Mount Rainier, a Record of Exploration
Volume II, Number 4 (December, 1905). They are reproduced
with the consent of the editor of The Mazama, and Professor Piper has revised and amplified them for this purpose.
Up to an elevation of 4,000 feet or more the flanks of Mount Rainier are clothed in a continuous belt of somber forest, broken only where glaciers and their nascent streams have hewn pathways, or where, alas, fire has left desolate slopes marked here and there by the whitened, weather-worn shaft of some old tree, a dreary monument to its destroyed fellows. This forest is composed in its lower reaches largely of Douglas spruce. Scattered through it in smaller quantities one finds Lovely fir, Western white pine, Western hemlock, a few Engelmann spruces, and on the stream banks cedar and yew, and now and then a little cottonwood.
At about the 3,500-foot level the character of the forest changes. The Western hemlock gives way to the larger-coned Black hemlock; the Douglas spruce and Lovely fir are replaced by the Noble fir; and the ragged-barked Alaska cedar greets the eye. Another thousand feet and the Subalpine fir replaces its two near relatives. From this point upward, the forest, now composed only of Black hemlock, Alaska cedar and Subalpine fir, to which in some places the White-bark pine must be added, is confined largely to the crests of ridges and straggles up the mountain in irregular broken lines. Between these timbered ridges extensive grassy slopes appear, veritable flower gardens when in their glory.
At 6,500 feet elevation the timber ceases to be. Scraggly prostrate firs and hemlocks, sprawling as it were on the earth for shelter, mark sharply the limit of their endurance. Here, too, the continuous carpet of grass and flowers ceases--and a soil of volcanic sand or powdered pumice supports a very different vegetation. At 10,000 feet the toughest mountaineer of all the flowering plants, _Smelowskia ovalis_, still appears. Far above this, however, even to the crater's rim, lichens trace their hieroglyphics on the rocks; and on the steam-warmed rocks of the crater two mosses find lodgment, _Hypnum elegans_ Hooker?, and _Philonotis fontana_ Bridel, the latter even in fruit.
Few plants grow in the dense shades of the lower forests, and these are mainly ericaceous. Most plentiful are _Vaccinium ovalifolium_, _V. macrophyllum_, _Gaultheria ovatifolia_, _Menziesia ferruginea_, _Pachystima myrsinites_, _Cornus canadensis_ and _Clintonia uniflora_. Here, too, occur several weird-looking whitish or reddish saprophytes, _Monotropa hypopitys_, _Pterospora andromedea_, and _Corallorhiza mertensiana_.
On the drier portions of the grassy slopes _Lupinus subalpinus_, _Castilleja oreopola_, _Potentilla flabellifolia_, _Pulsatilla occidentalis_, _Erigeron salsuginosus_, _Polygonum bistortoides_, _Phyllodoce empetriformis_, _Cassiope mertensiana_ and _Vaccinium deliciosum_ are the most attractive plants. Where the ground is springy _Veratrum viride_ occurs in great clumps and _Dodecatheon jeffreyi_, _Caltha leptosepala_ and _Ranunculus suksdorfii_ are plentiful.
In the shelter of the Alpine trees _Rhododendron albiflorum_, _Ribes howellii_ and _Arnica latifolia_ flourish. Along the rills _Gentiana calycosa_, _Arnica chamissonis_ and _Mimulus lewisii_ form banks of color. On the cliffs _Chelone nemorosa_, _Spiraea densiflora_, _Polemonium humile_ and _Castilleja rupicola_ are perhaps most conspicuous.
Above the limit of trees, in what have been called "pumice fields," a characteristic series of plants appears. This belt ranges in altitude from 6,500 to 10,000 feet. It is best developed on the east side of the mountain, where the avalanches from Little Tahoma have covered great areas with more or less finely divided basalt. Conspicuous plants of this region are _Lupinus lyallii_, _Spraguea multiceps_, _Polemonium elegans_, _Hulsea nana_, _Erigeron aureus_, _Oreostemma alpigena_, _Polygonum newberryi_, _Poa suksdorfii_, _Draba aureola_ and _Smelowskia ovalis_. The last three ascend to above Camp Muir, altitude 10,000 feet.
The first botanist to visit Mount Rainier was Dr. William F. Tolmie, surgeon of the Hudson's Bay Company, who reached the mountain in 1833. He made considerable collections, which were sent to Sir William Hooker. Among Tolmie's plants were several not previously known.
The writer collected on the mountain in 1888 and again in 1889 and 1895. Since then the following botanists have made collections on Mount Rainier: Rev. E. C. Smith, in 1889 and 1890; Dr. E. L. Greene, in 1889; Mr. J. B. Flett in 1895, 1896 and since; Mr. M. W. Gorman in 1897; and Mr. O. D. Allen from 1895 to about 1905.
Most of the work done thus far has been in Paradise Park and its immediate vicinity. Next to this, the flora of Spray Park is best known. The east slopes of the peak have been partially explored, but to the knowledge of the writer no botanist has ever yet collected on the west slopes.
The list of plants here given numbers 315 species. In preparing it, Longmire Springs, altitude 2,850 feet, has been selected as the lowermost limit on the south side of the mountain, and Crater Lake, altitude about 3,500 feet, as the limit on the north side. It is quite certain that a considerable number of lowland plants will have to be added to the list here given, and it is possible that a few have been included that will have to be dropped, as the exact place of collection of some species is not clearly indicated on the labels of the specimens. Unless otherwise stated, the notes are based on the writer's observations and specimens, and refer mainly to the Paradise Park region.
There yet remains much to be done in the study of the Mount Rainier flora. A particularly interesting phase of it lies in the matter of altitudinal distribution of the various species.
No attempt is here made to list the plants lower than the ferns. The writer has made considerable collections of the fungi, liverworts and mosses; and Mr. O. D. Allen has also collected the mosses. These plants should receive a larger amount of attention from botanists who visit the mountain in the future.
The following plants were first described from specimens obtained on Mount Rainier:
=Petasites nivalis= Greene. =Luina piperi= Robinson. =Prenanthes stricta= Greene. =Oreostemma alpigena= (Torrey & Gray) Greene. =Aster amplifolius= Greene. =Arnica aspera= Greene. =Castilleja rupicola= Piper. =Mimulus caespitosus= Greene. =Veronica allenii= Greenman. =Pedicularis ornithorhyncha= Bentham. =Pedicularis contorta= Bentham. =Pentstemon tolmiei= Hooker. =Pentstemon newberryi rupicola= Piper. =Gentiana calycosa= Grisebach. =Gentiana calycosa stricta= Grisebach. =Hydrophyllum congestum= Wiegand. =Polemonium elegans= Greene. =Polemonium bicolor= Greenman. =Dodecatheon crenatum= Greene. =Vaccinium deliciosum= Piper. =Ligusticum purpureum= Coulter & Rose. =Hesperogenia stricklandi= Coulter & Rose. =Lupinus volcanicus= Greene. =Stellaria washingtoniana= Robinson. =Potentilla flabellifolia= Hooker. =Luzula arcuata major= Hooker. =Sitanion rigidum= J. G. Smith. =Sitanion rubescens= Piper. =Poa saxatilis= Scribner & Williams.
The type specimens of _Saxifraga tolmiei_ were collected by Tolmie on the "N. W. Coast." It is altogether probable that he got them on Mount Rainier, where the plant is so abundant.
LIST OF SPECIES
=COMPOSITAE.= (Aster Family.)
=Scorzonella borealis= (Bongard) Greene.
A plant much resembling a dandelion, occurring on the north side of the mountain.
=Troximon alpestre= Gray.
A plant much resembling the dandelion, frequent on the grassy slopes at 5,500 feet altitude.
=Troximon aurantiacum= Hooker.
This species has entire mostly basal leaves, and bears a single head of orange or purple flowers. Common at 5,000 to 6,000 feet.
=Troximon glaucum asperum= (Rydberg) Piper. (_Agoseris leontodon asperum_ Rydberg.)
A species with large lemon-yellow flowers and hoary pubescent leaves. It occurs in the pumice and lava at 7,500 feet altitude and is quite abundant near the base of Little Tahoma.
=Hieracium albiflorum= Hooker.
A tall plant with hairy entire leaves and a rather ample corymb of white flowers. Essentially a lowland plant, but occurring up to 5,500 feet altitude, especially in burnt ground.
=Hieracium gracile= Hooker.
A small hawkweed with yellow flowers in black hairy involucres. A common plant at 5,500 to 6,500 feet altitude.
=Cirsium edule= Nuttall.
Plentiful on the ridges of Moraine Park at the limit of trees. Also reported by Gorman as occurring in open woods near the timber line in Cowlitz canyon. This thistle is abundant at the sea level, and the roots were formerly a favorite food of the Indians.
=Saussurea americana= D. C. Eaton.
A peculiar plant with leafy stems, two to four feet high, bearing a dense cluster of elongate rayless heads of purple flowers. Found only on the high ridge north of the foot of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Senecio ochraceus= Piper.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 230.
=Senecio triangularis= Hooker.
A tall species with triangular coarsely dentate leaves and numerous rather small heads of yellow flowers. Abundant in the marsh at Longmire Springs and in wet places on the mountain slopes up to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Senecio ductoris= Piper.
A low species with thickish crenate leaves and deep yellow heads. Found only on the moraine on the south side of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Senecio flettii= Wiegand.
Found near Cowlitz Chimneys by Miss Winona Bailey, in 1915; previously known only from the Olympic Mountains.
=Arnica latifolia= Bongard.
A smooth cordate leaved plant with one to five heads, resembling small sunflowers. Not uncommon up to 6,000 feet altitude, especially in the shelter of timber.
=Arnica mollis= Hooker.
Similar to the preceding, but the leaves oblong, nearly entire, and viscid glandular. Abundant along the rivulets, 4,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Arnica aspera= Greene.
Described from specimens collected in Spray Park. It is very similar to _A. mollis_ Hooker, but the pubescence is coarser.
=Arnica eradiata= (Gray) Heller.
Closely related to the preceding but easily recognized by its rayless heads. It occurs on the steep slopes above Sluiskin Falls.
=Luina hypoleuca= Bentham.
A beautiful suffruticose plant, six to twelve inches high, with entire oval leaves shining green above and white tomentose beneath. It was originally discovered by Dr. Lyall, of the International Boundary Survey, in the Cascade Mountains at the 49th parallel. It is not uncommon about Mount Rainier, occurring on perpendicular cliffs along the Cowlitz Glacier; in similar places on the banks of the Nisqually at Longmire Springs; and on the gravel bars of the same river. The flowers are cream-colored.
=Rainiera stricta= Greene. (_Prenanthes stricta_ Greene.) (_Luina piperi_ Robinson.) (_Luina stricta_ Robinson.)
A tall plant with large oblong entire leaves and a long raceme of yellowish, rayless heads. Professor Greene makes it the type of a new genus _Rainiera_, while Dr. Robinson refers it to _Luina_. The plant has been collected in Spray Park by Professor Greene; on the Goat Mountains, Allen; near Mount Adams, Henderson; head of Naches River, Vasey; and on the high ridge northeast of the foot of Cowlitz Glacier by the writer. The statement that the plant has milky juice is an error.
=Petasites speciosa= (Nuttall) Piper. (_Nardosmia speciosa_ Nuttall.)
Abundant along streams up to 3,000 feet altitude. Easily recognized by its large palmate leaves, which frequently measure a foot or more in diameter. The flowers appear very early in spring with the leaves and have an odor suggesting violets. This species is clearly distinct from the Eastern _P. palmata_ (Aiton) Gray and was long ago well characterized by Nuttall.
=Petasites frigida= (Linnaeus) Fries. (_Petasites nivalis_ Greene).
Common along rivulets 4,000 to 5,000 feet altitude. Resembling the preceding species, but much smaller and with quite different leaves.
=Achillea lanulosa= Nuttall.
An Alpine form of the common Western yarrow. Not rare in the decayed lava at 6,000 to 7,000 feet altitude.
=Hulsea nana= Gray.
A sticky plant with pinnatifid leaves and large yellow heads. Plentiful on the east side of the mountain near the base of Little Tahoma in the pumice fields. This seems to be the northernmost limit of the plant.
=Anaphalis margaritacea occidentalis= Greene.
The well-known "Everlasting Flower," which occurs in dry or burnt woods up to 4,000 feet altitude.
=Antennaria media= Greene.
A small depressed cudweed, only an inch or two high. Common at 6,000 feet altitude.
=Antennaria lanata= (Hooker) Greene.
Like the preceding but larger and more hairy. Grassy slopes at 6,000 feet. Common.
=Antennaria racemosa= Hooker.
Collected by Allen in the "upper valley of the Nisqually." A much larger and greener plant than the preceding species.
=Erigeron salsuginosus= (Richardson) Gray.
The common pink aster or "daisy" of the grassy slopes. One of the most conspicuous plants at 4,000 to 6,000 feet altitude, but even ascending to 7,000 feet in a much dwarfed form.
=Erigeron acris debilis= Gray.
An insignificant white-flowered species, rare at about 7,500 feet altitude.
=Erigeron compositus trifidus= (Hooker) Gray.
A small pinkish aster, with the leaves cut into linear lobes. Growing in decayed lava at 7,500 feet altitude.
=Erigeron speciosus= De Candolle.
A handsome species with entire ciliate leaves and rather numerous heads, with deep violet rays. Collected by Allen in the Goat Mountains, No. 222.
=Erigeron aureus= Greene. (_Aplopappus brandegei_ Gray.)
A beautiful little aster with bright golden rays, the solitary heads on scapes two or three inches tall. Abundant in the pumice, 7,500-8,000 feet altitude.
=Aster ledophyllus= Gray.
A tall species with leafy stems, and numerous middle-sized heads with pink-purple rays. The leaves are entire, pubescent on the under side. Not uncommon on the grassy slopes at 5,000 feet altitude.
=Aster foliaceus frondeus= Gray. (_Aster amplifolius_ Greene.)
A species with broad half-clasping leaves and deep-violet-colored rays. Professor Greene's type came from Mount Rainier, but his species seems not to differ from the plant earlier described by Dr. Gray.
=Oreostemma alpigena= (Torrey & Gray) Greene. (_Aster pulchellus_ D. C. Eaton.)
A low plant with narrow tufted leaves, the scapes bearing one or rarely two large heads. The rays are deep violet. The plant is common in the pumice fields at 7,000-8,000 feet altitude, but, strange to say, also occurs on the borders of small lakes at the foot of Pinnacle Peak at 4,500 feet elevation. In exposed places at high altitudes the leaves are often curiously twisted. It was originally described from the specimen collected on Mount Rainier by Tolmie.
=Solidago algida= Piper.
A small goldenrod, two to twelve inches tall, occurring ordinarily on the faces of perpendicular cliffs at 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Artemisia borealis wormskioldii= Besser.
A silky canescent wormwood about one foot high, its leaves pinnate; found on the north side of the mountain by Flett.
=Artemisia richardsoniana= Besser.
In the Synoptical Flora, Vol. II, p. 371, this species is stated to have been collected on Mount Rainier by Tolmie. On the sheet in the Gray Herbarium Dr. Gray has indicated that this is an error, the specimens having really been collected in the Rocky Mountains by Burke.
=CAMPANULACEAE.= (Bellflower Family.)
=Campanula rotundifolia= Linnaeus.
This charming and familiar blue bell is abundant on the cliffs near the foot of Cowlitz Glacier.
=VALERIANACEAE.= (Valerian Family.)
=Valeriana sitchensis= Bongard.
An abundant plant at 4,000 to 6,000 feet altitude. The leaves are pinnately compound, the rather large leaflets repandly dentate. The flowers are whitish, usually pink tinged. Like other species, this valerian has a decidedly unpleasant odor, that is difficult to compare with any other. To the writer the odor is always associated with mountain meadows, doubtless because it so frequently predominates in such places.
=RUBIACEAE.= (Madder Family.)
=Galium triflorum= Michaux.
A very common species of bedstraw which ascends on the lower slopes of the mountain.
=Galium oreganum= Britton.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 296.
=SCROPHULARIACEAE.= (Figwort Family.)
=Chelone nemorosa= Douglas.
A handsome plant with opposite serrate leaves and corymbs of purple-red flowers somewhat like those of the foxglove. Dry cliffs and slopes at 5,000 feet altitude. Also reported by Gorman as occurring at Longmire Springs.
=Pentstemon confertus= Douglas.
A species with entire leaves and dense clusters of small pale yellow flowers. In its typical form the species is one to two feet tall, but on Mount Rainier, where it occurs at from 7,000 to 8,000 feet elevation, it is reduced to two to four inches high, but otherwise not differing from the type.
=Pentstemon procerus= Douglas.
Like the above, but blue flowered. It occurs at 8,000 feet and on Rainier is scarcely two inches tall, while at lower altitudes it is frequently as many feet high. This dwarf Alpine form has been described by Professor Greene as a new species under the name of _Pentstemon pulchellus_. It is an interesting fact that Tolmie long ago collected on Mount Rainier a dwarf species which Hooker named _Pentstemon tolmiei_. But alas, the specimens are in fruit, and it is past finding out now whether his plant was the yellow-flowered or the blue-flowered form. Most likely, however, it was the latter, as that is far more frequent than the yellow-flowered form.
=Pentstemon diffusus= Douglas.
A handsome species with serrate leaves and blue-purple flowers. Mount Rainier, Piper 2068. Goat Mountains, Allen 129.
=Pentstemon ovatus= Douglas.
Much like the preceding plant, differing essentially in the anthers. Collected by Allen "mountains near the upper valley of the Nisqually," and by the writer on the slopes of Mount Rainier.
=Pentstemon menziesii= Hooker.
A dwarf prostrate plant with thickish evergreen toothed leaves and dull purple flowers, abundant on the rocks at 8,000 feet elevation. A variety with the leaves entire instead of denticulate, _P. davidsonii_ Greene, also occurs on the mountain.
=Pentstemon rupicola= (Piper) Howell.
Much like the preceding, but with glaucous leaves and rose-colored larger flowers. The writer found it originally on the perpendicular cliffs, at the limit of trees above "Camp of the Clouds."
=Collinsia tenella= (Pursh) Piper.
Collected by Flett on an old moraine along the Carbon Glacier.
=Mimulus lewisii= Pursh.
Abundant along rills, 4,000 to 5,000 feet altitude. Easily known by its opposite dentate leaves, viscid pubescence and rose-purple corollas. The original specimens were collected in Idaho by the Lewis and Clark expedition.
=Mimulus breweri= (Greene) Rydberg. (_Eunanus breweri_ Greene.)
A minute species with pale purple flowers, abundant on dry cliffs near "Camp of the Clouds."
=Mimulus alpinus= (Gray) Piper. (_M. luteus alpinus_ Gray.) (_M. scouleri caespitosus_ Greene.)
A dwarf plant with matted stolons, the bright yellow flowers painting the cliffs wherever there is dripping water. The Mount Rainier plants match closely the original types collected by Dr. Parry in Wyoming, so that Professor Greene's name is clearly a synonym of the earlier one of Gray.
=Veronica alpina= Linnaeus.
A small plant two or three inches high, with several pairs of small, ovate, pubescent leaves, and a terminal raceme of small blue flowers. Common at 4,500 to 5,500 feet altitude.
=Veronica cusickii= Gray.
A very similar plant to the above, but with larger blue flowers and smooth leaves. Abundant just above "Camp of the Clouds."
=Veronica allenii= Greenman.
Much like the preceding species, but with smaller white flowers. A new species discovered by Allen "near Paradise River at 5,400 feet elevation."
=Castilleja miniata= Douglas.
This vivid scarlet "Painted Cup" or "Indian Pink" is easily known by its entire leaves. Not infrequent at 5,000 to 6,000 feet; also occurring at lower altitudes down to sea-level.
=Castilleja angustifolia hispida= (Bentham) Fernald.
Very similar to the last, but the flower spikes shorter and the leaves cut-lobed. Bear Prairie, Allen.
=Castilleja rupicola= Piper.
Like the last, but smaller, the leaves usually purplish and deeply cut, the flowers intensely scarlet and with very long beaks. On the cliffs on both sides of Sluiskin Falls, whence the original specimens were obtained.
=Castilleja oreopola= Greenman.
The common species of the grassy slopes, the flowers reddish-purple or occasionally white.
=Pedicularis bracteosa= Bentham.
A tall "lousewort," with fern-like leaves and a long terminal spike of greenish-white flowers. Frequent in wet places up to 5,500 feet altitude.
=Pedicularis contorta= Douglas.
A yellow-flowered species not rare at 7,000 feet elevation along the Nisqually Glacier. First found by Tolmie on Mount Rainier.
=Pedicularis surrecta= Bentham.
The reddish flowers with long, coiled beaks easily distinguish this plant. Common in wet meadows at 4,000 feet altitude.
=Pedicularis ornithorhyncha= Bentham.
Much like the preceding but with beakless flowers. Originally described from Mount Rainier specimens collected by Tolmie in 1833, and not again seen until the writer collected them in the same place in 1888. The plant has since been found at two or three places north of Mount Rainier, but all in Washington.
=Pedicularis racemosa= Douglas.
The commonest species, easily known by its half prostrate habit, lanceolate leaves, and short clusters of white or pinkish twisted flowers. Ranges from 3,000 to 5,000 feet elevation.
=PINGUICULACEAE.= (Butterwort Family.)
=Pinguicula vulgaris= Linnaeus.
The butterwort, with its greasy entire leaves in a rosette and solitary violet flowers is not rare on moist cliffs.
=LABIATAE.= (Mint Family.)
=Madronella discolor= Greene.
A very sweet-smelling plant, the only mint as yet found on the mountain. Occurs on the talus of the high cliffs on the north side of Cowlitz Glacier.
=BORAGINACEAE.= (Borage Family.)
=Mertensia laevigata= Piper.
A handsome branched herb, two feet high or more. The large entire leaves and the cluster of small blue tubular flowers make it readily recognizable. Frequent at 4,000 to 5,000 feet altitude.
=Cryptantha muriculata= (A. De Candolle) Greene.
Goat Mountains, Flett; a small common lowland plant with white flowers.
=HYDROPHYLLACEAE.= (Waterleaf Family.)
=Hydrophyllum albifrons= Heller. (_Hydrophyllum congestum_ Wiegand.)
On the meadows near Van Trump Glacier.
=Romanzoffia sitchensis= Bongard.
A handsome little plant with orbicular coarsely dentate leaves and a loose cluster of small white flowers. In habit much like some saxifrages. Rare on wet cliffs near Sluiskin Falls.
=Phacelia nemoralis= Greene.
This plant occurs on rock talus along the north side of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Phacelia sericea= Gray.
A handsome species with silvery leaves and dense clusters of purple flowers. Collected somewhere on the mountain by Rev. E. C. Smith in 1890.
=POLEMONIACEAE.= (Phlox Family.)
=Phlox diffusa= Bentham.
A prostrate plant with acerose leaves, when in bloom forming dense masses of pale blue. Common at 5,500 to 6,500 feet altitude, in rocky soil.
=Gilia gracilis= (Douglas) Hooker.
Growing on an old moraine along Carbon Glacier, Flett.
=Gilia nuttallii= Gray.
A white-flowered species found by Rev. E. C. Smith in 1890 somewhere on the southwest slopes of the mountain.
=Collomia debilis= (Watson) Greene.
Not rare in talus at the base of basalt cliffs on the east side of the mountain at 7,000 feet altitude.
=Collomia heterophylla= Hooker.
Found by Mr. Gorman on the gravelly banks of the Nisqually at Longmire Springs; also by Flett; a common lowland plant.
=Polemonium humile= Roemer & Schultes.
A handsome plant with pinnate leaves and corymbs of pale blue flowers. Common on the rocks at 5,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Polemonium elegans= Greene. (_P. bicolor_ Greenman.)
Similar to the preceding, but smaller and very glandular, the blue flowers having a large yellow center. Rather rare in pumice at 7,500 feet elevation.
=Polemonium viscosum pilosum= Greenman.
Very much like the preceding plant. Discovered by Allen on the Goat Mountains, No. 261.
=GENTIANACEAE.= (Gentian Family.)
=Gentiana calycosa= Grisebach.
An elegant plant with deep blue bell-shaped flowers. Abundant along the rills at 5,000 feet. The species was described from Mount Rainier specimens collected by Tolmie in 1833. Grisebach also described a variety _stricta_, based on very trivial characters.
=PRIMULACEAE.= (Primrose Family.)
=Dodecatheon jeffreyi= Van Houtte. (_D. crenatum_ Greene.) (_D. viviparum_ Greene.)
Plentiful in wet places at 4,500 to 5,500 feet elevation. Professor Greene's types came from Spray Park.
=Douglasia laevigata= Gray.
A handsome little plant forming broad mats and bearing blood-red flowers in corymbs. Goat Mountains, Allen.
=Trientalis latifolia= Hooker.
Gorman reports this plant as occurring in coniferous woods between Longmire Springs and Paradise Park.
=PYROLACEAE.= (Indian Pipe Family.)
=Chimaphila umbellata= (Linnaeus) Nuttall.
Reported by Gorman "on the trail above Longmire Springs, in coniferous woods."
=Chimaphila menziesii= (R. Brown) Sprengel.
In deep coniferous woods, 2,000 to 4,000 feet elevation.
=Pyrola secunda= Linnaeus.
Growing with the preceding.
=Pyrola bracteata= Hooker.
Reported by Gorman "in coniferous woods along the Nisqually River at 2,850 feet."
=Moneses uniflora= (Linnaeus) Gray.
In woods near the base of the mountain.
=Monotropa hypopitys= Linnaeus.
Common in the dense shade of conifers along the trail above Longmire's.
=Pterospora andromedea= Nuttall.
This peculiar plant occurs along the Nisqually trail at about 3,000 feet altitude.
=Allotropa virgata= Torrey & Gray.
This queer plant is abundant in coniferous woods on the north side of the mountain, but it is doubtful whether it comes within our limits.
=ERICACEAE.= (Heath Family.)
=Menziesia glabella= Gray.
A shrub four to eight feet high, much resembling a huckleberry, but the fruit is dry.
=Kalmia polifolia microphylla= (Hooker) Piper.
In wet places at 7,000 feet altitude near Nisqually Glacier.
=Phyllodoce empetriformis= (Smith) D. Don.
The common red-flowered heather, abundant on dryish slopes at 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Phyllodoce glanduliflora= (Hooker) Coville.
Much like the preceding, but the flowers yellowish-white and glandular. Frequent at 6,500 to 7,500 feet elevation.
=Cassiope mertensiana= (Bongard) Donn.
A low shrub growing with _Phyllodoce empetriformis_, and having small pendent, bell-shaped white flowers.
=Harrimanella stelleriana= (Pallas) Coville.
On the moist cliffs overlooking the Nisqually Glacier, at 5,500 feet elevation. This is the southernmost known station for the plant.
=Gaultheria shallon= Pursh.
The salal-berry is reported by Gorman to occur in coniferous woods between Longmire Springs and Paradise Park.
=Gaultheria ovatifolia= Gray.
This species resembles a diminutive plant of the preceding, but the berries are red and spicy, and borne singly in the axils of the leaves. Abundant in the coniferous woods at 3,000 to 3,500 feet elevation.
=Gaultheria humifusa= (Graham) Rydberg.
Much like a small plant of the preceding species, and only an inch or two high. Not rare on the slopes near Sluiskin Falls.
=Rhododendron albiflorum= Hooker. (_Cladothamnus campanulatus_ Greene).
The white-flowered azalea so common in the shelter of trees at 5,000 to 5,500 feet elevation.
=Arctostaphylos uva-ursi= Linnaeus.
The kinnikinnik, essentially a lowland plant, covers the rocks at 8,000 feet altitude near Nisqually Glacier.
=Arctostaphylos nevadensis= Gray.
On the gravel bars of the Nisqually at Longmire Springs.
=Vaccinium macrophyllum= (Hooker) Piper.
The most valuable of all the native huckleberries. Easily recognized by the nearly black, not glaucous berries, and finely serrate leaves. Plentiful at 3,000 to 4,000 feet altitude.
=Vaccinium ovalifolium= Smith.
Much like the preceding, but taller, the leaves entire, and the glaucous black berries not nearly so sweet.
=Vaccinium myrtillus microphyllum= Hooker. (_V. scoparium_ Leiberg.)
A low, broom-like species, with small leaves and red or wine-colored berries. On dry ridges, 4,000 to 5,000 feet altitude.
=Vaccinium deliciosum= Piper.
This is the common bilberry of the alpine meadows of the Cascade and Olympic Mountains in Washington, where it is abundant at 4,500 to 5,500 feet altitude. In habit and fruit it resembles _V. caespitosum_, but in floral characters _V. ovalifolium_, to which Dr. Gray rather hesitatingly referred it. From this last it may readily be distinguished by its serrulate leaves and low habit, its relatively longer filaments, which in _V. ovalifolium_ are only one half as long as the anthers, and its small-seeded fruit of very different flavor. Very young leaves have the serrulations tipped with small glandular appendages.
=UMBELLIFERAE.= (Parsley Family.)
=Ligusticum purpureum= Coulter & Rose.
A tall "wild parsnip," with fern-like leaves and small whitish or purple-tinged flowers. Everywhere on the slopes, 4,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Lomatium angustatum= Coulter & Rose.
In rock talus near Sluiskin Falls.
=Lomatium triternatum= Coulter & Rose.
A form of this variable species was found on the Goat Mountains by Allen, No. 257.
=Angelica lyallii= Watson.
Paradise Park, 5,000 feet elevation. Also common near the foot of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Sanicula septentrionalis= Greene.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 254.
=Osmorhiza ambigua= (Gray) Coulter & Rose.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 256.
=Heracleum lanatum= Michaux.
Common at 4,000 feet elevation.
=Hesperogenia stricklandi= Coulter & Rose.
An interesting plant, the type of a new genus, found in Paradise Park by Allen and by Strickland. Also collected on the mountain by Flett. Occurs at 6,500 feet elevation.
=HALORAGIDACEAE.= (Water Milfoil Family.)
=Hippuris vulgaris= Linnaeus.
Found by Allen at Longmire Springs.
=Hippuris montana= Ledebour.
An interesting little species much resembling some mosses. It frequently mats the ground in wet places at 4,500 feet elevation.
=ONAGRACEAE.= (Evening Primrose Family.)
=Epilobium spicatum= Lamarck.
The common "fireweed," reported by Gorman on the "grassy slopes, 5,000 to 6,000 feet altitude."
=Epilobium latifolium= Linnaeus.
A species with flowers like the preceding, but only four to six inches tall. Found by Rev. E. C. Smith near the Cowlitz Glacier.
=Epilobium luteum= Pursh.
A yellow-flowered species common along streams, 3,000 to 5,000 feet elevation.
=Epilobium alpinum= Linnaeus. (_E. hornemanni_ Reichenbach.)
Common at 4,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Epilobium anagallidifolium= Lamarck.
A minute species found on the Tatoosh Mountains by Allen.
=Epilobium clavatum= Trelease.
Gravelly slopes at 5,000 feet. Plentiful along the Cowlitz Glacier.
=Epilobium fastigiatum= (Nuttall) Piper.
A glaucous-leaved small species, on the gravel bars of the Nisqually, and up to 4,500 feet elevation.
=Gayophytum ramosissimum= Torrey & Gray.
On gravelly slopes near the foot of Cowlitz Glacier.
=VIOLACEAE.= (Violet Family.)
=Viola palustris= Linnaeus.
The common swamp violet was found at Narada Falls by Flett.
=Viola adunca= Smith.
Rare in rock crevices near Sluiskin Falls. Flowers deep violet.
=Viola montanensis= Rydberg.
Like the preceding, but the leaves puberulent. Near Van Trump Glacier, at 6,000 feet altitude.
=Viola glabella= Nuttall.
A yellow-flowered species common along streams and in rich woods up to 3,000 feet altitude.
=HYPERICACEAE.= (St. Johnswort Family.)
=Hypericum bryophytum= Elmer.
A diminutive plant along rills at 5,000 feet elevation.
=ACERACEAE.= (Maple Family.)
=Acer douglasii= Hooker.
The smooth maple is common on the headwaters of the Nisqually.
=CELASTRACEAE.= (Staff Tree Family.)
=Pachystima myrsinites= (Pursh) Rafinesque.
An evergreen shrub two or three feet high, having considerable resemblance to a huckleberry. Common in coniferous woods at 3,000 to 4,000 feet elevation.
=EMPETRACEAE.= (Crowberry Family.)
=Empetrum nigrum= Linnaeus.
A prostrate cespitose shrub with yew-like leaves and black berries. Common on the rocks at 7,500 feet altitude.
=OXALIDACEAE.= (Oxalis Family.)
=Oxalis oregana= Nuttall.
Common in rich, moist woods up to 3,000 feet altitude.
=Oxalis trilliifolia= Hooker.
With the preceding, which it resembles. It may be distinguished by its scapes bearing several flowers, instead of only one, and by its narrow pods.
=LEGUMINOSAE.= (Pea Family.)
=Lupinus subalpinus= Piper & Robinson.
The common lupine of the grassy slopes, 4,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Lupinus volcanicus= Greene.
A small species, with hairy pubescence, growing above the limit of the preceding and below that of the following.
=Lupinus lyallii= Watson.
A lovely little plant with silvery foliage. Abundant in the pumice fields at 7,000 to 8,000 feet altitude.
=Lathyrus pauciflorus= Fernald.
A wild pea with purple flowers collected by Allen in the Goat Mountains.
=Lathyrus nevadensis= Watson.
Very like the preceding but with white flowers. Collected by Allen, No. 297, on mountains near the upper valley of the Nisqually.
=Oxytropis cusickii= Greenman.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 245.
=ROSACEAE.= (Rose Family.)
=Spiraea densiflora= Nuttall.
A low shrub with dense corymbs of rose-colored flowers. Common in bogs at 4,500 feet, and on rock cliffs up to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Eriogynia pectinata= (Pursh) Hooker.
A little shrub only two or three inches tall, forming dense mats. The plant should easily be recognized by its sharply cleft leaves and dense erect racemes of white flowers. Abundant at 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation. Gorman reports it from near the "Sphinx," 8,500 feet.
=Rubus nivalis= Douglas.
A trailing vine, with glossy, green, simple leaves. Common in the coniferous forests at 3,000 feet altitude, where it seldom blooms. On exposed rocks and banks one rarely finds its dull red flowers or bright red, raspberry-like, sour fruit.
=Rubus pedatus= Smith.
A trailing herbaceous plant, with palmately compound leaves and strawberry-like blossoms. The smooth red fruit is sour, and consists of only a few large drupelets. Common in the woods up to 4,000 feet altitude.
=Rubus lasiococcus= Gray.
Much like the preceding, but with simple leaves and pubescent fruit. Grows with the preceding, and up to 5,000 feet or more.
=Potentilla flabellifolia= Hooker.
The common cinquefoil of the meadows, with bright yellow buttercup-like flowers. Plentiful at 5,000 feet elevation.
=Potentilla dissecta= Pursh.
This has been collected by Allen on the Goat Mountains, No. 251.
=Potentilla glaucophylla= Lehmann.
Near the foot of Gibraltar, at 8,500 feet altitude.
=Potentilla villosa= Pallas.
A species with silvery strawberry-like leaves and bright yellow flowers. On the cliffs near the foot of Little Tahoma, at 7,500 feet elevation.
=Potentilla fruticosa tenuifolia= (Willdenow) Lehmann.
This shrubby cinquefoil occurs along White River Glacier.
=Sibbaldia procumbens= Linnaeus.
Abundant on the ridge near Sluiskin Falls.
=Dryas octopetala= Linnaeus.
Found in talus between Urania and White Glaciers by Professor Flett. This is the southernmost known station in the Cascade Mountains.
=Pyrus occidentalis= Watson.
This mountain ash occurs at 4,500 to 5,000 feet altitude, usually forming dense clumps. It is seldom over four feet high. From related species its dull purple glaucous fruit and dull green leaves, serrate only near the apex, easily distinguish it.
=Pyrus sitchensis= (Roemer) Piper. (_Sorbus sitchensis_ Roemer.)
This species grows from four to fifteen feet high, and is easily known by its intense scarlet fruit and shining leaflets, which are sharply serrate to the base. The plant of the Cascade Mountains matches exactly with the type from Sitka, and we can detect no differences in the shrub common in the Blue Mountains and in Western Idaho. This shrub has heretofore been known as _Pyrus sambucifolia_ Chamisso & Schlechtendahl, but authentic Kamtschatka specimens of this last are clearly different from our plant.
=Rosa nutkana= Presl.
This common wild rose has been collected by Allen on the Goat Mountains, at 4,500 feet elevation.
=SAXIFRAGACEAE.= (Saxifrage Family.)
=Ribes howellii= Greene. (_Ribes acerifolium_ Howell.)
A small currant, two to four feet high, with pendent racemes of flowers and glaucous black fruit. Common in the shelter of trees up to their limit.
=Ribes bracteosum= Douglas.
A currant with very large leaves and long, erect racemes of greenish flowers; fruit black. It is common along streams at low altitudes, and is locally known as "stink currant." Gorman reports it from Cowlitz Canyon, near the timber line.
=Ribes lacustre= (Persoon) Poiret.
This very prickly gooseberry is reported by Gorman from the same locality as the preceding.
=Leptarrhena amplexifolia= (Sternberg) Seringe.
A handsome plant, with a radical tuft of oblong crenate evergreen leaves, and an erect scape of small greenish flowers in a corymb. The pods when mature are usually deeply tinged with purple. Common on the borders of rills at 5,000 feet, and on the wet cliffs near Sluiskin Falls. Also reported by Professor Greene from Spray Park.
=Tiarella unifoliata= Hooker.
Common in rich woods up to 3,500 feet elevation.
=Mitella breweri= Watson.
In the shelter of trees, common at 6,000 feet altitude.
=Mitella pentandra= Hooker.
Much like the preceding and found in similar places.
=Mitella trifida= Graham.
Found on Mount Rainier and on Goat Mountains by Allen.
=Parnassia fimbriata= König.
A plant with radical reniform leaves and one-flowered scapes. The petals are white and fringed. Not rare in moist places near Sluiskin Falls; also at Crater Lake.
=Heuchera glabra= Willdenow.
On the cliffs near Camp of the Clouds.
=Heuchera micrantha= Douglas.
Mount Rainier, _Tolmie_, according to Hooker.
=Elmera racemosa= (Watson) Rydberg. (_Heuchera racemosa_ Watson.)
Rock crevices at the base of Little Tahoma; rare.
=Suksdorfia ranunculifolia= (Hooker) Engler.
Rock Cliffs near Camp of the Clouds.
=Saxifraga bongardi= Presl.
Common along rills, 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Saxifraga bronchialis austromontana= (Wiegand) Piper.
Abundant on rock cliffs near Longmire Springs, and frequent up to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Saxifraga marshallii= Greene.
Rare on the cliffs near Sluiskin Falls. Also collected on the Goat Mountains by Mr. Allen.
=Saxifraga odontoloma= Piper.
A species with reniform, coarsely dentate leaves. Common along the rivulets, 5,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Saxifraga nelsoniana= D. Don.
Much like the preceding, but the petals oval instead of orbicular and clawed. Near Camp of the Clouds; rare.
=Saxifraga mertensiana= Bongard.
Much like _S. odontoloma_, but the leaves doubly dentate, and usually bearing bulblets among the flowers. North side of Cowlitz Glacier; rare.
=Saxifraga tolmaei= Torrey & Gray.
Abundant at 5,000 to 7,500 feet elevation, blooming as soon as the snow melts. Easily known by its small, thick, entire leaves, and small white flowers, solitary on scapes an inch or two high. Originally found by Tolmie, from whose specimens the species was described.
=Saxifraga debilis= Engelmann.
Found on Mount Rainier by Mr. Allen. This is the first record of the plant west of Colorado.
=Saxifraga caespitosa= Linnaeus.
Collected by Flett and by Allen. Leaves 3 to 5-lobed.
=CRASSULACEAE.= (Stonecrop Family.)
=Sedum divergens= Watson.
This species is easily known by its small globular leaves. Common on the cliffs near Sluiskin Falls.
=CRUCIFERAE.= (Mustard Family.)
=Draba aureola= Watson.
A viscid yellow-flowered species, rather rare at and near Camp Muir.
=Draba lonchocarpa= Rydberg.
In pumice sand at 8,500 feet altitude.
=Arabis lyallii= Watson.
Common along Paradise River, at 5,000 feet altitude, but also occurring in the pumice at 7,500 feet.
=Arabis drummondii= Gray.
Piper No. 2065, referable to this species, is from Mount Rainier. Collected near the Cowlitz Glacier.
=Cardamine kamtschatica= (Regel) Schulz. (_C. umbellata_ Greene.)
A small "bitter-cress," not rare along rills at 5,000 feet elevation.
=Erysimum asperum= (Nuttall) De Candolle.
A yellow-flowered plant much like a wallflower, rare at 6,000 feet altitude. It occurs also in loose rock near Interglacier.
=Smelowskia ovalis= Jones.
A small, white-flowered, canescent plant, interesting because it ascends Mount Rainier higher than any other flowering plant. Common from 8,000 to 10,000 feet altitude. One specimen was collected quite at the base of "The Sphinx."
=FUMARIACEAE.= (Bleeding-heart Family.)
=Corydalis scouleri= Hooker.
Common along streams at low elevations.
=BERBERIDACEAE.= (Barberry Family.)
=Achlys triphylla= (Smith) De Candolle.
Reported by Mr. Gorman "on the trail from Longmire Springs to the Park." The sweet-smelling leaves of this plant have suggested the name of "vanilla leaf."
=RANUNCULACEAE.= (Buttercup Family.)
=Thalictrum occidentale= Gray.
This meadow-rue is not rare near the foot of Van Trump Glacier.
=Anemone drummondii= Watson.
Collected by Flett, No. 2171, on the north side of the mountain at 7,000 feet altitude.
=Anemone hudsoniana= (De Candolle) Richardson.
Collected on the Goat Mountains by Mr. Allen, No. 250.
=Pulsatilla occidentalis= (Watson) Freyn.
Common on the dry slopes 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation. Flowers large, white or bluish, developing a large head of tailed carpels, which has much the appearance of a hussar's cap.
=Trautvetteria grandis= Nuttall.
A tall plant with large maple-like leaves and loose corymbs of delicate white flowers. Abundant in shady woods up to 4,000 feet elevation. The pallid blossoms, in sharp contrast to the shade they dwell in, has prompted the name of "ghost flower."
=Ranunculus suksdorfii= Gray.
A bright-flowered buttercup, not rare in moist places at 5,500 feet elevation.
=Ranunculus verecundus= Robinson.
On rocky ridges at 7,000 feet altitude, Flett.
=Caltha leptosepala= De Candolle. (_C. macounii_ Greene.)
Wet places, 4,000 to 6,000 feet; plentiful.
=Aquilegia formosa= Fisher.
The common scarlet and yellow columbine of the lowland, found on the grassy slopes at 5,500 feet elevation.
=Delphinium bicolor= Nuttall.
A handsome blue and white-flowered larkspur, found in the Goat Mountains by Mr. Allen, No. 146.
=Delphinium glaucum= Watson.
This larkspur is tall, three to four feet high, with rather many large leaves, and long racemes of pale blue small flowers. Collected by Mr. Allen in the Upper Nisqually Valley, and by the writer near Crater Lake.
=CARYOPHYLLACEAE.= (Pink Family.)
=Silene lyallii= Watson. (_S. macounii_ Watson.) (_S. douglasii viscida_ Robinson.)
Distinguished from its near allies by its four-lobed petals. Not rare at 6,000 feet altitude.
=Silene suksdorfii= Robinson.
A low species, with scapes mostly one-flowered. Rather rare in the loose basalt talus near the base of Little Tahoma.
=Silene acaulis= Linnaeus.
The "moss campion" of Europe, and common in the Rocky Mountains. Collected by Mr. Flett near the Mowich Glacier.
=Stellaria borealis= Bigelow.
A prostrate chickweed, common along the Paradise River, at 5,000 feet elevation.
=Stellaria washingtoniana= Robinson.
Described from specimens collected by Allen on the slopes of the mountain at the head of Nisqually River in alder woods.
=Sagina occidentalis= Watson.
A small species of pearlwort, doubtfully referred here, occurs rarely along rivulets in Paradise Park.
=Cerastium arvense= Linnaeus.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 237.
=Arenaria capillaris= Poiret.
Common on the rocks at 5,000 to 7,000 feet elevation. The form with curved leaves, variety _nardifolia_ Regel, is more frequent than the type.
=Arenaria verna= Linnaeus.
Rather rare in the pumice on the east side of the mountain.
=Arenaria macrophylla= Hooker.
In dry woods at low altitudes.
=PORTULACACEAE.= (Purslane Family.)
=Spraguea multiceps= Howell.
A handsome plant, with entire spatulate leaves and dense heads of pink or purple flowers. Common in the pumice fields.
=Claytonia sibirica= Linnaeus.
Collected by Flett somewhere near the base of the mountain. The commonest lowland "spring beauty."
=Claytonia asarifolia= Bongard.
A plant with fleshy entire leaves and small racemes of white flowers. Occasional along the rivulets at 4,000 to 5,000 feet elevation.
=Claytonia parvifolia= Mocino.
On the rocks at 3,000 to 4,000 feet altitude.
=Claytonia lanceolata= Pursh.
Common in the grassy meadows. The tuberous root is edible.
=Lewisia columbiana= (Howell) Robinson.
Goat Mountains, Allen. Leaves fleshy, flowers rose-purple, showy.
=POLYGONACEAE.= (Buckwheat Family.)
=Oxyria digyna= (Linnaeus) Hill.
A small plant with reniform entire leaves, and flowers and fruit like those of the common docks. Not rare in rock crevices at 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Polygonum minimum= Watson.
Common at 5,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Polygonum douglasii= Greene.
On a gravelly slope near the foot of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Polygonum newberryi= Small.
Common in the pumice fields, where it is a characteristic plant.
=Polygonum bistortoides= Pursh.
Very plentiful on the grassy slopes, where it is conspicuous by its dense white-flowered spikes an inch long, borne singly on slender stems a foot or two high.
=Eriogonum compositum= Douglas.
A form of this variable species occurs on the talus at the foot of the cliffs on the north side of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Eriogonum pyrolaefolium coryphaeum= Torrey & Gray.
Plentiful in the pumice fields.
=BETULACEAE.= (Birch Family.)
=Alnus sinuata= (Regel) Rydberg.
Sitka alder. A small alder, seldom over ten or twelve feet high. Common along the streams at low altitude.
=SALICACEAE.= (Willow Family.)
=Salix scouleriana= Barratt.
The common upland willow; not rare up to 3,500 feet elevation.
=Salix sitchensis= Sanson.
The "silky willow" is plentiful along the Nisqually at Longmire Springs.
=Salix barclayi= Anderson.
=Salix commutata= Bebb.
These two willows make thickets along the rills at about 6,000 feet altitude. The leaves in the former are smooth above and glaucous beneath; in the latter pubescent on both sides.
=Salix nivalis= Hooker.
A very dwarf willow, with obtuse leaves, growing only a few inches high. Found on the north side of the mountain by Flett.
=Salix saximontana= Rydberg.
Very similar to _Salix nivalis_, but larger in every way. Also found by Flett on the north side of the mountain.
=Salix cascadensis= Cockerell. (_S. tenera_ Andersson.)
A very dwarf rare willow with leaves acute at each end. North slope of the mountain, collected by Flett.
=Populus trichocarpa= Torrey & Gray.
The cottonwood occurs along the Nisqually to some distance above Longmire Springs.
=ORCHIDACEAE.= (Orchis Family.)
=Corallorhiza maculata= Rafinesque.
Common in the coniferous woods at low altitudes.
=Corallorhiza mertensiana= Bongard.
Frequent in the dense coniferous woods up to 3,500 feet.
=Spiranthes romanzoffiana= Chamisso.
A small form of this species was found in a bog on the summit of the ridge overlooking the foot of the Nisqually Glacier.
=Peramium decipiens= (Hooker) Piper.
On the trail above Longmire Springs, according to Mr. Gorman.
=Limnorchis stricta= (Lindley) Rydberg.
A tall plant with long spikes of greenish flowers. Not rare in wet places at 5,000 feet elevation.
=Listera caurina= Piper.
Common in mossy woods up to 3,500 feet.
=Listera convallarioides= (Swartz) Torrey.
Growing in moist woods near the foot of the mountain.
=LILIACEAE.= (Lily Family.)
=Allium validum= Watson.
This wild onion has rootstock-like bulbs. It has been found on the north side of the mountain, and only by Mr. Flett.
=Vagnera sessilifolia= (Baker) Greene.
Common in moist woods up to 3,000 feet altitude.
=Streptopus curvipes= Vail.
Common in moist woods at 3,000 feet. Distinguished from the Eastern _S. roseus_ by its small size, simple stems, and creeping rootstocks.
=Lilium columbianum= Hanson.
The wild tiger lily occurs on dry slopes near Longmire Springs and in Paradise Park, at 5,000 feet elevation.
=Fritillaria lanceolata= Pursh.
Goat Mountains, Allen, No. 235.
=Erythronium montanum= Watson.
The white-flowered adder's tongue, so abundant in Paradise Park, up to 5,500 feet altitude.
=Erythronium parviflorum= (Watson) Goodding.
Much like the preceding, but the flowers yellow. Frequent along rills at 5,500 feet.
=Clintonia uniflora= (Schultes) Kunth.
Abundant in the coniferous forests at 2,000 to 4,000 feet altitude. Easily recognized by its tuft of two to four radical leaves, which are oblong in form, and its delicate scapes, three or four inches high, bearing a single white flower. The berry is blue.
=Trillium ovatum= Pursh.
The wake-robin is plentiful at 3,000 feet altitude.
=Tofieldia intermedia= Rydberg.
This species has been confused with both _T. glutinosa_ and _T. occidentalis_. From the former it differs principally in its seed characters, otherwise being so similar that there are no distinguishing characters in the flowering specimens. All the Cascade Mountain specimens apparently belong to _T. intermedia_, because no plant with the seed character of _T. glutinosa_ has as yet been found in that range of mountains.
=Veratrum viride= Aiton.
The green hellebore forms considerable clumps, three or four feet high. It is frequent on moist slopes in Paradise Park.
=Stenanthium occidentale= Gray.
Goat Mountains, Allen, 233. Also collected on Mount Rainier by Rev. E. C. Smith, in 1890.
=Xerophyllum tenax= (Pursh) Nuttall.
The so-called pine-lily or bear-grass is not rare in gravelly soil in rather open woods. Straggling specimens are found up to 5,500 feet altitude.
=JUNCACEAE.= (Rush Family.)
=Juncoides glabratum= (Hooker) Sheldon.
Dry, grassy slopes at 5,000 feet.
=Juncoides majus= (Hooker) Piper. (_Luzula arcuata major_ Hooker.) (_Juncoides piperi_ Coville.)
The plants referred here occur at 7,000 feet altitude, in springy places. Allen, No. 44, and Piper, 2172, are identical with Tolmie's Mount Rainier specimens.
=Juncoides parviflorum= (Ehrhart) Coville.
Common on dry slopes up to 5,000 feet elevation.
=Juncoides spicata= (Linnaeus) Kuntze.
Rather rare in damp places in the pumice fields, at 8,000 feet altitude.
=Juncus subtriflorus= (E. Meyer) Coville.
Common at 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Juncus parryi= Engelmann.
Much like the preceding, and growing along with it.
=Juncus mertensianus= Bongard.
Frequent along rills even up to 8,000 feet altitude.
=CYPERACEAE.= (Sedge Family.)
=Eriophorum polystachion= Linnaeus.
This "cotton-grass" occurs in the low ground around the lakes near the base of Pinnacle Peak.
=Carex paddoensis= Suksdorf.
Springy places at 8,000 feet altitude; Allen, 172; Piper, 2541.
=Carex pyrenaica= Wahlenberg.
With the preceding; Allen, 171; Piper, 2540.
=Carex phaeocephala= Piper.
Dryish places at 7,500 feet elevation; Piper, 2535.
=Carex preslii= Bailey.
Common at 5,000 feet, along streams.
=Carex pachystachya= Chamisso.
This species occurs along rills in Paradise Park.
=Carex nigricans= Meyer.
Common at 4,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Carex rossii= Boott.
On the grassy ridge above Sluiskin Falls.
=Carex geyeri= Boott.
Goat Mountains, Allen, 169.
=Carex mertensii= Prescott.
Rare along stream banks at about 4,000 feet altitude. Some of our specimens came from near the foot of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Carex spectabilis= Dewey. (_C. invisa_ Bailey.)
In wet meadows at 4,000 feet elevation.
=Carex scopulorum= Holm.
With the preceding.
=Carex ablata= Bailey.
Frequent in the meadows of Paradise Park.
=Carex accedens= Holm.
Paradise Park; Piper, 2550.
=Carex arcta= Boott.
Mount Rainier, 4,000 feet altitude; Allen 271.
=Carex atrata= Linnaeus.
Collected by Allen, August 14, 1895.
=Carex laeviculmis= Meinschausen.
In swamps near the foot of the mountain.
=Carex hepburnii= Boott.
A handsome little plant common at 8,000 feet altitude.
=Carex kelloggii= W. Boott.
Along Paradise River; Piper, 2548.
=Carex rigida= Goodenough.
Allen, 269, and Piper, 2533, are referred here. The last-named specimens are from near the foot of Pinnacle Peak.
=GRAMINEAE.= (Grass Family.)
=Phleum alpinum= Linnaeus.
The "mountain timothy" is of frequent occurrence at 5,000 to 6,000 feet altitude.
=Agrostis geminata= Trinius.
Collected by Allen, in 1894.
=Agrostis aequivalvis= Trinius.
The plant referred here is common on the banks of the Paradise River up to 5,000 feet.
=Agrostis rossae= Vasey.
Slopes at 6,000 feet elevation; common.
=Agrostis humilis= Vasey.
Abundant in springy places at 8,500 feet elevation.
=Calamagrostis vaseyi= Beal.
Goat Mountains, Allen, and common on the rocky ridges north of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Calamagrostis scabra= Presl.
Not rare at 5,500 feet elevation; near Sluiskin Falls, Piper; Tatoosh Mountains, Allen.
=Deschampsia atropurpurea= (Wahlenberg) Scheele.
Common at 5,000 to 6,000 feet elevation.
=Danthonia intermedia= Vasey.
Common at about 5,000 feet altitude.
=Trisetum cernuum= Trinius.
Moist places up to 5,000 feet altitude.
=Trisetum spicatum= (Linnaeus) Richter.
Rare on the ridge near Camp of the Clouds.
=Cinna latifolia= (Treviranus) Grisebach.
Common in wet ground about Longmire Springs.
=Poa arctica= R. Brown.
A grass doubtfully referred to this species is common at 5,500 feet elevation.
=Poa paddensis= Williams.
One of the most frequent grasses at 5,000 to 6,000 feet.
=Poa saxatilis= Scribner & Williams.
On rock cliffs at 6,000 feet. The type of this species is Piper No. 1964, from above Camp of the Clouds.
=Poa suksdorfii= Vasey.
Rather rare in the pumice at 9,000 feet elevation.
=Poa lettermani= Vasey.
On the slopes near Camp Muir, growing with the preceding.
=Festuca viridula= Vasey.
The finest grass on the slopes. Abundant at 5,000 feet elevation.
=Festuca ovina supina= (Schur) Hackel.
In the pumice fields at 8,000 feet altitude.
=Festuca subulata= Trinius.
Longmire Springs, in moist places.
=Bromus marginatus= Nees.
A species doubtfully referred here was collected on the mountains in 1890 by Rev. E. C. Smith. No specimens of it are now in our possession.
=Sitanion rigidum= J. G. Smith.
Pumice fields at 8,000 feet.
=Sitanion glabrum= J. G. Smith.
Common on the rocky ridges north of Cowlitz Glacier.
=Sitanion rubescens= Piper.
Dry slopes on the south side of the mountain.
=SPARGANIACEAE.= (Bur-reed Family.)
=Sparganium minimum= Fries.
Collected in 1890 by Rev. E. C. Smith, in one of the small lakes near the base of Pinnacle Peak.
=TAXACEAE.= (Yew Family.)
=Taxus brevifolia= Nuttall. Western Yew.
The yew is not uncommon along the trail from Longmire Springs to Paradise Park. It does not ascend much above 3,000 feet elevation.
=PINACEAE.= (Pine Family.)
=Juniperus sibirica= Burgsdorff. Mountain Juniper.
The alpine juniper occurs on the banks of the Nisqually, near Longmire Springs, and is common on the rocks up to 7,500 feet elevation.
=Chamaecyparis nootkatensis= (Lambert) Spach. Alaska Cedar.
The Alaska cedar ranges on the mountain slopes from 3,500 feet up to 6,000 feet altitude. It is far more abundant on the north side of the peak than on the south. Few, if any, specimens exceed four feet in diameter, and where the trees are most abundant the trunks are only one or two feet through.
=Abies grandis= Lindley. White Fir.
Some trees, without cones, which were observed on the trail above Longmire Springs, are doubtfully referred here. They are more likely to belong to the following species.
=Abies amabilis= (Douglas) Forbes. Lovely Fir.
The Lovely fir is abundant at from 2,500 to 3,500 feet elevation. It is usually but a small tree, with beautifully symmetrical form. Except when fruiting, it is difficult to distinguish from the lowland white fir.
=Abies nobilis= Lindley. Noble Fir.
The finest of all the firs, frequently four to six feet in diameter, without a single branch for a hundred feet or more. Easily known by the deep red color of the bark when chopped into, and by the large cones, covered with reflexed bracts. Abundant at 4,000 to 5,000 feet.
=Abies lasiocarpa= (Hooker) Nuttall. Subalpine Fir.
This is the primly conical little fir so common in Paradise Park. It rarely occurs below 4,500 feet elevation. Its dark purple pubescent cones, only two or three inches long, readily distinguish it from the preceding species.
=Pseudotsuga mucronata= (Rafinesque) Sudworth. Douglas Spruce.
The Douglas spruce is common up to 3,500 feet elevation. There is a marked tendency of the cones to be relatively shorter and thicker at this altitude, but otherwise the tree shows little variation from its lowland typical form.
=Tsuga heterophylla= Rafinesque. Western Hemlock.
The Western hemlock is abundant at 3,000 feet altitude, but usually much smaller than when growing near the sea level.
=Tsuga mertensiana= (Bongard) Carriere. Black Hemlock.
The Black hemlock is frequent from 4,000 to 6,000 feet elevation. On the higher slopes it commonly forms clumps with the Subalpine fir. When this is the case, the irregular form and dark foliage of the hemlock, usually festooned with lichens, form a pleasing contrast to the conical form and lighter foliage of the fir.
=Pinus albicaulis= Engelmann. White-bark Pine.
This white-barked nut pine is abundant on the high ridge north of the Cowlitz Glacier. It also occurs above Camp of the Clouds. It rarely fruits, and when it does the cones, with their sweet edible seeds, are quickly torn to pieces by Clark's crow. The trunk and branches are frequently adorned with the bright yellow lichen, _Evernia vulpina_.
=Pinus monticola= Douglas. Western White Pine.
Not uncommon at low elevations. The narrow cones, six to twelve inches long, are characteristic.
=Pinus contorta= Douglas. Lodgepole Pine.
Reported by Mr. Gorman "on the moraines of the Nisqually."
=Picea engelmanni= Parry. Engelmann Spruce.
Rather a rare tree about Mount Rainier, at 3,500 feet elevation. In the Sitka or Tideland spruce the leaves are decidedly flattened; in the Engelmann spruce they are nearly square in cross section.
=ISOETACEAE.= (Quillwort Family.)
=Isoetes echinospora braunii= Engelmann.
Common in the small lakes near the foot of Pinnacle Peak.
=LYCOPODIACEAE.= (Club-moss Family.)
=Lycopodium annotinum= Linnaeus.
A large patch of this handsome species occurs at the point where the trail first crosses Paradise River above Longmire Springs.
=Lycopodium sitchense= Ruprecht.
Common on the meadows at 4,000 feet elevation.
=EQUISETACEAE.= (Horsetail Family.)
=Equisetum limosum= Linnaeus.
This species occurs in the bog on top of the ridge above the foot of Nisqually Glacier. The old trail to the park led through this bog.
=Equisetum arvense= Linnaeus.
Sterile fronds of this plant were observed at Longmire Springs.
=Equisetum robustum= A. Braun.
Common in damp places up to 3,000 feet elevation. Readily eaten by cayuses.
=POLYPODIACEAE.= (Fern Family.)
=Polypodium hesperium= Maxon.
Not rare in rock crevices on the cliffs overlooking the lakes at the foot of Pinnacle Peak.
=Phegopteris dryopteris= (Linnaeus) Fee.
The pretty "oak-fern" is abundant along the trail above Longmire's, in deep woods.
=Phegopteris alpestris= (Hoppe) Mettenius.
Forming crown-like tufts in the talus at the foot of cliffs in Paradise Park.
=Dryopteris spinulosa dilatata= (Hoffman) Underwood.
The common wood-fern is frequent in the forests at 3,000 feet altitude.
=Polystichum lonchitis= (Linnaeus) Roth.
Specimens of this species are in my possession from Mount Rainier, but the exact place of collection has passed my recollection. Presumably it was found in or near Paradise Park.
=Filix fragilis= (Linnaeus) Underwood.
Diminutive specimens of this fern were collected on the cliffs at 8,000 feet altitude. Rev. E. C. Smith found much finer examples at a lower elevation.
=Cryptogramma acrostichoides= R. Brown.
Common in the coarse gravel on the bars of the Nisqually, occurring even at the foot of the glacier.
=OPHIOGLOSSACEAE.= (Adder's Tongue Family.)
=Botrychium lunaria= (Linnaeus) Swartz.
Specimens were collected by Rev. E. C. Smith on the north side of the mountain in 1888.
=Botrychium lanceolatum= (S. G. Gmelin) Angstroem.
Longmire Springs, Allen, not otherwise known on the Pacific Coast.
FOOTNOTES:
[27] Am. Jour. Sci., 3d series, Vol. XXVI, 1883, pp. 222-235.
[28] Neues Jahrbuch für Min., etc., Vol. I, 1885, pp. 222-226.
[29] Observed by Iddings: Twelfth Ann. Rept. U. S. Geol. Survey, p. 612.
[30] Hague and Iddings: Twelfth Ann. Rept. U. S. Geol. Survey, p. 225.
[31] Oebbeke, _op. cit._, p. 226.
[32] Jour. Geol., Vol. IV, 1896, p. 276.
[33] Emmons, Bull. Am. Geog. Soc., 1877, No. 4, p. 45.
XVII. CREATION OF MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
MEMORIAL BY SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES
A surprisingly wide interest was awakened by the proposal to create a national park to include the great mass of Mount Rainier and its immediate surroundings. Five societies appointed committees to coöperate in securing the needed legislation from Congress. Those committees prepared a memorial. The Senate Miscellaneous Document, number 247, Fifty-third Congress, second session, shows that the memorial was introduced on July 16, 1894, by Senator Watson C. Squire from the State of Washington. The memorial was deemed of sufficient importance to be republished in the Eighteenth Annual Report of the United States Geological Survey for 1896-1897. It is here reproduced from that publication.
With all the interest thus manifested, it required nearly five years from the introduction of the memorial to witness the achievement of its purpose. The act of Congress creating the Mount Rainier National Park bears the date of March 2, 1899.
_To the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled:_
At a meeting of the Geological Society of America, in Madison, Wis., August 15, 1893, a committee was appointed for the purpose of memorializing the Congress in relation to the establishment of a national park in the State of Washington to include Mount Rainier, often called Mount Tacoma. The committee consists of Dr. David T. Day, Mr. S. F. Emmons, and Mr. Bailey Willis.
At a meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science, in Madison, Wis., August 21, 1893, a committee was appointed by that body for the same purpose as above mentioned, consisting of Maj. J. W. Powell, Prof. Joseph Le Conte, Prof. I. C. Russell, Mr. B. E. Fernow, and Dr. C. H. Merriam.
At a meeting of the National Geographic Society, held in Washington, D. C., on October 13, 1893, there was appointed a committee for the purpose above mentioned, consisting of Hon. Gardiner G. Hubbard, Hon. Watson C. Squire, Mr. John W. Thompson, Miss Mary F. Waite, and Miss Eliza R. Scidmore.
At a meeting of the Sierra Club, held in San Francisco December 30, 1893, a committee for the same purpose was appointed, composed of Mr. John Muir, President D. S. Jordan, Mr. R. M. Johnson, Mr. George B. Bayley, Mr. P. B. Van Trump.
At a meeting of the Appalachian Mountain Club, held in Boston April 11, 1894, a similar committee was appointed, consisting of Mr. John Ritchie, Jr., Rev. E. C. Smith, Dr. Charles E. Fay.
The committees thus appointed were instructed by the several bodies to which they belong to coöperate in the preparation of a memorial to Congress, setting forth the substantial reasons for the establishment of such park.
Pursuant to their instructions, the committees present the following memorial to the Congress, and pray that such action may be taken by the honorable Senators and Representatives as will secure to the people of the United States the benefits of a national park which shall include the area mentioned above. In support of their prayer they beg to submit the following statement:
By proclamation of the President, in compliance with the statutes provided therefor, a Pacific Forest Reserve has been established in the State of Washington, the western portion of which is nearly coincident with the tract of land to be included in the national park for which your memorialists pray.
The western part of this reserve includes many features of unique interest and wonderful grandeur, which fit it peculiarly to be a national park, forever set aside for the pleasure and instruction of the people. The region is one of such exceptional rainfall and snowfall that the preservation of its forests is of unusual importance as a protection against floods in the lower valleys; but the scenic features, which mark it out for a national park, attract tourists, who set fire to the timber. This destruction goes on notwithstanding it is a forest reserve, and will continue until protection is afforded by adequate supervision of the area, whether as a reserve or park.
The reserve is traversed through the middle from north to south by the crest of the Cascade Range, which has an elevation varying from 5,300 to 6,800 feet. This is the divide between tributaries of Puget Sound, flowing west, and those of Yakima River, flowing east. Mount Rainier, the isolated volcanic peak, 14,400 feet high, stands 12 miles west of the divide, from which it is separated by a deep valley.
The eastern half of the reserve differs from the western in climate, in flora, and in fauna, in geographic and geologic features, and in aspects of scenery. The eastern slope of the Cascade Range within the reserve is a mountainous region, with summits rising to a general elevation of 6,500 to 7,600 feet above the sea. It is forest covered and presents many attractions to the tourist and hunter; but it is not peculiar among the mountain regions of America either for grandeur or interest, and it is not an essential part of the area to be set apart as a national park.
The western slope of the Cascades within the reserve is short and steep as compared with the eastern. Much of it is precipitous, particularly opposite Mount Rainier, where its bare walls would appear most grand were they not in the shadow of that overpowering peak. North and south of Rainier this slope is more gradual and densely wooded.
The western half of the Pacific reserve, that portion which it is proposed shall be made a national park, is characterized by Mount Rainier, whose summit is but 4 miles from the western boundary of the reserve and whose glaciers extend beyond its limits.
Mount Tacoma is not simply a volcanic cone, peculiar for its hugeness. It was formerly a vast volcanic dome, 30 miles in radius to the north, west, and south; but rivers have cut deep canyons, glaciers have carved ample amphitheaters back into the mass, and now many serrate ridges rising from a few hundred to 10,000 feet above the sea converge at that altitude to support the central pyramid, which towers more than 4,000 feet above its base.
This grand mountain is not, like Mount Blanc, merely the dominant peak of a chain of snow mountains; it is the only snow peak in view, Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams being, like it, isolated and many miles distant. Rainier is majestic in its isolation, reaching 6,000 to 8,000 feet above its neighbors. It is superb in its boldness, rising from one canyon 11,000 feet in 7 miles. Not only is it the grandest mountain in this country, it is one of the grand mountains of the world, to be named with St. Elias, Fusiyama, and Ararat, and the most superb summits of the Alps. Eminent scientists of England and Germany, who, as members of the Alpine Club of Switzerland and travelers of wide experience, would naturally be conservative in their judgment, have borne witness to the majesty of the scenery about Rainier.
In 1883 Professor Zittel, a well-known German geologist, and Prof. James Bryce, member of Parliament and author of the American Commonwealth, made a report on the scenery about Mount Rainier. Among other things, they said:
"The scenery of Mount Rainier is of rare and varied beauty. The peak itself is as noble a mountain as we have ever seen in its lines and structure. The glaciers which descend from its snow fields present all the characteristic features of those in the Alps, and though less extensive than the ice streams of the Mount Blanc or Monta Rosa groups are in their crevasses and séracs equally striking and equally worthy of close study. We have seen nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or Tyrol, in Norway or in the Pyrenees, than the Carbon River glaciers and the great Puyallup glaciers; indeed, the ice in the latter is unusually pure, and the crevasses unusually fine. The combination of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest type is to be found nowhere in the Old World, unless it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know, nowhere else on the American Continent."
These eminent and experienced observers further say:
"We may perhaps be permitted to express a hope that the suggestion will at no distant date be made to Congress that Mount Rainier should, like the Yosemite Valley and the geyser region of the Upper Yellowstone, be reserved by the Federal Government and treated as a national park."
But Mount Tacoma is single not merely because it is superbly majestic; it is an arctic island in a temperate zone. In a bygone age an arctic climate prevailed over the Northwest, and glaciers covered the Cascade Range. Arctic animals and arctic plants then lived throughout the region. As the climate became milder and glaciers melted, the creatures of the cold climate were limited in their geographic range to the districts of the shrinking glaciers. On the great peak the glaciers linger still. They give to it its greatest beauty. They are themselves magnificent, and with them survives a colony of arctic animals and plants which can not exist in the temperate climate of the less lofty mountains. These arctic forms are as effectually isolated as shipwrecked sailors on an island in mid-ocean. There is no refuge for them beyond their haunts on ice-bound cliffs. But even there the birds and animals are no longer safe from the keen sportsman, and the few survivors must soon be exterminated unless protected by the Government in a national park.
The area of the Pacific forest reserve includes valuable timber and important water supplies. It is said to contain coal, gold, and silver.
The timber on the western slope differs from that on the eastern in size and density of growth and in kinds of trees. The forests of Puget Sound are world-renowned for the magnitude and beauty of their hemlocks, cedars, and firs. Their timber constitutes one of the most important resources of the State. Nowhere are they more luxuriant than on the foothills west and north of Mount Rainier. But their value as timber is there subordinate to their value as regulators of floods. The Puyallup River, whose lower valley is a rich hop garden, is even now subject to floods during the rapid melting of the snow on Mount Rainier in the limited area above timber line. In the broader area below timber line, but above 3,000 feet in elevation, the depth of snow in the winter of 1893 was 9 to 15 feet. Protected by the dense canopy of the fir and hemlock trees this snow melts slowly and the river is high from March to June. But let the forest be once destroyed by fire or by lumbermen and the snows of each winter, melting in early spring, will annually overwhelm the Puyallup Valley and transform it into a gravelly waste. The same is true of White River and the Nisqually.
The forests of the eastern slope, tributary to the Yakima, are of even greater importance as water preservers. They constitute a great reservoir, holding back the precipitation of the wet season and allowing it to filter down when most needed by crops. In the Yakima Valley water gives to land its value. Storage of flood waters and extensive distribution by canals is necessary. The forests being preserved to control the water, the natural storage basins should be improved and canals built. For these reasons it is most important that no part of the forest reserve should be sacrificed, even though the eastern half is not included in the national park.
The boundaries of the proposed national park have been so drawn as to exclude from its area all lands upon which coal, gold, or other valuable minerals are supposed to occur, and they conform to the purpose that the park shall include all features of peculiar scenic beauty without encroaching on the interests of miners or settlers.
None save those who can march and camp in the primeval forest can now visit Mount Rainier; but it is the wilderness, not the distance, that makes it difficult of approach. On the west the distance up the Nisqually River from the railroad at Yelm Prairie to the reserve is but 40 miles. Though heavily timbered, the valley of the Nisqually affords an easy route for a railroad. The Cowlitz Valley also offers a line of approach without difficulty by rail, it being about 50 miles from the railroad to the reserve.
On the northwest the railroad at Wilkeson is but 23 miles from the summit of Mount Rainier, and the glaciers can be reached by riding 25 miles through the great forest.
On the north the Cascade branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad crosses the range, only 13 miles in a direct line and 19 miles along the summit from the northern limit of the reserve.
On the east the city of North Yakima is but 62 miles from the summit of Mount Rainier.
The proposed park covers a mountain region which lies across the line of travel from east to west. The railroad winds northward; the travel down the Columbia River turns southward to avoid it. The great current of tourists which flows north and south through Portland, Tacoma, Seattle, Vancouver, and Alaska passes to the west within sight of Mount Rainier, and when the grand old mountain is obscured by clouds the travelers linger to see it, or, passing regretfully on their way, know that they have missed the finest view of their trip.
When a railroad is built up the Nisqually or Cowlitz Valley to the park and connection by stages is assured northward to the Cascade branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad and eastward to Yakima, the flood of travel will be diverted through the park.
The point which combines accessibility with surroundings of great beauty, and which is therefore most appropriate as a hotel site, is southeast of Mount Rainier, on one of the spurs of the Tatoosh Mountains, near the Cowlitz Valley. To open this region to travel it would be sufficient to establish the hotel and its connections down the Nisqually or Cowlitz Valley, together with trails to points of interest within the park. From the hotel a principal trail would extend north to the Emmons and White River glaciers, which would thus be easily accessible, and thence the railroad at Wilkeson could readily be reached on horseback over the old Northern Pacific trail. In the future, stage roads, or possibly a railroad, would be extended over the Cowlitz Pass to the eastern slope, North Yakima would be reached via the Tieton or Tannum Valley, and Tannum Lake would become a favorite resort.
But the highway which would challenge the world for its equal in grand scenery would extend from the Cowlitz Pass northward along the crest of the range to the Cascade branch. The distance is 50 miles, 31 in the park and 19 beyond it to the railroad. Within the reserve the summit is open and park-like. On the east is a sea of mountains; on the west is a bold descent of 3,000 feet to the valleys of Cowlitz and White rivers, beyond which Tacoma rises in overpowering grandeur, 8,000 feet above the road and only 12 miles distant.
A committee of your memorialists has carefully examined the existing maps of the State of Washington with special reference to the position of this reserve, and finds that the boundaries of the reserve are farther east, in relation to Mount Rainier, than was supposed. The western boundary traverses the slope of Mount Rainier at altitudes of 7,000 to 9,000 feet, and the glaciers extend several miles beyond it. In order to include all of the glacial area and the immediately adjacent forest on the west, your memorialists respectfully recommend that the western boundary of the park be drawn one range west of that of the reserve, viz., at the range line between ranges 6 and 7 east of the Willamette meridian. By this change no part of the Wilkeson-Carbonado coal field would be included in the park.
Your memorialists find, as already stated, that it is not necessary to include the eastern slope of the Cascades in the park, and furthermore that it is desirable to leave the Natchez Pass on the north and the Cowlitz Pass on the south open for the construction of railroads. Your memorialists therefore pray that the park be defined by the following boundaries: Beginning at the northwest corner of sec. 19, T. 18 N., R. 7 E. of the Willamette meridian; thence south 24 miles more or less to the southwest corner of sec. 18, T. 14 N., R. 7 E.; thence east 27 miles more or less to the summit of the Cascade Range; thence in a northerly direction to a point east of the place of beginning, and thence west 26 miles more or less to the place of beginning.
Your memorialists respectfully represent that--
Railroad lines have been surveyed and after the establishment of a national park would soon be built to its boundaries. The concessions for a hotel, stopping places, and stage routes could be leased and the proceeds devoted to the maintenance of the park. The policing of the park could be performed from the barracks at Vancouver by details of soldiers, who would thus be given useful and healthful employment from May to October.
The establishment of a hotel would afford opportunity for a weather station, which, in view of the controlling influence exerted by Mount Rainier on the moisture-laden winds from the Pacific, would be important in relation to local weather predictions.
Your memorialists further represent that this region of marvelous beauty is even now being seriously marred by careless camping parties. Its valuable forests and rare animals are being injured and will certainly be destroyed unless the forest reserve be policed during the camping seasons. But efficient protection of the undeveloped wilderness is extraordinarily difficult and in this case practically impossible.
Therefore, for the preservation of the property of the United States, for the protection from floods of the people of Washington in the Yakima, Cowlitz, Nisqually, Puyallup, and White River valleys, and for the pleasure and education of the nation, your memorialists pray that the area above described be declared a national park forever.
For the National Geographic Society:
GARDINER G. HUBBARD, _President._
For the American Association for the Advancement of Science:
J. W. POWELL.
For the Geological Society of America:
BAILEY WILLIS.
For the Sierra Club:
JOHN MUIR.
For the Appalachian Mountain Club:
JOHN RITCHIE, JR.
WASHINGTON, D.C., _June 27, 1894_.
XVIII. MOUNT RAINIER IS 14,408 FEET HIGH
BY THE UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
The United States Geological Survey issued a bulletin for newspaper publication on January 22, 1914, giving the height of the mountain as determined by the most accurate and definitive methods known. That bulletin is here given as it was then issued. At the same time F. E. Matthes, topographer with the Survey, sent additional comment to the Sierra Club of California, by whom it was published in the Sierra Bulletin for January, 1914. This comment is now reproduced by permission of the Sierra Club.
The height of the summit of Mount Rainier, Washington, has been determined by the United States Geological Survey to be 14,408 feet above mean sea level. This elevation now officially displaces the former supposed height of the mountain of 14,363 feet and accords to Mount Rainier the distinction of being the second highest mountain peak in the United States, Mount Whitney, California, being the highest. The correct height of Rainier was determined by a party of topographic engineers of the Survey in connection with the mapping of the Mount Rainier National Park, which was completed last summer. The topographic survey of the park was begun in 1910 by F. E. Matthes, continued in 1911 by Mr. Matthes and George R. Davis, and finished in 1913 by C. H. Birdseye, W. O. Tufts, O. G. Taylor, and S. E. Taylor.
In the mapping of the summit of the mountain a terrific blizzard was encountered; in fact, two ascents of the upper portion of the mountain were necessary. The first ascent of the upper 5,450 feet was begun at 5 o'clock A.M., August 16 [1913], and dawn broke with every indication of developing into a beautiful day. On reaching the summit the men encountered a terrific gale, clouds enveloped the mountain, preventing observations, and by noon snow began to fall. A descent was attempted, but the party became hopelessly lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, the storm developing into a blizzard. To descend further was impossible; to remain was suicide. Consequently a return to the crater was ordered, and the men reached it after a two hours' climb, utterly exhausted and nearly frozen. Here they sought shelter in one of the steam caves, where during the long night they were thoroughly steamed and half frozen in turn. Strenuous measures were employed by the men to keep from falling asleep and freezing to death. As it was, their fingers and ears were badly frozen. Finally, with a rising barometer, they succeeded in descending 9,000 feet to a temporary camp, making the descent in three hours. Here they recuperated and prepared for another ascent, which was accomplished on August 20, the start being made at 1 o'clock in the morning. Good weather was encountered and the mapping of the entire summit was finished by 1 o'clock.
"If anyone thinks that American glaciers are play glaciers, or that the weather which may be encountered at the summit of Mount Rainier in August is uniformly balmy and springlike," said Mr. Birdseye, whose fingers and ears were badly frosted, "let him climb Mount Rainier during one of its summer blizzards. The steam caves in the crater are not the pleasantest places imaginable to spend the night in, but had they not been there, not one of us would be alive today to tell the tale."
COMMENT BY F. E. MATTHES
The mountaineers of the Pacific Northwest will no doubt jubilate at the above announcement by the United States Geological Survey of the new figure for the altitude of Mount Rainier. It places that peak close to the top of the list of high mountains in the United States. Mount Rainier's closest rival on the Pacific coast, Mount Shasta, it so happens, has just recently been beheaded by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, and now can claim no more than 14,162 feet, that is, 218 feet less than it once boasted. The great volcano of Puget Sound is thus left well in the lead.
A review of the different figures that have been announced in the past for each of the higher peaks of the United States would almost justify one to infer that these summits have a peculiar habit of fluctuating in height from time to time. Both Rainier and Shasta have been notorious for their inconstancy; so much so indeed that it is to be feared that the public will lose faith somewhat in the trustworthiness of altitude determinations in general. There is good reason to believe, however, that the last announcements for these two peaks are not likely to be changed again. About Mount Shasta, perhaps the Coast Survey is the only party able to speak positively; but as regards Mount Rainier, the Geological Survey feels satisfied that the new figure is the best that can be obtained with modern methods and instruments.
The elevation of Mount Whitney (14,501 ft.), it may be remembered, was determined by actual leveling, but such procedure would have been impossible on Mount Rainier, as the most practicable route to its summit leads over many miles of snow and ice, and up a precipitous chute several hundred feet in height. On thawing snow accurate leveling is out of the question, for the instrument can not be set up so firmly that it will not settle slightly between back and fore sights. To execute this pottering kind of work in freezing weather would entail both hardship and great expense. But the obstacle that would have proved entirely insuperable to levels on Mount Rainier and led to the abandoning of that method is the dreaded Gibraltar Rock, well known to many who read this magazine [Sierra Club Bulletin]. To carry levels up its precipitous side is for practical considerations all but impossible.
It was necessary, in the case of Mount Rainier, to resort to long-distance methods of angulation. That is to say, sights were taken to its summit from neighboring peaks, six to eight miles distant, the altitudes of which had been carefully determined, and the positions of which with respect to the mountain's summit had been computed from a scheme of triangulation.
It is not possible to execute vertical-angle measurements of this sort with the precision obtainable by leveling; at the same time by providing a sufficient number of checks and repeating each measurement many times a result can be attained that can be relied on within a foot or two. And closer than that the determination of a snowcapped peak, such as Mount Rainier, need scarcely be; for its actual height is bound to fluctuate by several feet from year to year and even from month to month.
It is gratifying to note how closely the new trigonometric determination of Mount Rainier accords with the barometric one of Prof. Alexander McAdie (14,394 ft.). It is hoped that this agreement between the results of two fundamentally different methods will strengthen public faith in their reliability, and lead to the discarding of other figures (some of them much exaggerated) that have appeared in print from time to time.
In closing, it may be said, that the Geological Survey's bulletin little more than hints at the fortitude and pluck of Mr. Birdseye and his party in their almost disastrous experiences on the peak. Survey men are so frequently confronted by peril in their daily work, that they are not apt to write or talk about it, and as a consequence the public seldom learns the intimate details. It is to be hoped that the history of this undertaking will some day appear in full.
XIX. PLACE NAMES AND ELEVATIONS IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
Place names within a region like the Mount Rainier National Park are produced by three causes: The first and most important is the actual need of such names by those who work within the Park and by those who report upon or write about it. The second is the natural desire to honor those individuals whose achievements are worthy of commemoration. The third cause is found in the vanity of visitors. This is sometimes manifested in the harmless and often helpful desire just to be the one to name something, but usually it takes the form of a desire of visitors to write the names of themselves or their friends upon the map.
The ranger who discovers from a look-out peak a distant fire near some unnamed lake or cliff hastens to a telephone, but finds his work of sending fire fighters to the place of danger much more difficult than if he could use some definite place name. Trail builders and patrols continually find a similar need for names. For their own use they proceed to invent names which often stick. The Mountaineers in 1915 found that a trail builder had supplied such a need by giving a beautiful waterfall near his trail the name of his favorite brand of canned peaches. More care of such matters is now being exercised by those interested working through the United States Geographic Board.
The elevations given are taken from the official map and other Government publications. In time all important heights will be definitely determined and marked.
It is hoped that this compilation of the names may be improved from year to year. Further facts about any of the names would be welcomed by the editor of this work.
=Ada Creek.= A tributary of Huckleberry Creek near the northern boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Adelaide Lake.= Near the north-central boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Affi Falls.= In Lodi Creek, in the north-central portion of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Alice Falls.= In Spukwush Creek, in the northwestern portion of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Alki Crest.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. The name is from the Chinook jargon meaning "by and by."
=Allen Lake.= See Lake Allen.
=Alta Vista.= A point near the snow line on the south-central slope. It was named by John P. Hartman, who visited the place with a Tacoma party in 1889. The name is Spanish and means "high view."
=Anvil Rock.= On the southern slope, near the upper Cowlitz Glacier. The name is descriptive, but who suggested it has not been ascertained. Elevation, 9,584 feet above sea level.
=Arthur Peak.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=August Peak.= Near the northwestern boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Avalanche Camp.= On the north slope. Named by a member of The Mountaineers, during that club's first ascent in 1909. Elevation, 10,900 feet above sea level.
=Baker Point.= Outjutting portion of Goat Island Mountain, overlooking Emmons Glacier. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Bald Rock.= On the southeastern slope, near the Cowlitz Divide. The name is descriptive.
=Barnes Pass.= On western edge of the Park. Named in honor of the photographer, C. A. Barnes, who discovered it while with J. H. Weer and J. B. Flett.
=Barrier Peak.= A prolongation of Governors Ridge near the east-central boundary of the Park.
=Basaltic Falls.= On the southeastern slope of the mountain. One of the features of Cowlitz Park. Named by Prof. J. B. Flett and H. H. Garretson.
=Bear Park.= In the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Bee Flat.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, just south of Chenuis Mountain.
=Beehive.= Large rock on the southeast slope. It was named by Major E. S. Ingraham in 1888, who says: "It reminded me of one of those old-fashioned beehives." Elevation, 11,033 feet above sea level.
=Beljica.= An interesting peak near the road leading from Ashford to the Park. The name is a composite made up of initials. In July, 1897, a party of nine young people visiting the peak provided the name. The B was for Burgon D. Mesler, the e for any one of three--Elizabeth Drabe, Elizabeth Sharp and Elizabeth Mesler, the l for Lucy K. LaWall, the j for Jessie K. LaWall, the i for Isabel Mesler, the c for Clara Mesler, and the a for Alexander Mesler.
=Bench Lake.= In the southern portion of the Park. The land lying above the lake is called The Bench. Elevation of the lake, 4,500 feet above sea level.
=Berkeley Park.= In the north-central portion of the Park, between Burroughs and Skyscraper Mountains. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Berry Peak.= In the northwestern corner of the Park.
=Boulder Creek.= A tributary of Ohanapecosh River, in the park of the same name, on the eastern slope of the mountain.
=Boundary Peak.= Appropriately named, as it lies on the southern boundary line of the Park.
=Brown Peak.= In the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Buel Peak.= Near the east-central boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained. Elevation, 5,933 feet above sea level.
=Burnt Park.= In the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Burroughs Mountain.= On the northeast slope. It was named for the naturalist and was at first called John Burroughs Mountain.
=Butter Creek.= Flowing from the Tatoosh Range across the southern boundary of the Park.
=Camp Curtis.= On the northeast slope. Named by The Mountaineers in 1909 in honor of Asahel Curtis, leader of that club's first ascent. Elevation, 9,000 feet above sea level.
=Camp Delight.= See Camp of the Stars.
=Camp Misery.= On the southern slope of the mountain at the base of the Beehive. The name is descriptive. Elevation, 11,033 feet above sea level.
=Camp Muir.= On the southeast slope. Named by Major E. S. Ingraham, in honor of the naturalist, John Muir, who selected the temporary camping place during their ascent in 1888, because the presence of pumice indicated a shelter from strong winds. Elevation, 10,062 feet above sea level.
=Camp No Camp.= On the southeastern slope, near the summit of the mountain. It is in the saddle near the summit of Gibraltar. The name indicates a disappointed attempt at rest. Elevation, 12,550 feet above sea level.
=Camp of the Clouds.= On the south slope above Paradise Valley. Named on August 12, 1886, by Charles E. Kehoe, Charles A. Billings and George N. Talcott of Olympia. During their visit there the heavy banks of clouds parted and gave them a superb mountain view. Elevation, 5,947 feet above sea level.
=Camp of the Stars.= On the southeastern slope of the mountain, near the foot of Gibraltar. It is a narrow shelf of rocks, affording space for a dozen climbers when crowded together and "feet hanging over." It was used by one of the Ingraham parties, and H. E. Holmes says they at first called it Camp Delight on account of their joy at the first rays of morning. Elevation, about 12,000 feet above sea level.
=Canyon Bridge.= In the southeastern part of the Park. The Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River rushes through a very narrow and deep rift in the rocks. The spanning bridge gives an attractive view.
=Carbon Glacier.= This glacier begins at the foot of Willis Wall on the north face of the mountain.
=Carbon River.= About 1876 coal was discovered on the banks of this river suggesting the name, which was also later given to the glacier from which the river has its source.
=Carter Falls.= One of the beautiful features of the lower Paradise River. Named for an early guide who built the first trail to Paradise Valley. For years the Longmires collected a fee of fifty cents from each one using the trail. It was willingly paid when it was explained that the money went to the builder of the trail.
=Castle Rock.= In the northwestern portion of the Park. Named from its resemblance to an old castle. Elevation, 6,116 feet above sea level.
=Cataract Basin.= See Mist Park.
=Cataract Creek.= Flows from Mist Park to the Carbon River in the northwestern portion of the Park. About midway in its course are the beautiful Cataract Falls.
=Cathedral Rocks.= Extending southeast from the summit. It is an extensive cleaver between the upper Cowlitz and Ingraham Glaciers. Who first suggested the name has not been ascertained. Elevation, 8,262 feet above sea level.
=Chenuis Mountain.= An extensive ridge near the northern boundary of the Park. On the shoulders of the mountain rest three little lakes called Chenuis Lakes. From the northern slopes of the mountain there rises Chenuis Creek, which, near its junction with the Carbon River at the northwestern boundary of the Park, produces the beautiful Chenuis Falls. The name seems to be Indian, but its origin has not been ascertained. Elevation of the ridge, from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above sea level.
=Christine Falls.= On the lower portion of Van Trump creek. Mr. Van Trump says the falls "were named after my daughter, Christine Louise, by a friend John Hayes, of Yelm." Elevation, 3,667 feet above sea level.
=Cliff Lake.= In the south-central portion of the Park, between the Tatoosh Range and the boundary.
=Clover Lakes.= In White River Park, in the northwestern part of the Park.
=Cold Basin.= In the northern portion of the Park, just south of Grand Park.
=Colonnade.= The ridge lying between the South Mowich and the Puyallup Glaciers on the west-central slope of the mountain.
=Columbia Crest.= Name suggested by H. E. Holmes of the Ingraham party in 1891. They had spent two nights in the crater and before leaving voted on a name for the highest part of the summit, with Columbia Crest as the result. It has occasionally been called The Dome. By Stevens and Van Trump it was called Crater Peak. Elevation, 14,408 feet above sea level.
=Comet Falls.= On the southern slope of the mountain, in Van Trump Park. Elevation, 5,200 feet above sea level.
=Cougar Falls.= Near the southern boundary of the Park, in the Nickel Creek tributary of the Cowlitz River.
=Cowlitz Chimneys.= Pointed and columnar rocks on the east-central slope. Though not adjacent to the glacier or river of that name, they undoubtedly got their name from one or the other. Elevation 7,607 feet above sea level.
=Cowlitz Cleaver.= Near the southern peak of the summit. It is appropriately named, as it cleaves the higher streams of ice part of which flow into Puget Sound and the rest into the Columbia River.
=Cowlitz Divide.= A ridge running from north to south in the southeastern corner of the Park.
=Cowlitz Glacier.= Named by General Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van Trump in 1870 when they discovered it to be the source of the river by that name. It has its beginning from a group of smaller glaciers on the southeast slope of the mountain. Above the glaciers lies Cowlitz Park.
=Cowlitz River.= The name appears as early as the Lewis and Clark reports, 1805-1806, where it is spelled Coweliskee. In varying forms it appears in the writings of all subsequent explorers. A tribe of Indians by that name inhabited its valleys. The river finally flows southward into the Columbia River.
=Cowlitz Rocks.= A mass of rocks on the southeast slope, between the Paradise and Cowlitz Glaciers. The rocks were named in 1907 by the veteran guide, Jules Stampfler, who found a name necessary to satisfy the curiosity of his companies of tourists. Elevation, 7,457 feet above sea level.
=Crater Lake.= On the northwest slope. Bailey Willis gave the name in 1883. He recently wrote: "The amphitheatres which the young geologist mistook for craters are now known to be glacier basins eroded by ice." Elevation, 4,929 feet above sea level.
=Crater Peak.= See Columbia Crest.
=Crescent Mountain.= On the northern slope. The name was used by Bailey Willis in 1883. Near the foot of this mountain lies Crescent Lake.
=Cress Falls.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, near Spukwush Creek.
=Crystal Mountain.= On the southwestern slope of the mountain, overlooking Indian Henrys Hunting Ground. Elevation, 6,300 feet above sea level.
=Cushman Crest.= On the southern slope, overlooking Nisqually Glacier. Named in honor of the late Congressman F. W. Cushman, of Tacoma.
=Dege Peak.= Overlooking Yakima Park in the northern part of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Denman Falls.= On the western slope, in St. Andrews Creek. Named by Ben Longmire in honor of A. H. Denman of Tacoma, enthusiastic mountaineer and photographer.
=Devils Dream Creek.= On the southern slope of the mountain, a tributary of Pyramid Creek. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Dick Creek.= Flowing from Elysian Fields to the Carbon River in the northwestern portion of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Division Rock.= At the lower end of North Mowich Glacier, on the northwestern slope of the mountain.
=Doe Creek.= A tributary of Ipsut Creek in the northwestern portion of the Park.
=Double Peak.= Near the southeastern boundary of the Park. The height is marked at 6,200 feet. The name was suggested by its form.
=Eagle Cliff.= Overlooking Spray Creek in the northwestern portion of the Park.
=Eagle Peak.= Near the south-central boundary of the Park. Elevation, 5,955 feet above sea level.
=Echo Cliffs.= In the northwestern portion of the Park above Cataract Creek.
=Echo Rock.= On the northwest slope near Russell Glacier. Major E. S. Ingraham named it Seattle Rock because it may be seen from that city. He does not know who changed the name.
=Edith Creek.= On the southern slope, a tributary of the Paradise River. In 1907, Jules Stampfler, the guide, was getting out a series of stereopticon views and he needed a name for that creek. He does not remember Edith's full name. She was a member of one of his parties.
=Edmunds Glacier.= On the western slope. In June, 1883, the glaciers were visited by Vice President Oakes of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company and United States Senator George F. Edmunds of Vermont. One result of that trip was an order to build what has since been known as the Bailey Willis trail to the northwestern slopes of the mountain. Another subsequent result was the naming of the glacier in honor of Senator Edmunds.
=Elizabeth Ridge.= Near Crater Lake in the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Elysian Fields.= One of the beautiful park regions on the northern slope. The name was given by Major E. S. Ingraham in 1888. Elevation, 5,700 feet above sea level.
=Emerald Ridge.= On the southwestern slope of the mountain, dividing the lower parts of the Tahoma and South Tahoma Glaciers. The name is descriptive, but by whom it was first suggested has not been ascertained.
=Emmons Glacier.= On the northeastern slope. This is the largest glacier on the mountain. For a long time it was called White Glacier because it gave rise to the river of that name. The river's name came from the glacial whiteness of its waters. The present name is in honor of S. F. Emmons, who, with A. D. Wilson, made the second successful ascent of the mountain in 1870.
=Eunice Lake.= In the northwest corner of the Park near Tolmie Peak. Bailey Willis named it Tolmie Lake in 1883; but it was not so mapped officially, and the name was changed to honor Mrs. W. H. Gilstrap of Tacoma. She and her husband were frequent visitors to the Crater Lake region.
=Fairy Falls.= On the southeastern slope, in the upper waters of Stevens Creek. Elevation, 5,500 feet above sea level.
=Falls Creek.= Rises in North Park and flows across the boundary at the northwestern corner of the Park.
=Fay Peak.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, overlooking Crater Lake. Elevation, 6,500 feet above sea level. The name was given in honor of Miss Fay Fuller of Tacoma, who in 1890 was the first of her sex to attain the summit of Mount Rainier.
=Fir Lake.= A small lake in the southeastern corner of the Park.
=Fish Creek.= A tributary of Tahoma Creek in the southwestern corner of the Park.
=Fishers Hornpipe Creek.= On the southern slope of the mountain, a tributary of Pyramid creek. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Flett Glacier.= Near Ptarmigan Ridge on the northwestern slope. The name is in honor of Professor J. B. Flett of Tacoma, one of the most enthusiastic explorers of the mountain.
=Florence Peak.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Frog Heaven.= On the south-central slope of the mountain, to the west of Narada Falls.
=Frozen Lake.= In the northern portion of the Park, just south of Mount Fremont.
=Fryingpan Glacier.= There are two conflicting theories about this name. One is that some campers lost a frying pan in the river, giving it that name, which was later extended to the glacier. The other is that Professor I. C. Russell named the glacier from its fancied resemblance to a frying pan, and that the name was later extended to the river. On the east-central slope of the mountain.
=Garda Falls.= In Granite Creek, a tributary of Winthrop Creek, in the north-central portion of the Park. Named by C. A. Barnes in honor of Miss Garda Fogg of Tacoma.
=George Lake.= See Lake George.
=Gibraltar.= This famous and forbidding cliff of rock just southeast of the summit was named by the Ingraham party in 1889. Elevation, 12,679 feet above sea level.
=Glacier Basin.= On the northern slope of the mountain. It is a rather steep but attractive little park, with a small lake and good spring water. Inter Glacier is at its head and Inter Fork passes through it. Miners at Starbo Camp maintain a little waterpower sawmill, and they have for years worked at prospective mines on the slopes of the Basin. They have built a wagon road to their camp, by use of which tourists will soon become well acquainted with the beauties of Glacier Basin and the surrounding regions. Elevation, 6,000 feet above sea level.
=Glacier Island.= On the southwestern slope of the mountain. The name is descriptive, as the island lies between the lower parts of Tahoma and South Tahoma Glaciers.
=Goat Island Mountain.= On the northeastern slope of the mountain, between Emmons Glacier and Summer Land.
=Goat Island Rock.= In the lower portion of Carbon Glacier, in the northwestern portion of the Park.
=Golden Lakes.= A cluster of beautiful lakes in and near Sunset Park, close to the west-central boundary of the Park. At sundown they glow like molten gold.
=Gove Peak.= In the northwestern portion of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Governors Ridge.= Toward the east-central boundary of the Park. The name was suggested by Superintendent Ethan Allen of the Park.
=Grand Park.= A high and extensive area in the northern portion of the Park. The miles of relatively level ground, flower-strewn and ornamented with circular groves of alpine firs and hemlocks, with deer abundant every summer, make the name an appropriate one. Elevation, 5,700 feet above sea level.
=Granite Creek.= In the north-central portion of the Park. It is a tributary of Winthrop Creek.
=Grant Creek.= A tributary to Spray Creek in the northwestern portion of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Green Lake.= In the northwestern corner of the Park.
=Green Park.= North of Sourdough Mountains, in the northeastern part of the Park.
=Hall's Camp.= See Wigwam Camp.
=Hayden Creek.= A tributary of Meadow Creek in the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Henrys Hunting Ground.= See Indian Henrys Hunting Ground.
=Hessong Rock.= On the northwest slope overlooking Spray Park. It was named in honor of a photographer who lived at Lake Kapowsin.
=Hidden Lake.= Near White River Park, in the northeastern part of the Park.
=Howard Peak.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Huckleberry Creek.= Takes its rise in the Sourdough Mountains and flows northward across the boundary of the Park.
=Huckleberry Park.= At the headwaters of Huckleberry Creek in the northeastern part of the Park.
=Independence Ridge.= Extending from Chenuis Mountain to the northern boundary of the Park.
=Indian Bar.= A large gravel bar in Ohanapecosh Park on the eastern slope of the mountain.
=Indian Henrys Hunting Ground.= About 1870, a Cowlitz Indian began hunting mountain goats in that region. Henry Winsor, a pioneer mail carrier, asked his name and got an unpronounceable answer. "That's no name," said Winsor, "your name is Indian Henry." His playful joke stuck. On the map the word "Indian" is omitted, but the United States Geographic Board has voted to restore it. P. B. Van Trump said the Indian's name was Sotolick.
=Ingraham Glacier.= This beautiful glacier lies between Cathedral Rocks and Little Tahoma on the southeast slope. It was named by Professor I. C. Russell in 1896 in honor of Major E. S. Ingraham of Seattle.
=Inter Glacier.= On the northeast slope. It was named by Major E. S. Ingraham in 1886 when he attempted but failed to ascend the mountain from the north side. The name was suggested by the glacier being hemmed in by a rim of rocks.
=Ipsut Pass.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. Flowing from it to the Carbon River is a stream called Ipsut Creek. The word is said to be a form of an Indian word meaning "bear."
=Iron Mountain.= On the southwestern slope of the mountain, overlooking Indian Henrys Hunting Ground. The name describes the masses of supposed iron stain. Elevation, 6,200 feet above sea level.
=Jeanette Heights.= On the west-central slope overlooking Edmunds Glacier. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Josephine Creek.= A tributary of Huckleberry Creek, taking its rise in Green Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=June Creek.= Flows across the boundary in the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Kautz Glacier.= This glacier begins at the foot of Peak Success, the southern summit. It was named in honor of Lieutenant (afterwards General) A. V. Kautz, who attempted an ascent in 1857. The creek flowing from the glacier bears the same name.
=Klapatche Ridge.= Near the west-central boundary of the Park, between the North Puyallup River and St. Andrews Creek. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Knapsack Pass.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, a pass between Fay Peak and Mother Mountain from Mist Park to Crater Lake.
=Kotsuck Creek.= Flows across the east-central boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Lake Allen.= On the west slope of Mount Wow in the southwestern corner of the Park. To avoid confusion, it was originally named Lake O. D. Allen. The name was given in honor of the veteran botanist, who was at one time a professor at Yale University.
=Lake Eleanor.= Near the northern boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Lake Ethel.= In the north-central portion of the Park, with outlet into the West Fork of White River. The name was suggested by The Mountaineers in 1912 as a compliment to the daughter of Park Ranger Thomas E. O'Farrell.
=Lake George.= On the western slope of Mount Wow in the southwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Lake James.= In the north-central portion of the Park, with outlet into Van Horn Creek. The name was suggested by The Mountaineers in 1912 as a compliment to the young son of Thomas E. O'Farrell, Park Ranger.
=Lake Tom.= A small lake near Arthur Peak in the northwestern corner of the Park.
=Landslide.= On the northwest of Slide Mountain, in the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Lee Creek.= A tributary of Crater Creek in the northwestern portion of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Liberty Cap.= The northern peak of the summit of Mount Rainier. It has been claimed that Stevens and Van Trump gave this name at the time of their first ascent in 1870, but Mr. Van Trump says they called it Tahoma Peak. One of the early uses of the present name was by Bailey Willis, who wrote in 1883: "Over the trees near the outlet, just to the right of this pinnacle, a pure white peak towers up into the heavens; it is the northern summit of Mount Tacoma,--the Liberty Cap." Elevation, 14,112 feet above sea level.
=Liberty Ridge.= To the west of Willis Wall and overlooking the head of Carbon Glacier near the northern summit. The name was adopted in 1914 by the engineers of the United States Geological Survey who made the official map of the Park. It was suggested by John H. Williams, author of the book entitled "The Mountain That Was God."
=Little Tahoma Peak.= A towering and rugged peak on the east flank of Mount Rainier. Very few adventuresome climbers have as yet attained its summit. Elevation, 11,117 feet above sea level. The only ascent known was made by Prof. J. B. Flett and H. H. Garretson.
=Lodi Creek.= A tributary of White River, in the north-central portion of the Park. The name is said to have been given by early prospectors for minerals.
=Longmire Springs.= Near the southeastern boundary of the Park. The springs were discovered by the pioneer, James Longmire, who acquired title to the property and lived there until his death on September 17, 1897. Members of his family still maintain a resort there. The National Park Inn, a postoffice, Park offices, and other conveniences make Longmire the capital of the Park. Elevation, 2,761 feet above sea level.
=Lost Creek.= Flows across the northeastern boundary of the Park.
=Louise Lake.= In the south-central portion of the Park between Mazama Ridge and Tatoosh Range. Origin of name not ascertained.
=McClure Rock.= On the southeastern slope near Paradise Glacier. It marks the place of the tragic death of Professor Edgar McClure, of the University of Oregon, in 1897, while descending after taking barometric measurements at the summit. Elevation, 7,384 feet above sea level.
=McNealey Peak.= A part of Sourdough Mountains in the northern part of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Madcap Falls.= On the southern slope of the mountain, in the Paradise River between Narada Falls and Carter Falls.
=Maple Falls.= In a creek of the same name, near the southern boundary of the Park. The creek is a tributary of Stevens Creek.
=Marcus Peak.= A part of Sourdough Mountains in the northeastern part of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Margaret Falls.= On the southeast slope, between Cowlitz Park and Cowlitz Glacier. The name was in honor of one of the daughters of E. S. Hall, former Superintendent of the Park.
=Marie Falls.= On the southeast slope, in the upper waters of Nickel Creek. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Marjorie Lakes.= Near the north-central boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Marmot Creek.= A tributary of Cataract Creek, draining Seattle Park, in the northwestern portion of the Park. The name is for the whistling marmot, so plentiful in that region.
=Marsh Lakes.= In the southern part of the Park.
=Martha Falls.= On the southeast slope. The falls were named in honor of the wife of the late Elcaine Longmire, by Ben Longmire, the son.
=Martin Peak.= On the northwestern boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Mary Belle Falls.= On the southeast slope in the upper waters of Nickel Creek. The name was suggested by Superintendent Ethan Allen in honor of one of the daughters of E. S. Hall, former Superintendent of the Park.
=Mazama Ridge.= On the southern slope of the mountain, beginning at Sluiskin Falls. Named for the Oregon mountain climbing club whose main camp was pitched there in 1905.
=Meadow Creek.= Near the northwestern boundary of the Park. It rises near Tolmie Peak and was named by Bailey Willis in 1883.
=Mildred Point.= On the southwest slope, overlooking the foot of Kautz Glacier. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Mineral Mountain.= On the north-central slope of the mountain, overlooking Mystic Lake. The name tells the hopes of early prospectors who worked there before the National Park was created.
=Mirror Lakes.= On the southwestern slope of the mountain, in Indian Henrys Hunting Ground.
=Mist Park.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, on the shoulders of Mother Mountain. Elevation, 6,000 feet above sea level. This park is also known as Cataract Basin.
=Moraine Park.= On the northern slope, bordering Carbon Glacier. It was named by Professor I. C. Russell.
=Mosquito Flat.= In the north-central portion of the Park, near Lakes James and Ethel. The name indicates that the place was first visited at an unfortunate season. Elevation, 4,400 feet above sea level.
=Mother Mountain.= An extensive ridge in the northwestern portion of the Park. The name came from the figure of a woman in the rock on the northeastern summit of the ridge clearly seen silhouetted against the sky by those traveling on the Carbon River trail. Elevation, 6,540 feet above sea level.
=Mount Ararat.= On the southwest slope, overlooking Indian Henrys Hunting Ground. Ben Longmire writes: "I named it because I found there some long slabs of wood that had turned to stone and I thought they might have been part of old Noah's boat. I also found a stump with a ring around it as if his rope might have been tied there. It was all stone." Elevation, 5,996 feet above sea level.
=Mount Fremont.= In the northern portion of the Park at the western extremity of Sourdough Mountains. The origin of the name has not been ascertained. Elevation, 7,300 feet above sea level.
=Mount Pleasant.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, overlooking Mist and Spray Parks.
=Mount Rainier.= Named for Admiral Peter Rainier of the British Navy by Captain George Vancouver in 1792. For his own account of the discovery and naming of the mountain, see Chapter I of this book. Elevation, 14,408 feet above sea level.
=Mount Ruth.= On the northeastern slope of the mountain, overlooking the Inter and Emmons Glaciers. The name was given in honor of Ruth Knapp, daughter of the prospector who built "Knapp's Cabin," a landmark for tourists in the Glacier Basin region. Elevation, 8,700 feet above sea level.
=Mount Wow.= In the southwestern corner of the Park. It is sometimes called Goat Mountain. Elevation, 6,045 feet above sea level.
=Mountain Meadows.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. The name originated with Bailey Willis in 1883. Elevation, 4,000 feet above sea level.
=Mowich Glaciers.= On the western and northwestern slopes of the mountain are two beautiful glaciers known as North and South Mowich. The name is from the Chinook jargon, meaning "deer." Who first suggested the name has not been ascertained. Each glacier has its draining stream. These flow together, making Mowich River, which crosses the northwestern boundary of the Park. North Mowich was once called Willis Glacier and South Mowich was called Edmunds Glacier.
=Muddy Fork.= On the southeastern slope of the mountain. One of several sources of the Cowlitz River, it drains from the foot of the large Cowlitz Glacier.
=Myrtle Falls.= On the southern slope in Edith Creek, a tributary of the Paradise River. The name was given by Jules Stampfler, the guide, in 1907. Myrtle was a member of one of his parties, but he has forgotten the rest of her name.
=Mystic Lake.= On the northern slope of the mountain, between the Winthrop and Carbon Glaciers. It is a favorite place for campers who expect to attempt the ascent of the mountain on its northern slopes. Elevation, 5,750 feet above sea level. Named by Prof. J. B. Flett and H. H. Garretson on account of a mysterious temporary whirlpool seen near its outlet.
=Nahunta Falls.= On the south slope. At one time the falls had the name Marie, but it was changed at the suggestion of Secretary Josephus Daniels of the United States Navy Department. He says: "The name was familiar to me as one given by the Carolina Tuscarora to a river in North Carolina and also to their largest fort or 'head town.'" Secretary Daniels obtained from the Bureau of American Ethnology information that the name has appeared under various spellings and may mean "tall trees" or "tall timbers."
=Narada Falls.= On the south-central slope, the principal feature of the lower Paradise River. An effort was recently made to change the name to Cushman Falls in honor of the late Congressman F. W. Cushman, a strong friend of the Park. The present name is of Theosophical origin. Narada was a spiritual being worshipped by the Brahman people in India by reason of his service to the first race of men. Among modern Theosophists the word has become a metaphysical subject, the greater part of which is given to esoteric students and cannot be revealed. The word itself means "uncontaminated." The wonderful beauty of the scene, in its pure and original form, suggested the name to an early group of visitors, Theosophists, consisting of the following persons: Professor E. O. Schwägerl, Mr. and Mrs. George A. Sheffield, Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Knight, Miss Ida Wright (now Mrs. Vern Mudgett), Mrs. Addie G. Barlow and Mr. Henry Carter. Elevation, 4,572 feet above sea level.
=National Park Inn.= At Longmire Springs near the southwestern entrance to the Park. This attractive hotel has frequently been so overrun with guests that numerous tents have been used for sleeping quarters. These are placed in the groves of pines and firs on the bank of the Nisqually River. Many trips to interesting parts of the mountain are made from the Inn. Elevation, 2,761 feet above sea level.
=Natural Bridge.= In the north-central portion of the Park. Many photographers have scrambled to the scene of this natural curiosity. Elevation, 5,400 feet above sea level.
=Needle Creek.= Near the east-central boundary of the Park. It is a tributary of Kotsuck Creek and takes its rise near the sharp cliffs of Cowlitz Chimneys, which may have suggested the name "Needle."
=Needle Rock.= On the northwest slope, overlooking the North Mowich Glacier. The name was given by Professor J. B. Flett from its supposed resemblance to Cleopatra's Needle. Elevation, 7,587 feet above sea level.
=Nisqually Glacier.= The large glacier flowing from the southern flank of Mount Rainier. It was named by Stevens and Van Trump in 1870 when they found it to be the source of Nisqually River.
=Nisqually River.= Rising at the foot of Nisqually Glacier, it flows southwesterly through the Park and empties into Puget Sound between Tacoma and Olympia. It was mentioned in the Journal of John Work of the Hudson's Bay Company, as early as 1824. The first settlement by white men on Puget Sound was made by the Hudson's Bay Company near its mouth in May, 1833. That trading post was called Nisqually House. Rev. Myron Eells, the talented missionary, says the word comes from the native word, "Squally-o-bish," from the tribe of that name.
=North Mowich.= See Mowich.
=North Park.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. Elevation, about 5,000 feet above sea level.
=Northern Crags.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, overlooking Elysian Fields.
=Observation Rock.= On the northwest slope near Flett Glacier. In 1885 it was named Observation Point by Prof. L. F. Henderson. An extensive view of western Washington is to be had from its top. Elevation, 8,364 feet above sea level.
=Ohanapecosh Glacier.= On the east-central slope of the mountain. Below the glacier lies the beautiful Ohanapecosh Park, from which flows the river of the same name, which passes out of the Park at the northeastern corner of the boundary. The name is Indian, but its meaning has not been ascertained.
=Old Desolate.= A ridge in the northwestern portion of the Park between Moraine and Vernal Parks.
=Ollala Creek.= In the southeastern corner of the Park. The name is from the Chinook jargon, meaning "berries."
=Owyhigh Lakes.= Near the east-central boundary of the Park. The Yakima had a great war leader, Chief Owhigh, and this is apparently an honor for him. See narrative by Theodore Winthrop in this book,