Nine Thousand Miles on a Pullman Train An Account of a Tour of Railroad Conductors from Philadelphia to the Pacific Coast and Return

Part 3

Chapter 34,246 wordsPublic domain

It has grown dark and we are approaching Pittsburgh. A stop is made at East Liberty, and a delegation of brothers from R. B. Hawkins Division No. 114 of Pittsburgh get aboard and accompany us into Pittsburgh. The visitors kindly present each one of our party with a bouquet of roses. We arrive at Pittsburgh 8.12 P. M. and stop for eighteen minutes, leaving at 8.30 (7.30 Central) P. M. Time changes now from Eastern to Central, which makes us leave at 7.30 instead of 8.30. To some of us this is rather a perplexing thing, for we are leaving Pittsburgh forty-two minutes before we arrive there. A number of our party are setting their watches to Central time, I will allow mine to remain as it is, and will use Eastern time in my notes in connection with the Standard time of whatever locality we may be in.

Left Pittsburgh with P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 183, Engineer A. F. Winchell, Fireman O. Brown, who runs us to Dennison, Ohio, 93 miles. Conductor L. E. Schull, Brakemen W. A. Chambers and E. S. Chambers go with us to Columbus, Ohio, 193 miles. We almost regret that it is night, for we desire to see the country. At 9.50 (8.50 Central) P. M. we arrive at Steubenville, 43 miles from Pittsburgh, and stop five minutes for water.

We are now on the Pittsburgh Division of the Pennsylvania lines, operated by the Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway Company. The Pittsburgh Division extends from Pittsburgh, Pa., to Columbus, Ohio, a distance of 193 miles. Most of the party have turned in and at 11.30 (10.30 Central), just as our train stops at Dennison, Ohio, I prepare to undertake the novel experiment of trying to get a night’s sleep in the berth of a Pullman car. It is a new and strange experience to me, but I go at it to win. There is nobody in sight, but the presence of a carload of people is felt. The long, narrow aisle of the car is deserted, but I hesitate to exercise the privilege its deserted condition would seem to warrant. I desire to undress, but I wish to hide to do it, and with this end in view I crawl under the curtains that inclose our berth. As I do so the train starts on its way again. Mrs. S. has retired some time ago, and I think is asleep. There is not much room for me, but I determine to make the best of it. Balancing myself on the edge of the berth, I make a few changes in my apparel, and come very near being precipitated into the aisle while so doing by a sudden lurch of the car as the train struck a curve. In regaining my equilibrium I stepped upon the madam, who quietly inquired what I was trying to do. “Only coming to bed, my dear,” I answered. “Is that all,” she replied, “I have been watching you for some time and thought you either had a fit or else was practicing gymnastics and using the curtain pole for a horizontal bar.” I made no reply, I didn’t blame her, and lay down thankful that she was the only witness to the performance; and ours was not the only circus on the train that night; “there were others.”

SUNDAY, MAY 9th.

Got up early, after passing rather a restless night; did not sleep very well; finished dressing just as the train stops at Richmond, Ind., 5.55 (4.55 Central) A. M. Go outside and find it a lovely morning. Several of the boys are up. Have come 220 miles since I turned in last night as the train left Dennison, Ohio.

We are now on the Indianapolis Division of the Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway, which runs from Columbus, Ohio, to Indianapolis, Ind., a distance of 188 miles. Upon inquiry I learn that from Dennison to Columbus we had P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 59, Engineer Schultz. From Columbus to Indianapolis, P. C. C. & St. L. engine No. 102, Engineer John Cassell, Fireman W. Mason, Conductor J. E. Taylor, Brakemen Orvil Hyer and George Farmer. We arrive at Indianapolis 7.45 (6.45 Central) A. M., and leave there at 8.30 (7.30 Central) A. M. on the Main Line Division of the Vandalia Line, which extends from Indianapolis to St. Louis, a distance of 240 miles, and is controlled and operated by the Terre Haute and Indianapolis Railroad Company. T. H. & I. engine No. 34 is drawing us. It is called the World’s Fair engine, having been built at Pittsburgh and placed on exhibition at Chicago during the great exposition. It is a fine, large engine, and Engineer Fred. Wood, who runs it, says “she is a daisy.” The fireman is G. E. Hickman; conductor, A. J. Harshman; brakemen, J. G. McMahon and James Edmunds. Breakfast is announced as we leave Indianapolis, and no second invitation is required; our appetites are keen, and we thoroughly enjoy McDonald’s substantial and bountiful breakfast.

We pass through Terre Haute at 10.15 (9.15 Central) A. M., and cross the Wabash River a short distance west of the city. Ten minutes after passing through Terre Haute we cross the State line and enter Illinois. There is a delay of five minutes at Effingham by a hot box on engine 34. Just after leaving Effingham a stone was thrown by some one and broke an outside window in car “Milton,” section 4, occupied by Mr. and Mrs. L. E. Sheppard. A stop of five minutes is made at Greenville to oil and take water. Three strange men boarded the train at this point and were not noticed until after it had started, when they claimed they had made a mistake, thinking it a regular train. The train was stopped to leave them off. We partook of lunch at 1.15 (12.15 Central) P. M., being always ready to eat.

It is raining as we approach St. Louis, where we arrive at 2.30 (1.30 Central) P. M. The effects of last Summer’s terrible tornado can plainly be seen, as we cross the bridge from East St. Louis, in great piles of _débris_ that have not as yet been cleared away. On account of the rain the prospect of seeing much of the city is very poor. A trolley ride of five miles through the city to Forrest Park was taken by a number of our party. It is too wet to take a walk in the park, and after spending a half hour in a large pavilion watching the pouring rain we return to the Union Depot, which we look through and find it to be a large and magnificent structure, exceeding in size and excelling in grandeur our own Broad Street Station at Philadelphia. It was built at an expense of $6,500,000, and covers an area of 424,200 square feet. The train shed contains thirty tracks, which are used by twenty-two different roads.

Several of us met Conductor W. Fetzer, of the Louisville and Nashville, and had a pleasant half hour with him. On account of a defective flange, a pair of new wheels were put under the dining car “Lafayette” this afternoon. Mrs. Shaw, Mrs. Dale, Mrs. Reilly, and Miss Post are on the sick list this afternoon. Called to dinner at 8.30 (7.30 Central) P. M., after which we were escorted through the magnificent station by Stationmaster J. J. Coakley and Conductor A. J. Harshman. The station is lighted with thousands of electric lights of many different hues and colors. Every light is burning to-night, the second time since the construction of the station, the first time at its dedication, September 1st, 1894, and this the second time in honor of the visit of the Pennsylvania Railroad conductors, May 9th, 1897. Our most sincere thanks are due the kind and courteous stationmaster, J. J. Coakley, for the favor and honor accorded us. May his shadow never grow less.

An itinerary souvenir of our train over the Iron Mountain Route, Texas and Pacific and Southern Pacific Railways, from St. Louis to Los Angeles, via Texarkana and El Paso, was presented to each member of our party by the Iron Mountain Route management through Mr. Coakley. It is a neat little affair, much appreciated, and will be highly prized as a souvenir of our trip.

At 9.15 (8.15 Central) P. M. our train rolled out of the Grand Union Depot over the Iron Mountain Route, which extends from St. Louis to Texarkana, a distance of 490 miles. St. L. I. M. & S. engine No. 630 is drawing us, with Engineer John Hayes at the throttle, Fireman J. E. Schader, Conductor W. Hall, Brakeman J. L. Thompson, and Baggagemaster M. Madison. We have this engine and crew to Poplar Bluff, 166 miles, with the exception of the baggagemaster, who goes through to Texarkana. There is an inquiry for Brother Reagan; he has not been seen since leaving St. Louis. Our hearts are filled with consternation and alarm, for we believe he has been left, and how can we get along without “Jack; good, jolly, jovial Jack.” Maxwell’s eyes are dimmed with tears of sorrow, and McCarty is wringing his hands in grief. “Let us stop the train and return and get him,” suggested Mrs. Kalkman. “I believe he has been kidnaped,” said Brother Sloane, “or he would never have got left.” “He’s all right; I found him,” shouted Brother Waddington, as he entered the car, and there was great rejoicing when it was learned that instead of being kidnaped and left behind, Brother Reagan was peacefully sleeping in Brother Waddington’s berth in the drawing room in rear of the train.

F. B. DeGarmo, trainmaster of St. Louis, Iron Mountain

and Southern Railroad, and his assistant, T. H. Gray, accompanied us from St. Louis to Poplar Bluff, and Conductor P. Elkins, a member of DeSoto Division No. 241, got on at DeSoto and went with us to Bismarck. A large number of our party were gathered in the smoking car and we had quite an entertainment. Brother Elkins sang a number of songs, and the cook and waiters, one of them having a banjo, entertained us with songs and music hard to beat, and most thoroughly enjoyed by all. Conductors McDonald and Suter and Brother Haas sang excellent songs, and Wyman and Shaw gave recitations. Our genial train conductor, Capt. W. Hall, related some interesting stories of the days when this section of the country was terrorized by the operations and exploits of the Jesse James’ gang of train robbers. Captain Hall’s train was held up one night by this daring band of thieves at Gad’s Hill, 120 miles south of St. Louis. Hall was forced to surrender and remain quiet with the cold muzzle of a revolver pressed against his temple. An attempt was made to blow open the safe in the express car, but the robbers became frightened at their own noise and fled without securing any booty. The evening has been such a very enjoyable one that midnight approaches unawares; finding it so late we turn in, having less difficulty in doing so than we had last night.

MONDAY, MAY 10th.

Got up this morning at 6.30 (5.30 Central) and found our train in charge of Conductor H. C. Withrow and Engineer A. B. Archibald, with St. L. I. M. & S. engine No. 375, fired by T. Grifin. Captain Withrow took charge of the train at Poplar Bluff, with instructions to consume ten hours and thirty-two minutes in the run to Texarkana, a distance of 325 miles. Withrow has no brakeman, but is accompanied by a colored porter, J. J. Norris, who performs the duties of a brakeman. We are now in Arkansas, having crossed the State line last night at Moark, 185 miles south of St. Louis. We arrive at Little Rock, Ark., 8.15 (7.15 Central) A. M., and make a stop of ten minutes. We alight to look around and very much admire the “375,” and are informed that it is one of the best engines on the Iron Mountain Route and the first one built at the company’s new shops at Baring Cross, Little Rock, Ark. Went to breakfast at 9.10 (8.10 Central), hungry as a hyena.

We cannot help but notice as we journey through Arkansas the advanced condition of vegetation. Farmers in the East are only preparing their ground for corn, and here it is up; potatoes are in blossom, and peas are ready for use. Cotton is grown extensively here, and many acres are seen with the plants just peeping through the ground. We are now nearing the southern extremity of the State and approaching Texarkana, where we arrive at 12.35 (11.35 A. M. Central) P. M., having passed through the State of Arkansas 305 miles in a slightly southwesterly direction.

A stop of twenty-five minutes is given us at Texarkana, which is on the line between Arkansas and Texas, one-half of the station being in Arkansas and the other half in Texas. Brother Wyman, who acts in the double capacity of manager and clown, has a robe of crazy patchwork design, a veritable coat of many colors, in which he has arrayed himself, much to the amusement

of the crowd of natives who have assembled on our arrival. The antics of Brother Wyman and a number of others who have taken possession of a bronco and a team of donkeys occasion a great deal of merriment. As we are about to leave, Mrs. Robert Foulon was presented with a large bunch of beautiful magnolias by her friend, Mrs. Carmichael, of Texarkana. It graced the sideboard of the dining car for many days and was much admired.

Left Texarkana 1.35 (12.35 Central) P. M. on the Texas and Pacific Road, with T. & P. engine No. 126, Engineer William Gunn, Conductor Joseph Scully, Brakeman J. C. Smith, who will run us to Longview Junction, 97 miles. E. W. Campbell, trainmaster on the Eastern Division of the Texas and Pacific, will go with us to Fort Worth, the terminus of his division, 253 miles. Trainmaster Campbell is a member of Alamo Division No. 59, of Texarkana. Brother Sloane went to a barber shop in Texarkana and got left. Trainmaster Campbell left instructions for the conductor of the following train to carry him to Longview Junction, where he will overtake us. No “weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth” in this case, for we are assured of the safety of our brother.

We arrived at Longview Junction on time, 5.22 (4.22 Central) P. M., and five minutes later the following train, No. 55, arrived and with it came Brother Sloane, who was given quite a reception, the ladies presenting him with bouquets of natural grasses and flowers and the “boys” tying a cord to him and leading him into the train. He has promised not to do it again.

Our train was attached to No. 55, which is called the “Cannon Ball” Express, and at 5.35 (4.35 Central) P. M. we left Longview Junction with a train of nine cars, drawn by T. & P. engine No. 229, in charge of Engineer E. Smith, fired by S. Jones; Conductor E. R. Woodward, Porter and Brakeman Bristoe Young, who ran us to Fort Worth, a distance of 156 miles, where we arrive 11.20 (10.20 Central) P. M. Just before reaching the city we cross the Trinity River.

When we arrive at Fort Worth we learn that there is trouble ahead of us somewhere, caused by high water, which has a discouraging effect. We will lay over at this point to-night, with the expectation of learning more in the morning. There is a heavy thunder storm and it is raining hard as we turn in at 11.30 (10.30 Central) P. M.

TUESDAY, MAY 11th.

Got up at 6.30 (5.30 Central), and found it raining hard. It cleared up about eight o’clock and the party started out to see the town, it having been announced that our train would leave at 12.15 (11.15 A M. Central) P. M., nothing definite having been learned as to the trouble ahead. Our party received the best of treatment from the good people of the town, and many places of interest were visited. Officer H. C. Town, of the city police, loaded sixteen of the party in a patrol wagon and drove through the city to the City Hall, where they were kindly received and shown over the building, from there to the water works, and through the park to a point where a trolley line took them to the station. It was a very enjoyable trip. Others of our party visited other places of interest and had equally as good a time. A

number of souvenirs were procured, the most highly prized being the Texan sunbonnets, which so fascinated the ladies of our party that they purchased, it is said, all that were on sale in the city. They are very unique in style and worn very extensively by the native women of this locality. Brother Post purchased a Texan sombrero, and all agree that it is very becoming; the ladies are wearing their sunbonnets; Wyman has his circus gown and a Texan sunbonnet on; and a photographer is placing his apparatus in position to take a snap at the train and party before we leave. With the snap of the camera comes the shout of “all aboard,” and as we scamper on, the train moves slowly off, and we leave Fort Worth behind us, but carry away with us pleasant memories of the beauty of the city and of the kindness and civility of its people.

T. & P. engine No. 188, run by Engineer John Baker and fired by John Price, draws our train from Fort Worth to Big Springs, a distance of 270 miles. Conductor O. H. Bacon and Brakeman Charles Gunning go with us from Fort Worth to El Paso, a distance of 616 miles. Division Superintendent J. B. Paul accompanied us from Fort Worth to Weatherford, 31 miles. Shortly after leaving Weatherford we crossed the Brazos River and obtained a fine view of the Brazos Mountains. As we passed Eastland, 105 miles west of Fort Worth, we noticed devastation and ruin, the effect, we were told, of a recent cyclone. A few miles further we reach Baird and stop ten minutes for orders and water. A little boy about three years of age attracts the attention of some of our party, who ascertain that his name is Reynaud Strobe; his mother and grandfather live at the station; his father, who was an employe of the railroad, was killed in an accident about a year ago, almost in sight of his home. Master Reynaud is taken through the train and his little cap is filled with cake and coin and his infant mind with wonderment and awe. He cannot understand it, and his baby face expresses the puzzled condition of his mind. Should he live it is hoped he will remember the _Pennsylvania Railroad Conductors’ Excursion_.

We have now entered the plains of Texas and at 6.20 (5.20 Central) P. M. commence to pass through the prairie dog district. Brother Post is at the throttle; he ran No. 188 for about 50 miles and claims to have killed two jack rabbits and a prairie dog. Jack rabbits and prairie dogs are very numerous through this section, and can be seen scampering in all directions as the train thunders past. We are now nearing Big Springs, where a stop will be made to change engines. It has become dark, and we can no longer view the landscape, jack rabbits, and prairie dogs. We arrive at Big Springs 10.15 (9.15 Central) P. M., and after a delay of fifteen minutes leave with T. & P. engine No. 75, manned by Engineer D. C. Everley and Fireman Lewis Lem, whose run extends to El Paso, 347 miles. We have now entered the Great Staked Plains, and regretting that the darkness prevents us from seeing this famous country, we retire for the night at 12.20 (11.20 P. M. Central) A. M.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 12th.

Turned out this morning about the usual time, and found the train standing at San Martine Station, 174 miles east of El Paso. As we move on our way again we find we are passing through a picturesque, but barren

country of plains and mountain ranges. A run of 50 miles from San Martine brings us to Van Horn, where we make a halt of forty-five minutes and are entertained by Mrs. M. R. Beach and her son Fred. Mrs. Beach has charge of the station at Van Horn, which is also a supply station for the railroad. Fred. is a young man about twenty-five years old, and a veritable cowboy both in appearance and deportment. He entertained and amused the party with an exhibition of bronco riding, and to show his skill in the use of the lasso, chased Brother Wyman and lassoed him with the bronco at a full run. Miss Myrtle Taylor, a young lady who is visiting Mrs. Beach, also rode the bronco for the amusement of the party, but it was noticed that the animal exhibited a far more gentle spirit under the young lady’s management than it did when in charge of Fred. A cyclone cellar in the back yard was an object of much interest, and the interior was explored by several of the party. All the dwellings, of which there are but few through this region, we are told, have their cyclone pits. For many miles through this country there are no habitations except along the line of the railroad, and the people are all employes of the Texas and Pacific Railroad Company.

Leaving Van Horn, we pass close to the Sierra Blanca Mountain range, and in a short time stop at Sierra Blanca, where we lay over for half an hour and devote the time to looking around. Sierra Blanca is 92 miles southeast of El Paso and is the conjunction of the Texas and Pacific and Southern Pacific Railroads, which use joint tracks from this point to El Paso. A number of us visited the adobe residence of Jacob Hand, an aged miner and prospector, who kindly allowed us to inspect his dwelling, which is a very unique and novel affair, a part of which is used for a school, and the old gentleman is the teacher. Mr. Hand generously gave our party specimens of gold, silver, and copper ore, which are highly prized as souvenirs. Brother Haas had considerable difficulty in getting in range of the old gentleman with his kodak, but succeeded by strategy in getting a “snap” before we left; also one of a group of the party with the dwelling in the background. In the midst of the group is seen a Mexican babe held in the arms of one of the ladies of the party, who is closely watched by the mother of the infant, who fears her babe will be appropriated for a souvenir.

Leaving Sierra Blanca, we pass in sight and within about 20 miles of Livermore’s Peak, 8200 feet high, said to be the highest point in Texas. We have now entered a wild, barren, broken, uninhabited region, hemmed in by dreary, ominous-looking mountain ranges. As the road traverses this broken, desolate district, there are places where almost complete circles are made in order to avoid ridges and ravines. Just after passing Malone Station, 15 miles from Sierra Blanca, we encounter a curve, and after following the circle for over a mile, find the tracks are less than 200 yards apart.

Mrs. Wyman, Mrs. Layfield, Mrs. Shaw, Brother Layfield, and myself rode on the engine from Finlay to Ft. Hancock, which afforded us a fine view of the rugged scenery through which we passed. We arrived at washout, 5 miles east of El Paso, at 5.30 (4.30 Central) P. M., and find our train can proceed no further until the track is repaired, four miles of it at the present time being under water.

Wagons were in waiting to convey the party six miles across a desert plateau to El Paso at one dollar per head; all but a few took advantage of this method of reaching the city. The remembrance of this ride will not fade from the memory in a hurry--six miles of knee-deep, red-hot desert, dust and sand, through which the horses could scarcely drag their loads. We have a good view of the flooded district and notice many buildings surrounded with water, the occupants of which were forced to flee to higher ground. All this water, we are told, is the result of melting snows away up in the mountain districts, 75 or 80 miles away. There is seldom any rain through this region, and the Rio Grande, one half the year a shallow, insignificant stream, is to-day spread over many miles of country, causing devastation, ruin, and suffering.