Chapter 19

One quart of milk, three and a half sheets of Cooper's isinglass, half a teaspoonful of salt, three table-spoonfuls of sugar and a four-inch piece of stick cinnamon. Break up the isinglass, put it and the cinnamon with the milk, and let stand in a cold place two hours; then put it in the double boiler and let it come, gradually, to the boiling point. It must not boil. Stir often while heating. As soon as the isinglass is dissolved, take from the fire, and add the salt and sugar. Strain into a tin basin, which place in a pan of cold water. Stir occasionally while cooling. When nearly cold, turn into a mould and place in the ice chest. It can be poured into the mould as soon as strained, but the cream will rise to the top in that case, unless the mixture is stirred carefully in the centre of the mould. The sheets of isinglass vary in thickness, so that it is best to take part of die thick sheets and part of the thin.

Chocolate "Blanc"-Mange.

One package of gelatine, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, one (ounce) square of Baker's chocolate, three pints of milk. Soak the gelatine two hours in the milk, and then put it in the double boiler. Scrape the chocolate fine and put it in a small frying-pan with two spoonfuls of the sugar and two of boiling water. Stir this over a _hot_ fire until smooth and glossy (it will take about a minute), and stir into the milk. Add the remainder of the sugar, and strain. Turn into moulds, and set away to harden. This dish should be made at least eight hours before being used. If you please, you can add a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. By adding the chocolate to any of the preparations for blanc-mange while they are hot, you have a chocolate "blanc"-mange.

Cream à la Versailles.

One quart of milk, half a cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, half a teaspoonful of salt, seven eggs, two table- spoonfuls of water. Put the sugar in a small frying-pan and stir until a very light brown. Add the water, stir a moment longer, and mix with the milk. Beat the eggs and salt with a spoon. Add this mixture and the vanilla to the milk. Butter a two-quart charlotte russe mould lightly, and put the custard in it Put the mould in a basin of warm (not hot) water and bake slowly until the custard is firm in the centre. It should take forty minutes; but if the oven is quite hot, it will be done in thirty minutes. Test by putting a knife down into the centre, for if the custard is not milky, it is done. Set away in a cold place until serving time. It must be ice cold when eaten. Turn out on a flat dish, and pour caramel sauce over it.

Royal Cream.

One quart of milk, one-third of a box of gelatine, four table- spoonfuls of sugar, three eggs, vanilla flavor. Put the gelatine in the milk, and let it stand for half an hour. Beat the yolks well with sugar, and stir into the milk. Set the kettle in a pan of hot water and stir until the mixture begins to thicken like soft custard. Have ready the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; and the moment the kettle is taken from the fire, stir them in, quickly, and turn into the moulds. Set away in a cold place to harden.

When you cannot get cream, to make charlotte russe, this is a good filling, if you omit the whites of eggs, and fill the moulds when the cream is perfectly cold, but not hardened.

Lemon Sponge.

The juice of four lemons, four eggs, one cupful of sugar, half a package of gelatine, one generous pint of cold water. Soak the gelatine two hours in half a cupful of the water. Squeeze the lemons, and strain the juice on the sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs and mix them with the remainder of the water. Add the sugar and lemon to this, and cook in the double boiler until it begins to thicken; then add the gelatine. Strain this mixture into a tin basin, which place in a pan of ice water. Beat with the whisk occasionally, until it has cooled, but not hardened. Now add the unbeaten whites of the eggs, and beat all the time until the mixture begins to thicken. Let it thicken almost to the point where it cannot be poured, and then turn into a mould and set away to harden. Remember that the whites of the eggs must be added as soon as the mixture cools, which should be in about six or eight minutes, and that the mixture must be beaten until it begins to harden. The hardening is rapid after it once begins, so that it will be necessary to have the moulds all ready. The sponge will not be smooth and delicate if not poured into the moulds. If for any reason you should get the mixture too hard before pouring, place the basin in another of hot water, and let the sponge melt a little; then beat it up again. Serve with powdered sugar and cream.

Orange Sponge.

Make orange sponge the same as lemon, using a small pint of water and the juice of six large oranges.

Peach Sponge.

One pint of canned peaches, half a package of gelatine, the whites of five eggs, one scant cupful of sugar, one and a half cupfuls of water. Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a cupful of the water. Boil the cupful of water, and the sugar fifteen minutes. Hash the peaches fine, rub through a sieve, and put in the syrup. Cook five minutes, stirring all the time. Place the sauce-pan in another of boiling water and add the gelatine. Stir for five or eight minutes, to dissolve the gelatine; then place the sauce-pan in a dish of ice water and beat the syrup until it begins to cool. Add the whites of the eggs, and beat until the mixture begins to harden. When it will just pour, turn it into the mould, and set away to harden. Serve with sugar and cream. Apricot and pear sponges can be made in the same manner.

Strawberry Sponge.

One quart of strawberries, half a package of gelatine, one cupful and a half of water, one cupful of sugar, the juice of a lemon, the whites of four eggs. Soak the gelatine two hours in half a cupful of the water. Mash the strawberries, and add half the sugar to them. Boil the remainder of the sugar and the cupful of water gently twenty minutes. Rub the strawberries through a sieve. Add the gelatine to the boiling syrup and take from the fire immediately; then add the strawberries. Place in a pan of ice water and beat five minutes. Add the whites of eggs and beat until the mixture begins to thicken. Pour into the moulds and set away to harden. Serve with sugar and cream. Raspberry and blackberry sponges are made in the same way.

Pineapple Sponge.

One small fresh pineapple, or a pint-and-a-half can of the fruit; one small cupful of sugar, half a package of gelatine, one cupful and a half of water, the whites of four eggs. Soak the gelatine two hours in half a cupful of the water. Chop the pineapple, and put it and the juice in a sauce-pan with the sugar and the remainder of the water. Simmer ten minutes. Add the gelatine, take from the fire immediately, and strain into a tin basin. When partially cooled, add the whites of the eggs, and beat until the mixture begins to thicken. Pour into a mould and set away to harden. Serve with soft custard flavored with wine.

Strawberry Bavarian Cream.

One quart of strawberries, one pint of cream, one large cupful of sugar, half a cupful of boiling water, half a cupful of cold water. Soak the gelatine two hours in the cold water. Mash the berries and sugar together, and let them stand one hour. Whip the cream to a froth. Strain the juice from the berries, pressing through as much as possible without the seeds. Pour the hot water on the gelatine, and when dissolved, strain it into the strawberry juice. Place the basin (which should be tin) in a pan of ice water and beat until the cream begins to thicken. When as thick as soft custard, stir in the whipped cream; and when this is well mixed, turn into the mould (it will make nearly two quarts), and set away to harden. Serve with whipped cream heaped around it, or, if the border mould is used, have the cream in the centre.

Raspberry and blackberry Bavarian creams are made the same as the strawberry.

Orange Bavarian Cream.

A pint and a half of cream, the juice of five oranges and grated rind of two, one large cupful of sugar, the yolks of six eggs, half a package of gelatine, half a cupful of cold water. Soak the gelatine two hours in the cold water. Whip the cream, and skim off until there is less than half a pint unwhipped. Grate the rind of the oranges on the gelatine, Squeeze and strain the orange juice, and add the sugar to it. Put the unwhipped cream in the double boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs and add to the milk. Stir this mixture until it begins to thicken, and add the gelatine. As soon as the gelatine is dissolved, take off, and place in a pan of ice water. Stir until it begins to cool (about two minutes), and add the orange juice and sugar. Beat about as thick as soft custard, and add the whipped cream. Stir until well mixed, and pour into the moulds. Set away to harden. There will be about two quarts. Serve with whipped cream heaped around the orange cream.

Peach Bavarian Cream.

One quart of canned peaches, one large cupful of sugar, one pint of cream, half a box of gelatine, half a cupful of cold water. Mash the peaches and rub them and the juice through a sieve. Add the sugar. Soak the gelatine two hours in the cold water. Whip the cream to a froth. Put the peaches in a sauce-pan and let them simmer twenty minutes. Stir often. Add the gelatine to the hot peaches and remove from the fire immediately. Place the sauce-pan in a pan of ice water and beat until the mixture begins to thicken; then stir in the cream. Mix thoroughly, and pour into the mould. Set away to harden. Serve with whipped cream. Apricot and pear Bavarian creams are made in the same way.

Pineapple Bavarian Cream.

One pint of canned pineapple, one small tea-cupful of sugar, one pint of cream, half a package of gelatine, half a cupful of cold water. Soak the gelatine two hours in the water. Chop the pineapple fine and put it on with the sugar. Simmer twenty minutes. Add the gelatine, and strain immediately into a tin basin. Rub as much of the pineapple as possible through the sieve. Beat until it begins to thicken, and add the cream, which has been whipped to a froth. When well mixed, pour into the mould, and put away to harden. Serve with whipped cream.

Almond Bavarian Cream.

One pint and a half of cream, one pint of blanched sweet almonds, one- fourth of a teaspoonful of essence of almond, half a package of gelatine, three eggs, one small cupful of sugar, half a cupful of milk. Soak the gelatine two hours in the milk. Whip the cream to a stiff froth, until about half a pint is left unwhipped. Pound the almonds to a paste in the mortar. Put the almonds and unwhipped cream in the double boiler. Beat the sugar and eggs together and stir in with the cream and almonds. Cook until the mixture begins to thicken; then stir in the gelatine, and remove from the fire. Strain this into a tin basin, and add the essence of almond. Beat until it begins to thicken, and add the whipped cream. Mix well, pour into the moulds, and set away. Serve with whipped cream. Pistachio Bavarian cream is made in the same way, using one pint of pistachio nuts instead of the almonds, and omitting the essence of almond.

Chocolate Bavarian Cream.

One pint of cream, one cupful of milk, half a cupful of sugar, half a box of gelatine, one square of Baker's chocolate (an ounce). Soak the gelatine in half a cupful of the milk. Whip the cream to a stiff froth. Scrape the chocolate, and add two table-spoonfuls of the sugar to it. Put in a small frying-pan with one table-spoonful of hot water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. Have the remaining half cupful of milk boiling. Stir the chocolate into it, and add the gelatine. Strain into a tin basin, and add the remainder of the sugar. Place the basin in a pan of ice water and beat the mixture until it begins to thicken; then add the whipped cream; and when well mixed, turn into the mould. When hard, serve with whipped cream heaped around.

Coffee Bavarian Cream.

One cupful of strong coffee, one pint of cream, half a package of gelatine, one cupful of sugar, one-third of a cupful of cold water. Soak the gelatine two hours in the cold water. Pour on this the coffee, boiling hot, and when the gelatine is dissolved, add the sugar. Strain into a tin basin, which put in a pan of ice water. Beat with a whisk until it begins to thicken; then add the cream, which has been whipped to a froth. When thoroughly mixed, turn into a mould and set away to harden. Serve with sugar and cream.

Directions for Freezing.

Four the mixture that is to be frozen into the tin can, put the beater in this, and put on the cover. Place in the tub, being careful to have the point on the bottom fit into the socket in the tub. Put on the cross-piece, and turn the crank to see if everything is in the right place. Next comes the packing. Ice should be broken in large pieces, and put in a canvas bag, and pounded fine with a mallet. Put a thick layer of it in the tub (about five inches deep), and then a thin layer of salt. Continue this until the tub is full, and pack down solid with a paddle or a common piece of wood. After turning the crank a few times add more salt and ice, and again pack down. Continue in this way until the tub is full. For a gallon can, three pints of salt and perhaps ten quarts of fine ice will be required. Remember that if the freezer is packed solid at first, no more ice or salt is needed. The water must never be let off, as it is one of the strongest elements to help the freezing. If more salt than the quantity given is used, the cream will freeze sooner, but it will not be so smooth and rich as when less is used.

Turn the crank for twenty minutes--not fast at first, but very rapidly the last ten minutes. It will be hard to torn when the mixture is frozen. Turn back the cross-piece, wipe the salt and ice from the cover, and take off the cover, not displacing the can itself. Remove the beater and scrape the cream from it. Work a large spoon up and down in the cream until it is light and the space left by taking out the beater is filled. Cover the can, cork up the hole from which the handle of the beater was taken, put on the cross piece, and set the tub in a cool place until serving time. Then dip the can for a few seconds in water that is a trifle warm, wipe it, and turn on the dish. Rest it for a moment, and lift a little.

If the cream is to be served from a mould, remove it when you do the beater. Fill the mould and work the cream up and down with a spoon. This will press the cream into every part, and lighten it. Cover the top of the mould with thick white paper, put on the tin cover, and bury in fresh ice and salt.

There are a great many good freezers. The Packer is especially suited to family use. It turns so easily that any lady can make her own creams. For the first twelve minutes a child can work it. It is made of the best stock, and will last many years. The cogs on freezers should be oiled occasionally. When you have made cream, see that every part of the freezer is clean and perfectly dry before putting away.

Vanilla Ice Cream.

The foundation given in this rule is suitable for all kinds of ice cream. One generous pint of milk, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of flour, _scant_; two eggs, one quart of cream, one table- spoonful of vanilla extract, and when the cream is added, another tea- cupful of sugar. Let the milk come to a boil. Beat the first cupful of sugar, the flour and eggs together, and stir into the boiling milk. Cook twenty minutes, stirring often. Set away to cool, and when cool add the sugar, seasoning and cream, and freeze.

Vanilla Ice Cream, No. 2.

One pint of sugar, one of water, three pints of cream--not too rich, the yolks of five eggs and one large table-spoonful of vanilla extract Boil the sugar and water together for twenty-five minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs with one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt Place the basin of boiling syrup in another of boiling water. Stir the yolks of the eggs into the syrup, and beat rapidly for three minutes. Take the basin from the fire, place it in a pan of ice water and beat until cold. Add the vanilla and cream, and freeze.

Lemon Ice Cream.

Make the same as vanilla cream, and flavor with one table-spoonful of lemon extract.

Lemon Ice Cream, No. 2.

Three tea-cupfuls of sugar, the juice of three lemons, three pints of cream, the yolks of eight eggs, one pint of water. Boil the water, sugar and lemon juice together twenty minutes; then proceed as directed for vanilla ice cream, No. 2.

Orange Ice Cream.

Follow the second rule for lemon cream, but use the juice of six oranges instead of that of lemons.

Pineapple Ice Cream.

Make the same as vanilla, and flavor with a teaspoonful of extract of pineapple.

Pineapple Ice Cream, No. 2.

Pare a pineapple and cut it fine. Put it in a sauce-pan with one pint of water and a scant pint of sugar. Simmer gently for thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add the cream, gradually, and freeze.

Strawberry Ice Cream.

One quart of cream, one quart of strawberries, one pint of sugar. Mash the sugar and strawberries together, and let them stand one or two hours. Add the cream, rub through a strainer into the freezer, and freeze. Or, the cream can be made the same as the vanilla cream, and when half frozen, the whole berries be stirred in.

Strawberry Ice Cream à la Surprise.

Put three pints of strawberries in a deep dish with one cupful of sugar. Season three pints of cream with a cupful and a half of sugar and two table-spoonfuls of wine. Freeze this. Take out the beater and draw the frozen cream to the sides of the freezer. Fill the space in the centre with the strawberries and sugar, which cover with the frozen cream. Put on the cover and set away for an hour or more. When the cream is turned out, garnish the base, if you please, with strawberries.

Raspberry Ice Cream.

Make raspberry ice cream the same as strawberry, using a little less sugar.

Apricot Ice Cream.

One quart of cream, one generous pint of canned apricot, one pint of sugar, the yolks of three eggs, one pint of water. Boil the sugar and water together twenty minutes. Rub the apricot through a sieve and add it to the boiling syrup; add also the beaten yolks of the eggs, and cook for six minutes, stirring all the while. Take from the fire and place in a pan of cold water. Beat the mixture ten minutes. If cold at the end of that time, add the cream, and freeze.

Peach Ice Cream.

Peach ice cream can be made like the apricot, having the pint of peaches a very generous one.

Banana Ice Cream.

Make this the same as the apricot, using, however, only one cupful and a half of sugar, and six bananas. More bananas can be used if a strong flavor of the fruit is liked.

Chocolate Ice Cream.

Make a foundation with two eggs, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of flour and a pint of milk, the same as for vanilla ice cream. While this is cooking, scrape one square (an ounce) of Baker's chocolate, and add to it two table-spoonfuls of sugar and one of boiling water. Stir this over the fire until perfectly smooth and glossy, and add it to the boiling mixture. This quantity gives a very delicate flavor. If a stronger one is wished use two squares of the chocolate. Put the mixture in cold water to cool. Stir occasionally. When cold, add one tea-cupful of sugar and one quart of milk. Freeze.

Brown Bread Ice Cream.

Dry the crust of brown bread in a warm oven. Roll fine and sift. Add one pint of the crumbs to the preparation for vanilla ice cream. The vanilla, and two-thirds of the second cupful of sugar must be omitted.

Macaroon Ice Cream.

Make a cream the same as for vanilla, except omit the second cupful of sugar and the vanilla flavor. Brown one dozen and a half macaroons into the oven. Let them cool; then roll them into fine crumbs. Add these and three table-spoonfuls of wine to the cream, and freeze.

Coffee Ice Cream.

Make the same as vanilla, with the addition of one cupful of strong coffee. This gives a strong flavor. Less can be used. The second cupful of sugar should be large.

Caramel Ice Cream.

Make the hot mixture, as for vanilla. Put the small cupful of sugar in a small frying-pan and stir over the fire until the sugar turns liquid and begins to smoke. Turn into the boiling mixture, and put away to cool. When cold, add one quart of cream. Strain the mixture into the freezer, and freeze. The flavor of this cream can be varied by browning the sugar more or less.

Almond Ice Cream.

This is made the same as vanilla, except that one teaspoonful of extract of bitter almond is used for flavoring.

Almond Ice Cream, No. 2.

One pint of blanched almonds, the yolks of five eggs, one quart of cream, one and a half cupfuls of sugar, one pint of milk, one pint of water. Boil the water and sugar together for twenty-five minutes. Put the almonds in a frying-pan and stir over the fire until they are a rich brown. Remove from the fire, and pound to a paste in the mortar. Cook the milk and powdered almonds in the double boiler for twenty minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs and stir them into the boiling syrup. Beat this for four minutes, having the basin in boiling water. Take from the fire, and gradually beat into it the almonds and milk. Strain the mixture through a sieve, and rub through as much as possible. Stir occasionally while cooling. When cold, add the cream and half a teaspoonful of extract of almond. Freeze.

Pistachio Ice Cream.

One pint of pistachio nuts, half a cupful of blanched almonds, one quart of cream, one pint of water, one scant pint of sugar, the yolks of five eggs, one pint of milk, spinach green enough to give a delicate color (about a heaping teaspoonful-to be cooked with the nuts). Make the same as almond cream.

Walnut Ice Cream.

One pint of the meat of walnuts (the American are the best), pounded fine in a mortar; one pint of milk, one quart of cream, two small cupfuls of sugar, four eggs, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt. Beat the eggs with one cupful of sugar. Put them and the milk in the double boiler, and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken; then add the salt, and put away to cool. When cold, add the cream and nut meat, and freeze.

Cocoanut Ice Cream.

One quart of cream, one pint of milk, three eggs, one cupful and a half of sugar, one cupful of prepared cocoanut, the rind and juice of a lemon. Beat together the eggs and the grated lemon rind, and put with the milk in the double boiler. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the cocoanut, and put away to cool. When cool, add the sugar, lemon juice and cream. Freeze.

Fig Ice Cream.

One quart of milk, two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, one of gelatine, one pint of cream, a cupful and a half of sugar, three eggs, two cupfuls of figs, cut fine; one table-spoonful of vanilla. Put the milk in the double boiler, reserving half a cupful. When it is _boiling_, stir in the corn-starch, which has been mixed with the cold milk. Cook ten minutes. Beat the eggs and sugar together. Pour the cooked mixture on this, stirring all the time. Return to the fire, add the gelatine, which has been soaking in four table-spoonfuls of cold water, and cook three minutes. Set away to cool. When cold, add the cream and vanilla, and freeze. When the cream has been freezing ten minutes, take off the cover and stir in the figs. Cover again and freeze until hard. Take out the beater, and with a large spoon, pack the cream smoothly. Set away until serving time.

Glacé Méringue.