Part 61

It must be admitted, however, that a vast improvement has been effected within the last two generations. Beyond all doubt the young girls of fifteen are to-day healthier and better-looking than were their mothers at the same age. It is no longer fashionable to be pale and frail. Anglomania has done some good in introducing a love of walking, tennis, etc., as well as the habit of spending a large part of the year in the country.

Mr. Higginson, Mr. R. G. White, and many others, have insisted on this gradual improvement in the health and physique of Americans; and Dr. Beard remarks in his work on _American Nervousness_: “During the last two decades the well-to-do classes of America have been visibly growing stronger, fuller, healthier. We weigh more than our fathers; the women in all our great centres of population are yearly becoming more plump and more beautiful.... On all sides there is a visible reversion to the better physical appearance of our English and German ancestors.... The one need for the perfection of the beauty of the American women—increase of fat—is now supplied.” Yet the one cosmetic which 20 per cent of American women still need above all others is the ability to eat food which they scorn as “greasy,” but which is only greasy when badly prepared. It is to such food that Italian and Spanish women owe their luscious fulness of figure.

Dr. Clarke’s work on _Sex and Education_ made a great sensation because he pointed out that the ill-health of American women is largely due to the brain-work imposed on them at school. Now the superior beauty of American women is admittedly largely due to the intelligent animation of their features, to the early training of their mental faculties. Is this advantage to be sacrificed? Dr. Clarke’s argument does not point to any such conclusion. He simply contended that the methods of female education were injurious. “The law has, or had, a maxim that a man and his wife are one, and that the one is the man. Modern American education has a maxim, that boys’ schools and girls’ schools are one, and that the one is the boys’ school.” Girls need different studies from boys to fit them for _their_ sphere in life; and above all they need careful hygienic supervision and periods of rest.—Dr. Clarke’s book affords many irrefutable arguments in favour of one of the main theses of the present treatise: that the tendency of civilisation is to differentiate the sexes, mentally and physically. It is on this differentiation that the ardour and the cosmetic power of Romantic Love depend. Hence the hopelessness of the Virago Woman’s Rights Cause, especially in America, where the women are more thoroughly feminine than elsewhere. It is said that when the first female presidential candidate announced a lecture in a western town, _not a single auditor_ appeared on the scene. American women, evidently, are in no immediate danger of becoming masculine and ceasing to inspire Love.

Women, however, must be educated and thoroughly, for it has been abundantly shown in the preceding pages that only an educated mind can feel true Romantic Love. But their education should be feminine. They need no algebra, Greek, and chemistry. What they need is first of all a thorough knowledge of Physiology and Hygiene, so that they may be able to take care of the Health and Beauty of their children. Then they should be well versed in literature, so as to be able to shine in conversation. Their artistic eye should be trained, to enable them to teach their children to go through the world with their eyes open. Most of us are half blind; we cannot describe accurately a single person or thing we see. Music should be taught to all women, as an aid in making home pleasant and refined, and as an antidote to care. Natural history is another useful feminine study which enlarges the sympathies by showing, for example, that birds love and marry almost as we do, wherefore it is barbarous to wear their stuffed bodies on one’s hat.

Education, Intermarriage, Hygiene, and Romantic Love will ultimately remove the last traces of the ape and the savage from the human countenance and figure. Climate will perhaps always continue to modify different races sufficiently to afford the advantages of cross-fertilisation or intermarriage. The remarkable fineness of the American complexion, for instance, has been ascribed to climatic influences, and with justice it seems, for, according to Schoolcraft, the skin of the native Indians is not only smoother, but more delicate and regularly furrowed than that of Europeans. The notion, however, that the climate is tending to make the American like the Indian in feature and form is nonsensical. The typical “Yankee” owes his high cheek-bones and lankness to his indigestible food; his thin colourless lips to his Puritan ancestry and lack of æsthetic culture.

Even if climate did possess the power to modify the forms of our features, it would not be allowed to have its own way where these modifications conflicted with the laws of Beauty. Science is daily making us more and more independent of crude and cruel Natural Selection, and of the advantages of physical conformity to our surroundings. Hence Sexual Selection has freer scope to modify the human race into harmony with æsthetic demands. Perhaps the time will come when the average man will have as refined a taste and as deep feelings as a few favoured individuals have at present; that epoch will be known as the age of Romantic Love and Personal Beauty.

INDEX

About, E.: fashionable disease, 510 Absence: effect on Love, 256 Addison: familiarity, 184, 258 Æsthetic sense: developed from utilitarian associations, 336; training the, 340; highest product of civilisation, 409, 479 Æsthetic suicide, 388, 390 Affection, impersonal, 11-16; for dismal scenery, 13 Affections, Personal: love for animals, 16-19; maternal love, 19; paternal, 20; filial, 22; brotherly and sisterly, 23; friendship, 24; romantic love, 26; differentiation of, 180 Age: which preferred by Cupid, 303; beauty of old, 334; and decrepitude, 334; ears in old, 430; eyebrows, 474; hair, 489, 493 Air: fresh, 317; necessary to Beauty, 186, 319, 397, 426, 446, 447, 492, 515 Albinos, 468, 501 Alcock, Dr.: colour of tropical man, 456 Alfieri: first love, 204, 214 Alison: on taste, 451 Allen, Grant: origin of æsthetic sense, 336 Amazons, 191 Ambidexterity, 408, 444 American beauty, 177, 300; South American, 319; quadroons, 321; rapid development of, 326; feet, 362; frank gaze, 481, 531, 535-543; complexion, 542 American Love: courtship, 118; flirtation, 122, 126; Gallantry, 158; and Beauty, 177; at eighteen, 193; replaces German and French courtship, 288, 294-301 Amicis, E. de: Spanish beauty, 517 Amiel, H. F.: on Germans, 523 Animals: love for, 16; ignored in Christian ethics, 18; love among, 33; jealousy, 39, 128; kissing, 227, 229; as tests of Beauty, 331; arctic, why white, 456 Apes, caressing, 225; kissing, 225, 228; ugliness of, 333; feet, 355, 359; gait, 357; legs, 371; abdomen, 385; arms, 402; hands, 405; jaws, 409; nude patches, 487; hair, 492 Apollo, 490 Arabian beauty, 516 Aryan Love, ancient, 72 Asceticism and ugliness, 314 Augustine, St.: love and jealousy, 128 Austrian beauty, 319, 516

Bach, A. B.: chest-exercise, 399 Bachelors, 194 Bacon: friendship, 25; amorous hyperbole, 162; celibacy and genius, 197; love and genius, 207; employment _versus_ love, 257 Bain, Prof., 225, 341, 346. Baldness, 492 Ballet-dancing, 370 Ballrooms: unhealthy, 364, 402; for birds, 365 Balzac: prolonging Love, 218; how his love was won, 252; hand of great men, 405 “Bangs,” 388, 495 Banting, 384 Bathing, 461, 518, 524, 534 Beard, G. M.: diet, 384; eyeball, 476; American beauty, 536, 541 Beard, the, 489 Beauty, in flowers, origin of, 8; dependent on Health and Cross-fertilisation, 10 Beauty, Personal: the æsthetic overtone of Love, 32; admiration of, by animals, 43; by savages, 59; among Hebrews, 72; Hindoos, 74; Greeks, 83; Romans, 88; mediæval, 108; feminine _versus_ masculine strength, 115; arouses jealousy, 133; when only skin-deep, 155; and intellect, 155; refines Love, 177-180; feminine, in masculine eyes, 177; masculine, in feminine eyes, 178; neglected after marriage, 185; lost prematurely, 186; “skin-deep,” 190; elimination of ugly and masculine women, 190; fatal to bachelors, 194; physical, a source of Love, 303; facial, 304; dependent on Health, 310; independent of utility, 311; Greek, 313; increased through Hygiene, 316, 335; effect of crossing on, 318; Jews, 320; quadroons, 321; increased through Love, 322, 323; as a fine art, 329, 417; tests of, negative, 331; positive, 338; human less frequent than animal, 391; lost in degradation, 333; and age, 334; expression _versus_ form, 349; proportion, 354; feet, 355, 361; value of exercise, 362, 403; lower limbs, 371; Hygiene and civilisation, 372, 394; lacing fatal to, 381, 382; corpulence, 383; rare, 387; chest, 394, 396; increased by deep-breathing, 399; neglect of, a sin, 400; neck and shoulder, 400; finger-nails, 406; jaw, 408; characteristic, 411; dimples, 412; lips, 413; cheeks, 423; colour and blushes, 425; ears, 429; noses, 440; Greek, 440; arm and hand, 405, 408; cosmetic value of gastronomy, 446; of fragrant air, 447; of sunlight, 460, 462; skin, 453, 458, 488; eyes, 464 _et seq._, 516; beards and moustaches, 489; sexual selection preserves hair, 492; sensuous, of eyes, 480; of hair, 492, 493; _versus_ Fashion, 387, 496; Brunette _versus_ Blonde, 496; national traits, 505; race-mixture and Love, 508; and mental culture, 324, 520; stature, 520; beautiful and pretty, 521 Beauty-sleep, 317 Beauty-spots, 452 Beddoe, Dr.: brunettes and blondes, 499; races of Britain, 529 Beer, 525, 526 Beethoven: Love-affairs, 210, 212, 217 Bell, Sir Charles: the lips, 227; Greek beauty, 349; woman’s gait, 373; facial expression, 414; beards, 490 Bella donna, 504 Berlioz: love-affairs, 199, 206 Birds: affections of, 35; intermarriages, nuptial mass meetings, 37; courtship, 38; love-dances, 39, 52; jealousy, 39; coyness, 40; choice of a mate, 42; source of colours, 44; love-calls, 51; female seeks male, 51; display of ornaments, motives of, 52; æsthetic taste of, 53; murdered for vulgar women, 150; billing, 230 Blackie, Prof.: Goethe’s love-affairs, 212 Blaikie, W.: American physique, 540 Blind, why love is, 164, 202 Blonde _versus_ Brunette, 496, 529 Blushes, 425; eyes of Albinos, 468 Bodenstedt: Oriental women, 185; Georgian women, 325 Bones, 410 Bothmer, Countess von: French Love, 269, 270; German women, 283; English flirtation, 293 Brain, the, 449, 522 Brandes, Georg: feminine Love at thirty, 193, 197 Breath, offensive, 423 Breathing, healthy, 380; deep, magic effects of, 397, 447 Brinton and Napheys, 379, 421, 432, 444, 484 Brotherly and sisterly love, 23 Browne, Lennox: corset ruins grace, 382; consumption, 399 Brunette _versus_ Blonde, 305, 496, 513, 520, 526, 529 Bryant, 254 Büchner, L., 534 Bulkley, Dr.: care of skin, 460; removing hairs, 493 Bunyan: kissing, 284 Burke: delicacy, 343; smoothness, 344; neck and breasts, 394; love and stature, 521 Burns: Love and cosmic attraction, 6; amorous hyperbole, 162; first love, 205; ardour of his love, 208; fickleness, 211; undercurrents, 213; a lover’s dream, 220; kissing, 231 Burton, 4, 259 Bustle, the, 375, 494 Buxton, 259 Byron, Lord: affection for mountains, 13; epitaph on dog, 17; woman’s Love, 121; waltzing, 129; the coquette, 142; Romantic Love, 163; love-affairs, 202; first love, 204; a poet’s love, 210; Swift, 210; kissing, 236; refusals, 241; how to win love, 243, 252; sarcasm on marriage, 259; money and “love,” 263; Italian Love, 274; Love inspired by inferior beauty, 305; black eyes, 498; Italian beauty, 512

Calderwood: on affection, 11 Calisthenics, 397 Campbell, Sir G.: Aryan cheekbones, 424 Camper’s angle, 449 Canada: Love-matches and Beauty, 178, 373, 510 Capture of women, 56 Caresses, 225 Carew, 256 Celibacy: mediæval notions of, 92; bachelors, 195; and genius, 197 Cervantes, 202, 280 Chamfort, 224 Chaperonage: in Greece, 77; Rome, 87; mediæval, 103; modern, 119, 126, 174, 181, 186, 192; in France, 193, 266 _et seq._; England, 268, 293; Italy, 274; Spain, 277; Germany, 285; America, 294, 296 Characteristic, the, 410 Cheeks, 423; colour and blushes, 425 Chemical affinities, 3-6 Chest, the, 304, 394, 397 Chesterfield: birth of “flirtation,” 124; flattery, 245 Children: head, 449; eyes, 480 Childs, Mrs,: Love and marriage, 122 Chin, 412 China: Love in, 118; jealousy, 129, 133; aristocracy of intellect, 210; standard of Beauty, 328; mutilation of the feet, 352; dancing, 366; cheeks, 423; eyes, 473, 483, 485 Chiromancy, 406 Chivalry: militant and comic, 98; poetic, 101 Choice, sexual. _See_ Individual Preference Chopin: musician for lovers, 170 Christianity and Love, 97; sympathy, 149; and Beauty, 323 Circassian women, 320, 427 City air, 447; city life, injurious to health, 372 Civilisation: and Beauty, 424; and noise, 434 Clarke, E. H.: American Health and Beauty, 539; sex and education, 541 Clavel, Dr.: English Beauty, 532 Cleanliness, 96, 364, 533 Climate, 542 Clough, 227 “Colds,” 540 Coleridge: fruitless Love, 121; best marriages, 190; virtue and passion, 218; compliments, 245; love and absence, 256 Collier, Miss M.; Italian Love and Hygiene, 512 Collier, R. L.: English and American courtship, 292 Colour: a normal product, proportionate to vitality, 44; Typical and Sexual, 44; Protective and Warning, 48; means of recognition of species, 49; complementary, 172, 345; in cheeks, 425; ears, 432; skin, 453, 488; of man’s skin, original, 456; eyes, 465, 478 Complementary qualities: colours, 172; guide Love, 272, 305 Complexion: white _versus_ black, 453; Scandinavian and Spanish, 459; cosmetic hints, 460; freckles, 462; brunette _versus_ blonde, 500, 526; English, 533, 534; injured by hot air, 540 Compliments, 244 Confidence, value of, to lovers, 239, 242 Conjugal love: among animals, 34; savages, 182; Hebrews, 69; Greeks, 75; Romans, 86; troubadours, 102; self-sacrifice, 160; in France, 162; differs from Romantic, 180 _et seq._; modern, 182; essence of, 183; feminine deeper than masculine, 186; and friendship, 258 Constable, 167 Consumption, nurseries of, 399 Coquetry: in birds, 40; and flirtation, 122; historic excuse for, 124; essence of, 142; masculine, 142; and high collars, 242 Corpulence, 304, 382; how to reduce, 384; in old England, 530 Corset: fatal to Beauty, 379 _et seq._; causes corpulence, 382, 385; ruins chest, 400 Cosmetic hints (_see_ also Hygiene and Exercise): how to refine the lips, 421; ears, 431; odours, 445; complexion, 460, 464; electricity, 464; eyelashes, 484; eyes, 485; hair, 491; scalp, 493; colour of eyes, 504; fresh air, 513 Cosmic attraction, 3-6 Costume, study of, 495 Court-plaster, 452 Courts of Love, 103 Courtship: among animals, 37; facilitated by love-calls, 50; display of ornaments, 53; among savages, 56; Hebrews, 70; Greeks, 77; Plato on, 78; advice to mediæval girls, 106; definition and value of, 118; playing at, 122; modern, 125, 126, 173; mediæval, 239; French, 268; Italian, 275; Spanish, 278; German, 282; American and English, 288, 292, 294, 299; the object of dancing, 364; needed in France, 509; Germany, 527 Cousins: Love and kissing, 235; as chaperons, 297 Coyness: an overtone of Love, 30; among animals, 40; among primitive maidens, 64; Hindoos, 74; Greeks, 77; mediæval, 100; modern, 114; _et seq._; a feminine weapon, 115; disadvantages of, 118; lessens woman’s Love, 119; displaced by flirtation, 122; of fate, 170; after marriage, 185; varies, 253; how to overcome, 254; needed in Germany, 285 Crimes, against Health and Beauty, 400, 419 Criminal types, 324 Crinoline craze, the, 376 Cross-fertilisation: advantages to Health and Beauty, 8, 318 Crossing, 306; a source of Beauty, 318 Crowe and Cavalcaselle, 274 “Cunning to be strange,” 115 Cupid’s arrows, 84 Curing Love, art of: 154, 196, 255; absence, 256; travel, 257; employment, 257; contemplation of married misery, 257; of feminine inferiority, 260; focussing her faults, 262; reason _versus_ passion, 263; Love _versus_ Love, 264 Curvature, 341, 355, 371, 379, 381, 393, 396, 400, 413, 473, 474

Dancing: love-dances of birds, 39, 52; and grace, 364; and courtship, 365; birds, 365; Greeks and Romans, 366; why men no longer care for, 367; evolution of dance-music, 367; dance of Love, 369; ballet, 370 Dante, 2, 109, 168, 198, 201, 215, 420 Darwin: on flowers and insects, 7; benefactor of animals, 18; birds, 35; animal jealousy, 39; coyness, 40; sexual selection, 43; love charms and calls, 50; birds displaying their ornaments, 53; English Beauty, 145; female tenderness, 150; masculine females, 190; expression of Love, 224; amorous desire for contact, 225; origin of kissing, 229; feminine inferiority, 260; taste, 326; symmetry in nature, 338; bird dances and courtship, 365; Hottentot bustle, or steatopyg, 375; jaws and hands, 409; lip mutilations, 416; expression of emotions, 418; Siamese notions of Beauty, 423; blushing, 427; Albinos, 501; movements of ears, 430, 433; point of, 431; mutilations, 432; the nose, 436; sense of smell, 446; Indian heads, 450; movements of the scalp, 452; complexion, 455; eyebrows, 474; loss of man’s hair, 486 Darwinism, new proof for, 389 Decrepitude, 334 Deformity: fatal to Love, 304; elimination of, 323 Degradation: a cause of ugliness, 333 Delicacy, 343, 410, 413 Depilatories, 492 De Quincy: inferiority of feminine imagination, 261 Diagnosis of Love, 254 Diderot: effects of Love, 242 Dimples, 405, 412 Disease: kills Love, 304; a cause of ugliness, 334, 341; resulting from tight shoes, 354; from lacing, 380, 381; hollow eyes, 473; and Fashion, 510, 541 Display of ornaments, by animals, 52 Don Juans, among birds, 36 Draughts, stupid fear of, 317 Drayton, 167 Dress, improprieties of, 380; woman’s for woman, 388; in France, 510 Dryden: on Love, 89, 166; Love _versus_ Love, 264 Dühring, Dr.: German money-marriages, 282 Dürer, 481

Ears: a useless ornament, 429; physiognomic theories, 432 Eckstein: antiquity of Love, 1 Education of Girls, 156; the right kind, 195, 261; effect of on Beauty, 324, 541, 542 Egypt: Love in, 67 Electricity, as a cosmetic, 464, 493, 505 Eliot, George: on first Love, 138 Elopements, 61, 188 Elson, L. C.: Troubadours and Minnesingers, 104 Emerson: poetry and science, 9; lovers’ sympathy, 31; on lovers, 134; amorous hyperbole, 163, 165, 241; balm for rejected lovers, 255; ocular expression, 475; Health and Beauty, 533 Emotional differentiation, 180 Empedokles, 3, 180 Engagements, 293; broken, 300 English Beauty, 145; feet, 359, 362; open-air games, 373; mouths and chins, 419; nose, 442; beards, 489; Brunettes gaining on Blondes, 499; physique, 507, 509, 528 _seq._ English Love: courtship, 118; flirtation, 122, 126, 193, 196; kissing, 233, 237, 288-294; Goldsmith on, 299 Epicures: why handsome, 446 Erasmus: kissing in England, 233 Erotomania, 222 Evolution of Love, 111, 173, 180, 181; of Beauty, 327; of taste, 327; great toe, 359 Exaggeration: characteristic of bad taste, 61 Exclusiveness: amorous. _See_ Monopoly Exercise: effects on Beauty, 186, 313, 372; reduces fatness but increases muscle, 384, 403; in France, 509, 520, 525 Exogamy, 56 Expression: improves form of features, 155; facial, of Love, 224; of lips, 227; of Beauty, 327, 347-352; mouth, 409; facial, 414, 458; of vice, 418; of lust, 418; ears, 433; eyes, 470, 475; dog’s tail, 491; Italian, 513 Eyes, 164, 262; smiling, 415; the most beautiful feature, 464; colour of, 465; lustre, 469; form, 472; lashes and brows, 474, 503, 483; expression of, 479; movements of iris, 475; of eyeball, 480; of lids, 482; of brows, 484; “making eyes,” 491; dark _versus_ light, 503; Spanish, 516, 517