Part 20

The Patriarch was very merry with us, and presented us with some _Venice_ bottles of his wine, whereof we drank a good deal, for it was so pleasant that I must confess that I never in all my life drank any like it. Soon after we broke up again, with an intention to reach his monastery that night, called _Our Lady_’s, which lieth on the middle of the mountain as we travelled towards the top thereof; in the beginning we came into a narrow and rough valley, which had on both sides very steep walls, wherewith it was inclosed of a vast height, chiefly at our left hand, and yet towards the top, there were several caves within them, wherein Christians live, whereof we saw a great many that appeared so near to the edges as they went about, that we that travelled underneath, had much to do to keep us from being giddy. In that place (where from the height one may plainly see the whole neighbourhood to the very seas, as if it was a Specula, such as the ancients used to have) is always a strong watch kept by the inhabitants of these mountains (because they are not under the jurisdiction of the _Turks_, as others are, nor in any league with them) to hinder the _Turks_ from making incursions upon them. When we went farther, and got over some little hills, we came out of this narrow place into wide meadows, pastures, corn fields, and to some fruitful vineyards; then again into narrow and deep rocky roads where we had enough to do to climb over; and afterwards again into pleasant groves, by delightful rivulets that arose from springs that made so sweet a noise, that those mountains are therefore admired and commended, chiefly by King _Solomon_ in the 4th chapter of his Song, verse 15. in comparison, where he mentioneth the streams from _Lebanon_, which make _Damascus_ one of the most pleasant and delicious places in the world.

On this mount grow here and there, besides ordinary trees and bushes, thick shrubby vines, _Zizipha alba_ & _ratila_, Poplars, two kinds of Dwarf-cedars with pointed and obtuse leaves, _Eupatorium Mesuæ_, _Absinthium Ponticum_, _Elæagni Math._ by the inhabitants called _Seisesun_; and wild horn beams, a peculiar sort of willows, _Phyllireas_, _Styrax_-trees, the fragrant Gum whereof is to be found in apothecaries shops; but chiefly, and in the greatest number were the Maple-trees, which are large, big, high, and expand themselves very much with their branches. After we had rested ourselves, and were a little refreshed underneath these, our labour began again, to climb up these high and steep steps. When we were thus a climbing, some country people, that we saw up so high before, came out of their caves down to us, with mugs full of wine, which they presented first to their master the Patriarch that was on horseback, receiving him with a great deal of reverence (bowing themselves down to his feet) and loving kindness, and afterwards they did detain us also, and presented each of us with a mug of wine to bid us welcome, which I and the rest received very willingly, but having pretty well heated myself with going, I at that time loved spring water with bread dipt in it very well, I only tasted a little of it. After we were got up these stairs, a great many more came running to present their master with chickens, pullets and other poultry, which his man took and carried up with them. Then the ways were pretty good and much straighter, so that we went on apace, until at length we came to the monastery, which we could not see before we came just upon it. Just before it without is a most incomparable copious spring, that floweth with delicate water, which is worthy to be often visited.

This monastry, which is not extraordinary built, lieth towards the left, almost in the middle of the mountain, under a great rock, which doth so cover and preserve it, that it cannot easily receive any harm from above. At our arrival the Monks came immediately, whereof I saw no more than ten, and received us very kindly, and shew’d us presently our lodging, which because they had no chambers to spare, was an arch’d chapel, that we might know whither to repair: Yet we kept more upon the top of the house, which was like others, cover’d with plaister, which was the delicatest and pleasantest place of all the buildings, where we could see the situation of the snowy hill towards the east above the Cedars, which was a very pleasant sight, and also below us several other hills, whereon they feed their cattle, together with the deep and dark valley: and, the monastry being but small, so that they had not much room in it, we also supp’d there in the open air with the Patriarch and some of his Fraternity, on a long table. They treated us very well, and gave us some white wine to drink, which was better than that we drunk on the hill, in _Venice_ glasses, the like whereof is not to be found, neither in _Candia_ nor _Cyprus_. But they feed, according to their order, only upon plain food as beans, and _French_ beans, and the like leguminous fruit, _&c._ At night when they conducted us to our lodging to go to rest, they shew’d us instead of beds some straw mats and tapestry, spread upon the ground in their church on which we were to lie, and so we did and rested that night. In the morning they came very early before break of day into the church, when we were still very sleepy, to do their office, and began immediately to ring two bells, which made underneath the rock such a resounding noise, that it stupify’d us, and made us (chiefly because some of us had heard none in two years time, and were full of sleep and but half awake) so dull, that we did not for a good while know where we were, until we came a little to ourselves again. Afterwards I heard them with attention for a good while, and did look into their books which were written with _Arabian_ letters; but what religion they were of, I shall tell you hereafter, when I shall make mention of other Christians.

At break of day we made ourselves ready to go farther up the hill, to the height thereof where the Cedars stand, to see them, so that we might come to the monastery again. Along with us went two Monks to shew us the way; they conducted us back again to the rich springs of water, to the stairs, which were very rough, and so steep that we were often forced to hold ourselves by the bushes, which we could reach at both sides; but chiefly when we turned on a sudden, of which turnings they had very many. So we got up higher and higher, with a great deal of labour, until we came to a little chapel standing just at the top of the stairs on the hill. Near to this chapel is a small village, which we went through, and saw spacious fields well cultivated, so that the inhabitants of these mountains, could have no want of corn, wine, flesh or oyl, _&c._ although their neighbours should not supply them for years with any thing; and besides, their lands are so well secured on the height, and so lock’d up, as if they were surrounded with high walls and deep ditches; and moreover they are a very stout and warlike people, very well provided with bows and guns, _&c._ so that their neighbours cannot easily hurt nor do any mischief to them; and they are also soon alarm’d, which we found, when these two Monks did immediately raise twelve men well arm’d, in the farthermost village towards the snowy hill, to conduct us safe up to the Cedars of the highest mount, that their neighbours the _Trusci_ might not hurt us. But as I understood afterwards the _Trusci_ are in confederacy with the inhabitants of mount _Libanus_, so that they need not to fear any harm from them. But they rather did it to frighten us, to get a good recompence from us that they might rejoice, and treat us the better, as Christians, on our return. So these twelve went before us and conducted us up to another, but very barren and rough plain, where we found ourselves to be upon the highest point of the mountain, and saw nothing higher but only a small hill before us, all cover’d over with snow, at the bottom whereof the high Cedar-trees were standing, some whereof King _Solomon_ ordered to be cut down to be employ’d for the use of the building of the temple of _Jerusalem_. And although this hill hath in former ages been quite cover’d over with Cedars, yet they are since so decreased, that I could tell no more but twenty four, that stood round about in a circle, and two others, the branches whereof are quite decay’d with age. I also went about in this place to look out for some young ones, but could find none at all. These trees are green all the year long, have strong stems that are several fathoms about, and are as high as our Fir-trees. They have very large twigs that bend the tree, and make it lean that way, which somewhat spoileth their straightness. Branches grow up straight, as also do the cones thereof, which are large and round, and extend themselves a great length, in so delicate and pleasant order and evenness, as if they were trimm’d, and made even with a great deal of diligence, so that at a distance, you may see the tops of them very even to one another. So that one may immediately see at a great distance, a great difference between these and other Fir-trees. They are else very like unto the Larch-trees chiefly in their leaves, which are small, and all close together, but stand farther asunder upon small brown shoots, which in their length and bigness are like unto them of the _Muscus terrestris_.

After we had rested awhile underneath the Cedars, and began to be coldish in this windy, snowy, and cold place, we began to return to the monastry again. By the way I saw about the river three sorts of _Tragacantha_, one whereof I took according to it’s shape to be that of the learned _Carolus Clusius_, which is very like unto the true _Tragacantha_. The second is somewhat lower than the first, else it is very like unto it, only it beareth yellow flowers, each whereof groweth by itself in round yellowish bags, and several of them stand one above the other on long stalks. The third is almost of the same height, and hath more brown colour’d strong stalks, with white woolly heads of _Poterius_, whereon you see purple coloured flowers. I found also by them another plant, which to be brief, considering it’s brown colour’d flexible twigs, and longish fat leaves, is very like unto the _Chamælea_, of a very sharp taste, I think to be the first kind of _Sanamunda_ of _Carolus Clusius_. Besides these I saw hereabouts two thorny shrubs, one whereof was, with it’s red colour’d grapes (setting the leaves aside as far as I remember) very like unto our _Oxyacantha_. The other, which was full of thorns, and had small red purple colour’d flowers, was like unto the first kind of _Scorpius_ of _Carolus Clusius_. Among the bushes I saw the _Scorzonera_ with yellow flowers, and also a pretty sort of Tulips with yellow stripes, and not far from it the true _Ribes_ of the _Arabians_, which I found in autumn at an ill time, without flowers or seeds, only with two leaves, as if it was just sprung up. The leaves thereof are rough and round, as big very near as those of _Petasites_, call’d Butterburn in our language, which grow upon short yet thick stalks, which are also full of a pleasant sowrish juice, as well as their stalks, whereof chiefly the true _Rob Ribes_ is prepared, as I have seen it myself, and _Serapio_ testifieth. This loveth moist grounds, hath a strong brown colour’d root, which is pretty long, wrinkly, bended, and of a very unpleasant taste. On the height of the mount I saw more plants, some whereof I had not time to mind, and others that are not yet known, wherefore I omit, for shortness sake, to say more of them.

The mountain is very high, so that it may be seen in _Cyprus_ about 200 _Italian_ miles off; wherefore the day breaketh later at _Tripoli_, and, not until the morning sun appeareth before it: And moreover you find there snow all summer long, which they bring down from the mountains, into the Batzars or Exchanges to sell, to cool their drink with it, chiefly in the dog-days, and fling it in by handfuls. Yet when we were at the top, we could not see far about, being hindered by some hills.

After we were come down from the mountains into the little village again, our conductors brought us into a pleasant garden where their wives came to us, who brought to us several yet strange sorts of milk-meats to eat, and very good wine to drink; so we sat down in the grass according to their fashion, to eat and drink, and to make merry, and spoke to them in the common _Arabian_ country language, and what we could not speak out, we made them understand by signs. After we had dined, we return’d them many thanks, for all their kindnesses and good cheer, and so we went away. By the way we saw more plants, _viz._ the _Alyssum_ of _Dioscorides_; a delicate kind of _Cynoglossum_. And also near the stairs some wild Fir-trees, _Polium Montanum_, _Marrubium Creticum Lobelii_, as I judged according to it’s shape. A delicate yellow _Jacea_ with scaly heads, and prickles like unto the _Spina Solstitialis_, which is low, yet it hath a long and strong root, cover’d with a gray and hairy rind, like unto the _Victorialis_, the leaves are jagg’d or laciniated, of an ashen colour and hairy, as also the two before-mention’d; and another kind of _Jacea_, with purple colour’d flowers, which is very like unto the yellow one of _Lobelius_ (which I have also found in _Provence_ in _France_ near _Aix_) saving only the prickles that are about the heads. Just before we came quite down, I found two kinds of _Linaria_, one whereof, that is of a pretty bitter taste, puts forth long and slender stalks from the root, closely surrounded with a great number of _Linaria_ leaves, and hath at top one, two, or three long scaly heads, from whence issue small purple colour’d flowers; the other groweth also in leaves and stalks almost like unto the first, only they are smaller and tenderer, and hath quite to the top abundance of light and small purple colour’d flowers round about it as the blue one of our gardens. At length after a long travelling and climbing, we came just when the night broke in, down to the monastry again; after supper we went strait to rest, that we might be up early again to go for _Tripoli_. After break of the day when we had taken our leave of the Patriarch and his brethren, and made ourselves ready for our journey, we came strait away. By the way we saw several of _Arbores Judæ_, with their red colour’d husks; and also in the rock a fine _Gnaphalium_, with ash-colour’d roundish mouse-ear leaves, and snow white double flowers. As we went on, and were almost come to the house that stood upon the height, whereof we made mention before, these inhabitants came down again, got before us, stopt us, and would not let us pass until we had drank with them. Then we went on again, and I found in the deep and dark valley the right _Medium Dioscoridis_, and _Mindium Rhasis_, which I did spie immediately among the bushes, by it’s height and spacious purple colour’d flower. This plant is very like unto the _Viola Mariana_, of the learned _Rempert Dodonus_, very stately, so that no great difference can be found but only in the leaves, which in this are more carved, like unto those of _Plantain_, and in the flowers which are more open, and spread themselves with their long and narrow leaves, whereof each hath eight, into a round circle; the seeds I saw not because they were not yet ripe, yet I found a greater austerity in the root than in the seed vessels. Not far off, I also saw in the valley a strange plant, which was of the height of a cubit, and had whitish and wolly leaves, like unto our _Mullein_, only they are less, and grow quite to the stalk, as those of _Tabaco_, or of _Hyosciamus Peruvianus_ of _Rempert Dodon._, at the top thereof grow fine purple colour’d and white double flowers which stand close together, as those of the yellow _Amaranth_, or in the little _Auricula Muris_ of _Fuchsius_, so that according to all this, having also fragrant roots, and like unto those of black Hellebore, which broke, because I pull’d it up in haste, as I judged by that part thereof which still was left to them, I clearly take it to be the true _Baccharis_ of _Dioscor._ In the valley farther down towards the water, grew also the _Oleander_, and the _Apocynum Repens_, which climbeth upon the trees that stand nigh it, and covereth them so that it hangeth down again at the sides, like the _Ephedra_ of _Pliny_. After we came out before the mountain, there appeareth the _Italian Spondylium_, _Visnagia_, _&c._ there we went into the next village, and look’d after the victuals we had left, to refresh ourselves. When we came from thence I found the black _Chamælion_ with it’s handsome blue colour’d tops; _Origanum_, _Onites_, _Lycium_ call’d also _Zaroa_ by the inhabitants; the second _Acacia_ with trefoil leaves, and when we came near to _Tripoli_, to the old and high rivulet, between the mountains, I found the second _Tragoriganum_ of _Carol. Clusius_, _Ceterach_ and low St _John_’s _Wort_, a fine _Chamædrys_, &c. but above all, a thorn-bush, about the hight of a cubit, very thick of twigs and stalks, so that some of them lie on the ground; the stalks, whereof many grow out of a root of a drying quality, and somewhat bitter, are surrounded with a tender gray rind, underneath which is another reddish one to be found. It’s long tender leaves that grow one against the other, which are of the colour of ashes underneath, and green above, are very like unto the leaves of our _Sanguisorba_; between them at the top or the crown sprout out many thorns, the biggest whereof divide themselves at the top into other less ones in very good order, so that some point down, and some upwards, and others towards the sides, and some thereof sprout out farther before the rest, which sprout out early in the spring, and bear small greenish colour’d starry flowers; from underneath them grow out small soft berries of a whitish colour, and some reddish, which are so close together, and stand in their ranks, at the top whereof the flower is still plainly to be seen, like unto our currans. The seeds thereof I have raised in the famous garden of the generous and eminent _Hans Heinrich Herwarts_, Alderman of this place, very easily, and they grew up until they were ready to blow; but as other outlandish plants do seldom endure our climate, so did this also die the next winter; it is call’d by the inhabitants _Bellen_, but I am of opinion according to it’s shape, for of it’s virtue and use I can say nothing, because I never try’d it, that it is the _Hippophië_ of _Dioscor._ so long until others give me a better instruction. Not far from hence I found on the height, near to the town in a rough place, another fine plant, not unlike unto our _Gingidium_, only that it hath less fenil leaves and beareth a roundish seed, with many smooth wings hanging round about it, which close themselves almost into a knot together, with it’s tender leaves, which sprout out underneath the crown, like unto the black coriander; which induced me to inquire after it more narrowly what to call it, and being I found that it had a small white root, tender leaves, and a bitterer taste than our wild parsnip, and also in the middle of the crown a blewish knob, I cannot judge it but to be the true _Gingidium_ of _Dioscor._ From thence we soon went down the stairs again, and came by some _Turkish_ burying places, and some wild figg-trees, by them call’d _Mumeitz_, whereof a great many are growing in these grounds, into the town of _Tripoli_.

Soon after an honest and skilful _Botanist_ to whom I came to enquire after plants, told me that a great many more were to be found thereabouts. Wherefore I went out again to look for them, and to get them also. So I found first upon the height near the vineyards a _Cassia Monspeliensium_, which he call’d _Mackmudi_ and _Macmisi_, and the berries thereof _Habel Mickeness_. But whether this is to be taken for the _Avacsium Rhasis_, or no, I cannot certainly affirm. This is so common in these places that they make brooms of it’s twigs. Moreover I found in the vineyards another stately, fine and strange plant, which was about two cubits high, and had whitish, woolly, and long, sharp pointed leaves, which are set round with small prickles about the edges, and had on each side towards the stalk little ears, as our sorrel and spinage have; it is of a bitter taste, and at top thereof on long stalks grow many smooth hands which in their bigness and flowers are very like unto the yellow _Jacea_.

But that I may not be too tedious, it being not my intention to treat here of every one at length, I will mention but one more before I conclude, which I found just at the spouts where in rainy weather the water runs down from the mount _Libanus_; which is the true white _Beheen_ of the _Arabians_, and is still to this day call’d _Behmen-ahied_, as the red is call’d _Behmen-ackmar_, which also doth not stand far off, as my friend, that experienced Botanist, hath informed me. But because I was daily ready to go on ship board, to come home again, I had not time to obtain it; this was at that time almost decay’d, yet I found still some green leaves, about it, so that by all appearance it doth endure the winter, and so shoots out in new by degrees, which grow up yearly again instead of the old ones, these put forth long, great and pointed leaves, as big, sharp and as thick as a leaf of a pear-tree; they have partly underneath on the stalks four much less, which stand two and two against one another; and one also finds out a few of them on round stalks, many whereof grow out of the same root, about the height of a cubit, where the uppermost stick quite close to it, as you may see on the _Smyrnum Creticum_; on the top it puts forth oblong scaly yellow buttons, each of them on their peculiar stalk from whence issue flowers of the same colour; it hath a very long root, which at the top shoots out great branches, that grow so thick, that in time they may be separated and transplanted; but else they have but very few fibres, so that they rather are smooth, and also almost as tough and pliable as liquorish root, to which it is very like in it’s bigness and colour, only it is somewhat whiter, and not so strait. But why _Avicenna_ maketh mention also of it’s wrinckles, I am of opinion that he rather speaketh of the greater sort, which is more wrinkly and rougher, and also for above a span long, seem to be shrunk of age and turn’d woody, or decay’d and dry’d up, although within they are still juicy, limber, and have kept their natural colour. I was also inform’d of others, _viz._ of the _Costus Syriacus_, which they still know by the name of _Chast_, and is found about _Antiochia_: And not far off from thence is also found the _Nux vomica_ as some esteem them, by the inhabitants call’d _Cutschula_; which together with a great many other famous ones I might have obtained, if I could have had a true, faithful and experienced guide; but for want of such a one, and also because I could stay no longer, I was forced to leave them behind, to be hereafter found out by such that shall undertake the like journeys.

CHAP. XIII.

_Cunning and deceitful stratagems of the ~Grand Turk~ against the inhabitants of mount ~Libanus~, the ~Trusci~, and ~Maronites~: And how he made war with them, and what damage they sustained by it._