Chapter 5

BATTLE OF BARNET.--Of this engagement, so familiar by name, very little is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward IV., assisted in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, whither he had fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England with reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage, at Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces, and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist and confusion, and that this led to the death of Warwick. It is supposed that the "King Maker" fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute, brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot.

BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of "Barnet" is now almost merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter's Road, stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. _Lyonsdown_, an ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the Holy Trinity, erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M. Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed.

_Barwick Ford_ is on the river Rib, about 2½ miles N.W. from Hadham and 3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R.

_Bassett's Green_ (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being each about that distance.

_Batchworth_ is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&N.W.R., at the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (_q.v._).

_Batchworth Heath_, 1½ mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex border.

_Batlers Green_ (¾ mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a few scattered cottages and farms.

BAYFORD (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on rising ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in design, with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq., in 1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained glass. Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton (d. 1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in half-armour and the other a figure in plate-armour and ring-mail skirt, of which the age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the churchyard lies William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at Yarmouth, 1856).

BAYFORDBURY stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine cedars and pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the lord of the manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was originally erected by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here are the portraits of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller; the MS. of the first book of _Paradise Lost_, and a collection of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to America.

_Bedmond_, or _Bedmont_, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1 mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.

_Bedwell Plash_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage.

_Beeson's End_ is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden Common, and about 1¾ mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R.

_Bell Bar_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman's Park, and about 2½ miles N. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex).

_Bendish_ lies on high ground, 2½ miles S.W. from St. Paul's Walden (_q.v._). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W.

BENGEO (¾ mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the rivers Beane and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the borough of Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early Norman; there are very few churches of older foundation in Hertfordshire. It was restored at several times between 1884 and 1893. The bell in the wooden cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides the nave from the chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the apse. The monuments are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron Reay, is buried in the tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the hillside in 1855, is of Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by Tinworth in the reredos. The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the sandy warren-hills, so beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the Lea winding through the low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in the county.

BENGEO (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the above. Near by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for boys.

_Bennett's End_ is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock Green (_q.v._) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._).

BENNINGTON (4½ miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was once the residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1 mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of carved oak in the chancel; what was _once_ a holy water basin is in the porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross; (2) the memorial to the Cæsar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale's _Monasticon_; (4) Carved oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in 850. _Bennington Park_ (1¼ mile E.) is one of three deer parks in Hertfordshire which figured in _Domesday Book_.

BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in 1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R., dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find a castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W., but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black Prince was a visitor here during his father's reign. The Church of St. Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary's, Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that called "St. John's Chantry" dates from about 1350. Among many other features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries; (2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass; (3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann Cowper, the poet's mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7) mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d. 1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.

The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly for this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as the making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church, to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house, in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called "Cowper's Well," may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics' Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet at _Berghamstedt_ in 697.

BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.), has a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It has a wooden belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but contains little of architectural or historical interest. There are, however, several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, born in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands the tall red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as it is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames. The tower has been called "Stratton's Folly".

_Bernard's Heath._ (See St. Albans.)

_Betlow_ is a lordship of Long Marston (_q.v._)

BISHOP'S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice, Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril, where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say 1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of ten fine bells. Chauncy's book has an interesting paragraph about this church. "Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist; to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, _viz._, to the two former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars, and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed; but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the Settlement thereof cost much Money." Chancel and nave are separated by a screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), "a maid of honour in ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory". There is also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him, and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the finest old inns in Herts.

BOREHAM WOOD (1¼ mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather prettily situated hamlet.

_Bourne End_, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R., contains little more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the Grand Junction Canal.

BOVINGDON (2½ miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large village, built on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village being in the depression between them. The church dates from the end of the eleventh century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with pinnacled W. tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the tower, dating from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) brasses to the Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces of a Roman encampment and villa are shown on inquiry at a spot near the village.

_Bowman's Green_ (¼ mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the high road from Barnet to St. Albans.

BOXMOOR is a village about 1½ mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead. The Grand Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From the station, L.&N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. Many Roman remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly some remains of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of Diocletian. The church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was planned by Mr. Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There was an earlier structure on the same site. Private residences are increasing so rapidly that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel Hempstead.

_Boydon's Hill_ adjoins the village of Aldenham.

_Bragbury End_ (1¼ mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet on the Great North Road.

BRAMFIELD OR BRAINTFIELD (3½ miles N.W. from Hertford Station, G.N.R.) is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the site of an earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in 1840, and the church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of Westminster that Thomas Becket held the living here as his first charge; a pond near the church is called "Becket's Pond". _Queen Hoo Hall_, N.W. from the village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an Elizabethan residence, and gave the title to a romance partly written by Sir Walter Scott. The neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may be taken either N.E. to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park.

_Brandley Hill_ is 1 mile N.W. from Aston.

BRAUGHING has a station ¾ mile S.W. from the town, on the Buntingford Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the "Brachinges" of _Domesday Book_, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets of which the village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the S.W. slope of a hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of the Roman Ermine Street and the road from Bishop's Stortford to Baldock. There was formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; also an annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen; (2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font outside, near the tower. At _Cockhampstead_ (1½ mile E. from the church) was once an Augustinian priory.

_Breachwood Green_ (about 3½ miles N.E. from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R., and 1 mile S. from King's Walden Church) is a village on high ground rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green.

BRENT PELHAM (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from Buntingford) is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham because, as tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by fire during the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days of Norden (_circa_ 1548-1626). The church--near which the old stocks may still be seen--is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in Herts. It is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have been the subject of diverse interpretations. _Pelham Hall_ (E. E. Barclay, Esq.), "a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near the Church," was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several memorials in the church.

_Brickendon_ is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood.

BRICKET WOOD is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and Watford; it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive wood and common, crossed by L.&N.W.R. The station is ½ mile from the "wood," which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. The district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist.

_Broadfield_ (2¼ miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered, on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in 1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth century.

_Broadwater_ is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage, Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (1¼ mile S.).

_Broadway_ (1½ mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border.

_Bromley_ (1½ mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.

_Broomin Green_ (¾ mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet near the railway and ½ mile from the Six Hills. (See Stevenage.)

BROXBOURNE, a large village near the river Lea and New River, is a favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground overlooking the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from early in the fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir William Say, "in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522"; his tomb is in the chancel. The church was restored in 1857; the roof is of fine oak panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early Norman. There are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (_circa_ 1470); to another priest in robes (_circa_ 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace bearer to Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife (d. 1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies of Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms in centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to Hoddesdon, by way of "Admiral's Walk," or beside the Lea past the grounds of the Crown Hotel. _Broxbournebury_ (Major G. R. B. Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the county.

BUCKLAND (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has an E.E. church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at the E. end of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the lady-chapel. The font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a roughly hewn mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the chancel was opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have been connected with a confessional, as a coloured figure of the Virgin was discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as purely mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the church (d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony (d. 1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior was restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881.

_Buck's Hill_ (2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 1¼ mile N.E. at Chipperfield (_q.v._).

BULBOURNE, river. (See Introduction.)

_Bull's Green_ is 2¼ miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.

_Bull's Mill_ is 2½ miles N. from Hertford.

BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St. Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (_q.v._). An old brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward (see Aspenden); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in 1684. "This town," wrote Chauncy, "is of small antiquity, for there is no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it before Anno. 21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d." At the N. end of High Street is the old pound. _Corney Bury_ (½ mile N.) is a fine old manor house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn.

_Burnham Green_ is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.

_Bury Green_ (1½ mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet near Theobald's Park; also

_Bury Green_, a hamlet 2½ miles W. from Bishop's Stortford.

_Bury Hill and Bury Mill._ (See Hemel Hempstead.)

_Bury Stede._ (See Hexton.)

_Bush Barrow_ is 1¼ mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway between the village and the Icknield Way.