Part 2

=Bombazine.=--Bombazine is the name given to a twilled fabric of which the warp is of silk and the filling is worsted.

=Book-fold Muslin.=--A trade designation meaning muslin put up in 24-yard lengths, folded in such a way as to open book-wise from the centre, the various folds resembling the leaves of a book.

=Botany.=--A term applied to worsted yarns made from Botany wool. It is considered the finest of all worsted yarns and is used for making fine fabrics of close texture. The name Botany is commonly used to designate a fine grade of Australian wool.

=Bouclé.=--Having knots, loops, or curls on the surface; usually employed for cloakings. Imitation Astrakhan is a type of the kind of fabric coming under the heading Bouclé.

=Bourette.=--A rough-surfaced effect produced by introducing lumpy, knotted yarns at intervals in the weaving.

=Broadcloth.=--Broadcloth is a soft, closely woven material made with an all-wool warp and filling having a satin finish. The beauty of Broadcloth depends on its even, nappy, lustrous surface. The three main points that go towards fixing its value are the quality of the wool used, the uniformity of the nap, and the perfection of finish. It is most often twill woven, double plain, but it is also met with in a plain weave.

=Brocade.=--The ordinary cotton Brocade is a figured fabric of single texture. More elaborate Brocades, used for dress and upholstery purposes, may have several wefts, in which case the cloth is one-sided, the warp forming the ground on the face, and the wefts appearing only where required to produce figure. Soft-spun wefts are often used in Brocades and similar kinds of cloths, the better to fill and throw up the figure used in their ornamentation. It is a term commonly applied to fabrics of different weaves or combinations of weaves in which the design appearing on the surface of the fabric is of a fancy figured or floral effect, usually of elaborate design; also used as an adjective to denote "woven figured."

=Brocatelle.=--The real Brocatelle is a rich upholstery fabric, which has a raised figure of silk warp and weft interwoven in satin order, on a ground formed by a linen weft and a special binder warp. The name is also applied to quilts having a coarse white weft and two colours of warp, which latter change places for figuring purposes.

=Broché.=--The French term for Brocade. Elaborate figures woven on the surface of the fabric.

=Brown Sheeting.=--This term is the equivalent of "plain grey cloths" and covers all weights of cotton goods in the grey or unfinished condition.

=Brown Shirting.=--The term is restricted usually to mean such grey cotton cloths as have a width of 40 inches or less from selvedge to selvedge.

=Bugis.=--This name is given to a fine make of cotton sarong having only one side decorated with a border design. It is used by sewing two pieces together plain edge to plain edge, thus converting it into a sarong with both edges ornamented.

="Bump" Yarns.=--Cotton yarns of coarse numbers below 3's, used for weft purposes in counterpanes and other coarse fabrics, are termed "Bump" Yarns. Sometimes the term Candlewick is used for very coarse counts. The counts in the case of "Bump" Yarns are denoted by the number of yards weighing 1 ounce.

This kind of weft is extensively used for coarse and heavy goods, such as bagging, Alhambra quilts, etc.

_Example._--A yarn weighing 60 yards to the ounce would be termed 60's "Bump."

=Bunting.=--A plain, loose, even-thread weave of Mohair wool or worsted, used mostly for making flags. Bunting, which is a material having to be dyed, is made of wool and not cotton or other vegetable fibre for the reason that wool has a greater affinity for dye-stuffs than cotton and retains them better. There is, however, a cotton fabric woven from low-count yarns, generally known as either Butter Muslin or Cheese Cloth, which is sometimes called Bunting.

=Burlaps.=--A plain-woven, coarse, and heavy fabric made from jute, flax, or hemp, used for wrappings, upholstery, etc.

=Butcher's Linen.=--A coarse, heavy, plain-weave linen.

=Cabled Yarns.=--Cabled Yarns are produced by folding together "two-fold" threads. Under the heading "Folded Yarn" it will be seen that when two single threads of 60's count yarn are twisted together they produce a two-fold 60's, written thus: 2/60. When three such two-fold yarns are twisted together they produce a six-fold 60's thread. Sewing cottons, known in the trade as Spool Cotton, are good examples of Cabled Yarns.

=Cabot.=--A Levant term for a rather coarse make of plain grey cloth, woven from coarse yarns (about 20's counts); 48 warp threads and the same number of picks to the inch.

Lancashire-made Cabots are usually heavily sized. Considerable quantities of this cloth are made in South Carolina mills in 36-inch width and shipped to China under the name of American Sheetings.

=Calico.=--This name is used to designate most plain-woven cotton fabrics which have simple designs printed on their face in either one or more colours. Calicoes are usually in two colours, that is, one colour for the ground and the other for the figure or design. The ground colour is generally effected by piece-dyeing the fabric in some solid colour. After the cloth is dyed the design is printed on the cloth. Being cheap fabrics, Calicoes are generally given a "cheap common dye"--by this is meant that the colours are not fast and will run or fade when washed. The printing of Calicoes is done by the aid of a machine whose main feature is a revolving cylinder on which the design has been stamped or cut out. Such machines are capable of printing several colours in one design. Calico is woven with a plain one-over and one-under weave. As a textile term it is applied to cheaper grades of plain cotton cloth, and the name is rightly applied when such cloths are printed. In the Manchester district and in Great Britain generally the term Calico is used only to designate a plain grey or white shirting or sheeting free from any ornamentation.

=Camel's Hair.=--A loosely woven fabric of long-fibre wool. The term in its original sense is used to describe the soft downy fibre from the haunches and under parts of the camel.

=Camlets (Woollen).=--An all-wool plain-woven fabric free from any ornamentation of weave produced either by combination of weave or extra warp or weft threads. It is invariably woven with the plain one-over and one-under weave from worsted yarns, which make the fabric somewhat lustrous. In width averaging 30 to 31 inches and in length 60 to 61 yards. Camlets are only divisible into two kinds, Dutch and English. The former variety appears to be no longer made, and one manufacturer states that practically 99 per cent. of the Camlets imported into China are of the English variety. Not unlike an Alpaca in feel, though somewhat less lustrous, Camlets may be compared to a very fine wool Bunting.

=Camlets, Dutch (Woollen).=--This heading apparently covers a type of material which has almost disappeared from the market. Originally a rough cloth made from camel's hair, it was known as either Camlet or Camelot. A somewhat ancient description is "a rough fabric composed of wool and cotton, or hair and silk with a wavy or variegated surface." A firm of manufacturers in Bradford, written to for information under this heading, writes as follows: "This is a very ancient heading, and Camlets now are only made in this country, and although there are about three qualities shipped to China, practically speaking, 99 per cent. are in the quality of the sample shown." The sample in question shows the fabric to be a plain, all-wool, fairly loosely plain-woven fabric dyed a bright vermilion. Both warp and weft are of worsted yarn and hence it is a somewhat lustrous fabric; in width it averages between 30 and 31 inches, in length from 60 to 61 yards, and its average value during the 10 years 1904-14 was 40_s._ 5_d._ per piece. Camlet somewhat resembles a fine Bunting and has a harsh handle; somewhat stiff, it has the feel of an Alpaca fabric.

=Camlets, English (Woollen).=--This fabric is described under Camlets, Dutch. A typical sample of English-made Woollen Camlets showed the fabric to be a plain, all-wool, fairly loosely plain-woven fabric dyed a bright vermilion. Both warp and weft are of worsted yarn, and hence it is a somewhat lustrous fabric, averaging 30 to 31 inches in width and 60 to 61 yards in length. Average value of the quality generally imported into China was for the 10 years 1904-14 40_s._ 5_d._ per piece. Somewhat harsh of handle, it resembles a fine Bunting with the stiff feel of an Alpaca.

The earliest mention of English Camlets is to be found in Camden's "Brittania," 1610, where, speaking of Coventry, it is said: "Its wealth, arising in the last age from the woollen and camblet manufacture, made it the only mart of this part." In the next century those of Brussels are said to exceed all other Camlets for beauty and quality, those of England being reputed second.

=Caniche.=--Name given to a curled wool fabric showing the effect of the coat of the _caniche_, or French poodle.

=Canton Flannel.=--This term is used to designate an all-cotton flannel, first made for and exported to Canton. Canton Flannel will be found more fully described under "Cotton Flannel." It is a narrow heavy fabric, twill woven, showing twill on one side and having a long, soft, raised nap on the other. Woven as a four-shaft twill for winter weights and as a three-shaft twill for the summer weight. Width from 27 to 30 inches. Canton Flannel is taken direct from the loom, measured, napped, and folded, and packed for shipment. The yarn used to make this class of cloth is spun from low-grade cotton of from three-fourths to 1 inch in length of staple, generally dyed in bright colours.

=Canvas.=--Canvas is a coarse plain-weave fabric woven from yarn which is hard twisted. It is often woven from folded yarn, and this may readily be seen in what is known as embroidery canvas. Canvas used for sails is generally a stout strong-built cloth woven with "double warp coarse flax yarns." A term applied to heavy, plain, unbleached, dyed or yarn-dyed fabric, of different grades or weights properly made of ply yarns, although the term more frequently applies to fabrics of such similar appearance made without or partially of ply yarn. Various sorts of Canvases are known in different trades, such as Embroidery Canvas, Duck, Dress Canvas, Mercerised Canvas, etc. Dress fabrics, the principal part of which are of such a construction, are still termed Canvas in the distributing trade when they contain stripes or fancy effects of other weaves.

=Carbonising.=--All-wool cloths and even raw wool very often contain a certain amount of vegetable matter, such as burrs, the chemical composition of which is similar to that of cotton, and as it is at times very desirable to extract this vegetable matter, the cloth or fibre is for this purpose subjected to a process known as carbonising. The material is passed through a bath containing sulphuric acid of a suitable strength and temperature. Upon drying, the acid concentrates upon the vegetable matter, converting it into hydrocellulose, which, being in the form of a powder, is easily removed, while the wool, not being acted upon by the acid to any considerable extent, remains intact. This system would be employed to test the percentage of cotton in any union fabric: by carefully weighing the sample prior to treatment and again after all the vegetable matter had been carbonised the proportion of cotton to wool can readily be ascertained.

=Casement cloth.=--A plain-woven fabric used for casement window curtains and usually white or cream-coloured. Casement Cloth is made from either mohair, alpaca, or cotton. The cotton variety is made from high-class yarns, well woven, and is mercerised before bleaching or dyeing.

=Cashmere.=--A cloth made from the hair of the Cashmere goat. The face of the fabric is twilled, the twills or diagonal lines being uneven and irregular owing to the unevenness of the yarn. Cashmere was originally made from hand-spun yarn. In the knitted goods trade the word Cashmere, when applied to hosiery or underwear, means goods made of fine worsted yarns spun from Saxony or other soft wools.

Cashmere has been described as being a lightly woven woollen fabric of twilled construction and soft finish, having the twill on the "right" side, _i.e._, on the face of the fabric. It is sometimes woven with a cotton warp and fine Botany wool weft. An all-cotton variety, woven in the same way as the true Cashmere, is also met with: it is known as Cotton Cashmere.

=Cashmere Double.=--A Cashmere cloth having as a distinctive feature a twill face and a Poplin-corded effect on the reverse.

=Cashmere Wool= is the fine, extremely soft, grey or white fur of the Cashmere goat, which is bred in Tibet. There are two kinds of fibre obtained: one, which is really the outer covering, consisting of long tufts of hair, beneath which is found the other, the true Cashmere Wool of commerce, a soft downy wool of brownish grey tint having a fine silky fibre.

=Castor.=--A heavy cloth, manufactured of fine wool with a finish on the face made to imitate the fur of the beaver. This cloth differs from Beaver Cloth only in its weight, Castor cloth being lighter than Beaver.

=Cellular Cloth.=--A plain Leno fabric having an open cellular structure, which is specially suited for shirtings and underwear. Cellular Cloth is also found with stripes of different weave, though still a form of Leno weave to the rest of the fabric.

=Ceylon or Ceylon Flannel.=--A coloured striped cloth woven with a cotton and wool mixture weft. The warp threads which form the stripes are dyed in the yarn prior to weaving.

=Challis.=--The name is given to a light-weight plain or figured material made either of cotton or wool or a mixture of both. An all-wool Challis has, when plain woven, the appearance of a Muslin Delaine. Usually printed.

=Chambray.=--Chambray is a staple fabric of many years standing, being next in line of the cotton goods after the better grades of Gingham. It is a light-weight single cloth fabric, always woven with a plain weave and a white selvedge. It is woven from warp and weft which may be either all cotton, cotton and silk, or all silk: it has an average width of 27 or 30 inches and weighs 2 to 3½ ounces per finished yard. When made as an all-cotton fabric it is finished in the same way as a Gingham.

=Charmeuse.=--A light-weight satin having a high natural lustre.

=Checks.=--Fabrics having rectangular patterns formed by crossing the threads of a striped warp with weft threads of the same order. "Mock" Checks are produced by combining weave effects.

When Checks are woven without a highly variegated colouring they are known as Ginghams.

=Cheese Cloth.=--A very open and lightly constructed thin cotton fabric of light weight and low-count yarns, woven with a plain weave, weighing from 9 to 12 yards to the pound. Cheese Cloth is often used for Bunting, by which name it is sometimes known. The Cheese Cloth used for wrapping round cheese and butter after they have been pressed is a bleached cloth.

=Cheviot.=--Most stout woollen fabrics which have a rough or shaggy face are described as Cheviots, which has become a term denoting more a class of goods than a particular fabric. It has a slightly felted, short, even nap on the face, and is often made of "pulled wool," which is the wool taken from the pelts of dead sheep.

Mungo, shoddy, and a fair percentage of cotton enter into the composition of the yarn from which it is made. Irrespective of the quality of the yarn used, however, Cheviots are finished either with a "rough" or a close finish. The weave may either be plain or twill.

=Chiffon.=--A sheer silk tissue of plain weave and soft finish. The word is often used to indicate light weight and soft finish, as Chiffon Velvet.

=Chinchilla.=--A fabric made of fine wool, having a surface composed of small tufts closely united. The name is Spanish for a fur-bearing animal of the mink species, and the fabric is an imitation of the fur.

=Chiné.=--Warp-printed: a fabric wherein the design, being printed on the warps, appears somewhat faintly and in indefinite outline. The weft is not printed, but is generally in the white. Some varieties, occasionally met with, have a coloured weft. This class of fabric is also known as a Shadow Cretonne, when the designs are of the variety generally used in Cretonne fabrics.

=Chintz.=--When this name is applied to a fabric other than a printed Chintz it is used to designate a woven Chintz, which is a fabric on the warp threads of which, before being woven into cloth, various coloured designs have been printed. Many silk ribbons are Chintz woven. Where the colours seem to have run in the pattern the name Chene is sometimes used. Warp-printed Chintz is also known as Shadow Cretonne, from the softness of the design due to the white weft blurring the sharpness of the design printed on the warp.

=Clip Spots.=--Figured Muslins ornamented by small detached figures of extra warp or weft, the floating material between the spots being afterwards clipped or sheared off.

=Coated Cotton Cloths.=--This name is given to a cloth having one or both surfaces coated with paint, varnish, pigments, or other substances. Examples of coated cloths are Tracing Cloth, Bookbinder's Cloth, Imitation Vellum, Oilcloths, and Oilskins.

=Collarette.=--A wide knitted neckband used on men's undershirts in lieu of binding.

=Coloured.=--This term, when applied to textile fabrics, is used to show that the fabric which is designated as "coloured" has been dyed in the yarn and not dyed subsequently to having been woven, _i.e._, it has been woven from coloured yarns.

=Coloured Crimp Cloth.=--Like all other fabrics that are designated as "coloured," Coloured Crimp Cloth is dyed in the yarn and not piece-dyed. Coloured Crimp Cloth is essentially a Crimp Cloth which has been woven from previously dyed yarn; apart from this difference it answers the description given under Crimp Cloth, Plain or Crimps.

=Coloured Lists.=--All serges, etc., that are dyed in the wool or yarn, as against those dyed in the piece, have coloured lists or edging. The word "list" is another name for selvedge.

=Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns.=--The most important coloured woollen and worsted yarns are: (_a._) Mixtures, (_b._) Mélanges, (_c._) Marls, and (_d._) Twists.

(_a._) _Mixtures._--A mixture yarn is one composed of fibres of two or more colours which have been thoroughly blended. In woollens the wool is dyed after scouring and the mixing accomplished during the carding process.

(_b._) _Mélange._--This is a fine mixture yarn produced from a top-printed sliver. The result is obtained by printing at regular intervals the required colours on the top of the sliver. The mixing of the fibres and colours is brought about during the drawing and spinning processes. As a rule only long fibres such as Mohair are subjected to this method of treatment. In these yarns, on many fibres two or more colours may be clearly seen under the microscope.

(_c._) _Marls._--A term sometimes applied to three-fold twist yarns, but more correctly applied to a yarn which is between a twist and the mixture yarn. It is produced by combing two or more slivers of different colour in the later drawing operations, and in consequence the colours are not so thoroughly blended as in the case of mixture yarns.

(_d._) _Twists._--This class of yarn is produced by simply twisting or folding together two or more yarns of different colours.

=Corduroy.=--Corduroy, like many other low-grade cotton fabrics woven with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, Moleskins, is really a Fustian. The pile surface of Corduroys does not cover the surface of the fabric uniformly, as in the case of Velveteens, for instance, but runs in straight lines or ribs, which may be of different sizes and have round or flat tops. When a Corduroy has a twill back it is known as a "Genoa" backed Corduroy; when, as in the lighter makes, the back shows a plain weave it is known as "Tabby" backed.

Corduroy is a cotton fabric with the ribs running lengthways of the piece. The pile is a weft pile. Corduroys are made in many varieties--known as Fine Reed, Eight Shafts, Thicksets, Constitution, Cables, etc. Constitution and Cables have broad floats or races which are some distance apart. The term Corduroy, when applied to hosiery, is used to designate stockings which are commonly known as two-and-two rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings.

=Côtelé.=--A ribbed weave in flat, rather wide effect.

=Cotton.=--Cotton is the most used of all vegetable fibres for the manufacture of textiles. Length and fineness of individual fibres go towards making quality; shortness and coarseness of fibre make for low qualities.

The chief classes of cotton are known as Sea Island, Egyptian, American, Brazilian, Peruvian, East Indian, the first mentioned being the highest and the last the lowest quality. Qualities are designated in each class as follows:--

1. Fair. 2. Middling Fair. 3. Good Middling. 4. Middling. 5. Low Middling. 6. Good Ordinary. 7. Ordinary.

East Indian type of cotton fibres measure on an average but half an inch, as compared with 2 inches in Sea Island type.

=Cotton Duck.=--Duck being a fabric which is sometimes woven in linen, to refer to it simply as Duck might be misleading; hence, although when used by itself the term Duck is generally recognised to mean a cotton fabric, to differentiate between the two the word Cotton or Linen is used. This fabric is described under "Duck."

=Cotton Flannel.=--As the name implies, Cotton Flannel is a material woven in cotton in imitation of the real all-wool flannel. It is either a plain or a twill woven fabric which has had the weft on one or both sides of the fabric "raised" or "napped." This is done by passing the fabric, whilst it is tightly stretched, over a revolving cylinder, the surface of which is covered with small steel hooks or teasels; these, scratching as they do the surface of the fabric, tear up very slightly the short fibres and cover the fabric with a "nap," which is afterwards cut down uniformly. Cotton Flannel was first made for the Canton market. Cotton Flannels may be either "single raised" or "double raised"; in the first only one side of the fabric is raised, in the second both sides are raised. Whilst Cotton Flannel clearly shows that the fabric is a cotton one, the term Flannelette does not necessarily mean that it is a purely cotton fabric identical with Cotton Flannel. Flannelette may contain wool, even if only in very small percentage, but by trade usage the name is used to designate only an all-cotton fabric.

=Cotton Plush.=--The term Plush being a generic term applied to cut-pile fabrics having the pile deeper than ordinary Velvet, Velveteen, etc., it follows that Cotton Plush is essentially a cotton-pile fabric with a somewhat deeper pile than Velveteen. Cotton Plushes may be woven with either plain or twill back, the plain-backed variety being known as a "Genoa" Plush and the twill-backed variety as a "Tabby" Plush.

=Cotton Yarn Measures.=--

54 inches = 1 thread (or circumference of wrap reel). 4,320 " = 80 threads = 1 lea. 30,240 " = 560 " = 7 lea = 1 hank. 1 hank = 840 yards. 1 bundle is usually 10 lb. in weight.

The French system of numbering Cotton Yarns is as follows:--

1,000 metres weighing 500 grammes = No. 1's. 1,000 " " 250 " = No. 2's. 1,000 " " 50 " = No. 10's. 1,000 " " 25 " = No. 20's.

The count is therefore arrived at by dividing the number of metres reeled by twice the number of grammes they weigh.