Part 2

Take the flesh from the breast of a chicken, place it in a mortar, and pound for ten minutes. Have two slices of bread soaked in milk; press the milk from it; pound it in the mortar with the chicken and the yolk of two eggs; pepper and salt. Pass through a wire and hair sieve; add a gill of switched cream; grease any kind of fancy shapes, and steam for ten minutes; turn out, and garnish with dice-cut pieces of ham, white of egg, and truffle. Dish on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with sauce suprême. Serve green peas in the centre of this entrée.

CREAM OF RABBIT.

Take the fillets of the back of two rabbits; scrape and pound in a mortar with one ounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs; soak two slices of bread in sweet milk, press the milk out and pound in the mortar; pass through a wire and hair sieve. Switch a glass of cream and the white of the two eggs, and add to the pounded rabbit. Steam in timbale moulds, covered with white paper for fifteen minutes. Serve with a cream sauce, and fill the centre with a few whole tomatoes, stewed in a glass of water, with a half-ounce of butter; pepper and salt.

LARDED SWEETBREADS

are cooked in the same way as for frying--the first part. Keep the sweetbreads whole, trim them neatly, and have twenty stripes of bacon two inches long, and with a larding needle draw the bacon gently through the sweetbreads, reversing the lines. Place in a stew-pan with one ounce of butter, and brown the sweetbreads to a light-brown colour; pour over half-pint of stock or water; simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Take a spoonful of butter and flour, and add to the sweetbreads a few chopped mushrooms; pepper and salt. Strain the sauce over the sweetbreads, garnish with Brussels sprouts in the centre.

FILLET OF BEEF WITH FRIED POTATO CHIPS.

Take one pound and a-quarter of fillet steak, cut it into four round slices, broil before a clear fire; have one ounce of fresh butter mixed with a few leaves of chopped parsley; pepper and salt; form into round balls, and place on the top of the broiled steak. Serve with fried potato chips. Peel and slice four potatoes into a basin with salt and water; dry on a clean towel, and fry in hot lard. Serve round the fillets of beef.

ENTRÉE RABBIT À LA TARTE.

Take the fillets of two young rabbits, flatten them with a rolling-pin dipped in cold water. Dip in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and fry a light-brown colour. Dish in a corner-dish, with a ring of mashed potatoes. On the bottom of the dish serve with sauce à la tarte.

These entrées will be found most economical for housekeeping, when served before dinner or for lunch with cold roast beef, garnished and glazed in the way described for glazing hams or tongues.

All entrées should be dished with a ring of mashed potatoes, or a ring on the bottom of the dish of rice, and dished in a circle, a garnish of vegetables in the centre, and sauce round the base.

SAUCES OF ENTRÉES.

SAUCE AU SUPRÊME.

Take the bones of a fowl of which the flesh has been used for entrées; break the bones in small pieces; boil them gently in a pint of water, with one clove, one onion, and a piece of carrot and turnip, two ounces of salt bacon. Boil for one hour, strain, and make the sauce as follows:--Place in a sauce-pan one ounce of butter and one of flour; brown over the fire to a light-brown colour; pour in the chicken stock; boil till it adheres to the back of the spoon; add one spoonful of tomato sauce, pepper and salt, and use where required. Add a glass of sherry if wanted.

SALMIS SAUCES.

Take one cupful of game stock, made from trimmings of roast game, add one ounce of browned flour and butter, one glass of port wine, and a pinch of red pepper and salt.

RUSSIAN SAUCE.

Place a stew-pan on the fire, slice three onions, let them brown in one ounce of butter, a pinch of pepper and salt; cover with a tight cover till the onions are dissolved; add one ounce of flour, a cup of stock, a glass of cream; stir over the fire for five minutes; pass through a pointed strainer; keep hot in the banbery.

What is meant by a banbery for keeping sauces a young cook may not know. I will explain. Procure a square-topped pan almost like a roasting-pan, and fill it half-full of boiling water. Set the little pans into it, to keep sauces hot when made, and to prevent them burning. Set the sauces in with small bits of butter on the top, so as not to let a skin form.

TO MAKE BROWN SAUCE.

Take four ounces of butter, place it in a sauce-pan with four ounces of flour, and brown over the fire; then with a wooden spoon stir the sauce gradually while pouring in a quart and a pint of second stock, made in the way laid down for boiling stocks. Boil till it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon; add a few drops of Worcestershire sauce. One-fourth of this sauce will do for a single entrée. Mushrooms can be added.

TRUFFLE SAUCE.

Mince two truffles, and place in a stew-pan with a cupful of brown sauce; boil for a quarter of an hour; add a glass of sherry.

TOMATO SAUCE.

Stew a few tomatoes in pepper and salt till tender, with the red part of one carrot. Pass through a wire and hair sieve, with two ounces of butter, into a stew-pan, one ounce of flour, and melt; add a cup and a-half of water; stir the tomato into the sauce.

WHITE SAUCE.

Take one ounce of flour, one ounce of butter, and melt it over the fire, then add a tea-cupful of strong white stock made in the way given for making white stock, one tea-cupful of milk, and a glass of cream. To this sauce may be added a squeeze of lemon, chopped parsley, mushrooms, or truffles.

VEGETABLE SAUCE.

Take some young carrots, and turnips, and onions, cut in thin stripes an inch long; one slice of bacon, cut in thin stripes the same as the vegetables, and the white of an egg boiled hard. Have the bacon and vegetables cooked in water, strain and add to a pint of brown sauce. This sauce will do for mutton cutlets.

SAUCE PIQUANTE.

Put two tea-spoonfuls of chopped onions, with one of common vinegar, and one glass of stock; let the onion boil a few minutes; add a cupful of brown sauce (this sauce must be as thick as cream); one tea-spoonful of French mustard, a few chopped gherkins and mushrooms.

TO HAVE STOCK FOR SAUCES OR PLAIN ENTRÉES ALWAYS AT HAND.

Take the bones of roast joints, and the trimmings of cutlets, put them in a sauce-pan with carrot, turnip, celery, and pepper-corns tied in a piece of muslin; boil them slowly from four to five hours, then strain into a basin till required for use.

Game stock can be made in the same way, any bones of roast game should be kept by themselves, but you can take a portion of another stock to help the game stock for sauces.

White stock is made with a knuckle of veal, or the bones of rabbit or fowl, or any uncooked meat, with carrots, turnips, a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, two or three blades of parsley tied in a bunch; let it simmer beside the fire for six hours, then pass it through a sieve; never let the stock remain more than one day in warm weather in the same basin. Pour it into a sauce-pan, and bring it to the boil each day; it will sour if this is not done. A few basins should be kept for stocks, and used for nothing else. The stock basins should be scalded and kept as clean as dairy dishes. All cooks should be most careful to have these stocks of different kinds, as pouring water on roasts, or joints, or game, is not satisfactory; sauces are not good made of water. With care there are always bones to be had for that purpose. All bones must be cut very small.

JOINTS IN GENERAL.

How to divide a sheep is most useful to every one to know, and the different names of the cuts of the sheep. Split a sheep straight down the back; cut off the legs, and hang up in the larder. There is the chump, that will roast or boil; then the loin chops. Cut off the flap and roll it up, and make a force-meat stuffing, and have it braised. The loin chops are best for broiling. Then raise the shoulder, and there will be nine cutlets under the shoulder. Those are best for dressed cutlets. Choose the mutton that is white in the colour, and not too heavy, as when it is too fat there is great waste. Yet not too lean, because it is a sign of poor mutton. All meat is tender if it be kept for a few days before using. It is the most economical way to get half a sheep from the butcher at once, if there is a large family, because it is got so much cheaper.

TO ROAST A LEG OF MUTTON.

To every pound of mutton allow fifteen minutes to roast. The oven must not be too hot when it first goes in, else it will burn on the outside, and not cook in the heart. Dish on a hot dish. It is an improvement to shake a little salt on the outside before pouring gravy over. To make the gravy: pour all the grease off, and add a little stock to the dripping pan, and pour over the roast.

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.

Place a trimmed leg of mutton in a pot with plenty of water to cover, and set it to boil. After skimming, add a handful of salt, two carrots and turnips, one parsnip; and when the leg has boiled two hours and a-half, it is done. Make a paper frill for the shank, and garnish with vegetables.

SERPENT OF MUTTON.

Take a large neck of mutton; take away all the bones, and flatten with a rolling-pin wet in cold water; make a stuffing of five ounces of bread-crumbs, one ounce of suet, one egg, pepper and salt, a few leaves of chopped parsley. Lay the meat out flat, place the force-meat stuffing in the centre, and roll it up in the form of the letter S; set it in a sauce-pan with one ounce of dripping, and brown. Dredge the mutton with flour; put one quart of cold water on it, six drops of Worcestershire sauce, a bay leaf, cut carrots and turnips, with a vegetable cutting in fancy shapes, and boil in hot water in a separate sauce-pan. When done, garnish round the serpent of mutton.

STEW OF RUMP BEEF.

Rump beef is the best part for stewing or braising. It should be of a fine quality, a deep red colour, rich grained, and covered with fat. When done, garnish it with some vegetables cut out with a round vegetable-cutter the size of marbles, and braise the same as braised leg of mutton.

ROAST CHICKEN.

Singe, and truss a chicken by cutting the legs off at the first joint. Make an incision in the wings, and put the gizzard under the left wing, and the liver under the right. Make a stuffing of three ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of suet, a few leaves of chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and one egg. Draw up the legs under the wings, and stuff the chicken in the breast. Grease a buttered paper, and lay over the baste frequently. Serve bread sauce in a boat. Time to cook, one hour.

ROAST BEEF.

The English cut is the best for roasting. Choose one with a nice under cut, and it is an economical way to take out the under cut and hang it up in a cold larder till required for use, as it will make very good steaks or entrées. Roast the beef in a moderately hot oven, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound. If preferred, roast beef should be under-done. Make a Yorkshire pudding in the following manner:--Put three table-spoonfuls of flour into a basin, mix into a smooth batter with milk, and add a pinch of salt, switch the yolk and whites of two eggs separately to a stiff froth; pour into the batter. Bake under the beef in a greased tin, when the beef is done. Dish a few minutes before wanted, and sprinkle a little salt on the top of the beef. Pour the grease off the pan, and put a tea-cupful of stock over the beef. Dish the Yorkshire pudding round the beef, with horse-radish sauce or in a separate dish.

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.

Put a small leg of mutton on the fire in a flat sauce-pan, with plenty of room, and brown it slowly on both sides; then add one quart of cold water, and let it simmer, one spoonful of browning, one of Worcestershire sauce. Boil three ounces of macaroni in cold water, and garnish round the mutton when about to serve.

TO BOIL A ROUND OF BEEF.

Put on a large pot with plenty of cold water, tie the meat up in a nice round shape, and secure it tightly with skewers. It must never be allowed to boil too fast, as that spoils salt meat. Garnish round the base with nice-shaped carrots, and a cup of its liquor coloured with browning over a few Brussels sprouts in four bunches round the dish. Boil the beef fifteen minutes to the pound.

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.

Take six pounds of the loin of veal; make an incision in the flap, and place some veal stuffing in it; wrap it round the kidney fat so as to secure it tightly. Envelop the loin in well-greased sheets of paper. Roast before a moderate fire for two hours. Baste it very often. Dish and pour some good brown gravy over it. Garnish with some nice fried potatoes.

LOIN OF VEAL BRAISED.

Bone about four pounds of a loin, by taking away all the bones, and flatten it out with a mallet wet in cold water. Make a veal stuffing of six ounces of bread-crumbs, three ounces of suet, one egg, and a few sweet herbs; lay this mixture into the centre of the veal, fold it over in a roll, and tie it tightly. Put on a sauce-pan with three slices of bacon, sliced carrot and turnip, and half an onion. Lay the roll of veal on the top of the vegetables till browned. Cover with a tight cover, and let it braise gently on a slow fire. About a cupful of hot water may be added when the veal is browned. When cooked, dish it up, and reduce the gravy it has been stewed in to a half cup. Time for cooking, two hours. Garnish with tomatoes or glazed onions.

BOILED HAM.

Soak a ham in cold water, and, before putting it on to boil, scrape all the grit and dirt off it. Boil from four to five hours, according to size. When the skin easily peels off, it is done. Plunge it in cold water, and remove the skin; make a glaze, and garnish in the following manner:--Put one half-ounce of gelatine to soak in as much water as will soak it to the thickness of cream. When it is melted, colour with a few drops of browning, and glaze the ham. Make an icing with two tea-spoonfuls of corn-flour, and one ounce fresh butter. Ornament with a paper coronet. Garnish with bunches of parsley and paper frill. This glaze will do for all kinds of meat requiring to be glazed.

BOILED LEG OF PORK.

Put a leg of pork on to boil. When it has boiled one hour, have two carrots, half a turnip, and one parsnip tied in a cotton cloth, and boil with pork for garnishing. Have half-a-pint of split pease soaked over night. Tie the pease up loosely in a napkin, and boil in the same pot with the pork. A leg of pork weighing eight pounds will take two hours and a-half. Dish, and garnish with the vegetables. Serve the pease pudding in a separate dish.

ROAST LEG OF PORK.

Make an incision between the skin and flesh; fill it with a stuffing of bread-crumbs, one egg, flavoured with onion and sage; sew the crevice with twine. Score the pork by cutting the rhind with a sharp knife in strips, an inch apart. Roast for three hours; keep well basted. Serve with apple sauce in a boat, and brown gravy.

PILLAU AU RIZ.

Boil a tea-cupful of rice in cold water for ten minutes, then take a roast chicken from a previous day’s dinner; set it into a stew-pan with the rice over, and one ounce of butter, half of an onion, a piece of mace, pepper and salt, and a cup of stock. Simmer slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Dish with the rice all over the chicken.

BOILED CHICKEN.

Truss a chicken by cutting the legs off at the second joint. Stick the legs into the body, make a parsley sauce, and pour over the chicken. Time to cook, one hour. Serve with streaky boiled bacon in a separate dish. Garnish with a few nice-shaped vegetables.

ROAST GROUSE.

This bird must be roasted with great care, before a clear fire, for twenty minutes. Some persons like all things well done, but the proper way is to be under-done. Baste well, and dish on a buttered toast. Serve with potato chips, bread sauce, and bread-crumbs.

ROAST HARE.

Hare should be kept for a week before roasting. Soak and wash in cold water, and dry on a clean towel. Make a stuffing of bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, one ounce of beef suet, part of the liver boiled and finely chopped, pepper and salt, one egg and a little ketchup. Stuff the hare; truss by placing the hind and fore legs flat against the sides; set the head back to rest on the shoulders; stick a trussing needle through the head of the hare, to keep back the head; baste with butter and sweet milk. Cook for two hours; serve with a gravy and red currant jelly.

ROAST RABBIT

Is cooked in the same manner as roast hare.

TO BOIL RABBITS WHOLE.

Truss same as a roast hare; boil gently for one hour and a-half; serve with onion sauce. If there is a pair of rabbits, dish them in a reversed way, and pour the onion sauce over.

FRIGEDEL OF RABBIT.

Pick the meat from the legs of the rabbits that the fillets have been taken from; chop fine with a little parsley, a small onion, pepper, and salt. Soak two slices of bread in sweet milk; press out the milk; and add to the minced rabbit one egg, and form into an oval shape and fry for fifteen minutes a light-brown colour. Serve with a brown sauce with capers in it.

BEEFSTEAK PIE.

One pound of the best beefsteak beaten and sprinkled with pepper and salt. Cut in square pieces, dredge with flour and roll up in neat rolls, with a little chopped onions. Place at the bottom of the dish two sheep’s kidneys, cut in slices, and two hard-boiled eggs laid through the pie, and cover with puff paste. A few drops of sauce and two glasses of stock may be added to the pie.

ROAST PARTRIDGES.

Pick and draw and clean these birds the same as fowls. Do not cut off the heads; twist the neck round the wing; bring the head to the breast. The legs and wings may be trussed the same as a fowl’s. The feet are left on and crossed one over the other. Baste well with butter before a clear fire. A partridge will take from twenty minutes to half-an-hour, and a pheasant three-quarters of an hour. Serve on toasted bread, with gravy and bread sauce.

Blackcock should be served in the same way.

RABBIT PIE.

Cut up a rabbit into joints, each leg in two, the back in three pieces, the breast in two pieces. Pepper and salt, dust with flour; boil two eggs hard, and cut them in quarters, cut a small onion in small pieces; place some onions at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of rabbit and some slices of bacon and hard-boiled eggs. Fill the dish with rabbit, add a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, two glasses of stock or water. Cover with American paste.

SAUCES FOR JOINTS.

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE FOR ROAST BEEF.

Grate one stick of horse-radish; put it on to boil with one glass of cream, one glass of milk, pepper and salt, and stew for ten minutes. Serve in a boat with roast beef.

CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.

Take one breakfast-cupful of the liquor the mutton has been boiled in. Wet with cold water one spoonful of flour, and stir into the boiling liquor, one spoonful of capers and a few drops of the vinegar. Pour over the mutton or serve in a boat.

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON

Is served with brown sauce over it, not water, for it takes the juice away. Serve with red currant jelly.

ONION SAUCE FOR ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON.

Peel and slice two onions and stew till tender. Strain them, place half-an-ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, add one half-ounce of flour, pepper and salt, and one cup of milk. Stir over the fire till it boils; add the onions, and serve in a boat.

APPLE SAUCE FOR ROAST PORK.

Take a nice soft cooking apple, cut into slices, and place in a stew-pan with a glass of water and a piece of butter the size of a marble. Cover and stew till tender; pass through a pointed strainer; sweeten; heat in pan, and serve hot.

BREAD SAUCE FOR ROAST CHICKEN.

Peel one small onion, and put it into a sauce-pan, with a tea-cupful of milk. Grate one slice of bread and put it into the milk; let it boil; add a little cream, half-an-ounce of fresh butter, pepper and salt, and serve with roast chicken.

PARSLEY SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS.

Chop some fresh leaves of parsley very fine, place two ounces of butter in a stew-pan with two ounces of flour, and melt. Add one cup of liquor from boilings of chicken; add one cup of milk; stir in the parsley; dry the ashet with the chickens on it, and pour the sauce over the chicken. Garnish chickens with rolls of bacon.

MINT SAUCE FOR ROAST LAMB.

One glass of vinegar, half-a-glass of water, one ounce of brown sugar, chop fine one half-spoonful of fresh mint, and serve in a boat.

ENTRÉE SAUCE À LA TARTE.

Place half-an-ounce of butter in a sauce-pan with half an onion minced fine, six drops of Worcestershire sauce, six drops of Harvey, a few drops of chili vinegar, a breakfast-cupful of good brown sauce, stirred into the sauce-pan, and boil all together for a few minutes.

PUDDINGS.

STRAWBERRY TOASTS.

Cut two slices of bread in strips an inch in length, switch two eggs into a cup of milk, sweeten and flavour with vanilla, soak the slices of bread in it for ten minutes, fry them in fresh butter, dish them, lay some strawberries on one half, and place two strips together, then set in a hot oven for five minutes. Dish in the form of a lattice-work on a folded napkin. Sprinkle with white sugar, and serve hot.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.

Switch yolks and whites of five eggs for five minutes both together; then add one pint of milk, one ounce of sugar, and one ounce of grated chocolate. Bake in small cups set in hot water for twenty minutes. Try if cooked in the centre with a knife.

HOLLANDAISE PUDDING.

Break four sponge cakes into crumbs, three macaronis, three water biscuits, one slice of stale bread; crumble all together. Then two ounces of dried cherries, one ounce of almonds, one glass of sherry, one pint of milk poured over three eggs, whites and yolks beaten separate. Add, last of all, butter, and ornament in a basin with green angelica. Steam for three-quarters of an hour. Try with a knife to see if ready. Serve with German sauce round the base.

BASKET PUDDING.

Take three ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, one egg rubbed to a cream, a tea-cupful of milk, three-quarters of a pound of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder mixed with flour; add the milk to the beaten eggs, then the flour; flavour with vanilla, and bake in small timbale moulds. Empty the centre by cutting off the top. Roll the outside in red currant jelly, then in fine crumbs of almonds. Fill the centre with switched cream and garnish with strawberries. Bring a handle of green angelica across the top.

ICE CREAM.

Take a quart of cream and flavour with any kind of flavouring, such as strawberry, vanilla. Whatever is chosen, sweeten it much sweeter than for ordinary use, as it loses in freezing. Set a small pail with the cream in it into a larger vessel. Build broken ice and salt round it; and turn for half-an-hour.

MARBLE PUDDING.

Put six penny packets of gelatine to soak in a cup of milk. When soaked, add it to a pint of boiling milk, two ounces of sugar, and stir over the fire till all is dissolved. Make five parts of the milk that has the gelatine in it; flavour each with different flavourings and different colours. Colour one yellow with yolk of egg, leave one white, one brown with coffee, one red with cochineal, one green with a few drops of spinach juice; pour the mixtures into a round basin in reversible manner; let the mixture be half cooled before mixing; when cold, turn out and garnish with different shades of jelly.

PLUM PUDDING.