Part 7
The coffee apparatus at this place is of the oldest and most elementary construction, and therefore it may be appropriately described in the outset of my observation. In the first place the yard for drying is simply a firm smooth surface of the ground, with a shelter at one side of it, under which the coffee is carried in baskets, if there is a prospect of rain. When this drying is completed, it is taken into a circular box of perhaps fifteen feet diameter, and subjected to the operation of a large wheel of wood, having a surface of twelve inches, that rolls round in this circular box containing the grains of coffee, and bruising or crushing off the hulls as it passes repeatedly over them. This wheel revolves upon a sweep or beam, to which oxen are yoked and move on the outside of the ring, while the sweep is attached to an upright post in the centre of the ring. After this slow and bungling procedure has done its work, the coffee is fanned or screened and afterwards a hand sieve is employed with blowing by the laborers, to remove the fine investments of the grain. That portion which it is thought necessary to wash is now washed in large wooden troughs by hand, after which another drying process completes the preparations for market.
I saw, at this place, that remarkable phenomenon, called the Monjolo, and really was impressed with the simplicity of this primary exemplification of the mechanical adaptation of means to an end; but I could not restrain laughter at the ludicrous display of see-saw motion which was kept up every half minute. The apparatus, if it is entitled to be dignified by that name, consists in an upright support for a beam, which works by a sort of hinge upon its top, and having at one end a pestle secured beneath it, that plays into a mortar, while the other end of the beam is excavated into a trough. The water pours from a small channel or conductor into this trough, and when filled it becomes heavier than the other extremity. This end is thus depressed, while the other is raised aloft; and the slanting position allowing the water to escape, there is no longer sufficient weight to counterbalance the end having the pestle, and consequently it descends forcibly into the mortar; pounding, by its frequent repetition, whatever may be placed in it. So soon as the level is again brought about, of course the water again fills the trough, and it is again depressed and emptied, keeping up a constant see-saw operation, day and night, unless the beam is propped aloft, and thus its motion arrested.
The fulfilment of that ideal principle of perpetual motion is more nearly attained in this extremely simple mechanism than by any machinery with which science has favored the world; and though much more efficient means have been devised, of accomplishing all that can be done by the Monjolo, yet its ready adaptation, with a very small stream of water, renders it useful in the hands of many, who cannot employ other labor-saving appliances. It pounds coffee, big hominy, farina, and would beat dough finely.
THURSDAY, _October 5, 1865_.
Breakfasting at Tapera, the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, at which we were quartered, we mounted our mules, with a servant upon another, and set out for the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral. The rest of our train was left at Tapera until our return, and with a fine pasture and plenty of corn, the stock ought to improve by the rest. After riding something over four miles, with the assistance of a guide we reached the large and really elegant establishment of the gentleman above-named. Presenting the letter which we bore to him, he gave us a reception which assured me we would enjoy the visit, and the result fully confirmed my anticipations.
Although I did not speak his language, yet he seemed to communicate his spirit through the words reported to me, and evidently thought and spoke with much intelligence. While his bearing was dignified and refined, there was a familiarity and simplicity in his manner that soon caused me to feel easy in his presence.
He ordered refreshments for us, and a large waiter was brought by the servant with coffee, ale, and brandy; but we only partook of the ale. I had taken coffee before breakfast, and then café leite (coffee with milk) at breakfast, and really had no mind for any further stimulant, but courtesy demanded that something be taken.
The parlor of Senor Bonifacio is spacious and furnished very tastefully; but the plan of the house is marred by having the small bedrooms, called here “alcova,” without proper ventilation, and opening into the parlor. These are also neatly furnished.
A separate apartment was assigned to each of us, and every thing furnished that could be desired. The beds were particularly neat, the pattern of the bedstead being that of the French style for a single person, and yet very capacious, upon which lay spring-mattresses of the best quality, and the whole covered with sheets and counterpanes of the whitest hue and most tasteful pattern. The elegant earthenware jug, or large bottle, for holding water to drink, was in a plate of the same material upon the table, and is a very convenient article that is much used here for keeping the water cool, and, at the same time, free from dust that enters a pitcher. A fine china bowl and pitcher were also at hand; and at night, a bathing-tub of metal, two feet and a half across the mouth and eight or ten inches deep, was brought in and filled with water, in which it was a luxury to perform ablutions. This feature of every well-regulated Brazilian dwelling is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inmates of a warm climate; and yet, a large proportion of the people here use tepid or even warm water for bathing their persons or their feet, when cold water would evidently be more pleasant and more invigorating.
A new model of candlestick, with a glass upon it to protect the light from the current of air in carrying it, was used for our bedrooms, and, apart from being very appropriate, was made of silver in the most tasteful style.
The dining-room in this establishment, as in most houses of the country, is very large; and, although the family-table is perhaps fifteen feet long, a table of twice that length could be accommodated in the room. Every portion of the table-furniture was neat, and yet no special display in the ceremonies of the table. The gentleman of the house was seated at one end of the table, with his wife upon his left hand and myself on his right, upon the opposite sides of the table. There was neither ham, turkey, or fowl of any kind for dinner, which in our country are considered essentials to a well supplied table; and yet there was quite a sufficient variety of articles to constitute an excellent dinner. Roast beef and beefsteak, mutton, and pork were all served in the most approved modes, and with a good assortment of vegetables and a delicious dessert, the dinner was relished very much. Wines of the finest quality were upon the table, and coffee of superb make was served after all other things were concluded. The combination of wines and coffee seems to be an excess of stimulants in the routine of dining in this country, and cannot be promotive of digestion; but I relish very much the small cup of fine strong coffee, such as we had here, and will fall into this habit of coffee after dinner without any difficulty.
After dinner, we were furnished with horses of most excellent saddle-qualities, and accompanied our host, Senor Bonifacio, in a ride to his plantation. Here we saw the coffee trees in full bearing, planted in lines and squares, so as to make the distance about nine feet between each tree, and extending over a very large area of land. The appearance of this field gives evidence of much careful attention, and though the coffee trees continue to grow in the same place from fifteen to twenty years, it is found to be important to their production that the land should be kept in good order; and, if not cultivated in other things, it is annually cleaned around the trees, and very often a compost, formed by the hull of the coffee with other articles, is put upon the ground to enrich it.
There were some young trees recently planted which had not borne any coffee, and a crop is not expected until the fourth year after setting out the plants, unless the plants should be over a year old, and then a partial yield will be obtained at the end of the third year from transplanting.
A nursery of the coffee plants was shown to us, and presented much the appearance of a young plumb thicket, when the sprouts had reached the height of from eighteen inches to two feet. This coffee nursery had been planted among some advanced stalks of the mandioca, which served to shade them when young and tender; and they had been gradually thinned out to give the plants more air and sun as their growth advanced. There was a large piece of ground in readiness to receive these plants so soon as there might be sufficient rain to transplant them.
This land had the timber felled and dried, when fire was applied and burnt over the whole, destroying all the leaves and small limbs, and yet leaving the larger limbs and trunks upon the ground. In the midst of this network, it was expected to set out the coffee trees, and between them to plant corn and beans, with the expectation of getting a full crop of the latter articles. Of course no ploughing is practicable, and all the work is done with the hoe, as is the case with nearly all the culture of this country.
The corn which had been planted here had usually five or six stalks in the hill, and I observed from the number of old stalks from last year, standing in some places together, that it is the custom to let this number remain in one place. Although the yield is reported to be good with this mode of culture, it is very evident that fewer grains in a hill and the use of the plough would enhance the result.
Senor Bonifacio showed me a specimen of a large many-toothed plough, which was of French manufacture, and fitted alone for ground that was smooth and without roots. He has also a specimen of the large American plough, which is better adapted to ordinary use. But he has done little more than experiment with these implements, and the difficulties attending the use of the complicated French ploughing machine will be a barrier to its successful employment; while the want of knowledge and of training on the part of negroes and animals will doubtless prevent him from turning the other to practical account. The farmer of the United States is needed here to learn the fazendeiros of Brazil the proper use of the plough, and should any considerable number remove to this country, they will effect quite a revolution in agriculture in a few years.
The trunks of many of the immense trees which had constituted the original forest were lying upon a piece of fresh land, and the Pon D’Alho and Figare Branco were pointed out to me as the indications of good soil, when found thus in close proximity. The former has the smell of garlic, even in the dry state, and when burned, it yields a large proportion of potash from the ashes. It is said likewise to have the property of attracting the magnetic needle to such an extent as to interfere with the accuracy of the compass in surveying lands where it is to be encountered.
The Jangada is a small tree which springs up on land of good quality which has been under cultivation, but is thrown out to rest and recuperate. The second forest growth upon this kind of soil is called in the Portuguese language “Capoera;” and the land varies in quality, as it has been more or less exhausted by the first cultivation. Hence the importance of noting those growths upon it, which indicate that it continues to be productive.
My object in examining these improved plantations in the outset is to get information as to the different qualities of soil and their productions; and at the same time to get the views and the experience of disinterested parties, as to all matters that may assist me in making a judicious selection of territory for my friends.
At the saw-mill of Senor Bonifacio, near his residence, was seen the wood of the Cabriuve, which is a very hard, brown material, used in constructing machinery, or for building purposes. The Tariba is a yellow and very durable substance, used for posts, which are set in the earth. The Sucupina is very bitter to the taste, and is also of a yellow hue. It is likewise very durable when partially embedded in the ground. The Goncalo Aldes is of a most beautifully-variegated, dark brown and yellow color. It is very hard and finely grained, so as to admit of the highest polish; and is employed for the frames of pictures or other decorative work by cabinet makers.
The different qualities of wood enumerated in the last paragraph have been used in connection with the magnificent dwelling of our host, which has just been completed in the most elaborate style.
A team of fourteen oxen was seen here, attached to a strong high-wheeled cart, beneath which a huge log was suspended at one end and dragged upon the other end in the manner adopted in the States. These carts have the wheels fixed firmly upon the ends of the axles, so that all revolve together, and this plan is generally observed in all the vehicles for the use of oxen even when there are four wheels. The junction of the axle with the other portions of the wagon or cart is not usually lubricated so as to prevent the creaking noise from friction in the revolution of the wheels, and consequently progressing is attended with a sound that may be heard at the distance usually of half a mile, or even farther, in some instances. This harsh and shrill sound is thought to have a very important effect upon the performance of the oxen that have become accustomed to it, and unless it is heard they manifest an unwillingness to go forward with the load. Hence it is that these carts are rarely greased, and the drivers consider the music as a necessary accompaniment to their carts.
At one time the municipal authorities of the city of São Paulo decreed that those carts which entered the capital should be so lubricated as to obviate this noise, declaring that it was a nuisance to the city. But the consequence was that the carts did not come in to bring the wood for fuel or to perform any other service, the owners insisting that the oxen would not work without this old familiar sound, and the edict was repealed.
Immediately in front of the residence, and not more than one hundred yards distant, is the machinery of the saw-mill, grist-mill, and coffee-mill, all moved by water-power, brought by a race from a dam some four or five hundred yards off.
Upon this stream there are seven distinct falls, and this has fixed the name of the place, and of its proprietor, as “Settequéda,” the Portuguese word for seven falls. This gentleman is known far and near by this name, and it is the ordinary title given him by his friends in social intercourse.
As the apparatus here embodies all the most recent improvements for treating the coffee, it will be described with some minuteness. It is what is styled a “despolpidor,” and receives the coffee directly from the tree, without any preliminary process of drying, and even while the berries are yet red, previous to their becoming black. This saves much trouble which attends other processes, and enables the coffee-grower to gather his crops earlier than when it is required to dry upon the tree, or to be dried after gathering, prior to cleaning.
The coffee brought directly from the trees is placed first in a receptacle built with brick and cement, containing water; which not only washes the berries, but floats them forward with a current that runs from this tank by a small trough to another receiver, which constitutes the despolpidor.
In this there is a revolving cylinder of brass or copper, which has the surface roughened like a blacksmith’s rasp; and as the coffee passes into the cavity where this revolves, it comes in contact with this rough exterior surface, and the outside hull of the berry is detached, and the investing membrane of each separate grain is more or less torn, but not entirely separated. This being accomplished, the hulls drop out at a waste-way, and the grains are carried below with the water into a large reservoir. Here there are arms or sweeps of wood revolving upon a central shaft, and constantly stirring and agitating the coffee in the water, as it passes with the current to the most dependent portion. There it is subjected to a percolating process of washing by the passage of the water through it, and out below through a perforated plate. From this it is dipped up by a system of cups or buckets, such as is used for elevating flour in our bolting apparatus, and is deposited in a large cemented reservoir, from which any remaining water is drained off through perforations in the bottom. The coffee is now taken out to be subjected to the drying process for the first and only time.
The yard for drying the coffee, called “tereiro,” is a neatly paved, level space, with a number of divisions for receiving the coffee in the different stages of drying. This being laid with glazed tile, and entirely free from dust or other impurity, that can affect the clean grains of coffee, the drying is accomplished in the most satisfactory manner.
As a portion of the investment of each grain remains attached to it after it is completely dry, the process of fanning has still to be resorted to; and in this unique establishment two fans are connected, so as to receive the coffee one from the other; and the last so arranged with a sieve of graduated openings, that the large, fine grains of coffee are separated from the smaller and imperfect grains. All being now entirely clean and assorted, it is ready for sacking.
The house in which this entire machinery is arranged is not exceeding twenty-five feet square; and though there are three different elevations, in which different stages of the work are conducted, yet but one floor is required in the building. This compact and nicely-adjusted apparatus does great credit to the energy and enterprise of the proprietor; and though he has received many suggestions from other establishments, there is, perhaps, no single coffee-mill in Brazil that combines so much efficiency and economy of labor in treating this great staple. I would therefore urge those who may be entering upon this business to make a visit to Settequéda, even should it be two hundred miles distant, so as to get the details of this establishment.
The coffee treated in this way has a value in the market of from five to ten per cent. above that cleaned by the ordinary process; and when a fine article is desired for family use, it will command in Brazil a higher price than any of the coffee shipped to the United States ever brings in that market. I am informed here, that none of the finest specimens of coffee are shipped from Brazil to the United States, as the merchants will not pay the prices at which they sell in Rio de Janeiro. But these fine lots of coffee find a market in England, and consequently all the best coffee takes that channel of trade. We are accustomed, in the United States, to think that it is mere talk as to the superiority of the living in England; yet, undoubtedly, their progress in manufactures and arts is not without a proportionate advancement in what pertains to comfort in their households, and to gratification of taste at their tables.
FRIDAY, _October 6, 1865_.
We took our leave of Settequéda this morning, and the gentlemanly proprietor rode with us to an adjoining fazenda belonging to his sister.
Here we had an exemplification of another process for hulling the coffee, and next in importance to that we have described as being effected by the despolpidor. It consists in the use of the mortar and pestle, after the manner adopted in the rice mills of South Carolina.
A number of mortars being excavated from a solid trunk of wood, and thus placed side by side in a row, constitutes the first element. Next, pestles for each mortar are arranged, with upright pieces of timber, having an aperture of about two and a half feet long, and two inches in width; and these are set in a frame so as to preserve a perpendicular position. The final appliance is a shaft, with arms extending so as to catch in these apertures at each revolution, and raising the pestle a certain distance, the arm slips again from the aperture, and the pestle falls into the mortar, thus by its weight pounding the coffee. These arms are so arranged that a portion of the pestles are elevated at each arc of the circle of revolution; so the work is continuous, under the operation of the water-power by which the machinery is put in motion. By this process the hull is very effectually broken and detached from the grain, but then the use of a ventilator is requisite to separate the grains and larger portions of the hull, and the sieve is required with the blowing of the operation, while the coffee is thrown up in the air time after time, to clean out all foreign matter.
In coming out from the examination of the working of the coffee we were regaled with some very fine oranges, which were the more prized because almost out of season in this region. There were also some fine specimens of the Mamão, a fruit which has its name from the supposed resemblance to the female breast. It grows upon the tree in clusters near the trunk, or, in a different species, upon long pendulous branches extending out some distance from the body of the tree. It is nearly as large as a small cantelope, and resembles in color and taste the mushmelon.
As we were leaving this place Dom Vaz, of Campinas, was met at the gate, and introduced to us by Senor Bonifacio. He was coming, as we supposed, upon a professional visit, and was mounted upon a very fine mule, which is the most usual and most efficient means of transportation in this country. I was impressed with his intelligent and sprightly appearance, with a characteristic energy and activity in his manner, though perhaps fifty years of age. I learned he formerly resided in Rio de Janeiro, but not having good health there he removed to the city of Campinas, and has, in a few years, secured a large and profitable business in his profession as a physician.
On our way back to our quarters we overtook Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa Aranha, to whom a letter was delivered from Senor Dom Bernardo Gaveão. It was read, and then he extended his hand, expressing his satisfaction at making my acquaintance. His physiognomy is the most demure, and his manner the least demonstrative, of any gentleman that I have yet seen.
He was the last President of the House of Deputies of the Provincial Assembly, and there may be a great deal in this grave exterior, proving that deep water runs smooth. Upon reaching his house, he offered us whatever we might choose from his enumerated assortment of drinks. Mr. Bennaton indicated ale, and this, with porter, was produced upon a waiter by a negro. I was now particularly struck with an illustration of the sentiment, that “Actions speak louder than words,” on the part of our host; who, instead of ordering a cork-screw, made a twisting motion of the hand, and a look in the direction from which he expected it to be brought. This was understood, and the article brought accordingly to open the bottles.
Some other gentlemen of a more lively cast rode up soon after our arrival, and, dismounting, left their mules, with the bridles thrown down upon the ground. This seems to be a signal for the animal to stand until some one comes to take charge of it, and all well-trained mules seem to understand this; but occasionally, as in this party, one walks off to look after what he may be able to gather from the yard or the crib.