Part 2

This conjecture, how likely or unlikely soever, will stand or fall according to the certainty of the _Observations_, which shall be made there, which I will endeavour to procure in order to the further establishment, or utter overthrow of it.

13. We weighed out of _Tangier_ and turned into the _Strait_, though against the Wind. The distance between _Gibraltar_ Cape, which gives name to the _Straits_, and is joyned to the Continent of _Spain_ and _Ceuta_ a well-built and strongly fortified Town, lying under the Hill _Alybe_, called so by the _Greeks_, which the Seamen commonly call, as do some _Spanish_ Writers, _Apes-hill_, from the great number of Apes which used formerly to haunt there, (at which places _Hercules_ is feigned to have set up his Pillars) may be about six Leagues; tho' both Lands lying very high (for we saw the Clouds much below them) it does not appear in the middle of the Current, out of a tall Ship, scarce half so broad.

14. Little Wind stirring.

15. A great Mist all the Sea over, so that we could scarce see three lengths of the Ship, which began to vanish in the Afternoon; and than we descryed the _Cape of Malaga_ at about four Leagues distance; and came to an Anchor that Night. The City lies under a high Hill, and is the Seat of a Bishop, who is at this time a Natural Son of King _Philip_ the Fourth, of the Order of St. _Dominic_. Here the Merchants told us, that it had not rained for seven Months together, except a day or two for an Hour: and that the _Algerines_, who were then breaking with us, had not been able to have set a Fleet to Sea about two years before, if they had not been furnished with Masts from _England_; and that they were now in Expectation of another Ship laden with the same, notwithstanding the Rupture, which was as good as began. I only make a Query, Whether _Jews_ or _English_ Men were the Freighters?

16. The next Morning the Governour immediately returned our Salute Gun for Gun: soon after we weighed from _Malaga_ Road, the Weather very hot. Some Rain fell at Night, though very moderately. In the Evening, after we had sailed about eighteen Leagues, we were becalm'd. The Sea being quiet, we saw a great number of _Tortoises_ swimming above Water, several _Bottle-noses_, fish of about three yards long, and very thick, and Hawks flying over to the _Barbary_ Coast. The Hills of _Granada_ were seen plainly by us, though at a great distance.

The Wind coming Easterly, we kept at Sea, beating and plying to and again for these four days, scarce gaining sixteen Leagues of our way, and were forc'd to come to an Anchor in the _Bay of Adera_, where there is a strong Cittadel, about thirty four or thirty five Leagues from _Malaga_.

21. We passed by _Cape de Gata_: but the Levant wind still blowing, having continued almost in that Point for above two Months, as we computed from what they had told us at _Tangier_, we could make but little progress in our Voyage.

25. Between three and four of the Clock in the Morning the Tornado's began to blow, and the Wind violent for the time, with such continued Flashes of Lightning for several hours, as that the whole Sky seemed to be on fire, intermixed with terrible Claps of Thunder, after which followed great showers of Rain.

25. The Wind still contrary, we descryed _Cape St. Martin_ at about fifteen Leagues distance. Tacking about and standing off to Seaward, next Morning 27. we found that we had lost about three Leagues of our way.

28. We were athwart _Orlando's Gap_ within two Leagues of the Shore, _Cape St. Martin_ bearing off us _N._ by _W._ The Wind now still; but a swelling Sea coming from the Westward, which is usual before a Wind, which drives the Water before it.

On _Michaelmas-day_ we were up with the Island _Ivica_, or _Ivise_, as the Mariners call it, and the Wind blowing fair, we stood our Course; and the next day at Noon we made the _Island Majorca_, situate over against the Kingdom of _Valentia_, and came to an Anchor in the _Bay_ of the City, being forced in hither for want of fresh Water. In the Afternoon the Boat was sent on shore; but the Vice-Roy would not give us Prattick, not bringing a Patent from _Malaga_.

_Octob. 1._ The Secretary was sent with the King's Pass to the Vice-Roy to demand Prattick, who presently summoned the Officers of the _Sanita_. After long Debates and Delays they consented, and came to the _Mole_ to receive him. He went directly to the Governour to acquaint him, that we were ready to Salute the City with what number of Guns he pleased, if he would engage upon his Honour to give us as many. He replied, that he would give us three for five; and wondered, that we being but a single Ship, should make such a Demand. The Secretary told him, That we were to be treated as an Admiral, having a Flag on our Maintop; and that the Governour of _Malaga_ had done it. To this he said, That _Majorca_ was a Kingdom, that he was the King's Representative, and that by Reason of the Miscarriage of his Predecessor, when Monsieur _de Beaufort_, the _French_ Admiral was there, he had received strict Orders from _Madrid_ not to do the like. The Secretary replied, That we had an Ambassador on board, and had as strict Orders, and should answer as severely for the Breach of them. His last Answer was, That we might, with our Sails loose, keep before the Town, till we had furnished our selves with what we wanted. Upon receiving this Message, the Ambassador dispatched away one _Joseph Gabriel Cortez_, a _Spaniard_, but employed by the _English_ Merchants trading to that Island, then on board our Ship, to acquaint him, That when we were ready to go away, we would loose our Sails, and not before. We landed within the _Mole_; the Walk upon it about four or five Yards broad; at the Extremity of which is a very large and stately Gate, which leads into the City. We went into the great Church, somewhat wider than _Westminster-Abbey_, but darkish within: the Portal very magnificent, adorned with several Marble Statues in Niches one over another. The High Altar very plain and unadorned: but others extraordinary rich and glorious. Not far from the City are several Mills to grind their Olives, Oyl being the great Commodity of the Island.

2. The next Morning we weighed, without taking any kind of notice of the Town, sailing all along in sight of the Island, which presented us with a pleasing and delightful Prospect; the Valleys, lying under the Hills, fruitful of Wine and Corn. The whole Island is judged to be about sixty Leagues in Compass, and in length about fifteen: which we sailed from the Westermost Point, where lies the Isle _Dragovera_, at a very little distance to the Eastermost, where there is built a small Fort. To the S. S. E. lie several little Islands, called the _Cabreas_; between which and _Majorca_ we steered.

3. We were athwart _Port Maon_ in _Minorca_; a fine level Country, having but one Hill in it N. W. by W. as it bore off us. In the Evening the Wind very scant.

4. This day, as yesterday, excessive hot.

5. In the Afternoon we descryed the Main Land of _Provence_.

6. We were over against the Islands _Hieres_ and the Highland of _Thoulon_.

7, 8. These two Days becalmed; and the Sea extraordinary smooth.

9. We were over against the Westermost part of the _Alpes_, which we distinctly saw at about twenty Leagues distance, and appeared far higher than the Hills of _Granada_.

10. We sailed by _Final_ and _Ventimiglia_.

12. We came in the Morning to an Anchor over against the _Mole_, and not far from the Lantern in _Genoa_. Having obtained Prattick of the _Maestri della Sanita_, after a little demur about the Salute, the Senate being assembled, and some of them protesting upon their Honours, and ready to produce their Registers, that they never saluted the Ship wherein was an Ambassador of _France_ or _Spain_, as not taking any notice of the Person who did bear that Character, 'till they had first intimation, that the Ship was arrived in their Port by its saluting the Town. It was agreed that the Ship should Salute the Town with eleven Guns, which they were to answer, as they did, with an equal number: and after a little pause, they saluted the Ambassador with nineteen more, which was answered with as many. After this, the Duke and Senate sent the Master of the Ceremonies to wait upon the Ambassador: who going away, returned soon after with a Present of Calves, Fowl, Wine, Sweetmeats, _&c._ and acquainted his Lordship, that they had deputed six of their Gentlemen to Complement him, and wait upon him; which Civility he thought fit to refuse, desiring to be _Incognito_. But however, going ashore, he was welcomed by the _Illustrissimi Signiori_, the _Durazzo's_, two Brothers, the elder of which had been Ambassador for the Republick, in the Court of _England_, and the other at _Constantinople_, and by them carried to see the _Villas_ out of Town. The figure of _Genoa_ is Semicircular, beginning from the Lantern Westward, lying under an high Hill, upon the rising of which the several Houses, built of Marble, afford a very fine Prospect, and add much to the Beauty and Glory of the place. _Strada nuova_ perchance is the most stately Street in the whole World. The new Church of the _Annunciata_, built by the _Lomellini_, where a thousand may go up the stairs abreast at the same time, for curious Painting, rich Altars, and exactness of Architecture, incomparable. The _Duome_ also and the Church of the _Theatins_ very stately and curious. Other matters I purposely omit.

14. In the Evening we set Sail from _Genoa_.

Becalmed for the most part these three Days, though helped somewhat forward by the Breezes that blew off the shore after Sun set.

18. In the Afternoon we made the Island _Gorgonia_, about nine Leagues from _Livorne_; a little round Island, with a Castle on the top.

19. In the Morning we came to an Anchor in _Livorne_ Road, about a Mile from the Town: the Road large and secure, especially to the Northward. The Ambassador keeps on Board, the Governour refusing to Salute the Ship first, though he had formerly saluted the _French_; pretending that every Convoy might carry a Flag; and alledging that his Master, the Grand Duke, was as great and absolute, as the Republick of _Genoa_: and that they had rather throw themselves upon the King of _England_, than do a thing which might prove of such an ill Consequence. Sir _John Finch_, his Majesty's Resident, together with Sir _Thomas Baines_, came from _Florence_ to Complement the Ambassador, and immediately dispatched away a Courier to the Grand Duke about the Salute; who referred the whole Affair to the Governor: and he making a Protest that he was ready to pay all the respect which was due to the Ambassador's Character and Quality, upon the fore-mentioned Pretensions, six days, after our arrival, absolutely refused to Salute the Ship first.

_Livorne_ is the great Magazine of Trade for the _Levant_, being a free Port: Merchants of all Countries residing here, _Armenians_ especially, and _Jews_; which latter enjoy great Priviledges, without wearing any distinct Mark in their Hats or Habits, whereby they may be known. They are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religion: their Synagogue large and handsome. The Port inward has a _Mole_ for the Duke's Galleys and other small Vessels to ride in: the Entrance of which is chained up every Night. Hard by is the Statue of Duke _Ferdinand_ in Marble, raised upon an high Pedestal; under which are four Slaves in Brass, in different Postures, very large, and above the ordinary proportion, but done with exquisite and admirable Art. Two Castles to the Seaward well fortified: the Town Walls very high, and the four Gates strongly guarded: below which is a Ditch of about fifteen or twenty yards over, and very deep. No Stranger is allowed to view the Works, nor Souldier permitted to come out of the Castles. About four thousand Slaves are there, as the Merchants told us, who are lockt up in the _Bagno_ every Night. The _Piazza_, where the Merchants meet, is adorned with Marble Pillars, which sustain the Porticos: at the East end of which is the great Church whose Roof appears very glorious, having several Circles richly gilded and painted with curious Figures.

The broad Street is paved between two and three yards on each side with Free-stone.

27. In the Afternoon we weighed out of _Livorne_ Road, and sailed by the Islands _Gorgonia_ and _Capraria_, seeing _Corsica_ at a distance.

28. We lay beating at Sea all this Day, the Wind being contrary.

29. This Day we were forced back, the contrary Winds still continuing.

30. We weighed a second time, and sailed by three small Islands, _Capraria_, _Planasia_, and _Monte Christi_. We saw also _Gigio_ and _Sanuti_, two other small Islands near the Main: but we made but little way, by reason of ill Weather for 4 or 5 Days.

_Novemb. 5._ At Evening we saw the Eruptions of Fire from _Stromboli_, which lies to the N. W. of _Sicily_. Sometimes it flamed very bright Light as a _Beacon_, at other times there appeared only a glorious kind of Light, like that of an ordinary Star when the Air is thick and hazy. They say that it flames most in rainy Weather.

6. In the Morning we were up within a League of it, and plainly perceived it to smoke. It is of a round figure, and, as we gathered, may be about three or four Miles in compass. It bore W. by S. of us. Not far from it lye scattered several other Islands, called by the Ancients _Æoliœ_ and _Vulcaniœ_: among which are _Lipara_, a long flattish Island, and _Vulcanello_, which smokes most. This Afternoon we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water in the _Phare_ of _Messina_, in the mid Stream between _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_: a violent and strong Current setting against us, and the Wind not high enough, so as to be able to stemm it. The breadth of the _Strait_ from _Messina_ to _Rhegium_ may be about a League. The Land is very high on the _Calabrian_ side, where are very steep Rocks, and great depth of Water, above 150 Fathom, as they told us: but on the _Sicilian_ side, near _Charybdis_ Shole-water, and usually an Eddy. On the Sandy Banks stands the Phare or Watch-tower. Several Currents meeting in this narrow Passage, cause a great rippling of the Water: and great quantity of Water coming in, as the Winds drive, in great quantity meeting with the Shole, is broken into Waves. The Eddies here are caused by the meeting of the different Currents by which the Waters are sometimes carried N. and sometimes S. the great danger is, lest they drive the Ship on either side. We have had Lightning for seven or eight Nights together.

7. We sail'd by _Ætna_, now called _Mongibel_, where the Sea widens ten or eleven Leagues over. Now we see plainly the Smoke briskly issuing out of the _Crater_, the _Limbus_ of which was all black. The uppermost part of the Mountain was covered with Snow, except some streaks of Ashes, as we judge, which lie as it were in a Gutter, spread here and there.

8. We espied a _Saettia_ at about 3 Leagues distance, and making up to her, found her forsaken. The Captain sent several Seamen on board, and carried the Vessel to _Smyrna_.

Scanty Wind for several Days: and the Lightning still continued.

13. We were up with _Cape Modona_, the Southernmost Cape of the _Morea_, and sailed by _Coron_. The Land very high, the Hills of _Arcadia_ lying Eastward from us. The Weather excessive hot at this time, as it is in _England_ at _Midsummer_. We espied from our Maintop-mast five Sail of great Ships, which we supposed to be _Tripolines_, who did not think fit to come up and speak with us. But afterward we heard for certain, that they were part of the _Venetian_ Fleet.

14. We lay for the most part becalmed over against _Cape Matapan_: but in the Evening the Wind blowing fresh, we sailed between the Island of _Cerigo_ and the Main Land of _Greece_; it being about three Leagues over to _Cape Angelo_.

15. We entred the Arches, and steered through the North Channel, leaving _Melo_ and _Antimelo_ on the Starboard-quarter, at some Leagues distance.

16. Betimes in the Morning we were athwart _Negropont_, and sailed between it and _Andros_. The _Bocca_ lies S. W. and N. E.

17. We sailed by _Chios_ or _Scio_, which is very mountainous toward the middle. It is about four Leagues distant from _Cape Caraboroun_, or the _Cape of the black Nose_, as the _Turkish_ word signifies, which the Seamen, in their usual way of corrupting Names, call _Cape Jobbernoule_, the _Corinœum_ of the Ancients, a Promontory of the famous Mountain _Mimas_, which runs along the Southern side of the _Bay of Smyrna_.

This Day the _Smyrna_ Fleet from _England_ comes up to us very luckily, to our great Satisfaction and Joy.

18. We are now got into the _Bay of Smyrna_, and come to an Anchor without the Castle, not far from St. _Jacomo's Point_, as the Seamen call it, or rather _Sangiac Point_. In the Afternoon the Consul, with several Gentlemen of the Factory, came to wait upon my Lord Ambassador, and desired his Lordship to defer his Entrance into _Smyrna_ till the Twentieth, that he might be received with greater Honour. That Evening we heard a great howling of _Jackalls_ upon the Hills.

20. The Consul with the Nation, accompanied with his _Druggermen_ and _Janizaries_ in their _Habit_, together with several _French_, _Dutch_ and _Genoese_ Merchants, residing in that famous Emporium, came to the Village near the Castle, who there expected us with Horses. Upon our going ashore, the _Leopard_ fired fifty one Guns. We made about 140 Horse; and immediately upon our setting forth, we rode for about three Miles together under the Hill to the S. W. of _Smyrna_; the places adjoyning set thick with Olive, Fig, and Almond-trees. Afterwards we clambered over some rocky Ascents; but the Horses of the Country being sure-footed, we were in no danger of falling. Some little way we were forced to ride on the Sea-shore, and soon after came to the Jews burying place, whose Monuments lie flat upon the ground. As soon as we entred into the City, we found the Streets full of _Greeks_, _Armenians_, _Turks_, and _Jews_, whom Curiosity had drawn together to see and observe our Cavalcade; the _English_ Ships, which were in the _Bay_, firing their Guns, as we past near the Shore. And so after three hours riding the Ambassador was brought to the Consul's House, where Lodgings were provided for him. During our stay we met with not only kind, but very noble Entertainment from the worthy Gentlemen of the Factory.

_Decemb. 8._ We took our leave of _Smyrna_, being accompanied by the Consul and Merchants on board the _London-Merchant_, Capt. _John Hill_ Commander, the _Leopard_ being ordered to go no further than _Smyrna_, it being feared in _England_, that if she had sailed up to _Constantinople_, the _Turks_ might have press'd her for their Service in _Candia_, which they were then besieging.

9. This Morning we weighed betimes, and sailed between _Scio_ and _Mytilene_. But on the

10. We were forced back near the long Island within the Bay, being unwilling to go to _Scio_, the _Tripolines_ and _Turkish_ Galleys lying there. Here we lay ten Days, expecting a fair Wind.

20. The Wind coming about and favouring us, we sailed a second time between _Scio_ and _Mytilene_.

21. We past by _Lemnos_, and were up with the Island _Tenedos_; a fine Champaign Country, only with one Hill toward the middle of it. The Castle to the N. E. part of the Isle: over against which lye three small Islands in a strait Line. Here we came to an Anchor. We saw the Ruins of _Troas_ at a distance, but did not think it safe to go ashore.

22. The Wind coming about at S. we entred the _Hellespont_, which may be about two Leagues and a half over. The Castles built upon the opposite points of Land, about 11 or 12 Years before, after the great Defeat given the _Turkish Armata_ at the _Dardanels_ by the _Venetians_; _Cape Janizary_ on the _Asian_ side; which, with the _Philæum_, makes a tolerable good Bay for ordinary Vessels. The narrowest Strait of the _Hellespont_ is at the two other Castles, distant about six Leagues, where it may be about ¾ of a Mile wide. These the _Christians_ call the _Dardanelli_; at which are situate the Towns, _Sestus_ and _Abydus_, famous in _Greek_ Poesie. These Castles we saluted with our Guns and Trumpets, as we did the first: but each, whether out of Pride, or out of Covetousness, to save the _Grand Signior_'s Powder, return'd us no more than two Guns. The Wind blowing very fair we sailed into the _Propontis_.

23. We passed by St. _Stephano's Point_, where we had a full view of the S. E. Angle of _Constantinople_, which being situated upon several Hills to a mighty advantage, what with the Cypress-Trees intermixed, and what with the gilded Spires of the _Moschs_, yielded us a very diverting glorious Prospect. Passing by the _Seraglio Point_, which we saluted by a discharge of several Guns, in the mid Stream between it and the _Tophana_, we came to an Anchor.

26. On St. _Stephen_'s Day the Ambassador landed at _Galata_, (having before been visited by the Earl of _Winchelsea_, and the Merchants residing there) and was received there by the _Chiaus Basha_ and the _Vaivod_ of _Galata_, the _Janizaries_ and _Chiauses_ attending, and was waited upon by them to his Palace: and soon after the _Kaimacam_, or Governor of _Constantinople_, sent an Officer to Complement him upon his Arrival; the _Grand Signior_ being then at _Larissa_ in _Thessaly_.

_January 2._ The Ambassadors, Old and New, went over to _Constantinople_, that Morning being assigned by the _Kaimacam_ to give them Audience, the _Chiaus Basha_ and other Officers attending at the Water-side to receive them; Horses being brought thither for them and their Followers to mount. This _Kaimakam Jusuph_, a little old Man, had formerly been a Page of the Chamber, and chief Falconer, and afterwards _Basha_ of _Silistria_. He entertained the Ambassadors and their Company with Perfumes, Coffee, and Sherbet, and distributed about fifteen _Koftans Orrests_ among them: after about an Hours stay they took their leave.

Being upon the Coasts of _Greece_ about _August_ or _September_ 69. in the Latitude of 35°. 53´. we found by our _Azimouth_ Compass, that we had Westerly variation there 5°. 22´.

The variety of Colours of the Sea-Water at several times chiefly depends upon the Wind and Weather, and the reflexion of the Light upon it. It's usual and most natural Colour is a deep Green: but in Cloudy and Rainy Weather, the Surface of the Water appears blackish. On the _Goodwins_ upon the Tide of Flood, the Water was white, the Waves by reason of the Shallows, meeting with opposition, and breaking into Foam, till the Flood is well advanced. Sometimes the Water is of a perfect Azure colour, as we observed for several Weeks in the _Mediterranean_. The Sun shining bright upon the Water, sometimes the upper part of the Waves appears Purplish, sometimes Reddish; though in Shallows perchance it may receive this latter Tincture also from the Sands which lie under it. When the Wind has freshened, and the Ship has been under full Sail, I have observed the Waves to the head, and at the sides of the Ship, to appear with a pale kind of brightness: and at _Malaga_, and at my return, going on board our Ship, which lay about half a League from the shore, at Night, the Wind then at East, the Boats Crew letting their Oar fall roughly into the Water, diverted us as it were with the sight of a continued Flame, raised by their rowing; which I ascribe rather to the Saline Particles of the Sea-Water, which were then put into a violent Agitation, than to the Spawn of Fish, as some of our Company imagined.