fine figure, 154; by sympathy, 156; responsible for general growth of Gallantry, 158; refines men, 159; impels toward self-sacrifice, 159, 161; in France, 162; emotional hyperbole, 162, 175; intoxication of, 163; honeymoon, 164; mixed moods and paradoxes, 166; course of true, 170; lunatic, lover, and poet, 172; and conjugal, 173; individual choice, 174; and culture, 176; idealised by Beauty, 177-180; responsible for Beauty, 177; differs from conjugal, 180; elements of, in conjugal affection, 184; makes men embarrassed, 187; free choice does not always imply Love, 188; eliminates ugly and masculine women, 190; inspired by Beauty, 194; a duty, 196; must be mutual, 196; genius is amorous, 201; _a creative impulse_, 202; imagined is real, 203; arouses genius, 204; precocious, 204; most intense in men of genius, 208; fickle, 210, 216; loving two at once, 213; “sublimed” by Beauty, 218; pathologic analogies, 218; erotomania, 222; language of, 223; facial expression of, 224; caresses, 225; kissing, 227; how to win, 237-255; feminine, and genius, 242; effects of, 242; compliments, 244; love-letters not necessarily slovenly, 247; extracts from, 247-250; charms for women, 251; masculine, and vanity, 252; opposed to viragoes, 252; proposing, 253; signs and tests of, 254; how to cure, 255; effect of absence on, 256; effects of marriage on, 257; poisoned by humiliation, 263; _versus_ Love, 264; chances of recovery, 265; national peculiarities, 265; massacred in France, 266; Italian, 274, 276; Spanish, 277; German, 280; English, 288, 299; American, 294; a cause of Beauty, 280, 301, 309; points out woman’s sphere, 292; obedience to, a moral duty, 286; Schopenhauer’s theory of, 301-310; sources of, 303; complementary, explanation of, 307; leads to happy marriages, 309; a source of Beauty, 322; displaces cruel Natural Selection, 323, 424; is inspired by grace, 344, 357, 362; more concerned with form than with colour, 347; guided by subtle signs, 349; individualisation and “beauty-spots,” 350; neglects no detail of Beauty, 351; the object of dancing, 365; killed by fashionable deformity, 380; feminine and masculine, 401; maintains æsthetic proportion, 412; related to Health and Beauty, 415; beautifies the face, 324, 418; special expression of, 418; beautifies the lips, 420; the cheeks, 424; and fresh air, 426; and blushes, 429; inspired by a musical voice, 435; beautifies the nose, 440; eliminates high feminine foreheads, 448, 450; method of amorous selection, 458; awakens the sense of beauty, 458; banishes rouge, 459; inspired by eyes, 464, 482; beautifies the eyes, 469; eyebrows, 474, 485; large pupils, 479; _musculus amatorius_, 482; killed by sunken eyes, 483; preserves the hair, 492; favours brunettes, 305, 497, 529; eye-lashes, 503; and Beauty, 508; favours small women, 520; _versus_ reason, 522; and Beauty in England, 534; sexual differentiation, 541; in America, 541; age of, 542 Lovers: selfish bores, 135, 147; quarrels, 170; musician and poet for, 169; falsetto, 224, 436 Love-sickness: real, 222 Love-stories; none in Greek literature, 76 Lubbock, Sir J.: on flowers and insects, 8; absence of certain emotions in savages, 55; kissing, 228 Lungs: hygiene of, 398 Lustre, 345; in eyes, 469, 476 Luther: and marriage, 97 Lynn-Linton, Mrs.: Girl of the Period, 187

Macaulay: Petrarch’s love, 216 Madonna, Sistine, 481; blond, 497 Magnus, Dr. Hugo: colour of the eye, 469; lustre, 470; expression, 475; portraits, 481; individuality, 481 Manicure secrets, 407 Manners: essence of good, 495; Spanish, 530 Mantegazza: on courtship, 118; caresses, 226; Esquimaux nose, 437; Italian noses, 437, 444; wrinkles, 452; Italian Beauty, 512 Manu, laws of: on woman, 72 Mariolatry: influence on woman’s position, 97 Marlowe: amorous hyperbole, 165; half-kisses, 238 Marriage: among animals, 36, 37; Egyptian trial, 68; modern ideal of, 68; in Greece, 78; in Rome, 93; and chivalry, 99, 103; Love _versus_ expediency, 112; maiden _versus_ wife, 115; through accident, 139; men becoming cautious, 156; Love not a motive in France, 162; of men of genius, 164, 197, 199; money _versus_ Beauty, 177; “the sunset of Love,” 181; conditions of happy, 182; nets and cages, 185; of love, _versus_ “reason,” 186, 522; hints, 188; chances for ugly women, 191; age for, advancing, 192; misery of, 257-260; in France, 268; Germany, 281; America, 301; based on Love, 302; and dancing, 367; and noses, 436; and complexion, 459; Albinos, 501; and stature, 521 Masculine Beauty: in feminine eyes, 177; more common than feminine, 312, 348, 397, 400, 403; face, 411; nose, 441; forehead, 448; wrinkles, 451; beard, 489, 490, 521; in Germany, 524 Masculine Love; deeper than feminine, 120, 259, 273; coquetry, 142; Gallantry, 158; beautifying impulse, 179; insincerity, 187; comic expression of, 224; won _vid_ Vanity, 252; increases delicacy, 254; _versus_ feminine, 284 Masculine vanity, 252 Masculine women: eliminated as old maids, 190, 253 Massage, 403 Maternal Love, 19; among animals, 34, 183 Mediæval Love, 92; celibacy, _versus_ marriage, 92; woman’s lowest degradation, 93; negation of feminine choice, 95; Christianity and love, 97; chivalry, militant and comic, 99; poetic, 101; female culture, 105; Personal Beauty, 107; Spenser on Love, 108; Dante and Shakspere, 109 Mediæval Ugliness: causes of, 315 Meditation beautifies the face, 480 Mental culture: a source of Beauty, 324; France, 509; Italy, 513; Spain, 519, 520; Germany, 522; England, 534; America, 541 Middleton, 167 Mill, J. S.: female self-denial, 161; companionship in marriage, 184; woman’s sphere, 194 Milliners’ cunning, 387 Milton, 107, 198 Minnesingers, 103 Mitchell, Dr. W.: American physique, 538 Mitchell, P. C.: monkeys’ kisses, 228 Mixed Moods and Paradoxes of Love, 32, 166, 185 Mixture of races (_see_ also Crossing): and Love, 508; in France, 508; Italy, 511; Spain, 515; Germany, 522; England, 516, 528, 538 Modesty: a source of Coyness, 115; and blushes, 164 Monogamy: favours the development of Love, 64; in Egypt, 68 Monopoly: an overtone of Love, 30; among savages, 63; in ancient Aryan Love, 74; modern, 133-141; and genius, 213; three are a crowd, 221; in Lenau’s love-letters, 249; masculine and feminine Love, 284, 504 Montagu, Lady: on woman, 259 Montaigne: on marriage, 259; Italian Beauty, 274 Moore, T.: genius and marriage, 197, 200; first love, 204 Moral impressions: confounded with æsthetic, 479 Mormons, 63 Mountains: feelings inspired by, 12 Mouth: muscles of, 413; self-made, 420 Muscles: development of, 303; use and disuse, 327; the plastic material of Beauty, 384; of an athlete, 403; facial, 417; mouth, 418 Music: of male birds, does it charm the females? 50; dance-music, 103; Chopin’s funeral march, 170; fans love, 257, 330, 339, 408, 419, 480

Nationality: and Beauty, 505; and Love, 266 Natural Selection: a cause of Beauty, 42 _seq._; replaced by Love, 323, 424; blushes, 426; complexion, 455; eyebrows, 475; loss of hair, 486, 492 Neck, 400 Negroes: African, strangers to Love, 55; American, can they love? 66; ugliness of, 319; standard of Beauty, 328, 331; feet, 355; legs, 371, 405; teeth, 415; lips, 416; cause of blackness, 456; complexion, inferiority of, 458; eyes, 464, 467, 468, 483; hair, 492 New York: a silly fashion in, 390; noise in, 435, 447; effeminate men, 541 Nordau, Max: love in Germany, 176 Norton, C. E.: on Dante, 109 Nose, the: shape and size, 436; evolution of, 437; Greek and Hebrew, 440; fashion and cosmetic surgery, 442; important functions of, 445 Nose-breathing: importance of, 398, 445 Novels: Love in, 11 Novelty: and first Love, 140 Nudity: cause of man’s, 486

Odours: cosmetic value of, 446 Old Maids, 190 O’Rell, Max: French chaperonage, 269; English degraded women, 531 Origin of Love, 85 Ornamentation: non-æsthetic, 328 Ovid: on tricks of Gallantry, 1; rarity of Beauty in Rome, 88; art of making love, 90; Gallantry, 92; conception of Love, 118; enduring a rival, 129; estimate of, 201; loving two at once, 213; how to cure love, 255, 257, 262