Chapter 10

The middle of the bottom of the bib should be determined, and pinned to the middle of the upper edge of the belt, to which the skirt has already been attached. The belt should be fastened to the wrong side of the bib. The gathering string of the bib should be drawn up, leaving 2 inches of fulness on each side of the middle. The bib should be pinned, basted, and sewn to the belt. The remaining long edges of the belt should be turned in one quarter of an inch, and the ends one inch. The edges of the other belt piece should be turned in in the same way, and should be pinned over the belt to which the skirt and the bib have been attached (with all the edges turned in), and basted carefully, to keep the edges even. The skirt and the bib should be hemmed to this upper belt, and all the remaining edges should be overhanded.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

The bib and the straps of the apron should be completed before the pupils report for this lesson.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should guide the pupils carefully in the various steps necessary in fastening the bib to the belt and in completing the belt. If the hemming and overhanding is not completed during the class hour, they may be assigned as home work.

LESSON XVII: METHODS OF FASTENING GARMENTS

_Sewing buttons on the aprons, corset-cover, or other garment._

SUBJECT-MATTER

This lesson should teach neatness in dress, through a consideration of the best methods of fastening garments. The position of the button is measured by drawing the right end of the band one inch over the left end. The place for the button should be marked with a pin on the left end of the band. A double thread is fastened on the right side of the band, drawn through one hole of the button, and back through the other, and then taken through the band close to the first stitch. A pin should be inserted on top of the button under the first stitch, left there until the button is firmly fastened in place, and then removed. Before the thread is fastened, it should be wrapped two or three times around the threads holding the button, between the button and the cloth, then fastened neatly on the wrong side with a few small stitches one on top of another.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

Each pupil should come to the class with her apron as nearly completed as possible, and with three buttons to sew on it, for fastening the belt and straps.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should discuss the best methods of fastening garments and should demonstrate the method of sewing on buttons. The pupils should sew one button on the left end of the apron band in the middle of the width about 1 inch from the end, and another button 4 inches from each end of the band, to hold the shoulder straps.

LESSON XVIII: METHODS OF FASTENING GARMENTS--Continued

_Button-holes on practice piece and on apron._

SUBJECT-MATTER

Directions for making the button-hole.--Measure carefully the position for the button-hole, lengthwise of the band, so that the end will come one quarter of an inch from the edge of the garment. Mark the length of the button-hole on the material by putting in two lines of running-stitches at the ends. To cut the button-hole, insert the point of the scissors at the point marked by the running-stitches nearest the edge of the garment, and cut carefully along the thread of the material to the row of stitches marking the length at the other end.

To make the button-hole, use a thread of sufficient length to do both the overcasting and the button-holing. Beginning at the lower right corner, overcast the raw edges with stitches one sixteenth of an inch deep. Do not overcast around the ends of the hole. As soon as the overcasting is done, proceed with the button-holing without breaking the thread. Hold the button-hole horizontally over the first finger of the left hand and work from right to left. Insert the point of the needle through the button-hole (at the back end), bringing the point through, toward you, four or five threads below the edge of the button-hole. Bring the doubled thread from the eye of the needle from right to left under and around the point of the needle, draw the needle through, and pull the thread firmly, so that the purl is on the edge. At the end of the button-hole, near the end of the band, make a fan, by placing from five to seven stitches. The other end of the button-hole should be finished with a bar made by taking three stitches across the end of the button-hole, then button-hole over the bar, taking in the cloth underneath and pulling the purl toward the slit. The thread should be fastened carefully on the under side of the button-hole.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

For this lesson it is desirable to have small pieces of cotton on hand, to use as practice pieces for the button-holes.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should demonstrate the making of a button-hole, illustrating each step of the process on a large piece of canvas. The pupils should sew two small strips of cotton together and cut a button-hole one quarter of an inch from the edge, and lengthwise of the material, to work for practice. When the button-hole has been sufficiently perfected on the practice piece, the pupils should make three in the apron--one in the right end of the band and one in the end of each shoulder strap.

LESSON XIX: A PADDED HOLDER FOR HANDLING HOT DISHES--BINDING

SUBJECT-MATTER

A holder 6 inches square will be satisfactory for handling hot dishes. It can be made of quilted padding bound with tape, or of two thicknesses of outing flannel covered with percale or denim and bound with tape or braid. If made of the outing flannel and covered, it should be quilted, by stitching from the middle of one side to the middle of the opposite side in both directions, in order to hold the outing flannel and the outside covering together. The tape that is to be used for the binding should be folded through the middle lengthwise; then, a beginning being made at one corner of the padding, the edge should be basted, half on one side and half on the other. Right-angled corners should be formed. When basted all around, the tape should be sewn on each side with a hemming-stitch.

If the holder is to be suspended from the apron band, a tape of from 27 inches to 36 inches in length should be attached to one corner. The raw edge at one end of the tape should be turned in. The end should be so placed that it overlaps the corner of the holder about half an inch and it should be basted to the holder. The tape should then be secured firmly to the holder, hemmed down on one edge, across the bottom, and up the other edge. The other end of the tape should be finished with a 2-inch loop. The raw edge should be folded over, the tape turned 2 inches down for the loop, and basted in place. This should be hemmed across the end. One quarter of an inch up from the end, the double thickness of tape should be back-stitched together, and the edges of the tape should be overhanded from there to the hemmed end.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

Each pupil should provide sufficient denim, percale, huckaback, or other washable material to cover the two sides of a holder 7 inches square, and enough outing or canton flannel for a double lining. About 1-1/2 yards of straight tape one-half inch wide will be needed for the binding and for suspending the holder from the apron.

METHOD OF WORK

The pupils should first carefully measure and turn the material for the covering of the holder and then prepare the lining, basting it all together. They should then put in the running-stitch and finish with the binding. If it is not possible to complete the holder in one period, a second lesson period should be provided, or arrangements may be made to have supervised work done outside of the lesson hours.

LESSON XX: A CAP TO WEAR WITH THE COOKING APRON

SUBJECT-MATTER

The simplest cap to make will be the circular one. A pattern should be made by drawing with a pencil and string on a piece of wrapping-paper a circle 21 inches in diameter. The material for the cap should be cut carefully around the circle and finished with a narrow hem. A tape to hold the draw-string should be placed 1-1/4 inches inside the edge of the hem. A small piece of cardboard cut about one-half inch wide should be used for measuring the position of the tape. Bias strips three quarters of an inch wide should be prepared for the tape, or a commercial tape three eighths of an inch wide may be purchased. The outer edge of the tape should be basted first and the edges joined; then the inner edges should be basted, the edge being kept smooth. Both edges should be neatly sewn with the hemming-stitch by hand or on the machine. An elastic should be inserted in the band, carefully fitted to the head, and the ends fastened neatly.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

This lesson will give a good opportunity to make a cap that will answer for a dust cap or serve as a part of the cooking uniform. If such a cap does not seem desirable and the former lesson has not been completed, the cap may be omitted and the work on the holder continued.

METHOD OF WORK

The pupils should first make the pattern for the cap and then cut out their material. The hem should be basted and stitched with the hemming-stitch. The bias strip should be basted on and sewn with a running-stitch. It will probably not be possible for the pupils to complete the cap in one class period; but, if the material has been cut out and the work started, they may be able to complete it at some other time. The stitches are not new, and the work will serve as an excellent test of the skill they have acquired in the course.

HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE EQUIPMENT

The introduction of Household Science into rural schools has been hindered by the prevalent impression that the subject requires equipment similar to that in the Household Science centres of towns and cities, where provision is made for the instruction of twenty-four pupils at one time and for from ten to fifteen different classes each week. Owing to the expense and the lack of accommodation, it is not possible to install such equipment in rural schools. For this and other reasons it has been concluded that the subject is beyond the possibilities of the rural school. That this is not the case is shown by the fact that many rural schools in the United States, and some in Saskatchewan, as well as a number in our own Province, are teaching the subject successfully, with equipment specially designed to meet existing conditions.

The accommodations and equipment required may be classified as follows:

1. Working tables 2. Cupboards and cabinets for storing the utensils 3. Stoves 4. Cooking and serving utensils

1. The provision for working tables is conditioned by the space available, and every effort must be made to economize this space. The equipment may be placed in the basement or in a small ante-room. In one school in the Province very successful work is being done in a large corridor. When a new school-house is being erected, provision should be made by building a small work-room off the class-room. The possibilities of a small, portable building, in close proximity to the school, should not be overlooked.

Where the school is provided with a large table, this may be made of service. When used as a working table it should be covered with a sheet of white oil-cloth. When used as a dining-table a white table-cloth may be substituted for the oil-cloth. If the school does not possess a table, two or three boards may be placed on trestles, if the space at the front or the back of the room permits, and these may be stored away when not required. A table with folding legs, such as is shown in Figures 22 and 23, may also be used. The top of the cabinet containing the utensils or an ordinary kitchen table closed in as a cupboard underneath, may be made to serve. Long boards, about eighteen inches wide, placed across the tops of six or eight desks, provide good accommodation. These should be blocked up level and should be provided with cleats at each end, in order to prevent movement. When not in use they may stand flat against the wall and occupy very little space. Separate boards, resting on a desk at each end, may also be placed across the aisles. Each of these will provide working space for one pupil. Tables which drop down flat when not in use may be fixed to the walls of the school-room. As schools vary in many respects, it is not possible to outline a plan which will suit all; but that plan should be chosen which will best meet the requirements of the particular school.

2. The cupboards and cabinets to contain the utensils may take various forms. A kitchen cabinet costing from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars may be obtained from a furniture store, or one may be made by a local carpenter. A large packing-case painted brown outside and white inside (for cleanliness) is satisfactorily used in some schools. If covered with oil-cloth, the top of this may be used as an additional table. A few shelves placed across a corner of the room and covered with a door or curtain may be used, or it may be possible to devote one shelf of the school cupboard to the storing of the utensils. It is desirable to have a combination cupboard and table, which will contain most of the equipment, including the stove. Figure 24 is a working drawing of such a cabinet, which may be made by a local carpenter or by the older boys of the school.

The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:

Obtain two boxes and cut or re-make them so that each is 30 inches high when standing on end, 12-1/4 inches across the front inside, and 18 inches from front to back. These will form the two end Sections, A and B. Inside the sides of these boxes nail 1 inch × 7/8 inch strips, to form the slides for the drawer. The slides come within 7/8 of an inch of the front edge. Rails may be nailed across the front. Guide pieces should be nailed to the slides, in order to keep the drawers straight. Divide Section A for one drawer and cupboard. The drawers may be made out of raisin boxes cut down to the required size. To the front of each drawer, nail a piece of beaver board or pine a little larger than the drawer front. Use any handles that may be conveniently obtained. Cut two pieces 4' 9-1/2" × 1-1/2" × 7/8". Space the Sections as shown, and nail these pieces firmly to the fronts of the larger boxes, _A_ and _B_, top and bottom. Four end pieces 18" × 1-1/2" will be required. Fill in Section _C_, in this case, 2' 7-1/2", with the pieces from the box lids or with ordinary flooring. Make a door for the cupboard from similar material. The top is best made from good, clear, white pine. Screw battens across, and screw the whole firmly to the box top from the inside. If more table space is required, make a similar bench top, which can rest on top of the cabinet when not in use. When required, it may be placed over the desks. Steel or glass shoes or wooden skids or battens should be fixed under the cabinet, so that it can be pulled away from the stove and replaced easily. The dimensions given are for a two-flame-burner oil-stove which is 30 inches high, 31 inches across the front, and 16 inches from front to back. The middle Section, _C_, and the total height of the cabinet may be enlarged or reduced to fit other sizes of stoves.

The material required for, and the approximate cost of, such a cabinet, labour not included, are as follows:

2 boxes @ 25 $0.50 5 raisin boxes @ 5 .25 5 handles at 45c per doz. .20 1 cupboard latch .15 or 1 turn button .02 About 9 sq. ft. flooring .25 About 8 sq. ft. pine for top .50 Pieces for battens, etc. .25 Steel shoes .10

Figure 27 shows another type of equipment and the space it occupies in the class-room when not in use. The cupboard and the back of the cabinet contain the equipment necessary for teaching twelve pupils at one time and also for serving one hot dish at the noon lunch to twenty-four pupils. One drawer contains linen, etc., and the other, knives, forks, and spoons. The dimensions of the cupboard and the cabinet are shown in Figures 28 and 29, and the construction of each is such that it can be made easily by any carpenter.

Figure 30 shows the cupboard and drawers open and the method of storing the equipment. The shelves may be covered with white oil-cloth or brown paper, in order to obviate the necessity for frequent scrubbing. The cupboard may be fixed to the wall with mirror plates or small iron brackets, or it may be screwed through the back.

Figure 31 shows the back of the cabinet, with the three-flame-burner stove-oven, the one-flame-burner stove, and other utensils in place. The folding table, previously described, rests on the top of the cabinet. Figure 32 shows the back of the cabinet with the stove and oven removed. The method of storing utensils and the construction of the cabinet are clearly shown.

Figure 33 shows the three-flame-burner oil-stove with the shelf underneath containing three kettles and the one-flame-burner oil-stove.

Another type of equipment is shown in Figure 34. Each end of the top of this cabinet drops down when the cupboard doors are closed, space being thus economized. The top of the table may be covered with oil-cloth or zinc carefully tacked down on the edges.

The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Lumber:

7 pieces 3/4" × 4" × 14' yellow pine ceiling 6 pieces 1" × 4" × 12' yellow pine flooring 1 piece 1" × 12" × 12' } 1 piece 1" × 8" × 12' } No. 1 common white pine 1 piece 1/2" × 6" × 14' } 4 white pine laths

Hardware:

7 pairs 1-1/2" × 3" butt hinges 3 cupboard catches 1 piece zinc (27" × 39") 2 pieces zinc (21" × 27") 1 drawer pull 1 lb. 8d finishing nails 1 lb. 6d finishing nails 1/4 lb. box 1" brads 1/4 lb. box 1-1/4" brads 1 box tacks 2 ft. stopper chain

STOCK BILL

+--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |Lumber |Cut into |Finished Dimensions |Use | | | the | | | | |following| | | | | pieces: | | | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ | 1" × 8" × 12' | 2 |13-16" × 2" × 32-1/2" |Top side rails | | | 2 |13-16" × 2" × 18-1/2" |Top end rail | | | 4 |13-16" × 2" × 29-3/4" |Frame posts | | | 1 |13-16" × 2" × 30-7/8" |Bottom side | | | | |rail | | | 2 |13-16" × 2" × 18-1/2" |Bottom end | | | | |rails | | | 1 |13-16" × 5" × 14-3/8" |Drop door | +------------- -----+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Flooring | |12' flooring | 7 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 32-1/2"|(bottom) | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |5 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Ceiling (ends | |14' yellow pine | | |and side) | |ceiling | 24 |1/4" × 3-1/4" × 31-1/4"| | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |1" × 12" × 12' | 3 |13-16" × 10-1/4" × | | | | | 32-1/2" |Shelf | | | 1 |13-16" × 8" × 32-1/2" |Shelf | | | 3 |13-16" × 1-3/4" × | | | | | 31-1/4 |Casing | | | 2 |13-16" × 1-3/4" × | | | | | 14-3/8" |Casing | | | 1 |13-16" × 5" × 14-3/8" |Drawer front | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Top | |12' flooring | 8 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 36" | | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Doors | |14' yellow pine | | | | |ceiling | 10 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 22-7/8"| | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Swing tops | |12' flooring | 12 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 24" | | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |1/2" × 6" × 12' | 2 |7-16" × 5" × 19-5/8" |Drawer slides | | | 1 |7-16" × 5" × 13-1/2" |Drawer back | | | 4 |7-16" × 4-3/4" × | | | | | 13-1/2" |Drawer bottom | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |1/2" × 6" × 12' | 1 |7-16" × 4-1/2" × | | | | | 13-1/2" |Partitions | | | 3 |7-16" × 4-1/2" × 10" |Partitions | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+

TOOLS

Rule Lead-pencil Saw Hammer Steel square Plane 1/2" Chisel and Screw-driver

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING

I Cutting and Squaring Stock--

Cut the stock only as needed, in the following order, and square up according to the directions previously given.

1. Frame; rip the 1" × 8" × 12' piece for the frame material 2. Bottom 3. Ends and sides 4. Shelves 5. Top 6. Casing 7. Doors 8. Swing tops 9. Miscellaneous pieces

II Assembling--

Frame:

1. Check up the dimensions of the pieces squared up for the frame.

2. Lay out and cut the lap joints in the top side rails and frame posts, as shown in the drawing.

3. Nail the frame together.

4. Test the corners of the frame with a steel try-square and brace it by nailing, temporarily, several strips diagonally across the corners.

Bottom:

1. Cut seven pieces of flooring 32-1/2" long for the bottom and plane off the groove of one piece.