Part 16

Charges are usually made for each coat of paint put on, at a certain price per superficial yard and per coat.

Graining and marbling (imitations of wood and stone) and varnishing are rated at different prices from plain work.

Capitals and columns and other ornamental work that is difficult to measure should be enumerated, and a clear description of the amount of work on them should be given.

DATA ON PAINTING

=104. Quantities.=—One pound of pure lead-and-oil paint will cover from 2¾ to 3¼ square yards of wood for the first coat, and from 4½ to 6 square yards for each additional coat; on brickwork, it will cover about 1½ and 2 square yards, respectively. Colored paint will cover about one-third more surface than white paint.

Using prepared or ready-mixed paint, 1 gallon will cover from 250 to 300 square feet of wooden surface, two coats; for covering metallic surfaces, 1 gallon will be sufficient for from 300 to 400 square feet, one coat. The weight per gallon of pure mixed paints varies considerably, but, on an average, may be taken at about 16 pounds.

Prepared shingle stains will cover about 200 square feet of surface per gallon if applied with a brush; or, this quantity will be sufficient for dipping about 500 shingles. Rough-sawed shingles will require about 50 per cent. more stain than smooth ones.

One pound of cold-water paint, for the first coat, will cover from 50 to 75 square feet of wood, according to the surface condition, and about 40 square feet of brick and stone.

One gallon of liquid pigment filler, hard-oil finish, or varnish will generally cover from 350 to 450 square feet of surface for the first coat, according to the nature of the wood and the finish, and from 450 to 550 square feet for the second and subsequent coats. One pound of paste wooden filler will cover about 40 square feet.

One gallon of varnish weighs from 8 to 9 pounds; turpentine, about 7 pounds; and boiled or raw linseed oil, about 7¾ pounds.

For puttying, about 5 pounds of putty will be sufficient for 100 square yards of interior and exterior work.

For sizing, about ½ pound of glue is used to 1 gallon of water.

For mixing paints, the figures given in Table XIV represent the average proportions of materials required for each 100 pounds of lead.

TABLE XIV

QUANTITIES OF MATERIALS ========+======+=========+===========+========== Coat | Lead | Raw Oil |Japan Drier|Turpentine |Pounds| Gallons | Gallon | Gallons --------+------+---------+-----------+---------- Priming | 100 | 7 | ½ | -- Second | 100 | 4 | -- | 2 Third | 100 | 6½-7 | -- | ½ ========+======+=========+===========+==========

The drier is omitted in the second and succeeding coats, unless the work is to be dried very rapidly, as it is considered to be injurious to the durability of the paint.

On outside work, boiled oil is generally used in about the proportion of 1 gallon to 2 gallons of raw oil.

=105. Care in Painting.=—In painting woodwork, putty should not be used until after the first coat of paint or varnish has been applied. There are two reasons for this. In the first place, if putty is used on dry wood, the wood is liable to absorb the oil from the putty and leave it in a dry and crumbly condition. Then, also, the oil from the putty soaking into the wood will stain the wood dark, and this stain may be seen through varnish. For this latter reason, putty should be put in cracks and holes with a putty knife and not with the fingers, as otherwise the oil from the putty will get over the fingers and thus be transferred to the woodwork, where it will show as a dark stain if the wood is varnished.

Due care should also be taken in painting woodwork that has knots in it, as otherwise the turpentine in the knot will be sure to discolor the paint in course of time. To avoid this, the knots should be coated, or _killed_, with a coat of shellac before the first coat of paint is applied. The shellac prevents the turpentine in the knot from soaking through and discoloring the paint.

=106. Cost of Painting.=—The cost of applying paint on general interior and exterior work will average about twice the cost of the materials, while for very plain work, done in one color, the cost may be taken at about 1½ times that of the materials. For stippling, the cost will be about the same as for two coats of paint. For varnishing, the cost of labor will be about 1½ times the price of the varnish.

The following figures represent fair average prices, for various classes of work, and have been adopted by the Builders’ Exchange of a large eastern city:

COST PER SQUARE YARD INTERIOR WORK CENTS

1 coat of paint, including shellacking knots 10 2 coats of paint, including puttying 20 3 coats of paint, including puttying 25 to 30 1 coat of shellac 15 Walls, 1 coat of size, 2 coats of paint 20 Walls, 1 coat of size, 3 coats of paint, stippled 30

_Hardwood Finish_ 1 coat of paste filler, 1 coat of varnish 25 1 coat of paste filler, 2 coats of varnish 40 1 coat of paste filler, 3 coats of varnish 50 1 coat of paste filler, 3 coats of varnish, rubbed down to dull finish 60 to 75

_Finish on Soft Woods_ 1 coat of liquid filler, 1 coat of varnish 20 1 coat of liquid filler, 2 coats of varnish 30 1 coat of liquid filler, 3 coats of varnish, rubbed 50 Floors: filling, shellacking, varnishing, or waxing, 2 coats (or 4 coats in all) 40

_Tinting Walls (Cold-Water Paint)_ Tinting, 50 yards or less, including sizing 12 Tinting, 50 yards or more, including sizing 10

=107.= In =staining= hardwoods with open grain, such as oak, chestnut, ash, etc., it is customary, when a varnished surface is required, to stain the paste filler with oil colors so as to secure the desired tint and then finish with three or four coats of varnish. The staining adds about 5 cents per square yard to the cost of varnishing.

When it is desired to color the silver grain, or medullary rays, revealed in quarter-sawed material, the usual plan is first to stain the material with an oil or an aniline stain that permanently affects only the silver grain. Afterwards, the paste filler colored to the desired tint is applied, and this, on entering and closing the open grain, buries the first stain, but does not cover that over the medullary rays. This, as in the previous method of staining, adds about 5 cents a square yard to the cost of varnishing.

Another method of treating oak, chestnut, and ash is to stain the wood to the desired shade with an oil stain of the proper tint. This stain is applied with cheesecloth to an even surface, and, after puttying, one coat of flat varnish is applied. This process costs about 25 cents per square yard.

For silver-gray effects, the addition of aluminum bronze to the oil stain will give a pleasing effect. This costs about 28 cents per square yard.

When it is desired to have the open grain show a white effect, the usual method is to use a paste filler with zinc white added and then a coat of flat varnish. This costs about 30 cents per square yard.

Oak, chestnut, and ash maybe colored by fuming (to give the effect of age) with the vapors of ammonia released in a closed box. This effect is also produced by several patented processes. It costs about 30 cents per square yard.

EXTERIOR PAINTING COST PER SQUARE YARD _Woodwork_ CENTS 1 coat of paint 10 2 coats of paint, including puttying 18 3 coats of paint, including puttying 25 to 30

_Common and Pressed Brickwork_ 1 coat of paint 15 2 coats of paint 25 3 coats of paint 35 Penciling and lining joints on painted brickwork 05 Penciling joints on pressed, unpainted brickwork 10

_Sanding_ 2 coats of paint, 1 coat of sand 28 3 coats of paint, 1 coat of sand 35

_Miscellaneous_ COST Dipping shingles, per 1,000 $3.00 Additional coat, per 1,000 shingles .50 Brush-coating shingles, per square yard .15 Blinds, per square foot, 1 coat, painted on both sides .04 Additional coat for blinds, per square foot .04 Iron fence, per square foot, 1 coat, painted on both sides .04 Tin roof, per square yard, 1 coat .05 Additional coat for tin roof, per square yard .04

=NOTE.=—For painting sand-lime bricks, double the prices given for common and pressed brickwork.

PAPERING

=108. Papering= is usually figured per roll, put on the wall. The paper is generally 18 inches wide, and is in 8-yard rolls; double rolls are 16 yards. On account of waste in matching, etc., it is difficult to estimate very closely the number of rolls required, but an approximate result may be obtained as follows: Divide the perimeter of the room by 1½ (the width of paper in feet); the result will be the number of strips. Find the number of strips that can be cut from a roll, and divide the first result by the second; the quotient will be the number of rolls required. No openings less than 20 square feet in area should be deducted, in order to compensate for cutting and fitting at such places. About 15 per cent. should be added to the area to allow for waste. The border, whether wide or narrow, is generally figured as one roll of paper.

The cost of paper is extremely variable, ranging from 15 cents to $6 per roll; the average cost is probably 25 to 50 cents per roll, for ordinary houses. Paper hanging costs from 10 cents to $1 per roll, according to quality, with strips butted.

GLAZING

=109.= =Glazing= was formerly included in the painter’s contract, but as it is now customary and more convenient to oil or paint and glaze the sash at the mill when they are made, the glazing is included in the joinery specifications, and is not considered as a separate subdivision of estimating work.

In measuring glass, take the dimensions between rabbets each way when the panes are rectangular; if irregular or circular in form, take the extreme dimensions, and consider the panes rectangular. It costs about 1½ cents per square foot of light to glaze a window. This price includes the cost of putty.

Polished plate glass is used extensively for store-front windows and also for glazing window sash in fine work. There are three qualities: French plate, and two grades of American plate, which may be obtained in various sizes up to 8 feet wide and 14 feet long. The cost of plate glass is estimated by the aid of a price list that gives the cost of the various sizes. This list is furnished by dealers and remains the same from year to year; it is known as the _standard list_. The fluctuations are provided for by means of a discount, which is the same for all sizes of glass.

TABLE XV

PANES OF WINDOW GLASS PER BOX ========+======+=========+======+=========+======+=========+===== |Panes | |Panes | |Panes | |Panes Size | in | Size | in | Size | in | Size | in Inches | Box | Inches | Box | Inches | Box | Inches | Box --------+------+---------+------+---------+------+---------+----- 6 × 8 | 150 | 16 × 22 | 21 | 22 × 28 | 12 | 26 × 58 | 5 7 × 9 | 115 | 16 × 24 | 15 | 22 × 30 | 11 | 28 × 28 | 9 8 × 10 | 90 | 16 × 34 | 13 | 22 × 32 | 10 | 28 × 30 | 9 8 × 12 | 75 | 16 × 38 | 12 | 22 × 34 | 10 | 28 × 42 | 6 9 × 11 | 73 | 16 × 44 | 10 | 22 × 36 | 9 | 28 × 52 | 5 9 × 12 | 67 | 18 × 20 | 20 | 22 × 38 | 9 | 30 × 30 | 8 9 × 13 | 62 | 18 × 22 | 18 | 22 × 48 | 7 | 30 × 40 | 6 10 × 12 | 60 | 18 × 24 | 17 | 22 × 52 | 6 | 30 × 50 | 5 10 × 14 | 52 | 18 × 26 | 16 | 24 × 24 | 12 | 30 × 54 | 4 10 × 16 | 45 | 18 × 32 | 13 | 24 × 26 | 12 | 32 × 32 | 7 10 × 18 | 40 | 18 × 36 | 11 | 24 × 28 | 11 | 32 × 36 | 6 12 × 14 | 43 | 18 × 42 | 10 | 24 × 30 | 10 | 32 × 48 | 5 12 × 16 | 38 | 18 × 52 | 8 | 24 × 32 | 10 | 32 × 52 | 4 12 × 18 | 34 | 20 × 20 | 18 | 24 × 34 | 9 | 32 × 58 | 4 12 × 20 | 30 | 20 × 22 | 16 | 24 × 36 | 9 | 32 × 62 | 4 12 × 22 | 27 | 20 × 24 | 15 | 24 × 38 | 8 | 34 × 34 | 6 12 × 24 | 25 | 20 × 26 | 14 | 24 × 40 | 8 | 34 × 36 | 6 14 × 16 | 32 | 20 × 28 | 13 | 24 × 42 | 7 | 34 × 46 | 5 14 × 18 | 29 | 20 × 30 | 12 | 24 × 44 | 7 | 34 × 50 | 4 14 × 20 | 26 | 20 × 34 | 11 | 24 × 46 | 7 | 34 × 56 | 4 14 × 22 | 24 | 20 × 36 | 10 | 24 × 52 | 6 | 36 × 36 | 6 14 × 24 | 22 | 20 × 38 | 10 | 24 × 60 | 5 | 36 × 44 | 5 14 × 26 | 20 | 20 × 40 | 9 | 26 × 26 | 11 | 36 × 48 | 4 14 × 36 | 14 | 20 × 52 | 7 | 26 × 28 | 10 | 36 × 54 | 4 14 × 40 | 13 | 22 × 22 | 15 | 26 × 32 | 9 | 36 × 58 | 3 16 × 18 | 25 | 22 × 24 | 14 | 26 × 44 | 6 | 36 × 64 | 3 16 × 20 | 23 | 22 × 26 | 13 | 26 × 52 | 5 | 40 × 60 | 3 ========+======+=========+======+=========+======+=========+=====

When stained or art glass is used, the specifications generally limit the cost, as the glass is made according to the architect’s designs or to approved designs submitted by manufacturers. The price depends more on the amount of lead or copper used than on the cost of the glass itself, and therefore no very close estimate can be made. The following figures are only approximate:

COST PER SQUARE FOOT Clear glass $1 to $3 Opalescent glass $1 to $3 Plate glass $2 to $4 Cathedral glass $3 to $5 Favrille glass About $8

Ordinary window, or sheet, glass is sold by the box, which contains, as nearly as possible, 50 square feet, whatever the size of the glass may be. There are two qualities of ordinary glass, known as _single_ and _double thick_, the former being about ¹/₁₆ inch thick, and the latter nearly ⅛ inch. Single-thick glass should never be used in panes over 24 in. × 24 in. in size. Table XV gives the number of panes of window glass in one box of 50 square feet.

ESTIMATING AND CALCULATING QUANTITIES

(PART 2)

EXAMPLE IN ESTIMATING

=1.= Following the rules and suggestions already given in _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, the estimate for a house will be made as a practical example, the drawings on which it is based being shown in the accompanying plates. In making the estimate, the various portions of the work are taken in the order in which they naturally occur in the erection of the building, following, as closely as possible, the estimating schedule heretofore given.

As far as possible, the figures given in the example should be checked up by taking off quantities and performing all the indicated work. It is only by actually making the calculations that any practical benefit from the work will be derived. _No two estimators, working separately, will arrive at exactly the same results; therefore, in following the calculations in this example, some discrepancies between the figures of the person performing the estimating and the ones given will no doubt be found._ These discrepancies should not be important ones, however, and by carefully studying the methods followed, results substantially the same as those computed here should be obtained.

EXCAVATION

=2.= In calculating the cubic yards of earth excavated for the cellar, all measurements are taken from the foundation plan and the sections. The plan is blocked out as shown in the accompanying Cellar Plan, and the area of each block found; then, by multiplying the sum of these partial areas by the depth of the cellar, the cubic contents is determined. The trenches for the foundation walls of porches and for the footings of cellar walls are calculated separately, as also are the excavations for piers, drains, cesspools, area, etc.

CELLAR EXCAVATION

SQUARE CUBIC _Quantities_ FEET FEET

Block _A_, 23' 4" × 16' 4" 381.0 Block _B_, 14' 6" × 20' 10" 302.0 Deduct 4" × 3' 0" 1.0 Add for projection of wall, (13' 6" + 7') ÷ 2 × 3' = 30.8 ---- 331.8 Block _C_, 27' 6" × 17' 5" 479.0 Deduct for breaks in wall, 1' 7" × 6' 8" and 2' 6" × 3' 18.0 ---- 461.0 Block _D_, 26' 6" × 10' 5½" 277.2 Block _E_, 16' 8" × 11' 6½" 192.4 Deduct for breaks in wall, 6' 6" × 1' 11" and 3' × 5" 13.7 ----- 178.7 [2]Block _F_, 9' 10" × 9' 7½" ÷ 2 47.3 [3]Block _G_, 14' × 14' × .7854 ÷ 2 77.0 Deduct for portion of semicircular part, included in _F_, 12" × 14' approximately 14.0 ---- 63.0 ------- Total area of excavation 1,740.0 Contents, 1,740 sq. ft. × 6.5 ft. (depth) 11,311.0

[2] The block _F_ is taken as a triangle. The block _G_ is a semicircle, and its area is found, as will be noticed, by finding the area of a circle and dividing it by 2.

[3] The block _F_ is taken as a triangle. The block _G_ is a semicircle, and its area is found, as will be noticed, by finding the area of a circle and dividing it by 2.

EXCAVATION FOR WALL FOOTINGS[4] SQUARE CUBIC _Quantities_ FEET FEET _a b_, 26' × 2' 6" 65.0 _b c_, 5' 6" × 3' 16.5 _c d_, 9' 9" × 2' 6" 24.4 _d e_, 17' 6" × 2' 6" 43.7 _e f_, 27' 4" × 2' 6" 68.3 _f g_, 9' 2" × 3' 8" 33.6 _g h_, 21' × 2' 6" 52.5 _i j_, 27' 7" × 2' 6" 69.0 _j a_, 31' × 2' 6" 77.5 _k l_, 20' 2" × 2' 6" 50.4 Chimney, 12' 6" × 4' (approximately) 50 Deductions 10.4 39.6 _q r_, 16' 4" × 1' 10" 29.9 _r s_, 9' 2" × 1' 10" 16.8 _m n_ (less openings), 7' 9" × 2' 6" 19.4 _o p_, 20' × 1' 10" 36.7 ------ Total area of excavation for footings 643.3 Contents, 643.3 sq. ft. × 10 in. (.833 ft.) depth 535.9

MISCELLANEOUS EXCAVATIONS[5] CUBIC _Quantities_ FEET Front porch, 69' 9" × 2' 3" × 3' 470.8 Back porch, 24' × 2' 4" × 3' 168.0 Piers for steps, 1' 8" × 2' × 3' × 2 20.0 Piers for side steps and back porch, 2' × 2' × 3' × 4 48.0 Cellar area, 5' 9" × 6' 4" × 6' 6" 236.7 Deduct 2' × 3' × 6' 6" 39.0 ----- 197.7

Dry cesspool, 6 ft. diameter × 6 ft. depth 169.6 Cesspool, 6 ft. diameter × 8 ft. depth 226.2 Trench for pipe to cesspool, 25' × 7' 6" × 2' 375.0 Trench for drain pipes (roof drainage), 228' × 3' × 1' 684.0 Trench for drain pipes from junction to dry cesspool, 20' × 3' × 18" 90.0 -------- Total 2,449.3 -------- Grand total of excavation 14,296.2

[4] Lengths scaled along center line of walls.

[5] Lengths scaled along center line of walls.

FILLING CUBIC _Quantities_ FEET Around foundation walls, 181' 2" × 6" × 6' 6" 588.8 Around foundation of porches, etc., 142' 3" × 6" × 3' 213.4 ----- Total filling 802.2

_Cost_

The cost of excavation in sandy soil, taken from _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, is 53 cents per cubic yard. The cost of filling, including tamping, may be taken as about one-third that of excavation, or, say, 18 cents per cubic yard.

_Summary_ Excavation, 14,296.2 cu. ft. = 529.5 cu. yd., at 53 cents per cubic yard $280.64 Filling, 802.2 cu. ft. = 29.7 cu. yd., at 18 cents per cubic yard 5.35 ------- Total cost of excavation and filling $285.99

STONEWORK

=3.= The foundation walls are built of rubble masonry to the sill at the grade line, and from this sill to the water-table they are built of ashlar with rubble backing, except those portions behind porches and steps, which are wholly rubble. The estimate for stonework also includes the concrete for footings and cellar floor; the number of cubic feet of concrete required for the footings will be found by referring to the item Excavation for Wall Footings.

RUBBLE MASONRY CUBIC _Quantities_[6] FEET Cellar walls, 181' 2" × 1' 6" × 6' 6" 1,766.4 Add for extra thickness over 1' 6": 5" × 6' 3" × 6' 6" 16.9 1' 2" × 10' 8" × 6' 6" 80.9 ----- 97.8

[7]Foundation walls for front porch: 74' 6" × 1' 8" × 1' 9" 217.3 74' 6" × 1' 2" × 9" 65.2 ------ 282.5

Foundation for steps: 2 piers, 1' 6" × 1' 8" × 2' 6" 12.5 2 piers, 2' x 1' 6" × 2' 6" 15.0 ----- 27.5