Part 3
Mr. Josiah Wilson, J.P., lived next; it was also a large detached house, which lay back a long distance from the High-road, with large grounds attached. This was, I think, the first house taken down on Stamford Hill, and from that time dates the immense change that has taken place all over Tottenham. Then there were a good many other large residences, among which was the “Clock House,” occupied by Miss Deborah Dermer, and two pretty semi-detached houses at the corner of the lane, then called Hanger-lane, now
ST. ANN’S ROAD.
This was a very quiet road, with only a few cottages and one or two good houses on the left hand side, and fields on the right hand, as far as the four cross roads, where the Midland Railway now crosses the road.
HERMITAGE ROAD,
leading from St. Ann’s-road to the Green-lanes, was a private road, the property of Mr. Scales. There were beautiful fields on either side, and half way up on the left stood four good houses, each standing in its own grounds. First came “Bridge House,” where Mr. Shirley Hibberd at one time resided. He was particularly fond of ivy, and had twenty-five different varieties growing in his garden.
Next was “The Retreat,” and then “Vale House,” of which the last occupier was Mr. San Giorgie. He kept an emu in the field opposite his house; children all round were very fond of going to see it. Lastly came “The Swiss Cottage.” The road was enclosed with park gates at each end. In those days it was a charming walk; now the aspect is entirely changed, the estate being covered with houses.
HANGER GREEN.
Opposite to this was a farm known as St. John’s Farm. A little further on there was a pretty house and large grounds, where Mr. John Robbins lived, the son-in-law of Mr. Newsam, who built St. Ann’s Church, Schools, etc. The Metropolitan Fever Hospital now stands on this site. A little further on, on the opposite side of the road, there was another farm, with cottage, having a verandah covered with white clematis which blossomed freely every year.
We now return to the High-road. Sherboro House School stood at the corner of Hanger-lane, one or two fields next to it, and then two large detached houses stood close together in their own grounds, well back from the road. These had fences of cleft oak palings; outside this was a strip of waste land turfed. Then a narrow ditch or water course, more turf enclosed with low white posts, and chains painted green, which gave it a very pretty and novel effect. Then more fields extended to the end of the road called the New-road, so called when it was completed in 1833 opening a thoroughfare from the High-road to Gloucester Gate, Regent’s Park. It was a quiet road and very lonely at night. There were only two houses before one reached the “Manor House,” where Queen Victoria alighted on her return journey from Cambridge in the year 1843. Close by was Hornsey Wood, and Hornsey Wood Tavern, where on Saturday afternoons noblemen came from the West End in four-horse coaches to practice rifle shooting. I remember hearing my mother say the nurse had taken me for a walk in the wood and lost her way, and after wandering about for some time was finally obliged to climb a tree to see what direction to take for the way out. On the left was the famous “Sluice House” and “Eel Pie House.” The wood was cleared, and the land added to that purchased to form Finsbury Park. Where the New River Bridge crosses the road there was on the left hand side a large house called “River House” in occupation of Mrs. Heathcote.
The West End omnibus ran to and fro three times daily. The fare was one shilling and sixpence each way. Mr. Willan, of The Hale Farm, was the proprietor.
This road is now known as the Seven Sisters-road, at the north corner of which there stood a pretty white detached house, with waste land in front, enclosed with posts and chains. It was called “Suffield Lodge,” and occupied by Mr. Bonny.
BLACK-UP OR BLACKHOPE LANE,
now called West Green-road. The grounds of the last-mentioned house extended some distance up the lane; then there were two large semi-detached houses with gardens in front and rear, belonging to, and the first occupied by Mr. John Beadnell. Then again fields and two cottages, and a small inn called “The Fountain”; then a terrace of good sized houses with large gardens, called Gloucester-terrace; then more fields to the end of the road, where stood two large semi-detached houses at the corner of “Spratt’s Row,” now called “Dagmar-road.”
WEST GREEN.
There was a pond in the middle of the green, railed all round, with an opening for cattle to be able to get to the water. A little distance further on was an estate called Lords Grove. Facing the pond there was an old-fashioned white house called “Gothic Cottage,” with garden and fields extending some distance down Blackup-lane; then all fields till one reached a large white house with verandah covered with beautiful creepers standing in its own grounds, with meadow beyond. The last tenant and owner was Richard Anstey Simmonds. He had the walls of his dining and drawing-room hand-painted, having artists from London to do it. Unfortunately the firm in which he placed all his money failed, and as it was before the time of limited liability, he was absolutely ruined. A subscription was started, to which the public generously responded, as every one was very sorry for him.
THE GROVE.
This was a very pretty sheltered place. There was a row of fine lime trees, and one especially beautiful chestnut tree in the middle. It was well turfed and enclosed with white posts and rails.
GROVE HOUSE.
Years ago this house was occupied by Mr. Ardesoif, a noted cook-fighter. He was once so enraged by his bird losing his bet that he threw it on a large fire. Grove House was afterwards occupied by Mr. Thomas Smith, the then Lord of the Manor. There is no house now attached to the Manor of Tottenham. The Society of Friends afterwards established a large boys’ school there, generally known as the Quakers’ School. This is now used for the Polytechnic and the Magistrates’ Court.
TOTTENHAM GREEN.
There was a large brick house, called “Eagle House,” which was afterwards used for a boys’ school. This was destroyed by fire, and Mr. Chassereau, the owner, had Norma-villas and Eagle-avenue erected on the site. Eaton House came next; Miss Toogood was owner and occupier. Then there was a very old-fashioned white-fronted house, which was unoccupied for a great many years, and the garden became overgrown with thistles and weeds. A Quaker lady named Coare kept a school here, and it was the scene of my mother’s earliest school days. About the year 1845 the house was demolished and two semi-detached houses erected. The tenant of one house kept a horse and chaise with a hood to it, and as there was no side entrance or accommodation for either, the horse was always led through the hall into the garden, where a temporary shed was erected, and the chaise was kept in the front garden, opposite the drawing-room window. Then came two large detached houses, only one of which now stands. The other, with the two white houses just mentioned, also Eaton House, were recently purchased by the Tottenham Urban District Council, and the Municipal Buildings erected. Lastly came a pretty white house, the residence of Mr. Benjamin Godfrey Windus. He was the possessor of some very fine paintings by Turner, and once a week he kindly allowed the public to see them, by ticket of admission. A few years after his death the house was taken down. With gardens, orchards, and meadows the land comprised 31 acres, 3 rods, 37 poles, and reached up what was then called West Green-road (now Philip-lane) as far as where the last of Stowe-villas now stands. Then there were fields as far as West Green Common.
Crossing over the road there was a good sized house and grounds. Next came a field with a stile at each end and footpath across. By the side of the field there was a road or carriage drive to
DOWNHILLS.
This was the property of Rowland Stephenson, Esq., and when he died it was, in 1808, offered for sale by auction by Messrs. Skinner, Dyke, Tuckin, and Forest, at Garraway’s Coffee House, Change Alley, London, in seven lots. The house was described as “The truly desirable residence of the late Rowland Stephenson, Esq., situated at Mount Pleasant, West Green, Tottenham, on a delightful eminence, commanding rich and picturesque prospects and agreeably remove from the public roads, and forming one of the most complete residences in the county.” The estate included a productive farm and lands containing three hundred and thirty acres, lying nearly within a ring fence. At this time the House was called “Mount Pleasant.” When I first knew it it was known as “Downhills.” Later on for a short time it was called “Uplands,” but in its last days was again called Downhills, when it was purchased by the Tottenham Urban District Council.
Across the fields by the house there was a public footpath, and it was a pretty walk leading to where Hornsey turnpike gate then stood. Not far from this was the very quaint old house called “Duckett’s Farm.”
Returning to West Green-road one next came to a very large house, the residence of Henry Scambler, of Scambler’s Livery Stables, City. Later on his nephew Thomas Owden lived there. He was Alderman, and in due time Lord Mayor of London. The house lay some distance back from the road, and was approached by a long straight carriage drive, with beautiful meadows on both sides. The estate was 31 acres 3 rods 39 poles in extent. The garden of the lodge was a sight to behold, especially in the spring time, when it was gay with flowers of every hue. Then there were four large houses, and adjoining a stretch of beautiful fields. The two first belonged to Mr. Robert Forster, where we children spent many a happy hour in haymaking time. The next belonged to Mr. Wm. Fowler, the banker. There, after haymaking was over, horses which were ill and required medical care were taken into graze, and it was a very pretty sight to see them march in a body to meet the veterinary surgeon when they saw him coming. It showed how grateful they were for his skill and kind attention. On the left hand side, where the fields belonged to Mount Pleasant Estate, there was a footpath across these fields into Lordship-lane. West Green-road was very lonely. Two young ladies, friends of mine, were walking alone, when just by these fields two tramps appeared and commenced taking off their jackets and dresses to steal them. Fortunately just at this moment a gentleman drove down the lane, and attracted by the children’s cries he came to their rescue. The tramps immediately made off, and he kindly drove the frightened girls to their parents’ house. Mr. Robert Forster lived, with his sisters, in the old-fashioned house that came next, and they built the almshouses that stand on part of their land, and called them “Forster’s Almshouses.” Round the bend of the road there were two large white houses. Mr. William Janson lived in the first, and in later years the other was occupied by Mr. Joseph Howard. He was the first member of Parliament for Tottenham, when in 1885 the ancient Parish of Tottenham and Wood Green was made into a separate constituency, and continued to be its Parliamentary representative for 20 years. Then came two good houses; next to these was a large garden and builder’s yard and house, occupied by Thomas Ashwell. On these premises was the room used for the infants’ school belonging to Trinity Church. It was also used for missionary meetings.
TOTTENHAM GREEN.
is the property of Sir William Curtis Baronet, the Lord of the Manor, and he gave a portion of it to the parish for the erection of Holy Trinity Church in 1829. In May, 1830, Holy Trinity, which was the Chapel of Ease to the Parish Church, was consecrated. The first minister appointed was the Rev. George Hodson Thompson. He lived at the corner of Page Green, and was succeeded by the Rev. George Brewster Twining. In the centre of the Church were benches which were free, and there were doors to the pews; there was always a full congregation. The gallery was mostly used for the children of the Green School on one side, and on the other the boys from Sherboro House School, Stamford Hill, of which Dr. Williams was the Principal. Mr. Barton was the organist, Peter Rickard the clerk, and the pew-opener was Mrs. Perrin. Occasionally the Rev. Mr. Newcome, the Vicar of All Hallows, would take the service. Once he told the congregation he would he unable to preach as he had left his spectacles at home. My grandmother called the pew-opener and sent him hers, which fortunately suited his sight. In those days a clergyman could hold two livings at a time. He was Vicar of Tottenham, and also of Shenley, where he resided. He used often to come and see my father, and always gave my mother his blessing. I remember once hearing him say, “I give you my blessing my dear, and oh what a pretty gown you have on!” At one time a lady living on the Green who was one of the congregation, asked my father, as churchwarden, to have the middle post at the entrance moved to make a wider space as she was so stout she could not get through. He at once complied with her request. I must not forget to mention how beautifully the churchyard was turfed, and how lovely it looked with the long-stalked white daisies. On coming out of Church I occasionally gave way to the temptation of gathering a few, although my mother used to say I ought not to do so, particularly on Sundays. I used to wonder why it was worse to do it on Sundays than other days.
I must not forget to mention at one time the organist played a voluntary between the prayers and the Litany, but it was discontinued as it was not generally liked.
For a great many years Mr. Twining rented a cottage in “Bull-row” to provide a home for four poor old women. They had one room each, and were very thankful for it.
There was always a large bonfire and fireworks on the Green on the 5th of November. This was discontinued when the traffic increased, as it frightened the horses. Boys used to play cricket here, and horses and cows were allowed to graze. On the occasion of the marriage of the Prince of Wales, now our King Edward VII., we had a captive balloon on the Green, and anyone who liked to ascend could do so. John Fowler, the beadle, availed himself of the offer. He did not appreciate the trip, as it made him feel very ill.
The large tree in the middle of the Green, by the High-road, I well remember being planted by Mr. Deane, of “The Yews,” a great authority on parish matters. Some of the trees on the East Green were planted by Mr. Twining’s son and my brother when they were boys.
We next come to the High Cross Pump. The well was dug and the pump erected at the expense of Mr. Thomas Smith, the Lord of the Manor, in the early part of last century, in consideration of his having been allowed to enclose a piece of waste land, near Grove House, where he resided. The water from this pump supplied a large portion of the parish, and many people earned their living by taking it about in barrels upon wheels, selling it at a penny a pail. In 1883 the well was closed.
The White Swan Inn at the opposite corner of the road had a small railed-in garden at the side in which stood a high white pole surmounted by a large white swan. This inn was a favourite resort of Izaak Walton, the famous angler. He often came to Tottenham to enjoy fishing in the River Lea, and rested, as one may read in “The Compleat Angler,” “in the sweet shady arbour which Nature herself has woven with her own fingers; ’tis such a contexture of woodbines, sweet briar, jessamine and myrtle.”
Adjoining were a lot of small, old-fashioned houses; a narrow entrance called High Cross Court, with cottages in the rear. There was a large carriage factory next, with a yard and more cottages, and the builder’s house in the front; three more houses, then the two houses, in the first of which Dr. Edward Curtis May, father of the present Dr. Edward Hooper May, lived. Tottenham at that time could only boast of two doctors—Dr. Holt and Dr. May. I always think with pleasure of the mansion that came next; it was here I spent such happy days at school, the three Misses Wilson were such kind and considerate teachers. It was a boarding school, but my sister and I, with a few others, were day boarders. We had to rise early, have our breakfast, and be at school at 7 a.m., say our lessons with the boarders, and then while they were breakfasting we learnt our lessons for the next day. The house was called “The Elms.” In front of it stood a magnificent row of elm trees; at the back was a large garden, and beyond that a meadow. My father sold this estate to the Drapers’ Company about 1848, when the house was taken down and a school for boys and two rows of almshouses built.
The houses after this were all small and, I may say, uninteresting, and reached as far as the field, which Mr. Robert Forster used as a brickfield. Here there was a pond, and the well, known as St. Loy’s Well, in a field adjoining, about 500 ft. from the High-road. This well was said to be always full but never running over, and the properties to be the same as the waters of the Cheltenham Springs. It was cleaned out in the sixteenth century, and at the bottom was found a great stone having certain letters or characters on it, but unfortunately the workmen carelessly broke and defaced it, so it was not known what the characters meant.
The houses next were only medium-sized as far as “The Old Ship Inn,” which was then a long, low, rambling building one story high and attics. At the corner by Bruce Grove there was Myers’ the builders’ and stonemasons’ yard and two good houses, one occupied by Miss Keating, sister to the Keating of cough lozenge fame, the corner one by Dr. Edward Curtis May after he left the High Cross. These were all pulled down and the great Eastern Railway Station built on the site.
BRUCE GROVE.
This was a quiet retired spot; the houses were all good, some very large, and nearly all were occupied by Quakers. Mr. William Fowler’s house, at the end, had beautiful grounds, the meadows extending to the end of the narrow walk leading to Bruce Castle. Flocks of rooks made their nests and found a shelter in the trees there. It was so peaceful, with fields on either side, with a low open iron railing. The only sound to be heard was the caw caw of the rooks who always seemed as if they had something important to discuss, and they left off reluctantly when their bedtime came.
On the North side was a row of very old and noble elm trees. By the side of the middle one stood a box which was a shelter for a “Charley.” Charleys were the precursors of policemen. One of their duties was to call out every half-hour the time, and the state of the weather. I remember hearing “half-past nine, and a fine starry night,” or “ten o’clock and a foggy night.” Their life was not altogether an enviable one. It occasionally happened that some young men, returning home rather late, thought it a joke to upset the box with the Charley inside, and there he had to stay till by some means or other he was liberated.
Many years ago there lived in one of the houses here a lady who thought and said she was unable to move from her chair. The doctor who was attending her assured her again and again that it was only her imagination. As she still persisted in refusing to try, he determined to prove to her that it was possible; so on his next visit, after talking to her for some time, he got up and rang the bell. On her asking his reason he replied he wished to speak to his coachman. When the maid came in response to the ring he requested her to send him up. The lady, in amazement said, “What can you want with your coachman in my bedroom, doctor?” He simply replied, “You will see, madam.” The man came and received the order, “Bring up a truss of straw,” which he did, and was told to put it under that lady’s chair and set light to it; but before this could be done up sprang the lady, and from that day no more was heard of her refusal to move, and the doctor congratulated himself on his success. At that time there were several doctors living in Tottenham who did not practise here, one of them being a friend of a lady living in Bruce Grove and who attended her through an illness. When she quite recovered he told her he should not be coming again for a little while as she was so much better. She told him she hoped he would continue his visits, as the truth was she had taken a fancy to him, and would like to be his wife. Unfortunately he was not of the same mind.
The Crossway Path was a pretty walk leading to Love-lane, which was a narrow lane running parallel with the High-road to White Hart-lane. Part of this lane is now Pembury-road. In 1871, when the G.E.R. bridge was erected, this path was closed.
At the corner of Bruce Grove was a lodge, and where Maitland-terrace now stands was a long and very pretty garden rented by Mr. William Janson; at the end of this he had “The Lecture Hall” built, which was used for a library and different kinds of entertainments. As the facilities for getting to town were not what they are now, it was a great boon to the neighbourhood. We spent many a pleasant evening there, but after a time it was not successful. I have been told that in its latter days the hall was engaged by some nigger minstrels for an entertainment. The evening arrived and a good audience assembled in hopes of having an enjoyable time. After waiting patiently, and as the entertainment did not commence, some one went to enquire the reason, when directly one of the performers came on the platform and sang, “We are going to skedaddle, skedaddle, skedaddle; we’re going to skedaddle away,” and then ran back into the retiring-room. The audience laughed, thinking this was part of the performance and waited still longer; but getting impatient enquiries were again made, when it was found the minstrels had been as good as their word. Not finding them in the retiring-room, some one looked out of the front door and saw the last one in the act of getting in the omnibus, which at once drove off. They took the admission money with them, and were never heard of again.
For many years this hall was then used by the Plymouth Brethren, as their place of worship. When Mr. Janson’s lease expired the hall was let to the Tottenham Constitutional Club. There used to be four houses next, with gardens in front. These were taken down and the sorting office and the London and Provincial Bank built. When this Bank was first opened the business was carried on in one of the shops in Commerce-terrace opposite.
Adjoining Bruce Grove House, where Dr. Vos now lives, is the carriage factory, the business of which was for so many years carried on by Messrs. Glover and Sons. One son had a most miraculous escape from death. During a very heavy thunderstorm, not feeling well, he went upstairs to lie down. Some time after, feeling better, he went downstairs again. He had only just left the room when a thunderbolt fell on his bed, on the very spot where he had been lying.
The private roadway at the side led to the Tottenham Brewery (then kept by Messrs. Fullagar and Freeman) and ended in Love-lane. Adjoining Charlton Cottage was the house Dr. Holt lived in; one of the two doctors then practising in Tottenham. He was succeeded by Dr. Hall, who was so well known.