Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal

A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross the bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The Dead...

Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Count...

Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.--The co...

Villa of Mosolente--The route to Venice.--First view of that city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning scene on the grand canal.--Church of Santa Maria della Salut...

A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the Gallery.--Relics of ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A Medusa’s h...

Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini’s music.--Another excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean hills.--N...

Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical associations.--The Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain Gro...

Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of Rariti...

We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon gleamed through the casements, and the stars...

Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals formerly celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossa...

Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Gaspar Poussin’s landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--T...

Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The great Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to St. Bruno....

The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was spangling the surface of the lake, which spreads itself between steeps of wood, crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We...

Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.--The Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular t...

Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the spacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherd...

Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur Van Lencren’s collection.--The Canon Knyff’s house and gallery of paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic felicity.-...

Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive rage for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley of Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.--Degener...

Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by Me...

Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of Pine.--Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception at the Convent.--Wild Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cel...

Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The Place de Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, contrast...

Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night sounds of the city.--Public gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvello...

Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand fair at Munich.--The Elector’s country palace.--Court Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden and tea-room.--Hoydening festivities there....

Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A Storm--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village of Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited plains on its m...

Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King’s sleeping apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of...

As I was doomed to be disturbed and talked out of the elysium in which I had been lapped for these last seven or eight hours, it was no matter in what position, whether on foot...

I was hardly up before the grand prior and Mr. Street were announced: the latter abusing kings, queens, and princes, with all his might, and roaring after liberty and independen...

It was furiously hot, and I trifled away the whole morning in my pavilion, surrounded by fidalgos in flowered bed-gowns, and musicians in violet-coloured accoutrements, with bro...

Thick forest of beech trees.--Fearful glimpses of the torrent.--Throne of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of the Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched ai...

Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary shore.--Scene of the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.--Return to the Place of St. Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles for anonym...

A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.--Curious assemblage in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Bocc...

Never did I behold so fine a day, or a sky of such lovely azure. The M---- were with me by half-past six, and we rode over wild hills, which command a great extent of apparently...

Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit to the Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.--The Archbisho...

The winds are reposing themselves, and the surface of the Tagus has all the smoothness of a mirror. The clouds are dispersing, for it rained heavily in the night, and the sun ti...

Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence of the choir.--Charles the Fifth’s organ.--Crucifix by Cell...

The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic Sermon.--The good Prior of Avis.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking ef...

The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.--Temptation of St. Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by Berghem and Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable produc...

I had long wished to revisit the holt of trees so conspicuous on the summit of Saleve, and set forth this morning to accomplish that purpose. Brandoin an artist, once the deligh...

Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous city of Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music on the inhabitants of the Islands.--Solitary fields infested by s...

Bolsano.--Indications of approaching Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance of the Peasantry.--A forest Lake.--Arrive at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the Venetian State.--...

Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious...

Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal depredators.--Arrival at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three Wise Sovere...

Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge of the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected with those mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to Bologna.--Magnificent...

Rambles in the Valley of Collares.--Elysian scenery. Song of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the Prince of Brazil[20] in the plains of Cascais.--Con...

Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famou...

Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the Village of Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance of the Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--D...

Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He catches cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is in commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate with the Sin...

I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the writings of this holy and highly-gifted personage when the dinner appeared, consisting of everything most delicate which a stric...

Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed to Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of the Fanale.

The mountains I saw yesterday are called the Sierra de los Gregos, and the winds that blow over their summits begin to chill the atmosphere; but the sun is shining gloriously, a...

Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d’Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d’Aranda’...

Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Si...

Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer’s enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Na...

Arrival at Miaxadas.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.-...

Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures by Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt shown by the Austrians to the memory of the House of Medici.--Evening...

Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of a...

Hitherto I have had no reason to complain of my accommodations in travelling through Portugal. A mandate from the governor procured me milk this morning for my breakfast, much a...

It began to rain just as we entered the chalet under the beech-trees, and one of the dirtiest I ever crept into--it would have been uncharitable not to have regretted the absenc...

My lord the prior, not favouring a prolonged survey, I reluctantly left this beautiful court, and was led into a low gallery, roofed and wainscoted with cedar, lined on both sid...

Grand gala at Court, and the Marquis gone to attend it; for this blessed day not only gave birth to Guildermeester, but to the Princess of Brazil. We went to dine with the March...

The principal personages who had so piously distinguished themselves yesterday dined with me this blessed afternoon. Old San Lorenzo has a prodigious memory and a warm imaginati...

Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn to Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A winding valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A suppo...

Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend one of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from its brow.--Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of a Prince...

I was at the Marialva Palace by nine, and set off from thence with the Marquis for Cintra. Having the command of the Queen’s stables, in which are four thousand mules and two th...

Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petti...

Adieu to the tranquillity of Cintra, we shall soon have nothing but hubbub and confusion. The queen is on the point of arriving with all her maids of honour, secretaries of stat...

M. de Viloison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian’s master-piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo.-...

It is in vain I call upon clouds to cover me and fogs to wrap me up. You can form no adequate idea of the continual glare of this renowned climate. Lisbon is the place in the wo...

One of the best informed and pleasantest of Spaniards, the Chevalier de Roxas, who had been very intimate both with Verdeil and me at Lausanne, came in a violent hurry this morn...

Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d’Alcala.--The Prado.-...

It is not at every corner of life that we stumble upon an intrinsically singular character: to-day however, at Noronha’s, I fell in with a Saxon count,[27] who justly answers to...

Till to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea covered with mists, and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I have not yet been able to mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di...

Here my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I got up much earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder that our holy ancestors did not choose a mountain at o...

The splendour of the rising sun, for once in my life, drew little of my attention. I was too deeply plunged in my reveries, to notice the landscape which lay before me; and the...

Scott came this morning and took me to see the consolidated mines in the parish of Gwynnap; they are situated in a bleak desert, rendered still more doleful by the unhealthy app...

It was a heavy damp morning, and I could hardly prevail upon myself to quit my fireside and deliver the archbishop’s most confidential despatches to the Portuguese ambassador Do...

Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an infidel in the German style.--Mass in the chapel of the Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba’s villa.--Destruction by a...

The Queen of Portugal’s chapel is still the first in Europe; in point of vocal and instrumental excellence, no other establishment of the kind, the papal not excepted, can boast...

To-day we were engaged to dine in the country at a villa belonging to a gentleman, whose volley of names, when pronounced with the true Portuguese twang, sounds like an expector...

The kind, indefatigable Roxas came to conduct us to the Museum and Academy of Arts. It consists of seven or eight apartments, with cases all around them, in a plain, good style;...

A most sonorous peal of bells, an alarming rattle of drums, and a piercing flourish of trumpets, roused me at daybreak. You are too piously disposed to be ignorant that this day...

I was half asleep, half awake, when the sonorous bells of the convent struck my ears. The Marquis and Don Pedro’s voices in earnest conversation with the Capitan Mor in the adjo...

What a lovely morning! how glassy the sea, how busy the fishing-boats, and how fast asleep the wind in its old quarter! Towards evening, however, it freshened, and I took a toss...

Well, thank Heaven! Amsterdam is behind us; how I got thither signifies not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was hot enough to broil an inhabitant o...

I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my peaceful excursions upon the Adriatic. No bright rays illuminated my departure, the sun was concealed in clouds; but the coolness a...

Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever man was jolted in, and drove furiously al...

Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the Tagu...

I went to the church of the Martyrs to hear the matins of Perez and the dead mass of Jomelli performed by all the principal musicians of the royal chapel for the repose of the s...

The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled along a shady road for about an hour, when down sunk the carriage into a sand-bed, and we were dragged along...

I went, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as soon as the sun began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no stranger to; therefore I think I may spare myself the...

This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses blow, butterflies are on the wing, and I have spirits enough to write to you. We have had clouded skies this fo...

I rose early to enjoy the fragrance of the vegetation, bathed in a shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, saw nothing but crags hanging over crags, and the rocky...

The sea-breezes restore me to life. I set the heat of mid-day at defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. I passed yesterday at Portici, with Lady H. The morn...

I thought last night our thin pasteboard habitation would have been blown into the sea, for never in my life did I hear such dreadful blusterings. Perhaps the winds are celebrat...

Navigation seems at a full stop. The captains lounging about with their hands in their pockets, and passengers idling at billiards. Dr. V---- has scraped acquaintance with a qua...

Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of the Lake of Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte Fiascone.--Inh...

As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but finding it haunted by pompous people, nay, even by the Spanish Ambassador, and several red-legged Cardinals, I...

The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony’s bells in full chime. A shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and grateful, that Madame de R. and myself det...

No prospect of launching this day upon the ocean. Every breeze is subsided, and a profound calm established. I walk up and down the path which leads to Pen-dennis Castle with fo...

For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of pine through which our route conducte...

It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you know how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This evening, instead of parading the Corso with...

No sooner had we passed Fuessen than we entered the Tyrol, a country of picturesque wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I delight in, lay before us. Innumerable cle...

What a fool was I to leave my beloved retirement at Evian! Instead of viewing innumerable transparent rills falling over the amber-coloured rocks of Melierie, I am chained down...

Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive rage for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley of Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.--Degener...

The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.--Temptation of St. Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by Berghem and Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable produc...

Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Caspar Poussin’s landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--T...

Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.--The co...

Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical associations.--The Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain Gro...

Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini’s music.--Another excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean hills.--N...

Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur Van Lencren’s collection.--The Canon Knyff’s house and gallery of paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic felicity.-...

Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand Fair at Munich.--The Elector’s country palace.--Court Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden and tea-room.--Hoydening festivities there....

Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous city of Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music on the inhabitants of the Islands.--Solitary fields infested by s...

Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He catches cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is in commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate with the Sin...

Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the spacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherd...

Thick forest of beech-trees.--Fearful glimpses of the torrent.--Throne of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of the Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched ai...

Bolsano.--Indications of approaching Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance of the Peasantry.--A forest Lake.--Arrive at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the Venetian State.--...

Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary shore.--Scene of the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.--Return to the Place of St. Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles for anonym...

Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge of the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected with those mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to Bologna.--Magnificent...

A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the Gallery.--Relics of ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A Medusa’s h...

Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Si...

Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The great Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to St. Bruno....

A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross the bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The Dead...

Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Count...

Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvello...

Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by Me...

Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King’s sleeping apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of...

Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of Pine.--Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception at the Convent.--Wild Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cel...

Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit to the Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.--The Archbisho...

Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an infidel in the German style.--Mass in the chapel of the Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba’s villa.--Destruction by a...

Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals formerly celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossa...

Villa of Mosolente.--The route to Venice.--First view of that city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning scene on the grand canal.--Church of Santa Maria della Salu...

Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.--The Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular t...

Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d’Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d’Aranda’...

Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures by Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt shown by the Austrians to the memory of the House of Medici.--Evening...

Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend one of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from its brow.--Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of a Prince...

Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famou...

Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of a...

Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence of the choir.--Charles the Fifth’s organ.--Crucifix by Cell...

Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of rariti...

Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal depredators.--Arrival at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three Wise Sovere...

The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking ef...

Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious...

Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A Storm.--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village of Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited plains on its...

Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the Tagu...

Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--...

Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The Place de Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, contrast...

Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petti...

Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conver...

Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn to Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A winding valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A suppo...

Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer’s enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Na...

A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.--Curious assemblage in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Bocc...

M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian’s master-piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo....

Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of the Lake of Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte Fiascone.--Inh...

Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the Village of Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance of the Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--D...

Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed to Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of the Fanale. 198

Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d’Alcala.--The Prado.-...

Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore of Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its deserted appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. 290

A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Ver...

Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach...