Part 2, 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in

squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These consist of the Seven Planets, Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and {479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page contains the Extract from the Privilege.

This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy existing--that in the Library at Rouen.

It was followed the same year by two other editions, with alterations.[1320]

66.

[Sidenote: 1587. _2nd Ed. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie. Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A. Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.

[Sidenote: _2nd part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes.

Nouvellement inventez au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321]

1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet, as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de point couppé. (See Fig. 4.)

2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two hunting subjects.

67.

[Sidenote: 1587. _3rd Edit. No. 1. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1322]

This must be the first impression of the third edition.

[Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 2. 1st Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1323]

68.

[Sidenote: _2nd Part._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1324]

This must be subsequent to the Brussels impression, as Jean le Clerc has changed his address.

In the third edition, dorso of pp. 1 and 2, we have the addition of portraits of Louise de Vaudemont and Henry III., with a complimentary stanza of four lines under each.

In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised, since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le College de Marmouttier."

1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in the preceding impression.

2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de {481}Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag, Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, representant le Printemps," etc.

These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.)

On the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of France and Poland.

69.

[Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 3. Parts 1 and 2._]

A later impression still.

Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325]

34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd.

70.

[Sidenote: 1595. _3rd Edit. No. 4. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne Douairière de France.

De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore veuë ny inventée.

A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326]

This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589.

71.

[Sidenote: 1606. _3rd Edit. No 5. Parts 1 and 2._]

The same title as that of 1595--differing only in date.[1327]

Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606."

The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," and 4 stomachers.

The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less.

On the last page the escutcheon of France and Navarre.

72.

[Sidenote: 1589. _4th Edit. Turin. Parts 1 and 2._]

Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328]

Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and 39 plates; the 2nd with 36 plates.

{482}The editions of 1613 and 1623 are described in their chronological order. Nos. 64 and 71.

That of 1603 we have not seen; but M. Leber states it to be equally rich with that of 1623.

The copies of Vinciolo in the Bodleian bear the dates of 1588, 1603, and 1612.

Baron Pichon has a copy of an impression of 1612.

One at Bordeaux, in the Bib. de la Ville, is dated 1588.

In a book sale at Antwerp, March, 1864, there was sold the following:--

Lot 528. _Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement invente par le seign^r Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien._ Paris, Jean le Clerc, 1598.--_Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Les secondes oeuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme._ A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom. 1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois.

It went for 440 francs to a Mr. Ross. We do not know the editions of 1598.

As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of point coupé, the other of lacis.

The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At Liege, by Jean de Glen. (See No. 79.) Mr. Douce says that it was reprinted "at Strasburg, 1596, and at Basle, 1599, with a second part, which is rare, and sometimes contains a portrait by Gaultier of Catherine de Bourbon."

In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed _Vinciolo (Federigo) Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs_, contains, with "La pratique," etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. 85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved upon copper.

73.

[Sidenote: 1591. _London. Wolf._]

New and singular patternes and workes of Linnen. Serving for patternes to make all sortes of Lace edging and Cut-workes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of Ladies, Gentlewomen, and others that are desirous of this Arte. London: Imprinted by J. Wolfe and Edward White, 1591.[1329]

EPISTLE TO THE READER.

Having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes, as well for frame-workes as other needle-workes, I devised with all diligence and industrious studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print; All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order, the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; Whereby with more {483}ease they may be sewed and wrought in Cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing, or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not onely for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching, noteing withall that they are made to keepe the work or deuise in good order and even proportion--And even if ye will that squares be greater, make of two, one, four, two, and soe they will be larger. And in this manner may you proceed in all.

God prosper your desires.

Then follows the dedication:

To the Right Worshipful Gentlewoman, Mistress Susan Saltonstall, wife to the right Worshipfull Mr. Richard Saltonstall, Alderman of the City of London (afterwards Lord Mayor, and knighted in 1597).

It being my chance (Right Worshipfull) to lighten upon certaine paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of Foreign Countries which have bin greatly accepted of by divers Ladies and Gentlewomen of sundrie nations and consequently of the common people; This seemed unto mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines for the publishing thereof, But being in suspense of the dedication two causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your acceptation and patronage: First because that rare devises and inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller accepted, than ordinarie and common things, although of great price and value, Secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to Gentlewomen for to passe away their time in vertuous exercises Wherefore to fit and accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the