Part 2

Where the police Station now stands there originally was a large house enclosed in a high brick wall, and was built in 1776 by Will Latimer, of Warwick. It had a flight of stone steps to the front door, and a window in the hall on each side of the door. The occupier was the Rev. Thomas Powell, afterwards called “Miser Powell.” He was going to be married, and on the morning of the day of the wedding was to take place he received a message from the lady, saying she had altered her mind. From then until his death he never let a woman enter his house, and never went out, excepting now and then when he preached at St. Paul’s Cathedral. He had a large garden with bathroom and swimming bath in the middle of the lawn, all beautifully tiled; at the back there was a fish pond and meadow. The last time I saw him he was looking over the high brick wall with a blanket over his shoulders. He used to give dinner parties to his gentlemen friends; everything prepared and sent down with waiters from London.

The Rev. Thomas Powell was a very clever author and artist, and had commenced drawing figures of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John on the staircase. It was his intention to have them frescoed. I was told he left all his money and estate to the London Hospital, but that only £40,000 went to the Hospital, the estate had to go to the heir at law, a gentleman named “Mieux,” his sister’s son, who afterwards sold it to the British Land Company.

I think Mr. Powell must have been particularly fond of violets, they grew in his garden in such profusion.

THE POUND ALMSHOUSES.

There were originally only four almshouses, but in 1847, when the Pound was removed to the waste land in The Hale, three old inhabitants, Mr. Thomas Corney, Mr. William Janson, and Mr. John Day, had three others erected at their own expense.

STONELEYS SOUTH, NOW STONELEYS ROAD.

The building which still stands at the corner of the road was originally the Girls’ Green School, or School of Industry, and was used for this purpose until 1862, when the present buildings were erected in Somerset-road. The girls always looked very nice in their uniform, which consisted of a green dress, white tippet, apron and cap, and a coarse straw bonnet trimmed with green. The school was supported by voluntary contributions. Stoneley South, at the entrance, has not altered much in appearance since I first remember it, but in those days after passing the house and premises which stands between Balthazar-street and Stoneleys-road, which was then occupied by William Humphreys, carpenter and builder, there was nothing but fields, with a public footpath across leading into Down-lane. This was the only way of reaching The Hale, unless one went by way of High Cross-lane.

PLOUGH INN.

The old Plough Inn was a long, low building, very quaint and picturesque with gabled roof, lying back from the road, with large open space in front, and cottages down one side.

The Court Leet for Tottenham was held here for a great number of years. John Brooks, the landlord, was also one of the Homage. The old inn, which was built in 1537, was taken down in 1891 and another building erected by the side of the roadway, which was then opened, and leads to the Marshes.

BROOK STREET.

The Plymouth Brethren Chapel was built at Mr. Robert Howard’s expense. It has a burial ground on the opposite side of the street. I never remember seeing more than one tomb stone; it was to the memory of Jane Johnson, and that has lately been taken away.

There was an old sweet stuff shop in front by the High-road, the floor of which was below the level of the road. Adjoining here is the block of houses and shops which are now about being taken down to widen the road for the electric tramway cars. On the site where Knight’s, the pawnbrokers, was built, at the corner of Waverley-road, stood the old George and Vulture Inn. It had a very large room at the back, and the Royal family used to come down to attend balls there.

WAVERLEY ROAD.

At the back, down the turning, there was a good sized house and large garden, with lake and bridge, in occupation of Mr. Thos. Finney.

The Wesleyan Methodist Chapel was the first built in Tottenham. The lease had just expired in 1882, when it was burned down. It stood back a little distance from the road, with burial ground in front, reaching to the footpath in High-road.

On this site Messrs. G. L. Wilson’s premises were built. This is the second time they have been built as there was another very large fire in 1904.

FACTORY LANE.

In 1815 a mill for winding silk was built; this failed, and in 1820 it was opened as a lace factory. This also proved unsuccessful, and in 1837 it was opened as an India rubber factory, and was the means of providing work for hundreds of people.

Some years ago half of this factory and Silk Mill-terrace was sold at auction to the Licensed Victuallers’ Company. This half has lately been taken down and Pembroke-terrace, as it was afterwards called, converted into shops and Parr’s Bank.

PEMBROKE HOUSE.

A pretty white house, with verandah covered with creepers, and large garden. The house stood back in its own grounds, and was enclosed by a brick wall and a beautiful row of chesnut and lime trees that were very much admired, as were also the sweet voices of the birds who made their nests there.

This house has been pulled down and shops have been built on the spot. A good many years ago there was a very sad accident. A drove of bullocks was being driven past; one got loose, pinned Mr. Glover, the coach builder, who lived opposite, to the wall, and gored him to death.

Before we had the railway in The Hale many droves of cattle were continually driven along the High-road to the London markets.

Where Commerce-terrace now stands there were several houses, one called the “Ivy House,” as it was covered with ivy, occupied by Mr. Henry Hayes. It was enclosed in iron railings with very beautiful iron gates, and had a large garden, which extended all the way down to the end of Reform-row.

SANCHEZ’S ALMSHOUSES.

These almshouses bearing his name, and consisting of eight tenements, were built by him in the year 1596. Four were for aged women widows, and four for aged men widowers. Each pensioner had £4 annually by quarterly payments, and there was a biennial allowance of £6 for the purchase of a gown of black frieze of 20s. value from the owners of the Stoneleigh Estate. The latter was discontinued years ago and money given instead. There was also £1 per annum recreation money for the Committee. They are now closed, pending rebuilding.

It was a pleasure to talk to the inmates. One in particular, a Mrs. Martin, loved to recall the days of her youth, which had been passed in a village near Hatfield. She remembered when Napoleon Bonaparte was regarded as a kind of ogre, and when naughty children were told “Boney is coming” it reduced them to a state of abject terror. One day a man was seen coming towards the village on a dandy horse, when the cry was raised “Boney has come at last.” The children fled in wild alarm to hide themselves. She and her little brother crept under a four-post bedstead, and it was a long time before her mother could induce her to believe that there was no cause for fear, and that she might emerge with safety, which after much persuasion she did, but her brother refused to leave his hiding place for the whole of that day. When she was a little older she was put to school by a lady, and in return she had to do her needlework, most of the school time being taken up in this way. Before sewing machines were invented a woman’s time was fully occupied in doing the needlework for her family. Ready-made articles were unknown. Girls were taught to be very thorough in their work, and if they wished for embroidery they had to make it themselves.

QUAKERS’ MEETING HOUSE

or Society of Friends is adjoining. It was erected in 1744, and enlarged about the year 1775, and fitted with seats for about 400 persons. Considerable additions were made in 1832. There is also a burial ground attached to it, which was added in 1803, and was closed some years back.

The deceased were interred in rows without any distinction, and a plan kept which identified the spot where the departed friend was interred. There are neither grave stones nor any other monuments to mark the spot where any one lies.

At one time there was a number of this sect in Tottenham—a very admirable class of people, thoroughly just and genuine. Their dress was rather quaint, but worthy of great admiration; neatness, goodness, and simplicity form the three features of it. The poke bonnet was perfect, with the sweet little goffered frill round, in nearly all cases, a nice face, so suitable to the wearer; then generally a dove or mouse-coloured silk gown, neatly made and very ample in the skirt, just to escape the ground. It would have been a great fault to have a speck of dirt on them of any kind. They were scrupulously clean and on no account did they like or allow their ankles to be seen.

A friend of mine knew two old lady Quakers who many years ago kept, for amusement, a small private school of twelve or fourteen children; she herself was one of the pupils for eight or ten years, and admired them exceedingly with their pretty white caps drawn tightly with cords, but at the same time thought them a little sharp. Of course in those days each child had individual attention, and she remembers perfectly well, when being taught to write, the old lady with ruler in her hand, the pupil seated at the table; if the pen was not held properly, down came the ruler thump across the knuckles without any warning.

Another little incident. They were very keen on sampler work, and if one did not put the needle into the canvas quite right, the first thing cue felt was the needle run into one’s fingers.

The child of to-day would not appreciate that kind of treatment; nor did they then.

This same friend also told me of a Quaker who had a very large grocer’s shop. He was often asked for a little piece of string by the country women, and I suppose he got rather tired of giving it, so on one occasion he said in his quiet way, “Take what thy conscience will allow.” The woman said it would allow her to take it all.

They always looked well after their pounds, shillings, and pence, and very often amassed large fortunes; it is rare to hear of a really poor Quaker. In this respect they are very good to one another and talk little about it.

I must not forget to mention the men’s attire; it was then as quaint as the women’s. They were always dressed in brown or drab cutaway coats, without any collar to them; low hats with a brim nearly as wide as the depth of the hat; and very often knee breeches. Many allowed their hair to grow very long.

Then the service in their meeting house, as their place of worship was called, is rather strange. They all sit perfectly quiet, until the spirit moves them, and then, be it man or woman, stand up and expound.

Next to the Friends’ Meeting House there used to be an apothecary’s shop, kept by a Mr. Silver. It was a one-storey building. The shop had two rounded windows close together, the door being at the side. In each window stood a row of coloured bottles, but for many years no business was transacted here. By the terms of Mr. Silver’s will the shop was to be left for a certain number of years as it was on the day of his death. During this time Mr. Thomas Shillitoe, one of the Society of Friends, opened a chemist’s shop next door. He had what I considered a very objectionable habit. When pouring out medicine he always licked the last drop from the bottle.

SCOTLAND GREEN.

In front there is what was formerly known as the Blue School, where the girls were educated free. It is now the Middle Class School. Upon a portion of the site stood the Watch House, prisoner’s cage, and John Fowler’s house, who was the Parish Beadle. This was quite sufficient at that time, and in case of more help being required, a constable was sent for to London. Then the Police Station at the High Cross was built, and the whole of the site taken for the Middle Class School.

A great many of the old cottages are now standing on Scotland Green. They used to have strange names to identify them then, such as “Ward’s Alley,” “Tubby’s Alley,” “Stack Yard,” etc., by which names they are still known. The Moselle crosses the road there from High-road and empties itself into the Carbuncle Ditch.

There used to be an old-fashioned house and large pleasure and kitchen garden, occupied by Mrs. John Holt. This was taken down and two good houses built, both occupied by doctors, viz., Dr. Watson and Dr. Jackson, who were the first tenants.

The adjoining detached house, now called “Rheola,” was occupied by Miss Mary Stacey for a very great many years. She was a very philanthropic lady, and one of the Society of Friends. She would often have gentlemen who were to give addresses at the meeting at her house, and would entertain them. Once one called whom she did not know, but believing him to be what he represented himself, she invited him to take tea and spend the night, but the next morning he was missing, and so was her handsome silver tea pot which had been used the evening before.

The next house was called the “White House,” and for many years was occupied by Mrs. Martha Horne, also one of the Society of Friends. A small white house adjoining, occupied by Mr. Linzell, and the old Red Lion Inn, which extended over the land which now forms the entrance to Lansdowne-road, were pulled down and the present Red Lion built and Lansdowne-road formed in or about the year 1870. I do not see much difference till we come to the Bell Brewery. On this side stood a pretty one-storey detached cottage, where Mr. Haddon’s clerk lived. This was taken down and the bottling stores erected.

There was a large shop next, kept by Mr. Johnson, tallow chandler—a shop much patronized, as candles were our principal illuminant. It was not till 1847 that the Gas Company was formed. The window was very tastefully arranged with different coloured wax candles of all sizes; very high ones in the middle, graduating to quite small ones. The house adjoining was at one time a school, afterwards a chemist’s shop, and is now in the occupation of Mr. Bately.

“Marie House” was the property of, and occupied by Miss Jemima Arabella Holt. She gave the ground on which St. Paul’s Church was built in 1858. For some years previous to this services had been held in an iron building by the Rev. Mr. Harrison. He once had bills printed announcing he would preach three sermons on consecutive Sunday evenings, the subjects being “Thieves, Thieves,” “Fire, Fire,” and “Are you Insured.” On each occasion the building was crowded.

PARK LANE, FORMERLY MARSH LANE.

Near the High-road was an old house called “The Beggars’ Lodging-house.” It was a great boon to tramps, as they found accommodation here for a very small sum. A large fire was always burning brightly in the winter evenings.

The National School for Boys was built in 1841, and the Drill Hall in 1864. Here the Vestries were held for some years. There were two nurseries on the left hand side of the lane, and then on both sides fields till one came to Willoughby-lane. Here stood Willoughby House; there was not much architectural beauty about it; it was a one-storied, straight-looking, white building, with three windows on either side of the door, and seven on the floor above. There was not much land attached to it, only a little over nine acres in all. Mr. Henry Lewis Smale was the owner and the last occupier. In the eighteenth century it belonged to Daniel Booth, Esq., the Governor of the Bank of England.

“The Crow’s Nest,” a quaint old house, was on the opposite side of the way, and next came Willoughby Farm, the property of the Rector of St. Luke’s, Old-street, E.C. There was an old farmhouse and upwards of fifty-one acres of land.

COOMBES CROFT HOUSE,

which in the eighteenth century was called “Coney Bee’s Croft,” was formerly the Workhouse, and quite large enough for all requirements. The deeds relating to the Parish lands were kept here, in a tin box, within an iron repository.

EDMONTON WORKHOUSE,

which was built in 1841–2, is one of the largest in England, and none too large for present requirements. Coombes Croft was then used for several different purposes. At one time it was a Home for Little Boys, and afterwards offices for the Local Board of Health. This body was not organised until 1850, when the meetings were held at the Free Grammar School.

The private improvement rate was made when the main works for the water supply and drainage were approaching completion. This the owner could either pay at once, and in that case was entitled to a reduction, or it could extend over a period not exceeding thirty years. All who were able to pay in one sum did so. Mr. Heath was the first clerk. He served the Board for nineteen years, and was succeeded in 1869 by Mr. Crowne, who still holds the office of Clerk to the Tottenham Urban District Council. When Mr. Crowne first came Tottenham and Wood Green were one parish. In 1888 they were separated, and Wood Green became a separate parish in 1894. Years ago there was so little postal work that only one postman was employed for the two parishes.

“The Three Coneys” was the original name of what is now known as “The Bell and Hare.” Passing by Park-lane there were several good houses—one was called “The Cedars.” The name was given to it on account of two beautiful cedar trees in the garden, which were planted by Queen Elizabeth on one of her visits to Tottenham. The next house has been occupied by a doctor as long as I remember, and the adjoining house, lately called “The Vicarage,” was first used for that purpose when the Rev. J. G. Hale was Vicar of All Hallows; prior to this it was occupied by Capt. Goss, the first commanding officer of the local Volunteers. The title deeds of the next house, occupied by the late Mrs. Mudge, date back as far as the time of Charles I. It has a basement kitchen, with very low ceiling. The steps from the road lead into the sitting-room, and when one has passed through the door there is still a step to be taken to get on the floor; the windows extending below the level of the floor.

In the small house, which came next, James Filsell, the Parish Clerk, lived. He had the care of the parish map; this is now kept in the vestry room at All Hallows.

THE DIAL HOUSE,

which has a sun dial on the side of the house, dated 1691, still stands to speak for itself.

THE BLACK HOUSE

was the peculiar name of a very old house which formerly stood opposite White Hart-lane. It was partly built of brick and partly of stone, with large iron gates before it. This house belonged to a favourite of Henry VIII., named Hynningham, whose family are buried in the church. Henry VIII. frequently came here. In one of the rooms was an inscription, “In this chamber King Henry VIII. hath often lyen.” The remains of this house were in 1631 part of the out-offices of Mr. Gerard Gore, in whose mansion Sir John Coke, Secretary of State, resided during the summer months. The same house was later on occupied by Sir Hugh Smithson, who on the death of his wife’s father became second Earl of Northumberland.

In April, 1889, there was in the “Quarterly Review” an interesting article on the “Annals of the House of Percy,” from which it appears that the Duke and Duchess of Somerset had a large family, of whom six attained maturity. The oldest of these was Algernon, Earl of Hertford. He married the daughter of Henry Thynne, and in 1722, on the death of his mother, he succeeded to her honours, and was summoned to the House of Lords as Baron Percy. He had two children, Elizabeth, born in 1716, and George Lord Beauchamp, born in 1725. When Lady Elizabeth Seymour was twenty-three years old she paid a visit to her cousin, Lady Lowther, at Swillington, and here she met Sir Hugh Smithson, a Baronet of good family and possessing a large estate in Yorkshire. The young people were mutually attracted. Lady Elizabeth received his attentions with pleasure, and wrote to her mother regarding his proposal of marriage that “had it met with my pappa’s approbation, and your’s, I should very willingly have consented to it.” Satisfactory answers having been received to questions as to Sir Hugh’s position, Lord and Lady Hertford gladly consented, but the proud Duke of Somerset did not consider the alliance was good enough for his grand-daughter. However, he at last gave a grudging assent, mainly because the suitor was in the present possession of an ample fortune, and had a good prospect of a future inheritance from an uncle, old Mr. Smithson, of Tottenham High Cross; but he made it plain to Lady Elizabeth that he considered it her duty to stand out for more advantageous terms than had satisfied her father and mother, for he said, “You are descended by many generations from the most antient familys in England, and it is you that doth add antient blood to Sir Hugh Smithson’s family; he adds no such antient blood to your family.” But the old uncle absolutely declined to be tied up by any legal process, saying “It was true, he was no Duke, nor boasted of any such great alliance, but in point of honourable dealing he would yield to no man.” The Duke being at last satisfied, the marriage was solemnized on the 18th July, 1740. The happy pair did not lose much time before they paid a visit of state to the kind uncle who had paved the way to happiness for them, she in a silver stuff of four pounds a yard, and Sir Hugh in a lead colour and silver stuff embroidered with silver. For four years life ran smoothly for them, and then suddenly, in the autumn of 1744, young Lord Beauchamp died of small-pox at Bologna, and Lady Elizabeth Smithson became sole heiress of the honours which her father had inherited from his mother, the last of the Percys. The Duke of Somerset was furious at the extinction of all hope of the direct continuance of his honours. He had always hated his daughter-in-law, Lady Hertford, and he now included his son in that hatred, to whom, as Horace Walpole said, “he wrote the most shocking letter imaginable,” telling him that it is a judgment upon him for all his undutifulness, and that he must always look upon himself as the cause of his son’s death.

The old Duke petitioned the King to confer upon him the Earldom of Northumberland, with remainder, after his son’s death, to his grandson Sir Charles Wyndham, and so to exclude Lady Elizabeth, the rightful heiress. In this project he was not successful, and in due time Lady Elizabeth’s husband became Duke of Northumberland, assuming the surname of Percy. Their married life was a very happy one; he was devoted to her, and she returned the devotion, calling him “my dearest angel” and “joy of my soul.” The house in which they lived in Tottenham was taken down and a row of houses erected, called “Northumberland Row,” the middle one being named “Percy House.” In some of these houses is some very curious carved work. Part of the old house and part of the garden wall still remains next the road.

Passing Northumberland Park there are still some old houses to be seen before arriving at Union Court, which is on the boundary of Tottenham and Edmonton.

Having spoken of the East side of the High-road, I will now start again from Stamford Hill on the West side.

First came a large detached house standing in its own grounds with a moat and a drawbridge. This drawbridge was last used in the early part of last century, when a large number of gipsies were seen approaching the house.