Part 3

Sailing toward the West of _Portland_, we saw several _Porpisces_ playing with their Heads above Water; which I mention only, because the Seamen look upon them as fore-runners of a Storm; the Wind soon after blowing very hard at North by East. And afterwards arriving at _Constantinople_, the Wind blowing a stiff Gale at North, I observed with a pleasing kind of astonishment good part of the _Propontis_, that is, from the _Seraglio Point_ toward the Islands, which lye against the _Bay of Nicomedia_, Eastward and South-East from us, as far as we could see, covered as it were with _Porpisces_, which appeared every where in great abundance. So that I am very apt to believe that _Julius Solinus_ in _Chap._ 12. of his _Polykister_ is to be understood of _Porpisces_, and not of _Dolphins_, now properly so called, though that be his Word, speaking of the _Bosphorus_ and _Propontis_: _Hæc profunda Delphinas plurimos habent_: and soon after, _ante omnia nihil velocius habent maria, sic ut plerunque transvolent vela navium_. I could not hear that any _Dolphins_ are caught in those Seas by the _Greeks_, whose Poverty, added to the love which their Nation has for Fish, and the advantage arising thence, upon the account of their solemn Fasts and Abstinences from all Flesh, even to a wonderful strictness and scrupulosity, has made them excellent Fishermen: nor did I ever see any in their Fish-Markets, or see one of them brought to the Ambassador's Table by the Proveditor for curiosity: Though otherwise it is an excellently well tasted Fish, especially when soused. I allow, that they will swim very swiftly, as do the _Porpisces_; and that they will follow a Ship for several Leagues together: but then they Swim somewhat deep in the Water, sometimes are catch'd, though not often. The Seamen have reached them with a Fisgig, a kind of barbed Iron, at the End of a Pole tied fast to a Rope, and have made good Chear with them. But this is only my Conjecture, with which I end my Journal.

_Deo Servatori Laus._

_Historical Observations relating to _Constantinople_. By the Reverend and Learned _Tho. Smith_, D. D. Fellow of _Magd. Coll. Oxon._ and of the _Royal Society_._

_Constantinople_, formerly _Byzantium_, was[1] by _Constantine_ the Great, called so after his own Name, who being mightily pleased with the beautiful and advantageous situation of the Place between two Seas, and defended by narrow Streights on both sides, removed the Seat of the Empire hither, and laid the foundation of its future Splendor and Greatness. It was also by a[2]special Edict or Law of the same Emperor, which he caused to be engraven on a Marble Pillar, placed near his own Statue on Horse-back, in one of the Piazza's of his new built City called _Strategium_, where the Soldiers used to Muster, as in the _Campus Martius_, called _second or new Rome_, in emulation of old _Rome_, which he designed and endeavoured this should equal in all things. Accordingly he endowed it with the same Priviledges and Immunities, and established the same number of Magistrates and Orders of People, and divided the whole extent of it into fourteen Precincts or[3]Regions, according to the division of _Rome_. And the _Greek_ Writers were as elegant and extravagant in their commendations of it; but the usual Title in their ordinary Discourses and Writings, when they had occasion to mention it without any flourish, was ἡ βασιλευούσα, ἡ βασιλίς, that is, the Imperial City, to the same sense with that of[4]_Sidonius Apollinaris_,

_Salve sceptrorum columen, Regina orientis, Orbis Roma tui._

The Country about it was afterwards called _Romania_ in a limited and restrained sense, (for that _Romania_ was anciently the same with _orbis Romanus_, seems clear from[5]_Epiphanius_) and the People Ρωμαῖοι. But I suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the Empire, when it began to decline. The _Greeks_ still retain this Name. For if you ask any of the _Greeks_ born upon the Continent of _Thrace_, what Country Man he is? he answers forthwith, Ρωμαῖος _Romios_, for so they pronounce it. The _Turks_ in like manner call a _Greek_ Christian _Urum Gaour_, or the Roman Infidel, as they will call sometimes the Emperor of _Germany_, _Urumler Padisha_ or Emperor of the _Romans_. Hence it was, that the latter _Græcian_ Emperors stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ρωμαίων, Kings of the Romans, that is, such as were Born in _Romania_ and the other Countries, which made up the Eastern division of the Empire. Tho' perchance by this flourishing Title they pretended a right to the Government of the West: Upon which vain presumption they assumed also the Title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or Emperors of the World, as if they had been the true Successors of _Augustus_, and the Western Emperors, Usurpers, whom they called by way of contempt and indignation, Ρῆγες, Reges, as[6] _Luitprandus_ informs us in the accompt of his Embassy to _Nicephorus Phocas_, and afforded the People of _Italy_ no other Title than that of[7]_Longobards_ or _Lombards_. The present _Greeks_ call all the Western Christians Λατῖνοι or φράγγοι _Latins_ or _Franks_, the _Turks_ only making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and calling _Christendom_ _Phrenkistan_, in the present _Greek_ φραγγία. The _Turks_ now as proudly call _Constantinople_ _Alem pena_, or the refuge of the World: Where indeed seems to be a medley of all or most Nations of three parts of it, and of all Religions, which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the Empire, except the _Persian_. For they look upon it as a corruption of, and deviation from the Rules and Doctrine of _Mahomet_, their great false Prophet, and therefore absolutely forbid it, as repugnant to, and destructive of the Doctrine of Life and Salvation, as they speak. And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the Professors of it, who pretend to follow _Ali_, as Sectaries and Apostates, and entertain worse Opinions of them, than of _Christians_, or _Jews_ or _Infidels_. The _Persians_ are not behind-hand with them in their hatred and disrespect, deriding them as gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than barbarous; Interest and Zeal for their several Tenets heightning their differences so much, that in time of War they destroy one anothers _Moschs_. I remember, that there was a great Discourse in _Constantinople_ among the _Turks_ concerning an impudent hot-headed _Persian_, who publickly in the new _Mosch_ built by the Mother of the present Emperor, asserted that _Ali_ was equal to _Mahomet_. But it seems he very luckily made his escape out of their Hands, at which the Priests and the more zealous _Turks_ were very much scandalized.

The _Greeks_ have twenty six Churches within the Walls of the City, besides 6 in _Galata_, of which I have given an Account elsewhere. They have also two Churches at _Scutari_, one at _Kadikui_ or _Chalcedon_. So at _Staurosis_, _Chingilkui_, and several other Villages upon the Asian Shore off the Bosphorus, as at _Beshictash_, _Ortakui_, _Chorouch chesme_, which Church is dedicated to St. _Michal_ the Archangel, _Jenikui_ or _Neochorion_, _Therapia_, _Bujukdere_, and other Villages on the _European_ side. They have also a Church at _Haskui_, where is their Burying place, and another near the _Bagnio_, dedicated to St. _Parasceve_. And at _Tatoula_ about a Mile from _Pera_, upon a Hill, which from the Name of the Church is thence called by the _Greeks_ and _Franks_, St. _Demetrius_ his Hill. Next to the holy Virgin, St. _Demetrius_ and St. _George_ have most Churches dedicated to them.

The _Armenians_ have not, if I remember aright, above seven Churches; they being few in number in comparison of the _Greeks_.

The _Jews_ may have in the City and places adjacent between twenty and thirty Synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed contemptible People in the Grand Signiors Dominions, next to _Caire_ and _Saloniki_: and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty thousand families of them. They are of great use and service to the _Turks_, upon accompt of their Brocage and Merchandise, and Industry in several mechanical Trades. All these I look upon as Natives, or Slaves rather, each paying mony for his Head every year. The _Jews_ indeed very wisely collect this Tax among themselves, and according to an agreement made with the _Teftardar_ or Treasurer, pay a certain sum in gross for their whole Nation residing there: by which piece of cunning they are great gainers, and spare the poor among them less able to pay, by a contribution of the rich to make up the sum. The _English_ and _Dutch_ Ambassadors have their Chappels in their Palaces common to their respective Nations.

The Churches and Chappels of the Western _Christians_ of the _Roman_ Communion in _Galata_, are

St. _Peters_, belonging to the _Dominicans_, where is the famous piece of _Madonna di Constantinopolis_ as the _Italians_ call it, or of the blessed Virgin, holding the holy Child _Jesus_ in her arms: which they pretend to be drawn by the hand of St. _Luke_, celebrated by some of the latter Ecclesiastical Writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of respect to this idle tradition the credulous and superstitious _Latins_ and _Greeks_ of the _Roman_ Communion shew great veneration to it, which otherwise hath little in it of proportion, art, or beauty, to derive any reputation upon the designer, or upon his work.

St. _Francis_, belonging to the _Conventuali_, Friars of the order of St. _Francis_; the ground of this by the wise conduct and intercession of _Caviliere Molino_, the Venetian _Bailo_, after the surrender of _Candia_, upon the Peace made by the Republick with the Grand Signior, was procured to be restored, and a handsome Church rebuilt with the large contributions of mony sent out of _Christendom_.

St. _Benedict_, belonging to the _Jesuits_, where is a rich Altar curiously adorn'd with several figures in _Mosiack_. This Convent was purchased for them by their great Benefactor, _Henry_ the fourth of _France_.

St. _Mary_, belonging to the _Observantines_ or _Zoccolanti_, a branch of the order of St. _Francis_, so called from their going in _Zoccoli_ or wooden clogs.

The _Capuchines_ have a little Chappel dedicated to St. _George_, hard by the _French_ Ambassadors Palace.

St. _Ann_, a Chappel frequented by the _Perotes_.

St. _Paul_ and St. _Anthony_, were both taken away some years since from the _Christians_, and turned into _Moschs_. The former of which is now known by the name of _Arab Giamesi_, or the Mosch of the _Arabians_. Our Interpreters mentioned also to me the Church of St. _John_, which the _Turks_ have seized upon for their use, St. _George_, which the _Jews_ are possest of, and St. _Sebastian_, which was used to be visited chiefly on Holy days.

The North-wind blows for the most part at _Constantinople_. Which must be ascribed to its nearness to the _Euxine_ Sea, which bears that point from it. So that for want of a Southwardly wind Ships have been forced to lye a month or two sometimes near the mouth of the _Hellespont_. This was taken notice of long since by _Eunapius_ in the life of _Ædesius_, who ascribes the seldom blowing of the _South_ wind to the situation of the mountains, whereas it is checked and overpowered by the exuberance of the Vapours continually sent forth from the _black_ and _great Sea_, as the _Greeks_ call it in comparison of the _Mediterranean_. _Vide ad finem Codini de origin. Constantinopol. Edit. Paris. Pag. 80._

The _Hellespont_ is about forty miles in length, and at the Castles of _Sestos_ and _Abydos_ the streight may be about three quarters of an English mile over, or less.

The length of the _Propontis_ is about a hundred and fifty miles, both shores may be seen in the middle of it. In it are,

_Cyzicus_, an Island near the _Asian_ shore, to which it is joined by two bridges. It still retains its ancient name Κυζικὸ, and is the seat of a Bishop, being inhabited by a considerable number of _Greeks_.

_Proconnesus_, not far from the former; now, as for some centuries past, called _Marmora_, from the excellent quarries of Marble there found, the marmor _Cyzenicum_ also being famous in the time of _Pliny_.

_Besbychus_, now called by the Greek καλόλιμνο, or the good haven, not far from the entrance into the bay of _Montanea_ to the North and by East. The _Turks_ call it _Imralme_.

There are several Islands over against the bay of _Nicomedia_, formerly called _Sinus Astacenus_, according to _Strabo_, about six or seven leagues from _Constantinople_.[8]

_Prote_, so called because they approach first to it, coming from _Constantinople_; to the South of this _Prencipe_ and _Pytis_, which I take to be the same with _Pyrgos_, that lyes inmost toward the bay: _Chalcitis_, in modern Greek, _Chalce_ or _Chalcis_. _Oxia_ and _Platy_ to the North-west. I have expressed the _Turkish_ names of the lesser and uninhabited islands elsewhere, which perchance were phantastically imposed by some _Franks_.

The _Seraglio_ is at the extreme point of the North-east Angle of _Constantinople_, where formerly stood old _Byzantium_, within which towards the Haven is a stately _Kiosk_ or summer house, from whence the _Grand Signior_ usually takes Barge, when he passes into _Asia_, or diverts himself upon the _Bosphorus_, at which time the _Bostangi Bashi_, who hath the principal care of the Emperors palace, and hath the command of the _Bosphorus_, sits at the helm and steers.

The seven Towers are at the South-east extremity.

The only Suburbs are to the North-west, along the Haven-side; for above the hill, where the three walls begin, lies an open champaign Country, except that here and there at considerable distances farm houses are scatter'd.

The Haven runs in from the West, and so opens East.

At the East end of _Galata_ is _Tophana_, where they cast their great Guns.

_Pera_ and _Galata_ have about six gates to the Seaward. The whole tract of ground was anciently, before the times of the Emperor _Valentinian_, who enclosed and fortified _Galata_ with walls and towers, styled Περαῖα or Regio _Peræa_ being πέραν τῆς πόλεως, on the other side of the City to the North, which is the reason of its name, seated on higher hills, and whose ascent is more steep and difficult.

Our modern _Geographers_, such as _Mercator_ and _Ortelius_, who herein follow _Ptolomy_, place _Constantinople_ in the Latitude of 43. degrees and 5 minutes: the _Arabian_ and _Persian Astronomers_, as _Abulfeda_, _Nassir Edin_, _Vlugh Beigh_, and so the πρόχειροι κανόνες, _Chrysococcas_ translated out of the _Persian_ tables, place it more Northerly in 45. But by latter and better observation it is found, that they have erred in assigning the Latitude of this City, as of several other places. To salve these differences, there is no just ground of pretence to say, that the _Poles_ are moveable and have changed their situation since their time, whereas it may better be imputed to their want of due care, or to their taking things upon trust, from the reports of _Travellers_ and _Seamen_, not having been upon the places themselves: which certainly is to be said for _Ptolomy_ whose observations, as to places more remote from _Alexandria_, are far from being accurate and true. The learned Mr. _John Greaves_, as I find in a Manuscript discourse, very worthy of being Printed, which he presented to the most reverend and renowned _Arch-bishop Usher_, took the height of the _Pole_ at _Constantinople_ with a brass sextant of above 4 feet _radius_, and found it to be but 41 degrees 6´. but by the observation we made in our Court-yard at _Pera_ with a very good _Quadrant_ we found it but 40 degrees and 58 minutes of North Latitude.

There is no place between the _Propontis_ and the walls of the City, except just at the Seraglio-point, which may be two hundred paces in length; where they have raised on a platform a battery for Great guns; but from the point to the end of the Haven West, the space to the gates is unequal in some places about twenty paces broad, in others three or four times as many more.

The distance between _Constantinople_ and _Chalcedon_ upon the opposite _Bythinian_-shore may be about three or four miles.

In the Walls are engraven the Names of several Emperors, who reigned toward the declension of the _Græcian_ Empire, as _Theophilus_, _Michael_, _Basilius_, _Constantius Porphyrogenitus_, by whose care, and at whose expence the several breaches caused in them by the Sea or by Earthquakes, were repaired.

_Kumkapi_ or the sand-gate lies toward the _Propontis_; this the _Greeks_ call in their vulgar language Κονδοσκάλι, _Contoscalium_, or the little scale or landing-place. Here formerly was an Arsenal for Gallies and other small vessels; it being a convenient passage over Sea. Over this Gate was anciently engraven a curious Inscription still preserved in that excellent collection published by[9]_Gruterus_.

_Jedicula Kapi_, or the Gate of the seven Towers, so called from its nearness to that _Acropolis_, is that, I guess, which the _Greeks_ formerly called χρυσῆ or the Golden Gate, and by some late _Latin_ Writers _Chrysea_, in _Luitprandus_, _Carea_, by a mistake either of the Transcriber or Printer, for _Aurea_, for so certainly it must be mended. Over this Gate was this inscription,

_Hæc loca Theudosius decorat post fata Tyranni, Aurea secla gerit, qui portam construit auro._

cited by _Sirmond_ in his notes upon[10]_Sidonius_. This Gate is in the twelfth Region, and was also called ὡραῖα from its beautiful and curious structure.

The Gun gate formerly called Roman gate, not because it leads towards the continent of _Romania_ or _Thrace_, but from[11]St. _Romanus_, where the last Christian Emperor was killed at the assault which the _Turks_ made to force their Way into the City by it.

Near _Adrianople_ gate is a fair large _Mosch_ called _Ali-bassa_, upon a hill accounted the highest in the City.

The distance between tower and tower in the upper wall to the landward may be about ninety of my paces; the space between that and the second wall about eighteen paces over.

The place, where the _Lyons_, _Leopards_, and such like wild creatures are kept, (where I saw also several _Jackalls_) was formerly, as the _Greeks_ told me, a Christian Church dedicated to Παναγία or the Blessed Virgin, where this Verse is still legible,

Κατὰ Σκυθῶν ἔπνευσας θερμὸν ἐν μάχαις.

There is no tide or running back of the water on any side of the _Bosphorus_ into the black Sea, as[12]some have imagined, whose mistake might possibly arise hence, that the wind being at North, and blowing hard, the current sets more violently at such times against the several headlands jetting out into the channel, which admits of several turnings, and so the waters are forced back to some little distance: or else because when the South-wind freshens and grows boisterous, it makes a high rolling Sea in the _Propontis_ and _Bosphorous_, and being contrary to the current, gives a check to it, so that it becomes less sensible, and is easily stemmed. Where it is narrowest, the distance seems to the eye to be scarce a mile over from one shore to another; where broadest, not much above a mile and a half, unless where it runs into the deep Bays, which by reason of their shallowness only harbour Boats.

The channel certainly is natural and not cut by art, as some have idly fansied, not considering, how the _Euxine_ Sea should discharge it self otherwise of those great quantities of waters, poured into it by the _Ister_ and _Tanais_, now called _Don_, and the other Rivers, whereby it becomes less salt, even very sensibly to the taste, than several parts of the _Mediterranean_.

The Fish, by a strange kind of instinct, pass in vast shoals twice a year, Autumn and Spring, through the _Bosphorus_, that is, out of one Sea into another, of which the _Greeks_, who live several months of the year upon them, take great numbers, and supply the markets at easie rates; the Cormorants and other ravenous water-fowl, which the _Turks_ will not suffer to be destroy'd or otherwise molested, preying upon them.

The weather in some months is very inconstant, great heats and colds happening the same day upon the change of the wind.

The winters at _Constantinople_ are sometimes extraordinary severe. I have heard it related by several old _Greeks_, as a thing most certain that the _Bosphorus_ was frozen over in the time of _Achmed_, and that a Hare was coursed over it. It hapned thus, that upon a thaw huge cakes of Ice came floating down the _Danube_ into the black Sea, and were driven by the current into the _Bosphorus_, whereupon the return of the frost, they were fixed so hard that it became passable. In the year 1669 there was Ice in the Haven to the great amazement of the _Turks_; and some were so frighted at this unusual accident, that they lookt upon it as a dismal prodigy, and concluded, that the World would be at an end that Year. The _Aguglia_ or _Obelisk_ in the _Hippodrome_ is betwixt fifty and sixty Foot high.

The Historical Pillar in _basso relievo_, raised in honour of the Emperors _Arcadius_ and _Honorius_, may be in height about an hundred seven and forty feet.

_Alexius Comnenus_ lies buried in the Patriarchal Church against the wall, and his daughter _Anna Comnena_, the Historian, who lived about the year of Christ 1117. They pretend to shew there the reliques of St. _Anastasia_, who suffered Martyrdom under the Emperor _Valerianus_, and of St. _Euphemia_, Virgin and Martyr, who lost her life most gloriously for _Christ's_ holy religion at _Chalcedon_ under _Dioclesian_.

In _Sancta Sophia_ there are pillars so great, that a Man can scarce fathom them at twice. At the end of the Gallery, that joins the other two, each about thirty of my paces wide, there is a piece of transparent Marble, two or three Inches thick. In the North gallery upon the Pavement is a reddish sort of a Marble Stone, brought, as the _Turks_ and _Christians_ relate, from _Palestine_, on which they Fable, that the blessed Virgin used to wash the linnen of our Saviour.

I observed but one step from the Body of the Church to the _Bema_ or place where the Altar formerly stood.

The great _Mosch_ at _Chasim-bassa_ on _Pera_ side to the West, was formerly a Church dedicated to St _Theodosia_.

_Gianghir_, a Mosch so called, upon a hill at _Fondaclee_ near _Tophana_.

In _Constantinople_ there are several narrow streets of Trade, closed up with sheds and pent-houses, which I suppose were in use before the _Greeks_ lost their Empire, and are the same with the σκεπαστοὶ καὶ φρακτοὶ δρόμοι in _Chrysaloras_ his[13]Epistle. But besides these places, several Trades have their distant quarters. The streets are raised for the most part on each side for the greater convenience.

Not far from _Suleimania_ is the house of the _Aga_ or General of the _Janizaries_, which so often changes its Masters.

_Pompey_'s pillar, as the _Franks_ erroneously call it, is of the _Corinthian_ order, curiously wrought, about eighteen foot in height and three in Diameter.

_Beshiktash_, a Village within three or four miles of _Constantinople_ towards the _Bosphorus_, where lies buried the famous Pirate _Ariadin_, whom the _Christian_ Writers call _Barbarossa_, who built here a handsome Mosch, having two rows of Pillars at the entrance. The Captain _Bassa_ usually, before he puts to Sea with his Armata of Gallies, visits the Tomb of this fortunate Robber, who had made several thousand _Christians_ Slaves, and makes his Prayers at the neighbouring Church for the good Success of his expedition.