Part 1

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Bold text is denoted by =equal signs=.

Large-size letters used to describe shapes or trade marks are denoted by @at-signs@.

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within the text and consultation of external sources.

More detail can be found at the end of the book.

PIECE GOODS MANUAL.

PIECE GOODS MANUAL.

FABRICS DESCRIBED; TEXTILE, KNIT GOODS, WEAVING TERMS, ETC., EXPLAINED; WITH NOTES ON THE CLASSIFICATION OF SAMPLES.

_Compiled and Illustrated, as an Aid to Members of the Chinese Maritime Customs Service_,

BY

A. E. BLANCO,

_Second Assistant, A, Chinese Maritime Customs_.

SHANGHAI:

STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT

OF THE

INSPECTORATE GENERAL OF CUSTOMS.

1917.

PREFACE.

The following pages represent an attempt to compile, primarily for the benefit of members of the Chinese Maritime Customs Service, descriptions of cotton, woollen, and other fabrics, their weaves and finishes, etc., together with other information concerning terms currently used in the piece goods trade which are likely to be met with in invoices, applications, or contracts.

This manual does not embrace all textiles known to the trade, but it does cover all those enumerated in the "Revised Import Tariff for the Trade of China," as well as many others. As far as possible the commonly accepted trade name has been used. It should, however, be borne in mind that many fabrics are known in the trade by a variety of names, so that one branch of the trade may not recognise a name applied to the same fabric by another branch.

The descriptions have been built up from information obtained first hand from practical weavers, manufacturers, wholesale and retail merchants, buyers, etc., as well as from personal visits to mills in the Manchester and Huddersfield districts, and from standard works on weaving. To Mr. G. W. Shaw, of Botham Hall, Huddersfield, I am indebted for introductions to the principal manufacturers in that district, enabling me to go through such mills as those of Mr. A. Whitwam and Messrs. Godfrey Sykes, where every phase of manufacture from raw material to finished goods was shown and explained with characteristic Yorkshire thoroughness. I am indebted for either information or actual samples, or both, to:--

Mr. A. F. H. Baldwin, American Commercial Attaché, London.

John Bright & Bros., Limited, Rochdale.

Mr. A. J. Brook, Huddersfield.

Mr. C. W. Bunn, Deputy Appraiser, New York.

Mr. F. Chitham, Director, Selfridge & Co., Limited, London.

Mr. W. E. Dale-Shaw, Huddersfield.

Drey, Simpson, & Co., Limited, Stockport.

"Dry Goods Economist," New York.

W. & C. Dunlop, Bradford.

Fisher & Co., Huddersfield.

Mr. W. R. Gandell, Board of Trade, London.

Horrockses, Crewdson, & Co., Limited, Preston.

W. G. Humphreys & Co., London.

Mr. A. F. Kendrick, Board of Education, London.

The London Chamber of Commerce.

McCaw Allan & Co., Lurgan.

Selfridge & Co., Limited, London.

Mr. A. Sutton, Piece Goods Expert, Board of Trade, London.

Tanner Bros., Greenfield.

Mr. F. Walker, Huddersfield.

William Watson & Co., London.

Alfred Young & Co., Limited, London.

The Board of Trade (through their Piece Goods Expert, Mr. A. Sutton), John Bright & Bros., Limited, and Selfridge & Co., Limited, realising the value of classified information concerning descriptions of piece goods, have very kindly supplied me with ranges of samples.

The following works have been consulted, and their contents have materially assisted me. I take the opportunity of acknowledging my indebtedness to their authors, as well as to those of any other works consulted but which may have been omitted from this list:--

"Analysis of Woven Fabrics," by A. F. Barker and E. Midgley.

Bennett's "Glossary of Fabrics."

"Cotton," by R. J. Peake.

"Cotton Goods in China," by Ralph M. Odell, U.S. Commercial Agent.

"How to Buy and Judge Materials," by H. B. Heylin.

House of Representatives Document No. 643 (Report of Tariff Board on Schedule 1 of the Tariff Law).

"Silk," by L. Hooper.

"Textiles," by William H. Dooley.

"Textiles," by Paul H. Nystrom, Ph.D.

"The Cotton Weaver's Handbook," by H. B. Heylin.

The Cotton Year Book.

"The Draper's Dictionary," by S. William Beck.

The Wool Year Book.

"Wool," by J. A. Hunter.

I wish specially to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. A. Sutton, Piece Goods Expert to the Board of Trade, London, for having perused the manuscript of the "Piece Goods Manual" and for the painstaking manner in which he pointed out where modifications were advisable. His suggestions have enabled me to revise definitions so as to make them agree with accepted trade interpretations.

A. E. BLANCO.

LONDON, 1915-16.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Plain Weave Figure 1.

Three-end Twill Weave " 2.

Four-end Twill Weave " 3.

Four-end Weft Twill Weave " 4.

Two-and-two Twill Weave " 5.

Irregular Twill Weave " 6.

Five-end Warp Sateen Weave " 7.

Five-end Weft Sateen Weave " 8.

Simple Plain Gauze Weave " 9.

Weft-pile Weave " 10.

PIECE GOODS MANUAL.

=Actual.=--The terms "actual" and "nominal" are used in the trade to indicate (1) that the width should be taken as stated or (2) that a certain amount of allowance should be made. "Actual" implies that the width is not less than stated. "Nominal" means that the width of the cloth may vary as much as half an inch below width given on contract.

=Agaric.=--A cotton fabric of loop yarn construction, having a surface somewhat similar to a fine Turkish Towelling.

=Albatross.=--A dress fabric of worsted warp and worsted filling of open texture and fancy weaves. When the name is applied to a cotton fabric it is used to designate a plain-woven all-cotton fabric, soft, fine, and free from ornamentations, made in imitation of the worsted fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface, is generally sold in white, black, or solid colours, being used instead of Bunting for flags. Not often used for printing, for which purpose it is not well adapted.

=Alhambra Quilt.=--An all-cotton counterpane woven with a coarse waste weft known as Candlewick. A loosely woven coloured warp yarn is used for the figuring and a grey "sticking" warp for securing the weft in position.

=Alpaca.=--This name is given to a fabric woven with a cotton warp and an alpaca wool weft. The fabric is classed as a lustre fabric, this being due to the predominance of the lustrous weft. Generally plain woven with a simple one-over and one-under weave, Alpaca is, when solid coloured, a cross-dyed fabric, i.e., one in which the cotton warp yarns were dyed prior to weaving and the piece of fabric piece-dyed after leaving the loom. Similar to Lustre Orleans, Mohair Brilliantine, and Mohair Sicilian, which are typical lustre fabrics.

=Alpaca Wool= is the fleece of the Peruvian sheep, which is a species of llama. The staple is of good length and soft, but is not quite as lustrous as mohair. The natural colours are white, black, brown, and fawn.

=Alpacianos.=--Nothing seems to be recorded in any modern book dealing with textiles or in any technical dictionary concerning any fabric known by the name of Alpacianos. The name, however, appears in the Revised Import Tariff for the trade of China, from which it would appear to be an all-cotton fabric, piece-dyed after leaving the loom, probably averaging between 28 and 31 inches in width and about 25 yards in length. The name is probably of South American origin.

=American Sheetings.=--A rather coarse make of plain-woven grey cloth, woven from coarse yarns (about 20's counts), 48 threads of warp and the same number of weft picks to the inch, and generally woven with "twist way" weft. Another name for this material is Cabot. Average width, 36 inches; length, 40 yards per piece. Weight varies. The use of the name Sheeting, as applied to this class of material, is now firmly established but incorrect, Sheetings originally being a two-and-two twill fabric having a width of as much as 120 inches.

=Angola.=--This name is used to designate a plain or twill weave fabric having a cotton warp and a weft made from cotton and wool scribbled together prior to being spun. The proportion of wool to cotton varies. This scribbled wool and cotton yarn, or Angola Wool as it is called, generally contains about 20 per cent. of cotton and 80 per cent. of wool.

=Angola Yarn or Wool.=--A yarn spun from a mixture of 80 per cent. wool and 20 per cent. cotton.

=Angora.=--Angora is the name of a species of goat which yields a wool commercially known as Mohair. This kind of wool enters largely into the classes of goods known as Astrakhan, Crépon, Plushes, Brilliantine, Zibelines, fine Cashmeres, and other fabrics usually sold as all wool. It enters into the manufacture of very high-grade fabrics in combination with silk. More lustrous than wool, it has not, however, the warmth-retaining properties of the latter.

=Angora Goat.=--A species of goat originally bred in Asia Minor, producing Mohair fibre. From the long silky hair of this goat was made Turkish Yarn or Camel Yarn. The name Camel Yarn has led to mistakes; it has no reference to the camel, but is derived from the Arabic word _chamal_, fine.

=Animalised Cotton.=--To increase the affinity of cotton for dye-stuffs and at the same time increase its lustre, cotton is sometimes treated with solutions of wool, silk, or gelatine in such a manner that when the solvent has evaporated the coated surface remains sufficiently pliable not to crack under normal conditions.

=Armure.=--A weave which produces a fine pebbled surface.

=Artificial Silk.=--In the making of artificial silk, cellulose prepared from wood or cotton is turned into a nitro-cellulose by treatment with nitric acid. This nitro-cellulose is made liquid by dissolving it in ether and alcohol, then forced under pressure through very fine tubes, or forced through holes of about 1/250th of an inch pierced in a platinum plate, in the form of very fine threads, from which the ether and alcohol evaporate readily, leaving the nitro-cellulose as a fine lustrous fibre. Artificial silk is often used in the ornamentation of figured fabrics. It bears a very deceptive resemblance to true silk, but the individual fibres are coarser and burn very quickly, without the typical smell of true silk and without the hard bubble of ash. Its value is about a third of that of the best silk, but as an offset to this must be taken its higher specific gravity. If of equal thickness, the length of thread, weight for weight, is only from half to two-thirds that of real silk.

=Astrakhan.=--A fabric having a curly, wavy surface resembling Astrakhan fleece. There are three varieties of this kind of fabric, each produced on a different principle: (1) on the weft principle, in which, owing to shrinkage of the ground texture, the pile weft is thrown up and forms a curly loop; (2) on the warp texture principle, in which a thick curly warp yarn is brought over wires to form the necessary loops; and (3) the cheapest form, as a knitted fabric.

Astrakhan varies as regards the size of the loop which goes to make the curl. The lustre yarn that is used is curled before use, the curl being fixed by heat. The ground texture is cotton. Width varies from 48 to 50 inches; weight from 19 to 36 ounces per yard of the 50-inch wide material. The heavier grades run 35 to 40 yards per piece, the lighter grades from 50 to 55 yards. Generally met with in solid black or a grey produced by blending black and white fibres, also in solid white. Astrakhans have generally an uncut pile, but are sometimes finished with part of the loop curls cut, say, 50 per cent., which gives the fabric the appearance of woolly fur with complete curls at intervals.

=Back Cloth.=--An unbleached, reinforcing, all-cotton cloth, plain woven, used in printing fabrics to support the fabric which is being printed.

=Backed Cloth.=--To add weight to certain single texture fabrics, extra threads running either in the direction of the warp, i.e., lengthways of the piece, or weftways across the piece, are stitched on to the back of the fabric. Fabrics having such extra threads stitched on to them are called Backed Cloths.

=Baffetas.=--Plain-woven cloth, bleached or dyed blue.

=Baize.=--A coarse, harsh, loosely woven woollen fabric of plain weave, having a long nap on both sides like flannel. Baize is generally dyed in bright colours and is known under the name Bayetas. Average width 66 to 67 inches, length 30 to 45 yards per piece.

=Balbriggan.=--Named after the town of Balbriggan, Ireland. First applied, in 1845, to full-fashioned hosiery made from unbleached cotton. About 1860 the term was applied to knit underwear of the same material. It was originally used only on high-class goods, but now covers everything in light-weight flat underwear made of yarn stained to the shade of Egyptian cotton.

=Bale of Cotton.=--The standard bale of cotton, according to the usage of the trade in England and America and generally accepted elsewhere, weighs 500 pounds. The following is the average weight and density of cotton bales:--

DENSITY WEIGHT. PER CUBIC FOOT. ---- ---- Egyptian about 700 lb. 34 lb. American " 500 " 24 " East Indian " 400 " 30 " Brazilian " 250 " 20 "

=Baline.=--A coarse canvas, mostly made of better grades of jute, flax, and hemp, used for upholstery purposes, interlinings, tailoring purposes, etc.

=Balzarine Brocades, Dyed.=--The cotton variety of this class of fabric would be an all-cotton fabric having a gauze weave and net-like appearance which had been embellished by the addition of certain figures or designs woven into the fabric either by means of combination of the warp and weft threads or by means of an additional thread or threads. But Lappet or Swivel figured Balzarines would not be considered Brocades in the true sense, as such style of figuring is not brocaded. Dyed Balzarine Brocades are piece-dyed after leaving the loom.

=Balzarines.=--Very few books of reference make mention of this kind of fabric. Of "uncertain origin," this name is said to have been given to "a light-weight mixed fabric of cotton and wool for women's dresses commonly used for summer gowns before the introduction of barége (or barrège)." Barége was, for the name seems to have fallen into disuse, "an open fabric resembling gauze, but more open in texture and stouter in thread. It was made of various materials but is best known as made of silk warp and worsted weft. It was first employed as ornament for the head, especially for sacred ceremonies, as baptism and marriage." It would appear, therefore, from the above that Balzarines--of the cotton variety--would be a gauze weave or net-like fabric woven from cotton warp and cotton weft. They may have been either bleached, dyed, printed, or brocaded. The exact difference between Balzarines and other gauze fabrics does not appear in any modern works dealing with textiles. The fabric probably approximates 30 inches in width and from 28 to 30 yards in length per piece. Unless specially designated as such, Balzarines are free from brocaded ornamentation; but from the fact that they are found associated with Lenos, they may, like these, have some plain weave combined with the main gauze structure--probably running in stripes lengthways of the piece.

=Bandanna= is a term applied to materials that have been dyed in a somewhat unusual manner, the cloth being tied in knots prior to being dipped into the dye-stuff. A peculiar clouded effect is produced, as the dye-stuff does not reach the knotted parts equally with the rest of the surface. This term is met with most frequently in connexion with a large handkerchief, of which great quantities were imported into India for sale to the natives.

=Barré.=--A striped or barred design, woven or printed, running from selvedge to selvedge.

=Basket Cloth.=--A plain-woven all-cotton fabric woven with two or more warp threads grouped together without twisting and woven as a unit of matt weave.

=Batiste.=--A fabric of French origin; the term has come to mean commercially a light, sheer cloth, made of fine quality of yarns and woven with a plain weave. A light fabric, with a Swiss finish, in distinction from a Nainsook, and usually wider and heavier than the latter fabric. In 32-inch widths and up a line of Batistes runs 14 to 16 square yards to the pound. There are bleached and unbleached cotton Batistes, also linen and coloured Batistes. The cotton are largely ecru, and the linen are most commonly in the grey. There is a gradual variation in qualities ranging from a comparatively coarse to a very fine Batiste. There are also wool Batistes.

=Bayadère.=--Applied to fabrics in which the stripe, whether woven or printed, runs crosswise, that is, from selvedge to selvedge.

=Bayetas.=--The Spanish for Baize, which is a coarse, harsh, loosely woven woollen fabric having a long nap on both sides like flannel. Bayetas are generally dyed in bright colours and have an average width of 66 to 67 inches and a length of 30 to 45 yards per piece.

=Beavers.=--A heavy cloth manufactured of fine wool with a finish on face made to imitate the appearance of the beaver's fur. When the surface is made with a long and dense nap this fabric becomes known as Fur Beaver.

=Beaverteen.=--A heavy, twill-weave, all-cotton fabric of the fustian or uncut pile variety, usually dyed in shades of grey or tan and generally used for garments having to withstand rough wear.

=Bedford Cords.=--Fabrics having cords or ribs running in the direction of the length of the cloth, produced by interweaving the weft, in plain or twill order, with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Bedford Cords may be woven as either an all-cotton, all-wool, or wool and cotton fabric. The ribs of Bedford Cords are but slightly separated from each other. Cotton Bedford Cords closely resemble a wide-welt Piqué. _See_ Welt.

=Beige.=--A dress fabric, generally twilled weave, made of yarns spun from wool which has been dyed in the stock prior to being spun, mostly met with in greys, browns, and mottled or mixed effects. In America the term is used to designate a dress fabric of fine texture woven from yarns in which two threads of different colours are twisted together or wherein printed yarns are employed.

=Bengal Stripes.=--An all-cotton plain-woven fabric of the striped Gingham variety. Warp yarns partially white, balance dyed indigo blue.

=Bengaline.=--A silk fabric having thick threads or cords at intervals, from selvedge to selvedge. Frequently the cord is of wool, covered with silk in the process of weaving, or cotton and silk are combined together to produce this kind of material. When made of all cotton and known as a cotton Bengaline, it is generally mercerised. The warp yarn is often of two-ply. Bengaline has much the appearance of Poplin.

Silk or part-silk Bengalines are often treated to an embossing process, which method presses a figure upon the fabric very similar in appearance to a Jacquard woven effect. A common name for Reps, also similar to Poplin, but generally of a heavier corded appearance with the cord running transversely across the face of the fabric.

=Binding Cloth.=--A muslin dyed and stamped or embossed, used to cover books by bookbinders.

=Bleached.=--This term is used to designate either raw cotton, cotton yarn, or more often cotton fabrics which have been rendered white. The most generally used agent for bleaching is chloride of lime. The process of bleaching varies according to whether the fibres being bleached are in the loose, the yarn, or the woven state. Prior to being bleached fabrics are said to be in the "grey"; after bleaching they are said to be "white."

=Bleached Domestics.=--A term commonly used referring to the cheaper grades of bleached cotton cloths, either plain or twilled.