Part 4

If becalmed, at the approach of a squall, get the vessel headed toward the point you expect the blast to come from, so that the wind will strike her bow on, and not on the broadside. If the squall looks to be a lasting one, anchor, if in shallow water.

SQUALLS, TIME OF:

Squalls on the seacoast generally come off at either high or low water. If they come between tides they are apt to be bad ones. If your feelings or the barometer tell you a squall is likely to come off, carefully watch inshore for the appearance of the wind. White squalls--that is, sudden blows unaccompanied by cloud or rain, are the most likely to catch you napping. They sometimes precede a sudden change of wind. If you see the water suddenly whiten inshore, look out for trouble, and lower all sail at once.

SQUALL, STRUCK BY A:

If struck by a sudden squall, let go your main throat halyards first--not the peak. By keeping the peak up you will be able to luff the boat; letting go the throat will relieve her until you can get in the wind and get your sail down and muzzled. If you cannot get your sail down, get her off before the wind and haul your mainsail flat amidship; then steer so as to bring the wind dead aft. This will split the force and give you a chance to take in sail.

TIDES:

The time of the tide has much to do with the strength of the wind in sounds, bays, and channels. If a morning flood brings in the wind it will usually blow all day. Ebb tide in the morning is apt to produce calm or light winds during the summer months on our Eastern seaboard. Thunder squalls are also affected by the condition of the tide, coming off land at either high or low water.

TIDES:

Roughly speaking, the tide is one hour later every day. It is theoretically high when the moon bears directly South, either on one side of the world or the other, but actually the friction of the water causes a retardation which delays the wave until sometime after the moon has made its southing.

TIDES:

Channels open at both ends have generally very strong tidal currents, but a small rise and fall. The highest tides are in funnel-shaped bays or estuaries directly open to the sea. The day tides are generally higher than those at night.

HIGH WATER:

High water does not in many cases coincide with the stop of the current. In places situated upon sounds, channels and passages, the current continues to flow long after it is high water. The same with the ebb, which runs after the tide has reached its lowest level.

HIGH WATER:

Frequently the tide is not found to be high at the time given in the tables, and very often the current does not turn at the hour and minute predicted. This does not prove that the tables are unreliable or worthless. The tide is frequently prolonged or retarded by the wind, which, acting either with or against it, causes the current to run with greater or less force.

TIDES:

A correct and extensive knowledge of the tide is essential to good work, if navigating salt water. A constant study should be made of the tides, learn their strength, direction and height. Always carry a tide book, and make a habit of consulting the tables. By knowing the exact time of the current changes and the locations where they change earliest you will save hours of time in getting from port to port. In estuaries and sounds the current generally runs longest in mid-channel and changes on the inshore first. So if carrying the last of a tide keep in midstream; if using the first of it keep inshore. Eddies can be found by examining the shore line, and drawing conclusions from the trend of the coast. Much distance can sometimes be gained by working eddies if sailing against an adverse current.

ATTRACTION:

Floating objects have a tremendous attraction for each-other, and if lying becalmed will gradually draw together. This is an influence shared by every particle of matter in the universe, but passes unnoticed upon land where we only see it manifested as weight. It no doubt accounts for many of the collisions at sea in thick weather. Many strandings are also due to this attraction which draws vessels towards the land. In sailing at night or in thick weather along a coast, this force should be allowed for. It is most likely to be felt on high, bold shores, and least on low, shallow ones. It is this attraction that causes your dingey on a still night to insist upon lying against the stern or side of the yacht.

WORKING CRAFT AND STEAMERS:

Yachtsmen should never unnecessarily bother coasters or steam vessels, or any craft that is on the water for business. A yacht can be easily cast from tack to tack, whereas it is a laborious job to turn a heavily laden schooner round. But if you are not going to insist upon having the right of way always tack or shift your helm in plenty of time, so that the other man can know what you are about. If you decide to stand on, do so, and don’t balk at the last moment when close aboard of the other vessel. It is this indecision which leads to collisions.

COASTERS:

The lookout on coasters is generally badly kept, owing to their being short-manned, and sometimes to carelessness. At night and in foggy weather keep out of their track, if possible. Also, keep out of the way of tugs towing barges, as they are bad customers, who pay little or no attention to the rights of small craft. Large steamers are as a general thing very carefully navigated, and can be trusted to go clear, if they see you; but remember that yacht side lights are poor things, and cannot be seen at any distance.

ANCHORED VESSELS:

Never try to cross the bows of anchored vessels, especially sailing craft, unless you are well to windward of them. Trying to shave a jib-boom has cost many a man a spar or a sail. It is always best if there is any doubt of clearing to go under the vessel’s stern.

UNDERWAY, VESSELS:

Don’t attempt to cross the bows of another vessel, especially a larger one, when underway, unless you are certain you can clear her. You will be clear of the other vessel, providing she holds the same course, when you can see her anchor on the further bow. In meeting a large sailing vessel, head to head, don’t pass close along her lee side; your boat may become becalmed, soak in, and get a nasty swipe from a boom end.

CRUISING:

The rule for a cruiser is to start early and finish early. Map out a run that with the expected conditions you can complete easily in the allotted time. This, doing as many shippers do, starting after the sun is well up and finishing late, is the cause of discontent among a crew. Getting into harbor after dark, hungry and tired, all hands are in a bad humor, and work is neglected or scanted, and the pleasure of the run spoiled. If you have wind, and the tide is right, get away at daylight and finish your run before sunset; then you will have light to find an anchorage, and get all snug before getting supper and turning in.

MAKING A QUICK RUN:

To make a quick run in a sailing vessel wait until you get the conditions favorable and start. Then carry all she will, and push her right through. In this way I have made 120 miles in 24 hours. It is seldom on our Eastern Seaboard that you can make a run like this during the summer season, the winds as a general thing losing their strength after sunset.

ACCIDENTS TO MEN:

The principal accident that endangers the life and limb of yachtsmen is that inflicted by the main boom. I have known several men to have lost their lives through being struck by this spar, and have been twice badly hurt myself. A jibing boom comes over with tremendous force, and is likely, if it hits, either to fracture the skull or knock the unfortunate person it hits overboard. In cruising boats the foot of the sail should be cut up sufficiently aft to raise the boom above the head of the man standing in the cockpit. In very small boats this cannot be done. Another source of danger is the mainsheet. Great care should be exercised in bad weather when handling it. Also, look out for the blocks on the clew of the jib, as they will give you a nasty rap.

LEAD LINE, TO MAKE A:

It is no use marking a lead line as seamen do, as not one man in a hundred can ever remember the marks. Again, frequently you have to put a green hand to work taking casts, and he never could tell one piece of rag from another, or a hole in a piece of leather from one in the water. Get a good-sized piece of corded rope, like that used for window weights, measure of either five or ten fathoms. Ten is best, if you intend to cruise far. At one fathom clove hitch a short piece of marline round the line and tie one knot in the end. At two fathoms two knots and so on. In this way the greenest greenhorn can tell by simply feeling with his fingers. I use a line like this, and can tell in the darkest night just what the cast is.

LEAKS:

Leaks are most dangerous in the middle body and least dangerous at the ends, but the latter are most difficult to find and stop. Sometimes a small leak may have its outside opening far away from where it appears inside. This is especially so if it comes through the bow or stern timbers. It is seldom that a leak can be stopped from the inside, although it may be temporarily checked. You should always carry a small calking iron, some cotton, a piece of sheet lead, copper or rubber, for use in stopping leaks.

LEAKS:

Centerboard boats, if old or not properly built, will leak constantly, especially if they are hard-pressed. They should be thoroughly looked to before being put overboard in the spring, and any bad places cleaned out and re-calked. The king bolt should also be removed and repacked. Another source of leaks is the rudder port. In many boats this opening is not carried high enough, and in bad weather the sea slops in through it. It should be boxed in and carried up to the deck.

LEAKS:

Frequently a boat will leak in her topsides when heeled down, causing a lot of annoyance, as water running in there is apt to wet the bedding, etc. These leaks are sometimes the effect of straining, owing to poor construction. At other times they are due to sun exposure. If a vessel is allowed to lie constantly with one side exposed to the rays of the sun her plank will dry and open up. If a boat is not put into commission early in the spring she should be kept well-covered up to prevent this.

LEAKS:

Leaky decks are difficult to make tight, and are the worst possible nuisance. Wooden decks on small sail-boats cannot be kept tight, unless they are covered with canvas and kept well-painted. Wherever the canvas is pierced, be careful to see that the cloth is carried well up and closely tacked to the object that goes through it. If a bolt or screw for a fairleader or hook passes through have a wide washer at the base and screw it down hard. Around the mast at the partners use a coat made of sheet lead.

LEAKS:

A very common place for leaks to develop is in the rabbet between the garboard and keel, just under the mast. This is due to the downward thrust and working of the spar. If a boat persists in leaking there, lengthen the mast step so as to distribute the strain over a larger space. Our modern plank-keel boats are liable to develop cracks in the plank, which will only leak when underway, and are difficult to discover, as they close up when the boat is at rest. If the leak is bad it can be readily found by hauling the boat out, filling her bilge with water and watching where it drips out.

LEAKS, STOPPING:

You can sometimes stop or check a leak by calking from the inside, if you can get at it; but great care should be exercised in driving the cotton not to push it in too hard, as you may drive out what calking is in the seam, and make the leak worse. Holes, if they can be got at from the outside, can be covered with sheet lead, copper, or a piece of rubber boot leg. In an emergency the same can be used inside to check the flow. Barge men frequently use horse manure to stop leaks in the seams when near the water line; they throw it overboard and let the water draw it into the crevice. I have checked a leak by running a boat on a bar of soft sand, thus getting sand in the seam.

LEAK, TO FRAP A:

If you get a hole in the bottom from striking a rock or other obstruction, and cannot put the boat ashore on a safe place, you can check it enough to keep her afloat by what is called frapping. Take a sail or large piece of canvas, and fasten a line to each of the four corners, then on the inside of the canvas sew a lot of oakum or cotton so as to make a wad big enough to completely cover the hole and a large space around it. Pass two of the lines under the boat and bring them up on the side opposite to the one the leak is on; keep the other two on the side the leak is. Work the canvas along until it covers the hole, and then haul all the lines taut, and make fast, the pressure will force the wadding into the hole and check the inflow of water until you can lay the boat ashore.

SCUPPER-PIPE LEAKING:

If you get a bad leak in the scupper pipe, and cannot get at it from the inside, the following method is a quick and sure way of stopping the inflow of water: Cut a round disk of wood about five times bigger across than the outside opening of the pipe. Bore a hole in the middle of this disk just small enough to pass a strong cord through and knot. Then on inside of the disk fasten a good big wad of cotton batting, or oakum; this you can do with tacks, thread or glue. I have used thick paint and cotton wadding pulled out of an old quilt. When the disk is ready, take another line and weight it with a sinker, drop it down the scupper pipe until it hangs outside, then fish it up with a boat hook and bring the end on board. Marry the end of this cord to the cord attached to the disk. Then haul the cord in through the pipe until the disk comes up against and closes the scupper hole. By taking a stick and making a windlass of it you can roll the cord up tightly and secure the disk so it will not slip.

LOOKOUT REPORTS:

The lookout should examine the side lights, at least every half hour, and report to the man aft in command their condition. He should also see that the set of the headsails do not cover the lee light. If so, be prepared to show it clear if a vessel approaches on that bow.

SIDE LIGHTS:

The side lights should be kept clean and the lamps properly trimmed. Use signal oil in them. After lighting the lamps below place them in the lanterns, and let them burn for some minutes with the door open. This will dry out the moisture and allow it to escape. If you don’t do this, your glass will cloud with watery vapor. The cause of these lights refusing to burn is generally want of air, owing to overheating. The gas inside preventing the fresh oxygen from entering.

WORKING FORWARD AT NIGHT:

If you send a man forward of a rough dark night, put a light line around him and have it fast aft, or else have another hand hold it. This should always be done if a headsail is to be taken in, as more men are lost off the bowsprit than from any other spar.

LOOKOUT:

Always at night, if sailing in waters frequented by other vessels, keep a good lookout. If two men are in the watch, have one forward whenever you get among other craft, as it is difficult to keep a close watch to leeward from the cockpit. The helmsman should keep a lookout to windward and astern.

WATCH TACKLE:

A watch tackle or Handy Billy is most useful contrivance, and should have a place on every cruising boat. It is made of a single and double block, both having hooks, or else the single having a hook and the double an eye. For a small yacht, blocks carrying a 15-thread rope are heavy enough. When stretched to its best there should be at least 15 feet drift between the blocks. This tackle saves oceans of labor, and makes the heaviest job light. If your anchor sticks, Handy Billy will bring him to terms. If you get aground, he will give a strong pull on the warp to get you off. If the bobstay breaks, or a shroud parts, he will help to keep the mast in while repairs are being made. You want good, strong blocks, as there is a tremendous strain when all the beef is on this tackle. Keep Handy Billy in a safe and easily accessible place, and he will pay you well for his lodgings.

TACK, WHICH:

This is something that many men get sadly mixed on, and consequently are frequently violating the rules of the road. A vessel is on the starboard tack when her boom is on the port side and the wind is blowing on her starboard side. She is on the port tack when the boom is on the starboard side and the wind is blowing on her port side. Not only are there men sailing who in an emergency cannot tell the port side from the starboard, but who do not know their right from their left hand. One day I was watching a sergeant drilling a squad of recruits. He said to me, “would you believe it, half these men don’t know their right from their left hand.” Upon my questioning this, he suddenly commanded them to raise their right hands, two lifted the right, one the left, and the other three looked doubtfully at both for some seconds before raising the right one up. You can always know when you are on the starboard tack in this way: Standing at the helm and facing forward, if your right hand is on the side from which the wind is blowing you are on the starboard tack. When I was a boy, and even to-day in an emergency, I always tell my right hand by thinking which hand I would throw a stone with.

OFF THE WIND:

When a vessel is sailing off the wind the tack is determined by the position of the main boom. For instance, if a schooner or yawl is running wing-a-wing with the main boom off on the port side she is on the starboard tack.

RIGHT OF WAY:

A sailing vessel has the right of way over all steam or power vessels, except when she is the overtaking craft; then she must keep out of the way of the vessel overtaken. A “steam vessel” in the eyes of the law is any vessel driven by machinery, no matter of what kind or sort, and includes all gasolene, kerosene and electric boats. An auxiliary, if using her engine, is a steam vessel, and must keep clear of sailing craft, no matter whether she has sail set or not. Sailing craft must keep clear of rowboats.

SWIGGING A TACKLE:

When taking a swig on a tackle, in order to get a sail up, especially on the lee side, if the boat is heeling be careful to get a firm brace of your body or a good leg hold. Sometimes the pin will fly out, or your turn on the cleat slip, and you are liable to go overboard backwards.

REEF POINTS:

The best way is to have the different sets of points made of different kinds of line. Use cotton for the first and manila for the second. Then when tying in, especially in the dark, you will be sure to get the right ends knotted together.

PEAK HALYARDS:

The hauling part of the peak halyards is usually brought down and belayed on the starboard side of the mast. I bring mine down on the port side, for this simple reason: The terms peak and port begin with the same letter, and thus it is easy for a green hand to find the right rope. Frequently a trained hand in a moment of excitement will let go the wrong halyard, but by remembering the letter P you are less likely to make the mistake.

CREW AND SKIPPER:

If you are to command, show yourself a leader, not by talk, but by action. Always be first in everything that requires skill or courage. Thus you will win your crew’s respect, and if they respect you they will obey you. Never send a man to do a task you fear to do yourself. If there is any danger, lead, and your men will follow; but you cannot expect men to risk their limbs or lives to save your vessel if you shrink from the position who have the most at jeopardy. Don’t put all the hard work on the crew; do your share of it; also the dirty jobs. If you are working watch and watch, be sure to be the first on deck when your watch is called, and don’t leave it, unless you are sure that the yacht is in safe hands and that your care and skill is not needed.

SKIPPER’S DUTIES:

It is your duty as skipper to know and see everything that goes on. If you order the lead to be hove see that it is. See that the lights are attended to and ready. See that the course is being properly steered. Before turning in at night inspect your riding gear, likewise when coming to an anchor. Don’t trust to a report, go and look at it. See that the pump is used and the vessel kept clear of water. Make a practice of doing these things until they become a habit.

SKIPPER AND MATE:

If you have a second in command, and he is a man who understands his work, if you place him in charge of the deck don’t be constantly interfering with him. If he is not competent to take charge of the yacht, he has no business to be where he is. If you put confidence in a man, and he is worthy of it, it will strengthen him and enable him to do better work all along the line.

STANDING ORDER TO MATE:

My standing order, and one that I always enforce, is this: When in charge of the boat no reefs are to be shaken out or extra sail made without my order; but sail can be taken in or reefed at any time without waiting to call me.

CREW, DISCIPLINE:

In order to insure safety, comfort and good work, you must enforce a certain amount of discipline upon your crew. You can only do this by showing that you are amenable to it. You cannot expect men who are sailing with you for pleasure to obey orders or respect rules if you do not obey and respect them yourself. This is the prime fault with many young skippers. If you shape your own conduct according to your rules you will find that your crew, if they are any good, will do likewise. But do not make foolish rules or issue unnecessary orders; the less you restrict and domineer the better you will get along with your hands.

INJURY TO SAILS:

Sails are most often torn or split through carelessness in tieing in the points when reefing, or not untieing when shaking out. The first man will tie his points hard, the second slack, consequently bringing undue strain on one cloth. All the points should be tied with as nearly equal strain as possible. Another cause is allowing sails to fall and lie over pointed things, like oarlocks, anchor stocks and belaying pins. Somebody steps or hauls on the sail and the point goes through.

MENDING SAILS:

If you have a sister, or know somebody else’s sister, get her to show you how they herringbone or darn a rent, such as they frequently have in their clothes. This knowledge will enable you to mend a rent in your sail, and perhaps save the canvas from being torn to pieces. A small hole in a sail can be temporarily mended with court plaster. If the sail rends and starts to split up the cloth put in a safety pin at top and bottom of tear until you can get at it with a needle. Always carry a spare yard or two of canvas when cruising, as it will frequently come in handy for mending and other purposes.

KNOTTING AND SPLICING:

Every young yachtsman should learn to make the simple knots and splices. Nothing looks worse than to see on a boat a lot of rigging that is knotted or fastened together in a lubberly fashion. There is no need of learning the fancy knots, unless you want to, but you should know how to make the following knots, etc.:

Square or reef knot, Figure eight, Overhand, Fisherman’s bend, Carrick bend, Clove hitch, Half and whole hitch, Bowline, Bowline-on-a-bight, Sheet-bend, Rolling hitch, Wall and crown, Sheep-shank, Short splice, Sailmaker’s splice, Cut splice, Eye splice, Whipping, common, Whipping, Spanish, Serving, Mousing, Plain, stitching, Herringboning.

WASHING DOWN: