PART II
VENEZUELA
X. FIFTEEN HUNDRED MILES ON THE ORINOCO 141
XI. THE MAQUIRITARES’ LAND AND THE UPPER ORINOCO 162
XII. LIFE IN THE GUIANA WILDS 180
XIII. FIRST WEEKS WITH THE ROOSEVELT SOUTH AMERICAN EXPEDITION 194
XIV. HUNTING EXCURSIONS ALONG THE UPPER PARAGUAY 208
XV. A FORTY DAYS’ RIDE THROUGH WILDEST MATTO GROSSO 223
XVI. THE DESCENT OF THE RIO GY-PARANÁ 240
XVII. DOWN THE COAST OF PERU--LAKE TITICACA AND LA PAZ--THROUGH THE ANCIENT INCAN EMPIRE TO COCHABAMBA 265
XVIII. CROSSING THE BOLIVIAN HIGHLANDS FROM COCHABAMBA TO THE CHAPARÉ 279
XIX. AMONG THE YURACARÉ INDIANS OF THE RIO CHIMORÉ 303
XX. THE CACTUS FORESTS OF CENTRAL BOLIVIA--COCHABAMBA TO SAMAIPATA 321
XXI. A MULE-BACK JOURNEY ON THE SANTA CRUZ TRAIL TO SUCRE 336
XXII. SUCRE, THE RIO PILCOMAYO, AND THE UPLAND DESERT TO THE ARGENTINE FRONTIER 349
XXIII. BIRD-NESTING IN NORTHWESTERN ARGENTINA 365
XXIV. THE CHACO--SUGAR PLANTATIONS AND RICE MARSHES--A SEARCH FOR A RARE BIRD 378
XXV. VIZCACHA-HUNTING IN AN ARGENTINE DESERT--GIANT SNAKES 396
XXVI. THE LAKE REGION OF WESTERN ARGENTINA--THE HEART OF THE WINE COUNTRY 412
INDEX 425
ILLUSTRATIONS
The cock-of-the-rock at home _Frontispiece_
FACING PAGE Buenaventura 4
Cattle grazing in the Cauca Valley 14
Port of Guanchito 14
Cerro Munchique 30
A deserted Indian hut on the Cerro Munchique 30
The _Caldas_ fast on a sand-bar in the Cauca River 44
Bamboo rafts on the Cauca River 44
The town of Salento 50
The lake on the paramo of Santa Isabel 58
Snow on the paramo of Ruiz 58
Native of Juntas de Tamaná with trail-haunting blacksnake 68
The author with natives of Juntas de Tamaná 68
Nóvita, the largest town in the Chocó 72
Threshing wheat 78
Indian hut in the Valle de las Papas 78
The village of Santa Barbara 86
A corner of San Augustin 86
A mountain stream, such as the Rio Naranjos, where the cock-of-the-rock spends its existence 88
Tree-fern, typical of the Andean forests 98
The high, flat-topped panorama of the Andes 102
The town of Valdivia 108
The Cauca River at Puerto Valdivia 108
A naturalists’ camp in the forest 116
A native hunter with a red howling monkey 116
The porters en route to the Paramillo 124
Cuña Indians at Dabeiba 124
Our camp on the Paramillo 126
Dabeiba on the Rio Sucio 130
The village of Maipures 156
The _Hilo de Oro_ at the end of the voyage 156
A rubber-camp on the Upper Orinoco 170
Unloading for the portage, Raudal del Muerto 172
The Cerro Duida 172
Wismar on the Demerara River 182
Tumatumari on the Potaro River 182
Camp on the Rio Negro in the Gran Chaco of the Paraguay 200
Selling oranges in the market at Asuncion 200
A street in Buenos Aires 204
Porto Gallileo on the Rio Pilcomayo 204
Fort of Coimbra on the Rio Paraguay 206
S. S. _Nyoac_ on the Paraguay River 214
Corumbá 214
Colonel Roosevelt in the Brazilian _chapadão_ 226
A camp in the _chapadão_ 226
The Falls of Salto Bello of the Rio Papagayo 230
Camp on the Rio da Duvida 242
A rubber-camp on the Rio Gy-Paraná 254
A rubber-camp on the Lower Gy-Paraná 254
Country around Arequipa, showing Mount Misti 268
The expedition en route via hand-car, Changollo to Arce 268
An Indian hut in the Yungas of Cochabamba 288
The expedition in the Cuchicancha Pass 292
Vampire-bat from Todos Santos 300
Tamanduá ant-eater 300
Yuracarés chewing yucca-roots for making casire 306
Yuracaré women and children 306
The great _Puya_, a species of pine growing in the Bolivian Andes at an elevation of 13,000 feet 324
The plaza at Mizque 326
Vermejo on the Santa Cruz trail 338
Quechua habitation on the upland desert 346
Rio Cachimayo at Peras Pampa, Sucre 352
Bridge across the Rio Pilcomayo 352
Quechua Indians wearing the costume used during the reign of the Incas, five hundred years ago 358
Ploughing at Rosario de Lerma 374
Tilcara, showing the stream and valley and the snow-capped Andes in the distance 374
The lagoon in the Chaco, Embarcacion 380
Paramo above Tafí 380
The great crested tinamou 402
A burrowing owl 402
Skinning a boa 404
Boa sunning itself at the entrance to a vizcacha burrow 404
Oculto, or _Tucotuco_, a rare rodent with mole-like habits 406
Gray fox, abundant in the semiarid regions 406
Long-tailed vizcacha of the high Andes 410
Short-tailed vizcacha of the Argentine lowlands 410
Rice-fields at the foot of the Andes Mountains, Sarmientos 416
MAPS
Sketch map of the south-central part of the Amazon drainage system 241
Routes taken by the author in his South American explorations _At end of the volume_
_PART I_
COLOMBIA