book I thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of
thankfullness for so many benefites which I have received so bountifullie at your hands Assuring myselfe moreover that as these patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all well-willers, that are desirous of this Arte, soe they shall for ever acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you, being the chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof. And therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte, which in time I am purposed (If God permit) to increase and augment with more paternes of worke. In the meantime I pray God give to your Worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of all your vertuous desires.
Your worshipps most dutiful Servant and Kinsman, ADRIAN POYNTZ.
74.
[Sidenote: 1591. _Bologna. T. Pasini._]
Fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii, et diversi dissegni di lavori; Come Merli, Bauari, Manichetti, & altre sorti di opere, che al presente sono in uso, utilissimi ad ogni stato di Donne. Seconda Impressione.
Impresa of Mercury. Below--
In Bologna, per Giovanni Rossi. MDXCI. Ad instanza di Tomaso Pasini.[1330]
{484}Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 18 plates like Vecellio, one "bavaro."
Dedicated by the author to "La Signora Silveria Rossi Ghisolieri."
Mostly indented patterns on black grounds.
75.
[Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._]
Prima Parte de' fiori, e disegni di varie sorti di Ricami moderni come merli, bavari, manichetti, & altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in uso.
A figure of Peace. Below--
In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace 1591.[1331]
Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 17 plates in the style of Vecellio.
Dedication to "La Signora Gabriella Zeno Michele," signed "Di Venetia alli 19 di Marzo, 1591, Giovanbattista Ciotti." The last plate a figure of Fortune, with "Finis in Venetia 1591. Appresso Nicolo Moretti, ad instantia di Francesco di Franceschi."
76.
[Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._]
La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono in uso & in pratica.
Impresa of Peace differing from the preceding.
In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace. 1591.[1332]
Obl. 8vo, 86 ff., 72 plates.
Dedicated to "Signora Lucretia Contarini, per matrimonio Priula Nobile Gentildonna Venetiana," by Giovanni Ostans.
A woodcut of Lucretia working with her maidens, signed Jose Sol. 1557.
Patterns, Small Squares, Gorgets, Youth, Paris, Pyramus and Thisbe, Arabesques, Grotesques, and an Alphabet.
On the last leaf, dorso, A. B. C. D. "tutte sono quaderni." A figure again of Peace, and "In Ven. 1590."
77.
[Sidenote: 1592. _Venice. 1st Book. C. Vecellio._]
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti.
Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent. "Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each side, and below--
Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.[1333]
Which is repeated in the 2nd and 3rd Books.
Obl. 4to, 32 ff., 28 plates.
Dedication of Vecellio "Alla Clarissima, et Illustrissima Signora, Viena Vendramina Nani, dignatissima Consorte dell' Illust^{amo} Sig. Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua, ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città." Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591.
Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti."
On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:--
"Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta. In me vedete atti gentili, e humani, Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta. Io sopra una Testugine dimora, Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora."
[Sidenote: _2nd Book._]
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo.
Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.
28 ff., 26 plates.
The dedication of this and the next book, though differently worded, are addressed to the same lady as the first. This is dated Jan. 24, 1591.
Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border.
[Sidenote: _3rd Book._]
Corono delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel {486}quale si dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di Mostri di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana. Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592.
Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de l'Arsenal, 11,955 _bis_) are added instructions to transfer the patterns upon parchment without injuring the book. The last plate shows how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them (Fig. 170). This is sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third.
28 ff., 26 plates, two of bavari.
On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:--
"Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto Una testa sì ben formata, tale, Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto, Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale, La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto."
78.
[Sidenote: 1594. _Venice. C. Vecellio._]
Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594.
Same impresa of the stork and serpent.
Dedicated to the Sign. Isabella Palavicina Lupi Marchesa di Soragana, dated "Venetia alli 20 Novembrio 1592." Cesare Vecellio. 30 plates.[1334]
{487}Vecellio, author of the _Corona_ and _Gioiello_, also published a work on costume styled _Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni_. _In Venezia_, 1590. _Presso Damian Zenero._ In the frontispiece is a salamander; on the last leaf a figure of Vesta. It has been reproduced by F. Didot, Paris.
He was not, as is often incorrectly stated, a relation, or even of the same family as Titian.
These are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of examining of Vecellio's works, which appear to have been widely circulated. The Bib. de l'Arsenal possesses two copies of the _Corona_ (No. 11,955), from which we have described. In the other (No. 11,155 _bis_), Book 1 "ultima," Book 2 "quarta," are both dated 1593; and Book 3 "nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta," 1592. The plates all the same.
The Library of Rouen (No. 1,315) has a volume containing the _Corona_ and _Gioiello_. Book 1 "quarta Imp.," Book 2 "ultima," both dated 1594; and Book 3 "quinta," 1593. The _Gioiello_, 1593.
In the Bodleian is a copy of the three books, date 1592; and another, date 1561, was in the possession of the late Mrs. Dennistoun of Dennistoun.
At Venice, in the Doge's Library, is a volume containing the three books of the _Corona_ and the _Gioiello_, dated 1593.
Mrs. Stisted, Bagni di Lucca, also possesses the three books of the Corona, dated 1597, and the Gioiello, 1592.
At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria."
The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the _Corona_, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the _Gioiello_, "nuovamente posto in luce." All "In Venetia appresso gli heredi di Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria. 1608."
At Vienna, in the new Museum for Art and Industry, is a copy of the five books, dated 1601.[1335]
Cav. Merli cites from a copy of the four books, dated 1600.
The various impressions, therefore, date from 1591 to 1608.
We see these different parts, like those of Vinciolo and all these old collections, have been printed and reprinted independently of each other, since the third part was at its fifth impression in 1593, while the first, which ought to have preceded it, was only at its fourth in 1594.[1336]
79.
[Sidenote: 1593. _St. Gall. G. Strauben._]
New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich.
{488}Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno 1593.[1337]
_Translation._
New Patternbook, in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new cutwork for collars, shirts, jackets, and such like, such as never before were seen in Germany. Most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic works, very respectfully dedicated.
Printed for the publisher, G. Strauben.
A reprint of the third book of Vecellio's Corona.
80.
[Sidenote: _N.D. Lindau am Bodensee._]
Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc.
Probably a reprint of No. 79.
27 plates.
81.
[Sidenote: 1597. _Liége. J. de Glen._]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, l'an 1597.[1338]
Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the title.
82.
[Sidenote: 1596. _Florence. M. Florini._]
Fior di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce. Fiorenze, 1596, ad instanza di Mattheo Florini.
4to obl., 24 plates and 2 leaves of text.[1339]
83.
[Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._]
Fiori di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi disegni di lavori, como merli, bavari, manichetti e altre sorte di opera. Siena, appresso Matteo Florini, 1603.
4to obl., 24 pages.[1340]
84.
[Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._]
Giojello, &c. Nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi {489}per fregi come per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII.
4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
85.
[Sidenote: 1597. _Nuremberg. B. Laimoxen._]
Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341]
_Translation._
Fine new Patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing, working, and embroidering: made in the year of Christ 1597, at Nurmberg: to be had of Balthasar Laimoxen.
Obl. fol., 27 ff.
5 sheets, title-page, and poem, signed J. S. (Johann Sibmacher.)
Mr. Gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title, dated 1591.[1342]
86.
[Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._]
Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard par Jacques Foillet (|)|)xciix (1598).[1343]
Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates.
Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé.
"Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages, & de cordonnages." The writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes, "very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine _pertuis_, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and lastly _dantelles_. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans, qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront & embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux." Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille."
The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in verse, of 21 lines, beginning--
"Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc.
40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé.
{490}And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed.
Then follow 20 patterns of lace, of "bien petites, petites, moyennes, & grosses," all "au point devant l'Esguille." (See Figs. 8 to 12.)
At the end: "La fin courone l'oeuvre." This is the earliest pattern-book in which the word "dantelle" occurs.
87.
[Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._]
New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner, mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344]
88.
[Sidenote: 1599. _Basle._]
Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt: von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und Gl[=u]cklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel.
In verlegung Ludwig K[=u]nigs MDXCIX.[1345]
Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates.
Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii., Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs."
89.
[Sidenote: 1601. _Paris._]
Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346]
In 4to obl.
90.
[Sidenote: 1601. _Nuremberg. Sibmacher._]
Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. Sibmacher.[1347]
91.
[Sidenote: 1604. _Nuremberg. J. Sibmacher._]
Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer {491}Arbeit auch andern kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348]
_Translation._
New book of patterns (on copper) in which are copied out all kinds of new patterns for thick and thin materials, to be used also in the making of other artistic needlework.
Obl. 4to, 58 plates carefully engraved upon copper.
Title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border, with two figures, one sewing, the other at embroidery; also a second ornamented frontispiece, dedication to Maria Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, dated 1601. Nuremberg, J. Sibmacher, citizen and engraver.
Then follow five pages of dialogue, given page 6, note 24, and 227.
A printed title to the next plate. "The following pattern may be worked in several different ways, with a woven seam, a flat, round, or crossed Jew stitch."[1349] It is probably meant for cut-work made on thin materials.
Then follow 58 leaves of patterns, the greater number of which have the number of rows written over each pattern. Pl. 38, with two patterns, is inscribed, "The following patterns are for thick cut-work." In the upper pattern, on the first leaf, are the arms of the Palatine; on the second, those of Juliers and Mark.
92.
[Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._]
Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di ponti in aria, reticella, di maglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati. Stampata in Venetia ad instantia di Luchino Gargano MDC.[1350] See also No. 99.
93.
[Sidenote: _N. D._]
Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351]
Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date.
94.
[Sidenote: 1604. _Padua. P. P. Fozzi._]
A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352]
95.
[Sidenote: 1605. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._]
Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen, als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (_Some of the words are illegible._)
Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille.
At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund Latomus, 1605."[1353]
Small obl. 100 plates (Fig. 171), and coloured title-page with figures.
In the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram (Fig. 172) surrounded with embroidery.
In the Nuremberg copy it is at p. 83.
96.
[Sidenote: 1607. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._]
Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern {493}anleytlich vnd verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi. M.D.C.VII.[1354]
Small 4to obl. 180 patterns.
Sheets A-O (the last has only 3 leaves). On the title-page are two ladies, one working at a pillow, the other at a frame; in the back-ground, other women employed at various works. Another copy dated 1629. Mr. Arnold and Mr. F. S. Ellis.
97.
[Sidenote: 1605. _Paris. M. Mignerak._]
La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355]
A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre roialle.
EXTRACT FROM "DISCOURS DU LACIS."
"Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure; Il commence par un, et va multipliant Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant, Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte, Croissant, et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte: Et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un, Du monde le principe et le terme commun. Si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire, Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire: Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir, Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir. Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée, Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée? Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions, De figures, de traicts et de dimensions? D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire, Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire, Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré. De six mailles se faict une figure egale, De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale: Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement {494} Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement. Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure. D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure. Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz, Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz. De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict, Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict, Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable, Or en lozange, et or en figure de table. La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux, Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux, Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe, Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne; Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal De science du livre et bonnet doctoral, Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice. La façon de lacer figure l'exercice D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer. . . . . . Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames Pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames, Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs, Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs, Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent, C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent."
In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates.
Frontispiece: Two ladies, with frames in their hands, labelled "Diana" and "Pallas." On the top, an escutcheon per pale France and Medicis, supported by Cupids. Beneath, Cupids with distaff and winding reels. Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.) Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle."
Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis, stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells not.
Then follows the "Discours du Lacis," a poem, of which we give an extract.
The privilege is signed Aug. 2, 1605.
The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4 Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;" 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau." (See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French pattern-books.
98.
[Sidenote: 1613. _Paris. F. Vinciolo._]
Les secondes oeuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de nouvelles inventions non encore vues.
{495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356]
A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of Vinciolo's work.
4to, 68 ff., 61 plates.
It contains a--
SONNET AUX DAMES & DAMOYSELLES.
"Esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse, Je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser, Quand vous desirez de gayement passer Vostre temps, et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse.
Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse, Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser. Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser. Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse.
Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait, Des chiffres et des noeuds, tels que l'amour desire.
Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez, Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire."
The author's address to the reader, and a
Dedication to "Madame, soeur unique du roy" (Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henry IV., married, 1599, to the Duc de Bar), signed by Le Clerc.
On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a frame and point coupé drapery.
7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion, Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches given to each.
2 Stomachers, and various patterns of "carrez " and borders. 2 of "Point de rebort."
At the end is the "Discours du Lacis," already printed by Mignerak.
99.
[Sidenote: 1616. _Rome. E. C. Parasole._]
Teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne, dove si rappresentano varij disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da Elisabetta Catanea Parasole Romana.
Dedicata alla Serenissima Principessa Donna Elisabetta Borbona d' Austria, Principessa di Spagna, da E. C. Parasole. Data di Roma a di 5 Marzo 1616.[1357] Other editions, 1620, 1625, and 1636. The last is dedicated to the Grand Duchess of {496}Tuscany, and has the Medici and Della Rovere arms in the title-page.
Obl. 4to, 47 ff., 46 plates (44 in Prince Massimo's copy) beautifully executed, the titles printed to each plate, as "Lavori di punti in aria, Merletti di ponti reticella, Merletti a piombini," etc. (See Fig. 15.)
100.
[Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._]
Pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di ponto in aria, reticella, dimaglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate. Stampata in Venetea ad instantia de Luchino Gargano MDC.[1358]
101.
[Sidenote: 1625. _Rome. I. C. Parasole._]
Gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne, dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de Ponti in Aria, Reticella, di Maglia, e Piombini disegnatida Isabella Catanea Parasole.
In Rome, appreso Guliegno Facciotti, 1625.
102.
[Sidenote: 1618. _Frankfort on the Mayn. D. Meyer._]
Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr.
Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich.
Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer Mahlern. 1ster Theil.
Franckfuhrt am Mayn, bey Eberhardt Kusern zu finden.
11 ff., 9 plates.
_Translation._
Decoration book of all sorts of Cords, Veil covers, Collars, Belts, Laces, Gloves, Shoulder knots, shoe-seams (?), Knife sheaths, Bags, Fruit, Flowers, and other things besides. Very useful to all Beadworkers, Seamstresses, Apprentices, and others, who take a pleasure or are fond of this art. Arranged and put into this form by D. M. M. 1st part.
103.
[Sidenote: 1619. _Leipsic. A. Bretschneider._]
New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit gantz Kunstlich gemahlt {497}und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19.
Inn Verleg[)u]ng Henning Grosseren, de J[)u]ngeren Andreas Bretschneider Mahller.[1359]
_Translation._
New pattern-book, in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for Head, Aprons, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, Caps, Gloves, Clock cases, Comb Cases, and such like, artistically sketched from painter and silk embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print.
Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. There appear to be 3 plates wanting.
104.
[Sidenote: 1624. _London._]
A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360]
Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s.
105.
[Sidenote: 1620. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361]
27 ff., obl. 8vo.
106.
[Sidenote: 1625. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._]
Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete. Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.
In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362]
Lady Wilton, in her _Art of Needlework_, quotes a copy dated 1620.
Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon.
{498}107.
[Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. Lucretia Romana._]
Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi, Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in Venetia.[1363]
Fol., 20 plates.
Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva.
The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;" "Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.)
The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p. flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars (gotico).
108.
[Sidenote: 1623. _Paris._]
Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege du Roy, 1623.[1364]
In 4to, 56 ff.
The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement."
Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria.
The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de feu Iean le Clerc."
Same sonnet.
Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623.
55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet.
{499}109.
A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632.
TO THE READER.
Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any other whatever.
VALE!
And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards, tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits, as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation.
110.
[Sidenote: 1632. _London._]
Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some {500}with Gould, some with Silke, and some with Gewell (_sic_) or otherwise at your pleasure.
London; Pinted (_sic_) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365]
Obl. 4to.
The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with "crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before." Printed by Rich. Shorleyker.
33 patterns and title.
111.
[Sidenote: 1640.]
The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640.[1366]
"Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James I."--(Douce.) From this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from Sibmacher.
"The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, _Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College, Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns.
112.
[Sidenote: 1642 _Pistoja. P. A. Fortunato._]
Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria, punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato.
In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20 1642.[1367]
{501}113.
[Sidenote: 1666. _Nuremberg._]
Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler.
Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates.
Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, 1666.[1368]
114.
In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure, gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book, without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations, most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks (Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns.
115.
[Sidenote: 1676. _Nuremberg. C. Gerharts._]
Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, Christoff Gerharts, 1676.
4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large.
116.
[Sidenote: 1722. _Paris._]
Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, 1722.[1369]
72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de l'aiguille," and others.
117.
[Sidenote: 1784. _Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel._]
Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen, sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel und Schneider. 1784.[1370]
{502}118.
[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin._]
Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371]
Oblong fol.
119.
[Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. J. Chr. Weigel._]
Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg (Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372]
49 plates in sheets.
{503}GLOSSARY OF TERMS.
_Bars._ See _Brides_.
_Bead Edge._ A simple heading for pillow lace.
_Bobbins._ Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles" or "jingles" (_i.e._, beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles).
_Brides._ A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent being _pearl-tie_. The French word is chiefly employed.
_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls.
_Buttonhole Stitch._ One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_.
_Cartisane._ A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread, used to form a pattern.
_Close Stitch_ = Buttonhole stitch.
_Cordonnet._ The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast with buttonhole stitches. In England called _gimp_.
_Couronnes._ Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as _fleurs volantes_.
_Coxcombs_ = Bars.
_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border.
_Droschel._ Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins.
_Dressed Pillow._ A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373]
{504}_Edge._ There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_ or _footing_.
_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate.
_Entoilage._ French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374]
_Fil de Crin._ A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374]
_Fil de Trace._ The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are distinguished.[1374]
_Fillings._ A word occasionally used for _modes_ or _jours_; fancy stitches employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374]
_Flax._ Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of _Linum usitatissimum_, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making.
_Fleurs Volantes._ See _Couronnes_.
_Fond._ Identical with _champ_, _entoilage_, and _treille_. The groundwork of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into _fonds claires_, _brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the _Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil de Perdrix_.
_Fond Simple._ Sometimes called _Point de Lille_; is the purest, lightest, and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other. [See _Grounds_.][1374]
_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_.
_Gimp._ The _pattern_ which rests on the ground or is held together by brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, which was formerly called _guipure_.
In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used to raise certain edges of the design.[1374]
_Gingles._ A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374]
{505}_Groppo_ [Italian]. A knot or tie.
_Grounds._ The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern.
_Guipure._ A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. _Guipure d'Art_ is the name given to modern darned netting.[1375]
_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_.
_Jours._ Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. The earliest forms of _jours_ may be seen in Venetian point lace, where they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device. [_Modes_ are identical with _jours_.]
_Legs_ = Bars.
_Mat_, or _Math_. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375]
_Modes._ See _Jours_.
_Oeil de Perdrix._ See _Fond_.
_Orris._ A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver.[1375]
_Passement._ Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked.
_Passementerie._ Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for dress trimmings.
_Pearls_, or _Purls_ = _Bars_.
_Pearl edge_, or _Purl edge_. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375]
_Pearlin_, or _Pearling_ [Scotch]. Lace.
_Picot._ Minute loops worked on to the edge of a _bride_ or _cordonnet_, or added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point, in which _picots_ play an important part.
{506}_Pillow Lace._ Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting threads. The French term is _dentelle au fuseau_.
_Pizzo_ [Italian]. Lace.
_Ply_ = A single untwisted thread.
_Point Lace._ Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is _Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace, such as _Point d'Angleterre_, _Point de Malines_, etc., which are laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle.
_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground.
_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch.
_Point Plat._ A French term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord.[1376]
_Pricked._ The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special marking out of the pattern upon parchment.
_Pricker._ A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the pattern to receive the pins.[1376]
_Punto a Feston_ = Buttonhole stitch.
_Purls_ = _Brides_.
_Purlings_ = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs.[1376]
_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to any English equivalent.
_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN).
_Rouissage._ The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making.
_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II.
_Runners._ The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known.
_Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler.
{507}INDEX
Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n1209
Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n1140
Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347
Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638
Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68
Addison, cited, 349
Addo, Marquis d', 459 n1264
Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156
Adélaïde de France, 182
Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5
Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370
Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264
Alb lace, at Granada, 92
Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n326
------ Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n242
Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n240, 78, 79 and n246
Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6
Alenches, 249
Alençon numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688, refugees from, in 18th century, 347
--------, Duke d', 140 n395
-------- lace (see Point d'Alençon)
Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409
Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n297, 103 n305
Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n273
---- thread lace Greek, 86 Italian, 79 and n245 Portuguese, 107 Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101
Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133
Altar-cloths, alternate designs on, 24 Bock collection, in, 23 Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9
Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23
Altenburg, 268
Alva, Duke of, 366 n1085
Alvin, M., 480 n1322
Amelia, Princess, 128
America, impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187 lace imported to, from-- Bailleul, 241 England (baby lace) 385 Grammont, 134 Italy, 75, 79 Mirecourt, 253 Portugal, 106 Saxony, 263 Spain, 102 Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n1099 war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408
Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259
Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n1093, 384, 396; cited, 264 n709, 265 n713, 286, 397
--------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346
Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196
Anne of Austria, influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150 Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n356 pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498 pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248 presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n961, 401
---- of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9
---- of Denmark, cost of lace of, 317 and n904, 320 and n925 Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320 English home industries encouraged by, 319 foreign lace purchased by, 327 funeral of, 325 and n934
---- of England (Queen Anne) household management of, 174 n516 Mechlin lace of, 126 and n360 period of, 347-350
Anspach, 265
--------, Margrave of, 178
Anti-Gallican Society Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429 prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n1058, 374 and nn, 380, 395, 398, 404 records of, cited, 373
Antwerp book sale at (1864), 482 Brussels lace made at, 130 Mechlin lace made at, 125 -------- lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Brussels lace compared with, 118 first mention of, 129 and n367 Spanish market for, 129-130
-------- lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n366
Anzola, M., 474
Application lace, 122; flowers, 252
Appliqueuse, work of, 122
Aprons, laced, 309 and n873, 338, 356 and n1062
Aranda, Madame d', 98 n280
Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418
Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446
Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436
Argentan, 202 and n569
-------- lace. _See_ Point d'Argentan
Argentella, 78 n244, 193 and n555
Argentine of Dorset, 310 n877
Argyle, Duchess of. _See_ Hamilton
Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397
Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438
Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n1286, 471 n1299
Arras early industries of, 239 gold lace of, 240 lace industry of, 238-240 lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240; with that of Mirecourt, 252 number of lace workers (1851), 257 n688
Arundel, Countess of, 12
--------, Lady, quoted, 395
Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n991
Asti, Baroness A. d', 79
Athens, white silk lace of, 86
Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361
Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58; cited, 78
Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n376, 160 n466, 228 n614, 231, 257 n688; cited, 184, 285, 292
Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n614
Augsburg, 266, 267
Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359
Aumale, Madame d', 183
Aurillac, 154, 246-250
Austria Albert Archduke, 113 n326 Anne of. _See_ Anne lace of, 268
Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100
Auvergne ancient names preserved in, 246 n658 lace exhibited (1867), 246 Maltese guipures made in, 88 mignonette made in (1665), 35 number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n688 petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64 thread used in, 245
--------, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183
Auvray, quoted, 224 n611
Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155
Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n526; cited, 184 n541
Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n1157
Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379
Baby lace, 385
Babylon, embroidery of, 3
Backhouse, James, 300
Bacon, Lord, 318
Baden, Princess of, 178
Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n830
Bailleul, 241 and n647, 257 n688
Baillie, James, 432
Baker, Robert, 437
Baldachino in Italian lace, 66
"Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24
Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267
Bampton, Mr., 343
Bands Falling. _See_ Falling Bands Lawyers', 337
Bannatyne, James, 422
Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n1046
Barante, M. de, cited, 111
Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105
Barbes, 168 n496, 180 and n533
------ pleines, 234 and n627, n628
Barcelona, lace industry of, 91, 101 and n294, 103 n305 pillows used at, 103 n305 silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88; used for blondes, 103
Bard, William, 403
Barleycorn net, 448
Barry, Madame Du. _See_ du Barry
Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n236
Baseus, N., 470
Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320
Basset, Anne, 290
------, Mary, 291
Bassompierre, 142
Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n1159
Bath Brussels lace, 405
Baucher, Canon, 226
Bauta, 57 and n193
Bavari, 55
Bavaria, Queen of, 421
Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393
Bay, Rudolf, 274
Bayeux, black lace of, 214, 226 Chantilly shawls made at, 215 lace industry, establishment of, 226; Lefébure's development of, 228; number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614 mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109 point d'Alençon of, 200 point de Marli of, 225 and n613 point de raccroc of, 120 Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103 Tapestry, 6
Bayman, Mrs., 107
Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n248
Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349
Bearing cloths, 309 and n871
Beau Nash on aprons, 356
Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n136
Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142; extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415.
Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351
Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324, 363 n1070, 365
Beauregard, 248 and n664
Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569
Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280
Beckmann, quoted, 92 n267
Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377
--------, Lady, 320
--------, Duke of, 360
--------, Lord, 348
Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385
Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n84, 98 and n280
Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n1157, 416 n1169, 417 and n1171
Beggars' lace, 34
Béguinage, 126, 130, 133
"Bèle, Prerie," 144
Belev lace, 283
Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant) lace industry (_See also_ Antwerp, Brussels etc.) application exported to France, annual value of, 252 centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 development of, 138 female education in, 112-113 guipures made by, 410 importance of, 112 and n324 numbers employed in (1861), 112 pillow lace. _See_ Valenciennes Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232 lace schools in, 113-115 linens and flax of, 405-407 pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n143 smuggling lace of, into France, 116 thread, fineness of, 119 n339 weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109
Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384
Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368
Bellini, lace in picture by, 47
Ben, Miss Mary, 398
Beni Hassan, figures at, 1
Beresford, Lord John George, 443
Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n1092
Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (_circ._ 1685), 264
Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n1359
Berry lace industry, 256
Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5
Bertin, Mlle., 181
Bertini, Cav., 462 n1270
Bess of Hardwick, 11
Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155
Bible printed by Quentell, 460
Bidney, Miss Jane, 409
Bigazzi, M., 468 n1293, 471 n1300
Billament lace, 48 and n159, 299 and n817
Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n381
------ lace, 118, 135 and n383, 136, 212
Bindoni, G. A., 471
Bingham, Lady, 439
Bisette (bizette), 33 and n102, 210, 256
Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317; ruffs worn by, 318
Black lace Caen fabric, 225 Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226 Calvados, 223 Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n584, 226 East Flanders fabric, 134 England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330; fashion introduced into, 153 n444; Lille fabric popular in, 237 fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 France, fashion introduced into, 153-154 Le Puy fabric, 245 Liège fabric, 137 n391 Lille fabric, 236, 237 loom-made, 432 n1212 masks of, 177 Saxony fabric, 263 Turin, at court of, 153 n445
Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n755
Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n1134
Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369
Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n472
Blonde de fil, 34 and n108, 237
Blonde-workers, wages of, 225
Blondes Almagro, at, 102 n297 Barcelona silk used for, 103 Caen, of, 224 Catalonian, 102 England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356; made at Sherborne, 397 French court, at, 182 Genoese manufacture of, 75 Le Puy, of, 245 Spanish, 103 n305 Vélay, of, 244 white, 214
Bobbin lace (_See also_ Pillow lace) Belgian, 123 bobbins used for, 296 n798 pillow lace a term for, 32 point duchesse, 123 royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n797 value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n797
------ net English machine-made, 447-450 France, first made in, 187
Bobbins description of, 32, 33, 295 n795, 391 and n1127 Honiton, at, 415 n1166 long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n798 materials used for, 32, 74 n235 number of, 33 n101 Peniche, at, 106 n314
Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n74, 24
Boenen, G., 311
Bohemia, modern lace of, 262
Boileau, quoted, 159
Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206
_Boke of Curtasye_, quoted, 290
Bolbec lace, 218
Bolingbroke, Lord, 351
Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n248
Bonald, Cardinal de, 183
Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n235
---- lace bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n798 explanation of term, 400
---- pins (_See also_ Bobbins), 295 n795
Bone-work, why so called, 294
Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155
Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77
Boot tops, 145, 150
Bordeaux fair, 43 n136
Borlase, Sir Henry, 378.
Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149
Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n1125
Boufflers, Governor, 236.
Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494
--------, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n344, 125 n354, 128 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, 195 n560
Bourg-Argental, 224
Bourges, 5, 256
--------, Archbishop of, 118 and n336
Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n283
Bowdon, Miss, 417
Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405
Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298
Bowie, J., 430 n1207
Bowll, William, 308.
Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414
Brabant (_See also_ Belgium) lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 point de Sedan, attributed to, 254
Brabant lace. _See_ Brussels, Mechlin, etc.
Braid, lace a term used for, 26
------ lace (Devonshire), 414 n1156
------ and cord lace, 446.
Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n1159
Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n1138
Brazil, lace of, 108.
Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n222, 75 n237, 78 n244; quoted, 75 n236; lace school under direction of, 81 n248
Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264
Brennar, Mr., 442 n1232
Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438
Bretagne, 229 and n617
Bretschneider, A., 496
Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n613
Bribes of lace, 351 n1045
Bridal veils, 78
Bride ground. _See_ Argentan ground.
------ lace, 302 and n829
Brides definition of, 31 and n91 Milanese lace, in, 75 n237 Spanish point, in, 58 thread guipures, in, 39, 40 _vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406
Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144
"Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n183, 192
Brittany, 229 and n617
Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6
Broderie des Indes, 229
-------- de Malines. _See_ Mechlin lace
Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329.
Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n1212
Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n1025
Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6
Bruges collection of lace at, 138 export trade with France, value of, 241 guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133 Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n624
Brunet, H., cited, 161 n472, 236 n633, 459, 461, 476; quoted, 466
Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374
Brussels lace Alençon, 200 application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252 arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 branches of industry, 123 Brussels the only place for, 118 colour of, 121 compared with-- Alençon, 199; Binche, 135; Lille, 237; point de France, 194; St. Trond, 137; Saxony needle point, 263 Cretan mesh work compared with, 87 designing of, 122 English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354 exported as "English point," 117 flowers of, 121 grounds of, 120; Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125 Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410 made at Antwerp, 130; at Chimay, 135 manufacture described, 31, 118, 119; titles of workers of various processes in, 122 Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124 patterns of, 122; date of earliest patterns, 116 point de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre popular establishment for English buyers, 124 price per pound, 119 n339; causes of high price, 118, 119; comparative cost of ground, 120; price of flounce of, 124 n352 thread used in, 118 and n338; fineness of 119 n339 value of, from one pound of flax, 120; intrinsic value of, 124 n352 veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n351; smuggled, 361 Venetian wear of, 57 and n192
-------- -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120
-------- net, 120 n345
Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111
Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n1024
Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383; value of, 402
Buffon, ruffles of, 173
Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n213
Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89
Bunt lace, 428
Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066
Burano Alençon point made at, 62, 200 Argentan made at, 62, 208 English thread used at, 394 n1128 number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128 revival of lace industry at, 58-62
Burato, 53
Burgoigne, 205 n573, 216 n594
Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n684, n685; lace-makers from, in London, 373
--------, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111
--------, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82
--------, Duchess of, 167 n492
Burke, Patrick, 323
Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13
Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379
Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n1211
Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408
Byas, 299 and n815
Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45
Cabanillas, cited, 102
Cadenetas, 95
Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431; quoted, 118 and n337, 137, 260; Dresden ruffles of, 262
Caen black lace of, 226 blonde lace of, patterns, 224; quality, 224; rise and fall of industry, 225 Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215; Chantilly made at, 224 number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225; (after 1848), 228 n614 price of lace of, 224
Cahanet, 226
Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225
Calepino, T., 474
Callot, engravings of, 146
Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297
Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n614, 257 n688
Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n508
Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435
Cambury, Lord, 403
Campan, Mme. de, 180 n533
Campane, 34 and n104, n106, 51
Campanner, 343 n1017
Campany, cited, 99
Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95
Candy, thread lace from, 38
Canetille, 36
"Canons," 153 and n441
Canossa, Contessa, 469
Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n1207
Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n7
Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80
Capefigue, quoted, 166
Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351
Cardinals, 356 and n1059
Cardwell, Mr., 384
Carew, Sir G., 308 n870
Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47
Carpentier, Madame, 226
Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98
Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440
Carrouges, 206
Cartisan, 36
Cary, John, quoted, 849 n1325
Castanaga, M. de, 167
Castlebar, lace industry at, 439
Catalonia, blonde made at, 101; blonde mantillas of, 88, 226
Catgut lace, 343, 430 n1207
Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494
---------- of Braganza, 43 n137
---------- de Médecis, bed of, 22 bizette of, 33 n102 Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67 lace-making at court of, 140 and n395 needlework of, 11 Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17
Cattern's Day, 376
Cauellat, Veuve, 476
Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n390
Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n397
Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307
Cecyll, Richard, 291
Celle, D., 466
Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86
Cerceau, A. du, 476
Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88
Challus, Anne, 184 n540
Chambrières, 8
Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255
Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n1046
--------, Lady, 294 n791, 297 n811, 307 n862, 308 n867
Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n1098
Channon, Miss Mary, 398
"Chansons a toile", 8 and n29
Chantilly number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688 point tresse made at, 314
---------- lace black, 226 Caen manufacture of, 224 Genoese imitation of, 75 industry of, 212-215 Saxony lace compared with, 263 Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103 Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106
Charles I. (England) Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n1097 carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298 extravagance of, 326, 327 and n950, 328 Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n678, n679, 205 n612 marriage accounts, 296 period of, 326-332 picture catalogue of, cited, 296
-------- II. (England) Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n981 Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125 foreign lace imported by, 336 and n985 period of, 335-339 silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n841
--------, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n940, n941
-------- V. (Belgium) cap of, 113 lace-making encouraged by, 113 portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459
-------- VIII. (France), 139 n393
-------- IX. (Sweden), 279
-------- X., 143 n412
-------- the Bold, 111
Charleville lace, 183 n539, 254 and n680
Charlotte, Queen Armada pattern lace of, 397 British lace worn by, 363, 398 favourite lace of, 128 lace industry started by, 374 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046
Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395
Charollais, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n353, 129 n364, 162 n475, 175 n520, 135 ruffles of, 233 n626
Chat, 181 and n536
Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584
-------- -Renaud lace, 254
-------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253
Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671
Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287
----------, Zacharie, 259
Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n50
Chaumont, 251 n673
Chauvin, Pierre, 230
Cheney, lace industry at, 384
Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358
Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n535
Chevreuse, Madame de, 168
Cheyne lace, 438
Chiavari _Macramé_ of, 79 tape guipure of, 75
Chicago Exhibition. _See under_ Exhibitions
Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n262
Chick, Mrs., 407 n1153
Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61
Children as lace-makers, 103 n305, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438
Chili lace, 108
Chimay lace, 134-135
China drawn work of, 46 silk lace not in demand in, 89
------, lace exchanged for, 349
Choïsy, Abbé de, 167
Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872
Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274
Christina, Queen, 73 n230
Church of England appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331 inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293 ruffs worn by Bishops, 318; sermons against ruffs, 316
------ of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183
Churchill, Lord, 403
Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n1021
Cicognara, Count, 467 and n1286
Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88
Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145
Ciprioto, 82 n252
Cistercians, 7
"City Match," quoted, 324
Clarke, Jane, 443 n1233
Claver, Alice, 288
Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350
Clement VII., Pope, 62
-------- IX., Pope, 70
-------- X., Pope, 172 n505
Clément, M., 226
Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578
Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n1222
Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445
Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51
------ lace Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659 Mirecourt fabric, 252
Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n249
Cochon, cited, 256 n686
Cock (fontange), 423
----, Hieronymus, 493 n1354
Cockscombes, 344
Code Michaud, 148
Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n1230
Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n351
"Col rabattu," 145
Colbert, Chevalier Aurillac lace of, 248 chief director of trade, 158 n461 death of, 192 development of lace industry by, 154; extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155 difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n461, n462 fabrics attempted by, 255, 256 fabrics established by, at Arras, 239 and n644 Aurillac, 247 Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584 Le Quesnoy, 230 Loudun, 256 Huguenots protected by, 100 inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692 Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151 ordinance of, 54 point d'Alençon established by, 188 points de France, established by, 33, 111 Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202
Colbertine, 337, 339 and n996, n997, n998
Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n935
Cole, A. S. cited, 91-92 and n268, 446 n1236; quoted, 193 n555, 203 n570 Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n1232
Collaert, engraving by, 109 n319
Collars, hunting, 328
Collectors of lace, 364
Cologne pattern book, 268
Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435
Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143
Colyton military thieves at, 403 tomb in church of, 403 n1145
Commode. _See_ Fontange
Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13
Compas lace, 297 and n809
Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n800
Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70
Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558
Congreve, cited, 344 n1021; quoted, 339
Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484
Conti, Prince de, marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n472 point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248
Contrada del Pizzo, 59
Connet, lace trade at, 270.
Cooke, quoted, 414
Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n965
Coral point, 51
Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50
Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408
Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85
Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445
"Corona" of Vecellio. _See_ Vecellio
Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n102, 36 n112
Cotton lace, 187
------ weaving, at Ghent, 134
Couronne (picot), 31 and n92
Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n338
-------- lace. _See under_ Valenciennes lace
Cousin, Jean, 476
Couvin lace, 138 n392
Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424
Coventry blue, 302
Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224
Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379
Coxcombs, 31
Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934
Crâponne fabric, 246
Cravat, laced introduction of, 337 origin of, 42 n135 stock the successor of, 345
Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223
Créquy, M. de, 143
------, Madame de, quoted, 175
------, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n511, 250 and n668
Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87
Crochet, Irish, 444-445
-------- hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74
-------- needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n237
Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334
Crown lace, 299 and n814
Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083
Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148
Cuença, 246
Cuipure (guipure), 37
Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319
Cunningham, quoted, 308 n866
Curragh point, 443 and n1233
Curtius, M., 143 and n412
"Custom of the Country" quoted, 324
Cut-work ecclesiastical use of, 15 Elizabeth's use of, 303-305 Italian, 325 James I.'s time, 322, 325 lace known as, 2 name explained, 19 pall of, used in Dieppe, 25 Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n248 smocks adorned with, 25 toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25
Cyprus, needlework of, 82
d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638
d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475, 476 and n1315, 477
Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n895
Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n392
Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338
Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263
Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444
Damer, Mr., 364
Dammartin lace, 212
Dangean, quoted, 167, 178
Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490
d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n280
Darned netting, 20, 21
Dartmouth, Lord, 379
Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n474
Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70
Davies' _Epigrams_ quoted, 323 n933
Davey, Mrs., 409
Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235
de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357
de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208
de Staël, Madame, 180
Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248
Debts for lace, 353 and n1050.
Decker, T., quoted, 315 n895
Defoe, quoted, 43 n140, 171 n503, 377 and n1111, 378, 379, 380 and n1119, 396, 397, 403; cited, 344
Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n344, 121, 355; cited, 413 n1161
Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6
Denmark cut-work of, 276, 277 embroidered tulle of, 229 grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082 lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder) export trade, 274 n736 lace postmen, 274, 277 origin of, 272 protected by Christian IV., 274 quality of lace, 275 Wulff's revival of, 276 and n739
Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487
Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227
Dentelière, work of, 122
Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80
-------- à la Reine, 259 and n692
-------- à la Vierge, 220
"Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32
Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927
------, Lady, 342
------ rib, 448 n1239
Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393
Derode, V., quoted, 236 n630, n633
Desborough, lace industry of, 379
Desmarquets, cited, 219 n603
Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222
Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 n455
------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157
Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571, 307; cited, 192 n552, 203
d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61 family, auctions of, cited, 46
Devonshire bone pins used in, 294 lace of. _See_ Honiton, Trolly villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n1143; those now engaged in, 403 n1147
----------, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360
----------, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426
Diamond lace, 299-300 and n818
"Diarium Vadstenoense" 278
Didot, F., 487
Dieppe cut-work, pall used in, 25 lace industry of, 218-220, 223
------ lace, 183 n539
Dieudonné-- quoted, 225 n613, 231; cited 237 n639
Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255
Dike, Ric. 319 n918
Dinant muslin-work, 138 n392
Dinghen, Madame, 311
Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405
Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66
Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n329
Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n500, n501
"Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281
Donat, Père, 501
Donchéry lace, 254
Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186
Dorsetshire lace, 396-398; value of, 402
Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497
Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176
Double ground, 386
Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n1366
Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n720
Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n935
"Down," 390
Draper, Mrs., 13
Drawn-work, method of, 25 Sicilian, 81 South American, 188 wire, 72
Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n1207
Drocheleuse, work of, 122
Droschel, 119
Drouais, 168
Dryden, quoted, 425
Du Barry, Madame accounts of, quoted, 34 n106, 120 and n341, n343, n344, 126 n356, 129 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 175 n520, 178 n529, 181 n534, 195, 207 and n577, 231 and n621, n622, 233 n625, n626 Indian muslin bought by, 179 inventories of, quoted, 213 n592, 250 n666, n667
Du Haillan, 142 n408
Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439
Dubois, C., cited, 137 n389, 138 n392
------, 468
Duchesse lace, 123
Dulaure, cited, 173 and n513
Dumont, manufactory of, 211
------, Mlle., 105 n312
Dunbar, Mrs., 443
Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n1004
Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n576
Dupont, M., cited, 204
Duras, Duc de, 207 n577
------, Duchesse de, 213 and n591
Duref Henri, cited, 247
Durham, St. Cuthbert's cope and maniple at, 7; his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366
Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423
Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n378
Duthie, Mlle., 181
Duval, M., 224
Dysart, Countess of, 344 n991
"Each," 391
_Eagle_ (French vessel), seizure of, 101
Earnings and wages of lace-workers Alençon, 192 Arras (1788), 239; (1851), 240 Bedfordshire, 377 blonde-workers, 225 Denmark (1848), 277 n741 Devonshire, 414, 416 n1168; Honiton, 407 and n1153 Dorsetshire, 398 Flemish thread-spinners', 119 France, average (1851), 257 n688; their savings, 159 n464 Genoa, 77, 78 Mechlin, 127 Mirecourt, 252 n675, 253 Normandy, 223, 228 n614 Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390 Scotland, 434 Spain, 102 Switzerland, 270 Val, 233, 234 n627 Vélay, 244 Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373
Eaton, John, 336
------, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n282
Ecclesiastical lace Athenian--for Jewish Church, 86 Burano school allowed to copy, 62 decline of, since the Reformation, 331 Greek, 83 Ionian, 86 Italian, 47 and n154 Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n1108 Maltese, 88 Scotch, 418, 419 Spanish, 90, 92 washing of, 373 n1101
Ecouen lace, 210 n589
Eden, Mrs., 443
Edgithe, Queen, 6
Edict of Nantes, Revocation of effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254, 258 settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265
Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland, 262, 263, 429, 430 and nn
Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6
Edward III. pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n794 thread veils of time of, 285.
Edward IV. Irish smock of, 436 wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288
Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293
Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349
----------, Earl of, 364
Egenolffs, C., 470
Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1
Ekenmark, cited, 280 n748
Elberfeld, 265
Eleanor of Austria, 262 n701
Elgin marbles, designs in, 3
Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325
---------- of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495
---------- of Bohemia, 294 n794
---------- of Denmark, 272
----------, Queen anecdote referring to, 38, 297 cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n871 cut-work of, 303-305 false hair of, 314 and n894, n895 foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310 Irish at court of, 435 laces of, 299-300; lace made from human hair, 313; Genoa and Spanish lace, 307; parchment lace, 298; cost of lace furnished to, 308 New Year's gifts to, 294 n791, 295, 303 n833, 304 n834, n835, n836, n837, 307 and n862, 308 n867, n870, 310 n875, n876 old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320 presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n1184; from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n1187 ruffs of, 310-313; 316 n901 skill of, in needlework, 500 smock made by, 10 and n32; smocks of, 308, 408 stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n1240 wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72; quoted, 92, 98 n282, 297 and n811, 299 and n814, n815, n816, n817, 300-301 and n820, n821, n824, n826, 302 and n827, 304 n834, n838, 307 and n861, n865, 309 n873, 311 n880, 312 n882, 314 n895, 372 n1098
----------, reign of christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309 habits of people in, 310 n877 importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n794 lace, use of, in, 300 laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n874 measures against luxury of the people, 301 sumptuary laws, 306 and n855 value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n859 Venice lace of, 48 and n154
---------- of York, Queen, 9 n30, 48, 289
Elliott, Julian, 328
Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n147
Embroidery Anglo-Saxon, 5-7 Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n13 drawn-thread work, 25 ecclesiastical, 4-7. Egyptian, 1 Greek, 2, 3 and n8 Jewish, 2 Spanish, 103
Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77
Engageantes, 168
Enghien lace, 134
"Engines" for lace-making, 324 n935
England (_for_ counties, towns, etc., _see their titles_) French fashions, method of obtaining, 170 frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n877 lace in account of (_See also_ names of sovereigns), 285 _et seq._ date of establishment of industry, 286-288; origin of, 111; centres of, before 1665, 44 n144; impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138 earliest mention of, 285 Flanders, trade with (1768), 115; Flemish lace. _See_ that title foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347; imported, 245, 251, 288, 291 smuggling of. _See that title_ Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298 Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331 sumptuary laws. _See that title_ Vinciolo published in, 482
Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496
Entoilage, 30, 250
Épinal, 251
Equipage de bain, 168
Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307
Ericksholm, 280
---------- Castle, 279
Erikson, Gustaf, 280
Erzgebirge lace, 263
Essex, Earl of, 401
Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61
---- family, archives of, cited, 46
Etrepagny lace, 213 n589
Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222
Eugénie, Empress, 198
Evans, Mrs., 308 n869
Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n496, 338, 339; cited, 57
Exeter, Bishop of, 316
------, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n755
Exhibitions Chicago World's Fair Honiton lace at, 416 n1169 Italian lace at, 46 n150 Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886), Cyprian lace at, 82 Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208 (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; lace industry developed since, 392 (1855) (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 198 equipage of King of Rome at, 196 needle-point dress at, 245 (1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339 (1862) (International) Spanish exhibits at, 103-104 threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339 Wadstena lace at, 280 1867 (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 200 Burano laces at, 58 Honiton lace at, 410 macramé shown at, 79 Mechlin lace at, 125 oyah at, 87 point gaze at, 123 Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n373 1874 (International) Austrian lace at, 268 Brussels lappet at, 411 Russian towels at, 283 Valenciennes lace at, 131 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 1900 (Paris), 268
Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324
Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333
Fairs, 43 and n136, n137, n140, 326 n945
Falbala, 167 and n492
Falcon, T., 246
Fallals, 350 and n1043
Falling bands, 321 n928, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336
Fambri, Signor, 61
"Fameuse poupée," 170
Fanciulle, 462
Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333
Farbeck, John, 300
Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at Alençon, 155 and n454, 189
Feather-stitch, 8
Fécamp lace, 218
Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402
Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437
Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99
Felkin, Mr., cited, 447
Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96
Feret quoted, 219 and n604
Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n665
Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102
Ferrara archives of, quoted, 46 and n150 Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n243
Fielding quoted, 354 n1053
Filet brodé à reprises, 20
Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458
Fillings, 31
Filo di freta (_See also_ Aloe thread), 79 n245
Firenzuola cited, 46 n152, 47, 57 n172; quoted, 66 and n207
Fisher, Bishop, 292
Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n908, 332
Flanders emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112; emigrants in London, 373; in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n1105; in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n1140; expelled from England (1572), 306 lace. _See_ Flemish lace. lace school in, description of, 114-115 Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98 thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n935 water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n1125
--------, East, lace of, 133-134
--------, West lace workers of, 133 and n378 Valenciennes lace of. _See_ Valenciennes Flax age of, 259 n697 cotton substituted for, 187 spinning of, in damp cellars, 405
Fleming, Lady, 10
Flemish lace. (_See also_ Belgium _and_ Brabant) arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99 black lace exported, 117 n330 cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117 coffin containing, 61 Danish imitation of, 275 England bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n1045 exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341 fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340 imitations in, 384, 404; Honiton reproductions, 411, 416 trade with (1768), 115 France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150; trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583; prohibited, 142 importance of industry of, 111 Liège, 136-137 "Malines," a term for, 125 origin of, 109 types of, 115-116 white work, 294 and n791
Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n1145
Fleurens, 270
Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176
Florence gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92 Greek lace made at, 85 industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n248 lace industry of, account of, 66-68; "fine dantelle de," 27 Le Puy, imports from, 245 n657
Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291
Florini, M., 488
_Flying Postman_ advertisement in, 129
"Flys," 416 n1170
Foillet, J., 489, 490
Fonneuse, work of, 122
Fontange (Commode) "cock" the Scotch term for, 423 description of, 168 n486, 342, 350 n1043 extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n1035 story of, 164
Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n153
Fontenay, lace, 212 n589
Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n615
Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n475
Foote, quoted, 171 n503
Footing, 31, 168 n496
Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209
Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004
Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682
Foresto, I., 471
Fortunato, P. A., 500
Foskewe, Sir John, 22
_Four P's, The_, cited, 43 n139
Fournier, quoted, 209 n583
"Fourpenny Spot," 372 n1095
Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n23
Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n1169
Fozzi, P. P., 491
France. _For_ districts, towns, etc., _see their titles_ bobbin net introduced into, 187 customs of French ladies, 168-170 états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153 Fairs in, 43 n136 Fashions fashion dolls, 170 and n500, n501 Italian influence on, 139 and n393 Louis XIV., under, 167 first appearance of lace in, 139 n393 First Empire Brussels lace at court of, 123 lace industry under, 184 morning costume under, 185 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 Florentine lace used in (1545), 67 imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347 Italian guipures exported to, 75 Italy, relations with (16th century), 476 lace industry in. _See_ French lace industry lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428 ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24; as lace-makers, 163 men as embroiderers in, 13 point d'Espagne consumed in, 90; made in, 100 points de Venise from, 54 Quintain named from Brittany town, 19 lace industry improved by, 383 refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n1098; to England, 324 n935 Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368, 408 Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 Spanish imports of lace from, 101 sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451 tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387 yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909
France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493
Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484
Francis I. Aurillac lace of, 247 pattern book dedicated to, 461
Frankfort-on-the-Maine fair at, 43 n136, 326 n945 pattern book published at, 267
Frano, G., 477
Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354
---------- IV., 274
---------- William of Brandenburg, 264
French lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 cheap lace, 187 and n546 Colbert's development establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158 establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465 principal centres, 159 n464 pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454 First Empire, under, 184 foreign trade Bruges, annual value of, with, 241; with Flanders, 209 n583; Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n376 Germany, with, 265 prohibition of, with Flanders, 142 rivalry of Holland in, 258 smuggling from Belgium, 116; from Switzerland, 270 statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n466 number of lace-makers in (present day), 188; table of (1851), 257 n688 Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n437 pattern books, 144 and n420, n421, n422, n423 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159 point d'Espagne, 100 Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n437 varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35 width of lace restricted, 152-153
Freyburg, 268
Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n718
Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342
Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150
Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271
Fugio lace, 74
Fuller, quoted, 378, 401
Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347
Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98
Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28
----------, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n413, n414, n415
Gaguef lace, 281
_Gan, Le_, quoted, 24
Gantes, Mlles., 250
Garden, Lord, quoted, 119
Garnica, John de, 113 n325
Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n685
Garnitures de lit, 174 and n519, n520
Garters Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301 trimmed with point, 145
Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27
Gaudronnées collerettes, 17
Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252
Genoa Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 collars of, 74 earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78 embroidered lace of, 77; embroidered tulle, 229 gold work of, 47, 72 guipures of, 74 lace of Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Honiton reproduction of, 411 point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865 lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74; decline of, 74 silk work of, 72 sumptuary laws in, 73 Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225
Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n244
Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78
Geometrical patterns cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113 Cretan, 86 Greek lace, 20, 85 ruffs of, 316 Swedish, 25 Vecellio's, 111 Vinciolo's, 18
George I. Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n361 period of, 351-353 wardrobe account of, 240 and n645
------ II., period of, 354-357
------ III. English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n1068, 381 period of, 363-370 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046
------ IV., wardrobe of, 364 n1073
Geharts, C., 501
Germany fairs in, 43 n136, n140 guipures imported into, 36 lace imported into, 245, 251, 254 lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 export trade with France, 265 North and South Edict of Nantes Revocation--emigration of fugitives into, 264-265 religion of lace-workers, 264 sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264 Nuremberg (_See that title_) origin of, 111 pattern-books, 266-268 Saxony (_see that title_) luxury, outbreak of, 265-266
Geslin, Simon, 193
_Gespeldewerkte kant_, 32 n98
Ghent lace Brussels lace compared with, 118 manufacture of, 133-134 trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134 Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n624
Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484
Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n1088
Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423
------, Miss Mary, 438
Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69
Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n455, 156, 157 and n458
Gimp Brussels lace, in, 406 method of making, 33 silk, at Ragusa, 84
Gioiello, 486
Giraldini, Catherina, 500
Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n589, 215
Glairo, Mlle. U., 235
Glandore, Lord, 436
Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n1338
----, Miss, 431 n1209
Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369
Gloves, laced, 337 and n991
Goats' hair lace, 245
Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425
Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57
Godric, 6
Gohory, Anne, 183 n540
Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n996
Golconda, King of, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Gold lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace) Arras, of, 240 England, imported to fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307 monopoly in, under James I., 318 prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349; by George II., 355 n1057; confiscation and burning of, 359 France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154; of Paris, 211-212 Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73 Hamburg, of, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, imported into, 322 n928, 329 and n958 Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439 Jewish manufacture of, 92 Lyons, of, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Russia, of, 283 Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422 Sicily, of, 80 Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248 Sweden, of, 280 Zurich, of, 271
---- guipure work, Swedish, 277-278
---- purles, 330
---- thread duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 Italian (fourteenth century), 72
---- wire, protest by handspinners of, 335
Golden Horn, 273
Goldoni, cited, 57 n192
Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218
Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582
Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146
Gooding, James, 413, 414
Gorget (whisk), 334
Gormont, 464
Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57
Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88
Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n1021, 349 n1037
Gramite, 46 n150
Grammont lace, 134
Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93
Granson, battle of, 111
Grave-clothes Duke of Alva's, 366 n1085 Ionian lace sold from, 86 lace decorations of, 365-367 St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366
Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207
Great Marlow bone lace trade of, 319 lace school at, 378
Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n816
Greek lace. (_See also_ Cyprus _and_ Ragusa) Devonshire imitation of, 414 n1165 Italian cut-work so called, 20 Milan point, 65 reticella so called, 50, 85
Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n8
Green, quoted, 296
------ silk lace, 291 n783
Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n926
Gremial, 70 n217
Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297
Grillé, 30 n89
Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307
Gropari (punto a gropo), 52
Gros point de Venise. _See_ Point de Venise, rose point
---- René, 32
Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589
Ground absent in certain laces, 31 kinds of, 30 round, 39
Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n1316, 487 n1335, 489
Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138
Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42
Guibray fair, 43 n136
Guipure Flemish, 123, 133 Genoese, 74 Honiton (modern), 409, 410 Maltese, 88 method of making, materials, uses, 35-40 modern, 39, 40 parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38 point de Venise, 49 tape, 39, 75 Turkish, 87
Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n1199, 428, 429
Gurbert, cited, 219 n602
Gustavus Adolphus, 282
Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280
Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205
Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n657
Haag, cited, 265 n714, 269 n725
Haarlem thread, 216 n595, 223 n608, 245, 259 and n695, n697
Hailstone, Mrs., 23
Hainault, laces, 134 _et seq._; lace flowers, 121
Hair false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn fashion of wearing, 341 lace made from, 313; horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245 wigs, 336, 349
Hal, flax grown at, 118
Haliwell, quoted, 297 n809
Halle lace, 265
Hamburg point, 264
Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n1199, 428, 429
--------, Lady Jane, 123 n351
Hamilton lace, 430
-------- net-work (modern), 434 n1216
Hamlet on the French stage, 186
Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447
Hand, Mrs., 445
Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n874, 337
Hangkow, lace made in, 89
Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n1037
Hanover fabrics, 265
Hanslope lace industry, 380 n1119
Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n927
Harent, Ignace, 230
Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333
Hartruide, Madame, 279
Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n927
Hatfield, old needlework at, 11
Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n941
Hauslaub, General von, 263
Havre lace, 183 n539, 217 n595, 218; number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218
Hay, Lord, 64
Hayman, Mrs., 410
Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n1127
Headdresses (_See also_ Fontange) Louis XIV. styles, 164-166 mignonette lace used for, 35 prices of "heads," 348 Roman, 165 n486
"Heller," 391
Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502
Henderson, Anne, 430
Heneage, George, 346
Henrietta Maria inventory of, cited, 29 and n87, 146 n426 present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n961
Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n569
-------- (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n393, 262 n701
Henry III. (England), 37, 43; portrait in Pattern Book, 480
---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141
Henry IV. (France) fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501 Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210 measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405 shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412
------ VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n761
------ VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n772
------ VIII. Act for the true making of pins, 294 n794 foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291 inventory of, cited, 372 n1098; quoted, 104 lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n772 sumptuary laws of, 436 and n1220 wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n768, n769
------, Prince (1607), 296 n798
Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n416
Herbert, Miss, 416
Herbouville, cited, 131 n371
Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72
Hergosse, M. de, 177 n525
Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n711
Hieronimo, Fra., 469
High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380
Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329; veil bequeathed to, 421
Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74
Hoche, General, 13
Hoffmann, Hans, 469
Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499
Hölesom, 280
Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302
Holland Dutch extravagance in lace, 260 Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n695, n697 lace imported into, 251, 254 lace industry in, 258-260 and n689 rivalry with French lace trade, 258
Hollie work, 325 and n939
Hollow lace, 299 and n816
Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344; quoted, 251, 296 n799, 339
Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275
Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420
Honfleur lace, 183 n539, 218
Honiton, lace school at, 414
-------- lace account of, 399-411 bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n1166 Bruges lace a rival to, 133 guipure, 40 Indian contrasted with, 89 Japanese imitations of, 417 point duchesse compared with, 123
-------- lace-makers, skill of, 417 n1171
Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423
Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194
Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170
Hove, Callys de, 306
Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n906
Hubert, Soeur, cited, 220 n606
Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164; cited, 136 n384
Humphrey, Thomas, 401
Hungarian lace, 268
Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395
Hunt, Susanna, 438
Hurdle, Mary, 395
Hutchins, quoted, 396 n1133
Hutchinson, Colonel, 333
----------, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12
Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71
Iberian lace, 104
Ile de France. _See_ Isle de France
India lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n928, 329 and n958 pillow-laces of, 88 and n263, 89
India Museum, pillow laces in, 89
Indian muslin, 179-180
------ work of Denmark, 275
Innishmacsaint, 446
Innocent IV., Pope, 7
Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100
Insertion, 388
Ionian Isles lace manufacture of, 85 lace from tombs of, 365
Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n761
Ireland Bath and Shirley School, 440 club against "foreign fopperies," 438 Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439 lace industry in, 436-446; Maltese guipures made in, 88; Irish point, 443 and n1233 prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262 sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n1220 yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436
Iron Mask, 166 n490
Isabella, Infanta, 113
--------, Princess (Sweden), 279 n746
"Isabelle" tint, 121
Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n705
Isle de France lace industry in centres of (17th century), 209 and n582, 210 Chantilly, 212-215 cheap laces, 210 Dumont's fabric, 211 Huguenots engaged in, 209 Spanish imports of lace from, 99
Israel, J., 469
Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288
Italy (_For_ towns, etc., _see their titles_) France, relations with, 16th century, 476 invention of lace claimed by, 109; of point lace, 45 lace imported by, 245, 251 n670 lace of (_See also_ Point _and_ Punto) centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n144 England, fashionable in, 318; imitated in, 416 n1169, 417 Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85 Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105 Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97 lace schools of, 81 n249 revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n175 silk gimp specimens from, 85 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 white thread made in, 49 n165
Jabot, 172
Jacobites, 425, 426
James I. gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n921 Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n878, 317 and n903, 318 nl7 Honiton lace industry in time of, 401 lace of, 64 monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378 period of, 315-326 ruffs under, 315-318
------ II. Edinburgh visited by, 425 period of, 340
------ V. (of Scotland), 372 n1098, 418 and n1172
------ VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n1195
------, Jacques, 205
Jane Seymour, 292
Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417
Jean lace. _See_ Genoa lace
Jerphanion, Sieur, 244
Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097
Jesuit lace, 445 and n1234
Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331
Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62
Jew stick, 491 and n1349
Jewellery of 18th century, 346
Jews Athenian lace used by, 86 embroidery of (ancient), 2 gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n270
Jingles of bobbins, 391 n1127
Johan Adolf, Prince, 282
Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367
Jointeuse, work of, 122
Jolly, Margareta, 348
Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n139, 302, 313 n890, 316 and n922, 318 n910, n912, 327
Josephine, Empress, 123 n351, 177 n526
Jours, 31
Judith of Bavaria, 5
Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327
Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d'
Jurdaine, Mary, 306
Jutland lace industry, 274
Katherine of Aragon, Queen Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n1106, n1107, 376 needlework of, 9, 10 and n32 portrait of, 129 n367 Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n32, 310
----------, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43
---------- Parr, Queen, 10 n34
Keck, 423
Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n728
Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444
Kennedy, Tristram, 440
Kettering, lace industry of, 384
Killigrew, quoted, 318 n908
Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n1198
Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n1187
Knight, cited, 396
------, Miss, quoted, 264
Knole, old needlework at, 11
Knotted fringe, 13 and n47
-------- lace, 52, 68
Knox, Miss Jane, 438
Koehler, statuette by, 262
Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366
La Boord, Madame, 43
La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249
"La Fontange," story of, 164
La Mancha, lace factory at, 102
La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357
La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458
"La Providence" nuns, 226
La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280
Laborde, cited, 151 n438
Lace (_See also_ Old lace) Biblical meaning of term, 2 definition of term, 26 foreign equivalent of term, 26 n77 manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n144 parts of, 30 point and pillow, 32
---- Association, aims of, 393
Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n874
Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415
Lacis Aurillac, 248 book of (1587), 18 definition of, 20 and n61, 21 _Don Quixote_, mentioned in, 98 n281 German, 264 Punto a maglia quadra, 52 Sicilian, 81 Tuscan, 68
Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n1103
Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n501
Laffemas, quoted, 209 n583
Laid work, 301
Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489
Lalande, cited, 64
Lalma, 246
Lamb represented in lace, 21
Lamballe, Princesse de, 213
Lappets. _See_ Barbe
Larkin, Thomas, 312
Laroche, lace made at, 137
Larruga, cited, 101
Lassels, cited, 70; quoted, 73
Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492
Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282
Laulne, E. de, 476
Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094
Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540
Laybach, 268
Le Prince, 465
Le Puy lace industry of cheap laces, 246 descriptions of lace of, 245 export trade, 245; value of annual export, 245 and n657 Haarlem thread used in, 245 import duties decreased, 244 and n653 numbers employed in, 242; (1851), 257 n688; in making Valenciennes, 245 sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243 lace schools of, 246 and n659 museum at, 246 Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n619
Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n459, 230
Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n235
Leber, M., cited, 487 n1336
Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240
Lefébure, A. blondes mates exported by, 226 point d'Argentan revived by, 208 quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200; cited, 228, 250, 269 n724 teaching improved by, 227
Leicester, Countess of, 330
Leipsic, fair, 196 and n563; fabrics (1685), 265
Lennox, Countess of, 314
------, Duke of, 419 and n1176
Léonard, 181
Lepage, M., 134
L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n399
L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290
_Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_, quoted, 97-98
Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206
Liedts, Baroness, 138
Liège lace account of industry, 136-137 point de Sedan, connected with, 254 price of (1701), 136 n386
Lierre Mechlin lace made at, 125 pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n317
Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n1125
Liguria, guipures of, 74
Lille lace compared with Spanish lace, 103; with Arras, 235, 240; with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237 cost of thread, 237 and n637 England, popularity in, 237 and n640; Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385 ground, 236-237 modern, 238 lace-industry antiquity of, 235 decline of, 238 dress of lace-makers, 235 and n630 French duty on lace (1761), 237 n635 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in (1723), 237 n640; (1788), 238, 257 n688 rivalry with Mirecourt, 252 value of (1788), 238 lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233 thread, fineness of, 119 n339; price of, 192 n553, 237 and n637; export of, to Scotland, 432
Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231, n1232; lace school, 442
Limousin, 250
Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n991
Linen embroidery of, 14 macramé, 79 and n248
Lisbon, lace factories at, 105
Lisle, Lady, 290 and n780
Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n1214; cited, 434
Locke, quoted, 430
Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520
Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64
London foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n366, 299 n817, 306 and n853; complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286; complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n935 lace-making in, 373
------, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n899
------ _Chronicle_, cited, 4
------ _Gazette_, quoted, 11 n39, 126
Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099
Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208
Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457; sale of stock, 196
------, Marquise de, 157 n457
_Lord Thomas_ (ballad), quoted, 15
L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125
Lorraine, lace industry (_see also_ Mirecourt), 251 and n672, n673; Mignonette made (1665), 35; numbers employed (1851), 257 n688
--------, Queen Louise de, 144
Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010
Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226
Loudun, 256
Louis XI., 139 n393
------ XIII. collar made at Venice for, 194 death of, 149 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147
------ XIV. census of (1684), 131 cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163 death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 fashions of reign of, 161 _et seq._ fête at Marly, 163 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 gold and silver lace of period of, 154 Paris lace commerce under, 211 sumptuary laws of, 152
------ XV. Court of, 172 and n505 fashions under black lace masks, 177 jabots, 172-173 mourning, 178 relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 ruffles, 171-173 point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566 trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176
------ XVI. fashions under, 179-181 phraseology of time of, 181 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 ruffles of, 172 n508
Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279
Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480
Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n317
--------, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206
Louvres, lace-making at, 209
-------- en-Parisis lace, 212 n589
Lovat, Lady, 426 n1202
Low Countries. _See names of countries_
Lowndes, cited, 497 n1360, 500
--------, Richard, 380
Lubec, 264
Lucca, gold lace, 92
Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n495
Luxada, cited, 75
Luxembourg, M. de, 167
----------, Maréchale de, 180
Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522
Luzarches lace, 212
Lydgate, quoted, 305
Lygum Kloster, 274 n736, 276 n738
Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398
Lyons lace, 256
Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408
Mabbie, 423
Macaulay, John, 439 n1227
McCulloch, cited, 384
----------, E., cited, 224 n610
McCullow, Miss Martha, 438
Mache, 22 n70
Machine net, introduction of, 408
Machinery--"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n935
Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443
McPherson, quoted, 112 n324
Macramé, 52, 79 and n247
Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812
Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n316
Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n263
Madrid, lace factory at, 102
Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280
Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n935
Mailly, Madame, 250
Maine, Madame de, 167
Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183; letter to, quoted, 99; lace factory of, 163; letter from, quoted, 172 and n506
_Malcontent_, quoted, 322
Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674
-------- lace. _See_ Mechlin lace
Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365
Maltese lace account of industry, 87 and n262, 88 Danish manufacture of, 275 English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n1165 Greek lace similar to, 86 Guipure, 40 Madeira manufacture of, 107 n316 Saxon manufacture of, 263
Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1096
Manchester thread, 119 n339
Manchettes. _See_ Ruffles
Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111
Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n265
Mantegna, Andrea, 467
Mantillas, 226
Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n1340
Mar, Countess of, 419 and n1176
Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61
Marche lace, 68, 138 n392
Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n458, 158 n460, 190
Mare, de la, cited, 148 n431, 152 n440
Margaret of Austria, 23 n74
Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62
Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142
Marguerite de France, 11 n36, 22, 27, 33 n102
Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497
------ Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491
Marie Antoinette autograph letter, referred to, 213 fans and laces distributed by, 180 fashion at court of, 179-180 gazette of (1782), 181 n537 point de Marli worn by, 225 sale of lace of, 183
------ Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124; lace trousseau of, 184, 196
------ Theresa, 259 and n699
Marnef, Hierosme de, 496
Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715
Marini, cited, 58
Marlborough, lace industry at, 395
Marli, 180 and n532
Marly, fête at, 163
Marriott, William, 380
Marryat, Captain, cited, 413; lace industry assisted by, 410
--------, Mrs., 500 n1365
--------, Miss Cecilia, 410
Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n585
------, Mlle. de, 211
Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348
---- I. accounts of, quoted, 297 gift of Spanish work to, 10 n32; Flanders work to, 294 interment of, 180 present to Lady Calthorpe, 297 ruffs of, 310 sumptuary laws, 293
---- of Burgundy, 135
----, Queen of Hungary, 113
---- de Médicis collarette of, 143-144 death of, 149 fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501 pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494 point de Gennes of, 72 sumptuary law published by, 144 and n419; evaded by, 149 and n434
Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425
---- II. fontange of, 342 knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n47 lace bills of, quoted, 168 n496 Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n364
---- Stuart dentelle of, 27 finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n860 guipures of, 37 and n120, 38 inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n102, 302 n828, 314, 325 n939, 372 n1098 needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421 ruff on effigy of, 316 n901 wardrobe of, 419 and n1177, 420 and n1182, 421 will of, 22
Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n70, 419
Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243
Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n1290, 495 n1357
Massinger, quoted, 265 n717, 296 and n804
Matignon, Mlle, de, 176
Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n22
--------, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n23
Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110
Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7
Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289
Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404
Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n905, 324 and n936
Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n412, 150, 151 and n439, 248
Mazzarine, 343 and n1017
Mechlin lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 "Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125 characteristic of, 31, 125 compared with Bayeux lace, 228; with Brussels, 118; with Cretan mesh work, 87; with Lille, 237; with point de Dieppe, 218; with St. Trond, 137; with Valenciennes, 233 decline of manufacture, 125 description of, 124-125 earliest references to, 125-126 English fashion for, 126 grounds in, 125 imperial layette (1856), in, 198 Lille, pattern adopted at, 238 points de France rivalled by, 177-178 Pope's apron bordered with, 70 Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131 uses of, 127-128 varieties included by term (1665), 35
---- net, 448
Medici collars, 56
Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions, 139
Melville, Sir Robert, 37
_Memoirs of Madame Palatine_, cited, 354
Men as lace workers Chili, 108 England, 392; south, 371 n1092; Northamptonshire, 385; Devonshire, 413, 414 France, 155 Madeira, 107 n316 Normandy (soldiers), 225 Saxony, 263 work of, compared with that of women, 263
Menin lace, 232 n624
Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n1083
Meran blonde, 256
Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196
----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502
Méric lace, 212
Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291, n1292, 487
Merli à piombini, 32 n98
Mermaid's lace, 49
Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86
Messina, lace work at, 81
Metal laces, Sicilian, 86
Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226
Meyer, Daniel, 496
Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254
Mezzo punto, 58
Michel, Francisque, cited, 104; quoted, 251 n669
----, Pfarrer, 266
Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484
Middleton, quoted, 312 n884
Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493
Mignonette, 34 and n107, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251
Milan Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78 Cantu the centre of lace of, 66 cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66 early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63 Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n236 Greek lace made at, 85 Old Milan point, 65 punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71 réseau of points of, 66 wire lace industry at, 72
Milward & Co., 380
Minas Geraes, lace of, 108
Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n1140, 401 and n1142
Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n688
Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n186; quoted, 267
Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n1209
Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68
Modène, Duchess of inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175 n520, 213 and n590 ruffles of, 233
Modes, 31
Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515
Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914
Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445
Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425
Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n40
Mons lace, 134-135
"Monsieur de Paris," 173
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73; quoted, 128, 356 and n1061
Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352
---- R., account entry by, 335 n982
Montargis, 256
Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28
Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583
Monteagle, Lord, 10 n32
Monteleon, Princess of, 98
Monthulay, family, 204
---- Sieur de, 205, 206
Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589
Montrose, pearlin of, 423
Moorish lace, 104
Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45
Morant, Captain, 440
More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368
Moreau, General, 13
Moretti, Nicolo, 484
Morgan, cited, 435
---- Sydney, Lady, 369
Morges lace, 212 n589
Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n606
Mortagne, 206
Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274
Moscow, lace school at, 284
Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n447
Mountague, Alice, 308
Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324
Murat, Caroline, 183
---- laces, 248, 249
Mzeresk lace, 283
Nanduti, 108
Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485
Nankin silk thread, 223 n608
Naples Greek lace made at, 85 lace from a palace at, 51 n175 lace of, 70-71; lace work of industrial school at, 83 n352
Napoleon bed made for, 196 favourite laces of, 128, 184 lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196; attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231.
Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283
National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n901
Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411
Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille) Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 Irish, 443 method of making, 32 Queen Elizabeth's, 305
Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264
Nemours, Duchesse de, 235
Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n331
Netherlands. _See_ Flanders, Belgium, Holland _and_ Brabant
Netting, 20, 21, 52; machine net, 408
Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726
Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779
New Ross convent, lace made at, 444
Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n1105, 378, 382, 384
Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379
Nicholas, Edward, 329 n957
-------- Susanne, 329 n957
Nichols, quoted, 294 n791, 303 n833
Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n466
Night caps, 323
Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n533
Normanby, Lady, 441
Normandy lace industry of. (_See also_ Calvados _and_ Dieppe) centres of, 216, 218 French Revolution, effect of, 223 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in different localities, 228 n614; (1851), 257 n688 value of, 228 n614 peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235
Norris, Sir Henry, 307
Northamptonshire lace, 384-393
Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55
Nottingham lace, 441; Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n1097; machine-made blondes, 225; imitation mantillas, 227
Novgorod, fabric at, 283
Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n1101
---- as lace-makers Flanders, 354 Italy, 47 and n154; Burano, 58; Florence, 67, 68; Cantu, 80 Portugal, 105, 107 Spain, 93
Nuremberg, 266, 267
Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182
O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442
O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443
O'Halloran, Mr., 436
Old lace indifference to, 368 and n1090 mania for, 369 restoration of, 411, 412
Oldfield, Mrs., 367
Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n1119
Opus tract, 302
Orfreys, 3 n13
Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489
-------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607
Orléanois lace industry, 256
Orsa lace, 281
Ostans, Giovanni, 484
------ Jean, 475
Oudenarde lace, 134
Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90
--- ---- of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69
Overbury murder, 317
Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326
------ Countess of, 9 n31
Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87
Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471
Paganino, Alessandro, 468
Paganinus, P. A., 472
Paget, Lady, 295
Pagodes, 168 n496
Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47; lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364
Palatine, Count, 326
-------- Madame, 168; Memoires of, quoted, 178
Pale of rose point, 51 and n174
Palermo grave clothes at, 366 and n1081 sculptured lace in villa near, 71
Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n195
Pandore, la grande, 170
Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495
-------- Isabella Catanea, 491, 496
Parchment lace, 37 and n122, 38 and n126, n129, n131, 297, 298
Paris churches, lace of, 120 n342, 161 n467, n469 English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379 exhibitions. _See under_ Exhibitions lace industry Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212 Bisette made (1665), 33 and n102 commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n587 Dumont's fabric, 211 factories round, 209 guipures made (1665), 36 and n114 mignonette made (1655), 35 numbers employed (1851), 257 n688 passementiers privileged in, 44 pattern books in, 12 and n43
Parisini, Agostino, 477
Partlet, 297 n810
Pasax, Marquis de, 190
Pasini, Tomaso, 483
Pasment in Scotland, 418
Pasolini, Countess, 81 n248
Passament (passement) definition of term, 26 and n79, 27 guipure a kind of, 36 references to, 27-29
"Passement Bond, The," 419
Passerotti, Aurelio, 472
Pattern-books Belgium Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463 Liège (1597), 136, 488 cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62 earliest dated, 18; earliest known, 376 n1108 England London (1591), 482; (1624), 497; (1632), 499; (1640), 500 Northampton, 384 France Lyon (n. d.), 92 n269, 465, 466; (1549) 92 n269, 144, 464; (1581), 475 Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493 Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43; in St. Geneviève's library, 12; (n. d.), 468; (1530) 144, 461; (1546), 464; (1564), 475; (1584), 476; (1587), 17, 18, 477; (1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481; (1601), 20 n62, 490; (1605), 493; (1613), 494; (1623), 498; (1722), 501 Germany Augsburg (1534), 267, 462 Cologne (1527), 268, 459 Frankfort (n.d.), 470; (1537), 470 Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470; (1605), 267, 491; (1607), 492; (1618), 496 Leipsic (1619), 496 Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488 Nuremberg (n.d.) 502; (1597), 489; (1601, 1604), 266, 490; (1666), 501; (1676), 501 Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501 Strasburg (1556), 469 gold and silver lace, of, 92 Italy Bologna (n.d.), 477; (1591), 483 Florence (1596), 488 Padua (1555), 469; (1604), 491 Pistoja (1642), 53 n181, 85, 92 n269, 500 Rome (1616), 495; (1625), 496 Siena (1603), 488 Turin (1589), 481 Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498; (1529), 461; (1530), 53 n179, 460; (1532), 462; (1537), 462; (1542), 463; (1543, 1544), 464; (1548), 53 n179, 468; (1551), 468; (1556), 469; (1557), 472; (1558), 471; (1559), 92 n269, 471, 472; (1560), 473; (1563), 474; (1564), 53 n179, 54 n182, 474, 475; (1567), 475; (1584), 476; (1591), 53 n179, 54 n182, 484; (1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n167, 54 n182, 484; (1594), 486; (1600), 68, 491, 496; (1620 and 1625), 54 n182, 497 Samplars a substitute for, 22-23 Switzerland Basle (1599), 271, 490 St. Gall (1593), 271, 487 Zurich, 271, 469 unknown points in, 54 n182 Vienna Museum, in, 263
Pauline, Princess, 184, 185
Pays de Caux, 216
Peacham, quoted, 325, 329
Pearl (picot), 31
------ ties, 31
Pearlin, 422, 423
Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n139, 44 and n142, n143
Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461
Pelican represented in lace, 21
Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62
Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500
Peniche bobbins used at, 106 n314 lace industry of, 107 and n315
Pennant, quoted, 382; cited, 431 n1208
Penne, Mrs., 294
Penshurst, old needlework at, 11
Penthièvre, Duc de Eu lace patronised by, 221 inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549 wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588
Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n8
_Pepys' Diary_, quoted, 153 n444, 337, 338
Persia, drawn-work of, 45
Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245
Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n248
Peter the Great, 283
Petersen, Anders, 280
Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n750
Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395; quoted, 216 n595, 218 n600, 220 n605, 225, 237 n640, 239, 244, 245 and n657, 268, 396, 432
"Pharsalia" quoted, 25
Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310
------ III. (Spain), 97
Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n754
Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n265
Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n13
Pianesani, Francesco, 462
Picard, M., 490 n1346
Picchetti, Marie, 79
Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n1355, 495 n1356
Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266
Pickpockets, 346
Picot (pearl), 31 and n92
Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421
Pillows Barcelona, 103 n305 description of, 391 foreign names for, 32 n99 Honiton, 415 n1156
Pillow guipure, 116
------ lace (bobbin lace) Austrian, 268 bobbin lace, so called 32 Ceylon, of, 88 foreign names for, 32 n98 France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159; trade crisis (1818), 187; fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584; gold lace of Paris, 212; first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494 Genoese, 74 Germany, introduction into, 260 Madeira, at, 107 Mechlin. _See that title_ method of making, 32-33 origin of, 29, 109 Peniche, at, 107 Russian, 283 and n751 Spanish, 103 n305 Valenciennes. _See that title_
------ net, 150
------ -beres, 16 and n56
Pin net machine, 448
Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n315
Pins for lace-making, 391 and n1126; State papers concerning, 294 n794
Pinwork lace, 294 n794
Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280
Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n248
Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170
Pizzo, 74
Plaited laces, 392
Platteuse, work of, 122
Plissés à la vieille, 127
Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460
Point (stitch), kinds of, 32
------ lace invention of, claimed by Italy, 45 misuse of term, 32 varieties of, 33-35
------ à l'aiguille, 121; gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point
------ d'Alençon Argentella, 193 and n555 Bayeux manufacture of, 228 Burano manufacture of, 62 compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n571; with Brussels, 194, 199; with Colbertine, 339; with point Gaze, 123; with Sedan lace, 254 dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198 earliest use of name, 195 and n557, n558, n560 grounds in, 193 imperial layette of, 198 industry Argentan, connection with, 204 centres of, 200 decline of, causes for, 192 early account of, 188-189 Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258 establishment of, 155-157 and n455 export trade, 192 method of manufacture, 192-194 Napoleon's patronage of, 196 number of lace-workers (1698), 191; (1786), 195; (1788), 192 n552; (1830), 196 origin of, 111 n323 quality of lace-work, 159 n464, 187, 194 revival of, 155 and n454, 196-197 value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196 invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n455 lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n244 "nun's work," 11 n39 patterns, 190-191; dates of, 198-200; Venice patterns copied, 191 season for, 178 shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567 specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201 time required in making, 198, 201 Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 "vilain," 191 n551
------ d'Angleterre Angleterre à bride, 408 Aurillac manufacture of, 247 Burano manufacture of, 62 butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408 France, fashionable in, 118 and n336 history of, 117 and n332, and n333 point de France rivalled by, 178
------ d'Argentan "Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n244 Armada pattern lace worked in, 397 Burano manufacture of, 62 characteristic of, 207 compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571; with point gaze, 123; with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571 description of, 203 ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208 industry Alençon, connection with, 204 embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580 Guyard's revival of, 204-205 number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205; (1786), 195 rival houses, 205 value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195; (1788), 207 reference to (1738), 195 and n559 season for, 178
------ d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249
------ de Bourgogne, 255
------ de Brabant, 138 n392
------ de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre
------ à carreaux, 32
------ à chaînette, 32
------ des champs (point de Paris), 35
------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228
------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._
------ de Dieppe. _See_ Dieppe
------ double (point de Paris), 35
------ duchesse, 123
------ d'Espagne. (_See also_ Gold lace) brides in, 58 definition of, 90 England, importation to, prohibited, 358; Honiton imitation of, 410 Irish imitation of, 443 n1233 point d'Aurillac compared with, 248 Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 references to, 98-99 n283, n285, 100, 103 n306, 354
------ d'esprit, 32 and n94, 229
------ de Flandre (_See also_ Flemish lace), 111, 144-145
------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon) description of, made at Alençon, 190 designs in, 158 n463 équipage, de bain of, 168 falbalas of, 167 and n492 industry centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584 Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n312 establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n459 Flanders, effect on, 111 method of working pattern in, 31 n91 ordinance of 1665, 157 and n459 rivals to, 177-178 popularity in France and England, 161-162 references to, 157 n459, 159 n464, 195 and n557, n558, n559, n560
------ de Galle, thread lace from, 88
------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123
------ de Gênes (Genoa) collerette, 141 France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451 history of, 72-73 and n230, 74 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42
------ de Hongrie, 265
------ of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145
------ de Marli. _See under_ Bayeux, lace industry.
------ de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443
------ de Moscow, 284
------ de neige (punto neve), 32 and n97, 51
------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212
------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350; appliqué, 123
------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226
------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84
------ à la Reine, 32
------ de Sedan. _See_ Sedan
------ tresse, 314
------ de Venise Alençon imitations of, 191 characteristics, 123 England, importation to, prohibited, 358 France, prohibited in, 154 and n451 Guipure, 40 Irish imitation of, 442 Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345 Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Moscow imitations of, 284 origin of, 49-50 point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 point de Raguse so called, 83 resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591; to Le Puy lace, 245; to point de Sedan, 254 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62; price of, 57; Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416; Irish reproduction of, 443 n1233, 444 Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93 theft of, 105 and n313
------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58
Pointeuse, work of, 122
Points, lace known as, 2
Poitou, 256
Poking-sticks, 312
Poland Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553 point de Sedan imported to, 254
Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405
Polignac, Madame de, 180
Polychrome lace, 62-63
Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n285
Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n550
Pomp office, 319
Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n540
_Pompe di Minerva, Le_, cited, 53 n181, 85, 92 n269
Ponchel, du. _See_ Duponchel
Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539
Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288
Ponto fiamengho, 111
Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n736
Pontus de Gardia, 280
Pope, quoted, 367
----, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n217
Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345
Porlin, quoted, 306 n854
Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440
Portland, Duchess of, 353
Portugal American imports of lace from, 106 bone pins used in, 295 guipures exported to, 36 lace-making in, 105-107 and nn Le Puy, lace imported from, 245 sumptuary laws in, 105
Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396
Pot lace, 130 and n369
Potter, Amy, 366 n1086
Poussin lace, 219
Poyntz, Adrian, 482
Prague, altar-cloth at, 9
Pridmore, Mr., 389
Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409
Prior, quoted, 342
Prison-made lace, 81 and n248
Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns Charles I., 330 Charles II., 335 George III., 359, 363 and n1068 William III., 341
Puisieux lace, 212 n589
Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n162, 73
Pultenarian collars, 253.
Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n171, 58, 62
Punto di cartella (cordella), 50
------ a gropo, 52
------ a maglia quadra (lacis), 52
------ de mosquito e de transillas, 99
------ di Napoli, 71
------ neve (point de neige), 32 and n97, 51
------ pugliese, 71 n222
------ di Rapallo, 75 n237
------ reale, 50
------ a relievo (rose point--_See under_ Point de Venise)
------ a reticella, 50 and n168
------ ricamento a maglia quadra, 21
------ tagliato (cut-work), 51
------ tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n172, 62
------ tirato (drawn work), 53 and n181
------ a Vermicelli, 75 n237
Purle lace, 310 and n875, n876, n877
Purling, 409
Purls, lace known as, 2
Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334; in America, 372 n1099
Puteau, Madame, 433 and n1214
Queensberry, Duchess of, 356
Quentell, P., 459
Quicherat, 139
Quilles, 127, 168 n496
Quintain, 19 and n60, 20
Quinty, M., 268
------, P., 459
Rabat, 141 and n403
Rabbits' hair, lace of 245.
Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n875
Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n1169
Raffy, Madame, 157 n458, 202
Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83
Rapallo, number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn
Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791
Rättwik lace, 281
Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248
Rawert, cited, 274 n732, 277 n741
Ray, cited, 67
Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; cited, 83
Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118
Récamier, Madame, 185
Regency point, 388
Regnard, quoted, 126 and n358, 167 n494
Regnier, quoted, 141
Reid, Miss, 440
Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n318
Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174
Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324
Renaissance, cut-work of, 17
René, Maître, 140 n395
Renfrew, lace industry at, 433
Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281 methods of making, 120-121 needle-made by hand, 406 n1151 nosacé, 78 specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74 uses of, 21 Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59
Restoring of old lace, 411, 412
Reticella (Italian) designs in, 68 Irish imitation of, 446
Retz, Cardinal de, 62
Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083
"Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104; cited, 83, 188
Rheims lace, 253
Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87
Riano, J. F., quoted, 93
Riazan lace, 283
Riband roses, 329 and n959
Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n248
Rich, B., quoted, 317 n908
Richard II., statutes of, 216 n597
-------- III., 48, 294 n794
Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149
----------, Maréchal de, 171
Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095
Riviera (_See also_ Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace manufacture of, 75, 79 and n245
_Rob Roy_ cited, 423
Roberts, Mrs., 445; account of lace school supplied by, 388-390
Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n379
Rodge, James, 401
Roger, Widow, 207
Rohan, Catherine de, 212
------ family, 182
Roland, cited, 36 n113
------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608; cited, 245 n656
Romagna, lace-making in, 68
Romana, Lucretia, 498
------, Lugretia, 497
Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n13, 4 n14
Rome, Greek lace made at, 85
----, King of, 196
Rondonneau, M., 152 n440
Rose point of Venice. _See under_ Point de Venise
Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273
Rosina Helena, Princess, 501
Ross, Mr., 482
Rossi, Giovanni, 483
Roumanian embroidery, 71 n222
Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270
Rowlands, quoted, 289 n773
Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352
Rue, Abbé, cited, 6
Ruel, Sieur, 155
Ruelle, Veuve, 468
Ruff cut-work, of, 312-313 England, introduction into, 310 falling band the successor to, 326 France, in, 139-141 and n399 James I., under, 315-318 Medicean, 322 Nuremberg, 267 sermons against the, 316 starching and fluting of, 311-312
Ruffles fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351 ladies wearers of, 365 and n1077 long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n1070 making of, 194 origin of weeping, 171 Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231
Run lace, 441
Russell, Lady Rachel, 348
Russia embroidery of, 71 n222 lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; from Saxony, 263 lace industry in, 283-284
Ruvigne, M., 331
Rymer, cited, 291 n785
Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461
Sabenqua, 97
Sabière, M. de, 172 n505
Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137
Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216
Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n508
St. Aligre, 247-248 and n663
Saint-Brice lace, 213 n589
St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n743
St. Cuthbert cope and maniple of, 7 grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366
St. Denis lace, 210
St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5
St. Eustadiole, 5
Saint François Régis, 243
St. Gervais, 207 n577
St. Giselle, 5 n18
St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n876
St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25
St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207
St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293
St. Martin's lace, 331 n965
St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n828
Saint Maximien, lace of, 212
St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n338
Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n589
St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166
St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n390, n391
Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413
Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483
Salviati, Joseph, 476
Samcloths, 23 and n73
Samplars, 9 n30, 23 and n73
Sandford, cited, 285 n754
Sandwich, Lady, 166
Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465
Santa Margherita number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn
Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45
Sarcelles lace, 213 n589
Sardinia deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n248 Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n657
Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n244
Savary, quoted, 36 and n111, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n687, 404; cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253 n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377
Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443
Savoie, Don Philippe, 143
Savona, 77 n240, 79 n246
Savonarola, quoted, 67
Saxony lace industry Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262 cheap lace of, 246 degeneration of, 263 Dresden lace, 262-263 modern, 263 numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 revenue from (sixteenth century), 261 treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n701
Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275
Scandinavians, lace work of, 4
Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61
Scarron, quoted, 177
--------, Veuve, 163
Schartzemberger, Johan, 462
Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275; number of fabrics (1840), 277
----------, North, lace of, 272, 273; districts of lace industry, 276 n738
"Schole House for the Needle, A," 499
Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n946
Schools, Lace Devonshire, 414, 415 and n1167, 416 Italian, 81 n248 Spratton, 388, 390
Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n380
Schwartzenburg, John, 267
Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n1090
Scotland lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n1199, 428-434 sumptuary laws in, 422 and n1195, 424
Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n1175, 427 and n1202
_Scottish Advertiser_ (1769), quoted, 35
Sculptured lace coloured marbles, in, 71 Harefield church, in, 321 n927
Seaming lace, 107, 325 n941, 332
Sedan lace, 183 n539, 253, 254
Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310
Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47
Séez black laces, 196 and n562
Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254
Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn
_Sempere Historia del Lujo_, quoted, 102
Senior, Hannah, 12
Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92; Pattern Book of, 476
Sevenges, Madame de, 290
Sévigné, Madame de bequest to, 183 n540 quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084
Seville lace, 101
Sewell, quoted, 294 n794
Seymour, Lady Jane, 294
Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n168, 63, 74 n235
Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345
Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n831; quoted, 309 n871
_Shakespeare Memorial, A_, quoted, 325 n941
Shandowes, Lady. _See_ Chandos
Shawe, quoted, 404
Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397
Sheridan, quoted, 346
Shirts adornments of, 15-16 Irish, 307, 435 Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10 Spanish omission of, 97 n279
Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329
Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11
Siam, King of (1614), 12
Sibmacher, 266, 490
Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81
Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579
Sidbury, lace school at, 414; lace lessons at, 416 n1170
Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n34
Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n1169
Sidney, Sir Philip, 304
Sidonian embroidery, 3
Siena lace, 68
Silk guipure. _See_ Guipure
---- lace Almagro, at, 102 n297 Chinese, 89 Cretan, 86 Ragusa, at (gimp), 84 Watling, 422
Silver lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace) England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349; George II., 335 n993; confiscation and burning of foreign, 359 Hamburg, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, exported to, 322 n928, 329 and n958 Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439 Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325 Lyons, at, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422 Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212 Zurich, 271
------ net-work, collar of, 82
------ purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330
------ thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328
Silvestre, cited, 463 n1274, 464
Simiane, Madame de English point belonging to, 118 and n335 inventory of, quoted, 153 n444, 218 and n599
Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n380, 428
--------, Miss Katherine, 419 n1176
_Sir Courtly Nice_, cited, 353 and n1052
Skelton, quoted, 251 n669
Skippin, quoted, 49 n165, cited, 72
Slammerkins, 356 and n1059
Slavonian peasants' work, 268
Sleeves, 341, 365
Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13
Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443
Smocks adornments of, 15 labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25
Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362; of point de Bruxelles, 117; in 1621, 331; in Charles II's time, 336; Isle of Man a centre for, 372; to Scotland, 427
---------- of thread, 407
Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87
Smythe, Thomas, 425
Society of Anti-Gallicans. _See_ Anti-Gallican
-------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702
Sol, José, 484
Soldiers lace made by, 225 rich laces of English, 345, 346
Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n1082
Sonnettes, 34 n104
Sophie de France, 168
------, Grand Duchess, 268
Soragana, Marchesa di, 486
Sorbière, Mons. de, 70
Souche, Lady, 309 n870
South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86
Southey, quoted, 303 n830
Spacing lace, 325 n941
Spain America, lace exported to, 102 bone pins used in, 295 conventual lace work of, 93 earnings of lace-makers in, 102 embroidery of, 8 n28, 10 and n32 French fashions influenced by, 147 gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102; imported to, 212 grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n1085 guipures imported to, 36 holidays in, 102 n302 lace imported to, from-- Albissola, 77 Chantilly, 214 Dieppe, 219 Ghent, 133 Isle de France, 209 Le Puy, 245 and n657 Lorraine, 251 Marseilles, 101 Paris, 36, 212 Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100 mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n305; mantillas exported to, 226 manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 Moresse, dentelles de, 104 numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n294, n297, 104 point of. _See_ Point d'Espagne shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n279 sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101 two kinds of lace made in, 103 n305
Spangles, 335; of bobbins, 391 n1127
Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214
-------- Indies, Brabant lace exported to, 129 guipures exported to, 36 Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n657
Spelle werk, 32 n98
Spenser, quoted, 303 n830
Spider net, 448
------ -work, 20
Spiral design, 7
Spratton, lace school at, 388-390
Staël, Madame de, 180
Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150
Stair, Lord, 99 n285
Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n906, 435
Starching, introduction of, into England, 311; tools used for fluting and, 311-312
Steadman, Anne, 440
Steenbeck, 274
Steinkirk lace, 167 and n491, 344 and n1021, 345, 364
Stephens, quoted, 302 n828
Stepney, Lady, 369
Sterne, cited, 172
Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n1308, 487
Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345
Stockholm museums, lace in, 282
Stone, quoted, 140
Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n1105, 379 and n1117
Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n594
Stowe, cited, 294 n793; quoted, 310, 311 and n879, 312
Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367
Strasburg, Archbishops of. _See_ Rohan family.
Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n941
Strauben, George, 271, 487
Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n1184
Striqueuse, work of, 122
Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n1239
Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n813
Stuart, Arabella, 325
------, Mary, _See_ Mary Stuart
Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n892
Stuora, 53 and n179
Sturbridge fair, 43 and n140
Stures family, 282
Suffolk, Duchess, 292
--------, Earl of, 319 and n917, n918
--------, lace industry of, 394
Sully, 142, 210
Sumptuary laws Denmark, 274 and n733, n735 England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n776, 291, 293, 306 and n855, 319 France, 64, 141 and n404, n405, 144, 147 and n429, 148 and n431, 152, 154 and n450, 158 and n460, 212, 243 Genoa, 73 Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220 Portugal, 105 "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424 Spain, 90, 97, 101 Turkey, 87 Venice, 48, 57, 79 n245 Zurich, 270
Sweden cut-work in, 25, 280 grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366 lace industry, bobbin lace of, 280 established at Wadstena, 278 growth of, 279 peasant lace work for home use, 281-282 Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282 sheets, laced, 280
Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n1037, 352, 436
Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n822
---------- (1775), quoted, 101
---------- (1786), quoted, 176
Switzerland, lace industry in, French refugees, settlement of, 269 mignonette made (1665), 35 Neufchâtel. _See that title_ origin of, 269 pattern books, 271 statistics of, 270 and n727 Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271
Sylvius, Balthazar, 469
Syon Monastery cope, 7
Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369
Tabin, B., 476
Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n168, 51 n171, 52 n176, n178, 53 n181, 71 n222, 82 n252, 460
Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101
Talbot, Gilbert, 304
Tallies, 78 and n154
Talma lace, 186
Talon, 158 n460
Tambour work, Hamilton, 434 n1216 Irish, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231 oriental, 440, 441
Tape lace, 116, 414 n1165
Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86
Tarnete (trina), 46
_Tatler_, quoted, 296 n806
Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n265
Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n224
Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n933, 329; cited 500
Temple, Earl, 380
Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232; cited, 76 n238
Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113
Thelusson, Symphorien, 269
Theodoret, J., 469
Thierzac, lacis at, 248
Thomond, Earl of, 12
Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272
Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481
Thread, importance of using fine (_see also under_ Lille), 393 and n1104, 446
------ lace Cyprian, 82 hand spinners of, protest by, 335 importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n1047
Thynne, quoted, 298 n816
Tickell, quoted, 169 n497
Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n1228
Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408
Toilé, 30 and n89
Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108
Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103
Tombs. _See_ Grave-clothes
Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742
Toquet, 340
Torchon Milanese, 66 prison-made at Perugia, 81 n248 Saxony fabric, 263 Sicilian, 81 Spanish, 102 n297
Torello, 469
Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n246
Tory, G., 476
Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446
Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n669
Tournantes, 168 n496
Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n338
Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5
Towcester, lace industry at, 382
Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88
Treadwin, Mrs. cited, 401 n1140, 407, 413 Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416
Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417
Trezola, 474 n1311
Trina, 46 and n150, n152
Trolle Bonde, Count, 282
------ kant, 115-116
Trollopies, 356 and n1059
Trolly ground, 386
------ lace, 371 n1095, 412-414
Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89
Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n134
Troyaux, Mons., 124
Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n1154
Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250
Tulle embroidered, 229 German manufacture of, 250 lace discarded in favour of, 187 Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180 origin of name, 250 predecessor of, 225
Turkey oyah made in, 45, 87 silk gimp specimens from, 85 sumptuary laws in, 87 tambour work in, 441
Turn, 401 n1140
Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n906, 435
Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125; number of fabrics (1803), 131
Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n445
Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68
Tussaud, Madame, 143 n412
Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n761
Tynan lace industry, 442, 443
Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268
Udine, lace school at, 81 n248
Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338
Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426
United States. _See_ America
Urbino, lace making in, 68
Urbino, Duchess, 471
Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172
Ustariz, quoted, 102
Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447
Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270
Valcameos, 246
Valencia gold and silver lace made at, 101 saints' images decked in lace at, 100
Valenciennes Lace compared with Binche, 135; with Dutch, 260; with Eu lace, 221; with Isle of Man lace, 372 n1096; with Lille, 237; with Mechlin, 233; with point de Dieppe, 220; with Welsh lace, 371 n1094 cost of (1788), 234 and n627 fault of, 235 n629 Honiton reproduction of, 416 industry centres of, 132; after French Revolution, 231 n624; expense and labour in making, 233; cost of thread, 234 n627 decline of, 231 establishment of, date, 230 French Revolution, effect of, 183 n539 method of working pattern in, 31 numbers employed (18th century), 230; (1790 and 1851), 231; at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131 period of highest merit, 234-235 time required in producing, 233-234 value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376 wages and conditions of work, 233 point a misnomer for, 32 réseau of, 66 varieties of Alost (ground stitch), 133 Bailleul, 241 Bohemia, 268 Bruges, 132-133 Courtrai, width of, 131 n373; compared with Ypres, 132; ground stitch, 133 n377; character of, 232 n624 Dijon, 255 fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387 Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n377 Le Puy, 230 and n619, 245 vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n624 Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n624; value of, 131 n373; ground and pattern, 131-133
Valentine de Milan, 139 n393
Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n514
Valguarnera, Prince, 71
Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100
Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139
_Valuables of Glenurquhy_, quoted, 325 and n938
Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476
Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n320
Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n322
Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111
Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n1241
Vatican, laces of, 70
Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472
Vecellio cited, 71 and n221 Corona of, 8 n28, 29, 50 n167, 111, 484, 486
Veils, bridal, 78; English, fourteenth century, 285
Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; 18th century, 244; thread used, 245
Venezuela, lace of, 108
Venice Billament lace of, 48 and n159 blonde, formerly made in, 59 n195 Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n192 Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54 collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194 emigration of workers restricted, 159 n465 English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n863, n864; prohibited, 358 fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n501 frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288 gold work of, 288, 307 n863, n864 Greek lace made at, 85 Medici collars made at, 56 numbers employed on lace-making in, 63 Point of. _See_ Point de Venise polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63 sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n245 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57 varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58
Verbruggen, 129 n367
Verceilles, 249
Verghetti, 56
Vermicelli lace, 74
Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n916
Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26
Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248
Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289
Viarmes lace, 212
Victoria, Queen Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410 Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n1097 State liveries of, 174 n516 trousseau of, 392, 409
Victoria and Albert Museum Alençon in, 193 n555 Bock exhibits in, 23 n74 Cyprian lace in, 82 Danish embroideries in, 275 Genoese lappet in, 78 and n244 German specimens in, 264; Nuremberg ruffs, 267 Hungarian peasant lace in, 268 Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n1233 lacis borders in, 20-21 Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n747 pale of rose point in, 51 Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108 pattern-books in, 467 n1287, 468, 470, 477, 488 n1337, 490 n1344, 497 n1361, 501 n1370, 502 n1371 Slavonian peasants' work in, 268 Suffolk laces in, 394 Syon Monastery cope in, 7 tape lace in, 116
Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616
Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328
--------, Sir Edward, 319 n918
--------, Sir George, 318
Villiers-le-Bel, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589
Vimoutier, 204
Vinciolo, Frederick Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494
Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401
Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93
Volant, origin of name, 168 n496
Vologda lace, 283
Voltaire, quoted, 166 n490
Vorsterman, William, 180, 463
Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n268
Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406
Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475
Waborne lace, 300 and n819
Wace, Robert, cited, 202
Wadstena lace industry, 278-280
Wages of lace-workers. _See_ Earnings
Wakefield, quoted, 440 n1228
Waldgrave, Sir Edward, 293
Wales, lace-making in, 371 and n1094
------, Princess of, 409
Walker, Charles, 441 and n1230, 442
Walpole, cited, 297 n808, 356 and n1060
Walsingham, 307 n860, 420 n1182
----------, Lady Audrye, 64, 320 n925
Wareham, lace found in Scandinavian barrow near, 4
Warwick, Lord, 333
Warton, J., quoted, 121 and n349
Washing of ecclesiastical lace, 373 n1101
Waterloo, hospital for English wounded at, 124
Waterman, Mrs. Elizabeth, 395
Watling silk lace, 422
Watt, cited, 482 n1329
Weaving Book, 280
Webb, Mr., 51
Weber, cited, 280 n758
Weigel, Christoph, 501
------, Joh. Christoph, 502
Weisse, C., cited, 259 n693, 264 n707
West Indies, Spanish lace sold in, 102 n294
Westcote, quoted, 400; cited, 401
Westminster procession of lace-makers to, 360 St. Margaret's, lace washing from, 373 n1101
------------, Dean of, forbids yellow starch, 317
------------ Abbey epitaph in cloisters of, 13 lace on images in, 316 n901, 345
Westphalia Jutland industry improved by workers from, 274 thread, fineness of, 119 n339
Whisks, 334
Whitcomb, John, widow of, 17
White, Edward, 482
------ Knight's sale, 497
Wieselgren, H., cited, 493 n1354
Wight, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097
Wigs, cost of, 349 falling bands put out of fashion by, 336
Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, 99 n283
Willemin, cited, 475 n1313
William III., period of, 341-346
-------- of Malmesbury, quoted, 6
-------- of Normandy, 6-7
-------- of Poictiers, quoted, 7
-------- the Silent, 260
Willingham, Geo., letter to, cited, 98 n282
Wilton, Lady, cited, 497
Wiltshire and Dorsetshire lace, 395-398
Winchester, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320
----------, Lady Marquis of, 309 n870
Wire, gold and silver lace made from, 72
---- ground, 386
Wiseman, Cardinal, lace alb used by, 92-93
Wolfe, I., 482
Wolsey, Cardinal, lace of, 292
Women, lace work of, compared with that of men, 263
Woodbury Maltese lace imitation made at, 414 n1165 men lace-makers at, 413
Woollen manufacture in England lace manufacture next to, in 1698, 402 loss to, from edict against Flanders lace 341, 342, 349
Worcester, Countess of, 313
Wotton, Sir Henry, 136 n385
Wraxall, cited, 105, 142; quoted, 263
Wulff, Jens, 276 and n739
Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 294
Wyriot, Madame, 205
Yarranton, Andrew, quoted, 114-115 and n327; cited 259 n696
Yemenis, M., cited, 488 n1339
Yokohama, lace school at, 417
Yorck lace, 138 n392
York, Cardinal, 421
Youghal Convent, lace-making at, 443, 444
Young, A., cited, 192 n552, 207, 223, 224, 244; quoted, 234 n627, 239
Ypres Valenciennes. _See under_ Valenciennes
Yriarte, Charles, cited, 159 n465
Zante, Greek lace made at, 85
Zedler, cited, 57
Zoppino, Nicolo, 461, 462
Zouch, Lord, cited, 136 n385
Zurich, sumptuary laws of, 270 and n728
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND 28, GREAT WINDMILL STREET. W.
Notes
[1] Wilkinson's _Ancient Egyptians_, vol. iii., p. 134. (See Illustration.)
[2] Herodotus, ii. 182; iii. 47.
[3] Ezekiel, who takes up the cry of lamentation for "Tyrus, situate at the entry of the sea," a merchant of the people for many isles, exclaims, "The merchants of Sheba, Asshur, and Chilmad were thy merchants. These were thy merchants in all sorts of things, in blue cloths and broidered works, and in chests of rich apparel." Another part of the same chapter mentions galley sails of fine linen "with broidered work from Egypt."--Ezekiel xxvii.
[4] Exodus xxvi.; xxvii.; xxxiv. 2; Isaiah iii. 18; 1 Kings vii. 17.
[5] Exodus xxxviii. 23.
[6] Again, in the song of Deborah, the mother of Sisera says, "Have they not divided the prey?... to Sisera a prey of divers colours of needlework, of divers colours of needlework on both sides."--Judges v. 30.
[7] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making. A. S. Cole (London, 1881).
[8] At Athens the maidens who took part in the procession of the Panathenaea embroidered the veil or _peplos_ upon which the deeds of the goddess were embroidered. The sacred _peplos_ borne on the mast of a ship rolled on wheels in the Panathenaic festival "was destined for the sacred wooden idol, Athene Polias, which stood on the Erechtheus. This _peplos_ was a woven mantle renewed every five years. On the ground, which is described as dark violet, and also as saffron-coloured, was inwoven the battle of the gods and the giants." (See page 47, _British Museum Catalogue to the Sculptures of the Parthenon_.)
[9] Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, viii. 74. "Colores diversos picturae intexere Babylon maxime celebravit et nomen imposuit."
[10] Maspero, _The Dawn of Civilisation in Egypt and Chaldaea_ (ed. Prof. Sayce).
[11] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_ (trans. A. S. Cole).
[12] Lucan, _Pharsalia_, Book X.
[13] The Romans denominated such embroideries _phrygionae_, and the embroiderer _phrygio_. Golden embroideries were specified as _auriphrygium_. This word is the root of the French _orfroi_ (orfreys).
[14] Mrs. Palliser quotes an extract from the author of _Letters from Italy_, who, speaking of the cabinet at Portici, mentions an elegant marble statue of Diana "dressed after the purple gowns worn by the Roman ladies; the garment is edged with a lace exactly resembling point; it is an inch and a half broad, and has been painted purple." By an Englishwoman (Mrs. Millar) in the years 1770 and 1771 (London, 1777).
[15] Strutt.
[16] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.
[17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.
[18] St. Giselle, Berthe's sister, founded many convents in Aquitaine and Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_).
[19] _Chronique Rimée_, by Philippe Mouskés.
[20] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.
[21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.
[22] It has been suggested that the embroidery was done by William's granddaughter, the Empress Matilda, widow in 1125 of Henry V., Emperor of Germany, and wife, by her second marriage, of Geoffrey, Count of Anjou (Lefébure).
[23] Mr. Fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry the handiwork of Queen Matilda cannot be traced further back than 1803, when the tapestry was sent to Paris for exhibition.
[24] Matt. Par., _Hist. Angl._, p. 473, Edit. Paris, 1644.
[25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.
[26] At Verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework the life of St. John, after the designs of Pollajuolo.
[27] "Gaston, Duke of Orleans, established hot-houses and botanical gardens, which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure).
[28] We read, for instance, that Gabrielle de Bourbon, wife of Louis de la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à telles dames, et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--_Panegyric de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet._
Again Vecellio dedicates his "Corona" to Signora Nanni, not only on account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle, but for "il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua, ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa città."
"It is usual here," writes a lady from Madrid in 1679, "for good families to put their daughters to ladies, by whom they are employed to embroider in gold and silver, or various colours, or in silk, about the shift, neck, and hands."
"I jor fist es chambre son pere, Une estole et i amict pere, De soie et d'or molt soutilment, Si i fait ententivement Mainte croisette et mainte estoile, Et dist ceste chancon à toile." --_Roman de la Violette._
"One day, seated in her father's room, she was skilfully working a stole and amict in silk and gold, and she was making in it, with great care, many a little cross and many a little star, singing all the while this _chanson à toile_."
[30] In one of Edward I. we find a charge of eight shillings for silk bought for the embroidery work of Margaret, the King's daughter, and another for four ounces of silk, two hundred ounces of gold thread, a spindle, etc.--_Liber de Garderoba, 23 Edw. I._, Public Record Office.
In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the purchase of gold thread, silk, etc., for his second daughter Joanna.--_Liber Garderobae, 12-16 Edw. III._, Public Record Office.
Elizabeth of York worked much at her needle. In the account of her household, preserved in the Public Record Office, every page of which is signed by Queen Elizabeth herself, we find--
"To Evan Petreson joiner, for the stuff and making of 4 working stools for the Queen; price of the stool 16 pence--5s. 4d.
"To Thomas Fissch, for an elne of linen cloth for a samplar for the queen, 8d."
In the Inventory 4 Edward VI., 1552 (Harl. MSS. No. 1419), are entries of--
"Item, XII. samplars" (p. 419).
"Item, one samplar of Normandie canvas, wrought with green and black silk" (p. 524).
"A book of parchment containing diverses patternes" (p. 474), probably purchases for his sisters.
[31] See, for instance, the interesting account of the Countess of Oxford, given by Miss Strickland in her _Life of Queen Elizabeth of York_.
[32] These are alluded to in the dialogue between Industria and Ignavia, as given in Sibmacher's "Modelbuch," 1601 (French translation): "La vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille chez les anciens Espagnols; comme Isabelle, femme de Ferdinand, a hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille."
The "Spanish stitch," so often mentioned, was brought in by Katharine, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, in 1501. We have constantly in her wardrobe accounts sheets and pillow-beres, "wrought with Spanish work of black silk at the edge."
In the Inventory of Lord Monteagle, 1523 (Public Record Office,) are "eight partlets, three garnished with gold, the rest with Spanish work."
In 1556, among the New Year's gifts presented to Queen Mary Tudor, most of the smocks are "wrought with black silk, Spanish fashion."
In the Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, 3 & 4, Public Record Office, we have "sixteen yards of Spanish work for ruffs."
"Twelve tooth cloths, with the Spanish stitch, edged with gold and silver bone lace."--_Ibid._ Eliz. 5 & 6.
The Spanish stitch appears in France with Henry II., 1557. "Pour la façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de passement blanc," etc.--_Comptes de l'Argentier du Roy._ Archives Nat. K. K. 106.
[33] Taylor, the Water Poet, _Katharine of Aragon_.
[34] The industry of Henry's last queen was as great as that of his first. Specimens still exist at Sizergh Castle, Westmoreland, of Katharine Parr's needlework--a counterpane and a toilet cover. An astrologer, who cast her nativity, foretold she would be a queen; so when a child, on her mother requiring her to work, she would exclaim, "My hands are ordained to touch crowns and sceptres, not needles and spindles."
[35] _Dames Illustres._
[36] The "Reine des Marguerites," the learned sister of Francis I., was not less accomplished with her needle, and entries for working materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death, 1549.
"Trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par Jehan Danes, pour servir aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--_Livre de dépenses de Marguerite d'Angoulême_, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862.
"Elle addonoit son courage A faire maint bel ouvrage Dessus la toile, et encor A joindre la soye et l'or. Vous d'un pareil exercise Mariez par artifice Dessus la toile en maint trait L'or et la soie en pourtrait."
--_Ode à la Royne de Navarre_, liv. ii., od. vii.
[38] 1380. "Oeuvre de nonnain."--_Inventaire de Charles V._
[39] "My grandmother, who had other lace, called this" (some needlepoint) "nun's work."--_Extract from a letter from the Isle of Man_, 1862.
"A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which she called 'nun's work.'"--_Extract from a letter from Scotland_, 1863.
1698, May. In the _London Gazette_, in the advertisement of a sale by auction, among other "rich goods," we find "nun's work," but the term here probably applies to netting, for in the _Protestant Post Boy_ of March 15th, 1692, is advertised as lost "A nun's work purse wrought with gold thread."
1763. In the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ appears, "Imported from the Grand Canaries, into Scotland, nun's work."
[40] As, for instance, "the imbrothering" of the monks of the monastery of Wolstrope, in Lincolnshire.
[41] _Livre de Lingerie._ Dom. de Sera, 1581. "Donne, donzelle, con gli huomini."--Taglienti, 1530. Patterns which "les Seigneurs, Dames, et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587.
[42] Jehan Mayol, carme de Lyon; Fra Hieronimo, dell' Ordine dei Servi; Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others.
[43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis."
[44] He died in 1595. _Lives of the Earl and Countess of Arundel_, from the original MS. by the Duke of Norfolk. London, 1857.
[45] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Domestic. Charles I. Vol. clxix. 12.
[46] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Colonial. No. 789.
[47] See his epigram, "The Royal Knotter," about the queen,
"Who, when she rides in coach abroad Is always knotting threads."
[48] Translated from the _Libellus de Admirandis beati Cuthberti Miraculis_ of Reginald, monk of Durham, by Rev. J. Rain. Durham, 1855.
[49] _Chronicle of John Hardyng_, circ. 1470.
[50] Temp. Rich. II. In their garments "so much pouncing of chesell to make holes, so much dragging (zigzagging) of sheers," etc.--_Good Parson_, Chaucer.
[51] Percy, _Reliques of Ancient Poetry_, vol. iii.
[52] _Anatomie of Abuses_, by Philip Stubbes, 1583.
[53] _The Shyp of Folys of the Worlde_, translated out of Latin by Alex. Barclay, 1508.
[54] The inventories of all nations abound in mention of these costly articles. The "smocks" of Katharine of Aragon "for to lay in," were wrought about the collar with gold and silk. Lord Monteagle, 1523, had "two fine smocks of cambric wrought with gold." (Inv. P. R. O.) Among the New Year's Gifts offered to Queen Mary Tudor by the Duchess of Somerset (1556), we find a smock wrought over with silk, and collar and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and silver. Again, in the household expenses of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find a charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François, 10,394.) About the same date (G. W. A. Eliz. 1 & 2, 1558-59) appear charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. Six white smockes edged with white needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting and edging 4 smockes of drawn work with ruffs, wristbands, and collars, three of them with black work, and three of them with red, etc. At the funeral of Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was described as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610.
[55] See FRANCE.
[56] The pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury, a custom not yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux armes," and trimmed with a rich point, form an important feature in a modern trousseau. In the inventory of Margaret of Austria, the gentle governess of the Low Countries, are noted--
"Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de verde.
"Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de Cabrera."--_Corr. de l'Empereur Maximilien I. et de Marguerite d'Autriche_, par M. Leglay. Paris, 1839.
Edward VI. has (Harl. MSS. 1419) "18 pillow-beres of hollande with brode seams of silk of sundry coloured needlework." And again, "One pillow-bere of fine hollande wrought with a brode seam of Venice gold and silver, and silk nedlework."
And Lady Zouche presents Queen Elizabeth, as a New Year's gift, with "One pair of pillow-beares of Holland work, wrought with black silk drawne work."--Nichol's _Royal Progresses_.
[57] _Goderonné_--_goudronné_, incorrectly derived from pitch (_goudron_), has no relation to stiffness or starch, but is used to designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth century--the "gadrooned" edge of silversmiths.
1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle, les manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme.
[58] They are introduced into the Title page of this work.
[59] See APPENDIX.
[60] "Quintain, quintin, French lawne." Randle Cotgrave. _Dictionarie of the French and English tongues._ 1611.
"26 virges de Kanting pro sudariis pro ille 47/8."--_G. W. A. Charles II._, 1683-4.
[61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les autres.--_Dict. d'Ant. Furetière_, 1684.
[62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX.
[63] So, in the Epistle to the Reader, in a Pattern-book for Cut-works (London, J. Wolfe & Edward White, 1591), the author writes of his designs:--
"All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyreth to bring the work into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not only for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching."--(See APPENDIX, No. 72).
[64] _Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak_, etc. Paris, 1605. See APPENDIX.
[65] The inventories of Charles de Bourbon, ob. 1613, with that of his wife, the Countess of Soissons, made after her death, 1644 (Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this _réseuil_ was in vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century.
"Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois).
"Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux.
"Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin, trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--_Inv. de Charles de Bourbon._
"Item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes trois quarts de haute.
"Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin) appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute.
"Item trois pantes, fonds de dossier, les deux fourreaux de piliers, la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé.
"Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la somme de soixante livres tournois."--_Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._
[66] Dated 20 Feb., 1587. Now in the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[67] 1781. "Dix-huit Pales de differentes grandeurs, tous de toile garnis tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de S. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L.L. 654.
[68] _Point and Pillow Lace_, by A. M. S. (London, 1899).
[69] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[70] "Mache, the Masches (meshes) or holes of a net between the thread and thread" (Cotgrave).
[71] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre_, 1577. Arch. Nat. K.K. 162.
[72] _Inventory of Catherine de Médicis_, Bonaffé.
[73] Randle Holme, in _The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her Ways of Sewing_, has "A Samcloth, vulgarly, a Samplar."
[74] In the Bock collection, part of which has since been bought for the Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks. Such were the richly-wrought "serviettes sur filez d'or" of Margaret of Austria.
"Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez et bordée d'or et de gris.
"Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted.
[75] "Le Gan," de Jean Godard, Parisien, 1588.
[76] Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum (p. 5).
[77] Lace. French, _dentelle_; German, _Spitzen_; Italian, _merletto_, _trina_; Genoa, _pizzo_; Spanish, _encaje_; Dutch, _kanten_.
[78] Statute 3 Edw. IV. c. iii.
[79] "Passement, a lace or lacing."--_Cotgrave_.
[80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or Nicot, 1606. Cotgrave has, "Dentelle, small edging (and indented), bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find, "Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées."
[81] _Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi_, 1557.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. "Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement blanc," "grise," also occur.
[82] _Argenterie de la Reine_, 1556.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 118.
[83] _Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62.
[84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz contenant 80 aunes."--Rec. Off., Edin. This custom of trimming the seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common throughout Europe. In the Chartley Inv. of Mary Stuart, 1586, one of the Vasquines (jackets) is described, "Autre de satin noir descouppée a descouppemie dentelés."
[85] 1577. "Pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne.
"Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à la dicte dame, quatre livres."--_Cptes. de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 162.
[86] See APPENDIX.
[87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or, argent," etc.--_Inv. de Madame, soeur du Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234.
So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at Paris (Arch de l'Emp. L. L. 858), the word is used. We find, "Quatre tours de chaire de thoille baptiste, ung beau surplis pour le predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement." Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle."
[88] _Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
[89] The French terms are more comprehensive:--
Champ, fond travaillé à jour.
Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour.
Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé by having little square spaces between the thread (_grillé_, grating), the work not being so compact.
"On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente entre deux rangs de grillage."--_Roland de la Platière_ (the Girondin). Art. Dentelle, _Encyclopédie Méthodique_. Paris, 1780.
[90] _Storehouse of Armory and Blason._ 1688.
[91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point de France, de Venise, de Malines."--_Dict de l'Académie._
[92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à picot."--_Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,064.
[93] "Une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de Paris."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de François de Simiane._ 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.
[94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ Lyon. 1759.
[95] _Dict. d'Ant. Furetière._ Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727.
[96] 1656.
[97] 1651. "Huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige."--_Inv. des emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621.
"Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--_Ibid._
[98] French, _dentelle à fuseaux_; Italian, _merli a piombini_; Dutch, _gespeldewerkte kant_; Old Flemish, _spelle werk_.
[99] French, _carreau_, _cousin_, _oreiller_; Italian, _tombolo_; Venice, _ballon_; Spanish, _mundillo_.
[100] See Chapter XXIV.
[101] The number of bobbins is generally equal to 50 to each square inch. If the lace be one inch wide, it will have 625 meshes in each square inch, or 22,500 in a yard. The work, therefore, goes on very slowly, though generally performed with the greatest dexterity.
[102] At Gisors, Saint-Denis, Montmorency, and Villiers-le-Bel.--Savary, _Grand Dict. du Commerce_, 1720.
Cotgrave gives, "Bisette, a plate (of gold, silver, or copper) wherewith some kinds of stuffes are stripped." Oudin, "Feuille ou paillette d'or ou d'argent." In these significations it frequently occurs. We find with numerous others:
"1545. 55 sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre à des colletz."
"Six aulnes bizette de soie noire pour mettre sur une robbe, lv. s.," in the Accounts of Madame Marguerite de France. (Bib. Nat.)
"1557. Bizette de soye incarnatte et jaulne pour chamarrer ung pourpoint de satin rouge" of Henry II.--_Cptes. de l'Argentier du Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 106.
"1579. Petite bizette d'or fin dentellez des deux costez pour servir à desmanches de satin cramoisy" of Catherine de Médicis.--_Trésorerie de la royne mère du roy._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 115.
In the Chartley Inv. 1586, of Mary Stuart, is mentioned, "Un plotton de bisette noire."
[103] _Dict. de l'Académie._
[104] Campane, from sonnette, clochette, même grêlot. "Les sonnettes dont on charge les habits pour ornement. Les festons qu'on met aux étoffes et aux dentelles."--_Oudin._
[105] Public Record Office.
[106] In the last century it was much the fashion to trim the scalloped edges of a broader lace with a narrower, which was called to "campaner."
1720. "Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau, garni autour d'une campane à dents."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._
1741. "Une paire de manches à trois rangs de Malines à raizeau campanée."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle Marie Anne de Bourbon de Clermont._ Arch. Nat. X. 11,071. (Daughter of Mademoiselle de Nantes and Louis Duke de Bourbon.)
"Une coëffure de Malines à raizeau à deux pièces campanée."--_Ibid._
In the lace bills of Madame du Barry, preserved in the Bib. Nat., are various entries of Angleterre et point à l'aiguille, "campanée des deux côtés" for ruffles, camisoles, etc.
[107] 1759. "Huit palatines tant points que mignonettes."--_Inv. de decès de Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conty, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de Orléans._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,077.
"Trente-vingt paires de manchettes, quatre coëffures, le tout tant de differents points qu'Angleterre, mignonettes que tulles."--_Ibid._
[108] 1758. "Une paire de manchettes à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur entoilage."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle Louise Anne de Bourbon Condé de Charollais_ (sister of Mademoiselle de Clermont). Arch. Nat. X. 10,076.
1761. "Fichus garnis à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur entoilage."--_Inv. de Charlotte Aglaë d'Orléans, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de Modène_ (daughter of the Regent).
1789. Ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the _Inv. de decès de Monseigneur le Duc de Duras_. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440.
[109] Mostly at Bayeux.
[110] "On employe aussi pour les coëffures de la mignonette, et on a tellement perfectionné cette dentelle, que estant peu de chose dans son commencement est devenue de consequence et même très chère, j'entends, la plus fine qu'on fait sur de beaux patrons."--_Le Mercure Galant_, 1699.
[111] "Guiper. Tordre les fils pendans d'une frange par le moyen de l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir, fer crochu d'un côté, et chargé de l'autre d'un petit morceau de plomb pour lui donner du poids."--Savary.
[112] "Guipure. A grosse black thread covered or whipped about with silk."--Cotgrave.
"Guipure. Manière de dentelle de soie où il y a des figures de rose ou d'autres fleurs, et qui sert à parer les jupes des dames.... Sa jupe est pleine de guipure."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ 1759.
[113] Roland. We cannot help thinking this a mistake. In the statutes of the Passementiers, we find mention of buttons "à têtes de mort," or would it rather be "tête de moire," from the black moire hoods (têtes) worn by the Italian women, which were often edged with a narrow guipure?
[114] Les lieux en France où il se fait le plus de guipures, sont Saint-Denis-en-France, Villiers-le-Bel, Ecouën, Arcelles, Saint-Brice, Groslait, Montmorency, Tremblay, Villepinte, etc.
[115] The sale of Guipures belonged to the master mercers, the workmanship to the passementiers boutonniers. We find in the _Livre Commode ou les Adresses de la Ville de Paris_ for 1692, that "Guipures et galons de soye se vendent sur le Petit Pont et rue aux Febvres, où l'on vend aussi des galons de livrées."
[116] Godefroy. _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610. _Sacre du Roy Henry II._, 1547.
[117] In 1549. _Ibid._
[118] _Traité des Marques Nationales_, dar M. Beneton de Morange de Peyrins. Paris, 1739.
[119] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[120] Une robe de velours vert couverte de Broderies, gimpeures, et cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.
Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.
Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or.
Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.
Robe de weloux noyr semée geynpeurs d'or.
[121] _Dictionnaire de l'Académie._
[122] 1536-44. Sir Fred. Madden.
2 payr of sleeves whereof one of gold w^h p'chemene lace, etc.
2 prs. of sleves w^h pchmyn lase, 8/6.
[123] _Ecclesiastical Memoirs_, iii. 2, 167.
[124] State Papers, vol. 82, P. R. O.
[125] Surtees' Society, Durham, "Wills and Inventories."
[126] 1572. Thynne, in his _Debate between Pride and Lowliness_, describes a coat "layd upon with parchment lace withoute."
[127] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[128] Roll. 1607. P. R. O.
[129] _Ibid._ 1626. 11 nightcaps of coloured satin, laid on thick, with gold and silver parchment lace, 41. 9. 9.
[130] Roll. 1630.
[131] "Eidem pro novemdecem vir[=g] et di[=m] aureæ et argenteæ pergame[=n] laciniæ pondent sexdecim un[=c] 2/[dram] 1/[scruple] venet. ... pro consua[=t] ad ornan[=d] duas sedes utroque latere thronæ in domo Parliament."--_Gt. Ward. Acc._ Car. II. xxx. and xxxi. = 1678-9.
In 1672-73 is an entry for "2 virgis teniæ pergame[=n]."
[132] Surtees' "Inventories."
[133] Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621.
[134] _In the Recueil de pièces les plus agréables de ce temps, composées par divers autheurs._ Paris, chez Charles Sercy, MDCLXI.
The poem is dedicated to Mademoiselle de la Trousse, cousin of Madame de Sévigné, and was probably written by one of her coterie.
[135] The Cravates or Croates soldiers had a band of stuff round their throats to support an amulet they wore as a charm to protect them from sabre-cuts. What began in superstition ended in fashion.
[136] These were, in France, Guibray, Beaucaire, and Bordeaux; in Germany, Frankfort; in Italy, Novi.
[137] All articles of luxury were to be met with at the provincial fairs. When, in 1671, Catherine of Braganza, the Duchess of Richmond, and the Duke of Buckingham, visited Saffron Walden fair, the Queen asked for a pair of yellow stockings, and Sir Bernard Gascoyne, for a pair of gloves stitched with blue.
[138] 10 Hen. III., Devon's _Issues of the Exchequer_.
[139] "No lace-woman," says Ben Jonson, "that brings French masks and cut-works." That lace was sold by pedlars in the time of Henry VIII., we find from a play, "The Four P's," written in 1544, by John Heywood. Among the contents of a pedlar's box are given "lasses knotted," "laces round and flat for women's heads," "sleeve laces," etc.
On opening the box of the murdered pedlar (_Fool of Quality_, 1766), "they found therein silk, linen, laces," etc.
[140] Defoe describes Sturbridge fair as the greatest of all Europe. "Nor," says he, "are the fairs of Leipsig in Saxony, the Mart at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, or the fair of Nuremburg or Augsburg, any way comparable to this fair of Sturbridge."
In 1423, the citizens of London and the suburbs being accused of sending works of "embroidery of gold, or silver, of Cipre, or of gold of Luk, togedre with Spanish Laton of insuffisant stuff to the fayres of Sturesbrugg, Ely, Oxenford, and Salisbury"--in fact, of palming off inferior goods for country use--"all such are forfeited."--_Rot. Parl._, 2 Hen. VI., nu. 49.
[141] "Lingua, or the Combat of the Tongue." A Comedy. 1607.
[142] This system of colporteurs dates from the early Greeks. They are termed both in Greek and Hebrew, "des voyageurs."
[143] "She came to the house under the pretence of offering some lace, holland, and fine tea, remarkably cheap."--_Female Spectator._ 1757.
[144] The centres of the lace manufacture before 1665 were:--
BELGIUM Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liége, Louvain, Binche, Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray, etc.
FRANCE (Spread over more than ten Provinces)-- Artois Arras (Pas-de-Calais). French Flanders Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord). Normandy Dieppe, Le Hâvre (Seine-Inférieure). Ile de France Paris and its environs. Auvergne Aurillac (Cantal). Velay Le Puy (Haute-Loire). Lorraine Mirecourt (Vosges). Burgundy Dijon (Côte-d'or). Champagne Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes). Lyonnais Lyon (Rhône). Poitou Loudun (Vienne). Languedoc Muret (Haute-Garonne).
ITALY Genoa, Venice, Milan, Ragusa, etc. SPAIN La Mancha, and in Catalonia especially. GERMANY Saxony, Bohemia, Hungary, Denmark, and Principality of Gotha. ENGLAND Counties of Bedford, Bucks, Dorset, and Devon.
[145] _Industrial Arts of the Nineteenth Century_, Digby Wyatt.
[146] Francesco Nardi. _Sull' Origine dell' Arte del Ricamo._ Padova, 1839.
[147] _Ricamare. Recamar._
[148] The traditions of the Low Countries also point to an Eastern origin, assigning the introduction of lace-making to the Crusaders, on their return from the Holy Land.
[149] _Origine ed Uso delle Trine a filo di refe_ (thread), 1864. Privately printed.
[150] 1469.--Io, Battista de Nicollo d'Andrea da Ferrara, debio avere per mia manifatura et reve per cuxere et candelle per inzirare.... It. per desgramitare e refilare e inzirare e ripezare e reapicare le gramite a camixi quatordece per li signori calonexi, et per li, mansonarij le qual gramite staxea malissimamente, p. che alcune persone le a guaste, Lire 1 10. It. per reve et p. candelle, L. 0 5.
1469.--I, Baptist de Nicollo of Andrea da Ferrara, having owing to me for my making, and thread to sew, and candles to wax.... Item, for untrimming and re-weaving and waxing and refixing and rejoining the trimmings of fourteen albs for the canons and attendants of the church, the which trimmings were in a very bad state, because some persons had spoiled them, L. 1 10. It. for thread and wax, L. 0 5.
These trimmings (gramite), Cav. Merli thinks, were probably "trine."
"At Chicago was exhibited the first kind of net used in Italy as lace on garments. It is made of a very fine linen or silk mesh, stiffened with wax and embroidered in silk thread. It was in use during the fourteenth century, and part of the fifteenth" (_Guide to New and Old Lace in Italy_, C. di Brazza, 1893). This is probably the gramite, or trimmings of the albs, mentioned in the account book formerly belonging to the Cathedral of Ferrara, and now preserved in the Municipal Archives of that city.
[151] See MILAN.
[152] _Trina_, like our word lace, is used in a general sense for braid or passement. Florio, in his Dictionary (_A Worlde of Words_, John Florio, London, 1598), gives _Trine_--cuts, snips, pincke worke on garments; and _Trinci_--gardings, fringings, lacings, etc., or other ornaments of garments.
_Merlo_, _merletto_, are the more modern terms for lace. We find the first as early as the poet Firenzuola (see FLORENCE). It does not occur in any pattern book of an older date than the "Fiori da Ricami" of Pasini, and the two works of Francesco de' Franceschi, all printed in 1591.
[153] The laces, both white and gold, depicted in the celebrated picture of the Visit of the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, by Lavinia Fontana, now in the Lambeccari Gallery, executed in the sixteenth century, prove that white lace was in general use in the Italian Courts at that epoch.
[154] At present, if you show an Italian a piece of old lace, he will exclaim, "Opera di monache; roba di chiesa."
[155] Statute 2, Henry VI., 1423. The first great treaty between the Venetians and Henry VII. was in 1507.
[156] _Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York_, 1502. P. R. O. Also published by Sir H. Nicolas.
[157] Inv. Henry VIII.
[158] Gremio, when suing for Bianca, enumerates among his wealth in ivory coffers stuffed, "Turkey cushions bossed with pearl; valance of Venice gold in needlework."--_Taming of the Shrew._
[159] "One jerkyn of cloth of silver with long cuts down righte, bound with a billament lace of Venice silver and black silk."--_Robes of the late King_ (Edward VI.).
[160] "A smock of cambrik wrought about the collar and sleeves with black silke; the ruffe wrought with Venice gold and edged with a small bone lace of Venice gold."--_Christmas Presents to the Queen_, by Sir G. Carew. "7 ounces of Venice 'laquei bone' of gold and black silk; lace ruff edged with Venice gold lace," etc. _G. W. A. Eliz., passim_, P. R. O.
[161] 1587.
[162] Madame de Puissieux died in 1677, at the age of eighty.
[163] Venice points are not mentioned by name till the ordinance of 1654. See GREEK ISLANDS.
[164] _Hudibras._
[165] Italy we believe to have furnished her own thread. "Fine white or nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema, twisted after the same manner as the silk of Bolonia," writes Skippin, 1651.
[166] _Halimedia opuntia_, Linn.
[167] That most frequently met with is the Corona of Vecellio. See APPENDIX.
[168] First mentioned in the Sforza Inventory, 1493 (see MILAN); not in the pattern-books till Vecellio, 1592; but Taglienti (1530) gives "su la rete," and "Il specchio di Pensieri" (1548), "purito in rede."
[169] Plate V.
[170] First given in the _Honesto Esempio_. 1550 and _passim_.
[171] Mentioned by Taglienti (1530), and afterwards in the _Trionfo_ (1555), and _passim_.
[172] Given in _Il Monte_, circ. 1550, but described by Firenzuola earlier. See FLORENCE.
[173] See Chap. III., notes 104 and 106.
[174] "Toile de la Pale."--A pasteboard about eight inches square, enclosed in cambric or lace, used to cover the paten when laid over the cup.
[175] The whole furniture of a room taken from a palace at Naples, comprising curtains, and vallance of a bed, window curtains, toilet, etc., of straw-coloured laces, reticella, embroidered netting, etc.; the price asked was 18,000 francs = £720. There was also much of the rose point, and a handkerchief bordered with beautiful flat Venetian point of the same colour, forming part of a trousseau. 700 francs = £28.
[176] Taglienti (1530) has _groppi_, _moreschi_, and _arabeschi_; and _Il Specchio_ (1548), _ponti gropposi_. See also the Sforza Inventory, 1493.
[177] See GENOA.
[178] Taglienti (1530) gives _a magliata_, Parasole (1600) _lavori di maglia_.
[179] _Punti a stuora_ occur in _Il Specchio_ (1548), _I Frutti_ (1564), and in the _Vera Perfettione_ (1591) the word _stuora_ (modern, _stuoja_) means also a mat of plaited rushes, which some of these interlaced patterns may be intended to imitate.
[180] _Burato._ See APPENDIX.
[181] There are many patterns for this work in _Le Pompe di Minerva_, 1642. Taglienti (1530) has _desfilato_ among his _punti_.
[182] Many other points are enumerated in the pattern-books, of which we know nothing, such as _gasii_ (_I Frutti_, 1564), _trezola_ (_Ibid_), _rimessi_ (_Vera Perfettione_, 1591), _opere a mazzette_ (Vecellio, 1591, and Lucretia Bomana, N.D.).
[183] _Tracts on Trade of the Seventeenth Century_, published by MacCulloch, at the expense of Lord Monteagle. 1856.
[184] Venice point forms a considerable item in the expenses of Charles II. and his brother James.
[185] Venice noted "for needlework laces, called points."--_Travels Thro' Italy and France_, by J. Ray. 1738.
[186] Misson, F. M., _Nouveau Voyage d'Italie_, 4me édition. La Haye, 1702.
[187] _Origine delle Feste Veneziane_, da Giustina R. Michiel. Milano, 1829.
[188] _An Itinerary, containing his Ten Yeeres Travel through Germany, Bohmerland, Switzerland, Netherland, Denmark, Poland, Italy, Turkey, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland._ Lond., 1617.
[189] 1591.
[190] See, in APPENDIX, designs for _bavari_ by Lucrezia.
[191] The entry of the Venetian ambassador, Mocenigo, is described in the _Mercure Galant_, 1709:--
"Il avoit un rabat de point de Venise.... Sa robe de damas noir avec des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrière. Cette robe etoit garnie de dentelle noir."
[192] _Letters from Italy._ So, in a play of Goldoni, who wrote in the middle of the last century, the lady has a Brussels (Angleterre) head-dress.
Don Flaminio: "Mi par bellisima cotesto pizzo Barbara: E un punto d'Inghilterra che ha qualche merito."--_Gli Amori di Zelinda e Lindoro._
In Goldoni's plays all the ladies make lace on the pillow (_ballon_), so the art of making the needle Venice point was probably at an end.
[193] "La plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espèce de camail qui, sous un chapeau noir emplumé, couvre leurs épaules et leur tête."--Madame du Boccage, 1735. _Lettres sur l'Italie._
"Quella specie de lungo capuocio di finissimo merlo pur nero, chiamato bauta."--Michiel.
[194] "L'île de Burano où l'on fabrique les dentelles."--Quadri, _Huit Jours à Venise_.
[195] _Technical History of Venetian Laces_, Urbani de Gheltof. Translated by Lady Layard. Venice, 1882.
_Origines de la Dentelle de Venise et l'École de Burano._ Venice, 1897.
Traditions of lace-making were kept alive in Venice, Cantu and Liguria during the first half of the nineteenth century by the manufacture of an inferior quality of _blonde_, once extensively made at Venice, which has since died out, owing to the revival in the production of thread-lace and guipures at Palestrina.
[196] "Velleto (veil) uno d'oro filato.
"Payro uno fodrete (pillow-case) di cambria lavorate a gugia (à l'aiguille).
"Lenzuolo (sheet) uno di revo di tele (linen thread), cinque lavorato a punto.
"Peza una de tarnete (trina) d'argento facte a stelle.
"Lenzolo uno de tele, quatro lavorato a _radexelo_ (reticello).
"Peze quatro de _radexela_ per mettere ad uno moscheto (zanzariere, mosquito curtain).
"Tarneta una d'oro et seda negra facta da ossi (bones).
"Pecto uno d'oro facto _a grupi_.
"Lavoro uno de rechamo facto _a grupi_ dove era suso le pere de Madona Biancha.
"Binda una lavorata a poncto de doii fuxi (two bobbins) per uno lenzolo."--_Instrumento di divizione tre le sorelle Angela ed Ippolita Sforza Visconti_, di Milano, 1493, Giorno di Giovedì, 12 Settembre.
[197] "La mità de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da lavorare le donne."
[198] Harl. MS. No. 1419.
[199] Roll. P. R. O.
[200] P. R. O.
[201] De la Mare, _Traité de la Police_.
[202] "Statuts, Ordonnances et Reglemens de la Communauté des Maistres Passementiers, etc., de Paris, confirmez sur les anciens Statuts du 23 mars 1558." Paris, 1719.
[203] _Grand Dictionnaire Universel du Commerce._ 1723.
[204] _Voyage en Italie._ 1765.
[205] Peuchet, J., _Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante._ Paris, An vii. = 1799.
[206] _Letters from Italy_, by a lady. 1770.
"Questo collar scolpì la donna mia De basso rilevar, ch' Aracne mai, E chi la vinse nol faria più bello. Mira quel bel fogliame, ch' un acanto Sembra, che sopra un mur vada carponi. Mira quei fior, ch' un candido ne cade Vicino al seme, apr' or la bocia l'altro. Quei cordiglin, che'l legan d'ognitorno, Come rilevan ben! mostrando ch' ella E' la vera maestra di quest' arte, Com ben compartiti son quei punti! Ve' come son ugual quei bottoncelli, Come s' alzano in guisa d'un bel colle L'un come l' altro!... Questi merli da man, questi trafori Fece pur ella, et questo punto a spina, Che mette in mezzo questo cordoncello, Ella il fe pure, ella lo fece." --_Elegia sopra un Collaretto_, Firenzuola (circ. 1520).
[208] Rymer's _Foedera_ (38 Hen. VIII. = 1546).
[209] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-89.
[210] _Compte des dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, Soeur du Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394.
[211] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._--Arch. Nat., K. K. 170.
[212] In 1535.
[213] She died in 1862.
[214] See VENICE, 1.
[215] _Inventaire du Trésor de N. D. de Lorette._--Bib. Nat. MSS.
[216] _Letters from Italy._
[217] The _gremial_, or apron, placed on the lap of the Roman Catholic bishops when performing sacred functions in a sitting posture.--Pugin's _Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament_.
[218] This reminds one of the lines of Goldsmith, in his poem, "The Haunch of Venison," the giving of venison to hungry poets who were in want of mutton; he says:
"Such dainties to send them their health it would hurt; It's like sending them ruffles when wanting a shirt."
[219] _A true Relation of the Travailes, and most miserable Captivitie of W. Davies._ Lond., 1614.
[220] _An Italian Voyage, or a Complete Journey through Italy_, by Rich. Lassels, Gent. 2nd edit., Lond., 1698. A reprint, with additions by another hand, of the original edition. Paris, 1670. Lowndes' _Bibliographer's Manual_. Bohn's new edit.
[221] "Portano alcune vesti di tela di lino sottile, lunghe fino in terra, con maniche larghe assai, attorno alle quali sono attaccati alcuni merletti lavorati di refe sottilissimo."--Habiti di donna dell' Isola d' Ischia. _Degli Habiti Antichi e Moderni di Diverse Parti del Mondo di Cesare Vecellio._ Venezia, 1590.
[222] We have among the points given by Taglienti (1530), "pugliese." Lace is still made in Puglia and the other southern provinces of Naples and in Sicily.
The Contessa di Brazza says that Punto Pugliese resembled Russian and Roumanian embroidery.
[223] Brydone, _Tour through Sicily_. 1773.
[224] From the tax-books preserved in the Archives of S. George, it appears that a tax upon gold thread of four danari upon every lira in value of the worked material was levied, which between 1411 and 1420 amounted to L. 73,387. From which period this industry rapidly declined, and the workers emigrated.--Merli.
[225] Signore Tessada, the great lace fabricant of Genoa, carries back the manufacture of Italian lace as early as the year 1400, and forwarded to the author specimens which he declares to be of that date.
[226] "Laqueo serico Jeano de coloribus, ad 5s. per doz." _G. W. A. Eliz._--16 & 17 and 19 & 20. P. R. O.
[227] Dated 1639.
[228] _Garderobe de feue Madame._ 1646. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
[229] Le Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie. Paris, 1648.
[230] Queen Christina is described by the Grande Mademoiselle, on the occasion of her visit, as wearing "au cou, un mouchoir de point de Gênes, noué avec un ruban couleur de feu."--_Mém. de Mademoiselle de Montpensier._
"Item, ung peignoir, tablier et cornette de toile baptiste garnie de point de Gênes."--1644. _Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._
"Un petit manteau brodé et son collet de point de Gênes."--_The Chevalier d'Albret._
"Linge, bijoux et points de Gênes."--Loret, _Muse Historique_. 1650.
"Item, ung autre mouchoir de point de Gênes."--_Inv. du Maréchal de La Motte._ 1657.
[231] _Mém._, t. xiv., p. 286.
[232] Signore Tessada has in his possession a pair of gold lappets of very beautiful design, made at Genoa about the year 1700.
[233] _Letters from Italy._ 1770.
[234] Cavasco. _Statistique de Gênes._ 1840.
[235] The bobbins appear to have been made in Italy of various materials. We have _Merletti a fusi_, in which case they are of wood. The Sforza inventory gives _a doii fuxi_, "two bobbins," then _a ossi_, "of bone," and, lastly, _a piombini_; and it is very certain that lead was used for bobbins in Italy. See PARASOLE (1600).
[236] _Memorie Storiche di Santa Margherita._ Genoese pillow-laces are not made with the réseau, but joined by bars. Of Milan lace it is said, "It resembles Genoese pillow-lace in having the same scrolls and flowers formed by a ribbon in close stitch, with a _mesh_ or _tulle_ ground, whereas the Genoese lace is held together by bars."--C. di Brazza, _Old and New Lace in Italy_ (1893).
[237] Lefébure writes, "A version of these Milanese laces has been produced by using tape for the scroll forms and flowers, and filling in the open portions between the tapes by needlework stitches." The C. di Brazza calls similar lace _Punto di Rapallo_ or _Liguria_, a lace formed by a ribbon or braid of close lace following the outline of the design with fancy gauze stitches made by knotting with a crochet needle. The special characteristic of this lace is that the braid is constantly thrown over what has gone before. The design is connected by brides. A modification, where the braid is very fine and narrow, and the turnings extremely complicated, and enriched by no fancy stitches between, is _Punto a Vermicelli_.--_Old and New Lace in Italy._
[238] Communicated by Sig. Gio. Tessada, Junr., of Genoa.
[239] Gandolfi, _Considerazioni Agrario_.
[240] A small borgo, about an hour's drive from Savona, on the road leading to Genoa.
[241] Cav. Merli.
[242] In the Albert Museum of Exeter are several of these tallies marked with the names of their owners--Bianca, Maria Crocera, and others.
[243] "Many skilful lace-makers in Italy have for some time imitated the old laces and sold them as such to travellers. A Venetian lace-worker, now residing at Ferrara, can copy any old lace known" (Mrs. Palliser, 1864).
[244] This lappet, 357-68, in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, was described by Mrs. Palliser as "Argentella," and supposed to be of Genoese workmanship. "Formerly much of it was to be met with in the curiosity shops of that city, but now it is of rare occurrence. The Duchess of Genoa possesses a splendid flounce of the same lace, with the Doria eagle introduced into the pattern. It formerly belonged to the Marchesa Barbaretta Saule" (Mrs. Palliser, _History of Lace_, 1864). Contessa di Brazza suggests that Argentella was the Italian for Argentan.
[245] Called by the people of the Riviera, _filo del baccalà di Castellaro_. Aloe fibre was formerly used for thread (Letter of Sig. C. G. Schiappapietra). It is also styled _filo di freta_ in the Venetian sumptuary ordinances.
[246] The Author has to express her grateful thanks to Signore Don Tommaso Torteroli, librarian to the city of Savona, and the author of an interesting pamphlet (_Storia dei Merletti di Genova lavorati in Albissola_, Sinigaglia, 1863), for specimens of the ancient laces of Albissola, and many other valuable communications.
[247] A word of Arabic derivation, used for denoting a fringe for trimming, whether cotton, thread, or silk.
[248] This custom of ornamenting the ends of the threads of linen was from the earliest times common, and is still occasionally met with both in the north and south of Europe. "At Bayonne they make the finest of linen, some of which is made open like network, and the thread is finer than hair" (_Ingenious and Diverting Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_, London, 1679).
There is a painting of the "Last Supper" at Hampton Court Palace, by Sebastian Ricci, in which the tablecloth is edged with cut-work; and in the great picture in the Louvre, by Paul Veronese, of the supper at the house of Simon the Canaanite, the ends of the tablecloth are likewise fringed and braided like the _macramé_.
[249] LACE SCHOOLS IN ITALY.--At Coccolia, near Ravenna, Countess Pasolini founded a school on her property to teach and employ the peasant women and copy antique designs. Another more recently established school near Udine, in the province of Friuli, is under the direction of the Contessa di Brazza. Among charitable institutions which interest themselves in the lace industry are the Industrial School of SS. Ecce Homo at Naples, and San Ramiri at Pisa, which was originally founded by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany in the middle of the eighteenth century to teach weaving. This industry, and that of straw-plaiting, met with no success, and the school gradually developed into an industrial school in the modern sense. There are many schools on the same system in Florence, and one (San Pelegrino) at Bologna. At Sassari, in Sardinia, the deaf and dumb children in the great institution of the "Figlie di Maria" are taught to make net lace. Torchon and Brussels pillow lace is worked under the direction of the Sisters of Providence in the women's prison at Perugia.
[250] Laborde, _Glossaire_. Paris, 1853.
[251] Statute 2 Hen. VI., c. x., 1423.
[252] Taglienti (1530) among his _punti_ gives _Ciprioto_ (an embroidery stitch).
[253] _Description de Raguse_ (Bib. Nat. MSS., F.Fr. 10,772).
[254] Points de Raguse--first mentioned in an Edict of January, 1654, by which the king raises for his own profit one quarter of the value of the "passems, dentelles, points coupez de Flandres, pointinars, points de Venise, de Raguse, de Gênes," etc. (_Recueil des Lois Françaises_). Again, the Ordinance of August, 1665, establishes the points de France, "en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gênes, Raguse, et autres pays étrangers," recited in the _Arrêt_ of Oct. 12th, 1666.--De Lamare, _Traité de la Police_.
[255] See VENICE.
[256] In 1661.
[257] See head of chapter.
[258] In 1667.
[259] See APPENDIX.
[260] _A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Lace in the Victoria and Albert Museum_, by the late Mrs. Bury Palliser. Third edition, revised and enlarged by A. S. Cole.
[261] _Edinburgh Advertiser_, 1764.
[262] There is no corroboration of Mrs. Palliser's statement above that lace was ever made in Malta; if so, it would have been of the Genoese geometrical kind, of which Lady Hamilton Chichester adapted the designs and evolved what is now known as Maltese lace by the aid of workers imported from Genoa. The Maltese cross has been introduced into the designs as a distinguishing mark.
[263] "A lace of similar character (Maltese) has also been made successfully in the missionary schools at Madras" (Mrs. Palliser).
[264] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.
[265] In the Philippine Islands the natives work Manilla grass into a sort of drawn thread-work or tatting.
[266] 1756. _Point d'Espagne hats._--Connoisseur.
[267] Beckmann, in his _History of Inventions_, says that "It was a fashion to give the name of Spanish to all kinds of novelties, such as Spanish flies, Spanish wax, Spanish green, Spanish grass, Spanish seed, and others."
[268] A. S. Cole. "Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making."
[269] _Livre Nouveau de Patrons_ and _Fleurs des Patrons_ give various stitches to be executed "en fil d'or, d'argent, de soie, et d'autres." Both printed at Lyons. The first has no date; the second, 1549. _Le Pompe_, Venezia, 1559, has "diversi sorti di mostre per poter far, d'oro, di sete, di filo," etc.
[270] "Not many years since, a family at Cadiz, of Jewish extraction, still enjoyed the monopoly of manufacturing gold and silver lace."--_Letter from Spain_, 1863. _Merletto Polichrome_, or parti-coloured lace, was also invented and perfected by the Jews, and was made in silk of various colours, representing fruit and flowers. This industry has been revived in Venice, and carried to great perfection.
[271] Senor J. F. Riano. _The Industrial Arts in Spain._--"Lace."
[272] "Spain has 8,932 convents, containing 94,000 nuns and monks."--Townsend, J., _Journey Through Spain in the Years 1786 and 1787_.
[273] The aloe thread is now used in Florence for sewing the straw-plait.
[274] Barcelona, 1892, page 225, quoted by Signor J. F. Riano. Date of