Chapter 3

Pare, quarter, and boil the Quince with as much Water as will cover it, putting in a little more as it boils, but not too much; let it be a very strong Jelly, and run it through a Jelly-bag; put a Pound and a Half of the finest sifted Sugar to a Pint of Jelly; let the Jelly boil, then put in the Sugar, and let it scald 'till the Sugar is melted; then put it through a Strainer, laid in a broad Earthen Pan; fill it in little Pots, and when it is hard candy'd, turn it on Glasses as other Clear-Cakes: Colour the Jelly, if you wou'd have any Red Quince Clear-Cakes, with the Jelly of black Bullace, and let it boil after the Red is in, before you put in the Sugar.

_To preserve GOLDEN or KENTISH-PIPPINS._

Boil the Rind of an Orange very tender, and let it lye in Water two or three Days; then make a strong Jelly with Pippins, and run it through a Jelly-bag. Take Golden-Pippins, pare them, and scoop out all the Coar at the Stalk End: To twelve Pippins put two Pound of Sugar and three Quarters of a Pint of Water, boil the Sugar and skim it; put in the Pippins and the Orange-Rind cut into thin Slices; let them boil as fast as they can 'till the Sugar is very thick, and almost a Candy; then put in a Pint of the Pippin-Jelly, and boil them very fast 'till they jelly very well; then put in the Juice of a Lemmon, give it one Boil, and put them in Pots or Glasses, with the Orange mix'd with them. The _Kentish_ Pippins are better in Quarters than whole.

_To preserve WHOLE ORANGES or LEMMONS._

Rasp them very thin, just the Outside Rind off; lay them in Water twenty four Hours; then set them on the Fire with a good Quantity of Water; let them boil 'till they are very tender; then put them in cold Water again, and let them lye two Days; the Lemmons need not lye but one Day; then, to four Oranges or Lemmons put two Pound of fine Sugar and a Pint of Water; boil and skim it, and when it is cold, put in the Oranges or Lemmons, and let them lye four or five Days in cold Syrup; then boil them 'till they are clear; set them by in an Earthen Pan a Day or two more; then boil them again, and put them in Jelly, thus: Take Pippin-Jelly, and to a Pint put a Pound of fine Sugar; boil it 'till the Jelly is very strong; then heat your Oranges, and put them to the Jelly, with half their Syrup; boil them very fast a Quarter of an Hour; when you take them off the Fire, put in the Juice of two or three Lemmons; put them in Pots that will hold the Jelly: To four Oranges you may put one Pint and a Half of Jelly, and one Pound and a Half of Sugar. Lemmons must be done by themselves. _Sevil_ Oranges and _Malaga_ Lemmons are best.

_To dry ORANGES in KNOTS, or LEMMONS._

Rasp the Oranges or Lemmons with a sharp Knife, as thin and as small as you can, and break the Rasping as little as you can, that the Outside Rind may make but two or three Knots; then cut the Oranges, and pick out all the Meat; and the white Rind makes another Sort of Knots: Let both the Rinds lye two Days in a Sieve, or broad Pan, before you boil them, or they will break; then put them in cold Water, and boil them about an Hour; let them drain well from the Water, and clarify as much single-refin'd Sugar as will cover them very well; when the Syrup is cold put them in, and let them stand four or five Days; dry them out as you use them; and when you take any out to dry, boil them which you leave in the Syrup. They must be candy'd out thus: Take as many as you desire to dry; the white Halves must be cut in Rings, or Quarters, as you like them; then take as much clarify'd Sugar as will cover them; boil them very fast a great while, 'till the Sugar shall blow, which you may see, if you put in a Ladle with Holes, and blow thro', you will see the Sugar fly from the Ladle; then take it off, and rub the Candy against the Pan Sides, and round the Bottom, 'till the Sugar looks Oily; then put them out on a Sieve, to let the Sugar run from them; and as quick as possible lay them in Knots on another Sieve; set them in a Stove, they will be dry in an Hour or two: If you do but a few at a Time, the Syrup you put to them at first will do them out. Whole Oranges or Lemmons are done the fame Way, only boil the whole after they are rasp'd, and cut a Hole at the Top, and pick out all the Meat after they are boil'd, and before they are put in the Syrup; and when they are laid on a Sieve to dry, put the Piece in again.

_To make CHINA CHIPS._

Cut the Rind of _China_ Oranges in long Chips, but very thin, and with none of the White; boil them in Water 'till they are very tender; then drain them, and put them into a very thick cold Syrup of clarify'd Sugar; let them lye a Day or two; then scald them, and when they are cold lay them to dry on Earthen Plates in a Stove. _Sevil_ Oranges will do the same Way, if you like them with a little Sugar, and very bitter.

_To make ORANGE-PASTE._

Rasp the Oranges, and you may make the Outside for Knots; then cut the Oranges, and pick out all the Meat, and all the Stones from the Meat; boil the white Rinds very tender, drain them well, and beat them fine; to a Pint and half of the Meat put a Pound of the beaten Rind; mix it well, make it scalding hot; then put in three Pound of fine Sugar sifted thro' an Hair Sieve; stir it well in, and scald it 'till the Sugar is well melted; then put in the Juice of three large Lemmons: Put the Paste in flat Earthen Pans, or deep Plates; set it in the Stove 'till it is candy'd; then drop it on Glasses: Let what is too thin to drop stand 'till 'tis candy'd again: Once turning will dry it. _Sevil_ Oranges make the best.

_To make ORANGE-DROPS._

Take about a Dozen Oranges, squeeze out the Juice, boil the Rind very tender, cut out most of the White, and beat the yellow Rind very fine; rub it thro' an Hair Sieve, and to a Pound of the Pulp put a Pound and a Half of fine Sugar, sifted thro' an Hair Sieve; mix it well in, and put in the Juice 'till you make it thin enough to drop from a Tea-Spoon: Drop it on Glasses, and set it by the Fire; let it stand there about two Hours, and then put it in a Stove; the next Day turn it: it will be dry in twenty four Hours.

_To make ORANGE-MARMALET._

Rasp the Oranges, cut out the Meat, boil the Rinds very tender, and beat them very fine; then take three Pound of fine Sugar and a Pint of Water, boil and skim it; then put in a Pound of Rind, boil it fast 'till the Sugar is very thick; then put in a Pint of the Meat of the Orange, (the Seeds being pick'd out) and a Pint of very strong Pippin-Jelly; boil all together very fast, 'till it jellies very well, which will be half an Hour; then put it in Pots or Glasses, with Papers close to it.

_To make ORANGE or LEMMON CLEAR-CAKES._

Make a very strong Pippin-Jelly; when it is run thro' a Jelly-bag, take a Quart of Jelly, and the Meat of three or four Oranges, boil them together, and rub it thro' a Jelly-bag again; then take a Quarter of a Pint of Orange-Juice, a Quarter of a Pound of fine Sugar, and let it have a Boil; then put it into your Jelly, but first measure your Jelly; put half the Syrup of the Oranges to a Pint of Juice, and the Outside of an Orange, boil'd in two or three Waters, and shred very fine; make them scalding hot together; then to a Pint of Jelly take a Pound and a Half of Sugar, boiling the Sugar to a Candy; then put in your Jelly, but not altogether; because if it all boil in the hot Sugar, it will not dry: As soon as it has done boiling, put in the rest; set it over the Fire 'till all the Candy is well melted; but take Care it does not boil; then fill it in little Pots, dry and turn it on Glasses, as other Clear-Cakes. Lemmons are done the same Way.

_To make POMEGRANATE CLEAR-CAKES._

Make a strong Pippin-Jelly, and slice a Lemmon into it, Rind and all; boil it well, and run it thro' the Jelly-bag again; then colour it as you like it: To a Pint of the Jelly take half a Quarter of Orange-Syrup, made as for Orange Clear-Cakes; let it have a Boil together, and boil a Pound and a Half of Sugar to a Candy; put your Jelly to the Candy, a little at a Time, 'till the Sugar has done boiling, then put in all the rest; scald it 'till the Candy is well melted, fill it in Pots, and dry it as other Clear-Cakes.

The Colour is made thus: Take as much Carmine as you can have for Half-a-Crown, put to it two Ounces of Sugar, and as much Water as will wet it; give it a Boil, and then colour your Jelly with it.

_To make ORANGE-HALVES, or QUARTERS, with the Meat in them._

Rasp the Oranges round and thin, cut them in Halves, pick out the Meat, boil the Halves very tender, then take half of them, that are clearest and best, and put them in a thick cold Syrup, as much as will cover them; the Syrup must be made with fine Sugar, half a Pint of Water to a Pound of Sugar; beat the other Half of the Rinds very fine; pick the Seeds out of the Meat; and to a Pint of the Meat put half a Pound of the beaten Rinds; scald it very well, and stir it into a Pound and a Half of sifted Sugar; scald it 'till the Sugar is well melted; put in the Juice of a Lemmon or two; set it in a broad Earthen Pan in a Stove; when the Half Orange-Rinds have lain three or four Days in the Syrup, boil them very fast 'till they are clear, and the Syrup very thick; when they are cold, lay them out on Earthen Plates in a Stove; the next Day, if you think they have not Sugar enough on them, dip them in the Syrup that runs from them; they must not have dry Sugar on them, but only a Gloss; before they are quite dry, fill them with the Meat; set them on a Sieve, to dry in a Stove, which will be in a Day or two.

_To preserve CITRONS._

Take the largest _Malaga_ Citrons, cut them in four Quarters, scrape the Rind a little, but not all the Yellow off; cut out all the Meat; lay them in Water all Night; then boil them very tender, and lay them in Water another Night; then drain them very well, and to three Pound of Citron take four Pound of fine Sugar and two Quarts of Water; make the Sugar and Water just warm, put in the Citron, boil it half an Hour, and set it by 'till the next Day; then boil it 'till it is very clear, and put in a Pound more of Sugar, just wet with Water, boiling it fast 'till it is melted: Put in the Juice of four Lemmons, and put it up in large Pots.

_To make CITRON MARMALET._

Boil the Citron very tender, cut off all the yellow Rind, beat the White very well in a Tray, or wooden Bowl, shred the Rind, and to a Pound of the Pulp and Rind take a Pound and a Half of Sugar and half a Pint of Water; when it boils, put in the Citron, boil it very fast 'till it is clear; then put in half a Pint of Pippin-Jelly, and boil it 'till it jellies very well; then put in the Juice of a Lemmon: Put it in Pots or Glasses.

_To candy ORANGE-FLOWERS._

Take the Flowers full blown, pick the white Leaves, and put them in Water an Hour or two; then put them into boiling Water, letting them boil 'till they are tender; then drain them from that Water, and let them lye in cold Water, 'till you make a Syrup of very fine Sugar, as much as you think will cover them; to a Pound of Sugar put three Quarters of a Pint of Water; and when the Syrup is cold, put in the Leaves, and let them lye all Night; scald them the next Day, and let them lye in the Syrup two or three Days; then make a Syrup, (if you have a Pound of the Flowers) with a Pound and Half of fine Sugar and half a Pint of Water; boil and skim it, and when it is cold, drain the Flowers from the thin Syrup, and put them in the Thick; let them lye two or three Days; then make them just hot, and in a Day or two more lay them out on Glasses: Spread them very thin, sift them with fine Sugar, and put them in a Stove: Four or five Hours will dry them on one Side; then scrape them on Paper with the wet Side uppermost, and set them in the Stove 'till they are almost dry; then pick them asunder, and let them be in a Stove 'till they are quite dry: You may put some of them in Jelly, if you like it.

_To make ROCK-SUGAR._

Take a red Earthen Pot, that will hold about four Quarts, (those Pots that are something less at the Top and Bottom than in the Middle) stick it pretty thick with the Sticks of a white Wisk, a-cross, one over the other; set it before a good Fire, that it may be very hot against your Sugar is boil'd; then take ten Pound of double-refin'd Sugar finely beaten, the Whites of two Eggs beaten to a Froth in half a Pint of Water, and mix it with the Sugar; then put to it a Quart of Orange-flower-water and three half Pints of Water, setting it on a quick Fire; when it boils thoroughly put in half a Pint of Water more to raise the Scum, and let it boil up again; then take it off and skim it; do so two or three Times, 'till it is very clear; then let it boil, 'till you find it draw between your Fingers, which you must often try, with taking a little in the Ladle; and as it cools, it will draw like a Thread; then put it into the hot Pot, covering it close, and setting it in a very hot Stove for three Days: It must stand three Weeks; but after the three first Days a moderate Fire will do; but never stir the Pots, nor let the Stove be quite cold: Then take it out, and pour out all the Syrup, the Rock will be on the Sticks and the Pot-sides: set the Pots in cold Water, in a Pan, on the Fire, and when it is thorough hot all the Rock will slip out, and fall most of it in small Pieces; the Sticks you must just dip in hot Water, and that will make the Rock slip off; then put in a good Handful of dry Orange-Flowers, and take a Ladle with Holes, and put the Rock and Flowers in it, as much as will make as big a Lump as you wou'd like; dip it in scalding Water, and lay it on a Tin Plate; then make it up in handsome Lumps, and as hollow as you can: When it is so far prepar'd, put it in a hot Stove, and the next Day it will stick together; then take it off the Plates, and let it lye two or three Hours in the Stove; if there be any large Pieces, you may make Bottoms of them, and lay small Pieces on them.

_To make FRUIT-BISCUIT._

Scald the Fruit, dry it well from the Water, and rub it through a Hair Sieve; stir it in a Pan over a slow Fire, 'till it is pretty dry; the stiffer it is, the better; then take two Pound of fine Sugar, sifted thro' an Hair Sieve, and a Spoonful of Gum-Dragon steep'd very well, and strain'd, and about a Quarter of a Pound of Fruit; mix it well with Sugar, beat it with a Biscuit-Beater, and take the Whites of twelve Eggs, beat up to a very stiff Froth; put in but a little at a Time, beating it 'till it is all in, and looks as white as Snow, and very thick; then drop it on Papers, and put it in an Oven; the Oven must be very cool, and shut up, to make them rise: The Lemmon-Biscuit is made the same Way, only instead of Fruit put in the Juice of three Lemmons; less will make two Pound; it must have Juice enough to make it to a Paste, and the Rinds of two Lemmons grated; and when it is beaten enough, put in a little Musk, or Amber, and drop and bake it as other.

_To make all Sorts of SUGAR-PASTE._

Sift your Sugar thro' a Lawn Sieve, then sift some Starch as fine; to a Pound of Sugar put a Quarter of a Pound of Starch; make it of what Colour you please, into a stiff Paste; putting thereto Gum-Dragon well steep'd in Orange-Flower-Water; beat it well in a Mortar, and make it in Knots or Shells in a Mould or Moss, with rubbing it thro' an Hair Sieve: The Red must be colour'd with Carmine; the Yellow with Gumboodge, steep'd in Water, and put to the Gum; the Green is made with Yellow Gum, putting to it Stone-Blue steep'd in Water; the Brown with Chocolate, and the Blue with Smalt.

_To make CHOCOLATE-ALMONDS._

Take two Pound of fine sifted Sugar, half a Pound of Chocolate grated, and sifted thro' an Hair Sieve, a Grain of Musk, a Grain of Amber, and two Spoonfuls of Ben; make this up to a stiff Paste with Gum-Dragon steep'd well in Orange-Flower-Water; beat it well in a Mortar; make it in a Mould like Almonds; lay them to dry on Papers, but not in a Stove.

_To make WORMWOOD-CAKES._

Sift fine Sugar thro' an Hair Sieve, and cover it with Carmine; wet it more than a Candy with Water; boil it pretty fast 'till it is almost at a Candy Height; then put in about three Drops of Spirit of Wormwood, and fill it into little Coffins made of Cards; when it boils in the Coffins it is enough; you must not boil above half a Pound at a Time, or less: The Spirit of Wormwood must be that which looks black, and as thick as Oil, and must have two or three Boils in the Cakes after you put it in.

_To make HONEYCOMB-CAKES of ORANGE-FLOWER-VIOLET of COWSLIPS._

Take about half a Pound of fine Sugar, sifted thro' an Hair Sieve, wet it more than for a Candy, with Orange-Flower-Water, for the Orange-Flower-Cakes, and fair Water for the other Cakes; boil it almost to Candy Height, and then put in the Leaves of the Flowers; boil them a little in the Candy, or it will be too thin; then put it in Card-Coffins.

_To make ICE ALMOND-CAKES._

Beat a Pound of Almonds very fine, with Rose-Water, to keep them from Oiling; mix them with half a Pound of sifted Sugar, make them up into little long or round Cakes, which you like best; put them in a Stove or before a Fire, 'till they are dry on one Side, and then turn them; and when they are dry on both Sides, take very fine Sugar sifted; to a Pound take as much White of Eggs as will just wet it; beat it with a Spoon, and as it grows white put in a little more Egg, 'till it is thin enough to ice the Cakes; then ice first one Side, and when that is dry before the Fire, ice the other: Be sure one Side is dry before you do the other.

_To make BEAN'D-BREAD._

Blanch half a Pound of Almonds, slice them thin the long Way, lay them in Rose-Water all Night; then drain them from the Water, and set them by the Fire, stirring them 'till they are a little dry and very hot; then put to them fine Sugar sifted, enough to hang about them. (They must not be so wet as to make the Sugar like Paste; nor so dry, but that the Sugar may hang together.) Then lay them in Lumps on Wafer-Paper, and set them on Papers in an Oven, after Puffs, or any very cool Oven that Pies have been baked in.

_To make ORANGE or LEMMON-PUFFS._

Take a Pound of fine sifted Sugar, and grate the Outside Rind of two large Oranges or Lemmons; put the Rind to the Sugar, and beat them well together in a Mortar; grind it well with a Pestle, and make it up to a stiff Paste with Gum-Dragon well steep'd; then beat the Paste again, rowl or square it, and bake it in a cool Oven, on Papers and Tin-Plates.

_To make ALMOND-PASTE, either BITTER or SWEET: The BITTER are RATAFEA._

Blanch and beat a Pound of Almonds; put in just Rose-Water enough to keep them from Oiling; then take a Pound of fine Sugar, and boil it to a Candy; and when it is almost at a Candy Height, put in the Almonds; stir them over a cool Fire 'till it is a very dry stiff Paste, and almost cold, and set it by 'till it is quite cold; then beat it well in a Mortar, and put to it a Pound and a Half of fine sifted Sugar; rub it very well together, and make it up with a Spoonful of well-steep'd Gum-Dragon and Whites of Eggs, whip'd to a Froth; then squirt it, and bake it in a cool Oven; put into the Sweet-Almonds the Rind of a Lemmon grated, but none in the Bitter: If you don't make the first Paste stiff, they will run about the Oven. Bake them on Papers and Tin-Plates.

_To make LITTLE ROUND RATAFEA-PUFFS._

Take half a Pound of Kernels, or Bitter-Almonds, beat very stiff, and a Pound and a Half of sifted Sugar; make it up to a stiff Paste with White of Eggs whip'd to a Froth; beat it well in a Mortar, and make it up in little Loaves; then bake them in a very cool Oven, on Paper and Tin-Plates.

_To make BROWN-WAFERS._

Take half a Pint of Milk and half a Pint of Cream, and put to it half a Pound of brown Sugar; melt and strain it thro' a Sieve; take as much fine Flower as will make one half of the Milk and Cream very stiff, then put in the other Half; stir it all the while, that it may not be in Lumps; then put in two Eggs well beaten, a little Sack, some Mace shred fine, two or three Cloves beaten: Bake in Irons.

_To make ALMOND-LOAVES._

Beat a Pound of Almonds very fine, mix them well with three Quarters of a Pound of sifted Sugar, set them over the Fire, keep them stirring 'till they are stiff, and put in the Rind of a Lemmon grated; make them up in little Loaves, shake them very well in the Whites of Eggs beat to a very stiff Froth, that the Egg may hang about them; then put them in a Pan with about a Pound of fine sifted Sugar, shake them 'till they are well cover'd with the Sugar; divide them if they stick together, and add more Sugar, 'till they begin to be smooth, and dry; and when you put them on Papers to bake, shake them in a Pan that is just wet with White of Eggs, to make them have a Gloss: Bake them after Biscuit, on Papers and Tin-Plates.

_To make CHOCOLATE-PUFFS._

Take a Pound of fine sifted Sugar, and three Ounces of Chocolate grated, and sifted thro' an Hair Sieve; make it up to a Paste with White of Eggs whip'd to a Froth; then beat it well in a Mortar, and make it up in Loaves, or any Fashion you please. Bake it in a cool Oven, on Papers and Tin-Plates.

_To make RATAFEA-DROPS, either of APRICOCK-KERNELS, or half BITTER, and half SWEET-ALMONDS._

Take a Pound of Kernels or Almonds beat very fine with Rose-Water; take a Pound of sifted Sugar and the Whites of five Eggs beat to a Froth, mix them well together, and set them on a slow Fire; keep them stirring, 'till they begin to be stiff; when they are quite cold, make them in little round Drops: Bake them after the long Biscuit, on Paper and Tin-Plates.

_To make all Sorts of SUGAR-PUFFS._

Take very fine beaten Sugar, sifted thro' a Lawn Sieve, make it up into a Paste, with Gum-Dragon very well steep'd in Rose-Water, or Orange-Flower-Water; beat it in a Mortar, squirt it, and bake it in a cool Oven. Colour the Red with Carmine, Blue with Powder-Blue, Yellow with steep'd Gamboodge put into Gum, and Yellow and Blue will make Green: Bake them after all other Puffs. Sugar the Papers well before you squirt the Puffs on Papers and Tin-Plates.

_To make ALMOND-PASTE._

Lay a Pound of Almonds all Night in Water, and warm some Water the next Day to make them blanch, and then beat them very fine with Rose-Water; and to a Pound of Almonds take a Pound and a Quarter of fine Sugar; wet it with Water, boil it to a Candy Height, and then put to your Almonds three Spoonfuls of Rose-Water, mix it, and put it to the Candy; set it over the Fire 'till it is scalding hot, then put in the Juice of a Lemmon and the Rind grated; stir it over the Fire, and then drop it on Glass or clean Boards: Put it in a hot Stove; twelve Hours will dry it; then turn it, and dry it the other Side.

_To make LONG-BISCUIT._

Take thirty Eggs, (the Whites of fourteen (break twenty eight of them; beat them very well with two Spoonfuls of Rose-Water; then put in three Pound of sifted Sugar, and beat it all the while the Oven is heating; then dry two Pound and a Quarter of fine Flower, let it be cold before you put it in, and put in the two Eggs left out; stir it well, and drop it. It must have a very quick Oven. Bake it almost as fast as you can fill your Oven; the Papers must be laid on Tin-Plates, or they will burn at the Bottom. This fame Biscuit was the Queen's Seed-Biscuit. Put to half this Quantity half a Pound of Caraway-Seeds, and bake it in large square Tin-Pans, buttering the Pans: It bakes best in a cool Oven, after the Drop-Biscuit is baked.

_To make SPUNGE-BISCUIT._