Chapter 6

BUSHEY is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of Watford. The station (L.&N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village itself and High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent towards that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and pond, and here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in 1871 by Sir Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple lancet, is to the memory of Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas Titus, whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the notorious pamphlet _Killing noe Murder_, was born at Bushey and buried in this church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard.

BUSHEY HEATH (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex border. It is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the church, an E.E. brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added in 1882. The district is very healthy.

_Bushey, Little_, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins.

_Bushey Mill_ is on the river Colne, ¾ mile N.E. from Watford Junction.

_Butchery Green._ (See Hertford.)

BYGRAVE (1¾ mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small church built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from perhaps 1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor to a former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in chancel. Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats constructed five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John Thornbury, because of the many marauders that infested the neighbourhood. The place was once a market-town; the market, granted by Henry III., was held each Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few minutes' walk N. from the Icknield Way.

CALDECOTE (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480.

_Caldicot Hill_ is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border.

CASSIOBURY PARK. (See Watford.)

_Catlip_ is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.

_Chandler's Cross_ (2½ miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a small hamlet.

_Chapmore End_ is 2½ miles N. from Hertford.

_Chelsing_ is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware.

_Cherry Green_ (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.

CHESHUNT, according to Grose's _Antiquities_, the _Durolitum_ of Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it was a Roman station.[3] At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago, and is probably of Roman manufacture. Cheston, yet another old name of this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built. William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III. granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled; the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d. 1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860), and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele, but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the "Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont". The college, a famous institution, stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved.

[Footnote 3: Chauncy writes: "This Vill in old Records was called Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability, import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt".]

CHESS, river. (See Introduction.)

_Cheverell's Green_ (1½ mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining Beechwood Park.

_Childwick Green_ is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 2½ miles N. from St. Albans.

CHIPPERFIELD (2½ miles W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) was made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church on the common, E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest. There is a good lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The neighbourhood is pleasant and varied.

_Chipping_ (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the Royston Road.

_Chivesfield (or Chesfield)_ is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins was rector here as early as 1323. The windows were partly destroyed in 1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy's day, and are mentioned in the second volume of his _Antiquities_.

CHORLEY WOOD, a village 2½ miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a station on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style, dates from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the Quaker, was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley of the Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (_q.v._).

_Church End_ is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.

_Clapgate_, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End.

_Clay End_ (1½ mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant--5 miles--from Stevenage or Westmill Stations.

_Clay Hill_ is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath (_q.v._).

CLOTHALL (2¼ miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting church, chiefly Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the chancel to John Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to John Wright, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. 1519). On the S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also a sixteenth century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William Bramfield of Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley Hall, because it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to the E.

_Cockernhoe Green_ is 2½ miles S.W. from Offley, and 2½ miles N.E. from Luton Station (Beds).

_Cockhampstead_ (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near Albury Hall.

CODICOTE (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large village on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. The Church of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853; it stands in a field ½ mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates from 1312. The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several memorial windows, comparatively modern.

COLE GREEN has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from Hatfield to Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the Cowper's Arms and a few cottages.

_Coleman's Green_ (1½ mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is prettily situated near the "Devil's Dyke" and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed.

_Collier's End_ is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet.

COLNE, river. (See Introduction.)

COLNEY HEATH (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an ecclesiastical parish. The brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; it has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West Herts County Asylum is close by.

COLNEY STREET, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, forms an almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood Stations, L.&N.W.R. It is only a few minutes' walk from the pretty church at Frogmore (_q.v._).

_Common Moor_ may be visited from Croxley Green (¾ mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill.

_Cooter's End_ is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire border.

_Corey's Mill_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is named from an old mill, burnt in 1878.

COTTERED (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church (Perp.). There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by Edward Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. Several memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the seventeenth century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of William I. the _vill_ of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of Winchester. _Cottered Lordship_, a farmhouse near the village, is one of the very oldest dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an expert that the front door dates from 1450-80!

_Cromer_, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated in a valley, in a purely agricultural district.

_Cromer Hyde_ (1½ mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a farmhouse, the Chequer's Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages. The nearest church is ½ mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park.

_Croxley Green_ (¾ mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows.

_Cuffley_ is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter's Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The Church of St. James at Goff's Oak (_q.v._) is 1 mile E.

_Cumberlow Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford.

_Currants Bottom_, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.

_Dane End_, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The nearest church (½ mile N.) is at Little Munden.

_Dane End_, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road. There are a few cottages and two farms.

_Dassells_ is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by.

DATCHWORTH (1½ mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a church with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles round. The larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained glass windows in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was restored in 1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides of land at _Decewyrth_ were granted by an early Saxon king to the Monastery of St. Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward III. Thomas de la Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage of this church to the king.

_Dean End_ (¾ mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet.

_Delamore End_ is ½ mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 2½ miles S.E.

_Digswell_, a village on the river Maran, is ½ mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern Viaduct over the Maran Valley--a truly magnificent structure of forty arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, is[h] E.E. It contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe from Chauncy: "Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum Johannæ, filiæ Regis Navarr, et Regiæ Angliæ qui obiit--et Johanna uxor ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla--quæ obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415." Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2) William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a civilian, his wife, and ten children (_circa_ 1530); (4) to Thomas Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was restored in 1872.

_Digswell Water_ is a hamlet ½ mile E. from Digswell Church, and close to Welwyn Station.

_Down Green_ is ½ mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.

_Driver's End_, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant.

_Dudswell_, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is ½ mile N.W. from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.

_East End_ (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.

EASTWICK (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a parish near the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in 1873, is in E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of a knight in chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are crossed. There is neither date nor name; but it has been surmised (1) that the crossing of the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) that the effigy dates from early in the thirteenth century and represents a member of the De Toni or De Ros family. The former conjecture is undoubtedly erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel.

ELSTREE, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully situated on the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at Boreham Wood. At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the direction of Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was founded by the Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth century; the present structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The monuments are unimportant; but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the vestry screen of carved oak. The five-light E. window was presented by the pupil of a former rector, John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is a memorial. In the old churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the notorious robber and reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by Thurtell on Gill's Hill, 2½ miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried Martha Reay, whose life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to the Earl of Sandwich, and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, in 1779. There is excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a little W., in Aldenham parish. Some archæologists have thought that the Roman city _Sulloniacæ_ occupied (approximately) the site on which Elstree stands, and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but there is little doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely corresponds in position with the city mentioned in the _Itinerary_ of Antoninus.

_Epping Green_, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green (G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W.

ESSENDON is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the Valley of the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church, standing in the park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as early as the twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster stone. Note (1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) brass and effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and Liveries (d. 1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of Henry, Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the church by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke family (1635-55) were discovered. _Essendon Place_ (David Citroen, Esq.) is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and _Bedwell Park_ (C. G. Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo's many "Assumptions".

_Exnells_, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.

_Fanham Hall_ is 1 mile N.E. from Ware.

_Fisher's Green_ (½ mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet.

_Flamstead_ (2½ miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the river having formerly been called the "Verlam". The church is in the centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W. wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893; (4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument, with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen Elizabeth (d. 1604). At _Beechwood Park_, so called because of the many fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about 6 miles), is very picturesque.

_Flamstead Bury_ is 1 mile W. from Redbourn Station, M.R., and midway between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven's Gate.

_Flamstead End_ (1½ mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a considerable hamlet.

_Flaunden_ (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a village and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 1¼ mile S. The present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc., were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies, some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river (Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required.

_Folly, The_ (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea.

_Frithsden_ (or _Friesden_), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (_q.v._) ½ mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, Holly Bush Wood and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an hour's ramble.

FROGMORE (¾ mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church is modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July, and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between this hamlet and Park Street Station.

FURNEAUX PELHAM (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) has an interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the embattled W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in black-letter, the words "Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis"; upon the clock in the tower are the words: "Time flies. Mind your business." Note (1) piscina and sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport Chapel adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and effigy is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, representing two figures, _temp._ Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed) in chancel; (6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during restoration, one bearing the words: "Simonis de Furneaux Filius". The De Furneaux were a Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon de Furneaux was lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to the church is _Furneaux Pelham Hall_ (recently unoccupied), a fine Elizabethan mansion whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the civil wars.

GADDESDEN, GREAT (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a village on the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to Nettleden. The church is close to the river side, and immediately behind the _Cock and Bottle Inn_. It is an ancient structure of "Roman bricks" and flint (E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was rebuilt in 1862. There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few others of any interest. _Gaddesden Place_, in a park ½ mile E., is the seat of Rt. Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from designs by Wyatt, in 1774, in an Italian style.

GADDESDEN, LITTLE (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.), is a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. Pretty cottages and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. The church is Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family, Earls of Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady Frances, Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, Lord of the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of Bridgewater, a "transcendently virtuous lady" of "beauty so unparallel'd that 'tis as much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it surpasseth the skill of several of the most exquisite pencils ... to describe and not disparage it" (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. 1625); (6) Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was styled the Father of British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near Ashridge Park, 1¾ mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in 1832.

_Gaddesden Green_ is practically one with the above, the marble cross and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end of the Green.

_Gaddesden Row_ (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great Gaddesden.

GADE, river. (See Introduction.)

_Gallows Hill_ (½ mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet. The Booksellers' Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation Hospital for the two towns.

_Gannock Green_ is 2½ miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is ½ mile E.

_Gardener's End_ (3½ miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the parish of Ardeley.

_Garston_ is 1¼ mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&N.W.R.

_Gibraltar_, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R.