Part 8

=98. Shutter Rings.=—In Fig. 139 is shown a =shutter ring=. Rings should always be used on solid shutters to close them; the shutter being solid, furnishes in itself no edge which can be clasped in closing, which is not the case with slatted blinds. These shutter rings are tinned or galvanized to prevent rusting, although they may also be obtained japanned. A better type of shutter ring is that having an eye riveted to a plate, which in turn is attached to the shutter with several screws.

=99. Shutter Bolts.=—Bolts are used for securing both slatted and solid shutters, but are chiefly intended for the solid shutter, which is used for protection. Shutter bolts are made of wrought steel in various sizes, from 6 to 16 inches long, and are to be had either japanned or galvanized. While the same shutter bolts are used on slatted blinds for keeping the blinds in a closed position, they afford little protection, as they can usually be operated through the slats. Common types of shutter bolts are illustrated in Fig. 140. At (_a_) is shown the ordinary wrought-steel shutter bolt, while the one shown at (_b_) is practically the same bolt with a lock attachment at _a_.

=100. Shutter Workers.=—The =shutter worker= known as the _Mallory_ is an exceptionally good article for hanging shutters. The lower hinge is made in box form, enclosing the gear necessary to operate the blind; a square shaft connects this with a lever handle, or crank, fastened to the casing inside the building, thus allowing the user to operate the shutter from the inside without opening the sash or screen. The cog gearing in the lower hinge will hold the shutter in the closed, the open, or any desired intermediate position without the use of any other device.

=101. Turnbuckles.=—The device shown in Fig. 141 is known as a =turnbuckle=; it is employed for fastening shutters in an open position against a building. Turnbuckles are made of cast-iron or of wrought steel, and for use on either frame or brick buildings. They may be used in connection with all styles of hinges, and are generally employed on buildings that are exposed to exceedingly strong winds.

CABINET TRIM

=102. Hinge Butts and Hinges.=—For cabinetwork, small, light hinge butts are used. These may be obtained in either bronze or steel, with or without ball tips, and in various sizes. The steel butts of this type are more commonly used, as they can be procured in all finishes, but for high-grade work, bronze metal is always employed. The usual type of cabinet hinge butt is illustrated in Fig. 142.

A surface hinge is sometimes used in place of a butt, in order to eliminate the fitting to the woodwork that is necessary where butts are used.

=103. Cupboard Latches.=—A convenient fastening for cupboard doors, consisting of a pivoted latch actuated by a projecting knob, is shown in Fig. 143. This type of latch is furnished with two forms of strikes, one for application on the edge and the other for application on the surface of the jamb or door.

This figure shows a stock sample of this type of latch, but the student should carefully note that whenever possible such garish or gaudy ornament should always be avoided in all classes of hardware. Good taste is always better satisfied with simple and direct treatment as shown in Fig. 144; but where ornate styles are adopted, the character of the ornament should be artistically expressed as exemplified in Figs. 128, 134, 153, 155, 157, etc.

=104. Cupboard Catches.=—The =cupboard catch= differs from the cupboard latch just described, although it is intended for the same purpose. The usual cupboard catch consists of a spring bolt that is operated by a slide knob. It is made in various designs, sizes, and shapes, in both the rim and flush varieties. Figs. 144 and 145 show several types of cupboard catches.

=105. Cupboard Turn.=—There is a piece of hardware intended for the same purpose as the cupboard catch, known as the =cupboard turn=. It is operated by a rotating knob instead of the slide, and is considered the best rim article used for this purpose.

=106. Cupboard Buttons.=—The =cupboard button= is an old device, but is little used at the present time, except for the cheapest work. Various types of these buttons are illustrated in Fig. 146. They are made with or without plates, as shown, and may be had in either iron or brass.

=107. Elbow Catches.=—A convenient fastening that is in quite general use for the standing leaf of double doors is illustrated in Fig. 147, from which the operation may readily be understood. This device, which is commonly known as an =elbow catch=, fastens the doors automatically; it is easily operated in opening the doors, and thus does away with the old-style hook and eye. The strike of the catch should be placed beneath the shelf where possible, using the catch inverted.

=108. Bookcase Bolt.=—The =bookcase bolt=, shown in Fig. 148, is an automatic fastening device that is mortised into the soffit of cabinets or bookcases having double doors. It is arranged in such a position as to engage with the top of one door, and is operated by the act of closing the other door, which carries the lock, so that both doors are fastened or released by a single action.

=109. Lever Cupboard Catches.=—Another piece of hardware used for securing light doors, or leaves, such as are used in cupboards, bookcases, and wardrobes, is illustrated in Fig. 149. This fastening is very simple and convenient. It consists of a bar that is pivoted to a plate and extends through the door, its inner end being hooked to engage with a strike.

=110. Drawer Pulls.=—The =drawer pull= is a familiar article of cupboard hardware, the usual type being illustrated in Fig. 150. This article can be obtained in iron, steel, brass, or bronze, in various styles and shapes, and in all finishes. Drawer pulls with _label plates_ are extensively used. A type of this drawer pull is shown in Fig. 151.

=111. Drop Drawer Pulls.=—For cabinetwork, the =drop drawer pull=, as illustrated in Fig. 152 (_a_), is used almost entirely. The drop pull is made both plain and ornamented, examples of each style being shown in Figs. 152 (_a_) and (_b_) and 153.

=112. Cabinet Locks.=—The type of lock illustrated in Fig. 154 is used on cabinetwork of every description, and can be procured for all classes of construction. These locks are made in rim, flush, and mortise styles, with keys having either plain or ornamental bows.

=113. Cabinet Escutcheons.=—In order to form a finish and protect the woodwork near the keyhole, the =cabinet escutcheon plate= is used. These plates are made in various sizes and styles of ornamentation, some designs of which are illustrated in Fig. 155.

=114. Card Frames, or Label Plates.=—An article known as the =card frame=, or =label plate=, is used extensively to placard drawers or cupboards to designate their contents. These plates are made in various sizes, and may be procured in bronze and iron and in the usual patterns shown in Fig. 156.

=115. Hinge and Corner Plates.=—The =hinge= and =corner plate= is an article used solely for decorative purposes on cabinetwork. The variety of designs and sizes now available is such that special patterns are rarely necessary. These plates may be obtained from the hardware dealer in all of the usual metals and in all finishes.

DESIGN AND SPECIFICATION OF HARDWARE FOR BUILDINGS

HARDWARE OF SPECIAL DESIGN

=116. Proprietary Hardware.=—The manufacturers of hardware have assembled an extensive collection of standard designs in the various styles of ornament, from which fitting selections can be made for almost every use without danger of repetition and without fear that the design selected may become hackneyed by too general use. Therefore, before incurring the great expense entailed by the adoption of special designs, it is advisable that a careful examination of catalog designs be made. Where, however, it is decided to adopt some special design, the facilities of the manufacturer can be effectively utilized to secure the best results at the least cost and with the minimum amount of trouble to the architect or the owner.

Of all of the subordinate elements of interior decoration, there is none that offers a larger opportunity for effective results and for the exercise of personal taste than the metal work of the hardware for doors and windows, whether elaborate and costly, or simple and inexpensive. The knobs, plates, and hinges of a door compel attention by the prominence of their position. If they are inappropriate and unpleasing, they obtrude, while if artistic and in harmony with their surroundings, they attract and provide a finish unobtainable in other ways.

The impress of individuality marks all of the important work of the successful architect, and may be extended properly to the subordinate details of decoration, especially where it is essential that these harmonize with the general scheme. Hence, in some cases, the architect furnishes the designs for the hardware to correspond with the architectural treatment of the building. As, in the case of emblematic hardware, these individual designs involve the additional expense of special drawings, models, and patterns, the plan is seldom resorted to, except where the question of cost is subordinate to that of perfection of result.

=117.= For many years hardware has been generally regarded as an indifferent detail that could be safely left to the carpenter contractor to select and supply. Even when specified, it has been usually described in a very loose and vague manner, doubtless owing to the technical character of the information required and the difficulty entailed on a busy architect in obtaining and formulating it for use. Where, therefore, the conditions are such that an exact and carefully detailed hardware specification cannot be prepared, the only satisfactory plan is to exclude the finishing hardware from the specifications prepared for the building and reserve it for selection by the architect and the owner.

=118. Emblematic Hardware.=—Occasionally, it is found desirable to indicate the character or use of a building by introducing one or more appropriate emblems in the design or ornament of the hardware. This is especially true of structures for lodges, clubs, societies, and other organizations, in which case the emblems of regalia, badges, etc. are available for the motif of the design. In municipal, state, or government buildings, the coat of arms or public seal may be introduced in decorating the hardware, and in buildings for railroad companies, banks, etc., the monogram, seal, or name of the corporation is frequently reproduced.

In all instances, the device selected is usually introduced as the central ornament of the door knob. This ornament is also repeated on escutcheon and push plates, and generally on the larger pieces of metal work; and while it may constitute the sole feature of decoration, it usually has associated with it a border or other ornament.

The use of emblematic hardware involves the use of special designs and patterns, and thus entails a considerably greater cost than the use of standard patterns. In Fig. 157 are shown several standard ornamental designs, while in Fig. 158 are shown pieces of lock trim ornamented with heraldic, or emblematic, designs.

HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS

=119.= The methods of specifying builders’ hardware differ considerably. Some architects generalize and use the same form of specification for buildings of all classes, while others are more specific, and itemize all the hardware for the entire operation, giving, besides the description, the catalog number and finish.

The first method is not considered good practice, and, though it involves little work on the part of the architect, it rarely produces the best results. Thus, wherever possible, the specification should be complete and comprehensive, giving a full description of all the hardware in the building.

=120.= Formerly, builders’ hardware could only be obtained in a few styles, and there was not much choice regarding its physical construction and mechanical operation, so that its selection could be left to the contractor or builder. Specification, therefore, usually included little more than a mere statement that the necessary hardware should be furnished and that it should be of good quality.

In recent years, however, the revolution accomplished in the designing and making of builders’ hardware has elevated it to an important place in decorative art, and, simultaneously, the creating of new and higher mechanical grades has radically changed the requirements in specifications relating to this subject.

=121.= A few standard forms of hardware specifications that should secure good results will now be considered. For convenience of reference, these several forms are marked I, II, and III. The first two forms are probably as good general forms of hardware specifications as can be written, but, while they answer the purpose in some instances, they should not be used where it is intended to have the general contract include all the hardware, or where it is possible to prepare an itemized specification such as that given in Form III. The numbering of the paragraphs in these forms is continuous with this Section, but in practice they generally start with 1.

FORM I

(SEE GENERAL CONDITIONS)

=NOTE.=—Under the head of _General Conditions_ preceding all specifications furnished to contractors by the architect, a series of binding requirements, reservations, and stipulations are specifically stated, and it is most essential that the contractor carefully peruse them, as he is bound by them as well as by the clauses under the heading of Hardware Specifications.

=122. Rough Hardware.=—Provide all the rough hardware, such as nails, screws, sash weights, pulleys, chain or cord, anchors, screw bolts, and all other material in this line necessary for the completion of the operation.

=123. Finishing, or Builders’, Hardware.=—All fastenings and metal trimmings used on doors, windows, transoms, closets, cabinets, pantries, etc. will be furnished by the owner and delivered at the building in the quantities and at the times reasonably needed by the contractor, he to apply the same under the direction and to the satisfaction of the architect.

The contractor is to be responsible for all hardware after delivery and until the completion of the building. He shall hang all doors, properly fit all locks, etc., and return them to their original packages until after completion of the painting or finishing, when he shall place them permanently. All knobs shall be covered with Canton flannel, to protect them from injury, and all keys are to be cared for until the building is delivered to the owner. The contractor shall place all keys in their locks or deliver them to the architect with tags attached, indicating where they belong.

The contractor shall furnish the manufacturer or dealer furnishing the hardware with details of woodwork or information that may be necessary in order to understand the requirements and to harmonize the hardware with the cabinetwork, and, where interferences are discovered, to have them adjusted before the hardware is delivered.

FORM II

(SEE GENERAL CONDITIONS)

=124. Rough Hardware.=—Same as in Form I.

=125. Finishing, or Builders’, Hardware.=—The contractor shall include in his estimate the sum of _____ dollars ($____) for the purchase of the finishing hardware, which is to be selected by the architect or owner and charged to the contractor. If the hardware costs less than the stipulated amount, the difference shall be deducted from his contract price; if it costs more than herein contemplated, the owner will pay to the contractor the additional amount.

The above hardware is to include all fastenings and metal trimmings used on doors, windows, transoms, closets, cabinets, pantries, etc., and will be delivered at the building in the quantities and at the times reasonably required by the contractor, he to apply the same under the direction and to the satisfaction of the architect.

FORM III

(SEE GENERAL CONDITIONS)

=126. Front-Entrance Doors.=—Provide for the front-entrance doors, cylinder, mortise, front-door lock and three 5" × 5" loose-pin, ball-tip butts for each door; also flush extension bolts 12 inches and 24 inches long.

=127. Vestibule Doors.=—Provide for the vestibule doors, cylinder, vestibule latch, keyed similar to the front door, and three 5" × 5" loose-pin, ball-tip butts; also flush bolts, the same as specified for entrance doors.

128. SIDE-ENTRANCE AND REAR DOORS.—Provide for the side-entrance and rear doors, locks and butts the same as specified for the front-entrance doors. Exterior basement and kitchen doors to have 5-inch, three-bolt or 4¼-inch, three-tumbler lock and mortise bolt; also three 4½" × 4½" butts for each door.

=129. Sliding Doors.=—Provide for all sliding-doors, Coburn trolley hangers; double doors to have locks with astragal fronts, and single doors to have flat-front locks.

=130. Double-Acting Doors.=—Provide for the doors where indicated double-acting in the plans, Bommer spring hinges or floor pivots of suitable size; also push plates, door holders, dead lock, and kick plates.

=131. Miscellaneous Doors.=—Provide for all other doors on first floor, 4¼-inch mortise lock with metal knobs and combined escutcheons; also three 4" × 4" loose-pin, ball-tipped butts for each door.

=132. Doors on Second Floor.=—Provide for all the doors on the second floor, 4¼-inch mortise locks with metal knobs and combined escutcheons; chamber-entrance and bathroom doors to have in addition a mortise bolt. Also provide for these doors, three 4" × 4" loose-pin, ball-tipped butts for each door.

=133. Doors in Attic and Basement.=—Provide for the doors in attic and basement, 3½-inch mortise locks, pottery knobs, and escutcheons; also two 3½" × 3½" butts for each door.

=134. Transoms.=—All transoms throughout are to be hinged at the top or the bottom or pivoted (as indicated in the plans), and are to have ⁵/₁₆-inch transom lifts to extend to within 5 feet of the floor.

=135. Double-Hung Windows.=—The double-hung windows on the first floor are to have approved sash locks and two flush lifts; those on the second floor, in the attic, and in the basement are to have approved sash locks and two flush or hook lifts to each sash. All window stops are to be secured with flush adjusting stop-screws placed not more than 14 inches apart.

=136. Casement Windows and Hinged Sash.=—Provide for the casement in the lavatory and on the second floor, 3" × 3" tight-joint butts and suitable casement fasteners and adjusters. The basement sash are to be hinged at the top with wrought butts and are to have bolts and hooks and eyes to hold them open.

=137. French Windows.=—Provide for the French windows in the dining room, 4" × 4" butts, three to each window sash. Also provide for these windows, flush bolts, 12 inches and 24 inches on standing leaf, and mortise turnbuckles.[1]

[1] In place of the mortise turnbuckle any of the following hardware can be used: Casement fasts or locks; Cremorne bolts, locking top, bottom, and center; or, Espagnolette bars, either rim or mortise.

=138. Bookcases and China Closets.=—Provide for the doors of the bookcases and china closets, 3" × 3" ball-tip butts, two to each door; also locks and keyplates or mortise latches and knobs, and bolts for double doors. All drawers to have drop drawer pulls, two to each drawer over 20 inches wide.

=139. Pantries, Dressers, and Linen Closets.=—The doors of the pantries, dressers, and linen closets are to be provided with 3" × 3" butts, together with elbow catches or surface bolts for double doors. Also provide rim cupboard catches or mortise latches with knobs. All drawers over 20 inches wide are to have two drawer pulls. Flour bins are to be hinged at the side or at the bottom, so as to tilt, and are to be supplied with 3" × 3" wrought butts and bar pull or with large =T=-handled cupboard turn. Place in each closet one (or two) rows of brass-plated wire coat-and-hat hooks (or, bronze-plated cast coat-and-hat hooks) to extend around all sides; these hooks are to be placed not over 12 inches nor closer than 8 inches apart. Furnish rubber-tipped, wooden-base knobs for all doors.

=140. Quality and Finish.=—All of the above hardware is to be of Blank & Co.’s manufacture, except butts for interior doors, which are to be the Stanley Work product. All the hardware on the first floor, except kitchen and service portion, is to be plain, cast-bronze metal of the design known as ____, and ____ finish. The hardware of the second floor is to be of steel, in plain design and ____ finish. The hardware of the bathroom is to be of plain bronze metal, nickel-plated, while the basement, kitchen, and attic hardware is to be plain steel in ____ finish.

=141. Miscellaneous Hardware.=—The contractor shall furnish and apply all hardware necessary to complete the building, under the direction and subject to the approval of the architect.

=142.= The preceding specification is intended to meet the requirements of a residence, but may be changed so as to apply to other buildings by adding to the several items or by omitting some of them. In following the specifications just given, the specification writer should exercise great care in selecting the hardware required, using the best that can be obtained with the money to be expended. In all instances, the name, design, quality, and finish desired should be stipulated.

SELECTION, ESTIMATION, AND APPLICATION OF HARDWARE

=143.= No other material entering into the construction of a building will pay a larger return in satisfaction, comfort, and permanent economy for the time and care devoted to its selection than the finishing hardware. The range of choice and quality has become too great for the selection to be left to the general contractor under an omnibus specification, and the practice of according to it the benefit of careful and discriminating selection by the architect or client, or both in consultation, is rapidly becoming general. Hardware has become a factor of utmost importance in the interior decorative scheme of the modern building, and its selection demands at least the care accorded to other elements of interior decoration.

The method that should be employed in the selection and purchase of hardware depends primarily on the existing conditions. If the building is intended for the purpose of sale or renting, or if cheapness is the dominating factor, then a competitive method may be expedient; but if the client intends it for personal occupancy or for permanent ownership, then competitive bidding is sometimes not productive of the best results.

In all cases, a preliminary examination should be made of the makes and grades of the commercial hardware available, and the amount that it is desired to expend on this item should be decided on. The process of selection is greatly facilitated by the elimination of articles outside of the grades selected. When the maker’s grade of goods has been decided on, the next step is to select in detail the articles, designs, and finishes to be used in each room, floor, or division of the building, making such notes of the decisions so reached as will be convenient in framing the hardware specification, or schedule.