Part 8

Upon the entrance of this party there was no formal introduction to us, and yet bows were exchanged, and one of them approached and shook hands with me. I should have construed the previous demeanor of Senor Egydio, in connection with his failure to present me to his friends, as indicative of a want of proper respect; but his manner with them was much the same as previously, and I am informed by Mr. Bennaton that introductions under such circumstances are not customary in this country. The persons meeting in this way are expected to find out each other as best they may; and, with this view, it is usual to set about a system of interrogation as to the name, business, distinction, &c., of one another. I am not favorably impressed with this style of doing business, and must think that a due regard for the courtesies of life require that introductions should be given when strangers meet in this way.

We made but a brief visit, and left without any special demonstration of interest in our movements by this demure provincial deputy. That he intended to be polite, I have no reason to doubt; but if I had to encounter such a demeanor from all persons to whom letters are borne, the most natural inference would be, that my mission was not entirely acceptable.

After returning to Tapera, where our baggage had been left, we proceeded to pack up our trunks, so as to let the camarada start this afternoon with the pack-mules, and thus keep in advance of us.

In looking around the yard here, I observed a large number of hogs, and, for the most part, in good order, but most of them being molested with the small bicho that penetrates the skin wherever there is least hair. This little insect is black, like a flea, but enters the skin like a chigre, and is very prone to get into the feet of persons who are even for a few minutes without shoes, and make a sore place if not extracted.

In the afternoon, we took a walk into the coffee field, and though the most of the crop had been gathered, there were a number of trees having their full supply of berries. Upon counting some of the best-filled limbs, I found a single straight twig to contain about seventy-five berries or one hundred and fifty grains, and three pounds to the tree is an average yield.

SATURDAY, _October 7, 1865_.

Our pack-mules having gone on yesterday afternoon, we rode out this morning from the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, known as Tapera, and proceeded to Campinas, where we expected to call upon Dr. Reinhardt; but he was absent on a visit to Sorocaba. This gentleman came originally from the United States, with others, under a commission to make a botanical exploration of the country, and, after closing his engagement with the government, he concluded to remain in the country, and is very much esteemed by all who know him.

This city, like other interior towns, has but little to attract the favorable notice of one who has been accustomed to the display of architectural taste in the cities of the United States. Yet there are a number of neatly-constructed houses, and those more recently built manifest an improvement in style which seems to augur better for the future.

The elaborate work of carving which has been executed in the recently erected Catholic church exceeds any specimen of native art which has been seen in Brazil. The most extensive decorations of the interior of the building, and the most artistic figures upon eight different altars on either side of the long and lofty hall, prepare us for the grand and rich ornaments which encircle the great altar at the end of the church. The great length of the building, and the lofty elevation of the unsupported arch overhead, are, of themselves, remarkable features of this region, and would commend this structure to our attention, if there was nothing to attract within.

But the specimens of exquisite carving in native wood of the country present the most elegant and delicate workmanship that the world can produce. It seems as if the genius of some other land had been transformed to this city to give a fancy sketch which might seem to elevate the taste of the people. All the work is not yet completed, and there were several artisans engaged in carving out figures from the rough pieces of wood. But there seems to be no general movement towards finishing the work, and the general aspect of the exterior of the building is that of a ruin, rather than the progressive improvement of a growing structure.[12]

The common people in all these interior towns look as if they had little to do, and less to think about, and it evidently afforded considerable curiosity to men and women as we passed through the city.

Most of the better class of women confine themselves closely to their houses, or, if seen upon the street, have their heads covered with the hood of a cloak which envelops their persons. But a more numerous class of females err on the other extreme; and with bare heads and bare arms, their natural developments are open to all observers. There is a style adopted very generally by this class, of having only the chemise on the body, and a skirt about the waist, thus bringing parts into view which modesty prompts most females to conceal with great care.

This free and easy apparel is also adopted by the female servants that are seen about the inns or hospedarias for the accommodation of travellers; and while it may do for a negro woman employed at washing or other duties, I am surprised that the white women, who have any self-respect, should appear in public, thus loosely attired about their breasts.

It is not uncommon on the route we came through the country, to see the Portuguese and negroes accompanying the troops of pack-mules without a shirt. Though they are provided with this garment, it is thrown across the mule upon which the man is mounted, or tied around his waist, and thus the sun comes in direct contact with the skin. This kind of exposure cannot be comfortable, and it cannot be necessary for the free use of the arms when no labor is performed, yet they seem to have a partiality for stripping to the buff in this way. Common decency in the United States would forbid this sort of public denuding of the person, but here it is a part of the programme of this kind of life, and is not noticed by those accustomed to the habits of the country, so far as respects this class of people.

On the contrary of the view here given, it will be found that the Brazilian gentleman is quite as circumspect in regard to his person as respects exposure and cleanliness as the most fastidious taste would exact.

The lands lying along the road after leaving the immediate vicinity of Campinas were not found under such fine cultivation, and we saw again signs of the copina, which throws up its mounds of earth in almost every abandoned field of this country.

We stopped about noon at one of the roadside inns and got our horses fed, while we waited leisurely for dinner to be prepared for us. Resting until 4 o’clock P. M., the voyage was resumed, and riding twelve miles, we stopped for the night at the hospedaria of Ponte Atibaia. Here we had condiments with our supper and fared well in all respects.[13]

SUNDAY, _October 8, 1865_.

All hands were around this morning at half-past four o’clock, to prepare for the road, and coffee was ordered while we dressed. Each of the party seemed to have put on his best outfit in view of the day, and the fact that Ybicaba was our destination. Even our camarada had put on a neat white shirt and boots, whereas he had heretofore been barefooted, as is the custom with this class of men on most occasions.

It presents quite an odd spectacle to see one of these fellows mounted upon a mule with bare feet, and a huge pair of spurs strapped about his ankles. His stirrups are purposely small, so as to receive but two or three toes, and when they have rode a great deal, quite a space is formed between the toes, by the constant pressure of the stirrup. My inference in regard to thus having the stirrups so small is, to prevent the possibility of the entire foot being caught in the stirrups in case a man is thrown from his mule, as it certainly cannot be for comfort or convenience, either in mounting or riding with the bare feet.

The negro servants here much more frequently wear shoes than the Portuguese camaradas or troupeiros, and the boy Joaquim who accompanies Mr. Bennaton is well-dressed, and keeps himself neat and clean at all times. He is out this morning with white pants and his hair combed and braided in the most approved darkey style. He is beginning to understand my little phrases of the Portuguese language, and seems disposed to render me any assistance or service required.

When we set out this morning, shortly after five o’clock, it was not yet clear daylight, and the atmosphere was quite cool, rendering our overcoats indispensable for comfort. Indeed they have been used every morning until 9 o’clock, but after that hour it becomes warm, and from 12 o’clock until 3 o’clock in the afternoon the sun is oppressively hot. The heat here, however, is not greater than is experienced in the United States during the summer months, and the temperature of this climate at night is invariably more pleasant than in the Southern States.

All well know that the winter in the United States is during those months which constitute the summer of Brazil; and vice versa, so that, now, while it is becoming colder north of the equator, the heat is increasing in this southern latitude.

Thus far, less inconvenience has been experienced from the heat than was anticipated, and but for the protracted drought, which has parched the earth, and retarded vegetation of every kind in this section, the atmosphere would now be more agreeable during the middle of the day.

It is no part of my plan to eulogize the climate, or any other feature of this country, except as the facts may warrant a favorable estimate. Having an opportunity to judge of the nature of the climate in the latter part of winter and spring, with the forthcoming summer, I may determine with some certainty what will be its effects upon people from our latitude, by my personal experience.

The range of the thermometer as yet has not exceeded 85° Fahrenheit; and the sensible influence of the sun is not greater than I have experienced at a corresponding season in South Carolina and Georgia.

Most of the region of country through which we passed to-day consisted of plateau land rather sparsely timbered with large trees, and some of it resembled the low lands a short distance from the banks of our rivers. This was overgrown with shrubbery and bamboo cane, and having a growth of small trees interspersed with large timber. The general aspect of the surface was that of an undulating plain, but occasionally we encountered a ravine of considerable depth, making the descent and ascent rather difficult for our animals, and almost impracticable for carts or wagons.

The supply of water was more deficient upon our route to-day than upon any part of the road travelled heretofore; and however desirable land might be here, the difficulty of procuring an adequate supply of water, either for drinking or for machinery, would be a serious objection.

Twelve miles from our starting point we entered the town of Lemeire, which has sprung up within a few years to a respectable size. Some of the houses presented a very good appearance, but the usually dull aspect of these mud-built houses gives a monotony to all these interior towns which may excuse any detailed notice.

Since leaving the mountain range, this side of Jundiahi, the nature of the soil and the general configuration of the surface has undergone a gradual change, with a better adaptation to agricultural purposes. The dark reddish or brown color of the earth, which predominates in this region, is considered to be of volcanic origin in some former period of the world, and called “terra rocha.” It is found to be especially well adapted to the culture of coffee, and likewise well adapted to the growth of corn and beans, while the experiment made thus far with the cotton plant promises also an abundant yield. There is, however, a somewhat sandy level soil in parts, interspersed with these dark red lands, which present to my view very favorable indications for the culture of cotton, and the experience of planters will soon develop whether the former or the latter can be cultivated to best advantage in this crop.

At 9 o’clock A. M. we arrived at the magnificent fazenda of Commendador José Vergueiro, known as Ybicaba. He gave me a hearty welcome in the English language, and told me any thing and every thing in his house was to be used as my own while it might suit me to remain with him. In extenuation of his imperfect use of the English tongue, he said that he had told Mr. Bennaton in Portuguese, of his desire to accommodate me, and he wished me to make known through him any thing I might want.

I was very much pleased to find here, also, Senor Henry Whitaker, who speaks English well, and my sojourn here is likely to be relieved of much of the embarrassment of intercourse with others. The lady of Commendador Vergueiro does not speak English, but seems very kindly disposed, and very dignified in her manner.

We reached here just in time to join the family at breakfast, and after a ride of eighteen miles I enjoyed the tender and fat beefsteak, with nice wheat bread and coffee, in connection with the other supplies of the table. There was such a variety of articles for breakfast, and every thing in such excellent order, that it could not have been much improved by notice of our coming. After concluding breakfast, Mr. Whitaker, Mr. Bennaton and myself, indulged a walk round the garden, where quite a variety of fruit trees were seen growing in the greatest perfection. The orange, the pine apple, and also the peach, were among the number. A specimen of the genuine tea-plant was also seen here, but there was only a few plants, and no attempt to cultivate it for use of the family or for market.

Between 3 and 4 o’clock P. M. dinner was announced, and we had a most sumptuous feast of good things. The absence of fowl of any kind was again noticed, and turkeys, ducks and chickens are evidently not so much prized here as with us. Big hominy, of the whitest and nicest form, is used here with boiled milk as a dessert; and though very different from our mode of using the article, it is very good in this way. I told Mr. Bennaton that it would be more relished if fried, or eaten with gravy, as a part of the substantials of the meal. But he said it would surprise the people in this country very much to see the canjeen, as it is here called, eaten in that mode; and I therefore conform to the custom of the land, and take it as dessert with milk or syrup.

In the afternoon we walked out to the colony of Germans, French and Portuguese, located upon this place. I counted one hundred and sixty-four tenements for families, and learned that there were thirty-six others occupied, making two hundred families. They are here engaged to gather the coffee from the fields, at fixed rates for each bushel, and have a house with a small parcel of land, upon which to grow a little corn or other articles for themselves. They live in the most saving manner, with a view to accumulate enough to buy a place and live upon it, and the interior of their houses seemed to have a scanty outfit.

MONDAY, _October 9, 1865_.

Before leaving my room this morning I asked the servant for water to take a general bath, saying, “Fraga me agua, para lavor,” to which his reply was an interrogation, “Quente ou frio?” (warm or cold,) and I said, “Quero frio,” (I wish cold.)

Thus my acquisitions in the language are beginning to avail me, and I trust in a short time to be able to make known all my ordinary wants.

We set out before breakfast to make a survey of the extensive establishment for treating the coffee, which is run by steam-power.

The first step is to remove the outer hull of the berries, and for this purpose he employs four dispolpadores, such as described at Settequéda, each being capable of hulling five hundred bushels of the crude berries in a day, making two thousand in a day when all are fully employed. Not having a supply of water sufficient to move the machinery, or to float the coffee into the apparatus, it has to be washed before going into the dispolpadores if it should be dirty, and it may then be put in while wet. After the hull is removed, the coffee grains having still their separate investment, are dried in the ample tile-covered yard that is adjoining the building. The cleaning process is conducted by two large fans, and if any of the smaller grains slip through the sieve of the fan without being entirely cleaned, they are submitted to hand sieves. Thus, all the coffee is prepared for sacking. The specimens seen in the building were entirely free from dust or any foreign matter, and the proprietor states will command from two to five cents per pound more than the rolled or pounded coffee.

The store-room contains an immense amount of uncleaned coffee, and the crop made on this place this year is reckoned at fifty thousand arrobas, or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of clean coffee. This is below the annual average crop, and Senor Vergueiro thinks the blooming trees indicate a larger yield for the next crop.

This coffee milling establishment is upon a much larger scale than that of Settequéda, but there are a number of conveniences and improvements in the latter, which the want of water does not admit here.

There is a saw-mill adjoining the coffee-mill, which is run by a separate engine of four horse-power, and performs very satisfactorily with a perpendicular saw.

In addition to these there is a cotton-gin, and packing apparatus under the same roof.

An American cotton-gin of seventy saws is run by the same engine, of eight horse-power, which works the coffee machinery. The compress or packing apparatus is a pattern which has been in use for some years in the United States, but is made upon a small scale to pack bales of ninety-six pounds for transportation upon pack-mules.

The gin and compress were brought from Santos upon wagons drawn by oxen.

The ordinary hemp bagging is used here for covering the cotton, and the sepo vine, which grows in this country abundantly, makes an admirable substitute for roping. It is very unyielding, and being smooth, with a facility for knotting, it fulfils all the indications completely and economically.

The hull of the coffee, and the cotton seed, with the refuse from the saw-mill, have constituted the fuel for the steam-engine, thus wasting the cotton seed that might be made very profitable, either by converting them into oil, or for manure. Upon bringing these matters to the attention of Senor Vergueiro, he expressed his intention to cease this destructive policy; and until he may be able to procure an apparatus for the manufacture of the cotton seed oil, he proposes to accumulate his seed, when it will be convenient to pour water upon them, if it should not rain sufficient to wet them, and thus rot them for manure.

A blacksmith shop and a woodshop are in very successful operation, making his own wagons, and machinery for all the purposes of his extensive establishment; and all of good quality.

A large and well-arranged brickyard is brought into requisition for the manufacture of brick, tiles, and earthen pipes, that are demanded about the place; and his fazenda being within itself a village, the consumption of these articles is very considerable throughout the year.

The negro quarters are adjoining the residence of the family, and enclose a large court, in the centre of which is a belfry, and a lock-up for such as become unruly. There is a hospital department, with an office, where medicine is dispensed by the physician when his visits are required.

The stables are large and well-arranged for feeding, and the stalls are substantially floored with sawed plank, while there is an upper story for hay.

A spacious and neat fowl-house has recently been constructed, connected with an open grass lot, having a supply of water for the poultry.

The old coffee-mill and saw-mill, moved by water-power, are still preserved in good running order on the place.

After dinner to-day we were supplied with fine saddle horses, and accompanied Senor Vergueiro over his wide domain of a million coffee trees and fine cotton lands. We rode rapidly over miles of winding roads through the fields of coffee, stopping here and there to examine some feature of special interest, either in the mode of management or the development of the trees. Some had been growing there for twenty-six years that still presented a vigorous appearance and afforded a good yield of coffee this season. Others that were thirty-four years old have been cut off eighteen inches above the ground, two years since, and have again put forth branches, which present all the aspects of thriving trees. They have borne a crop of coffee this season, and the blooms afford a fine prospect for another year. This is a very interesting feature in the management of the old trunks of the coffee, as the advantages of a new growth are secured in one-half the time it could be attained from a new plant. Even should the root require to be dug around and manured, it would be far preferable to the uncertainty connected with the growth of a new plant; and in lands of good quality it certainly presents great advantages.

The stumps of the cotton stalk were also seen during our ride, which had recently been cut off for the purpose of securing the growth of another crop. There is a perennial growth of the cotton plant in this latitude, from the absence of frost; and by simply cutting away the limbs in the early spring another development ensues, which produces a larger yield than the first crop; and it is supposed that it may be cut off again at the end of the second year, and produce for the third time a full crop of cotton.

Thus the risks attending the sprouting and the early growth of the plant are avoided here; and as the evidence is conclusive that the yield of the second year is superior to that of the first, the advantages for the culture of cotton in this country gives it a preference to the southern part of the United States. The additional element of slave labor here is likely to afford results that cannot be secured by hired labor in the Southern States; and so soon as the negroes have become acquainted with the proper mode of working the cotton, we may anticipate yields of this staple exceeding any that have ever been realized in the United States.