Part 19

After we had past the great and rough mountains, and were come into a very fruitful valley, which extendeth itself for a small days journey to _Orpha_, there appeared presently on each side several villages, and afterwards, the costly city against us with the castle situated on the hill, very pleasantly. Into this we got on the thirtieth at night very early, and went to lodge in the large and very well built camp, and staid there for 3 or 4 days. This town is very pleasant, pretty big with fortifications well provided. It was formerly, together with the whole country, belonging to the Kings of _Persia_, but now it is as well as the greatest part of the country, brought under the subjection of the _Turkish_ Emperor. _Orpha_ is a town of very good trade; they deal in tapestry of several sorts, some whereof are made there, and sent out to us; there is also a great deposition of merchandizes, which are brought thither from _Aleppo_, _Damascus_, _Constantinople_, and other places, to go to _Carahemit_, five days journey distant from hence, and so to be carried farther into _Media_, _Persia_, the _Indies_, _&c._ yet all these goods are brought thither in caravans by land, because there is no navigable river belonging to it. Some say that this town was anciently called _Haran_ and _Charras_, from whence the Patriarch _Abraham_ departed with his wife _Sarah_, and his brother’s son _Lot_, according to the command of God, _Gen._ chap. xii. and went forth to go into the land of _Canaan_ which the Lord had promised to give him, and there is a plentiful well still to this day called _Abraham_’s well, where the servant of _Abraham_, whom he sent into _Mesopotamia_ to the town of _Nahor_, to fetch a wife for his son _Isaac_, from his own kindred, did first see _Rebecca_, when she gave him and his camels some water to drink out of this well. And so did afterwards the Patriarch _Jacob_ when he fled from his brother _Esau_ at this same well, make himself known to _Rachel_ the daughter of _Laban_ his mother’s brother, when he removed the stone from the head of the well, and so let her sheep drink. The water of this fountain hath a more whitish troubledness than others. I have drunk of it several times out of the conduit that runs from thence into the middle of the great camp, and it hath a peculiar pleasantness, and a pleasant sweetness in it’s taste. To the same did also come the son of the pious _Tobias_, conducted by the angel _Raphael_, whom his father sent to _Rages_, now called _Edessa_, as is above-mentioned, to call in a debt from _Gabel_, as you may read in the 11th chapter of his book, when they returned by the way of _Haran_, which is half way to _Nineveh_.

After the _Jews_ had done their business there with good success, we went on in our travels again, and came again into the high and rough mountains, where we spent also the next day with great trouble and hardship, until we came again to the great river _Euphrates_ into the town _Bir_, whereof I have made mention before. And although we had no more but two half days journey to _Aleppo_, yet the _Jews_, my fellow travellers, had business in the famous town _Nisib_, which is situated on this side the river on the borders of the lesser _Armenia_, so that we were bound to go thither; so we put out again on the 6th of _February_ after their sabbath, and went through very fruitful and well cultivated corn fields to _Andeb_, towards evening. It is a pretty big town, but not very strong. It lieth on two small hills very pleasantly, so that you may see it plainly and distinctly, as soon as you come from out of the valley by the lake into the fields. Yet notwithstanding that it is so pleasantly situated, and looketh so stately at a distance, it is but pitifully built when you come within it. In former ages this town hath been several times besieged by the Kings of _Persia_, by whom it was taken at last, and kept so long, until the _Roman_ Emperor _Galienus Odenatus Palmyrenus_, took it from King _Sapor_, together with the town _Orpha_, and laid it to the _Roman_ empire again. But in these our times, to our grief, it is brought again, together with all the country, under the _Ottoman_ slavery. The inhabitants have very little trade, they live for the most part upon their estates, by cultivating their grounds, and chiefly from the fruits of vineyards and orchards, which are planted with pomegranates and figs, _&c._ so thick (that from the great quantity of trees they may have the more fruit) that you would at a distance, rather take them to be woods of wild trees, than of fruitful ones. So they send yearly many sorts of fruits, but chiefly _Cibebs_, into the eastern countries, by great caravans, whereof I have met many. After we had staid here, and I had lost a whole day, for their business sake, we broke up again directly for _Aleppo_, and having passed for several miles through rough, bad, hilly ways, we came at length into a plain, delicate and fruitful country, so fruitful of wine and corn, that on all my journey I have seen none like unto it. This did almost extend itself to _Aleppo_, where we arrived early, with the help of the Almighty God, in very good health, on the 10th day of _February_. At my arrival, because my comrade _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, with the rest, were not there, then present, presently some _French_ Merchants, which I had cured of several distempers before my departure, came to me, and carried me home with him, desiring me to live with them until my business, which caused me to come back, were done, wherein really they did me a very great kindness. For I having very well torn my cloaths, which never came from my back in half a year’s time, I had there an opportunity to rest myself and to procure myself some new ones. _I thank the Almighty God for his many mercies and favours bestowed on me, and the assistance he graciously afforded me in this voyage, returning him praise, honour and glory, ~&c.~_

CHAP. XI.

_Of the ~Turkish~ Physicians and Apothecaries; of my comrade ~Hans Ulrich Krafft~ of ~Ulm~’s hard Imprisonment. Of the great danger that I was in, in the towns of ~Aleppo~ and ~Tripoli~. Of the murdering of some Merchants, and what else did happen when I was there._

At my return to _Aleppo_, where my business obliged me to stay a while, I came to understand, that during my absence, several _Italians_ and _French-men_ were in their sickness but very slightly served by the _Jews_ their Physicians; wherefore I did not only soon recover my former acquaintance and practice by them, but might have also stept into great business with the _Turks_; for I was presently so well known, that I had much to do to excuse my self with discretion to get off of them, that I might escape their anger and displeasure, which I must have got, if I had served them never so faithfully, which I knew several had before me found by experience. Wherefore at the instance of several good friends, I only cured two great persons, whereof one was a _Georgian_, and at that time _Sangiack_ of _Jerusalem_, which were very well pleased with me, and requited me accordingly. The Physicians generally in these parts, agree before hand for the cure with their patients for a certainty, according to the condition of the patient and his distemper, and have security for their money, but yet it is not paid to them before the patient is cured. They have a great many Physicians, but they are very unskilful, chiefly the _Turks_, which know none but their own language, and so cannot read the authors of Physick that have writ in another language as the _Jews_ can. But seeing that the _Jews_ are very much addicted to covetousness, they endeavour rather to promote their own interest than that of their patients; so that the _Turks_ are but slightly provided with Physicians, and therefore rather die like flies, than take advice of their Physicians, chiefly of the _Jews_, which are not contented with a small reward; to this add also that the _Turks_ never put any confidence in the _Jews_, and esteem their counsel but little; and besides, they believe that God hath already pre-ordained every one his death, so that he that is born to be drown’d cannot be hang’d. And besides all this, the _Jews_ do not stick close to them in time of necessity, but fly presently, and first of all in time of sickness (which certainly happens once in seven years, if not in five or sooner) just like hirelings, as they have sufficiently experienced in the last plague in the year 72, with the loss of several persons of worth and quality; chiefly among the rest a _Turkish_ Pay-Master, by them called _Daftedar_, and another eminent _Turk_, and their own sons, which both of them (although this proferr’d to lay 3000 duckets, and the other 10000 into the hands of a third person) yet were neglected and left by their Physicians and died. It is very much in use among them, that if any body doth find himself not well, another puts his arms cross before him, and so graspeth him about his back, and lifteth him up, and sets him down again, and shaketh him several times, just as they use to do sacks with corn, to make them lie the closer, and to hold the more. As the Physicians are, so are also the Apothecaries, where you find nothing of any great compositions, nor purging electuaries, as _Elect. Diacatholicon_, _Diaphœnicon_, _&c._ although they have the best ingredients thereof, for we have them all sent from them, except they be sent to them from _Marseilles_ or _Venice_, _&c._ If you have occasion for any herbs, roots, or seeds, _&c._ you must go yourself, not without great trouble and loss of time, and find them either in the fields, or else at the Grocers and other shop-keepers. Among the rest of the things they had, I soon knew the Rob Ribes by it’s antient name and pleasent sourish taste, whereof they make a great quantity in this place, and send it farther into other countries, but chiefly to the _Turkish_ Emperor; wherefore in the _Easter_ week they had already gathered several sacks full of the stalks of the true Ribes of the _Arabians_, (which are hairy almost, two foot long, and of the thickness of an inch, of a greenish colour, and underneath, as also _Serapio_ mentioneth, reddish) from the mount _Libanus_, and brought it to the _Cadi_ to make _Rob_ of it for him. I saw them lie in his court-yard, and several of them were given me to taste, and to take away with me. What herbs I found at my return else, because there are but a few of them, therefore I have put them among the rest here above in a peculiar chapter. I saw there several strange birds, and among others, some of a delicate green and blue colour, which were about the bigness of our nut-crackers, by them called _Sucuruck_, and by others _Alsecrach_. I also found their _Alhabari_, which are not unlike our Peacocks, and almost as big, and could not fly much. Of four footed beasts, I saw several, and among them some civet cats, which were brought thither in caravans from remote parts, and the _Indies_. In the _Fundique_ of the Consul of the _Venetians_, I saw a very sharp sighted one like unto a _Lynx_, exactly of the shape of a cat, so that it was not easily distinguished from it, save only in it’s bigness, for it is much higher and slimmer. This is a very wild and fierce beast, so that his keeper himself was afraid of it. It once got loose, and got through the yard below into an Apothecaries shop, wherein he had just then put a great many glasses that were sent him from _Venice_, whereof it broke the greatest part before it could be taken again. When I was there, a young _Rhinoceros_ was carried through the town to _Constantinople_. It came from the most eastern parts, and had killed above 20 men before they could take it. They also lead daily some Lions about the town in small chains, which have small bells before, that every body may take the sooner notice of them; they are so tame, that their keepers sometimes wrestle with them in open places, neither do they easily grow wild, except they should see sheep, then their keepers have enough to do to keep them off and to appease them. Without in the fields in high and bushy places, are sometimes found Camelions, which are somewhat bigger than our green Lizards, but a great deal leaner and higher upon their legs; they walk very slowly and lazily, they live a great while without meat like the Serpents, and are a very ugly creature. If we put it upon a coloured, red, yellow, or black cloth, it hath by degrees changed it’s natural green colour into the same that the cloth was of.

Having ended my business I had, and in the mean time received a letter from my comrades that were at _Tripoli_, I parted from thence according to their desire, and came on the 5th of _May_, _Anno 75_, to them in _Tripoli_. After some days, arrived also with some goods, one of their chiefest Carriers, which they call Mockeri, which swore to me by his head, that is, he affirmed upon his faith and reputation, that the Sub-Bashaw of _Aleppo_, when he was departing from thence, had sent his Bailiffs to my lodging to apprehend me, and to fling me into the publick _Turkish_ gaol, because they were very well assured that when I was on the hills (where they had seen me look for plants) I had observed the situation of the town, and all the country very diligently, that I might, when I should have an opportunity, betray them to their enemies, and shew them the best way to take it. But all this was contrived that they might have an opportunity to take an _Avaria_ on me, as the Merchants call it there in these countries, that is to say, they would accuse me falsly to make me punishable, that they might get a sum of money out of me. And the Carrier also really believed, for as much as he heard of them, that they would not have let me come off for less than 200 _Saraffi_ or ducats, one whereof maketh two of their gilders. _Thanks be to our Lord God, who hath delivered me from their unjust accusations and contrivances, and brought me safe to this place._ At my arrival at _Tripoli_, when I expected to live securely and quietly, and thought that I was passed all danger, I fell, notwithstanding all this into another; for when my comrades, and with them also _Hans Ulrich Krafft_ (yet without any transgression) were flung into the _Turkish_ gaol, by the contrivances of some _Turks_, the same rogues had also a mind to contrive something against me, to bring me in also. But the _French_ Vice-Consul, _Andrew Bianchi_, who was my very good patron, took my part, insomuch that he did recover my liberty by the _Turks_, in spite of my accusers, and not only got me licence to walk freely without molestation in and about the city where-ever I pleased, but did also procure me a free and safe access to my comrades, to see them in prison as often as I pleased. Into the prison wherein they were kept, I must always go through three small and low doors, which the keepers did always very freely and without any grumbling open unto me, to go in or out, and sometimes I have staid there all night with them. I was always in very great hopes that God Almighty would have ordered it so, that their adversaries might have agreed with them, so that I and my dear friend, whom I loved as my own brother, _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, might have been returned home again with joy. But it pleased God to order it otherways, for the differences grew the longer the more difficult, and were so long produced, that these young gentlemen, particularly _Hans Ulrich_, was kept there in this hard imprisonment very near three years. To tell all that he suffered and indured there, would be too long here; only this I cannot omit to tell you, that he did endure and conquer all these troubles and adversities (as I did see myself) with such a courage, patience and good conduct, that notwithstanding all these, although he was almost left quite comfortless, he was rather fit to comfort others than to be comforted. When I went thus in and out to them, I observed very well that the _Turks_ have very great compassion on poor distressed prisoners, and are very free to give them alms; and a man used to come in daily with bread or boiled meat, as rice, and other sorts of boiled corn, chiefly on feast days after the afternoons lecture was over, and when he distributed them, he did also always as he went by, fling in for each of them a little loaf (very like unto them they bake in lent in our country) into their apartment before them upon the ground, wherewith they must make shift, except they could live on their own means, or get something by their hand labour, whereof there was a good many that did, to maintain themselves. These alms, the _Turks_ give rather freely, without being ask’d for it, for they believe that God is better pleased with that which they give freely, than that which is begged of them. Wherefore they have very few or no beggars in their towns, which beg alms as they do in our country. During my stay at _Tripoli_, I did at the request of the Consul, live in his Fundique, who entertained me very honourably, that I might give attendance; and if any of the Merchants or Seamen should happen to be sick, I might use my best endeavour to cure them. So I did in the space of three months cure only in our Fundique, above forty men of all sorts of distempers, _viz._ malignant fevers, violent gripings of the guts, _&c._ which generally befell them that were lately arrived, and were not yet acquainted with the air and diet of the country. There happened in these days, a miserable cruel case, that some (among whom were five _Italians_ and one _Frenchman_) did arrive at _Tripoli_, which made themselves soon ready to go from thence farther to _Aleppo_, with their merchandizes to sell there. Upon the road they left their caravan too far behind them, and met with some horsemen which spoke to them, and desired them that they would halt at the command of their master the Sub-Bashaw, and dismount, and go into the next camp (which I found very desolate and ruined when I went by formerly) to stay there until he came to them, which would not be long, for he had something to say to them; the Merchants obeyed them readily, fearing that if they should not, they would be punished severely by the Sub-Bashaw for their disobedience. After they were gone into the camp, the murderers immediately fell upon them, shooting and striking at them, until they killed them all at last, then they buried them in the ground, mounted their horses and rode away. After these murderers thought they were very secure, one of these rogues, which were said to be _Arabians_, met one of the Mockeri, or Carriers, of the same caravan, he knew the horse immediately, and perceiving it to be bloody, his heart gave him that it was not right, wherefore he made haste up to him, and thrust his bended bayonet into his side, and took him prisoner, and carried him to _Aleppo_, where he was, as I did hear afterwards, having confessed the fact when he was upon the torture, executed for it. They did also seek for the rest, but did apprehend none of them in the time of my staying. The Sultan else taketh great care to keep the roads safe and free from highwaymen, that trading may go on without hindrance. Yet sometimes there are some of the great ones, and men of note, that put others upon it for gain’s sake, so that one must be very careful in these countries. It is not long ago when we had news, that not far off the Christians had taken some ships from the _Turks_ and carried them off, and also formerly in the beginning of _July_ of the last year, they lost some more, and as, I am informed, among them were four great ones, three fly-boats, and two other that were taken by six gallies of the Christians, which made the _Turks_ mightily discontented; wherefore the Emperor sends out many gallies into several places, chiefly to _Rhodes_, to cross the seas up and down to keep them clear from pirates, and to hinder them from making incursions or descents upon him. These come sometimes into this port, but our Merchants and the Masters of our ships do not care for their arrival, for they are forced to present them with cloths, woollen cloaths, money, _&c._ if they will remain in favour with them.

CHAP. XII.

_Of the large and high mount of ~Libanus~, it’s inhabitants and strange plants that are found there._

When I staid with the Consul at _Tripoli_, and had not a few of his in cure in his Fundique, some others of other nations did sometimes between whiles desire my assistance and advice, and among the rest an eminent Patriarch of the _Maronites_, which reckon themselves to be Christians, and are called so from the heretick _Maro_ to this day. This did live in the mount of _Libanus_, and was carried down, although he had a whole day’s journey to _Tripoli_, and was afflicted with that painful distemper the gout very severely, to be cured by me. After some days, when he was pretty well recovered again, so that he intended to return home; he spoke to some of us in our Fundique, that we would be pleased to conduct him up the hill home again; which was agreed unto very readily, considering that this mountain is the most famous in all the country of _Syria_, whereof the holy Scripture maketh several times mention, speaking of it’s great heighth and famous rivers (of which _Jordan_ is one), of it’s sweet smelling plants, and pleasantly tasted fruits; and also because there is a great many strange plants to be found. So we rode along with the Patriarch (who had no little reason to be afraid of the _Turks_ clandestine assault) with all possible diligence, and came immediately from the town upon the heights of the promontories of the mount _Libanus_, which were very fruitful at the top, and had many pleasant plain fields, which extended themselves for three leagues to the high mount, so that this was a very pleasant road, where we saw sometimes on one side delicate vineyards, then on the other, fruitful fields sowed with barley, white _Indian_ millet, _&c._ After this we came to pleasant woods, where sweet singing birds let themselves be heard, and recreated us; sometimes we saw some hares and some deer, so that we could not but fancy that we went through thick and dark woods. When we came out of them, and were very near unto the mountain, there lay some small villages before it, and we went to one of them, and very near unto it, in a green shady place, we sat down, and refreshed our selves with some victuals, which we had taken along with us before we began to go up the mountain.