Part 9

=144. Allowance for Finishing Hardware.=—Architects are constantly called on to prepare preliminary estimates on proposed buildings, to assist clients to determine whether they can afford to build. For this purpose, the architect possesses an approximate knowledge of the cost of excavation, masonry, woodwork, etc., so that the necessary expenditure may be computed with a fair degree of accuracy. Builders’ hardware, however, does not readily admit of accurate preliminary estimating, and in many cases the architect merely specifies the sum to be expended for finishing hardware, stating that selections are to be made by himself or his client later, as the work progresses. This system is found in many instances to be satisfactory to all—architect, client, and builder.

The cost of the hardware usually bears a fairly constant ratio to the total cost of various types of buildings. The following figures, which are based on experience, indicate the range in this ratio under ordinary conditions. This schedule gives the ratio of cost of finishing hardware to the total cost of the building, land excluded.

TYPE OF BUILDING PER CENT.

Hotels, large 1.00 to 1.5 Hotels, small 1.50 to 2.0 Apartment houses 1.50 to 2.0 Office buildings 1.00 to 2.0 Office buildings, fireproof .50 to 1.5 Public buildings 1.50 to 2.0 Libraries .75 to 1.5 Hospitals .50 to 1.0 Residences, city 1.50 to 3.0 Residences, country 2.00 to 4.0

=145. Taking Off Hardware.=—The compilation of the estimate schedule of finishing hardware for a building must be made from the architect’s plans and specifications. Therefore, where possible, this work should be done by a hardware expert or salesman, or by some person who has the ability to read drawings easily and accurately and who is capable of exercising thoroughness in every detail of the work. The first step should be to study the specifications relating to the general work, and especially that portion relating to hardware and carpenter work, to see whether the latter embodies facts that affect the hardware. If such is the case, notes should be made of the fact, and in many cases, by following this rule, miscellaneous information can be gathered that will be invaluable to the contractor and will prevent much doubt as to requirements. The drawings should then be examined, to gain familiarity with the building, the arrangement of the interior, and other details. Having thus acquired a general understanding of the whole subject, the compilation of the quantities may begin.

=146.= The list of hardware should be compiled in a systematic manner, beginning at a definite point in the building and progressing through the several rooms and floors in a definite order. This will insure the inclusion of every part of the building and the careful consideration of every opening or other place where hardware is required. For example, in the case of a residence, it is customary to commence at the front entrance, including the front and vestibule doors, passing thence to the hall, taking each room on the first floor in due order, passing to the second floor and taking each room on it in like order, and so on until each floor is covered. The attic and basement are usually left until last, because they require a simpler class of goods. The same general system can be followed in the case of hotels, office buildings, apartment houses, etc., the essential point being that an orderly method be followed. The rooms should always be taken in natural sequence, and all openings of similar character totaled and again counted on the drawing, so that the chances of omission are minimized.

=147.= In the case of doors, it is necessary to make note of the size and thickness, the hand, and the bevel, or rabbet, as required, using in all cases three butts on all exterior doors, and also three butts on all interior doors 7 feet or more high. The size of the butts should in all instances be sufficient to cause the door to clear the trim. The width of stiles and the general construction of the doors should be noted, paying particular attention to the front-entrance doors, as architects sometimes design these regardless of the hardware that is to be used on them. Frequently, a careful scaling and scrutinizing of elaborately designed doors will show a shelf effect returning back to the lock stile, covering nearly half its width, just about where the lock should be placed. Such defects can be remedied easily, if observed in time, by directing the architect’s attention to them.

In the case of sliding-doors, it should be noted whether they are single or double, what is to be the character of the hanger, or rail, and the length of the run, and whether the door has a flat or a half-round astragal. The width of the stile and the size of the friction strip should also be noted, so that the hardware will not conflict with the woodwork, molding, etc., as, where necessary, special backsets can be procured on sliding-door locks to overcome this trouble.

Where double-acting doors are shown, always take note of the thickness, width, and height, also of the width of the lock stile and the height of the bottom rail, so that, if push plates or kick plates are required, the suitable dimensions for them can readily be estimated. The dead locks for these doors should be ordered with oval fronts for single doors and oval fronts and strikes for double doors, to allow for neat fitting to the rounded edge of the doors. Where kick plates are required for double doors of this character, flush bolts should be mortised into the edge of the door, so that the lower bolt will not interfere with the kick plates.

=148.= In stating the information for windows, full details are needed as to whether they are single- or double-hung, French casement, stationary, or ordinary casement. Double-hung windows 20 inches or less in width require only one sash lift. Extra-wide windows, such as those over 36 inches, should have either bar lifts or two extra-heavy hook sash lifts. The window stops should be studied in detail, so as to estimate the number of screws that will be required for each window. In the case of French windows, it is well to determine the height, the width of the stile, whether the joints are rabbeted, beveled, or flat, the hand, and whether the windows swing in or out; detail cross-sections through head-jambs, casing, and lock stiles should also be procured if possible. In casement sash, the pivoting should be noted, so as to determine whether it is vertical or horizontal; the swing should also be observed, and if the sash are to be hinged, determine whether the hinges should be placed at the top, the bottom, or the sides. As in the consideration of doors, the thicknesses and sizes of all casements should always be noted. Sections through the jambs, trim, and stiles should be taken at the points where the hardware is to be applied.

=149.= In order to determine the kind and length of the lifters to be used on the transoms, it is necessary to note the distance from the floor to the center of each transom, also whether they are to be pivoted or hinged from the bottom or the top, and how they are to swing. The cross-section through side jambs and casings should always be ascertained, in order to see that the hardware will be suitable to meet the conditions of the trim.

=150.= It is necessary to learn all details of the pantry, including the thickness and height of doors, whether they are double or single, and the number of each kind. Note all drawers; those under 20 inches in width require only one pull. The details of the flour bins should be examined to determine whether they are to be hinged at the bottom and are to tilt, or whether they are to be curved on plan and are to be hinged at the side, as each condition requires different hardware.

=151.= Where unavoidable interferences are discovered, or where the plans and specifications are obscure or defective, a note of the facts should be made, and when all such matters have been collected, they should be submitted to the architect for his decision as a basis for final determination.

=152. Application of Hardware.=—Owing to the fact that hardware has become more intricate in its manufacture and therefore more complicated in its construction, it is found that the proper amount of intelligence is not always exercised in its application. Frequently it is applied so carelessly that the hardware practically loses its most essential features. In the case of mortise-lock sets, all of the better grades are made with easy springs, so that the door will close gently and surely. However, this one feature alone is sometimes obliterated by careless application. The trouble in this direction is principally caused by the carpenter fitting the lock into the door untrue, and then screwing the escutcheons to the doors out of plumb and alinement. This causes the knob shanks, when rotated, to bind, or stick, in the sleeve, or collar, of the escutcheon, thereby holding back the latch bolt after the latch is withdrawn into the lock case. It is also found that proper adjustment is seldom given to the knobs and spindles passing through the escutcheons. In many cases when the hardware is applied carelessly, the owner, not knowing the real cause of the trouble, condemns the best hardware as being cheap and unsatisfactory.

In the application of cylinder locks for either front doors or office doors, it is found that a great amount of inexperience is shown by the average mechanic. In some cases, the locks are inverted, with the cylinder below the knobs, when it is designed to be above; also, sometimes, in reversing a front-door lock with night work, good judgment is not always used.

=153.= Such troubles as those just described can be easily overcome, and if the methods of applying hardware that follow are strictly adhered to, satisfactory operation will be assured.

Reversing the ordinary mortise, or rim, lock requires no special ability on the part of the workman, as the operation consists of merely taking off the cap and turning over the latch bolt. Where, however, a mortise lock is to be applied, care must be exercised so that it will work properly. First fit the lock into the door at the proper height from the floor, making the mortise large enough for the lock to enter easily. Bore the holes for the knob and the key, and insert the screws in the lock face and drive them home. Now take the escutcheons, or roses, and knobs and apply them to the door, carefully adjusting the knobs and spindles so that there is only slight play in the length. Then true up both escutcheons, by holding one with the thumb and the other with the fingers. When this much is accomplished, turn the knobs right and left to see whether they work properly; if they bind in the collar, adjust the escutcheons a trifle, vertically or horizontally, until the knobs rotate back to the original position in both directions without binding. By using a scratch awl and punch carefully, the exact center of each screw hole may be located, and by holding the awl perfectly true the screws will be started true. The escutcheons may now be released and the screws driven home. If this method is carefully followed, workmen will find that the latch bolt will work properly in almost every case. Always try the knob, when the application is completed, by rotating both to the right and to the left, and if found to bind, always make the proper adjustment before leaving the work.

=154.= In fitting strikes to the jambs, it is suggested that the workman locate them as low as possible, to conform to the locks, leaving the margin in the strike below the lock bolts. Doors in new buildings are liable to sag slightly, and if proper allowance is not made, the strikes may have to be readjusted, sometimes even before the contract is completed.

It is also necessary for the carpenter or superintendent to caution the painters not to paint or varnish any hardware, especially the lock faces, as this will also retard the operation of the latch bolt. As previously stated, the hardware should be fitted to the work and then replaced in the original packages, so as to protect it from abuse and damage, applying it permanently only after the painting is completed.

=155.= In applying cylinder, or front-door, locks, the conditions are still more difficult to overcome. When reversing cylinder locks that have swivel spindles, unscrew the cap and reverse the latch bolt; also, reverse the hubs, that is, the parts of the lock through which the spindles pass. Cylinder locks should always be mortised into the door at the proper height from the floor, and the holes for the cylinders and knob spindles then made. Insert the lock into the mortise, but do not put screws into the face; then apply the escutcheons and adjust the knob, taking care that the swivel of the spindle centers at the joint in the split hub. Now proceed to screw in the cylinder to its full extent, so that the cylinder collar is held rigidly between the cylinder and the escutcheon, and the cylinder is perfectly vertical. Then set the cylinder adjusting screw, and insert the wooden screws in lock face and drive them home with the screwdriver. Hold and adjust the escutcheon so that the knob will rotate back and forth automatically without friction, starting the screw holes with an awl. If the doors are made of hardwood, an automatic drill will have to be used to bore the screw holes. In such a case, follow the directions just given regarding escutcheons; then start the holes with a scratch awl while still holding the escutcheons, and enlarge the holes with the drill. Screws that are off center, when driven home into the countersinking, will surely draw the escutcheon so that the knobs will bind and thus destroy the most desirable feature of the lock.

=156.= Mechanics will find that the better the grade of the hardware, the more care must be taken in its application. Hardware for fine buildings is generally furnished with high, or bracket-bearing, collars on escutcheons and screwless knobs for adjustment without washers. These are fitted and turned carefully, so that there is very little play between knob shanks and collars, and for this reason they bind more readily when improperly applied. The mechanic should try the lock in every possible way before leaving the work. He should set the stop in the lock face, to be sure that swivel spindles are adjusted properly, and also insert the key in the cylinder, to see whether it operates smoothly while operating both bolts.

SCHEDULES AND DRAWINGS FOR THE HARDWARE CONTRACTOR

=157. Hardware Schedules.=—The contractor for the hardware usually takes off his own bill of material from the general drawings and the specifications furnished by the architect. However, the architect will sometimes supply the hardware schedule and obtain prices for the same direct from the dealer, thus saving the owner the general contractor’s profit and insuring bids based on material of uniform character and quality. It is well, therefore, to give some thought to the preparation of the schedule, so as to insure a good classification and to avoid omissions.

In drafting a schedule of hardware required for a building, it must be compiled from a copy of the hardware specifications and a list of all openings, cabinets, etc. that has been taken from the drawings. The schedule should be subdivided primarily into building sections, such as _first floor_, _second floor_, etc. as headings. Under these headings, each opening or group of openings in each room or division should be listed. Under the name of each opening or series of openings should be grouped all the hardware required, itemizing each and every article necessary and stating the quantity, numbers, sizes, or dimensions, design, and finish.

Schedules thus prepared are readily priced for estimating, and such classification eliminates the possibilities of omissions. Besides, the order can be executed by the manufacturer in exact conformity with the instructions, the hardware for each opening can be combined in a separate package, and each package clearly labeled to indicate its contents and the room or opening to which it belongs. The following shows a typical form of schedule:

FIRST FLOOR

_One Pair of Entrance Doors_, 2' 8" × 7' 6" × 2¼" Rt.-Hd. rabbeted. 1 cylinder, front door, Set No. _____. Plain bronze metal. 1 push button, No. _______. Plain bronze metal. 2 extension flush bolts, Plain bronze metal. No. ______, ¹/₁₂", ¹/₁₈". 3 pair of butts, No. ______, 5" × 5". Plain bronze metal.

_One Pair of Sliding Doors_, _Hall to Parlor_, 2" astragal face, 1½" friction strip. 1 set of locks, No. ______, 3" backset. Plain bronze metal. 3 dozen countersunk screws and washers. Plain bronze metal. 2 sets of anti-friction, noiseless, parlor-door hangers and track, complete, No. _____.

_Pantry Cupboard._ 2 pair of doors, 1⅛"; 2 single doors, 1⅛". 1 tilt flour bin; 4 drawers (2 narrow). 6 pair of butts, No. _____, 2½" × 2½". Plain bronze plated. 1 pair of butts, No. _____, 3" × 2½". Plain bronze plated. 2 elbow catches, No. _____. Japanned. 4 cupboard turns, No._____. Plain bronze plated. 7 draw pulls, No._____. Plain bronze plated.

SECOND FLOOR

_Ten Doors_, 2' 8" × 7" × 1¾", 6 R. H., 4 L. H. transom, top-hung. 10 inside lock sets, No._____. Plain bronze metal. 15 pair of butts, No. ______, 4½" × 4½". Plain bronze plated. 10 pair of butts, No._____, 3" × 2½". Plain bronze plated. 10 transom lifts, No.______, ⁵/₁₆" × 4". Plain bronze plated. 10 wooden-base knobs, 2½" diameter.

DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS

10 sash fasts, No. ____. Plain bronze metal. 20 sash lifts, No. ____. Plain bronze metal. 10 sash sockets, No. ____. Plain bronze metal. 4 sash hooks, No. ____. Plain bronze metal. 10 dozen adjusting screws and washers. Plain bronze metal.

The foregoing schedule is merely intended as an example of a classified, brief, and at the same time comprehensive hardware schedule. A schedule of this kind shows, almost at a glance, the nature of the hardware to be supplied, and if prepared by the architect, should tend to procure bids based on uniform requirements.

=158. Detail Drawings for the Hardware Contractor.=—In some architects’ offices, it is the practice to provide, on a single detail sheet, cross-sections of every type of door stile in the building. The time required to make such a drawing is slight, while the results accomplished are most useful. Copies of this drawing are furnished to the contractors for the cabinet trim and to the hardware contractor, so that each of them will have identical information and that the work will assemble properly when the hardware is put in place.

Such drawings should show the dimensions of the transverse sections of the vertical stile, or lock stile for each door, also the overlapping, if any, of panel moldings, together with the shape of bevels, rabbets, astragals, and any other details affecting the size and location of locks, hinges, butts, etc. The hand of the doors is usually, and better, indicated on the floor plans. A further argument is that the character and dimensions are liable to be overlooked when arranging the paneling of doors; whereas, both should be considered. The use of narrow stiles, special rabbets, and astragals, shelf effects, friction strips, etc. is resorted to without sufficiently considering the disadvantages that result from the contracted space in which the lock and its trim must be placed. Where the items just mentioned are proposed, the architect should ascertain what locks are available and should provide space for those selected. Special locks are always expensive, while a cramped space precludes the best construction.

GLASS AND GLAZING

=159. Single- and Double-Thick Common Glass.=—In the manufacture of the ordinary window glass used in building construction, the glass is first blown in cylindrical form and then cut and flattened, after which it is reduced to salable sizes for shipment. Owing to this method of manufacture, the percentage of first-quality glass is small, the larger proportion of the product being second or third quality. All glass of this kind is wavy or uneven and also has a slight bow, or curve, to its length that is impossible to overcome when making. The only difference in the qualities of common glass is in the amount of the imperfections that it contains. These imperfections consist of bull’s-eyes, blisters, scratches, and streaks that distort objects seen through the glass.

The better grade of common glass is manufactured in what are called continuous tanks, which are heated by natural gas. This glass is put up in boxes containing 50 square feet. =Single-thick glass= runs from thirteen to fifteen lights to 1 inch of thickness, and =double thick= from eight to ten lights to the inch. Single-thick glass above 20 in. × 24 in. in size should not be used except for work of a speculative nature. The ability to distinguish single and double thick and the various qualities of glass can only be acquired by observation. In judging glass, it is well to remember that small lights free from defects or uneven surfaces may be obtained much more easily than large ones.

=160. Ground, or Sand-Blast Glass.=—Common or plate glass, the surface of which is made obscure by the process of grinding, is called =ground glass=. This treatment, however, does not injure the diffusing qualities of the glass.

The =sand-blast process= of treating glass produces results similar to grinding. As the name implies, sand is blown against the glass under high pressure and thus makes numerous small cuttings on its surface, producing the appearance of ground glass.

=161. Chipped Glass.=—The glass illustrated in Fig. 159 is called =chipped glass=, and is manufactured in the following manner: The glass is first given a coat of glue and is then placed in a heated receptacle; this process tends to contract and curl the glue, so that when it dislodges itself from the glass, the cohesion will draw or chip off particles of glass, leaving the surface uneven and showing a design similar to that on a frosted window light. Chipped glass can be procured in either the single or the double process (i. e., with a single or a double chipping); and these processes are adaptable to either sheet or plate glass, white or colored.

=162. Figured Rolled Glass.=—Glass known generally as =figured rolled glass= is manufactured for use in offices, public buildings, and private residences where a glass is required to intercept the vision and still diffuse the light. This glass has practically supplanted the varicolored cathedral glass previously used, because of its obscurity without reducing the quantity of light. Figured rolled glass is made in various artistic designs, several of which are illustrated in Fig. 160, and is ⅛ and ³/₁₆ inch in thickness. This glass is inexpensive; the prices range from 15 to 25 cents per square foot.